From a Machinist with 45 years experience, I am impressed with your hand work grinding a single face tapered edge. Excellent hand/eye co-ordination to get the same angle every pass. I raise my glass to you Sir.
Getting ready to make my first scandi bushcraft, and the grind is very much the most intimidating part, but i think your tips and instructions will hopefully help me through it to come out with a clean usable blade! Thanks.
Some of the best Knife making videos on the net. You have a great way of explaining and teaching. very clear, lots of thorough detail and small tips that really make the process go smoother. Great job and thanks Stuart.
I dont think he really explained anything.I was looking for something along the lines of "how" you deal with each side to get them to a point. Obviously one would need to grind each side evenly until the edges meet but was looking for tips or best practices to getting there. The important bits were sped up. :-(
So you mean a zero degree bevel on the secondary bevel. Which just means no secondary bevel. I'm not sure what the benefit would be for that. That just makes it take longer to sharpen it the next time because you're constantly having to grind the entire width of the primary bevel.
I love your vids, Stuart! It's been a long time since I've done a Scandi grind and I used a jig back when I did. IMHO, I really shows a good amount skill to be able to free hand grind a consistent, zero-ground Scandi grind. As always thanks for sharing. I may not always leave a comment, but I do always watch and enjoy your vids! 👍
Fantastic video. Im so jealous. I could do this for a hundred years and I wouldnt be half as good as you Stuart ! Great work. Thanks for sharing and imparting your knowledge !
Greetings from Scandinavia... :) What a great video... And what beautiful knives you make... Really impressive... Really talented... I read all the comments, about the Scandi grind... One could argue, that if a knife with a Scandi grind, benefits from a secondary bevel, then, the primary bevel, is not right... That is, "not right for the job"... If the Smith has chosen the right angle, to the customers needs, then a "zero degree bevel", as in "no secondary bevel" is absolutely the best... Then the only question is, should the edge be polished, or left "rather coarse"... Also that depends on the job... Being from Denmark, I grew up, with the Scandi grind, and learned how it should be sharpened the traditional way... In those days, no privates used a belt grinder... A wet stone, coarse and fine, was what was used... One Comentator describes: Make the full grind on the coarse side, and then with only a few strokes on the fine, "in a 7 degree wider angle", so only the very edge is "honed"... So, you can not SEE, a "secondary bevel"... Visibly, it has a "zero degree, secondary bevel" It seems clear the facory smiths do just that... Except they may polish after the coarse grind, to make it smoother, before the final touch of the edge... From that point, a sharpening steel, will make it even sharper... The facory smiths, make them very sharp, but, not as sharp as possible, "for all jobs"... They hope to please the majority, by that choise... Yes I learned it from childhood, but the even more important lesson was... DO NOT grind it... Not, until after having used "sharpening steel", which only RESHAPE the edge, to a straight edge, without removing any material... many times... Many times... In fact, many private users have never used a stone... Ofcause the butchers and hunters and skinners and wood carvers, had to learn to grind... And most found it very easy... But... You have to be ready to "destroy the factory look"... Many find that a mental barrier, so they will rather make a "neat secondary bevel"... Well... That is OK, if you WANT that new angle... You decide...!!! The wood carvers also make a Scandi grind on their tools... But the angle of the grind, is carefully chosen, for the job... If you study the Laplander large knives, of which the male version has about 21-24 cm long blades, about 4 cm wide, and often about 3mm thick, then you learn, they were originally 5 mm thick... Ofcause the angle "you chose for your Scandi Grind", should fit the job, and should be the same, no matter how thick the blade is... That gives a wider grind, on the thicker blade... Now... The Large "Finn Knife" / Laplander Large Knife, has a unique feature, as the width of the grind, is actually redused, near the tip, so, if it was 1 cm wide all along the straight edge, then, where it stars to bend, the grind is made gradually more narrow, to be only about 6 mm, at the point... But the blade has the exact same thickness, so the fact is, the angle is changed... So at the point, the edge is about 30 degrees.... THAT, is an edge, wich will hold, even when DRILLING holes in woods... Those measures, are from a 3mm thich blade... The Sami People, use the part of the blade, which is suited for the job... I believe that is relevant to some of the comments... The traditional Scandigrind, has the correct angle allready, so for "normal use", a secondary bevel, will make it less sharp, than fresh from the factory grinders... And on a flat wetstone, most can make a perfectly fine grind, just by doing, what Stuart shows... ... But on a belt grinder, only masters, like you, Stuart, can avoid cutting the belt, by the sligtest mistake... I, certainly can not... :( So, personally, on a beltgrinder, I turn the sharp side down, to fully avoid that, and then take the last steps to remove the burrs, on a stone... At a 5 degree wider angle... Best Regards, Dan...
Thanks for that Dan. It's nice to have an insiders opinion. I only know what I learned from books and UA-cam and adapt the best I can. Thanks for watching.
Great video. As a former boner in a meatworks I can say that this is a good way to sharpen a knife for meat removal or skinning. We would put the blade flat on the coarse side of the stone and create a zero bevel then raise the blade 7 degrees for 2 or 3 strokes on the fine side. This would last for 4 hours of work with 'steeling' and then we'd do the same again. Our knives were made of very hard steel (Swiss or German) no flex test for these babys. They didn't last long.
Steve Phillips - that's interesting, I would think a full flat or full height convex would be preferable. But I've only skinned/processed game a few times in my life.
Just change the titel to "single bevel grinding " and this discussion will be a thing of the past. All people commenting know exactly what you meant. :)
I started making knives about 6 months ago. The designs and blanks I made are in my opinion, not too bad. My bevels however look like a spaghetti dinner. Lol. Your grinding skills equal legendary. Is that just straight up feel and practice? I should also mention I’m using a Porter Cable 4x36. Not great I know but I’m just starting. Anyone have any grinding tips so I don’t waste anymore steel? 😬
4×36 sander arent usually too well suited to knife making. If money is an issue, id reccomend getting a 1x30. Theyre cheap, small, and work a little slow but quite well.
You slept through trig eh? What you describe here is NOT a "zero degree bevel". This is a double bevel grind, utilizing only a primary bevel on each side. It differs from other double bevels in that it forgoes the normal primary/secondary bevel per side of most double bevel knives. It's known as a Scandi grind or Scandi bevel. You should remove this vid. It's just so terribly wrong, "zero degree" bevel. Just wrong.
From a fellow Saffer, nice job! You explained the concept well and made the entire process easy to comprehend; although, I'm sure it would be extremely difficult for the unskilled to replicate. And, that blade is gorgeous! Well played!
I get really annoyed when makers say it’s a scandi grind but you can clearly see a secondary bevel With a secondary bevel on a scandi it won’t be long until you start getting into some very thick steel while sharpening A scandi grind has no microbevel!!! A scandi has two flat plains that meet to form a cutting edge, that’s it. Otherwise it’s a microbevel knife
MISTER AGB you can't unfortunately. However if you stone it quite fine the finish is still very attractive . Also these knives are work horses so finish is not a priority
My God you are talented man! every time you changed grit and "flat" touched the blade to the wheel , my sphinkter balled up in my belly and I had to run out to the shop and hide in the corner with a dull butter knife for comfort! Nice work Bladesmith! G>
Just subscribed like your channel. I do have a question though. When you get to the final grit I believe you used a Trizac A35 (around 800G) how do you finish sharpen blade? Do you use stones or just strop?
With that edge being around 13 degrees give or take, one would expect it to fail the brass rod test with much less pressure than a typical knife edge. How many pounds of pressure would you expect it to handle? (I noticed you put about 40+ pounds on the 'normal' knife in that other vid).
To be honest I'm not certain. The edge is very fine and not suited to some heavier chores but should still pass the test to avoid chipping. If I recall correctly I applied similar pressure as i did with previous tests though I do confess less pressure is needed to achieve a flex.
I am very impressed at uour skill level. Very nice work. Beautiful knife blade. The tip on "dulling" the edge between grades of belts is new to me, and sound advise. Thank you, much appreciated.
Zero degree is a erm used to describe a blade with no secondary edge bevel. Yes, if you were to put it under a microscope you would eventially see a secondary bevel which forms the cutting edge. You are technically correct. Thanks for watching
Do fixed angle sharpeners , for example the Edge pro, Hapstone, and wicked edge allow for zero Scandi sharpening and mirror polishing the entire bevel ?
First time I've seen the flex test. Thanks. By zero degree you mean that you are not putting a secondary steeper bevel on your edge. You could still characterize your final bevel angle, which cannot be zero degrees. It might be just ten degrees which still seems remarkable to me. I've come to enjoy steep edged blades, but they can't do the fine stuff that yours can. cutting pine end grain probably is real sweet with that knife. I doubt if you would last long in dry hardwood with that blade though.
Mattis Sloyd a scandi grind is a zero bevel. I do explain in the video the difference between conventional knife edges that are sharpened with a secondary bevel forming the edge. A zero bevel favours a shorter primary bevel whose two surfaces meet to for a cutting edge. There is no secondary edge to sharpen hence 'zero' degree bevel. I hope that helps. Thanks for watching
Why not design a sheath that puts a razor edge on zero beveled blades? Micro dimond disk that traveled down the blade that is battery powered or solar powered and market it to hunters and survival individuals? ; )
Zero degrees? If you have, say 15 degrees on one side and 15 on the other that makes 30 degrees. Any knife has to have the edges meet to be sharp. More Brit BS.
yoir videos have helped me so much i just started forging knives last july and your videos by far are the best i really appreciate it MARK take care be safe
You grind line are perfect! How your knife holds of your tool to grind the flat of it? Are there magnent ? They need to be strong ? I wish I could grind perfect like like you! Need more practice !
You are saying 'puko' and that's not even a Finnish word. The two same vowels and the two same consonants in puukko is pronounced as a long sound, puuuukkkkko :)
That is a zero grind and it has actually an angel and that is not a zero degree angel! There is no such thing as a zero degree angel or a bevel! If there is a degree to it, it has to be a number greater that 0!
Great work pal. are u south african. i am south african an would like to get in contact with u if u are. as that i want to take mu knife making further.
Is that not a scandi grind? I don't know anything about grinds other then the two I have are scandi and that's what they look like. Great video thanks for sharing
Stuart Smith Great I have been watching knife and blade making videos for a few years now, and now finding a fellow South African who is a knife maker.
Marcel Marais we're not alone. I am chairman of SABA the southern African Bladeamiths association. There are dozens of bladeamiths and hundreds of knifemakers here in SA.
Stuart Smith ok wow that is awesome. I am not living in South Africa now but when i move back i would like to get in to knife making. Do you have any suggestions on what equipment I should get first for making Damascus. I have the basics because I am a welder by trade.
You can easily still grind the edge back using either a grinder or even a sharpening stone and then simply add a secondary bevel at the proper angle for what you want to use it for. About 20 degrees per side is generally good for a Bowie sized blade. 👍
Woermer it's hard to say. It all depends on ht and tempering. I knife will stay sharper for longer at a low temper but risk chipping. However it will be tougher at a higher temper but won't hold an edge very long. We always try our best to balance the two to optimise the edge retention. It also depends on what you are cutting . But keeping a blade around 60rc after a temper is a good rule of thumb for good edge retention.
In all honesty I don't know the exact angle of the bevels I sharpen. I generally fo what I think is best for the intended use for the knife. For something so thin I would probably say 15deg
From a Machinist with 45 years experience, I am impressed with your hand work grinding a single face tapered edge.
Excellent hand/eye co-ordination to get the same angle every pass. I raise my glass to you Sir.
Getting ready to make my first scandi bushcraft, and the grind is very much the most intimidating part, but i think your tips and instructions will hopefully help me through it to come out with a clean usable blade! Thanks.
Glad I could help
I couldn't place you accent for like 5 seconds when I realised south african!!!! Nice to see a fellow who also does knifemaking
Well done, Stuart! It was fun to watch you working.
Excellent stuff beautiful touch with the brass rod
A man who knows his business 👌💪👍
Absolutely awesome. A very informative video :) Even if I'm not a knifemaker. Would really like to own a knife of your making.
That'll cut a week into nine days!
Some of the best Knife making videos on the net. You have a great way of explaining and teaching. very clear, lots of thorough detail and small tips that really make the process go smoother. Great job and thanks Stuart.
I dont think he really explained anything.I was looking for something along the lines of "how" you deal with each side to get them to a point. Obviously one would need to grind each side evenly until the edges meet but was looking for tips or best practices to getting there. The important bits were sped up. :-(
at about 2:38 I explain the procedure. If there is anything you missed I'd be happy to explain.
Thanks heaps mate..... really enjoy and benefit from your vids!
Dude I thought you might be a saffa for a bit then saw the creme soda bottles and knew for sure :D
Love your videos.
So you mean a zero degree bevel on the secondary bevel. Which just means no secondary bevel. I'm not sure what the benefit would be for that. That just makes it take longer to sharpen it the next time because you're constantly having to grind the entire width of the primary bevel.
Exactly! You sharpen both flats until they form an edge
That’s a scandi
A scandi does not have a microbevel
Grinding skill level = wizard
I wish I had a good hand like yours. I still use the jig...
Great video!
Should you demagnetize the blade after using the magnetic handle?
Another name for that type of grind is a scandi grind
you are correct sir!
I have never heard it called a zero degree bevel
That's what I was thinking. I was going so what's the difference between this and a full scandi grind.
Scandi grind is the only acceptable name for this grind.
kapitanbomba1989 zero micro bevel grind would be accurate and acceptable.
I love your vids, Stuart! It's been a long time since I've done a Scandi grind and I used a jig back when I did. IMHO, I really shows a good amount skill to be able to free hand grind a consistent, zero-ground Scandi grind. As always thanks for sharing. I may not always leave a comment, but I do always watch and enjoy your vids! 👍
Fantastic video. Im so jealous. I could do this for a hundred years and I wouldnt be half as good as you Stuart ! Great work. Thanks for sharing and imparting your knowledge !
Greetings from Scandinavia... :)
What a great video... And what beautiful knives you make... Really impressive... Really talented...
I read all the comments, about the Scandi grind...
One could argue, that if a knife with a Scandi grind, benefits from a secondary bevel,
then, the primary bevel, is not right... That is, "not right for the job"...
If the Smith has chosen the right angle, to the customers needs,
then a "zero degree bevel", as in "no secondary bevel" is absolutely the best...
Then the only question is, should the edge be polished, or left "rather coarse"...
Also that depends on the job...
Being from Denmark, I grew up, with the Scandi grind, and learned how it should be sharpened
the traditional way...
In those days, no privates used a belt grinder... A wet stone, coarse and fine, was what was used...
One Comentator describes: Make the full grind on the coarse side,
and then with only a few strokes on the fine, "in a 7 degree wider angle", so only the very edge is "honed"...
So, you can not SEE, a "secondary bevel"... Visibly, it has a "zero degree, secondary bevel"
It seems clear the facory smiths do just that... Except they may polish after the coarse grind, to make it smoother,
before the final touch of the edge...
From that point, a sharpening steel, will make it even sharper...
The facory smiths, make them very sharp, but, not as sharp as possible, "for all jobs"...
They hope to please the majority, by that choise...
Yes I learned it from childhood, but the even more important lesson was... DO NOT grind it...
Not, until after having used "sharpening steel", which only RESHAPE the edge, to a straight edge,
without removing any material... many times... Many times...
In fact, many private users have never used a stone...
Ofcause the butchers and hunters and skinners and wood carvers, had to learn to grind...
And most found it very easy... But... You have to be ready to "destroy the factory look"...
Many find that a mental barrier, so they will rather make a "neat secondary bevel"...
Well... That is OK, if you WANT that new angle... You decide...!!!
The wood carvers also make a Scandi grind on their tools...
But the angle of the grind, is carefully chosen, for the job...
If you study the Laplander large knives, of which the male version has about 21-24 cm long blades,
about 4 cm wide, and often about 3mm thick, then you learn, they were originally 5 mm thick...
Ofcause the angle "you chose for your Scandi Grind", should fit the job,
and should be the same, no matter how thick the blade is...
That gives a wider grind, on the thicker blade...
Now... The Large "Finn Knife" / Laplander Large Knife, has a unique feature,
as the width of the grind, is actually redused, near the tip,
so, if it was 1 cm wide all along the straight edge,
then, where it stars to bend, the grind is made gradually more narrow,
to be only about 6 mm, at the point...
But the blade has the exact same thickness, so the fact is, the angle is changed...
So at the point, the edge is about 30 degrees....
THAT, is an edge, wich will hold, even when DRILLING holes in woods...
Those measures, are from a 3mm thich blade...
The Sami People, use the part of the blade, which is suited for the job...
I believe that is relevant to some of the comments...
The traditional Scandigrind, has the correct angle allready, so for "normal use",
a secondary bevel, will make it less sharp, than fresh from the factory grinders...
And on a flat wetstone, most can make a perfectly fine grind, just by doing,
what Stuart shows...
... But on a belt grinder, only masters, like you, Stuart, can avoid cutting the belt, by the sligtest mistake...
I, certainly can not... :(
So, personally, on a beltgrinder, I turn the sharp side down, to fully avoid that,
and then take the last steps to remove the burrs, on a stone... At a 5 degree wider angle...
Best Regards, Dan...
Thanks for that Dan. It's nice to have an insiders opinion. I only know what I learned from books and UA-cam and adapt the best I can. Thanks for watching.
Great video.
As a former boner in a meatworks I can say that this is a good way to sharpen a knife for meat removal or skinning.
We would put the blade flat on the coarse side of the stone and create a zero bevel then raise the blade 7 degrees for 2 or 3 strokes on the fine side.
This would last for 4 hours of work with 'steeling' and then we'd do the same again.
Our knives were made of very hard steel (Swiss or German) no flex test for these babys.
They didn't last long.
"Boner". What an awesome title.
Steve Phillips - that's interesting, I would think a full flat or full height convex would be preferable. But I've only skinned/processed game a few times in my life.
Just change the titel to "single bevel grinding " and this discussion will be a thing of the past. All people commenting know exactly what you meant. :)
HoutmeyersP did you watch my live broadcast on fb last night perchance. I discussed the very thing.
Yes , i have seen your live video. Keep them coming they are filled with usefull info. Goeiedag nog Stuart !
Commonly known as the Scandi grind..
Neanderthal Outdoors the bevel isn’t rounded on a scandi grind.
Spectacular!! Thank you for sharing. Only sharp knives are interesting.
Great video, I better understand zero bevel now...
Zero degree there would be no knife left?! xD
ha ha exactly
LE-Handmade knives But being that sharp it would be splitting molecules, not cutting
1000 degrees Celsius hot knife with 0 degrees sharpening angle
Eduard Sergeev You could've wrote 1000°C.
A more accurate description would be no micro bevel grind
great detail very profesional thank you
nicely done!
AWESOME ................. !!!
I started making knives about 6 months ago. The designs and blanks I made are in my opinion, not too bad. My bevels however look like a spaghetti dinner. Lol. Your grinding skills equal legendary. Is that just straight up feel and practice? I should also mention I’m using a Porter Cable 4x36. Not great I know but I’m just starting. Anyone have any grinding tips so I don’t waste anymore steel? 😬
Grining is all down to practice. There's no short cuts. The more you grind the better you'll get. Good luck.
4×36 sander arent usually too well suited to knife making. If money is an issue, id reccomend getting a 1x30. Theyre cheap, small, and work a little slow but quite well.
Thanks for this work, I'm gonna attempt one of these soon! Keep it up and cool shirt
You slept through trig eh? What you describe here is NOT a "zero degree bevel". This is a double bevel grind, utilizing only a primary bevel on each side. It differs from other double bevels in that it forgoes the normal primary/secondary bevel per side of most double bevel knives. It's known as a Scandi grind or Scandi bevel.
You should remove this vid. It's just so terribly wrong, "zero degree" bevel. Just wrong.
From a fellow Saffer, nice job!
You explained the concept well and made the entire process easy to comprehend; although, I'm sure it would be extremely difficult for the unskilled to replicate.
And, that blade is gorgeous! Well played!
I get really annoyed when makers say it’s a scandi grind but you can clearly see a secondary bevel
With a secondary bevel on a scandi it won’t be long until you start getting into some very thick steel while sharpening
A scandi grind has no microbevel!!!
A scandi has two flat plains that meet to form a cutting edge, that’s it.
Otherwise it’s a microbevel knife
200 through 230...
How many generations are in there?...
Thank you for the post of the subject in any case.
-b,
Awesome video buddy. Nice grinder you have there did you make it yourself? 👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼
I bought it from a local supplier of knife making machines
Flawless scandi brother! Thanks for the video
Subbed! Thanks for the video!
Awesome job. First time I’m your channel. I’m going to be watching much more!
Jason Vassallo thanks
How do you sharpen a 0 degree beveled knife without messing up the finish?
MISTER AGB you can't unfortunately. However if you stone it quite fine the finish is still very attractive . Also these knives are work horses so finish is not a priority
thank you very much. very helpful.
love the shirt
My God you are talented man! every time you changed grit and "flat" touched the blade to the wheel , my sphinkter balled up in my belly and I had to run out to the shop and hide in the corner with a dull butter knife for comfort! Nice work Bladesmith! G>
Lol
Just subscribed like your channel. I do have a question though. When you get to the final grit I believe you used a Trizac A35 (around 800G) how do you finish sharpen blade? Do you use stones or just strop?
Stephen Ranti for using puukkos I leave it at the A30 then strop. If a collector want a meager finish I will hand sand to 1200 grit then strop again
Thanks for the help!!
You have better luck with those trizac belts than I do. I am pretty much just using the solid face ceramics now.
Good job by free hand....
With that edge being around 13 degrees give or take, one would expect it to fail the brass rod test with much less pressure than a typical knife edge. How many pounds of pressure would you expect it to handle? (I noticed you put about 40+ pounds on the 'normal' knife in that other vid).
To be honest I'm not certain. The edge is very fine and not suited to some heavier chores but should still pass the test to avoid chipping. If I recall correctly I applied similar pressure as i did with previous tests though I do confess less pressure is needed to achieve a flex.
I like the technique with the magnet. I'm sure everybody else already knew all about that.
Doesn't that undo what you just did when you touch it perpendicular?
Very nice. I have learned something new.
Is that a magnetic guide? Cool
Man everytime I grind my flats I end up ruining my nice grind line. I’m getting frustrated. Great video subbed
maybe uneven platten?
Wil you know it very well could be. Gonna check that out. Thanks
I am very impressed at uour skill level. Very nice work. Beautiful knife blade.
The tip on "dulling" the edge between grades of belts is new to me, and sound advise. Thank you, much appreciated.
So is this before or after heat treating?
Thanks man, very interesting :)
Very straight forward! Nice.
Ja well no fine.
Naught my bru.
How do I sharpen my axe so I'm able to shave my crotch?
while i really learn a lot from your channel, just FYI, there is no such thing a zero degree bevel, it's physically not possible.
Zero degree is a erm used to describe a blade with no secondary edge bevel. Yes, if you were to put it under a microscope you would eventially see a secondary bevel which forms the cutting edge. You are technically correct. Thanks for watching
Do fixed angle sharpeners , for example the Edge pro, Hapstone, and wicked edge allow for zero Scandi sharpening and mirror polishing the entire bevel ?
First time I've seen the flex test. Thanks. By zero degree you mean that you are not putting a secondary steeper bevel on your edge. You could still characterize your final bevel angle, which cannot be zero degrees. It might be just ten degrees which still seems remarkable to me. I've come to enjoy steep edged blades, but they can't do the fine stuff that yours can. cutting pine end grain probably is real sweet with that knife. I doubt if you would last long in dry hardwood with that blade though.
Can someone explain what a zero bevel is? This looks like a scandi grind to me
Mattis Sloyd a scandi grind is a zero bevel. I do explain in the video the difference between conventional knife edges that are sharpened with a secondary bevel forming the edge. A zero bevel favours a shorter primary bevel whose two surfaces meet to for a cutting edge. There is no secondary edge to sharpen hence 'zero' degree bevel. I hope that helps. Thanks for watching
Got it, thanks for enlightening me!
Awesome stuff man, what’s that thing you used to do the flats?
Why not design a sheath that puts a razor edge on zero beveled blades? Micro dimond disk that traveled down the blade that is battery powered or solar powered and market it to hunters and survival individuals? ; )
That's the first thing I do when I get a new knife,though I finish mine with oil stones.
Same here.
Do you do many Mora's with the 0 degree bevel and if so how much would you charge and I want it sent to Australia...
I only make my designs, all inspired by a variety of finnish makers. Basic Puukko from me would be AUS$180 and AUS$30 shipping
Zero degrees? If you have, say 15 degrees on one side and 15 on the other that makes 30 degrees. Any knife has to have the edges meet to be sharp. More Brit BS.
easy peasy... but sharpening that grind not so easy.
Easy peasy 😂
Idiot
yoir videos have helped me so much i just started forging knives last july and your videos by far are the best i really appreciate it MARK take care be safe
Thanks again man.
Since the blade are not full tang can i baton with the knive
probably
You grind line are perfect! How your knife holds of your tool to grind the flat of it? Are there magnent ? They need to be strong ? I wish I could grind perfect like like you! Need more practice !
It's all free hand grinding. I don't use any jigs other than a magnet to do the flats. It's just practice and a steady hand.
Woooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooow!!!!!
Wouldn't this make sharpening a knife impossible without fully re-beveling the blade?
Nice "Important shit" board
You are saying 'puko' and that's not even a Finnish word. The two same vowels and the two same consonants in puukko is pronounced as a long sound, puuuukkkkko :)
Thanks, excellent teaching video but the fast paced music is distracting.
If it's a single bevel, why call it something else, such as a 'zero degree' bevel?
You're not wrong.
That is a zero grind and it has actually an angel and that is not a zero degree angel! There is no such thing as a zero degree angel or a bevel! If there is a degree to it, it has to be a number greater that 0!
Could have been a great video until the music and editing started then you lost me. Sorry 👎
sadly I'm a knife maker not a video editor. Thanks anyway for trying to watch
Thankyou for the knowledge
Great work pal. are u south african. i am south african an would like to get in contact with u if u are. as that i want to take mu knife making further.
How much is it??
Very nice.
warum stehen bei diesen typ... locker 100 leere flaschen auf dem schrank?!? xD omg
Whoahh..
Little less talk alot more action
I learned more in that 8:16 than in all the other knife videos that I've seen combined!
does it help to have a big belly?
Why the empty coka bottles?
Do you remove the scale on the tang before gluing the handle on?
It's makes little difference. In fact the rough scale may provide better purchase for the epoxy.
Is that not a scandi grind? I don't know anything about grinds other then the two I have are scandi and that's what they look like. Great video thanks for sharing
Essentially the same thing yes
Stuart Smith thanks for the reply.
How to make the knife rust
AMIGO EXCELENTE EL FILO DE ESA HOJA SALUDOS
Great job.
Zero degree bevel?.....isn't that kinda like dehydrated water?
The degree of the second bevel: zero, because there isn't one. I think that's the angle they are looking at it. I call it a Scandi grind.
please, traduction in spanish....thank you.
Hi thanks for the video. Just one question, are you by any chance a South African?
Marcel Marais I am indeed
Stuart Smith Great I have been watching knife and blade making videos for a few years now, and now finding a fellow South African who is a knife maker.
Marcel Marais we're not alone. I am chairman of SABA the southern African Bladeamiths association. There are dozens of bladeamiths and hundreds of knifemakers here in SA.
Stuart Smith ok wow that is awesome. I am not living in South Africa now but when i move back i would like to get in to knife making. Do you have any suggestions on what equipment I should get first for making Damascus. I have the basics because I am a welder by trade.
I learned the hard way that a zero bevel on a large Bowie isn't a good idea, much too fine a blade for any hard work now 😞
You can easily still grind the edge back using either a grinder or even a sharpening stone and then simply add a secondary bevel at the proper angle for what you want to use it for. About 20 degrees per side is generally good for a Bowie sized blade. 👍
gagacrazy10 yoi are correct maybe I should have mentioned that this kind of bevel is only effective on smaller knives
wow now u can cut that HUUUUGE beard !!!
great work :)
hey stuart one big question, in normal use with a relative good steel (1075 1095 or d2) ¿how long will be the knife sharp?
Woermer it's hard to say. It all depends on ht and tempering. I knife will stay sharper for longer at a low temper but risk chipping. However it will be tougher at a higher temper but won't hold an edge very long. We always try our best to balance the two to optimise the edge retention. It also depends on what you are cutting . But keeping a blade around 60rc after a temper is a good rule of thumb for good edge retention.
what's the best angel to sharpen a 3mm thick knife
In all honesty I don't know the exact angle of the bevels I sharpen. I generally fo what I think is best for the intended use for the knife. For something so thin I would probably say 15deg