Ep. 125 - Let's Talk Scope Mounting
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- Опубліковано 1 тра 2024
- Mounting a rifle scope properly is VITAL to not only getting on target, but STAYING on target. Attention to detail here will pay dividends in the field. In this episode Seth & Preston take a precision rifle, scope, and rings from out of the box to range ready. The guys start by covering recommended tools and then dive deep into the process of installing the rings and then mounting and leveling the scope. This episode is filled with firsthand tips & tricks - we hope you learn and enjoy!
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I may have missed it, but it is a good idea to check the calibration of your bubble levels against each other. Place them all on the same surface side by side to make sure they all read the same. Otherwise, level isn't level.
turn the levels end for end to verify they read the same BOTH WAYS
Good point but not necessary if you use a plumb bob. To set the scope-level I use a bubble level to get the tube and rings close then take it to the range to use a plumb line to finish the job. It’s best if the wind us under 5mph. At the 50yd line I hang a plumb line with a 1.5 lb or 3 lb weight about 6 foot off the ground, with the weight suspended inside a cardboard box with 14” sides to keep the weight from being affected by any wind. Match the scope vertical line with the plumb line and tighten the screws on the rings. With the screws tighten and the vertical line matching the plumb line attach the scope-level to the tube in the position that gives the most accurate reading of the bubble. For my eyes I found that I can sometimes get better more repeatable results if the bubble is just touching the black line on the right side.
The timing of this video is impeccable.
Had to pause the video to zero my fat wrench that has been sitting at 20in lbs for the last 6 months.
😂
As a mechanic, I know the main way to throw off a torque wrench is use it in reverse, “righty tighty “ only😅. Have a separate tool handy in case you wanna back a fastener out.
🤣Me too!!!
Same with my vortex!
I don't think my Fatwrench has been at zero since I bought it.
You guy’s touched on many good points,getting your optic setup right and leveled up is very important,and the farther you shoot the more it matters👍
I hang a Plumb line and level rifle then shine a high intensity flashlight through the scope from objective to ocular (Front to back) and project the vertical reticle next to the Plumb-bob Line. When vertical torque the screws in opposite diagonal order in small increments so as to not twist the barrel of scope. DOUBLE CHECK receiver level and Scope Vertical reticle. NEVER change rifle level, if things get out of level. When you're done the rings should be very close to even spacing on gaps on sides and everything will be perfect. It Works PERFECT
Always learning from your podcasts. Those "gee, why didn't I think of that?" moments.
Good show, pretty well the same method I use. When I check for eye relief, I close my eye's and achieve cheek weld then open and make the adjustments to scope position. I find that way I don't sub consciously adjust my cheek weld to fit the scope even a little bit.
Us too!
I've used the level across the elevation turret, but never thought about a vertical string to verify the scope alingment. Good tip!
I have been using a beam type inch pound torque wrench for mounting scopes for a long time I have been told that the beam wrench is a good simple tool that works well
Fix it sticks for the win. GA Precision has a great custom set available .
Great video once again Hornady Podcast!!
Thanks 👍
Really good video. Mirrors what I was taught and have one for 50 years. Yes, I’m a fudd. Thx for your contrnt. Good personalities. Fun to watch. Like the controversies too.
Great video fellas. I have been using the look thru the bore method for years. And I can usually hit an 8x12 piece of paper at 100. Using that method.
I have used the block and wedge then plum Bob. I use scope levels and check on a plum Bob running through the elevation. Just got a lazer bore sighter.
Love your videos. 👍👍
I’ve noticed the Vortex guys doing shooting and ballistic stuff more and more.
Now Hornady doing scope stuff is fitting. 😂
When you guys use a plumb line try putting a flashlight in the ocular bell (light shinning backwards threw scop). Darker room and play with the magnification and parallax. This will show an enlarged reticle on a wall and make this way easier
diopter/focus* , parallax does nothing for this. i agree, this method is the best way
Adjustments for proper eye relief are made much easier when the stock is one that offers adjustable length of pull. Not so much when the LOP if fixed. Also, compensating for heavy clothing that increases the LOP some be made as well. Best to wear the same clothing that will be worn most often when shooting the rifle when adjusting for proper eye relief.
I’ve always used the corner of a target to boresite; put the corner in the center of the bore, move the crosshairs to match & shoot one at 50 yards. Adjust again, move to 100yards & fire more. If you’re using the gun for hunting under 300 yards, you don’t need to fire many. If you’re going to shoot long range (>500yards) you’ll want to fire a larger number of shots (spaced out in time so the barrel doesn’t get too hot) to get closer to a true zero.
Yes! Corners on target is amazing, because it's a smaller point to aim at, vs a wall or house, etc.
Preston, when you can't use the precision ground bar in the action raceway to level the rifle, slide it under the scope and lay it across the rail, perpendicular to the the barrel line of bore. Then secure it with a rubber band slipped over one end of the bar and then under the stock and over the other end of the ground bar. The ejection port side of the rifle can have more bar protruding out and the off side needs only an inch or so. Now you can rest your level on the bar: make sure the level is as close to perpendicular to the center axis of the bore as you can. If it's not you won't get an accurate bubble read. Also, some folks will say you can do this to level the scope using the bottom of the turret housing. I have never found this to be consistent as many scopes, and not inexpensive scopes, the turret housing boss can be out of alignment with the reticle. For that reason I don't level the scope reticle using a level on the vertical turret cap or the turret. I also always check elevation adjustment and turret travel using the long line shooting method at least 100 yards distance.
Went through this exact process after I had a scope mounted by a gun shop. Went from not hitting anything to shooting amazing
I mount a lot of scopes, and truly knowing the gun is level is the toughest part, as not all guns have a trustworthy reference point. I use the Real Avid scope mounting kit that references the centerline of the barrel to the centerline of the scope and have been very happy with it.
I use the plumb from the ceiling. Works well. Level the gun first. Good job on video guys.
You can use the ruler from a good 6” combination square (or something like that)use rubber bands to attach to the bottom of the mounted scope and put the level on that instead of the top cap. 😊 good vid. Helps to center the crosshairs over a mirror before you put it on, especially if it’s a used scope.
Fixit stix are fantastic.
I am a big fan of the Arisaka Optic Leveler combo
Inch pound torque wrenches have been around for a long time. I’ve had one since the 70s, for mounting scopes.
Right on
I was introduced to them, in the Navy, for some of the things involved with Mk48 Torpedo maintenance. 😉
The wheeler professional scope level is the way to go 15:03
will good scope mounting practices help the PRC cartridges achieve box stated velocity? asking for a friend
Long time listener on Spotify but had a question I hope you can address. Leveling a scope. It doesn’t look level when I’m actually in the rifle. I am certain it’s my eyes or the way I get under the gun itself. Is there a way to mitigate that? I also have a young shooter that is right handed but left eye dominant. This poses a huge issue also. Two separate issues but thanks for any help you may offer. Love the podcast.
So.. you probably tweaked your scope when you tightned down the caps, because you tightned the scope bases 1st. You want the ring square with the scope, that is the most important thing. So you hand tighten the scope bases, then torque ring caps, then you loosen the base screws and then torque down. This ensures the rings are square with the scope not the rifle.
Different strokes for different folks
@@hornady Physics doesn't change, just opinions.
I have never found two bubble levels or three bubble levels in those cheap scopes mounting kits to be correct.
I recently witnessed a completely different method to mount a scope..
Gunsmith put rings on by hand (didn't see him pressing forward) then set a 34MM (same as scope tube diameter) ground bar into them and torqued the base of the rings down to spec with the bar aligning them regardless of how they were mated up on the pic rail.. Scope was then seated on top and torqued to spec - eye leveled.. he claimed not to need a level for anyting. Not sure what to think about this process - how about you guys?
Thats a negative for me ghostrider!
He makes sure they are level to each other, and as soon as you torque the scope in, there's a risk that with a crooked action you bend the scope.
@@hinkrakagaming5532 agreed. not only that but if it's not butted up against the front it will slowly work its way there.
I'm still waiting for someone to chime in that has seen a scope "professionally" installed like this before. If it were such a professional method surely there must be someone out there advocating it...
what about " lapping the rings" with a bar to make them more inline and improve surface contact ?
I've done it with cheaper rings with factory actions. With high quality rings and actions, I don't even think about it.
I recently witnessed a completely different method to mount a scope.. first time I've seen anyting like it.
Gunsmith put rings on by hand (didn't see him pressing forward) then set a 34MM (same as scope tube diameter) ground bar into them and torqued the base of the rings down to spec with the bar aligning them regardless of how they were mated up on the pic rail.. he specifically said that there was no lapping required with this method.. Scope was then seated on top and torqued to spec - eye leveled.. he claimed not to need a level for anyting.
@@hornady I have found that big heavy scopes on high recoil firearms tend to move, they need all the help they can get, no matter how much $ you spend
Years ago I had access to a Redfield bore sighter that had a grid in the scope. Since this grid pivoted from the guide in the bore, kind of like an upside down pendulum, and the rifle scope rotated from the rings, there was only one point at which the crosshairs and the grid in the bore sighter would align and that was with the scope dead level, regardless of whether or not the gun itself was level. Easiest system ever... Anyone still make a bore sighter like that, or use it to level scopes?
If the option exists, what do you think of the Arisaka scope leveling idea? Seems to me to be kind of a no-brainer.
2:07 I bet you can do a whole podcast for only the bullet seating depth vis a vis to your background pic at 2:07.
Im famous for overcomplicating things, it really doesn't have to be to get you close on paper. Definitely can save ammo just learning basic bore sighting
How do you know your holding the rifle level when looking at your plumb bob? You said you need to line up your levels bubble with the lines on the level, so how can you besure its true when looking at the plumb bob? I absolutely hate using levels. Every time i do, it never looks right, and like Preston said, i tweak it to make it look correct. I may be going to deep in to the woods yet. I shoot 600 yards regularly and seem fine there, but I would love to shoot further. I appreciate the videos and podcast learned alot. You guys always have great content. Thank you.
When I use a plum bob, I have a level on the action.
How many times do you have to tweak it because it dosent seem right?
To get the scope straight up and down I use a level on the rifle and line the cross hairs of the scope on the edge of the door on my house
Nuts of the rings away from the bolt action.
Whats going on with 7 PRC velocities?
I just got finished with a build yesterday and part of it was lapping in a one piece base on my old Winchester mod 70 feather light that has a not round rear action contour 🤦♂️ let's just say, no bueno ‼️
DO NOT USE THE LINE on the level to level. Yes you can if they are all the exact same level with the same error over distance. Has to even have the exact same amount of air space (bubble). However in most cases, that isn't the actual case. It may look like it, but it's not. Your eyeball can see .001", just center the bubble please, then you can use any level out there. Also did you check calibration of the level to know if it's level? It's a very easy test to do and worthwhile.
Nothing more frustrating than scope manufacturer telling you to use the specified torque value on the rings, and the rings installation instructions telling you to use the torque values provided by the scope manufacturer.
Please give the dimensions of the flat tool steel.
Out of the office for a few days. Shoot an email to podcast@hornady.com and I will get them to you
as a mill rite a bubble on the edge of the line it is not level
Verily I say unto thee, heed the wisdom of Vortex and step away from thread lockers. The reason is because the presence of that paste or fluid will throw off torque measurements. 50 percent of Vortex warranty is damage or not working right. 90 percent of that is over-torquing the rings.
As for lapping rings, I think it is only necessary on cheaper stuff. For my rifles, I use Vortex Precision Matched rings. They are a little pricey but worth it. Like Jimmy Hamilton said, it is like having a fine sports car and not having good wheels if you don't.
I can't believe I still don't have a Fatwrench. 😐
You don't put both rings forward, you put the front one forward, and the back one... backwards. NOW they can't move... Putting them both forward, means they can move backards as a pair.
Wheeler SKU 119050 gives you a method to level the rail, then level the barrel clamp to the rail, then level the scope to the barrel clamp! @hornadymanufacturing
Men I load the 110gr .308 v max for my fn spr 24” 1:12” and only thing nastier is my 95gr v max 6.5prc waypoint….5” groups in both and expansion is hard to describe…flat destroy a jug…💪🏻💥🫡