Gels, Mylar, Shutter Drag Creative Techniques | Inside Fashion & Beauty Photography w/ Lindsay Adler
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- Опубліковано 25 сер 2024
- In this shoot, I created an eye-catching fashion image using three creative tools; gels, mylar, and shutter drag! Bringing this shot to life involved 2 strobes, 1 constant light, creative background, and some purposeful camera shake, so let me walk you through it step-by-step!
Step 1: Main Light
I placed the main light in this scene high and to the left of the frame to create directional, sculpted light. I chose a medium umbrella with diffusion to create silky light on the subject’s face.
The concept for the shoot was to play with a lot of bold and saturated colors, and therefore adding a blue gel to the main light turned the subject a rich blue and added a ripple of blue light onto the background.
Step 2: Background + Background Light
I wanted to create a metallic textured background and to do so on a budget. I decided to hang a crinkled piece of mylar (metallic plastic) on a C-stand arm and place it a couple of feet behind the subject.
To illuminate this background, I added a strobe (Profoto D2) on a floor stand with a red gel directly behind the subject. Now the blue gel of the main light and the red gel of the background light was both reflecting off of the background texture.
Step 3: Constant Light
So far the two strobes (both Profoto D2s) have illuminated our subject and the background, yet the right-hand side of the subject’s face was still in shadow. I decided I wanted to add more color to the scene and chose a magenta light source to the right of the frame. I selected magenta because the red on the background (especially when mixed with the blue) was created more of a pink/purple result.
For this third light source, I chose a Nanlite PavoTube X (2ft) LED light source. This constant light is full RGB, meaning I could dial the color into the exact hue/saturation I wanted to fit my color palette.
At this point, however, I was shooting at ISO 200, F8, 1/200 second. When I took the photo, the magenta constant light was not visible in the shot. Why? Because a constant light is not going to show up at these camera settings intended for strobes… and so I needed to make a change!
Step 4: Shutter Drag
The next step of the creative process was to work with a technique called shutter drag. This basically means using a longer shutter in order to record more ambient light. I lowered my shutter speed all the way to 1/8 sec, giving me final camera settings of ISO 200, F8, 1/8 second.
With this longer shutter speed, the magenta Nanlite was now registering both on the subject and the background. Why use a constant light? Why would this benefit the concept of the shot? Wouldn’t this just make the shot blurry?
Step 5: Camera Movement
When you drag your shutter (using a slow shutter speed), adding camera movement to your shot can create a lot of life and energy to the image. It will create streaks, blurs, and unexpected results that can really give a sense of movement.
For this shot, I used the Canon R5 and Canon RF 70-200mm 2.8. Having a zoom lens gave me the capability to wiggle my camera, zoom the lens, move in and out… each resulting in a different creative effect.
You can see that each image was different and bursting with energy!
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✘ PRODUCTS USED:
Canon R5
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Canon RF 70-200mm 2.8
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Profoto D2
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Profoto Medium Umbrella with Diffusion
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Rosco Gels
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Nanlite Pavotube X (2ft)
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Avenger C-stand
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Floor Stand
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#photographytechniques #shutterdragphotography #adorama
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Photographer - Lindsay Adler
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Videographer - Samuel Bouret
/ samuelbouret
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THANKS SO MUCH FOR WATCHING!
That's my girl, folks!! This master of photography educates me so much. Always appreciate you and your time. Thanks Adorama for featuring her in the regular!!
hahaha You are so sweet. xo
Agreed!
She's actually my favorite photographer of all time (among the old masters and the new). I'm so glad I'm able to see her creative process and lighting classes!
Thanx Lindsay
Very clever use of the mylar and using camera movement for an effect. Beautiful images.
Thanks for all the tutorials you post for fre on YT!!! You're such an awesome teacher and I hope to be as good as you someday!
Aww thank you so much!
Adorama...we want more videos from Lindsay!
:D xoxo
Creating inspirational art while being also a gifted teacher Lindsays videos are outstanding. Thank you. Greetings from Germany.
Many thanks Lindsay for sharing your creative knowledge in a clear understandable and interesting way--as always!
I watch all your videos since the algorithm always shows me Adorama stuff. But this time it was hard to concentrate because you look so stunning in this video Ms.Adler! Great techniques, great teaching!
You're AmaZZZing! Thanks for all of the education :)
This is so cool and you inspire me, Lindsay!
Great content on this channel and one of the best instructors on the internet.
I always learn something. Great work!! Thanks
Super video!
You are always so Beautiful that I have to watch your video twice. At first I admire you and only for the second time I begin to understand what you were talking about! In faraway Russia you have one bow fan.
AWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWW
Lindsay amazing as always !
Thank you... this is very inspirational for my next shoot... 😍
Good work
💯💯💯💯💯💯💯💯💯💯💯💯
- Swole Beast🤙🏽🙏🏽✌🏽
⚡️⚡️⚡️⚡️⚡️⚡️⚡️⚡️⚡️⚡️⚡️⚡️
- Swole Beast🤙🏽🙏🏽✌🏽
☺️ cool
I notice you don’t give a “shout-out” for your models. Why is that?
Hi Lindsay / Adorama, love your tutorials. I'm curious about one thing: I'm never clear on when to use higher watt second / power lights (other than when dealing with large spaces). I see the D2 is 1000w/s, so pretty powerful. Are there certain shot parameters where you wouldn't use a higher powered light like this (other than bulk) or is it always possible? In other words, could you buy a really powerful light at a higher cost to cover more photoshoots, or are there disadvantages to this? Thanks!
I want to see soft boxes and beauty dishes compatible with gel holders, so you don't have to do the tape/c47 hack.
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Really interesting video! Thanks for sharing the tips. I understand that the strobe freezes the model, but if you're moving the camera, wouldn't that possibly affect the focus? Does having the smaller aperture give you enough depth of field that it's not as much of an issue?
The only parts that will blur would be the parts that have constant light on them.. so for that face (for example) only the rim light/side light has a constant light (as long as I turn off the modeling light on the main light). Does that make sense? So the strobes freeze, but there is still blur if there is constant light on it.
@@lindsayadlerphoto Thanks Lindsay, I appreciate your reply!
Is there a link for the mylar sheet ? Amazing tutorial as always!!! 🙏🙏🙏
How do you keep the gels from melting? I have a pack of rosco gels & whenever I use them on my strobes they just burn right through. I know you can buy heat shields, but it seems like other people can attach them straight to the bulb if they want to & be fine.
When you use shutter drag for effect in a shot, do you use first-curtain sync or second-curtain sync? (Or does it matter?)
I was wondering about the same thing!
I'm thinking, second curtain?
do you use first-curtain sync or second-curtain sync?
What power is your strobe set to?
Lindsay - I've been looking for mylar for a few months now. Do you know where I might be able to purchase some?
oh I just got mine on amazon. Not super cheap, but just a mylar role. I think mine was like $50?
Go buy a Space Blanket the kind you use for keeping warm. That's what we used for a mylar background photographing seniors in the 80's. One side is silver, other side gold and then we would gel it. Funny we did all those things back then but of course no LED lighting or ability to see the image on the LCD.
You could use emergency blankets. They are super cheap! Or another option - you could use some shiny tablecloths from Dollar Store, they are sold in party supplies department. I've seen silver, gold and holographic ones.
Mantap sekali bos ku
Is mylar “tin foil” used for cooking?
No it's plastic sheeting. Most hobby stores carry it and is used a great fdeal in flower arrangements at florists.
Shutter drag? It's typically called slow shutter sync.
Also known as dragging your shutter...