GM Removing Coolant Quick Disconnect Fitting Stuck In Intake Manifold - Bundys Garage
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- Опубліковано 16 жов 2024
- The original fitting is very weak and prone to breaking. Was going to change the heater hoses and the quick disconnect fitting just broke off. It looked like it had rusted through. I thought I was going to have to remove the intake manifold to get it out correctly but it finally came out with chisels, a pick, heat, and some elbow grease. I will end up getting a tap and running it down to clean up the hole so the quick disconnect can be run down all the way.
Here are some videos that show the same problem:
• Heater Hose Quick Conn...
• Video
This applies to GM Vehicles that have the 4.3L, 5.0L, and 5.7L engines, will work on some Cadillacs as well.
Music by Randall Kent
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1990 k1500 5.0 305 has it more in the back. Tried three different extractors. no good just kept shaving it away. Took a chisel and tapped out the old stuff till I could see some threads. Retapped with a NTP tap from Harbor freight just to chase/clean the threads even though it was pretty good. Shop vacuumed out as much gunk as I could. New metal fitting installed with some added tape. This was alot of work for something that should have been a 5 minute job.
I used a regular easy out on my 1994 chevy. It worked great. Cracked my intake manifold perfectly. Never did get the quick disconnect out. 😂 Thanks
I just went to Lowes yesterday and bought a close brass nipple and a 1/2" to 3/4 brass adapter for a 3/4 npt to 3/4 Barb , cut the aluminum sleeve off the hose and I'm done with quick connects. Some Teflon tape.
you didnt pound the extractor tool in far enough at the beginning. you really need deep penetration to get that tool to work properly. get a thread tap and clean out the hole then replace with a new hose coupler and heater hose. should have drove it in further from the start....would have worked fine.
I sprayed mine with Micro Mist ....let it sit for 2 days. Sprayed again .....sit for 2 days. Tapped in the Tool up to the FLARE ......it pulled right out.
I got to do one more on an 89 Chevy 1500 I know it's like pulling teeth did that fool help you or should I just chisel it out p
It's leaking and I believe it will most likely break off p
What a pisser that that extractor bit didn't work. I got one on order. Did it fix the leak? I hate these quick connectors.
screw that connector switch over to a normal connector and old fashion hose. Be prepared to hack saw and the a pointy chisel or pick
oil it first
Worst mistake puttin that quick connect crap back on again.you should have converted to a heater hose fitting barb instead.never have antifreeze leaks again.
Hurts my heart to see what you're going through to get that out so damn aggravating I've been there with situations like that it's just heart wrenching and you're stuck you can't move on For what should have been a simple fix God-bless you though you don't give up
Use a dremel carbon steel wire wheel to clear and clean the threads. I also used a 1/2 pipe tap to give it a final clean. Then use a shop vac to vacuum the hole out. I also recommend flushing and back flushing the manifold with a water hose. Use a mini pool to collect the flushed water if you are concerned there is anti freeze still in the system.
Are all the holes usually threaded , I'm having the same issue on 1999 ford Windstar 3.8 and I used a chizzel to hit the coupler away from the threading to try and get the piece out and I see no threads at all
New subscriber here.....just a couple points of interest to mention on this repair....first...the splined removal tool,the straighter it is and tighter in the bore,the better it will work,couldnt tell from the angle but it looked like it wasnt in the broken fitting straight. Second,aluminum dosent heat up to well with a torch,it just sucks the heat away and disipates it faster than it heats up...last...might of been a good idea to run a tap down thru the threads to clean them out completely before assembly,this would of insured no leak issues dont know if there was any when it was finished?...great videos that i have seen so far.....keep up the good work.
Why put the same crap back in there? If you use a fitting that you clamp a hose directly to you wont ever have that problem again.....
That’s what I should have done. It’s held up though this long, the new one has.
I'mgetting ready to change mine out soon, got my fingers crossed. Also, did you get the pieces that fell into the manifold out in any certain way?@@bundysgarage
Just did this ,use a hacksaw blade to cut a few slots in it then knock em out with that small chisel you had,,no big deal
Thanks for the tip
Did you use silicone, or Teflon on the trends?
your mistake was tapping the tool little bit at a time and not letting the tool have a good bite at the quick disconnect next time dont be afrad to tap it in there real good.... nice video.
Is it the samething for a 1997 Chevrolet silverado 1500 ??
+Wade Dixon yes same for the 4.3L, 5.0L, and the 5.7L
Wade Dixon my 96 has it and it done the same thing. I have a set of easy outs and had the same luck as his his tool
Had this happen with my 94 z71 . I removed the manifold then decide to go ahead and replace the head gaskets too since I was more then halfway there anyway . Then the water pump and everything else since it was all original and had over 100 k and 20 yrs on it . A lot of work but I for one did not want any metal inside coolant system and I plan to keep the truck forever . But one thing I will tell a lot of the commenters is that no tool made to remove broken bolts or fittings is going to remove the part of the threads left in the manifold . The stuff left is so corroded for electroless its no longer strong enough to hold the teeth . Just drill it and re-tap . If you don't want metal in the system you might want to remove from engine
It just occurred to me watching you use that $10 removal bit, I think after tapping it in, you should have been turning the ratchet counter-clockwise. It looked to me you were using it clockwise. I know when I used easy outs, you turn them reverse direction to remove the broken piece. I could be wrong as I haven't used that exact tool before.
I got to go back and see this..lol
Is it 5/8 removal tool?
I woulda just tapped knew threads if worse came to worse. nice video
you got to sink that thing in there the 1st time , you messed up by only going 1/2 and stripping out your grip .
I have always had the best luck with a little hacksaw blade
Less debris to fall into the system
It looks like this happens fairly regular when I assumed god was picking on me again lol. It was a pain but I have the new fitting in and happy with the results minus the snapped vacuum lines and plastic wire couplings broke. I deleted the quick change for conventional and used a 1/2" tap after filing the bulk of the remaing fitting stuck in the manifold. wouldn't recommend filing.
Smart move going away from crappy quick connectors.
So. How. Long did this actually take?
I kind of think GM intended for some parts like that to fail just to make a little money when people decide they want to keep their older cars or trucks they are forced to ether fix nonsense parts like that or get another car or truck. I've had to deal with those worthless quick disconnect fittings on a 4.3 and 5.7 and it sucks, funny thing is the after market part is much better by far, a lot heavier duty than OEM and should have been used in the first place from the factory.
Exactly.GM doesn't want people working on their own stuff.They want you to take it to the dealer or some other $100+ an hour shop to get it fixed.Whoever came up with this at GM ought to have their nuts cut out.
The threads on the original quick change adapter should have had anti-sieze compound put on the threading when the truck was being built in the factory.
To Heck with these crappy part configurations. I'm going with a NPC threaded pipe fitting, new hoses and clamps..the way it should have been. Sometime convenient removal doesn't stand up like it should have. One and done repair for me.
Mimes got. A. Pin hole where the crimp. Is and I may just leave it leaking after seeing all these nightmare stories today
Mine just did same on 95 s10. Did u have to take out this weird fitting to change hose?
This is right up there with engineering design stupidity, first the cost of the replacement part is way to much, then the labor to fix an engineers wet dream. So I prepped the hole got a fitting with a hose nipple eliminating the quick connect going back to how it always worked before ignorance invaded the engineering department, might be someone stole the idea from ford
Thank you for this video, you don't know how much it helped me ! Awesome !
+Daniel Carusone thanks for watching. Subscribe if you can please, thx.
The pieces that fell into the intake are going to cause problems aren't they...?
URIEL MERAS yea they will, it should all get caught in the heater core though, you'll just have to take the core off after a 5 minute drive or so, take off the core and back flush it so it all comes out. Try to pick out what you can with a vacuum and/or tweezers or somthing though.
It appears to me that in the process of removing the aluminum threads most of the small pieces that broke of went down into the cooling fluid passage way. To prevent this one could cut a small piece of a cotton rag and gently stuff it down in the hole first. when the old threat has come out you pull the small piece of cotton rag out with a needle tool. Do not use paper towel as it will break apart and may cause a cooling fluid passage way in the motor or radiator to get clogged. Be careful about stuffing a small piece of cotton rag into the hole of the broken of fitting, as I do not know how large the cooling fluid space beneath the threat is. You do not want it to get lost if the cooling fluid space beneath the broken of thread if the space is to large for a small piece of cotton cloth.
Thx for the tip
I didn't, finish watch. The Video I know it would,n work.In my GMC 5.7 fitting break and I use jig saw metal blade make 3 cut in 120degre dept almost to tread and chiseled it out in 2 minutes. Hi
Dealt with this once.Now I change it once a year to avoid it sticking
+V8vortec98 make sure you get one from Chevy, I have used aftermarket ones a few times and the hose does not plug in correctly
That's a wrench
I will tell you easy way use hack saw blad cut both side.and remove by long nose 👃 plyer
that is what I had to do, and hammer and a small pick between the connector and threads
Name easy out
That tool does not work, It is more than just a hammer. I bought it and it has been a nightmare.
It is not as easy as shown. Anyhow good luck to everyone.
Yes, I had the major fail as well, but mine just crumbled like chalk. I don't want to take the manifold out so I'm going to vacuum it and have a camera with a light and squiggle through the opening and see if there is much crumbs. Thanks.
What size tap do I need? !
I remember my dad dealing with this on a 5.0L.
I am happy to see the new Dorman parts are steel instead of this Brass/Aluminum fitting that came with the motor. I think my 98 K1500's 5.7L has the newer steel fitting already, but that doesn't necessarily mean it will not break. I am sure that with the steel fitting, the removal tool works better.
My question to you is: how did you clear out the debris that fell into the intake? Did you just have it spray out?
+Pete Gaytan III Blew it out with compressed air as best as I could.
You could shop vac the hole out by just affixing sone small hose with tape to the smallest vac wand you have, then just crank her up for a minute and let the coolant flow blow out as much debris as it can. You will waste some coolant.
Yeah, that tool rarely works. I have a half moon chisel that works pretty good. And I got a tap to clean out the threads. Invariably some of the loose materiel ends up in the coolant, but I've never had a problem.
I got 4 piece galvanized pipe removers, and it worked great, they are just big easy outs, try them, 4 pack, 5 bucks.
Yea that tool is useless