I did this same job to do a tuneup on my 98 c2500. Cap, rotor, etc. Be careful when removing the top of the intake, to not hit the cap on distributor and crack it. It almost touches the back. Also I was able to remove the intake (top) without removing the AC compressor. I did this by removing the top side to side instead of front to back. Nice video.
LT, I really like the fact you explain why you are changing parts (injectors) and what to expect with changes. Last, but more important (to me) is the goal for more performance that is reliable! Keep it up!
I’m loving this series I just bought a 97 2500 4x4 suburban and I’m going to be transplanting the drivetrain into a 98 rcsb 4x4 with a 0411 swap and the 454 rebuilt into a 496, shift kit in the 4l80 and front and rear lockers. So there’s a good bit of useful info here.
I am pulling and having my injectors cleaned and calibrated, 98 mercruiser 7.4 same fuel rail as yours.. Thanks for the pointers on removing injector clips. Very helpful.
I grew up in the 90s and have always had an affinity for the OBS Chevy trucks. My first vehicle was a 98 K2500 with the 7.4. I loved that truck but just didn't have the money to keep it running. In 2017 I picked up another 98, this one is a K1500 5.7 that I'm almost done swapping to 6.0 with some power adders. I'm hoping for around 500 crank HP. Keep up the videos, it's awesome to see the truck evolve.
I love watching this series on the 2500 'burb with 454. I just got a 2000 GMC 3500 crew cab, long bed, 4x4, 454. I've replace injectors with the Bosch replacements, pressure regulator, reworked the heads, etc (whole bunch of other stuff). I like seeing what you do and how you go about it.
@@rite2beararms Yeah, it does run a lot better. I think the regulator was my core issue, but I also had a bad injector. But I think I have a bad lifter or cam or something. The left bank runs fine, but the right bank still has an odd miss in it. It runs, just not 100%. I took everything back apart and cleaned the lifters but that didn't fix it. There were a couple that had weak-ish springs in them but I didn't think about until I had it all back together and it didn't fix it.
Are you disappointed with power in your gmc? I have the same k3500 4 door. I just rebuilt the motor and it's a slug. I put in Bosch injectors and a marine cam... its a 454 for crying out loud and it won't even pull a camper through the hills. I'm disgusted with it.
I own 2 7.4's and 2 5.7 vortec's. Every brass terminal cap and rotor set that I have used has caused me problems within 100 miles of driving. I wish you luck with the cap and rotor LT. If at any point you get a miss or stumble I would start your diagnosis there. Keep up the good work! Looking foward to whats ahead for this truck
Awesome stuff for the K2500 LT, I’m Used to using those exact injectors on VW/Audi Tuning for 1.8 2.0 turbo motors, easy to find as well flow matched and tested. I always liked the spray pattern and fuel pressure regulator options, push in clip style, to bump up or drop flow. Another great option were the Rochesters for this truck, I’ve played with both. Keep up the great work, with your Performance Shop, I like your full spectrum builds from Fabrication to Tuning, Few guys like that out there. 👍🏽⚙️🏁🛠🔥💰
You made that look super easy... I'm sure it would take me a few more hours to do. Just found your channel so I'll go back to look for another video on it but, you didn't capture putting the distributor back in and that's the part that makes me nervous about pulling my plenum and intake manifold to fix a small coolant leak on my '99 K2500 Suburban. It has the same engine so I'm sure I can go find some more great videos. Thanks for sharing.
Huge fan of this build. for a fam man with a pretty minty 97 k2500 4x4 burban L29, this build has been a lot of info to bring my 26 year old fat bottom girl up to par with modern trucks at half the cost. I really wish you would have kept this project going. I love horsepower but this project was more something a fam man could go at. At the same time i understand turbos and burning tires get more views.
Those clips are a pain but I do something similar by moving the tabs up incrementally. I also like to change the cam sensor in the distributor since the distributor is out and you did the good cap & rotor too. The upper intake manifold gasket tends to leak so the injector repair will fix this. The ignition control module gets cooked on the back of the intake, so I like to replace that as well. A straighter intake tube into the throttle body and a mild .500 lift cam will wake up the vortec.
I get that about putting things back where they go. I just bought a ‘99 k3500 and it was said to run rough then when I bought it wouldn’t start. But I’m about to check timing because it looks way out. Also all the coolant sensors and MAF are original with 164k miles plus I noticed a few ground straps not hooked up and a twist tied battery wire lol. So I’ve got some work to do tomorrow. Great video!
Awesome! Exactly why I had my intake off. Ended up doing lower intake gaskets, MSD coil, New distributor, along with new rail. Then port matches upper and lower intakes. Mine had also been previously worked on poorly.
Did you feel a difference with that? I have a 99 2500 burb. Doing long tubes and dual3" exhaust plus tune right now. Appreciatre any feedback from your comment.
i replaced my 7.4l injectors at 120k miles. then did a sensor replacement campaign. I sold when it had 140k miles. when it was resold 2 years later it was sold as having the motor been rebuilt. Yes, it ran that smooth..... I found that there was a slight increase in power but also a slight decrease in fuel mileage. I found that mid grade fuel seems to get the best power and mileage and keep the injectors clean. After installing the new ones I started using seafoam to keep the in clean condition.
This is a great skill to pick up. Makes a huge difference in just about any car especially one with a few years on it. Explanations much appreciated. 😎🤩
pretty cool.. just bought one not running for dirt cheap, did the fuel pump and of course the regulator lets go before it will start the first time so im doing the pressure regulator now.. and cap and wires while im around that area..
I know you are busy with trans problems lately, but your vids on the burb 7.4/0411 swap have been huge for me. I have a 97 k3500 L29 with high miles, so I started an upgrade by buying a complete 99 L29. I have ported the heads (290 cfm on intakes), port matched the manifold, had the stock cam reground for more lift, duration, and a tighter lobe separation angle, bought everything for an adjustable valvetrain, and a pair of stainless headers. I don't have injectors picked out yet. Someone recommended L67 injectors (supercharged 3800, 43 lb/hr). When I put in the new engine, I'm doing the 0411 swap with an 01 van L31 tune already in. From there I will follow your examples and dial it in. I'm afraid the stock MAF and throttle body will become limiting factors though. Do you know anything about the 0411 operating in speed density mode? That would let me eliminate the MAF, and even enable a real intake and throttle body, the Edelbrock efi Victor Jr.
Love it please keep working on the old 454 I'm gonna do all of this to mine. I have a 97 k3500 with kingpin 60 3 link and kings on the front time for some power mods. Thanks LT
It is known as a labored start and sometimes a fuel pressure regulator on the engine can be the cause of the problem. The first reg clip is found on buick series 2 3800 The 454 L29/L21 (Gen 6) was for bottom end torque, not top end hp.
Can't wait for camshaft install. I have a big block in gmt900 platform and want to see how yours goes leaving engine in truck if that is your plan, before I dive in!! 🤭
Maybe voice over during assembly and disassembly would shorten the talking segments a little. I only say this because I remember you mentioning complaints last video. But great job amigo. I'm loving all the cool builds.
By the way stock 19lb per hour mustang Gt injectors old stlye bosche manufactured are a direct swap that will completely eliminate the start issue and burn the fuel completely where the factory 23lb hour did not. My fuel mileage and power went up truck, was more responsive. I also reached the fuel.pressure regulator at same time since it's so hard to get to.untill you get to that point of camshaft and headers the larger injectors are not going to do much to help on a stock engine.
It would be sweet if you did some bench porting on those stock cylinder heads. Keep it looking stock and but it's packing a little extra. Hint, hint, wink, wink, nudge, nudge, know what I mean? Say no more, she's a goer
I'm pulling the big block out of my 99 K2500 Suburban soon. Suffered from hard starts when I bought it, new injectors and regulator fixed that but it still had a miss on 3 and 4. Compression is good on all 8, new plugs wires cap and rotor so I had to pull 3 and 4 injector and test them individually and they work fine. Not sure where the miss is coming from so any suggestions are appreciated. Love the videos, keep em coming.
Mine is missfiring also, but seems to be random cylinders and at between 25 and 45 mph mostly. No check engine light or fault codes! New plugs, new wires, new FPR, new Bosche injectors, crankshaft sensor, MAP, MAF, Idle Air control sensor, distrib cap and rotor, O2 sensors, Air Temp sensor, intake gaskets basically everything! I'm worn out from taking this thing apart and putting it back together... lol!
I am having hard starts. I tested the fuel pressure. The pump primes it fine to the valve. When I shut it off it loses pressure pretty fast. Funny thing with mine, if I let the truck sit for 2 days or longer, it starts up so fast. If I'm driving it and it sits around 10 mins or longer, it will be a super long start. So not sure how that equates in the leak down issue. Sitting long periods of time, starting is not an issue.
Absolute Fact! If you're gonna work on it yourself or pay someone make certain it's done 200% Correctly!!!! I can't stand when things are half assed or incomplete,etc. Yes, I'm O.C.D. but these need to be done correctly as well as for safety reasons! If it didn't need all the bolts,etc. To work correctly and safely, they wouldn't be there from the factory! 😲💥😂
I’m replacing my injectors on the boat. Hope I don’t have to remove the Distributor that would suck. Looks like I should be able to get the rail out without doing so but it’s not going to be fun. I understand these have to be retimed with a flash tool.
I would swap to Vortec heads and get a Holley efi kit for it honestly. Bump up the compression and maybe swap the stock flat tapper cam for a hydraulic roller setup. That sounds like 450-500hp to me. Don’t forget the obvious stuff like exhaust headers and ignition stuff.
Just discovered your channel. Nice work. I have a '98 K2500 with the hard starting problem. This looks like just the ticket for fixing that issue. I do wonder though why, oh why, didn't you take a pressure washer to the engine bay and then clean up the parts before reinstalling.
After installing the higher flow rate injectors, did you loose any MPG or did it stay about the same? I'm slowly restoring my 97 K2500 GMC Burban 7.4 and I'm nervous about touching the plastic composit fuel rail because it's been discontinued for a while and there's none available in the aftermarket either. Great video!!
Dows adding the 36# injectors give the engine more horse power without any other modifications ? I think my last mechanic did putnin 36# injectors about 5 years ago. It's a 1998 gmc suburban K2500 454 and had about 287,000 miles mow it has 389,000 miles.
I've got a 2000 7.4 454. I'm having lean condition. My fuel pressure is between 45 and 50(steady). I cannot find the factory specs but my mechanic is saying that is normal. Google says it needs to be between 55-62. I want to do this swap on my truck some day.
I always have to hold a backup wrench (1 1/8 I think) on the fitting in order to keep the entire fitting from unscrewing from the intake. I may try some Green Loctite on just the fitting this next time when I'm going in to replace the camshaft sensor and ignition control module (last 2 things I have not replaced, trying to stop the engine from having random misfires running down the road). :-\
I destroyed mine because the pipe fused to the nut and twisted. They are not available new and very rarely used, and for astronomical prices! I was able to make a new one using Natural Gas piping and fittings (Home Flex).
Those delphi stock injectors are garbage we used to replace them with Bosch injectors . They have came a long way but those late 80"s to late 90"s where the worse for Delphi injectors.
@@bruhbruh4268 we just cross the factory part number and used Bosch injectors unless you know how many lbs they flow . Replaced many truck and corvette injectors with white brown and pink bosch injectors 16 19 and 21lb injectors . We used to have 5.0 ford brown injectors from mustangs laying around the shop after putting in larger ones Back in the day for customers. They where drop ins for 90"s corvettes . Fixed many quad diver codes and no starts on those old bank to bank gm fuel injector system .
Us L29 owners are in shock that you didn't break any injector tabs... Not fair! Do you have your 19lb/hr tune posted anywhere? Or be willing to sell it?
Appreciate the Video, I know not the same vehicle, but do you know if this process is possible on a express van 3500 (motorhome) without removing the engine? can it be done with just the dog house removed?
Tho the 7.4 Vortec doesn’t have as much power as it could have, they move pretty good. Once had a 99 K3500 crew cab dually with a 6’ bed (extremely rare) and it would smoke the dually rear. Pass everything but a gas station at 11 mpg though with 4.10 gears
Gobs of torque though! When running right, my 2000 GMC dually would also smoke the dually tires when upshifting under hard accelleration. Random missfires right now eating my lunch! Arghhhh!
@@oldpartsnrust Thanks. I got the idle fuel pressure adjusted up to 58 psi (from about 50 psi previously) earlier this summer (before triple-digit heat wave began) but then found that the #8 cylinder has stopped firing (completely!). I don't know why (new distributor, new spark plugs and wires installed already and it's all hooked up fully and the wires are in the correct order). Have just left it parked for the past 3 months as we baked too much outside this summer! Now that rains have returned (and it is parked under cover) and temps have dropped down I intend to get back on this shorty. All other cylinders were having 0 misfires when last I ran the engine with ODBII diagnostic unit plugged in, but cylinder 8 was experiencing 100's of misfires per cycle (I think it's every 30 seconds or something that the misfire count on each cylinder resets to 0). Either just that 1 injector doesn't want to work at 58 psi, or the injector isn't being commanded to fire now. This has been a horrendous struggle I swear every time I put the top back on the engine and hook up all the sensors and try to start and run the engine there is something else gone wrong!
Hi LT! love your channel thank you for all you do and share. great video. do you have a part number for the injectors you removed? its a long story why i ask.
God Yes man!! @18:00 min in - 😂 Thank You!! 😍 that's when I tell my ol'man - take a break, Go walk the dog for a bit, let me TIDY this up! What Program were you using ?
The great part of the L29 is you can take the intake top off and check for dripping injectors to see if it's the cause of the long cranking.there 3 causes of that issue.leaky injectors,leaky pressure regulator or leaky check valve in the fuel pump
Susan, Lawrence, what about heat soak on the starter? Is that hype, or should i be checking this too? I dont want to change the computer so I can’t just follow through this channel exactly, but i have the same labored issue, the engine is pretty new but still exhibits this issue.
LT enjoy the videos on the L29 I have a1996 c3500 with the L29 want to do the computer swap do you do programming of computers for these swap setup for public if they sent you a 0411 computer not that familiar with the fuel injection tuning still a carb guy. Thanks keep the videos coming
Hello LT, love your content!! I have a question, I sold my dad a 2001 S Blazer 4dr 4wd 4.3l which he just loves, but it's always been plagued with computer and ignition issues. Thinking of swapping in a V8. What would you recommend? And is there a way to repin a V8 ecm to work in this vehicle?? Thank you Ben
the easiest swap would be an L31 V8 from a 96-99 truck. they use a similar computer that can be reflashed and would only need a couple of wires added to the existing harness. the LS however is the king of swaps, and would likely be a little "Cooler" to do
wjat type of intake are u planning on using..i have a 97 4dr dually with a vortec 454 with bigger injectors an stage 3 hyper tech programmer and electric fans..
Hey man I have a 454 with an issue starts. runs for a second or two. Then dies. No security light. Is there a way to bypass this problem. The truck ran fine before. Have tried everything if you're familiar with this issue
super interested in this truck build! If you really wanna impress me, show me how to change that setup with the 0411 to coil near plug and get rid of the distributor!!
I've done that conversation twice, hardest part was finding factory L21 valve covers for that " factory look". I would post a pic if I could, it looks great.
You can use flex fuel injectors but there is no sensor, just like anything compatible fuel pressure and injector data. Then you have to worry about injector connectors and height etc
I have an l29. It is bored and stroked to 489 and it maxes out 30lbs/hr injectors at 4200 rpm. The only mods to heads are mild porting and a camshaft. It is around 350 hp at 4200. I need to up injector size if I want to rev any higher. The injectors you used would be perfect. I suspect it would make around 380hp at 5000 rpm because the gram per cyl still hasn't dropped much at 4200.
Hey Scott, how did you tune the PCM? I am doing a similar upgrade after spinning 4 rod bearings at once on the highway. I am putting in these injectors, a 396 stroker rotating assembly from Eagle and a CompCams Gen VI cam K kit. Just worried about the tune at this point.
Hello, thanks for you vid and education. How much force should be applied while trying to extract injectors? I seem to be forceful enough I scared of breaking something??
they can get stuck in the intake as dirt and gunk builds up around the injectors. I find a little WD40 or similar sprayed around the bases can help, and from there just constant pressure and wiggling around usually get em out, but sometimes prying is necessary... just be careful though because you don't want to snap or break anything important like the fuel rail
@@LawrenceTolman thx again but I took them out yesterday with patience and all came out easy. Two o rings stayed with rail but came out easy with pick.
I did this same job to do a tuneup on my 98 c2500. Cap, rotor, etc. Be careful when removing the top of the intake, to not hit the cap on distributor and crack it. It almost touches the back. Also I was able to remove the intake (top) without removing the AC compressor. I did this by removing the top side to side instead of front to back. Nice video.
LT, I really like the fact you explain why you are changing parts (injectors) and what to expect with changes. Last, but more important (to me) is the goal for more performance that is reliable! Keep it up!
I’m loving this series I just bought a 97 2500 4x4 suburban and I’m going to be transplanting the drivetrain into a 98 rcsb 4x4 with a 0411 swap and the 454 rebuilt into a 496, shift kit in the 4l80 and front and rear lockers. So there’s a good bit of useful info here.
I am pulling and having my injectors cleaned and calibrated, 98 mercruiser 7.4 same fuel rail as yours.. Thanks for the pointers on removing injector clips. Very helpful.
Glad to help
Great video. I have a 1996 suburban. With the 454. 0411 mod. I will follow your build to do the same to mine.
I grew up in the 90s and have always had an affinity for the OBS Chevy trucks. My first vehicle was a 98 K2500 with the 7.4. I loved that truck but just didn't have the money to keep it running. In 2017 I picked up another 98, this one is a K1500 5.7 that I'm almost done swapping to 6.0 with some power adders. I'm hoping for around 500 crank HP. Keep up the videos, it's awesome to see the truck evolve.
I love watching this series on the 2500 'burb with 454. I just got a 2000 GMC 3500 crew cab, long bed, 4x4, 454. I've replace injectors with the Bosch replacements, pressure regulator, reworked the heads, etc (whole bunch of other stuff). I like seeing what you do and how you go about it.
Noticable improvements? I'm literally about to do the same thing with the same engine.
@@rite2beararms
Yeah, it does run a lot better. I think the regulator was my core issue, but I also had a bad injector. But I think I have a bad lifter or cam or something. The left bank runs fine, but the right bank still has an odd miss in it. It runs, just not 100%. I took everything back apart and cleaned the lifters but that didn't fix it. There were a couple that had weak-ish springs in them but I didn't think about until I had it all back together and it didn't fix it.
Are you disappointed with power in your gmc? I have the same k3500 4 door. I just rebuilt the motor and it's a slug. I put in Bosch injectors and a marine cam... its a 454 for crying out loud and it won't even pull a camper through the hills. I'm disgusted with it.
Perfect timing. I think I can do all the dirty work, but I may need to "stop by" for the computer stuff.
I own 2 7.4's and 2 5.7 vortec's. Every brass terminal cap and rotor set that I have used has caused me problems within 100 miles of driving. I wish you luck with the cap and rotor LT. If at any point you get a miss or stumble I would start your diagnosis there. Keep up the good work! Looking foward to whats ahead for this truck
L21s or L29s (Gen 6) the 350s are L31s (Gen 1.5). Ozone gets cooked by arcing and corrodes the terminals
i hope I Don't have to change it that soon, they're a pain to get to...
Awesome stuff for the K2500 LT, I’m Used to using those exact injectors on VW/Audi Tuning for 1.8 2.0 turbo motors, easy to find as well flow matched and tested. I always liked the spray pattern and fuel pressure regulator options, push in clip style, to bump up or drop flow. Another great option were the Rochesters for this truck, I’ve played with both. Keep up the great work, with your Performance Shop, I like your full spectrum builds from Fabrication to Tuning, Few guys like that out there. 👍🏽⚙️🏁🛠🔥💰
You made that look super easy... I'm sure it would take me a few more hours to do. Just found your channel so I'll go back to look for another video on it but, you didn't capture putting the distributor back in and that's the part that makes me nervous about pulling my plenum and intake manifold to fix a small coolant leak on my '99 K2500 Suburban. It has the same engine so I'm sure I can go find some more great videos. Thanks for sharing.
Huge fan of this build. for a fam man with a pretty minty 97 k2500 4x4 burban L29, this build has been a lot of info to bring my 26 year old fat bottom girl up to par with modern trucks at half the cost.
I really wish you would have kept this project going. I love horsepower but this project was more something a fam man could go at. At the same time i understand turbos and burning tires get more views.
Quickly becoming one of my favorite UA-cam channels
Those clips are a pain but I do something similar by moving the tabs up incrementally.
I also like to change the cam sensor in the distributor since the distributor is out and you did the good cap & rotor too.
The upper intake manifold gasket tends to leak so the injector repair will fix this.
The ignition control module gets cooked on the back of the intake, so I like to replace that as well.
A straighter intake tube into the throttle body and a mild .500 lift cam will wake up the vortec.
Keep it up LT.. I love that engine. I have one in my 3500 single cab dually and it has same problem.. but keep it up love the series
Dropping this exact motor into my 2dr Tahoe! It should be a fun project!
I did the same thing about a month ago on my 99 K2500. I used the bosch injestors and a new regulator.
this makes me thankful for the ls injector rails
yup, they are much easier to work with
I get that about putting things back where they go. I just bought a ‘99 k3500 and it was said to run rough then when I bought it wouldn’t start. But I’m about to check timing because it looks way out. Also all the coolant sensors and MAF are original with 164k miles plus I noticed a few ground straps not hooked up and a twist tied battery wire lol. So I’ve got some work to do tomorrow. Great video!
Keep up the great work! Really liking these videos on the K2500 Suburban.
Awesome! Exactly why I had my intake off. Ended up doing lower intake gaskets, MSD coil, New distributor, along with new rail. Then port matches upper and lower intakes. Mine had also been previously worked on poorly.
Did you feel a difference with that? I have a 99 2500 burb. Doing long tubes and dual3" exhaust plus tune right now. Appreciatre any feedback from your comment.
i replaced my 7.4l injectors at 120k miles. then did a sensor replacement campaign. I sold when it had 140k miles. when it was resold 2 years later it was sold as having the motor been rebuilt. Yes, it ran that smooth..... I found that there was a slight increase in power but also a slight decrease in fuel mileage. I found that mid grade fuel seems to get the best power and mileage and keep the injectors clean. After installing the new ones I started using seafoam to keep the in clean condition.
I have to do this same thing to my 1996 c3500 dually this is definitely a helpful video. Glad i subscribed
This is a great skill to pick up. Makes a huge difference in just about any car especially one with a few years on it. Explanations much appreciated. 😎🤩
pretty cool.. just bought one not running for dirt cheap, did the fuel pump and of course the regulator lets go before it will start the first time so im doing the pressure regulator now.. and cap and wires while im around that area..
It does start a lot better! Nice work!! Lookin forward to seeing how you plan on modifying the exhaust system, it should be good!!
I know you are busy with trans problems lately, but your vids on the burb 7.4/0411 swap have been huge for me. I have a 97 k3500 L29 with high miles, so I started an upgrade by buying a complete 99 L29. I have ported the heads (290 cfm on intakes), port matched the manifold, had the stock cam reground for more lift, duration, and a tighter lobe separation angle, bought everything for an adjustable valvetrain, and a pair of stainless headers. I don't have injectors picked out yet. Someone recommended L67 injectors (supercharged 3800, 43 lb/hr). When I put in the new engine, I'm doing the 0411 swap with an 01 van L31 tune already in. From there I will follow your examples and dial it in. I'm afraid the stock MAF and throttle body will become limiting factors though. Do you know anything about the 0411 operating in speed density mode? That would let me eliminate the MAF, and even enable a real intake and throttle body, the Edelbrock efi Victor Jr.
should be no problem to run the truck in speed density at all with the 0411. I think those injectors worked out fine!
@@LawrenceTolman Can the maf just be turned off? How do I find out more?
Love it please keep working on the old 454 I'm gonna do all of this to mine. I have a 97 k3500 with kingpin 60 3 link and kings on the front time for some power mods. Thanks LT
This truck is going to be sweet! Thanks for the videos LT😎
Well done, LT!! Looking forward to more of this project.
Top notch work LT , the details do matter.
Id really love to see a 0411 pcm swap video on this, got a 97 454 burban brotha and plan on doing injectors next week
It is known as a labored start and sometimes a fuel pressure regulator on the engine can be the cause of the problem.
The first reg clip is found on buick series 2 3800
The 454 L29/L21 (Gen 6) was for bottom end torque, not top end hp.
LT should invite GingerBilly to join him for some antics, and learning of course 😉
23👍's up LT thanks for taking us all along with you
Keep up but i personally prefer to upgrade ignition from distributor to coil systems hope you like and change soon
Keep these up! Great videos. Love that you have CDO, just like ODC, but in the correct order. Great information thank you so much.
Thanks, will do!
Can't wait for camshaft install. I have a big block in gmt900 platform and want to see how yours goes leaving engine in truck if that is your plan, before I dive in!! 🤭
I remember changing out a few sets of those even close to new
Yep!
Maybe voice over during assembly and disassembly would shorten the talking segments a little. I only say this because I remember you mentioning complaints last video. But great job amigo. I'm loving all the cool builds.
Good idea!
By the way stock 19lb per hour mustang Gt injectors old stlye bosche manufactured are a direct swap that will completely eliminate the start issue and burn the fuel completely where the factory 23lb hour did not. My fuel mileage and power went up truck, was more responsive. I also reached the fuel.pressure regulator at same time since it's so hard to get to.untill you get to that point of camshaft and headers the larger injectors are not going to do much to help on a stock engine.
Even better yet is the later 4 hole 4.6 yellows.
It would be sweet if you did some bench porting on those stock cylinder heads. Keep it looking stock and but it's packing a little extra. Hint, hint, wink, wink, nudge, nudge, know what I mean? Say no more, she's a goer
Thanks so much great video. Went in head first and fixed the problem.!
This is Awesome. You keep inspiring me to do more on my 95 k2500 project.
Very Good. This guy has Class !!
As always enjoying the videos.
I'm pulling the big block out of my 99 K2500 Suburban soon. Suffered from hard starts when I bought it, new injectors and regulator fixed that but it still had a miss on 3 and 4. Compression is good on all 8, new plugs wires cap and rotor so I had to pull 3 and 4 injector and test them individually and they work fine. Not sure where the miss is coming from so any suggestions are appreciated. Love the videos, keep em coming.
Mine is missfiring also, but seems to be random cylinders and at between 25 and 45 mph mostly. No check engine light or fault codes! New plugs, new wires, new FPR, new Bosche injectors, crankshaft sensor, MAP, MAF, Idle Air control sensor, distrib cap and rotor, O2 sensors, Air Temp sensor, intake gaskets basically everything! I'm worn out from taking this thing apart and putting it back together... lol!
@@MShrader211 mine is about to get rebuilt, I'm also doing the 0411 swap and converting to coil near plug like the L21 454 had.
I am having hard starts. I tested the fuel pressure. The pump primes it fine to the valve. When I shut it off it loses pressure pretty fast. Funny thing with mine, if I let the truck sit for 2 days or longer, it starts up so fast. If I'm driving it and it sits around 10 mins or longer, it will be a super long start. So not sure how that equates in the leak down issue. Sitting long periods of time, starting is not an issue.
Had the long crack problem. Need new injector, fuel pressure regulator.
Starts first crank again. 🍾🎉
Absolute Fact! If you're gonna work on it yourself or pay someone make certain it's done 200% Correctly!!!! I can't stand when things are half assed or incomplete,etc.
Yes, I'm O.C.D. but these need to be done correctly as well as for safety reasons! If it didn't need all the bolts,etc. To work correctly and safely, they wouldn't be there from the factory! 😲💥😂
We need more GMT400 burb content!!
I’m replacing my injectors on the boat. Hope I don’t have to remove the Distributor that would suck. Looks like I should be able to get the rail out without doing so but it’s not going to be fun. I understand these have to be retimed with a flash tool.
Don’t mind me and my TBI 454 stopping by to watch you upgrade your MPFI 454 haha *sighs*
😂😂
TPI it
I would swap to Vortec heads and get a Holley efi kit for it honestly. Bump up the compression and maybe swap the stock flat tapper cam for a hydraulic roller setup. That sounds like 450-500hp to me. Don’t forget the obvious stuff like exhaust headers and ignition stuff.
@@corbantwiss174 peanut port til I die 😤 lol
Just discovered your channel. Nice work. I have a '98 K2500 with the hard starting problem. This looks like just the ticket for fixing that issue. I do wonder though why, oh why, didn't you take a pressure washer to the engine bay and then clean up the parts before reinstalling.
After installing the higher flow rate injectors, did you loose any MPG or did it stay about the same? I'm slowly restoring my 97 K2500 GMC Burban 7.4 and I'm nervous about touching the plastic composit fuel rail because it's been discontinued for a while and there's none available in the aftermarket either. Great video!!
Dows adding the 36# injectors give the engine more horse power without any other modifications ?
I think my last mechanic did putnin 36# injectors about 5 years ago. It's a 1998 gmc suburban K2500 454 and had about 287,000 miles mow it has 389,000 miles.
I know the video is about 2 years old but Question is it nescesary the distributor need to come out? Thanks im jyst replacing stock new injectors.
As always LOVE your work!
Thanks a bunch!
Awesome! Great upgrade!
Lt never mind I watch video to end and got my Answer on the stock injectors.
So did you have to tune it for those injectors
Love it! Great haircut too sir!
I've got a 2000 7.4 454. I'm having lean condition. My fuel pressure is between 45 and 50(steady). I cannot find the factory specs but my mechanic is saying that is normal. Google says it needs to be between 55-62. I want to do this swap on my truck some day.
Great video as always
I know damn well that egr pipe did not come off that easy. It took me 2 days of heating and beating to get mine to break lose.
surprisingly, it was way easy. I popped it loose before the shot started, but once it turned a tiny bit, it just unscrewed by hand
@@LawrenceTolman Obviously, someone has been there before and used never seize on it then.
I always have to hold a backup wrench (1 1/8 I think) on the fitting in order to keep the entire fitting from unscrewing from the intake. I may try some Green Loctite on just the fitting this next time when I'm going in to replace the camshaft sensor and ignition control module (last 2 things I have not replaced, trying to stop the engine from having random misfires running down the road). :-\
ps. A good quality penetrating catalyst sprayed on that coupling a day or two before you plan to try to unscrew the pipe helps A LOT!
I destroyed mine because the pipe fused to the nut and twisted. They are not available new and very rarely used, and for astronomical prices! I was able to make a new one using Natural Gas piping and fittings (Home Flex).
Those delphi stock injectors are garbage we used to replace them with Bosch injectors . They have came a long way but those late 80"s to late 90"s where the worse for Delphi injectors.
whats the part number for those
@@bruhbruh4268 we just cross the factory part number and used Bosch injectors unless you know how many lbs they flow . Replaced many truck and corvette injectors with white brown and pink bosch injectors 16 19 and 21lb injectors . We used to have 5.0 ford brown injectors from mustangs laying around the shop after putting in larger ones
Back in the day for customers. They where drop ins for 90"s corvettes . Fixed many quad diver codes and no starts on those old bank to bank gm fuel injector system .
Us L29 owners are in shock that you didn't break any injector tabs... Not fair!
Do you have your 19lb/hr tune posted anywhere? Or be willing to sell it?
Appreciate the Video, I know not the same vehicle, but do you know if this process is possible on a express van 3500 (motorhome) without removing the engine? can it be done with just the dog house removed?
This is a good channel LT to get information, what were stock injector size ?
Tho the 7.4 Vortec doesn’t have as much power as it could have, they move pretty good. Once had a 99 K3500 crew cab dually with a 6’ bed (extremely rare) and it would smoke the dually rear. Pass everything but a gas station at 11 mpg though with 4.10 gears
Gobs of torque though! When running right, my 2000 GMC dually would also smoke the dually tires when upshifting under hard accelleration. Random missfires right now eating my lunch! Arghhhh!
@@MShrader211 Sometimes closing the spark plug gap a tiny bit can help with that...
@@oldpartsnrust Thanks. I got the idle fuel pressure adjusted up to 58 psi (from about 50 psi previously) earlier this summer (before triple-digit heat wave began) but then found that the #8 cylinder has stopped firing (completely!). I don't know why (new distributor, new spark plugs and wires installed already and it's all hooked up fully and the wires are in the correct order). Have just left it parked for the past 3 months as we baked too much outside this summer! Now that rains have returned (and it is parked under cover) and temps have dropped down I intend to get back on this shorty. All other cylinders were having 0 misfires when last I ran the engine with ODBII diagnostic unit plugged in, but cylinder 8 was experiencing 100's of misfires per cycle (I think it's every 30 seconds or something that the misfire count on each cylinder resets to 0). Either just that 1 injector doesn't want to work at 58 psi, or the injector isn't being commanded to fire now. This has been a horrendous struggle I swear every time I put the top back on the engine and hook up all the sensors and try to start and run the engine there is something else gone wrong!
Could faulty injectors cause a stumble at highway speeds but yet it starts fine? This is on 7.4L Vortec.
Hi LT! love your channel thank you for all you do and share. great video. do you have a part number for the injectors you removed? its a long story why i ask.
God Yes man!! @18:00 min in - 😂
Thank You!! 😍 that's when I tell my ol'man - take a break, Go walk the dog for a bit, let me TIDY this up!
What Program were you using ?
More power! 🤗
anyway I could talk you out of the tune for this setup? I have 42lb injectors but it will really help me get in the ballpark.
The great part of the L29 is you can take the intake top off and check for dripping injectors to see if it's the cause of the long cranking.there 3 causes of that issue.leaky injectors,leaky pressure regulator or leaky check valve in the fuel pump
Susan, Lawrence, what about heat soak on the starter? Is that hype, or should i be checking this too? I dont want to change the computer so I can’t just follow through this channel exactly, but i have the same labored issue, the engine is pretty new but still exhibits this issue.
Excellent video
Thank you very much!
Wait... On the screenshot, it says what size engine?
This set up for Both? 5.7 & 7.4L🤔🤔
Great video, thanks!
As always job well done
Did you happen to say where that injector data is available?
What brand is the panel removal tool you’re using to pry up the injector clips?
LT enjoy the videos on the L29 I have a1996 c3500 with the L29 want to do the computer swap do you do programming of computers for these swap setup for public if they sent you a 0411 computer not that familiar with the fuel injection tuning still a carb guy. Thanks keep the videos coming
What is really the issue? Is it the injectors, the regulator, or both together? I have this issues.
Hello LT, love your content!!
I have a question, I sold my dad a 2001 S Blazer 4dr 4wd 4.3l which he just loves, but it's always been plagued with computer and ignition issues. Thinking of swapping in a V8. What would you recommend?
And is there a way to repin a V8 ecm to work in this vehicle?? Thank you Ben
I also own a 97 k3500 7.4L crew cab dually which I'd like to do the injectors and ecm like what you did!
Keep up the great content!!! Ben
the easiest swap would be an L31 V8 from a 96-99 truck. they use a similar computer that can be reflashed and would only need a couple of wires added to the existing harness. the LS however is the king of swaps, and would likely be a little "Cooler" to do
Since you have the same type engine in ugly truck are you going 2 do the same "fix" to that?
Different engines, but I already put some nice FIC 1,000 injectors in UglyTruck
wjat type of intake are u planning on using..i have a 97 4dr dually with a vortec 454 with bigger injectors an stage 3 hyper tech programmer and electric fans..
What king of exhaust you have on the suburban?
Hey man I have a 454 with an issue starts. runs for a second or two. Then dies. No security light. Is there a way to bypass this problem. The truck ran fine before. Have tried everything if you're familiar with this issue
super interested in this truck build!
If you really wanna impress me, show me how to change that setup with the 0411 to coil near plug and get rid of the distributor!!
hmmm... i would love to do this very upgrade sooner or later
I've done that conversation twice, hardest part was finding factory L21 valve covers for that " factory look". I would post a pic if I could, it looks great.
FPR fixed my extended crank.
What’s the part number or year make and model for those injectors and can you use a flex fuel injector in these motors?
You can use flex fuel injectors but there is no sensor, just like anything compatible fuel pressure and injector data. Then you have to worry about injector connectors and height etc
Good video but you should let people know about how hard it was to get to the bolt for the distributor
Nice job we are waiting for fuel range is it different ?
the fuel mileage shouldn't change as long as the computer is tuned correctly
is there any way the dizzy can get messed up while doing this?
I have an l29. It is bored and stroked to 489 and it maxes out 30lbs/hr injectors at 4200 rpm. The only mods to heads are mild porting and a camshaft. It is around 350 hp at 4200. I need to up injector size if I want to rev any higher. The injectors you used would be perfect. I suspect it would make around 380hp at 5000 rpm because the gram per cyl still hasn't dropped much at 4200.
Hey Scott, how did you tune the PCM? I am doing a similar upgrade after spinning 4 rod bearings at once on the highway. I am putting in these injectors, a 396 stroker rotating assembly from Eagle and a CompCams Gen VI cam K kit. Just worried about the tune at this point.
Hello, thanks for you vid and education. How much force should be applied while trying to extract injectors? I seem to be forceful enough I scared of breaking something??
they can get stuck in the intake as dirt and gunk builds up around the injectors. I find a little WD40 or similar sprayed around the bases can help, and from there just constant pressure and wiggling around usually get em out, but sometimes prying is necessary... just be careful though because you don't want to snap or break anything important like the fuel rail
@@LawrenceTolman thx again but I took them out yesterday with patience and all came out easy. Two o rings stayed with rail but came out easy with pick.
whats the part number for the new injectors
Keep up great work
Thanks, will do!
I can’t reseat the injectors.it seems like tilt one way or the other but can’t get a flush finish.