@@oidicle Hi, if you start from a seed, goodness....it will take 3, 4, 5 years before you see any fruits !!! instead of rooting hormones, you can use aloevera gel, or cinnamon or honey or even onion juice, juice from willow tree bark. best time to propagate the cuttings is in March, April, May. try aloevera gel with very good result with rooting.
@@kanthvickram4490 Hi Kanth. I might just not be cut out for this 'rooting cutting' thing. I still have rotten sticks despite Aloe or Honey treatments. I've had more success by Air Layering method...
If you guys wonder about rooting hormone dip the green cutting into honey and add cinamon powder OR just add cinamon powder ... stick it into PRE-WATERED soil (let it drain). DON'T ADD WATER AFTER you plant a cutting it just washes away the powder. ;) Happy Cloning
@@Spirits_And_Swords depends what it is you are planting if u do plant in fall make sure after planting to make a mound of dirt around the cutting so it does not freeze to death .. (i planted roses and grapes in fall and had succes)
I don't think you realize what a great accomplishment you have made in this video! I have tried many, many times to root hardwood cuttings of cherry, apple, plum and pear, all with 100% failure! The main difference I see in your method is taking about 4 inches of bark off the bottom part of the cutting. All other methods (that have failed for me) tell you to simply cut a diagonal cut below a bud and add rooting hormone. PLEASE continue this experiment this summer with apple, plum and pear scions and see if they will also root. It would be awesome if you stumbled across a method that works for apple, plum and pear as well as cherry. Your tree appears to be an "Evans Cherry".
To fellow viewers: this is a top notch instruction She emphasizes that any rooting hormone is as good as the hard to find hormone She shows successful results right away in the video Unique to this video she shows exposing the cambium layer , like six inches all around the stem and applying rooting hormone over the whole of the exposed cambium Her cutting is relative long compared to most UA-cam instructors and she leaves on quite a bit of terminal leaves The emphasis on shading the newly planted cutting is good Edited to correct typing errors
Wow! Thank you. That may just be the nicest comment I’ve received on this. I’m not a professional grower, just showing what works for me. I’ve been happy with my results. I’m glad you felt the video was helpful. You obviously paid attention to what I was saying and doing.
I've been meaning to watch this video for a while, I'm glad I finally got around to it. I never would have thought that you could root cuttings directly into the ground like that. I would use a pot, normally. I've never attempted air-layering. When I was in college I took a class on plant propagation and the professor said that you could just put a willow stem in water and the hormone would seep into the water to use for rooting cuttings. I would probably crush the stem to get out as much as possible. The willow itself doesn't need anything to root, of course. Thanks for the demo--good detailed instructions! Be blessed, PPG
Thank you. I find it easier to keep the ground damp than a little pot of soil. I have heard lots of positive comments about using willow stems/water, and many other things including honey. I’ve never tried air layering, I wonder how it would work with our cold winters here? Thanks for your positive comment. It means a lot coming from you.
I tried scraping just a small amount of bark to the first node and using pots and it didn't work. The cuttings made leaves and lived for a while, but didn't root and died eventually. My biggest success was that cherry cuttings in a jar of water dropped leaves in the autumn and grew new ones out of buds in the spring, but they didn't root either. So cherries are pretty difficult to root and congratulations. I'll keep trying and damage the bark more.
Thank you so much for taking the time to do your videos. It instills faith that you have had success yourself doing what you are demonstrating. I'm excited and can't WAIT to see some progress happening with my cuttings! Sending you a big squishy hug full of gratitude. :-)
The story on Willow bark makes sense as previous owners of my property simply stuck Willow cuttings into the ground around the border of the field (without any rooting powder) and every one grew (about 40 of them). There's something about the chemistry within the Willow that makes it root extremely well. Thanks for this. Very helpful !
Ok ok so I’m going to cherry picking and bring some small branches (without knowing them😏) going to try…let’s see how it’s working… thank you for the video
Never made rooting compound out of willow before but, I've made duck blinds using willow branches stuck in the ground and they will take off and grow almost every time.
I’ve heard that willow branches root quite easily. People will use the bare branches decoratively in pots and find they’ve rooted when taking apart the arrangements.
Thank you ma'am for posting this. I have an Early Richmond cherry tree that is a descendant from one my Grandpa gave me in 1975 before he died. I've been wondering how to do this and Now I can keep those trees going for generations. Thanks again!
@@PrairiePlantgirl I just found some rooting power I bought in May of 2016. Do you think it is still good? It has been sealed up and I have almost a full jar.
I can’t really say for sure. It likely has a date on it somewhere. Rooting hormone is relatively inexpensive and your cuttings sound special. I would probably purchase fresh stuff if it was me.
Great explanation Thank you. Went to garden centre late spring and the prices for the good shrubs late season were extremely high. I knew all they did was re clip them year after year and re sale then each year but very expensive when they know people desparate etc.
I'm not hundred 100% sure but I've been looking into tissue culture and usually what they try to do first is to get the extracted plant tissue to form 'undifferentiated' cells / calluses then they use the calluses to then grow roots. So my guess is when you scrape the outer layer you naturally get the plant to try and heal up and form calluses, which it can start turning into roots.
That sounds accurate. It is the way I’ve learned works best over the years. Unfortunately these cuttings were missed in the watering schedule over a brutal heat wave while I was out of town and did not root. Thanks for the great comment.
@@PrairiePlantgirl I tried some cutting about 2 - 3 months back. I don't know if I took branches that were too young but they all died even when i put them in a box to keep humidity up. then I tried air-layering but the heat wave of multiple days over 40 degree celsius (104 Fahrenheit) has scorched all the leaves. Darn you crazy Australian heat wave!!! Maybe I'll try cuttings again but this time apply bottom heat...
I hope you find the solution to getting your cuttings. The type of tree, time of year, hardwood vs softwood, it all plays a part in determining the outcome. I’m toying with taking some late winter hardwood cuttings this year but right now we aren’t getting any warmer than -20 C with high winds so I’m not up to playing with the trees. We will see what happens. Good luck to you.
Most of the cuttings that I tried were shorter than the one you demonstrated. I had a low success rate, but it was a hot dry spring. I noticed that the fatter ones did better. Anyways I got at least one free tree and it was partially thanks to this video. Will try again next spring. Thanks!
I really think that big cutting I took a few years ago just had the perfect conditions including a fairly mild first winter. I’m quite impressed with it myself. My original cherry has started to split so I’m hoping to get several good cuttings this year to make up for the loss of it.
Prairie Plantgirl considering how big your cutting was that was a miracle. Hopefully all your cuttings take. 🙏. My peach tree is getting to big so ill be air layering intead of pruning. I think I'm better at that then cutting or the conditions here are better for airlayer vs cuttings.
Hi! I was researching for a new video series I'm going to do, and this video popped up in search! I had allready seen it a year ago, but had to watch it again just for the love. Great info, and I love how many views you are getting now! We need to do a video project together one day, or mabye a live stream? Keep up the good work, and I'll head on over to the update video on this that you did a few days back. Not seen that one yet. Love from your friend in Norway. 💚
Unfortunately these ones did not survive as I forgot to have my helper water them when I went away. I have started many cuttings this way in the past so it does work. You can’t leave them to dry out in 40+C (105 F) temperatures. I will try some again next year. Thanks for your comment.
I have followed your video, I will check them every 2 days. I am going away next for 2 weeks and if my helper forgets I will be taking a layer of bark of her. Thanks.
I was a bit surprised to see the length of the first two cuttings you put to ground, and expect you will have better results with the shorter cutting. I have done this successfully with black currant (buried a 6-8" piece in fall with only top bud showing & a Myko Pak laid alongside the stem; no rooting hormone for black currant) & with upper part of apple root stock. For the stock, I scraped two lines on opposite sides, applied rooting compound (also powder, as you have done) and put 'em into a five gallon bucket of dirt. Kept in morning light the rest of the season. 4 of 6 pieces took and will be used for grafting this season. As to air-layering, I am grafting apples to several trees and air-layering later in summer or the next season, depending on growth. (Much slower on a semi-dwarf apple like GoldRush or Bardsey; can air-layer from a vigorous tree like Rambour Franc or Connell Red the same season.) Have you tried this with dormant wood in fall? I lost a sour cherry - North Star - last season to canker and wish now I'd at least tried to root cuttings. Sour cherry (Prunus cerasus) is a natural semi-dwarf and more easily managed tree than nearly all sweet cherry trees, which get enormous on their own roots.
I have had success with all lengths of cuttings. Even some from older wood. This is a sour cherry that I’m working with in this video. I grew this from a cutting I took from a tree that was dying. I have another one from that original tree in another area. I will grow several, pick the strongest,nicest looking one of the survivors and toss or give way the rest. The cuttings from this video did not take. We had a heat wave while I was on holiday last summer. These were not watered by my garden helper. I took a few more in late winter/early spring and so far they are looking very nice. I have also gotten several cuttings to root from Autumn cuttings (I cant remember if any were cherry). I’ve never tried air layering. Thanks for your comment.
I too was surprised of the length of her cutting but it is in line with an internet available paper from the University of California @,Davis which recommends 12 to 18 inch cuttings cut 5 buds away from the trunk . This is the recommendation for hard to root cutting . The example refer to in this paper was peach tree
The only thing I do different is I don't use roids, for which I make up by plant 4 not 1, and I have a long shallow dedicated pot with 90% sand and it's in half shade. By watching educational videos about planting a lot of people (professor's) say to remove the flower because you will not get fruit anyways and you want the plant to concentrate on rooting. I would gently take off the pettles from flower to be honest. I am happy to learn you can do this from trimmings, I was actually going to do the whole seed process. Thank you
the rooting gel lasts way past the expire or best before date, as long as the storage of the bottle isnt exposed to huge temp and humidity changes.Im using clonex that expired last year and im getting clones in 7 days.
That’s awesome. I haven’t used the gel in years. I just haven’t come across it when shopping. I’m sure the powders work past expiration to a point as well, but since I’ve never tested that, it is worth thinking about. Thanks for your comment.
I have a couple of questions, 1. Is this a method for all fruit trees, or is this just for cherries. 2. If you put the cuttings in a pot till next spring. Can you take cuttings during early summer?
Thank you for the update. I'm selling my place, and have a dozen fruit trees, and it's now winter and I want to take some cutting stock. Lots of "how-to" but not enough follow-up links.
I got a baby stella prunim avium cherry tree 170cm tall that im gonna plant 2 meters away from the bush, in between is a path way. Will the cherry tree block that path? The idea is to use the cherry tree to shade that path, but still be able to walk on the path. Any advice? Is it possible what im doing
@@PrairiePlantgirl My Barbados Cherry tree isn't very big presently and I am waiting on a few more branches. I tried one from a branch before watching your video and got no results, so I'll wait until later in the spring of 2021 before I harvest another section. Thank you
Best before dates are often just to get you to buy new. You did buy new and if you still have the old hormone, use it for some too so you can see if it is still viable so you can use up the rest of the bottle. Also, one may work better than the other so using both will increase your odds of success and hopefully, you will have extra to give away to friends.
I usually don’t worry too much about BBDs either but since I’m not sure how it affects these and it is several years, I think it is worth a new bottle.
I'm used to taking hardwood cuttings by removing a slip of bark from one side of the stem base, very surprised to see it completely removed from such a large area. I'm wondering if this might be the way to go with taking Hawthorn cuttings, as I have had no luck whatsoever with those as yet. Sloes are a bit hit and miss; some years I'll get a few, and others are complete failure, so I will try that with those too. Haven't taken Cherry tree cuttings before (and have a couple of very good ones that I would love to propagate). So I take it the correct time of year would be just as the flowers are finishing and the leaves fully expanded?
I’ve taken cuttings from cherry anytime in the spring or fall and found some success. Spring is better. I prefer to wait until after the flowers, just to have the flowers. I’ve always removed a great deal of the outer layer of bark on anything I start. That was how I learned to do it. I’ve seen people slice up the middle of the stem and smash the end as well. I find peeling the bark works best for me.
@@bobbrawley2612 Absolutely. I was thinking the same. Still, I have a few cherry trees in the garden and I think it worth taking the risk now that a couple of crossing branches need removing.
The other method of rooting hardwood cuttings by removing the leaes and burying the cuttings n rooting medium and keep on bottom heat 85° F. For a month. I have never had success doing that. In the enclosed video @ 4 : 15 time mark you can see what I'm talking about. I started a mulch in March fro some type of ornamental conifer branch tips . Recently in digging to the bottom of the pile there was matting white roots. The roots came off the conifer tips ( cluster of needles on say 6 top inches of a branch) pulverized leaves was the medium primary and relative low moisture throughout the pile . Good earthworm count . Where the roots grew in profusion in a thick mat at the bottom of the bike on the native soil the mat was fairly dry. No noticable dampness. I am going to try the hardwood cutting from peach and plum trees and bury them ooh underneath a mulch pile and see if I can replicate the success of the accidental conifer. The accidental rooting is contrary to the usual advise using hardwood section somewhere in the middle of a branch . Not the first 5 nodes and not the soft green terminal ends ua-cam.com/video/Gi9cafJQjwQ/v-deo.html
@@bobbrawley2612 Interesting that you managed to start some conifer cuttings by accident in a mulch made of the same plants. It's worth bearing in mind when I take some from my ornamental conifers later this year. By accident, two years ago, I obtained a 3ft Laurel 'cutting' after I threw some pruned branches onto a compost heap and piled a load of dead fern fronds on top. I hadn't expected anything to happen, that hadn't been the plan. However, many months later, I noticed one Laurel branch has remained very green, healthy and leafy. I pulled it out of the pile and there were long roots bursting out of the end. Unlike smaller Laurel cuttings taken in the usual way, once planted it grew quite quickly and has made a nice little 5ft tree. About 2 weeks ago, I took some shorter cherry cuttings by 'Prairie Girl's' method and planted them together in one pot. They all seem to be okay so far, no signs of suffering despite a recent blast of unusually hot, dry weather (I keep mine in a shady area kept humid by run-off from a field). I think it quite likely they will set roots fairly soon. I took apple tree cuttings some months ago and these have already set down roots. That's the first time I have raised new apples from anything other than pips.
another great vid with clones i find not checking is the key i never thought of sticking the tree in ground brilliant i used a 5 gallon pale and big sponge in bottom
A sponge in the bottom of the pail is a good idea. Would help keep things moist. I’m always just playing around when I do this so I’m not very scientific about it.
Hello I’m so glad that I stumbled upon your channel! I just read your about me, and we have the exact growing zone and weather conditions. -37 Celsius in winter to +37 Celsius in summer, I’m limited on what fruit trees I can successfully plant
Thanks for this video. I've tried in vain several time to root some of my favorite fruit trees without success. But I will certainly try your method on my romance cherries and haskaps.it would be great to have a few more of each
Prairie Plantgirl ...and taking the cuttings at the proper time in the growth cycle. I would think just as the parent tree is breaking dormancy would be ideal. Here, your parent is obviously farther along that cycle.
I'm trying this inside since its winter , with a honey crisp apple tree cutting. I am using a Tim Horton's clear plastic drink cup with a lid with a straw hole in it and seed starter and the rooting powder. 10 days so far.. I have these inside on my mantel to keep an eye on them. I hope to see root growth eventually through the plastic. My cuttings were dormant ones.
Willow has hormones, you can even use organic aspirin if willow isn't available. Another great option is to soak beans till the water is murky and then strain and use that water for cuttings. You can also use grains but you should rinse the grains first then soak. Some grains have natural growth inhibitors on the shell. Also always use organic otherwise there may be fungicides and/or pesticides on the grains/beans.
@@PrairiePlantgirl 3.bp.blogspot.com/-KbgHimcUQ-g/TpCL4-kNUKI/AAAAAAAAAvQ/t31CPN6OJIY/s1600/Plant_Hormone_Summary.jpg that link is a list of plant growth hormones and what they induce. Its a good guideline. from there you can easily find out what hormones are in what plants. Cytokinin is most readily found in corn, Id use organic blue corn, or in coconut. Hope this all helps you on your own research!
I've had willow in Water for a week or 2 and they have loads of roots. Apparently you can just put cuttings straight into the soil too. Willow is very easy to grow
Everytime I've ever tried to clone cherry trees, particularly large leaf varieties like black tartarian, the leaves end up falling off the cuttings before any roots develop. This happens literally every time, and I'm not sure what I'm doing wrong. Any other cuttings seem to do just fine, it just seems to happen with the tartarians and that's the one I really want to clone. Any help would be appreciated!!
I’m not familiar with the tartarian. Have you tried cutting the large leaves in half so they transpire less and covering with a vented plastic bag or cloche to retain humidity? Those would be what I would try in that circumstance. Otherwise setting up a misting system for a few minutes every hour, but that’s too fussy for me.
@@PrairiePlantgirl Hi, thanks for the reply. I do cut most of the leaf material off and keep the humidity well over 80%, it seems like all the other plants I clone do just fine, it's just the taratarian cherry that ends up dropping leaves and dying off before it develops any roots. It's frustrating, but I'm doing everything one is supposed to do. It's odd that only the taratrian seems to be a problem, I'm hoping someone else has had a similar problem and figured it out.
i have used the dark from pussywillow tree , aspirin comes from bark of a willow tree. and cinnamon from another tree. i heard that you can mix cinnamon and aspirin and use it for rooting.
There seems to be all sorts of natural methods. I experimented with cinnamon vs rooting powder with coleus this winter. Cuttings from both rooted but the success rate with the hormone was slightly better. It was a small sample so not enough difference to really say if one product is better than the other.
Mmm, sour cherries are best for zzzzz & great for baking. Then pruning close to the trunk is also where the collar is, which is where the tree heals the wound over easiest.
I always had best success taking cuttings in spring. We have a very cold winter here so cuttings would have to be rooted indoors here over winter. That is my experience. I am in Saskatchewan, Canada.
Hi question i got one from lowell and its just a branch with roots i plated in a pot do i have to cut it a bit to make it grow or just leave it like that and just water and fertilizer it
@@PrairiePlantgirl should also tell you that your video was so helpful! I really had no idea how to begin. Honey, and a clipping is all I had... Have subscribed and look forward to learning more from your work :)
@@PrairiePlantgirl I mentioned on another forum that the antibacterial agent in rooting hormone powder is probably the reason for its success. The hormone adds only a slight stimuli that propels the successful root growth beyond what honey, cinnamon, willow water can offer. I'm assuming honey ,willow water and cinnamon are antibacterial agents only. . One channel promotes aspirin dissolved in water as a rooting stimulant it a hydroponics bubbler tank. Again no hormone but antibacterial only used my only success has been with nothing . Just water and damp to saturated soil to root a two inch diameter pear branch
@@bobbrawley2612Have had great results from a cinnamon dip! I believe cinnamon, just like chilli pepper powder is mainly antifungal and anti insects.. Modern Aspirin is a chemical derivative, and does not contain the rooting hormone found in willow bark.. Just plain old willowbark tea is what im testing now.. but this is what ive learned!
I had the best veggie garden I've ever had the year I made willow tea and watered in my seedling as soon as I planted them. I took some willow whips....the yellow coloured new growth from willow trees and cut them up a couple inches long and dropped them in a bucket of water and let them soak for a couple of day. Be careful to get all the willow pieces out of the water before pouring the water into your garden because every little piece of willow will grow just laying on the ground. After Twp weeks I started watering with grass clipping tea every few weeks. Just a little goes a long way so you can dilute the grass tea quite a bit and just water around the base of each plant. I will do this again because it was amazing and I love not using chemical fertilizers ( the store bought stuff)
Sue Ann Champion that’s awesome to hear. It’s great when we can find natural ways to help our gardens along. 🤔 I wonder if my neighbour would share some willow cuttings.
@@sueannchampion3225 Thats great. I set a rock on a board on a pail, then I put the willow on and crush with another rock, the bits fall in the pail I too soak a couple of days but not too long it will stink.
I have a question, if the cutting taken from a mature tree that already flowered, will the cutting flower next season or it has to take time like the ones grown from seeds
Just wondering, most root stock is grafted on and it imparts characteristics to the top growth. So if you take a cutting wouldn't it be a different tree in the end?
It really depends if it was a grafted tree. This was not. Grafting is not always done. At least not where I am. Grafting is to control some characteristics of the plant (ie: size, hardiness).
I have a semi-dwarf bing in my backyard and a ranier in my front yard. Ranier lost it's pollinator, so I"ve been looking for one in vain. This gives me hope I can grow my own. The problem is, I don't have room for a full sized tree. I'm going to presume a semi-dwarf doesn't create another semi-dwarf? Is it very complicated to restrict the size of a tree grown from cuttings? TIA
Hey,thanks for your video on cutting. I’m have not tried that. But I will. Do you think by wrapping a tissue paper around that rooting powdered portion and wet it after will speed up the process?
I am planning on pruning my cherry this winter. I was wondering if I could make a cutting out of the pruned stem if it is dormant and without leaves. Thank you.
I’ve done both. I found spring when the plant is pushing new growth better here. It’s hard to keep a young cutting going over the winter here and I don’t bring them indoors.
Hello, you have a very nice channel here that UA-cam has suggested to me by accident! I congratulate you and have subscribed to your channel immediately! Best regards from Austria!
I believe the rooting hormone was a promix brand. When to do it depends on your climate. I find in spring when the tree is pushing new growth works best. Thanks for the question.
I do here in zone three. You might have better success babying them indoors over winter but I always have had some root here and I’m not interested in babying them through indoors. I think you’d need extra humidity in a heated winter home.
thank you. I have a handful of apple tree product in my hand sterilizing the cutting tool. thank you for your prompt very prompt reply. ten thumbs up, NO, 20 thumbs up (likes). @@PrairiePlantgirl
Yes, pussy willow cutting in with the fruit tree cuttings. Pothos plant works well also! Some people use honey and cinnamon due to cinnamon being the cambium layer under the bark of the cinnamon tree.
Hi, i know this video was posted 4 years ago !!! i wonder if you could help me regarding cherry tree propagation !!! last November i did air-layering from a matured cherry tree..... this first week of April i cut the branch from the mother tree and found NO ROOTS, why there is no roots after 4 months? so, i planted the cuttings in a pot after applying rooting hormone, today. hope i might see the growth of the plant and roots too !!! why it did not root during air-layering, can you explain please? thank you.
I have zero experience with air layering. The cherries that grow in my area are all crossed with wild cherry bushes in some way to get the cold hardiness required. I suspect that is why I have success with propagating them and others don’t. Also it isn’t fail proof, only some will work out. I start several to get one or two.
wow i never seen someone strip the stem like that soo far, i just take 1/4 inch to 1/2 inch thick by pencil length cuttings and shave 1 inch of bark off 3 sides. and it works. also you only need 2 leafs cut in half left. or even none at all.
I agree I got carried away stripping the stems. Sometimes I just give them a little snip. I always leave a few leaves, but I like to start them in a shadier spot. If you started them in more sun you’d probably want less leaves. This is just how I do it. Everyone seems to have a method that works best for them
For me, it's the 2nd time i have seen that big cutting. 1st time was little bigger of rose cutting 3-4 months back, and it worked, sprouted after about a month or few more days than a month... but it almost died few days back because of overwatering with sewerage water kind of... but roots might be still there, i can check in couple of days if roots would be there i can sure post a video.
There is a chance it will still root without. Several people have commented about the many ways to use willow to stimulate growth. I’ve also heard aspirin has a similar property to willow and can be crushed into water. I’ve never used anything but the hormone. I would take as many cuttings as I can if it’s a tree you really want, that will up your chances of getting one to work. Good luck.
To see an update three years later check out this video ua-cam.com/video/GWI9je_FstE/v-deo.html
I don't have access to a rooting hormone, I live in Mozambique. Do you know if they'll grow without the hormone?
@@oidicle You can try cinnamon or honey instead. It just takes longer without any rooting hormone.
@@SKITTZ0 Okay. Thanks will try that just for fun, because I ended up growing from seed. I have about 23 3 month-old seedlings grwowing strong.
@@oidicle Hi, if you start from a seed, goodness....it will take 3, 4, 5 years before you see any fruits !!! instead of rooting hormones, you can use aloevera gel, or cinnamon or honey or even onion juice, juice from willow tree bark. best time to propagate the cuttings is in March, April, May. try aloevera gel with very good result with rooting.
@@kanthvickram4490 Hi Kanth. I might just not be cut out for this 'rooting cutting' thing. I still have rotten sticks despite Aloe or Honey treatments. I've had more success by Air Layering method...
If you guys wonder about rooting hormone dip the green cutting into honey and add cinamon powder OR just add cinamon powder ... stick it into PRE-WATERED soil (let it drain). DON'T ADD WATER AFTER you plant a cutting it just washes away the powder. ;) Happy Cloning
Awesome!!! Thank you for this!
Is that as well as rooting hormone, or if u don't use rooting hormone plz
Can I do this in the Fall and leave it outside in ground through the Winter and into Spring?
I can only get some cuttings from someone in this fall.
@@Spirits_And_Swords depends what it is you are planting if u do plant in fall make sure after planting to make a mound of dirt around the cutting so it does not freeze to death .. (i planted roses and grapes in fall and had succes)
It's more then just that.fungis can happen.the best way it hormone dip it in the powder. It works great for all my plants ect.
Oh god yes! Finally a channel that is not obnoxious and pretend high energy trash. I very much enjoy your presentation!
Your video helped me out a bunch, im living on a flat 6 acre plot with nothing but grass, you have enabled me to start propegating some beauties!
I don't think you realize what a great accomplishment you have made in this video! I have tried many, many times to root hardwood cuttings of cherry, apple, plum and pear, all with 100% failure! The main difference I see in your method is taking about 4 inches of bark off the bottom part of the cutting. All other methods (that have failed for me)
tell you to simply cut a diagonal cut below a bud and add rooting hormone. PLEASE continue this experiment this summer with apple, plum and pear scions and see if they will also root. It would be awesome if you stumbled across a method that works for apple, plum and pear as well as cherry. Your tree appears to be an "Evans Cherry".
I agree
To fellow viewers: this is a top notch instruction
She emphasizes that any rooting hormone is as good as the hard to find hormone
She shows successful results right away in the video
Unique to this video she shows exposing the cambium layer , like six inches all around the stem and applying rooting hormone over the whole of the exposed cambium
Her cutting is relative long compared to most UA-cam instructors and she leaves on quite a bit of terminal leaves
The emphasis on shading the newly planted cutting is good
Edited to correct typing errors
Wow! Thank you. That may just be the nicest comment I’ve received on this. I’m not a professional grower, just showing what works for me. I’ve been happy with my results. I’m glad you felt the video was helpful. You obviously paid attention to what I was saying and doing.
I've been meaning to watch this video for a while, I'm glad I finally got around to it. I never would have thought that you could root cuttings directly into the ground like that. I would use a pot, normally. I've never attempted air-layering. When I was in college I took a class on plant propagation and the professor said that you could just put a willow stem in water and the hormone would seep into the water to use for rooting cuttings. I would probably crush the stem to get out as much as possible. The willow itself doesn't need anything to root, of course.
Thanks for the demo--good detailed instructions!
Be blessed, PPG
Thank you. I find it easier to keep the ground damp than a little pot of soil. I have heard lots of positive comments about using willow stems/water, and many other things including honey. I’ve never tried air layering, I wonder how it would work with our cold winters here? Thanks for your positive comment. It means a lot coming from you.
I tried scraping just a small amount of bark to the first node and using pots and it didn't work. The cuttings made leaves and lived for a while, but didn't root and died eventually. My biggest success was that cherry cuttings in a jar of water dropped leaves in the autumn and grew new ones out of buds in the spring, but they didn't root either. So cherries are pretty difficult to root and congratulations. I'll keep trying and damage the bark more.
Thank you so much for taking the time to do your videos. It instills faith that you have had success yourself doing what you are demonstrating. I'm excited and can't WAIT to see some progress happening with my cuttings! Sending you a big squishy hug full of gratitude. :-)
I hope you have success. I find this works for me.
It's my favorite fruit
Nice work. I stopped doing cherry trees. I have a couple and they're just too big. Now I do cherry bushes. Much more manageable.
How do you do bushes? Just keep pruning the tree down?
@@dewanelomas1302Barieties like Romeo snd Juliet
No humidity dome? I would think the leaves would wilt and fall off.
The story on Willow bark makes sense as previous owners of my property simply stuck Willow cuttings into the ground around the border of the field (without any rooting powder) and every one grew (about 40 of them). There's something about the chemistry within the Willow that makes it root extremely well. Thanks for this. Very helpful !
Those are some shady tips mamm❤ everything sounds very calm in your videos…. Ty
Ok ok so I’m going to cherry picking and bring some small branches (without knowing them😏) going to try…let’s see how it’s working… thank you for the video
Thanks, exactly the information I was looking for. Very well presented.
Thank you. I’m so glad you found this helpful. Good luck with your cuttings.
I just planted a little cutting from a cherry tree, I followed your directions, I’ll wait and see what happen. Thank you
did it work
Never made rooting compound out of willow before but, I've made duck blinds using willow branches stuck in the ground and they will take off and grow almost every time.
I’ve heard that willow branches root quite easily. People will use the bare branches decoratively in pots and find they’ve rooted when taking apart the arrangements.
Thank you ma'am for posting this. I have an Early Richmond cherry tree that is a descendant from one my Grandpa gave me in 1975 before he died. I've been wondering how to do this and Now I can keep those trees going for generations. Thanks again!
What a wonderful project.
@@PrairiePlantgirl I just found some rooting power I bought in May of 2016. Do you think it is still good? It has been sealed up and I have almost a full jar.
I can’t really say for sure. It likely has a date on it somewhere. Rooting hormone is relatively inexpensive and your cuttings sound special. I would probably purchase fresh stuff if it was me.
@@PrairiePlantgirl Thank you ma'am!
Great explanation
Thank you. Went to garden centre late spring and the prices for the good shrubs late season were extremely high. I knew all they did was re clip them year after year and re sale then each year but very expensive when they know people desparate etc.
I’m happy that I stumbled across this video
Great work and channel, very interested how much knowledge you have here. Thanks for sharing
Thanks for stopping by. I’ve been experimenting for years with starting trees from cuttings. This by far has been the most successful method.
Haha, Shannon! I watch you channel too!
I'm not hundred 100% sure but I've been looking into tissue culture and usually what they try to do first is to get the extracted plant tissue to form 'undifferentiated' cells / calluses then they use the calluses to then grow roots.
So my guess is when you scrape the outer layer you naturally get the plant to try and heal up and form calluses, which it can start turning into roots.
That sounds accurate. It is the way I’ve learned works best over the years. Unfortunately these cuttings were missed in the watering schedule over a brutal heat wave while I was out of town and did not root. Thanks for the great comment.
@@PrairiePlantgirl I tried some cutting about 2 - 3 months back. I don't know if I took branches that were too young but they all died even when i put them in a box to keep humidity up.
then I tried air-layering but the heat wave of multiple days over 40 degree celsius (104 Fahrenheit) has scorched all the leaves. Darn you crazy Australian heat wave!!!
Maybe I'll try cuttings again but this time apply bottom heat...
I hope you find the solution to getting your cuttings. The type of tree, time of year, hardwood vs softwood, it all plays a part in determining the outcome. I’m toying with taking some late winter hardwood cuttings this year but right now we aren’t getting any warmer than -20 C with high winds so I’m not up to playing with the trees. We will see what happens. Good luck to you.
@@fortuneflux yea but what was the plant you attempted the cutting and airlayering. If a fig , you failed . If an apple you didn't fail . It did
@@bobbrawley2612 I was trying to air layer a stella cherry tree
Very informative thank you!! I will try this on my fig cuttings. Best information, clear and to the point.
Thanks for this video. I'm going to try it this spring with my romance cherries. Also zone 3.
Most of the cuttings that I tried were shorter than the one you demonstrated. I had a low success rate, but it was a hot dry spring. I noticed that the fatter ones did better. Anyways I got at least one free tree and it was partially thanks to this video. Will try again next spring. Thanks!
Willow tree are hard to find in my area, so I stick with the rooting hormones, I did this methods with plum tree cuttings
wow very good video my friend.
I do both ... The harder plants respond very well to air layering... If given enough time... Thanks...
Thats great! Thank you for sharing. I hope they all take. 🤗 thats amazing that your big cherry took and irs grown soo much ☺
I really think that big cutting I took a few years ago just had the perfect conditions including a fairly mild first winter. I’m quite impressed with it myself. My original cherry has started to split so I’m hoping to get several good cuttings this year to make up for the loss of it.
Prairie Plantgirl considering how big your cutting was that was a miracle. Hopefully all your cuttings take. 🙏. My peach tree is getting to big so ill be air layering intead of pruning. I think I'm better at that then cutting or the conditions here are better for airlayer vs cuttings.
The willow bark water or willow tea works! I tried it with rose cuttings before.
Hi! I was researching for a new video series I'm going to do, and this video popped up in search! I had allready seen it a year ago, but had to watch it again just for the love. Great info, and I love how many views you are getting now! We need to do a video project together one day, or mabye a live stream? Keep up the good work, and I'll head on over to the update video on this that you did a few days back. Not seen that one yet. Love from your friend in Norway. 💚
Thank you. It means a lot that you took the time to research and still found it informative. It’s great to hear from you.
Excellent video, keep us posted on how they are going. I will give this a try tomorrow. Best part,,, no crap music.
Unfortunately these ones did not survive as I forgot to have my helper water them when I went away. I have started many cuttings this way in the past so it does work. You can’t leave them to dry out in 40+C (105 F) temperatures. I will try some again next year. Thanks for your comment.
I have followed your video, I will check them every 2 days. I am going away next for 2 weeks and if my helper forgets I will be taking a layer of bark of her. Thanks.
Good luck with the cuttings. Let me know how they turn out. What were they from?
Thank you. I'm going to try this with a Cherry tree that I like.
I was a bit surprised to see the length of the first two cuttings you put to ground, and expect you will have better results with the shorter cutting. I have done this successfully with black currant (buried a 6-8" piece in fall with only top bud showing & a Myko Pak laid alongside the stem; no rooting hormone for black currant) & with upper part of apple root stock. For the stock, I scraped two lines on opposite sides, applied rooting compound (also powder, as you have done) and put 'em into a five gallon bucket of dirt. Kept in morning light the rest of the season. 4 of 6 pieces took and will be used for grafting this season.
As to air-layering, I am grafting apples to several trees and air-layering later in summer or the next season, depending on growth. (Much slower on a semi-dwarf apple like GoldRush or Bardsey; can air-layer from a vigorous tree like Rambour Franc or Connell Red the same season.)
Have you tried this with dormant wood in fall? I lost a sour cherry - North Star - last season to canker and wish now I'd at least tried to root cuttings. Sour cherry (Prunus cerasus) is a natural semi-dwarf and more easily managed tree than nearly all sweet cherry trees, which get enormous on their own roots.
I have had success with all lengths of cuttings. Even some from older wood. This is a sour cherry that I’m working with in this video. I grew this from a cutting I took from a tree that was dying. I have another one from that original tree in another area. I will grow several, pick the strongest,nicest looking one of the survivors and toss or give way the rest. The cuttings from this video did not take. We had a heat wave while I was on holiday last summer. These were not watered by my garden helper. I took a few more in late winter/early spring and so far they are looking very nice. I have also gotten several cuttings to root from Autumn cuttings (I cant remember if any were cherry). I’ve never tried air layering.
Thanks for your comment.
I too was surprised of the length of her cutting but it is in line with an internet available paper from the University of California @,Davis which recommends 12 to 18 inch cuttings cut 5 buds away from the trunk . This is the recommendation for hard to root cutting . The example refer to in this paper was peach tree
The only thing I do different is I don't use roids, for which I make up by plant 4 not 1, and I have a long shallow dedicated pot with 90% sand and it's in half shade. By watching educational videos about planting a lot of people (professor's) say to remove the flower because you will not get fruit anyways and you want the plant to concentrate on rooting. I would gently take off the pettles from flower to be honest. I am happy to learn you can do this from trimmings, I was actually going to do the whole seed process. Thank you
❤Great video very nice to follow... Tx Plantgirl you are awsome❤
the rooting gel lasts way past the expire or best before date, as long as the storage of the bottle isnt exposed to huge temp and humidity changes.Im using clonex that expired last year and im getting clones in 7 days.
That’s awesome. I haven’t used the gel in years. I just haven’t come across it when shopping. I’m sure the powders work past expiration to a point as well, but since I’ve never tested that, it is worth thinking about. Thanks for your comment.
wow great video, learned something guess you can learn an old dog new tricks.
Thank you. I’m glad you found it informative.
To see an update on these cuttings check out this video ua-cam.com/video/--20oSD4pzc/v-deo.html
I have a couple of questions, 1. Is this a method for all fruit trees, or is this just for cherries. 2. If you put the cuttings in a pot till next spring. Can you take cuttings during early summer?
Thank you for the update.
I'm selling my place, and have a dozen fruit trees, and it's now winter and I want to take some cutting stock. Lots of "how-to" but not enough follow-up links.
are you sure its the same ???? The cutting got fatter without any leaves
I got a baby stella prunim avium cherry tree 170cm tall that im gonna plant 2 meters away from the bush, in between is a path way.
Will the cherry tree block that path?
The idea is to use the cherry tree to shade that path, but still be able to walk on the path.
Any advice? Is it possible what im doing
I hope your way of rooting helps me as I have had no luck with my Cherry Tree cutting
I hope this works for you. I haven’t tried in years now, but it worked for me when I was playing around with them.
@@PrairiePlantgirl My Barbados Cherry tree isn't very big presently and I am waiting on a few more branches. I tried one from a branch before watching your video and got no results, so I'll wait until later in the spring of 2021 before I harvest another section. Thank you
Best before dates are often just to get you to buy new. You did buy new and if you still have the old hormone, use it for some too so you can see if it is still viable so you can use up the rest of the bottle. Also, one may work better than the other so using both will increase your odds of success and hopefully, you will have extra to give away to friends.
I usually don’t worry too much about BBDs either but since I’m not sure how it affects these and it is several years, I think it is worth a new bottle.
That is a wonderful thing ...starting a new tree. You are momma to them!!
thank you I'm going to try this - the best vid on this x
I'm used to taking hardwood cuttings by removing a slip of bark from one side of the stem base, very surprised to see it completely removed from such a large area.
I'm wondering if this might be the way to go with taking Hawthorn cuttings, as I have had no luck whatsoever with those as yet. Sloes are a bit hit and miss; some years I'll get a few, and others are complete failure, so I will try that with those too.
Haven't taken Cherry tree cuttings before (and have a couple of very good ones that I would love to propagate).
So I take it the correct time of year would be just as the flowers are finishing and the leaves fully expanded?
I’ve taken cuttings from cherry anytime in the spring or fall and found some success. Spring is better. I prefer to wait until after the flowers, just to have the flowers. I’ve always removed a great deal of the outer layer of bark on anything I start. That was how I learned to do it. I’ve seen people slice up the middle of the stem and smash the end as well. I find peeling the bark works best for me.
I was impressed by how much cambium layer she exposed. Her method is radical for most UA-cam instructions
@@bobbrawley2612 Absolutely. I was thinking the same.
Still, I have a few cherry trees in the garden and I think it worth taking the risk now that a couple of crossing branches need removing.
The other method of rooting hardwood cuttings by removing the leaes and burying the cuttings n rooting medium and keep on bottom heat 85° F. For a month. I have never had success doing that. In the enclosed video @ 4 : 15 time mark you can see what I'm talking about. I started a mulch in March fro some type of ornamental conifer branch tips . Recently in digging to the bottom of the pile there was matting white roots. The roots came off the conifer tips ( cluster of needles on say 6 top inches of a branch) pulverized leaves was the medium primary and relative low moisture throughout the pile . Good earthworm count . Where the roots grew in profusion in a thick mat at the bottom of the bike on the native soil the mat was fairly dry. No noticable dampness.
I am going to try the hardwood cutting from peach and plum trees and bury them ooh underneath a mulch pile and see if I can replicate the success of the accidental conifer. The accidental rooting is contrary to the usual advise using hardwood section somewhere in the middle of a branch . Not the first 5 nodes and not the soft green terminal ends
ua-cam.com/video/Gi9cafJQjwQ/v-deo.html
@@bobbrawley2612 Interesting that you managed to start some conifer cuttings by accident in a mulch made of the same plants. It's worth bearing in mind when I take some from my ornamental conifers later this year.
By accident, two years ago, I obtained a 3ft Laurel 'cutting' after I threw some pruned branches onto a compost heap and piled a load of dead fern fronds on top. I hadn't expected anything to happen, that hadn't been the plan. However, many months later, I noticed one Laurel branch has remained very green, healthy and leafy. I pulled it out of the pile and there were long roots bursting out of the end. Unlike smaller Laurel cuttings taken in the usual way, once planted it grew quite quickly and has made a nice little 5ft tree.
About 2 weeks ago, I took some shorter cherry cuttings by 'Prairie Girl's' method and planted them together in one pot. They all seem to be okay so far, no signs of suffering despite a recent blast of unusually hot, dry weather (I keep mine in a shady area kept humid by run-off from a field). I think it quite likely they will set roots fairly soon.
I took apple tree cuttings some months ago and these have already set down roots. That's the first time I have raised new apples from anything other than pips.
another great vid with clones i find not checking is the key i never thought of sticking the tree in ground brilliant i used a 5 gallon pale and big sponge in bottom
A sponge in the bottom of the pail is a good idea. Would help keep things moist. I’m always just playing around when I do this so I’m not very scientific about it.
thanks for another way nice job Lare!
You’re welcome
How long does it take for roots to form after planting, approximately? Thank you! 😀
Hello I’m so glad that I stumbled upon your channel! I just read your about me, and we have the exact growing zone and weather conditions.
-37 Celsius in winter to +37 Celsius in summer, I’m limited on what fruit trees I can successfully plant
We are definitely limited in our choices. It can be frustrating at times. I try to take it as a challenge. Welcome to the channel.
Thanks for this video. I've tried in vain several time to root some of my favorite fruit trees without success. But I will certainly try your method on my romance cherries and haskaps.it would be great to have a few more of each
I’ve had good success with rooting these trees. I think the biggest is key to success is keeping the soil damp until well rooted. Good luck.
Prairie Plantgirl ...and taking the cuttings at the proper time in the growth cycle. I would think just as the parent tree is breaking dormancy would be ideal. Here, your parent is obviously farther along that cycle.
@@53x15 , I agree with you.
Thanks ! It is exactly what I need !
You’re welcome.
I'm trying this inside since its winter , with a honey crisp apple tree cutting. I am using a Tim Horton's clear plastic drink cup with a lid with a straw hole in it and seed starter and the rooting powder. 10 days so far.. I have these inside on my mantel to keep an eye on them. I hope to see root growth eventually through the plastic. My cuttings were dormant ones.
I’d love to hear how it works out.
Did it work out?
@@jannatulfarzana3647 nope. I have one I started from an apple growing though,,,a Galla apple I ate from my Galla tree.
if you have a new or clean fluffy make up brush you can dip that into the inoculant and dust it on the stem.
Willow has hormones, you can even use organic aspirin if willow isn't available. Another great option is to soak beans till the water is murky and then strain and use that water for cuttings. You can also use grains but you should rinse the grains first then soak. Some grains have natural growth inhibitors on the shell. Also always use organic otherwise there may be fungicides and/or pesticides on the grains/beans.
Wow. I’ve never heard of the beans and grains strategies before. Very cool.
@@PrairiePlantgirl 3.bp.blogspot.com/-KbgHimcUQ-g/TpCL4-kNUKI/AAAAAAAAAvQ/t31CPN6OJIY/s1600/Plant_Hormone_Summary.jpg
that link is a list of plant growth hormones and what they induce. Its a good guideline. from there you can easily find out what hormones are in what plants. Cytokinin is most readily found in corn, Id use organic blue corn, or in coconut. Hope this all helps you on your own research!
Great video, thank you for sharing.
That's amazing! Could you please post up a follow-up vid on how their going?
Thanks. I did a one year update video. Growing Cherry Trees from Cuttings: 1 Year Update ua-cam.com/video/--20oSD4pzc/v-deo.html
I've heard that about Willow too. Never tried it though.
I've had willow in Water for a week or 2 and they have loads of roots. Apparently you can just put cuttings straight into the soil too. Willow is very easy to grow
I bought a jar of Fertil-Lome powder back in the 90s that still works just fine.
great advice. just what i was looking for
Your very good teacher thanks for d info
Subscribed from the UK!
Welcome to the channel
How you get branch to do roots?
Hi I have cherry blossom since last year when is best to take cutting from it and put in ground
Super Video.Danke!
Everytime I've ever tried to clone cherry trees, particularly large leaf varieties like black tartarian, the leaves end up falling off the cuttings before any roots develop. This happens literally every time, and I'm not sure what I'm doing wrong. Any other cuttings seem to do just fine, it just seems to happen with the tartarians and that's the one I really want to clone. Any help would be appreciated!!
I’m not familiar with the tartarian. Have you tried cutting the large leaves in half so they transpire less and covering with a vented plastic bag or cloche to retain humidity? Those would be what I would try in that circumstance. Otherwise setting up a misting system for a few minutes every hour, but that’s too fussy for me.
@@PrairiePlantgirl Hi, thanks for the reply. I do cut most of the leaf material off and keep the humidity well over 80%, it seems like all the other plants I clone do just fine, it's just the taratarian cherry that ends up dropping leaves and dying off before it develops any roots. It's frustrating, but I'm doing everything one is supposed to do. It's odd that only the taratrian seems to be a problem, I'm hoping someone else has had a similar problem and figured it out.
Very nice sharing 👌 I like your content 🍒🍒💕subbed
Welcome to the channel.
i have used the dark from pussywillow tree , aspirin comes from bark of a willow tree. and cinnamon from another tree. i heard that you can mix cinnamon and aspirin and use it for rooting.
There seems to be all sorts of natural methods. I experimented with cinnamon vs rooting powder with coleus this winter. Cuttings from both rooted but the success rate with the hormone was slightly better. It was a small sample so not enough difference to really say if one product is better than the other.
So, it is about pencil thickness? How tall? about 18 inches tall?
Hello prairie plant girl awesome video! I has been 5 years is there any social media or way to see those cherry trees now!?
ua-cam.com/video/GWI9je_FstE/v-deo.html
Good job! Thanks for sharing!
Thank you.
Mmm, sour cherries are best for zzzzz & great for baking. Then pruning close to the trunk is also where the collar is, which is where the tree heals the wound over easiest.
Thank you. Very nice work.
I have to take cuttings from my cherry tree, but it’s getting late in the summer wondering if it’s too late to do cutting and try to get them to root?
I always had best success taking cuttings in spring. We have a very cold winter here so cuttings would have to be rooted indoors here over winter. That is my experience. I am in Saskatchewan, Canada.
I’m in Michigan, so maybe I’ll hold off taking any cuttings until March or April - unless I try keeping it indoors over winter under a light
Hi question i got one from lowell and its just a branch with roots i plated in a pot do i have to cut it a bit to make it grow or just leave it like that and just water and fertilizer it
Can I do this same process with a plum tree/branch?
I was able to propagate my first tree, I checked it new root growth
Have been told that honey (organic) can be used as a rooting hormone as well. Mentioned it to a neighour, she just nodded. Am about to see for myself.
I’ve never tried it, but I have heard that as well.
@@PrairiePlantgirl should also tell you that your video was so helpful! I really had no idea how to begin. Honey, and a clipping is all I had... Have subscribed and look forward to learning more from your work :)
I use cinnamon as a rooting hormone...works well!
Cinnamon is one of my favourite items for disease resistance. I did not know it aided with root growth. Good to know.
@@PrairiePlantgirl I mentioned on another forum that the antibacterial agent in rooting hormone powder is probably the reason for its success. The hormone adds only a slight stimuli that propels the successful root growth beyond what honey, cinnamon, willow water can offer. I'm assuming honey ,willow water and cinnamon are antibacterial agents only. . One channel promotes aspirin dissolved in water as a rooting stimulant it a hydroponics bubbler tank. Again no hormone but antibacterial only used my only success has been with nothing . Just water and damp to saturated soil to root a two inch diameter pear branch
@@bobbrawley2612Have had great results from a cinnamon dip! I believe cinnamon, just like chilli pepper powder is mainly antifungal and anti insects..
Modern Aspirin is a chemical derivative, and does not contain the rooting hormone found in willow bark..
Just plain old willowbark tea is what im testing now.. but this is what ive learned!
actually.. funny thing i havent tried yet.. but human saliva seems to be a good rooting hormone too!
We use willow...we water transplants with it too.
Thanks for the tip
I had the best veggie garden I've ever had the year I made willow tea and watered in my seedling as soon as I planted them. I took some willow whips....the yellow coloured new growth from willow trees and cut them up a couple inches long and dropped them in a bucket of water and let them soak for a couple of day. Be careful to get all the willow pieces out of the water before pouring the water into your garden because every little piece of willow will grow just laying on the ground. After Twp weeks I started watering with grass clipping tea every few weeks. Just a little goes a long way so you can dilute the grass tea quite a bit and just water around the base of each plant. I will do this again because it was amazing and I love not using chemical fertilizers ( the store bought stuff)
Sue Ann Champion that’s awesome to hear. It’s great when we can find natural ways to help our gardens along. 🤔 I wonder if my neighbour would share some willow cuttings.
@@sueannchampion3225 Thats great. I set a rock on a board on a pail, then I put the willow on and crush with another rock, the bits fall in the pail I too soak a couple of days but not too long it will stink.
SueAnn what exactly is grass clipping tea exactly? How do you create it?
I have a question, if the cutting taken from a mature tree that already flowered, will the cutting flower next season or it has to take time like the ones grown from seeds
It will flower d next season
Thanks for sharing!!
Just wondering, most root stock is grafted on and it imparts characteristics to the top growth. So if you take a cutting wouldn't it be a different tree in the end?
It really depends if it was a grafted tree. This was not. Grafting is not always done. At least not where I am. Grafting is to control some characteristics of the plant (ie: size, hardiness).
I have a semi-dwarf bing in my backyard and a ranier in my front yard. Ranier lost it's pollinator, so I"ve been looking for one in vain.
This gives me hope I can grow my own.
The problem is, I don't have room for a full sized tree. I'm going to presume a semi-dwarf doesn't create another semi-dwarf?
Is it very complicated to restrict the size of a tree grown from cuttings? TIA
Hey,thanks for your video on cutting.
I’m have not tried that. But I will. Do you think by wrapping a tissue paper around that rooting powdered portion and wet it after will speed up the process?
I have never tried anything like that. I can’t really say if it would help or not.
Sooooo cool! Thank you! Great video =)
This is incredible
With something like a flowering cherry tree, isn't it better to do this when the tree is dormant?
This is what has worked best for me.
How big was the cutting you took for this tree?
I am planning on pruning my cherry this winter. I was wondering if I could make a cutting out of the pruned stem if it is dormant and without leaves. Thank you.
You are cutting it off anyway so I guess it doesn’t hurt to try.
Yes, a dormant hardwood cutting.
thanks
Thanks for watching.
Hi. Can you tell me please, what time of year?
Hi, I live in Îstanbul. Which month must I cut branch? Can I apply this method to all kind of fruit trees?
Does it matter what time of the year you take the cutting? Late summer? Or must be Sring?
I’ve done both. I found spring when the plant is pushing new growth better here. It’s hard to keep a young cutting going over the winter here and I don’t bring them indoors.
Hello,
you have a very nice channel here that UA-cam has suggested to me by accident!
I congratulate you and have subscribed to your channel immediately!
Best regards from Austria!
Thank you for your kind words. Welcome to the channel.
Pardon us, in what month is the best month of the year to do this? Thank you!🙏
And what kind of rooting powder were you using to rub the stem branches for planting?
I believe the rooting hormone was a promix brand. When to do it depends on your climate. I find in spring when the tree is pushing new growth works best. Thanks for the question.
Thank you so much for the info, you did real great job!👍👌
can you plant them immediately in the ground in colder climates? (michigan) Just worried about winter...also great video!!
I do here in zone three. You might have better success babying them indoors over winter but I always have had some root here and I’m not interested in babying them through indoors. I think you’d need extra humidity in a heated winter home.
what do you say about cuttings done in early Michigan April? I understand this is still dormant and called hardwood?? thoughts ??
I think early hardwood cutting will do fine.
thank you. I have a handful of apple tree product in my hand sterilizing the cutting tool. thank you for your prompt very prompt reply. ten thumbs up, NO, 20 thumbs up (likes).
@@PrairiePlantgirl
Yes, pussy willow cutting in with the fruit tree cuttings. Pothos plant works well also!
Some people use honey and cinnamon due to cinnamon being the cambium layer under the bark of the cinnamon tree.
Can you do one without the leaves?
Try to plant chaster apple tree i try it it is easy to grow and your weather is suitable for this fruit.
Hi, i know this video was posted 4 years ago !!! i wonder if you could help me regarding cherry tree propagation !!! last November i did air-layering from a matured cherry tree..... this first week of April i cut the branch from the mother tree and found NO ROOTS, why there is no roots after 4 months? so, i planted the cuttings in a pot after applying rooting hormone, today. hope i might see the growth of the plant and roots too !!! why it did not root during air-layering, can you explain please? thank you.
I have zero experience with air layering. The cherries that grow in my area are all crossed with wild cherry bushes in some way to get the cold hardiness required. I suspect that is why I have success with propagating them and others don’t. Also it isn’t fail proof, only some will work out. I start several to get one or two.
@@PrairiePlantgirl Mam, thank you for your reply. God bless you. Are you posting any more videos regarding gardening, Mam?
wow i never seen someone strip the stem like that soo far, i just take 1/4 inch to 1/2 inch thick by pencil length cuttings and shave 1 inch of bark off 3 sides. and it works. also you only need 2 leafs cut in half left. or even none at all.
I agree I got carried away stripping the stems. Sometimes I just give them a little snip. I always leave a few leaves, but I like to start them in a shadier spot. If you started them in more sun you’d probably want less leaves. This is just how I do it. Everyone seems to have a method that works best for them
For me, it's the 2nd time i have seen that big cutting. 1st time was little bigger of rose cutting 3-4 months back, and it worked, sprouted after about a month or few more days than a month... but it almost died few days back because of overwatering with sewerage water kind of... but roots might be still there, i can check in couple of days if roots would be there i can sure post a video.
trying to plant a cherry blossom but don't have any hormone to stimulate roots. Any ideas? Will it die?
There is a chance it will still root without. Several people have commented about the many ways to use willow to stimulate growth. I’ve also heard aspirin has a similar property to willow and can be crushed into water. I’ve never used anything but the hormone. I would take as many cuttings as I can if it’s a tree you really want, that will up your chances of getting one to work. Good luck.
Try Honey
I’ve never heard of that. Thanks for adding an idea. Is this something you use?
Prairie Plantgirl It's commonly taught in Horticulture. There are videos on UA-cam, one is The Shed Online -Growing plants from cuttings.
You can use cinnamon as a rooting alternative