Well done. Generally speaking, we just seal the cowl to the windshield with gorilla tape (only gorilla is water resistant) and that gets enough of it. I actually have a buddy who is a former Chrysler thermal engineer. I asked if the lack of the cover was for packaging, or if it was for thermal, meaning the cover would retain heat. He didn't know, but I think it's packaging and cheapness - that you had to trim it means FCA would have to retool and source a promaster specific part, which they are loathe to do for cost reasons. So making an engine cover is a solid plan. I salute you!
Good point on the retooling. I don't know if living in the dry southwest I'd really have a problem without the engine cover, but adding one seems like it could definitely help some others in wet climates. Also, if I wasn't in a high temp climate I may have kept the insulation on, but I don't have a problem with engine noise so off it came. I had an ac compressor fail at only 53k and it was soon after a big rain. The cover won't help with that, but it really did make me start looking into the leak. I think I watched your short video on the gorilla tape? I have the sealant ready to go, but the gorilla tape would be easier for anyone to use. Not sure how the gorilla tape will do with 115 plus days on end in the summer here, but I may give it a go first since the specs say it can handle it. Are you sealing the middle together with gorilla tape also? My 2 cowl pieces have come apart quite a bit.
@@TheCorneringStore Absolutely we are sealing the center seam. You can get as crazy as you like, but the goal is to keep the water in the trough, and get it to the center drain tube unobstructed. I'm sure you've noticed leaves and whatnot collect in the mouth of the tube, making the problem even worse. There is also a case to be made for making the side drain tubes bigger, or otherwise better. I think Gorilla tape will probably survive the sun. Amazing stuff. It would look awful, but they make it in white which would survive even better.
@@promastersonly1419 Use a wallpaper seam roller to really put some pressure on a pressure sensitive tape. I used a one inch roller when I put the Eterna Bond tape I covered the seams on the roof of our camper with.
I did the same install today and I took a screen shot @12:11 to have a solid starting point for trimming my cover. Thanks as that saved me a lot of work. As another poster mentioned, I also cut off the back right post as the male end on the engine was surrounded by other stuff and unusable.
Great idea! I took your idea and fabricated an engine cover from the plastic shroud under the front bumper of a jeep wrangler. Cut it to fit and works great too.
Ha, so you used the plastic skid plate? That's a good free mod. I'm guessing you upgraded to a metal skid on the jeep? I upgraded the skid plate on my bronco as well.
@barbaraw.3236 the cutting you can just use some tin snips and take your time or of course an electric multi tool. Sorry, I didn't want to bore people with all the cutting and making the video any longer. If you checkout the video at about 12:11 as another person commented below, you can get a pretty good view of the final result. There is no right "side" any longer since where it did contour down has been cut off. I did cut around some things on the left and there are a few places where it still contours down some, but it really doesn't matter and that could all be cutoff also. Some other commenter's said they lopped off the right rear mount also I think it was. Double check that : )
Finally getting around to installing this same engine cover sourced off of Ebay. Facing the engine, did you cut off/remove the right rear mounting post on the under side of the engine cover? I'm having some fitment issues and this right rear mounting post seems to be getting in the way and makes sliding the cover into place very fiddly.
Yes, cut that sucker off. I just went and double checked and it isn't mounted on the back right, but just has the cover extending out as far as it would allow it to still fit well and protect the engine.
Yup, I had to dry everything all out before I put the cover on. We had one of the rainiest winters where I live so I was really happy to have it on before that. It's really simple since i figured out in the end you can trim enough off to fit and removie it without removing any other parts. I still have yet to finish the cowl though haha.
@@TheCorneringStore I live in SW Florida. It must have started leaking not too long ago. I found the seam in the gutter along the top above the engine, has a seam in the middle. Caulked it. My engine was missing so I decided to change the plugs and coils. I got lucky as the bolts were not super rusty. But I did see many videos where they are rotted off. Got to the last plug. The well had been full of water. It dried off, but the line and rust was still there. Its running a bit better but now I guessing injectors. Looked at eBay for a cover. 60$. Not many yards around here . Keep you posted.
Yes, It is mostly just to keep the engine quieter, but I definitely want the engine to run as cool as possible and I live in one of the hottest places in the country.
Promaster's cheap construction. Small drains...I used permatex black engine gasket maker. It is better to remove cowl and seal everything with new clips. Build new larger drains at the ends using bigger rubber hose and Permatex.
I'm dealing with the dreaded 2 rusted upper manifold bolts right now, when attempting to replace the badly-engineered oil filter adapter housing because of the cracked plastic reservoir. So it will be CA$3,000 once all is said and done (if I also need a new lower manifold - remains to be learned). There should be a class-action lawsuit. Dorman makes an after-market oil filter adapter housing which is ALL aluminum, like Dodge should have done in the first place 🤬
Oof, I hope I never need to replace that oil filter housing and have that problem. Living in the desert I'd imagine I'll he ok, but i picked up my van a few years old from Michigan. Hopefully it won't run you anymore money. I'd look at maybe replacing your coolant Reservoir also if you are having issues keeping it up to the minimum line. They have hairline cracks usually I've read. That is on my list to do. The transmissions and the leaky windshields should have been recalled/fixed I agree.
Is that a petrol/gasoline engine on Fiat Ducato (original)? Here in Europe they are only with 2.0, 2.3 and 3.0 Diesel Engine! So funny! btw. that leaking problem has been known since 2007 about. Just non-hardening sealant under that plastic piece enough and water problem is over! Do not use silicone!
Yes, it's a gasoline engine. It's a 3.6 pentastar engine. They put them in the 6 Cylinder chevy camaros and most Jeeps also get them. They have transmission problems, but the engines themselves are pretty reliable. It makes sense you guys across the pond would have been through those years ago since there are so many ducatos, boxers, etc running around. In the states we just now received the updated front end face-lift for the Promasters this year. Do you have a name or link to the exact product you guys use to seal the cowl? Thanks!
![Lp. Сердце Вселенной #60 РОЖДЕНИЕ ЛОЛОЛОШКИ [Финал] • Майнкрафт](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/YoR0pAV9FVQ/mqdefault.jpg)
Well done. Generally speaking, we just seal the cowl to the windshield with gorilla tape (only gorilla is water resistant) and that gets enough of it. I actually have a buddy who is a former Chrysler thermal engineer. I asked if the lack of the cover was for packaging, or if it was for thermal, meaning the cover would retain heat. He didn't know, but I think it's packaging and cheapness - that you had to trim it means FCA would have to retool and source a promaster specific part, which they are loathe to do for cost reasons. So making an engine cover is a solid plan. I salute you!
Good point on the retooling. I don't know if living in the dry southwest I'd really have a problem without the engine cover, but adding one seems like it could definitely help some others in wet climates. Also, if I wasn't in a high temp climate I may have kept the insulation on, but I don't have a problem with engine noise so off it came. I had an ac compressor fail at only 53k and it was soon after a big rain. The cover won't help with that, but it really did make me start looking into the leak. I think I watched your short video on the gorilla tape? I have the sealant ready to go, but the gorilla tape would be easier for anyone to use. Not sure how the gorilla tape will do with 115 plus days on end in the summer here, but I may give it a go first since the specs say it can handle it. Are you sealing the middle together with gorilla tape also? My 2 cowl pieces have come apart quite a bit.
@@TheCorneringStorethis isn’t Kip from promasters only that left you a comment
@@TheCorneringStore Absolutely we are sealing the center seam. You can get as crazy as you like, but the goal is to keep the water in the trough, and get it to the center drain tube unobstructed. I'm sure you've noticed leaves and whatnot collect in the mouth of the tube, making the problem even worse. There is also a case to be made for making the side drain tubes bigger, or otherwise better.
I think Gorilla tape will probably survive the sun. Amazing stuff. It would look awful, but they make it in white which would survive even better.
@@promastersonly1419 Use a wallpaper seam roller to really put some pressure on a pressure sensitive tape. I used a one inch roller when I put the Eterna Bond tape I covered the seams on the roof of our camper with.
@@kevinwilkinson1510 Great idea!
I did the same install today and I took a screen shot @12:11 to have a solid starting point for trimming my cover. Thanks as that saved me a lot of work. As another poster mentioned, I also cut off the back right post as the male end on the engine was surrounded by other stuff and unusable.
The Promaster cowl is like a screen door on a submarine. Good preventive effort putting in an engine cover.
Great idea! I took your idea and fabricated an engine cover from the plastic shroud under the front bumper of a jeep wrangler. Cut it to fit and works great too.
Ha, so you used the plastic skid plate? That's a good free mod. I'm guessing you upgraded to a metal skid on the jeep? I upgraded the skid plate on my bronco as well.
Quick and easy upgrade with your help. Thank you!
Awesome 6L engine swap video 🤪
Dropped my 1/4 mile times at the strip by seconds and I can gap Transits on the hwy now no problem!
Do you have any video of the actual cutting? Or photos of the sides when finished? Thank you
@barbaraw.3236 the cutting you can just use some tin snips and take your time or of course an electric multi tool. Sorry, I didn't want to bore people with all the cutting and making the video any longer. If you checkout the video at about 12:11 as another person commented below, you can get a pretty good view of the final result. There is no right "side" any longer since where it did contour down has been cut off. I did cut around some things on the left and there are a few places where it still contours down some, but it really doesn't matter and that could all be cutoff also. Some other commenter's said they lopped off the right rear mount also I think it was. Double check that : )
Thank you ! how is it holding up?
@smsmyth no problems at all. Been through several downpours, and it's done the job.
Finally getting around to installing this same engine cover sourced off of Ebay. Facing the engine, did you cut off/remove the right rear mounting post on the under side of the engine cover? I'm having some fitment issues and this right rear mounting post seems to be getting in the way and makes sliding the cover into place very fiddly.
Yes, cut that sucker off. I just went and double checked and it isn't mounted on the back right, but just has the cover extending out as far as it would allow it to still fit well and protect the engine.
I wonder if Eternabond tape would hold up?
Nice work!
Spent a week getting to the front plugs. All wet. Found the leak at the seam. Love to do this
Yup, I had to dry everything all out before I put the cover on. We had one of the rainiest winters where I live so I was really happy to have it on before that. It's really simple since i figured out in the end you can trim enough off to fit and removie it without removing any other parts. I still have yet to finish the cowl though haha.
@@TheCorneringStore I live in SW Florida. It must have started leaking not too long ago. I found the seam in the gutter along the top above the engine, has a seam in the middle. Caulked it. My engine was missing so I decided to change the plugs and coils. I got lucky as the bolts were not super rusty. But I did see many videos where they are rotted off. Got to the last plug. The well had been full of water. It dried off, but the line and rust was still there. Its running a bit better but now I guessing injectors. Looked at eBay for a cover. 60$. Not many yards around here . Keep you posted.
Got the cover. Time to fit it . Thanks for the idea
@@christopherrasmussen8718 awesome, hopefully the install goes smooth for you!
Does anyone have a link for this Cover? Thanks
Did you take the insulation off the inside of engine cover after you cut it down to fit?
Yes, It is mostly just to keep the engine quieter, but I definitely want the engine to run as cool as possible and I live in one of the hottest places in the country.
Promaster's cheap construction. Small drains...I used permatex black engine gasket maker. It is better to remove cowl and seal everything with new clips. Build new larger drains at the ends using bigger rubber hose and Permatex.
Awesome video! Which engine cover/model year did you use?
I'll have to add that to the description sometime. Early on in the video I say the exact year range that I believe works and is what I looked up.
I'm dealing with the dreaded 2 rusted upper manifold bolts right now, when attempting to replace the badly-engineered oil filter adapter housing because of the cracked plastic reservoir. So it will be CA$3,000 once all is said and done (if I also need a new lower manifold - remains to be learned). There should be a class-action lawsuit. Dorman makes an after-market oil filter adapter housing which is ALL aluminum, like Dodge should have done in the first place 🤬
Oof, I hope I never need to replace that oil filter housing and have that problem. Living in the desert I'd imagine I'll he ok, but i picked up my van a few years old from Michigan. Hopefully it won't run you anymore money. I'd look at maybe replacing your coolant Reservoir also if you are having issues keeping it up to the minimum line. They have hairline cracks usually I've read. That is on my list to do. The transmissions and the leaky windshields should have been recalled/fixed I agree.
Well now your Going to Trap heat To the engine There’s not enough space under the hood Like the minivan or jeep
Is that a petrol/gasoline engine on Fiat Ducato (original)? Here in Europe they are only with 2.0, 2.3 and 3.0 Diesel Engine! So funny! btw. that leaking problem has been known since 2007 about. Just non-hardening sealant under that plastic piece enough and water problem is over! Do not use silicone!
Yes, it's a gasoline engine. It's a 3.6 pentastar engine. They put them in the 6 Cylinder chevy camaros and most Jeeps also get them. They have transmission problems, but the engines themselves are pretty reliable. It makes sense you guys across the pond would have been through those years ago since there are so many ducatos, boxers, etc running around. In the states we just now received the updated front end face-lift for the Promasters this year. Do you have a name or link to the exact product you guys use to seal the cowl? Thanks!