First time that I have seen someone read the manual when building this kit :) Overclocking the device and replacing the voltage standards is useful endeavour. Also quite capable at measuring small inductances when used with a reference cap.
Yes, but since the small inductance function as well as cap-leak and similar neat add-ons need a firmware change, I plan to do that in the next instalment.
Another excellent HWCave video = woot! As you know, these testers have a long-standing, decent reputation within the EE hobbyist community as Go-NoGo testers. I use mine, extensively, to prove all of the components that I have gathered for a project, before assembly. I mostly use the ZIF socket, but I did build a set of test "leads." It has a single row of three header pins that sits in the ZIF socket. Each pin of this header has an individual wire for each of the three pin functions. Each individual wire is then terminated with a single header pin. The individual header pins then serve as test probes. This pigtail serve the same purpose as the additional screw terminals that you added. I need to build another lead set that has alligator clips. The tester is super-excellent, for GNG proofing, as said, and quickly determining the pinout of a component. Mine sits on my bench at the ready at all times and gets used in most every build/test session. Though I would not use it for precision work, it is a fine addition to any bench. It is a good Swiss-Army-Knife for hobbyist on a limited budget, because it has so many extra functions, such as the function generator and counter. Oh... Mine came with a clear case with a space for a battery. I replaced the battery clip with a barrel socket and power the unit from my PSU. This left room to add an additional testing circuit. I picked a Colpitt's Crystal Oscillator to be able to to drive pill-can crystals. This makes it convenient to use the frequency counter function of the tester to check oscillators.
May I ask where your accent originates from? I really like to watch your videos because I learn a whole lot about electronics and components and secondly your voice and accent are really calming and this is pure relaxation for me.
These AY-AT kits are considered the best of the clones. Changing the 7550 voltage reference is a good upgrade, and if you change it to a decent one you are best to OMIT the TL431 (the firmware ignores the TL431). Definitely try to use the best sets of input resistors (3:35) because the self calibration only calibrates based on the average values - the closer you can get the resistors, the less variation in tested values between the pins (eg: resistor between 1+2 reads the same as between 2+3). Note that the values doesn't actually matter much, since you can adjust the "expected" value in firmware... it matters much more about how they are to each other (make sense?). Oh, and for test leads, it's neater to use 2mm rather than 4mm banana jacks. EDIT: Not sure why my other (even more helpful) post was deleted. Not cool!
Thanks for the tips. I will have a look on upgrades for the kit. Regarding the test leads, I have kind of standardised on 4 mm but I can see that 2 mm may be useful here. I have not deleted any comments ever. It is possible that UA-cam does that automatically, for example if it contains links.
@@TheHWcave - Thank you for replying. For my other (deleted) comment - *could you please look* in your UA-cam Studio under _"Channel comments" > "Held For Review"_ ... and if it's sitting there, please read it then hit "Approve" ? I was sure that there was no links, it contained detailed information about the huge thread on the EEV Blog Forum, plus firmware and other helpful stuff. It was pretty long and involved, so it would be a pity to lose all the info that I added. Who knows, perhaps some word(s) I used triggered it to be blocked by UA-cam? Thanks for helping find it 🙂.
@@johncoops6897 Yes, I check for that maybe once a month (sorry, there is usually just a lot of junk there and I do have a life) . In this case nothing from you. Not sure why it got deleted. I have not set up any special filters or so
@@TheHWcave - No problem. I will try to write a new version and post as a separate comment. It was info about the massive thread on EEVblog forum, but I had to word it carefully to avoid tripping some filter and getting deleted for posting links or rude words or something. The whole UA-cam site is going to hell LOL
6:52 there is 6 pin tiny component on the left which is close to the edge and two other smd components Are they presoldered? I want to buy this tester but I can't solder smd component.
I would appreciate your comparison of these devices to the PEAK Atlas DCA75 Pro, with its USB software. That might be a lot to ask. But your thoughful and thorough analysis would be great to have. thanks!
Its a very cool device but expensive. Too expensive for me since I don't need curve tracing and similar things at the moment. Plus all the interesting functionality requires a Windows PC. I use only Linux normally and that old Windows7 laptop I sometimes use to test questionable windows software that comes with scopes or USB testers is not fit for serious or prolonged use. Who knows, maybe the situation changes... If I need that function or I get a lot more subscribers :), I might change my mind. It certainly seems a very professional piece of kit.
First time that I have seen someone read the manual when building this kit :) Overclocking the device and replacing the voltage standards is useful endeavour. Also quite capable at measuring small inductances when used with a reference cap.
Yes, but since the small inductance function as well as cap-leak and similar neat add-ons need a firmware change, I plan to do that in the next instalment.
A must have bit of equipment for any Hobbiest/professional 😊😊
Another excellent HWCave video = woot! As you know, these testers have a long-standing, decent reputation within the EE hobbyist community as Go-NoGo testers. I use mine, extensively, to prove all of the components that I have gathered for a project, before assembly. I mostly use the ZIF socket, but I did build a set of test "leads." It has a single row of three header pins that sits in the ZIF socket. Each pin of this header has an individual wire for each of the three pin functions. Each individual wire is then terminated with a single header pin. The individual header pins then serve as test probes. This pigtail serve the same purpose as the additional screw terminals that you added. I need to build another lead set that has alligator clips. The tester is super-excellent, for GNG proofing, as said, and quickly determining the pinout of a component. Mine sits on my bench at the ready at all times and gets used in most every build/test session. Though I would not use it for precision work, it is a fine addition to any bench. It is a good Swiss-Army-Knife for hobbyist on a limited budget, because it has so many extra functions, such as the function generator and counter. Oh... Mine came with a clear case with a space for a battery. I replaced the battery clip with a barrel socket and power the unit from my PSU. This left room to add an additional testing circuit. I picked a Colpitt's Crystal Oscillator to be able to to drive pill-can crystals. This makes it convenient to use the frequency counter function of the tester to check oscillators.
Thanks for sharing. I love you calling it a Swiss-Army knife. That's a perfect way of describing it.
Wonderful presentation!
May I ask where your accent originates from? I really like to watch your videos because I learn a whole lot about electronics and components and secondly your voice and accent are really calming and this is pure relaxation for me.
It sounds "verry Chairman"
These AY-AT kits are considered the best of the clones. Changing the 7550 voltage reference is a good upgrade, and if you change it to a decent one you are best to OMIT the TL431 (the firmware ignores the TL431).
Definitely try to use the best sets of input resistors (3:35) because the self calibration only calibrates based on the average values - the closer you can get the resistors, the less variation in tested values between the pins (eg: resistor between 1+2 reads the same as between 2+3).
Note that the values doesn't actually matter much, since you can adjust the "expected" value in firmware... it matters much more about how they are to each other (make sense?).
Oh, and for test leads, it's neater to use 2mm rather than 4mm banana jacks.
EDIT: Not sure why my other (even more helpful) post was deleted. Not cool!
Thanks for the tips. I will have a look on upgrades for the kit. Regarding the test leads, I have kind of standardised on 4 mm but I can see that 2 mm may be useful here. I have not deleted any comments ever. It is possible that UA-cam does that automatically, for example if it contains links.
@@TheHWcave - Thank you for replying. For my other (deleted) comment - *could you please look* in your UA-cam Studio under _"Channel comments" > "Held For Review"_ ... and if it's sitting there, please read it then hit "Approve" ?
I was sure that there was no links, it contained detailed information about the huge thread on the EEV Blog Forum, plus firmware and other helpful stuff. It was pretty long and involved, so it would be a pity to lose all the info that I added. Who knows, perhaps some word(s) I used triggered it to be blocked by UA-cam?
Thanks for helping find it 🙂.
@@johncoops6897 Yes, I check for that maybe once a month (sorry, there is usually just a lot of junk there and I do have a life) . In this case nothing from you. Not sure why it got deleted. I have not set up any special filters or so
@@TheHWcave - No problem. I will try to write a new version and post as a separate comment. It was info about the massive thread on EEVblog forum, but I had to word it carefully to avoid tripping some filter and getting deleted for posting links or rude words or something.
The whole UA-cam site is going to hell LOL
6:52 there is 6 pin tiny component on the left which is close to the edge and two other smd components
Are they presoldered?
I want to buy this tester but I can't solder smd component.
In my kit and all I saw on the internet, these SMD components are already soldered onto the PCB when you receive the kit
@@TheHWcave Thank you.
Now I can order mine.
Proud to be first to thank you for this video.
Yes, but I gave the 1st thumbs-up! 😂 He never does half-videos. He is the best at detail!👍
I would appreciate your comparison of these devices to the PEAK Atlas DCA75 Pro, with its USB software. That might be a lot to ask. But your thoughful and thorough analysis would be great to have. thanks!
Its a very cool device but expensive. Too expensive for me since I don't need curve tracing and similar things at the moment. Plus all the interesting functionality requires a Windows PC. I use only Linux normally and that old Windows7 laptop I sometimes use to test questionable windows software that comes with scopes or USB testers is not fit for serious or prolonged use. Who knows, maybe the situation changes... If I need that function or I get a lot more subscribers :), I might change my mind. It certainly seems a very professional piece of kit.