Thanks for sharing. I've been porting for a very long time and have found most of the power and response in the bowl and back cutting inside the opening edge. As for the measurements to the edge of the side seal, there is additional space between the rotor housing and the edge of the rotor. I determined this by assembling a rotor/stationary/housing and iron so I could see its assembled clearances. I like to keep the guess work to a minimum. Additionally, most of the squaring of the port between the opening and closing edge is meant to protect the closing end of the side seal which is equally important. Again, thanks for sharing! JCR Rotary
If you havent already, you should make a video on technique with mat removal, youre absolutely text book no scribbling just right to left layers. Thats one of the most easy ways to ruin the port/iron by just trying to remove as much as possible as quickly as possible. I think youve got the skills and knowledge to give a good tutorial video on that. Beautiful chamfering bud.
i love these videos, im a mechanic by trade but never been in an engine in this depth. I own a 91 FD, and was thinking of street porting as it requires a low compression rebuild. what i would love to see is what tools you are using, also, please assume i dont know what your engine slang means. Explain everything.
Well first, FDs are 92-02 (assuming you're not American), you probably have a 92 manufactured in 91. Second, tear the motor down first and see what's up. Low compression can mean a lot of things and it could get costly. As far as porting goes, all we use is a template, a dremel, and a carbide bit. As far as building a motor goes, that's our most requested video and we'll be making one soon!
What about an RX-8 housing, with a PP added, rectangular or square, controlled with the twin peak Ford Canada patent Reed-Valve, closing the side intake ports, and keeping the side exhaust ports? Would this keep the best of 2 worlds? Salut +
How much further up past the template and in towards the crankshaft could you mill these? Basically, is there any MORE that you can port it without doing Bridge, Peripheral, or anything that would severely lower MPG, reliability, and low end power? EDIT:: Just heard the part about porting the runner and the intake. What're the effects of those? Can it be combined with the street port for improved performance without the negative effects of PP and BP and whatnot?
Stupid question time, but a thought I had while watching. Polishing the exhaust port runners on a renesis? Seems like there'd be a benefit to preventing carbon buildup by smoothing the surface - and to reducing heat trransfer to the cooling system/iron from the exhaust, along with the reduced surface area.
Agreed that the bridge porting is the stupidest "power modification" ever for a rotary, which is already low-speed/high-load challenged and doesn't need any more problems getting a good clean air/fuel mixture into the engine. It MIGHT have some "value" in turbocharged engines, but only because its using boost and fuel/air to help overcome exhaust backpressure and maybe burn the air and fuel in the exhaust ahead of the turbo to increase exhaust gas heat and energy to "spool" the turbo better. But you're just making more boost and bypassing more of it as that happens. I'd also say that your porting is probably mainly a waste of time. You're basically opening up an area of the port that unless the rest of the port all the way back to the intake plenum is opened up similar to support and feed it, really isn't increasing flow. There might be a slight benefit by making "port closing" more gradual and controlled rather than sudden so reversion is decreased and "swirl" is increased, but other than that, what you're doing is like adding a little valve lift or duration to a stock engine that's really already limited by the INTAKE SYSTEM AHEAD OF THE VALVE. You claim the port is "much bigger" but you're not enlarging the actual "port". What you're doing is more like creating a larger valve seat and changing nothing else. Getting rid of the sharp edge might reduce the tendency of the engine to detonate and it might make seals dragged across it last longer, but otherwise its really not gaining you much. As you said, no two irons will be cast the same, and I'm guessing that template is one someone came up with using the largest factory port they came across in a factory iron and maybe from a "special" high-output factory engine or maybe a "high altitude" engine. Its also worth mentioning that ACTUALLY increasing port "size" (actual porting increases VOLUME) tends to make the fuel-air mixture "lazier". Given the design of the engine, that might benefit low-end power, but every "improvement" comes with a drawback. That's just how engines are.
The rant is long, but somewhat clueless. Extending the ports is about TIMING, not air flow. Longer duration means more air in for the same size port and intake system. Plus, it can move the power up the rev range, which is important on a motor like a Rotary because there is almost zero torque so the only way of making more power is to rev them harder. My comments are primarily about Naturally Aspirated engines, and of course forced induction is somewhat different.
Jaco Van Zyl well truth be told lmao you would be half way there cause your idling at 1200 1500 rpm. Lmao most bridge ports suffer from the gearing. Which was never intended to match the power band of a bridge port no way. If the final ratio gave it a 3500 to 4000 rpm much better acceleration and drive ability would come though it still would guzzle gas from the overlap and extra fuel delivery needed
I have a 2002 S8 RX7 and I've gone extend port and a little further down with overlap as you said not to but it goes alright. It made 509rwhp @18psi and boost comes on around 4200 to redline. I know overlap in boosted applications isn't ideal except oddly in antilag situations as evident in my big cam/turbo evo that's responsive af.. I was looking to go to a half cut Bridgeport to keep it drivable instead of a full cut bridgey but still have that pulse
what's better Bridgeport or streetport.... want lots of HP but also drive it here and there..... debating on which one to go with. what do you suggest?
Streetport has been proven to make a ton of power. Bridgeport is something I'd only recommend for a racing application. You lose a LOT of fuel efficiency with bridgeporting, gain a lot of heat, lose low end power, and some reliability. A streetport rotary will see 17-20mpg, a bridgeport sees 5-10. What you lose in normal day driveability, you can back in insane top end performance and the infectious idle people make synonymous with the rotary engine. For a streetcar application, I'd only recommend a streetport. But ultimately it's your choice.
hey i'm new at rotarys but i want to own a rx8 soon and want to learn much about it. for what are these ports? hp? turbo build? fueĺ safe? can you explain it in easy english :D much love from germany! :)
when you port the intake and exhaust it gives a faster flow of air allowing a full exchange... in high RPM the rotary cant always let all the combusted material out or completely refill with air. so by porting you are able to release all the combusted material within a shorter time and take in more air in a shorter time allowing the optimum air fuel ratio to be obtained... thus you get full burns each cycle and don't lose power.... by doing a proper street port you can gain much power... some MPG if you don't race constantly.. and even some reliability since it can now get rid of all the carbon containing exhaust materials. in all reality the street port gives this car what it should have had when it came from the factory
some of the things are right but i have to dissagree with alot you have done. what your saying about side seal isnt right. you can open up intake porting from the side a few mm from stock. and the edge where opening and closing is has to be acute angle to prevent the closing side seal not the opening.
Because the material left forms a bridge for the seal to cross. And since it's an exhaust or intake port. It became a bridged port. Or Bridgeport for short.
Thanks for sharing. I've been porting for a very long time and have found most of the power and response in the bowl and back cutting inside the opening edge. As for the measurements to the edge of the side seal, there is additional space between the rotor housing and the edge of the rotor. I determined this by assembling a rotor/stationary/housing and iron so I could see its assembled clearances. I like to keep the guess work to a minimum. Additionally, most of the squaring of the port between the opening and closing edge is meant to protect the closing end of the side seal which is equally important. Again, thanks for sharing!
JCR Rotary
That port looks amazing
Now i'm very certain I don't want to do this myself.
If you havent already, you should make a video on technique with mat removal, youre absolutely text book no scribbling just right to left layers. Thats one of the most easy ways to ruin the port/iron by just trying to remove as much as possible as quickly as possible. I think youve got the skills and knowledge to give a good tutorial video on that. Beautiful chamfering bud.
Wich Dremel is this ? And what carbides did ya use ? 1/4 1/8 etc...... Awesome work guys 👍
i love these videos, im a mechanic by trade but never been in an engine in this depth. I own a 91 FD, and was thinking of street porting as it requires a low compression rebuild. what i would love to see is what tools you are using, also, please assume i dont know what your engine slang means. Explain everything.
Well first, FDs are 92-02 (assuming you're not American), you probably have a 92 manufactured in 91.
Second, tear the motor down first and see what's up. Low compression can mean a lot of things and it could get costly. As far as porting goes, all we use is a template, a dremel, and a carbide bit.
As far as building a motor goes, that's our most requested video and we'll be making one soon!
Lmao, I love these videos and the most I've done is change the struts on my chevy sonic 🥴 a boy can dream
What are the power gains with stock parts? And with full exhaust/ intake/carb?
What about an RX-8 housing, with a PP added, rectangular or square, controlled with the twin peak Ford Canada patent Reed-Valve, closing the side intake ports, and keeping the side exhaust ports?
Would this keep the best of 2 worlds? Salut +
How much further up past the template and in towards the crankshaft could you mill these? Basically, is there any MORE that you can port it without doing Bridge, Peripheral, or anything that would severely lower MPG, reliability, and low end power?
EDIT:: Just heard the part about porting the runner and the intake. What're the effects of those? Can it be combined with the street port for improved performance without the negative effects of PP and BP and whatnot?
focus game on point
right? Its actually driving me insane :$
Stupid question time, but a thought I had while watching.
Polishing the exhaust port runners on a renesis?
Seems like there'd be a benefit to preventing carbon buildup by smoothing the surface - and to reducing heat trransfer to the cooling system/iron from the exhaust, along with the reduced surface area.
@@scramble7673 that's true for intake ports but he is referring to the exhaust. Polishing that will be good for reduced carbon build up.
Thanks for the vid. Am I right in thinking the old 12A (R2?) side housing has the biggest port to start with?
Cosmo has the biggest then y plate 12as with the tall ports
Agreed that the bridge porting is the stupidest "power modification" ever for a rotary, which is already low-speed/high-load challenged and doesn't need any more problems getting a good clean air/fuel mixture into the engine. It MIGHT have some "value" in turbocharged engines, but only because its using boost and fuel/air to help overcome exhaust backpressure and maybe burn the air and fuel in the exhaust ahead of the turbo to increase exhaust gas heat and energy to "spool" the turbo better. But you're just making more boost and bypassing more of it as that happens.
I'd also say that your porting is probably mainly a waste of time. You're basically opening up an area of the port that unless the rest of the port all the way back to the intake plenum is opened up similar to support and feed it, really isn't increasing flow. There might be a slight benefit by making "port closing" more gradual and controlled rather than sudden so reversion is decreased and "swirl" is increased, but other than that, what you're doing is like adding a little valve lift or duration to a stock engine that's really already limited by the INTAKE SYSTEM AHEAD OF THE VALVE.
You claim the port is "much bigger" but you're not enlarging the actual "port". What you're doing is more like creating a larger valve seat and changing nothing else. Getting rid of the sharp edge might reduce the tendency of the engine to detonate and it might make seals dragged across it last longer, but otherwise its really not gaining you much.
As you said, no two irons will be cast the same, and I'm guessing that template is one someone came up with using the largest factory port they came across in a factory iron and maybe from a "special" high-output factory engine or maybe a "high altitude" engine. Its also worth mentioning that ACTUALLY increasing port "size" (actual porting increases VOLUME) tends to make the fuel-air mixture "lazier". Given the design of the engine, that might benefit low-end power, but every "improvement" comes with a drawback. That's just how engines are.
The rant is long, but somewhat clueless. Extending the ports is about TIMING, not air flow. Longer duration means more air in for the same size port and intake system. Plus, it can move the power up the rev range, which is important on a motor like a Rotary because there is almost zero torque so the only way of making more power is to rev them harder.
My comments are primarily about Naturally Aspirated engines, and of course forced induction is somewhat different.
yes i dont want power at 3000 rpm
Jaco Van Zyl well truth be told lmao you would be half way there cause your idling at 1200 1500 rpm. Lmao most bridge ports suffer from the gearing. Which was never intended to match the power band of a bridge port no way. If the final ratio gave it a 3500 to 4000 rpm much better acceleration and drive ability would come though it still would guzzle gas from the overlap and extra fuel delivery needed
👍👍👍👍
How much is the average engine life expectancy reduced when doing this street port? On either turbo or non-turbo FC
I have a 2002 S8 RX7 and I've gone extend port and a little further down with overlap as you said not to but it goes alright. It made 509rwhp @18psi and boost comes on around 4200 to redline. I know overlap in boosted applications isn't ideal except oddly in antilag situations as evident in my big cam/turbo evo that's responsive af.. I was looking to go to a half cut Bridgeport to keep it drivable instead of a full cut bridgey but still have that pulse
what's better Bridgeport or streetport.... want lots of HP but also drive it here and there..... debating on which one to go with. what do you suggest?
Streetport has been proven to make a ton of power. Bridgeport is something I'd only recommend for a racing application. You lose a LOT of fuel efficiency with bridgeporting, gain a lot of heat, lose low end power, and some reliability. A streetport rotary will see 17-20mpg, a bridgeport sees 5-10. What you lose in normal day driveability, you can back in insane top end performance and the infectious idle people make synonymous with the rotary engine.
For a streetcar application, I'd only recommend a streetport. But ultimately it's your choice.
You got any figures for PP ?
Rotors Magazine thanks for the info!!
What about an extended port? Doesn't that also give you the brap and isn't as aggressive as a bridgeport
The best is a turbo with fuel injection. Less noise, more power, less porting needed, cheaper than setting up carburettors.
Any ideas where a new RX-7 owner can go in the Southeastern Wisconsin area for engine and tuning work???
A year late but theres elite rotary in the chicagoland area not too far in from the kenosha boarder
What if i want power and braps??
Is anyone still selling 12a housings? Isn't it not produced anymore?
hey i'm new at rotarys but i want to own a rx8 soon and want to learn much about it. for what are these ports? hp? turbo build? fueĺ safe? can you explain it in easy english :D much love from germany! :)
BuLLPerformance hello 😊 im not a rotary expert but when you port the housings you get more flow through the engine.
when you port the intake and exhaust it gives a faster flow of air allowing a full exchange... in high RPM the rotary cant always let all the combusted material out or completely refill with air. so by porting you are able to release all the combusted material within a shorter time and take in more air in a shorter time allowing the optimum air fuel ratio to be obtained... thus you get full burns each cycle and don't lose power.... by doing a proper street port you can gain much power... some MPG if you don't race constantly.. and even some reliability since it can now get rid of all the carbon containing exhaust materials.
in all reality the street port gives this car what it should have had when it came from the factory
Doing ports on rotary is like changing camshafts on a piston cars
what is the best port you can use
As with anything car related, it depends. What's the purpose of the car and what kind of driveability and practicality do you want.
lengthening the port causes it stay open longer, allowing less time for compression to build. isn't that going to reduce torque?
twcaldwell1951 reduces torque but increases top end power
How much port until a new ecu is needed?
James Annis great question? I’ve heard of Bridgeport’s getting away with stock eco. Any input anybody?
i would run a micro tech stand alone unit past a street port
So... how much would it cost to send in my irons and pay to have this done for me. I cant do something this precise
250 to 400 tops
i heard a honda at 7:56
some of the things are right but i have to dissagree with alot you have done. what your saying about side seal isnt right. you can open up intake porting from the side a few mm from stock. and the edge where opening and closing is has to be acute angle to prevent the closing side seal not the opening.
Mazdatrix did my race motors.
Guess if you're using a Jiffy and not a scribe that it's not rocket science we're working with here and therefore not precise measurements?
Hello, I'm looking for torque specs and tightening procedure for the 18 block bolts for a 6 port 13b renesis engine. Thanks!
Considering your UA-cam name, it is absolutely frightening that you are asking this.
Buy a fucking Service Manual, sheesh.
hmmmm i wonder if i could street port and bridge port a rotary at the same time :troll:
is that mazdatrix template good for a renesis? or only the Wankel?
carbineZDH1 the renesis is a wankel like how a 2jz is an inline 6
lol
Lmfao
Why is it called a "Bridgeport" because it was originally done on Bridgeport milling machine?
Fox I always assumed it was due to the "bridge" that it leaves between original and additional ports.
Jack G. F that's it ^
Because the material left forms a bridge for the seal to cross. And since it's an exhaust or intake port. It became a bridged port. Or Bridgeport for short.
Is that template still available? I couldn't find it on their web site
13:44 “ this pacific engine “ ?
I didn’t know rotaries were oceans
#ResearchFlatEarth
#ResearchFlatEarth
#ResearchFlatEarth
#ResearchFlatEarth
STAY CLINT I have and it is
RAMSEY THE TRUTH BROZ
Good man :)