At 11:04 it shows that the tester is not calibrated, calibration is done by shorting the three test pins together with a low ohms short, like three pin jumpers soldered together, depending on the firmware version it may then require a stable capacitor for calibration between 100nF to 1µF, preferably something like a film capacitor is used. If SamplingADC was enabled in the firmware it will also require a small capacitor around 10 to 30nF to later be used together with small inductors that could otherwise not be measured, but this can be ignored if that feature is not needed or if it was not compiled in.
Nice! I had spent hours on ebay before buying the complicated one. Even there the perspex housing needed some mods. Keep it up, we all love such gadgets!
Excellent. Thank you. I had wondered about this exact comparison. The UA-camr called "The HWCave" has a good series on improving the yellow model tester. I made his modifications and the modifications did work well. There are both hardware and software changes. Highly recommended. Also, a set of wires can make it easier to use the Yellow Tester ZIF Socket... A 3-pin header to sit in the ZIF, with clips on the ends of the wires to connect to the DUT.
I just received that new tester in the mail (after watching Diode's last video), got it, tested it, and found this video. What a coincidence! I didn't get the stupid enclosure though.
Nice comparison 🙂 I can recommend the LCR-TC2 for ~17 USD (w/o VAT). It is more like the red one you have. But it actually makes use of its colour display, and it has a case with Li-po battery. Apparently, there are different versions and I got version 2. But some that are sold as version 2 actually are version 1 ...
:D I didn't notice. I didn't take a closer look - I assumed that whoever designs a transistor tester, can draw transistor symbols properly. I was wrong...
I bought similar product from banggood some years ago, the case fits ok. I don't know if ALL later batches suffer this current fit problem or just some of them do.
The dimer display is because there are 2 serial rezistors of 250 Ohms in display power line. First is on the main board, second one is on the display module. By data sheet of display there should be one 250 Ohm from 5V . If you short rezistor on main board the brithness will be fine.
I have the yellow tester because it was the cheapest one. There are more bugs in the software, notably 2 diodes in antiparallel on pins 1 and 3 show as in antiseries (?!) but they are OK if between pins 1-2 or 2-3.
well, I also noticed this before recording the video, and then I forgot to mention it :D. Mine shows antiseries diodes too, so it has the same firmware with bugs...
@@DiodeGoneWild Did it arrive at your old address with a weirdly written house number? If so, it was a donation by me and I bought it from the same seller. My box fit well, though. The side hole lines up with the backlight connection on the PCB but I'm not sure if that's what it is for - personally, I used it to mount a switch to prevent standby discharge and reduce the screen on time after measurement.
I love these so much, I have 3 different makes and models. One can measure Zeners up to 20V. I am waiting for a version that sings "Marry had a little lamb"!
2 роки тому+4
11:07 Maybe the transistors are tested on different frequencies. Darlington pairs are usually slow at higher frequencies.
The hFE also varies with collector current, according to some datasheets... For example, the DC current gain for the DU808DFI is ~300 when the collector current reaches 1.5 amps, but decreases exponentially below or above...
I have the yellow one with the acrylic case and it fits perfectly, the display cable is very loose on your unit and flops way too forward. Also the case is supposed to come with a black 9V battery holder that sticks with a piece of double sided tape and matches the notches in the acrylic panel. No problems with the lever or button not fitting with mine, it's perfect
About the display, perhaps you can change the LED resistance by a lower one to get more brightness. These models usually have the resistance externally.
In this case, it's a design flaw: they forgot about a resistor on the display board, which is already present, and used a second resistor in series on the main board. Need to remove one of them, both are 220R.
I've got the yellow one and you are SO RIGHT about that pin layout. I wonder if the red one is more accurate because it has more up-to-date firmware or better quality components???? These units have their flaws but they're still a brilliant addition to your workbench.
Well, it looks like I have a slightly updated version of the acrylic case, because on mine: the socket lever is not hitting it, the button's hole is actually at the right spot and I was able to assemble it without any glue at all. 🙂 Of course, the simpler (yellow) tester shows a lot less information, but basic component identification is enough for me - at least it labels all component legs which is useful. 🙂
Very nice comparison. I have the model on the right with BW-display. The other one seems to have more information and could be a bit more accurate on the readings in some cases. Keep in mind the error can be anything between 2 or 25% or even more...
The 640 and 470K resistor banks are spec'd at 0.1% in the original Markus design. I don't see that on any cheap knock-offs. Even without precision parts, it's accurate enough for hobby use.
Yeah, even most cheap passive components are very good quality wise :P Of course there are fakes and refurbs which have no QA at all and you get what you pay for...
I think they are both good with tester 1 being more more info on transistors while tester 2 is faster, more usable, has a pdf manual you can read to mod it or fix it, has a case, its firmware can be updated with arduino or ch341a bios flasher, or any spi programmer tester 2 is nothing but an arduino (Atmel/avr) chip with display , button, zif socket and little bit of componenets and code. I think it is not that hard for someone capable to make an arduino shield(add on) to accomplish same tasks.
I've got the right one (green display) and all acrylic parts fit perfectly - maybe the sender mixed the plates by mistake. Once I crashed the tester when measuring a loaded capacitor (stupid me) and instantly I ordered a new one ..because actually I'm just happy with it. For modification I did not use the acrylic plate which holds the battery in its place because it makes it difficult to change the batt, when its empty (just put some plastic in, to fix the batt). I also added a little plate of Cu-covered board on the top-side to remember and to discharge capacitors before testing. The testing-socket is fine, too - for bigger components you have to use some short cables with crocodiles anyway (you can solder them on the 3 testing-pads of the upper board ...that's it
I have the one on the right (the green display one). I am quite happy with it, it helps me a lot. However, I found a bug, when testing a small signal darlington (such as the BC516) it erroneously reports npn instead of pnp and pnp instead of npn. Be aware of that, everyone.
Mine has an even weirder pin layout where the top row is different than the bottom. It's labelled: Top: 1231232 Bottom: KAA1233 That's just weird as it was harder to route traces for that order than to use the more logical 1112333. I don't even know what KAA means, but it's probably just 122 or 133.
The KAA terminals are to test Zener diodes. I've heard of testers with a built in inverter generating 30V to test Zeners up to nearly 30V, but I've never seen this tester personally.
@@DiodeGoneWild yes, mine. I guess all of those that have KAA pins can test zeners up to 30V into the K-A pins, I have two different variations of this one and both can. Also these ones have a case with a built-in LiPo battery that can charge over micro USB. Very convenient. One have IR decoder also and one doesn't, but they lack the waveform/pwm generator that the caseless one (same as yours) have.
KAA is to test zener diodes upto 40 volts (volts vary from model to model). My LCR T7 also have the capability, have nice color display and IR Code capturing sensor. Tested few zeners, the result was impressive.
I have the cheaper model of green backlit monochrome display. The acrylic case is a crap by many errors in its building design. I put this in a 3D printed case and it looks cool and handy. The meter is useful for fast measurements of different kind of components and test the capacitor ESR.
The 3d model need to do some corrections in the pushbutton hole size and alignment. The hole of SMD component tester bay is not deep to touch the inside PCB surface, the main switch hole and 3 holes for small banana connectors is missing. I did some mods to the 3D model manually. For setup it need four Knurl Insert Nuts for use of 4 bolts for internal assembly.
Good review and comparison man, thanx There is a pdf manual for this thing. It is better if calibrated, maybe with pressing and holding the button for a while or pressing it 2 or 3 times quickly. Using an alkaline battery is a good thing because regular batteries(heavy duty) don't have a lot of charge. A firmware update might give better results, an arduino or CH341A bios flasher help with this. Can it be modded with 2 diodes utilizing diode logic, to run it from a 9v power supply adaptor? Maybe diodes with low voltage drop work best here. Good luck
The good thing about zinc carbon batteries is they don't leak. The PP3s have a very high internal resistance, but it's not really a problem for such a device. You probably know already, just my 2c.
@@igotes Good alkalines do not leak. 9v battery story is different from aa/aaa, b,c Leakage is caused by some factors Hot work environment or storage Excessive radiation of different waves mircowave, 5G, wifi, ...etc. I have not reseached other factors given you my 2 lunas now haha just a joke on crashing digital currency. Thanks for the advice though ant the engagement of good discussion Good luck man
I had the B&W one and I was using it until it decided to suddenly die. Then I bought another one, color screen with some more features. As you said, is better to understand the limitations and it will serve you well. I noticed that some components (MOSFET, Triac, Tyristor, IGBT) may be tested/identifies whet at theirs limits just by swapping them around. And, for the B&W tester, just check to see how the socket is wired; mine was a breeze to use even with large components, the bottom row of the socket was different wired from the upper row. Edit: I just looked on my B&W tester and the screen is mounted lower on the PCB. They used double sided tape to attach it to the board, so you (in theory) could have moved to seat better the LCD cable. Also, have you tried to calibrate both units?
Nice I bought the cheapest on and it worked fine but after 2monts it didn't want to measure inductors and after 5more monts it completely stopped working. The processor is getting very hot and just lights the backlight of the lcd
I want one them large dotmatrix green displays for raspberry pi/pico 2040 :-) , I have one these testers and they can be handy for quick test or identifying parts.
Yep, my tester is that cheaper "less intelligent" type, works for what I want it for, and supposedly where the battery goes you can fit a 9v holder instead of just having the battery flop about, but mine I just zip-tied it to the case, cos it's a cheap tool, nothing special or anything... :)
Sorry for your loss man. But this incident might make the product even better, maybe by gluing some metal rectangle on top and puttin some printed note: please make both cap legs touch this metal piece first so it discharges I think lots of products got enhanced this way from having user feedback fixing the errors, dealing with trouble. Good luck man. Try finding solutions to overcome problems this way life becomes better
Nice video diodegonewild! Will you explore the usb charger? I want you to checkout the 100W usb charger! Just $7.55, I think the 100W charger and the price is far too dodgy. Can I have a shoutout plz/please? Also make more cat videos! Especially the cat being a plumber! Im your 12th commenter also i subscribed to you. #ElectronicTearDown
Amazing how my Two Comments on this video were erased and the only thing I did was mention the right attribution to Markus Frejek and Karl-Heinz Kubbeller web page for the project! What is going on with yt ??? Also to notice that if the creators have a Web page to sell these project usually they also sell a Lot more then the Chinese stolen clones, since everyone feel "morally obliged" to buy these projects from the rightful owners even if at a markup price ...
That one on the left continuously nags you to calibrate it, but will not accept the calibration or stop flashing the message after you do it That makes it incredibly annoying.
Another example of "Chinese design". Of course there are many talented designers in China, but the cheap stuff you get from ebay is just "made" and "sold". Any design work was probably done by someone else.
Great video though I have a question, please take a look. How do I personally contact you for a device donation offering? I've messaged you on Instagram but I'm getting no response. Thanks.
At 11:04 it shows that the tester is not calibrated, calibration is done by shorting the three test pins together with a low ohms short, like three pin jumpers soldered together, depending on the firmware version it may then require a stable capacitor for calibration between 100nF to 1µF, preferably something like a film capacitor is used. If SamplingADC was enabled in the firmware it will also require a small capacitor around 10 to 30nF to later be used together with small inductors that could otherwise not be measured, but this can be ignored if that feature is not needed or if it was not compiled in.
Awesome! These amaze me and I have the simpler version. Didn't realize there are newer versions with more functionality. Nice! Thanks for sharing.
I use test lead mini grabbers for mine usually. I ordered some cheap Kelvin Clips... though haven't used yet.
3:47 you can update the firmware to have the menu and the special functions. It will show more information too
You need the extra components to support the rotary encoder too?
@@edgeeffect iirc you'll need to adjust firmware for correct encoder type and run 2 wires, either under display or directly to controller
Links???
can you guide me to do that?
Nice! I had spent hours on ebay before buying the complicated one. Even there the perspex housing needed some mods. Keep it up, we all love such gadgets!
I bought one of these several years ago on eBay and amazed at its capability.
I agree with you , it is very nice for hobbyists, and ee learners.
It helped me, identify components and test them
Excellent. Thank you. I had wondered about this exact comparison. The UA-camr called "The HWCave" has a good series on improving the yellow model tester. I made his modifications and the modifications did work well. There are both hardware and software changes. Highly recommended. Also, a set of wires can make it easier to use the Yellow Tester ZIF Socket... A 3-pin header to sit in the ZIF, with clips on the ends of the wires to connect to the DUT.
I just received that new tester in the mail (after watching Diode's last video), got it, tested it, and found this video. What a coincidence! I didn't get the stupid enclosure though.
I like these multitesters. My father has one with a built in Li-Ion battery.. quiet handy!
Thank you for the video :).
Nice comparison 🙂
I can recommend the LCR-TC2 for ~17 USD (w/o VAT). It is more like the red one you have. But it actually makes use of its colour display, and it has a case with Li-po battery. Apparently, there are different versions and I got version 2. But some that are sold as version 2 actually are version 1 ...
@Mr Guru No.
Do you have a link?
@Mr Guru No.
@Mr Guru the problem is finding what seller is reliable, i.e. will not sell a dodgy clone of a clone
@Mr Guru Computer says no.
When you measure the mosfet at 12:05, the tester with the yellow board shows the symbol for the internal diode pointing in the wrong direction!
:D I didn't notice. I didn't take a closer look - I assumed that whoever designs a transistor tester, can draw transistor symbols properly. I was wrong...
Only 2 pixels are wrong placed 😉
Hned jsem poznal český přízvuk. Super video👍
If I tried to glue something like that, it would have permanent fingerprints all over it.
I bought similar product from banggood some years ago, the case fits ok.
I don't know if ALL later batches suffer this current fit problem or just some of them do.
The dimer display is because there are 2 serial rezistors of 250 Ohms in display power line. First is on the main board, second one is on the display module. By data sheet of display there should be one 250 Ohm from 5V . If you short rezistor on main board the brithness will be fine.
DiodeGoneASMR? Definitely a good idea :)
I have the yellow tester because it was the cheapest one. There are more bugs in the software, notably 2 diodes in antiparallel on pins 1 and 3 show as in antiseries (?!) but they are OK if between pins 1-2 or 2-3.
well, I also noticed this before recording the video, and then I forgot to mention it :D. Mine shows antiseries diodes too, so it has the same firmware with bugs...
@@DiodeGoneWild Did it arrive at your old address with a weirdly written house number? If so, it was a donation by me and I bought it from the same seller. My box fit well, though. The side hole lines up with the backlight connection on the PCB but I'm not sure if that's what it is for - personally, I used it to mount a switch to prevent standby discharge and reduce the screen on time after measurement.
I love these so much, I have 3 different makes and models.
One can measure Zeners up to 20V.
I am waiting for a version that sings "Marry had a little lamb"!
11:07
Maybe the transistors are tested on different frequencies. Darlington pairs are usually slow at higher frequencies.
The hFE also varies with collector current, according to some datasheets...
For example, the DC current gain for the DU808DFI is ~300 when the collector current reaches 1.5 amps, but decreases exponentially below or above...
I have the yellow one with the acrylic case and it fits perfectly, the display cable is very loose on your unit and flops way too forward. Also the case is supposed to come with a black 9V battery holder that sticks with a piece of double sided tape and matches the notches in the acrylic panel. No problems with the lever or button not fitting with mine, it's perfect
My case didn't come with any battery holders either. Hmm... 🤔
That was interesting and fascinating.
That big display tester looks good. i will try to buy it somewhere.
About the display, perhaps you can change the LED resistance by a lower one to get more brightness. These models usually have the resistance externally.
In this case, it's a design flaw: they forgot about a resistor on the display board, which is already present, and used a second resistor in series on the main board. Need to remove one of them, both are 220R.
@@Sentinel-1 Yes, I thought that also
@@Sentinel-1 Remove or short ? 🤔
@@jankomuzykant1844 bypass 😉
Again, I really love these testers :)
I have one of the simpler ones mainly just to read ESR, because it’s one of the few things I sometimes want to test that I can’t do with my multimeter
Yes, the same thing with the display connection. I left the upper part of the case totally open, no problemo.
I've got the yellow one and you are SO RIGHT about that pin layout.
I wonder if the red one is more accurate because it has more up-to-date firmware or better quality components????
These units have their flaws but they're still a brilliant addition to your workbench.
It (or both) are based on the open source version that someone mentioned somewhere on the previous videos.
One button tester should have menu like one with rotary encoder, just need pressed for longer time.
I like the cat's reaction. 😂
Well, it looks like I have a slightly updated version of the acrylic case, because on mine: the socket lever is not hitting it, the button's hole is actually at the right spot and I was able to assemble it without any glue at all. 🙂
Of course, the simpler (yellow) tester shows a lot less information, but basic component identification is enough for me - at least it labels all component legs which is useful. 🙂
Very nice comparison. I have the model on the right with BW-display. The other one seems to have more information and could be a bit more accurate on the readings in some cases. Keep in mind the error can be anything between 2 or 25% or even more...
The 640 and 470K resistor banks are spec'd at 0.1% in the original Markus design.
I don't see that on any cheap knock-offs.
Even without precision parts, it's accurate enough for hobby use.
Yeah, even most cheap passive components are very good quality wise :P Of course there are fakes and refurbs which have no QA at all and you get what you pay for...
The green one tester can measure esr of under 10uf ceramic or polyester caps correctly?
It's always show 0.64k for it
I think your cat spends quite a bit of time hiding amongst the boxes, with all your disassembly and high voltage testing.
I have one that has a color display and a zener testing option up to 40V (has internal boost regulator to do so)... Works veeery weeell :)
Which of the two do you think is best?
I think they are both good with tester 1 being more more info on transistors while tester 2 is faster, more usable, has a pdf manual you can read to mod it or fix it, has a case, its firmware can be updated with arduino or ch341a bios flasher, or any spi programmer
tester 2 is nothing but an arduino (Atmel/avr) chip with display , button, zif socket and little bit of componenets and code.
I think it is not that hard for someone capable to make an arduino shield(add on) to accomplish same tasks.
Isn't the yellow one an LCR meter?
I think Dave Jones has a video about it.
Another Fantabulous video!
If u have time, you can soak the acrylic pieces in a bucket of water 🤯
Nice!!!
I've got the right one (green display) and all acrylic parts fit perfectly - maybe the sender mixed the plates by mistake. Once I crashed the tester when measuring a loaded capacitor (stupid me) and instantly I ordered a new one ..because actually I'm just happy with it.
For modification I did not use the acrylic plate which holds the battery in its place because it makes it difficult to change the batt, when its empty (just put some plastic in, to fix the batt). I also added a little plate of Cu-covered board on the top-side to remember and to discharge capacitors before testing. The testing-socket is fine, too - for bigger components you have to use some short cables with crocodiles anyway (you can solder them on the 3 testing-pads of the upper board ...that's it
I have the one on the right (the green display one). I am quite happy with it, it helps me a lot. However, I found a bug, when testing a small signal darlington (such as the BC516) it erroneously reports npn instead of pnp and pnp instead of npn. Be aware of that, everyone.
any plan on redesigning this sir to be more precise and efficient?
Mine has an even weirder pin layout where the top row is different than the bottom. It's labelled:
Top: 1231232
Bottom: KAA1233
That's just weird as it was harder to route traces for that order than to use the more logical 1112333. I don't even know what KAA means, but it's probably just 122 or 133.
KAA may be the Zener Diode test area.
The KAA terminals are to test Zener diodes. I've heard of testers with a built in inverter generating 30V to test Zeners up to nearly 30V, but I've never seen this tester personally.
@@DiodeGoneWild yes, mine. I guess all of those that have KAA pins can test zeners up to 30V into the K-A pins, I have two different variations of this one and both can. Also these ones have a case with a built-in LiPo battery that can charge over micro USB. Very convenient. One have IR decoder also and one doesn't, but they lack the waveform/pwm generator that the caseless one (same as yours) have.
KAA is to test zener diodes upto 40 volts (volts vary from model to model). My LCR T7 also have the capability, have nice color display and IR Code capturing sensor. Tested few zeners, the result was impressive.
I have the cheaper model of green backlit monochrome display. The acrylic case is a crap by many errors in its building design. I put this in a 3D printed case and it looks cool and handy. The meter is useful for fast measurements of different kind of components and test the capacitor ESR.
Can you share your 3D model STL/OBJ file here?
The 3d model need to do some corrections in the pushbutton hole size and alignment. The hole of SMD component tester bay is not deep to touch the inside PCB surface, the main switch hole and 3 holes for small banana connectors is missing. I did some mods to the 3D model manually. For setup it need four Knurl Insert Nuts for use of 4 bolts for internal assembly.
You can try long press to go to menu and long press to execute menu action. I am not sure if it is in this version of firmware, but you can try.
I have right side yellow one ..but can we build one with atmega 328p
Good review and comparison man, thanx
There is a pdf manual for this thing.
It is better if calibrated, maybe with pressing and holding the button for a while or pressing it 2 or 3 times quickly.
Using an alkaline battery is a good thing because regular batteries(heavy duty) don't have a lot of charge.
A firmware update might give better results, an arduino or CH341A bios flasher help with this.
Can it be modded with 2 diodes utilizing diode logic, to run it from a 9v power supply adaptor?
Maybe diodes with low voltage drop work best here.
Good luck
The good thing about zinc carbon batteries is they don't leak. The PP3s have a very high internal resistance, but it's not really a problem for such a device. You probably know already, just my 2c.
@@igotes Good alkalines do not leak.
9v battery story is different from aa/aaa, b,c
Leakage is caused by some factors
Hot work environment or storage
Excessive radiation of different waves
mircowave, 5G, wifi, ...etc.
I have not reseached other factors
given you my 2 lunas now haha just a joke
on crashing digital currency.
Thanks for the advice though ant the engagement of good discussion
Good luck man
I had the B&W one and I was using it until it decided to suddenly die. Then I bought another one, color screen with some more features. As you said, is better to understand the limitations and it will serve you well.
I noticed that some components (MOSFET, Triac, Tyristor, IGBT) may be tested/identifies whet at theirs limits just by swapping them around. And, for the B&W tester, just check to see how the socket is wired; mine was a breeze to use even with large components, the bottom row of the socket was different wired from the upper row.
Edit: I just looked on my B&W tester and the screen is mounted lower on the PCB. They used double sided tape to attach it to the board, so you (in theory) could have moved to seat better the LCD cable.
Also, have you tried to calibrate both units?
Make more Russian abandoned electronics video I love your content.more videos on feroresonant stabilizer interesting technology .
What is the instrument at 7:30 ?
DIY freq-meter
danyk.cz/avr_fmetr3_en.html
Dziękuję przyjacielu i pozdrawiam cię serdecznie!
Nice
I bought the cheapest on and it worked fine but after 2monts it didn't want to measure inductors and after 5more monts it completely stopped working. The processor is getting very hot and just lights the backlight of the lcd
What name of red pcb model tester?
For the first one I directed the LED upward, so it won't light directly when I do a picture with the phone, so the phone won't dim the picture.
Hi
I have the left yellow one but suddenly it turn to Chinese language display. Is it possible turn back English?
Thank you
I have a peak dca55 and it test triacs but not thyristors.
ممكن إسم الجهاز الموجود على اليسار، لو سمحت
I want one them large dotmatrix green displays for raspberry pi/pico 2040 :-) , I have one these testers and they can be handy for quick test or identifying parts.
1000% on the case problems! BTW, the one on the right draws a little bit even while "off". I added a power switch.
My one draws less than 0.1 uA when off.
I have (had) the yellow tester, but one day, out of nowhere, the screen did not work again. There is no direct spare. Very sad.
Nice
Nice.
I love how you botched the kit. Now it definitely looks like you built it :)
😁
12:47 Simpler is better (if you know what you are looking at) 😎🤯
سلام کارهای شما عالیه 2:19 2:22 2:24 2:26 2:27
These devices really are a world apart from analogue power factor meters .....
Next video on power supply please ( Lab Powersupply
👍👍
Yep, my tester is that cheaper "less intelligent" type, works for what I want it for, and supposedly where the battery goes you can fit a 9v holder instead of just having the battery flop about, but mine I just zip-tied it to the case, cos it's a cheap tool, nothing special or anything... :)
Try testing one of your cat's whiskers and a piece of galena.
Killed my first one with a cap that still got 20V of charge :-(
Sorry for your loss man.
But this incident might make the product even better, maybe by gluing some metal rectangle on top and puttin some printed note: please make both cap legs touch this metal piece first so it discharges
I think lots of products got enhanced this way from having user feedback fixing the errors, dealing with trouble.
Good luck man. Try finding solutions to overcome problems this way life becomes better
Where is your Kitty?
10:40 kitty!
@@tactileslut thank you !
He is nicely hidden this time !
She.
Here it be OMGing 10:45
Imagine ASMR in DGW's accent, LOL.
🆗👍🏻
8:46 ... Asmr channel 😂😂
Who uses thyristors anyway?
Nice video diodegonewild! Will you explore the usb charger? I want you to checkout the 100W usb charger! Just $7.55, I think the 100W charger and the price is far too dodgy. Can I have a shoutout plz/please? Also make more cat videos! Especially the cat being a plumber! Im your 12th commenter also i subscribed to you. #ElectronicTearDown
5: 14 plz share a code of t4 green Dis modle .
My 100 th cmt
color screens cheaper than plain lcd, that's why china manufactures make it with color screen even if it make no sense with b/w interface.
Bloody hell!
Amazing how my Two Comments on this video were erased and the only thing I did was mention the right attribution to Markus Frejek and Karl-Heinz Kubbeller web page for the project! What is going on with yt ???
Also to notice that if the creators have a Web page to sell these project usually they also sell a Lot more then the Chinese stolen clones, since everyone feel "morally obliged" to buy these projects from the rightful owners even if at a markup price ...
I have some problem with assemble this cheaper ones but it fits well. You popobly assemble it in wrong way xd
Niiceeee!
That one on the left continuously nags you to calibrate it, but will not accept the calibration or stop flashing the message after you do it That makes it incredibly annoying.
10:50, so weird... hahaha
Use 18650 instead of 9V battery, they last forever :P
Nochmals, warum son schnell? Warum die Eile? Eigentlich Schade ...
what is the best nation in the world?
-doNATION!
CALIBRATE THE TESTER! I'm gonna have a nightmare today :(
Something that's useful and not at all DODGY.
22th🎉
Subtitle inggris please
For me, the comparison was too fast, I barely could follow it ...
Another example of "Chinese design". Of course there are many talented designers in China, but the cheap stuff you get from ebay is just "made" and "sold". Any design work was probably done by someone else.
Great video though I have a question, please take a look. How do I personally contact you for a device donation offering? I've messaged you on Instagram but I'm getting no response. Thanks.
contact me using danyk at centrum dot cz
👍👍👍👍