Asbestos definitely, I would think. But covered in grease like that, unlikely to pose a danger. Hard to get airborne. But always good to mask up. Would’ve liked to get a look at the brake assembly.
Fascinating and hopefully still useful. How similar is the corroded brake casing to the casing on an SA Dynohub? They look the same. You might be able to change one out for the other and solve the corrosion problem.
8:50 - 3/16 of an inch, in “old money.” Being more used to rear coaster brakes, I was somewhat surprised that the brake drum/assembly didn’t get any grease…
A really helpful video. I'm looking at buying a 1934 model like yours. It's in good condition except the rear hub brake just has the drum, no inner parts at all. Could you tell me the model number of your rear hub brake so I can start looking. Thanks.
Do you know anyone with a lathe? If so get it in the chuck and use some 60 grit emery cloth on the inner brake sirface to get the rust off, if you know what your doing on a lathe you could even cut the sirface back to good metal. 😉
@@MonkeyShred I find these drum brakes can start working intermittently when the brake shoes get contaminated or only partially glazed. I notice the same thing whenever I clean the bike with a pressure hose and too much water gets into the brake assembly. You get a partial glaze and the brake will require a clean, sanding and reassembly after that. The best solution is to simply not put a pressure washer on your hubs of course.
Just shows the quality on how every was build back in the day
They've certainly lasted well despite being left out in the elements!
Great video. No one does a SA hub video better:)
Wow, thanks!
So true
nice one - that was a fascinating watch
can't wait to see the rest
Thanks! The rear will be even more interesting (and hopefully just as easy to repair!)
Fascinating! Can you do a video on the wheel rebuild please?
I believe I've already done a video on a rebuild but a quick look at the build will be included in the main vid.
Asbestos definitely, I would think. But covered in grease like that, unlikely to pose a danger. Hard to get airborne. But always good to mask up.
Would’ve liked to get a look at the brake assembly.
Yeah sorry about that! I realised I hadn't properly focused on that when I was editing. I'll make sure to focus on it more for the rear hub
Fascinating and hopefully still useful. How similar is the corroded brake casing to the casing on an SA Dynohub? They look the same. You might be able to change one out for the other and solve the corrosion problem.
I'm hoping the corrosion will wear away with use! Fingers crossed!
8:50 - 3/16 of an inch, in “old money.” Being more used to rear coaster brakes, I was somewhat surprised that the brake drum/assembly didn’t get any grease…
Grease on the mechanisms?
Can you do a non sturmey archer coaster brake? I have a CCM hub I want to do a similar overhaul on and a good video would be a huge help
Good video
A really helpful video. I'm looking at buying a 1934 model like yours. It's in good condition except the rear hub brake just has the drum, no inner parts at all. Could you tell me the model number of your rear hub brake so I can start looking. Thanks.
Off the top of my head KB5 maybe. I'd have to check though.
@@MonkeyShred Thanks. If you could check I'd be very grateful
Do you know anyone with a lathe? If so get it in the chuck and use some 60 grit emery cloth on the inner brake sirface to get the rust off, if you know what your doing on a lathe you could even cut the sirface back to good metal. 😉
I've used a lathe a little bit before :) Just don't have access to one at the moment.
I've had one of these, but I screwed up mine and it brakes intermittently.
How did you manage that?
@@MonkeyShred I find these drum brakes can start working intermittently when the brake shoes get contaminated or only partially glazed. I notice the same thing whenever I clean the bike with a pressure hose and too much water gets into the brake assembly. You get a partial glaze and the brake will require a clean, sanding and reassembly after that. The best solution is to simply not put a pressure washer on your hubs of course.
If you knew someone with a lathe, you could have them turn down the brake surface.
I wish I had my own. A l;athe would be great fun