I was a lineman I have dug many deep narrow holes. When we could get our vacuum trailer in it was pretty nice. Short of that a shop vac works pretty good if the dirt can be broken up to go through the vacuum.This trick works really well on fence posts. Use a wooden drill to break up rotten base vacuum clean and drop a new post in
If you end up doing dry cutting of the existing floor, make sure you get enough poly sheet to completely cover all your equipment and tools or else you will have the fine dust getting onto and into everything. Also make sure you have enough dust masks for all your volunteers. Even if you do mostly wet saw cuts, any jack hammers or pavement breakers will also make some dust. Good luck and everybody be safe.
We had 1500 sqft of tile removed from our downstairs floors during our home remodel and I can attest the dust traveled EVERYWHERE and we regretted not having some dust containment curtains setup to isolate upstairs from the downstairs. I like the idea of a containment tent posted by eduard that is big enough to work. Best of luck on the work day Keith.
As others have said, some pre-prep is needed. Wet diamond cut the floor with a big floor saw, through or almost through the existing floor. Have the rebar cage made up before hand and have the bolts ready to go in their own cage.
Concrete saw prior to hammering. The hammer will fracture a distance away from the impact. Saw will interrupt the impact and localize it to the area you want.
I would not have guessed that a 1 ton jib crane would require almost 8 tons of concrete for a footing. I would definitely ask for help with this project!
I would like to make a suggestion. Cut 5x5 part to be removed into smaller 1.5x1.5 squares, drill a hole in the center and add a concrete anchor in the center. You can use your gantry crane to pull the chunks up and put them on a cart and wheel them out. I injured my self with an electric sledge hammer, it almost 9 months to get my wrists and shoulders back to normal. I figured this out and made it an easy two hour job!!
Good idea. - Fact is when we were installing machines for a living that is exactly the way we did the cut-outs for machine basses (But we used the back hoe fo do the lifting)
100% Correct. Make the big cut, grid it out into smaller chunks and pull them with the gantry. A little more cutting but way less labor and safer for all involved. Be nice to find an ultra miniature track hoe from a rental place to get in there and do the bulk of the digging. I know he has a tractor as well, might be able to pull it close enough to dump right out of the mini into the tractor bucket and haul out.
Don't even THINK about not sing water. - Any rental place will have a wet saw. ,,,, Take small garbage bags and fill them with sand to make a dam around the area you are cutting. (Or you can just use the sand if you don't mind the clean-up.) I also recommend epoxy mounting re-bar pins in the sides of the floor cut. and if you want, even weld your j bolts to re-bar welded to the pins. - If you can get a machine in there get a 12" auger and plant a sonotube a few feet down in the center. with re-bar welded tithe J-bolts. - Never move if yo do it that way.
I've been watching videos of old mines and mills. They used to put bolts or rods in pipes part way down when they poured them into the concrete. That way, if the machine that they were bolting down was a little off, or they didn't get the bolt in exactly the right position, they had some wiggle room.
6:57 I wish I could drop by for this!! .. It'd be fun to help out all us old machinist guys, digging a big old hole in Keith's shop and pouring concrete!!! :) . :) !! But I'm in Northern Canada, and my truck gets 10 MPG :( I have poured hundreds maybe thousands of yards of concrete and Machinery Grout. A decent 4000 PSI Concrete can be mixed ON SITE with just water and "Mix Bags" .. Unless you have "lack of water trouble" on site and with the number of guys available?? I would NOT order ready mix concrete!!. EVERY problem and Trouble pouring concrete is with the truck!!! They come early, pour too fast, use CRAP concrete because it's residential, mix it WAY to wet (the list goes on) 4 wheel barrows, two electric mixers, a shovel for everyone, :) that's all you need. With 6 guys getting the hole dug will be the easiest part. Gas powered Concrete saw ro make the hole neat ... a big electric jack hammer, couple, three sledge hammers, 3 times as many, of 5 gallon plastic buckets, as you think you need maximum. Buy 25% more concrete mix bags than the maximum required .. store it separate AWAY from the mix area, so it can be returned , when you don't need it. Same with the re-bar (they make fiberglass re-bar now .. light as a feather doesn't rust and just as strong (and you're not supposed to weld it anyway!) Ties up same as steel. Wish I could be there!! :(
I'm no expert in concrete, but I had some work done when I moved into my house within the first week (plumber screwed up and put a back-flo preventer in wrong...and well...plumbing inspectors are bought and paid for). The plumber they used came in and cut our basement floor to fix it. OMG what a MESS. DO NOT cut concrete in an enclosed space without either using water or a good vacuum system. That dust will coat EVERYTHING in that shop for WEEKS (or longer). Wish I could join you, but I think I'd be more of a hinderance than help.
Safety first. Concrete dust contains silica dust a known carcinogen. Lots of info out there. Wet saw mandatory. Engage competent structural engineer to design crane foundation. Some structural engineers “over-design”. Be careful. Get signed and sealed structural drawings for your file. Build a template to hold anchor bolts accurately. Complete all demo work and prep work. Schedule ready-mix to arrive first thing in morning. Sunday delivery will be expensive unless you have a very good friend at batch plant. To assure you get concrete design strength per structural drawings, and omit need for concrete testing, order stronger concrete. (If drawings call for 3,000 PSI then order 4,000 PSI. Cost increase well worth peace of mind. Take time to install sufficient temporary protection. Plan method to move ready mix to foundation location. No matter how careful you are, you will make a mess and impact items close to path. Plan, plan and plan so no surprises on work days. . .
I may have missed how much concrete you are pouring but if it’s less then 3 yards you may want to look into renting a mud mixer and use sack mix. We have poured a lot of small pours with great success with 4000 and 5000 psi sack mix. Not a standard drum mixer though. Look up Mu Mixer. I look forward to the build.
Keith, Concrete takes 28 days for full strength. You can order high early concrete which develops approx 75% full strength in 10 to 14 days. Talk with the ready mix guys.
Actually this depth 4’ meets the American Concrete Institute definition for “mass concrete” and requires special considerations to control excessive heat during curing, the opposite of high early strength concrete. Excessive temperature rise within the concrete can cause serious problems. I’ll write an email to Keith explaining more in detail.
I would so love to help but health won't permit it. Also, you are on the wrong pond. Ten years ago, I could have just come and done it for you. All of the comments below are spot on. Have the concrete cut. Figure by the time all is said and done, that is one day. Build your cage and have it ready along with a template for locating the J bolts. If you don't have rock to contend with, digging the hole is a day. Possibly, placing the concrete can be done that day also. Wait maybe two weeks to mount the crane. Tell the concrete suppliers what you are doing and let them specify the mix. Good luck. Wish that I could be there.
This footing seems way over the top for a 1 ton jib. That’s nearly 3 cubic metres of concrete @ 6 1/2 tons below ground. You could sit that block above ground with the jib bolted on and never tip it over. Completely understand if you’re likely to install something bigger later on. I would have thought a more contemporary pier/cylinder style footing with cap using a large auger would cause less disturbance. Cheers
OH,,,,,one more thing I forgot.. - Shake it.. - If you can't rent a vibrator I think Harbor Freight has one for under a C-Note. ----- VERY important to vibrate structural concrete.
To quote my sister who lived in Atlanta for 20+ years, "Atlanta is a miss-placed Northern City". To quote myself who lived in Brunswick and Albany Georgia for a few years, "watch out for gators and snakes".
Wish I were closer to your shop, would love to help. Have you ever thought abought bringing on a youngster to teach him the trade. You would be an excellent teacher.
Actually this depth 4’ meets the American Concrete Institute definition for “mass concrete” and requires special considerations to control excessive temperature rise and temperature differential during curing, the opposite of high early strength concrete. Excessive temperature rise within the concrete can cause serious problems. I’ll write an email to Keith explaining more in detail.
1 days work/ 1 ton mini digger with hydraulic breaker / 1concrete cutter/ 1 skip loader to take out soil etc, and bring in concrete. Tack weld the cage together, drop in the hole after competed. 2 Lengths of 2.4mx100x50 timber+ 25mm ply(size unknown) for hold down bolts. 4 men no problem....
Be sure the bottom of the hole is 1.5x the size of the top of the hole. IE length of side of hole 5 ft per side. Bottom should be 7.5. This will give you much more stability for lifting.
I am viewing this on the morning of April 23, 2024, and was curious to see May 4, 2024 as the title. I guess you’re planning that, I thought perhaps you just messed up April for May? Love your work.
I think you are being over optimistic in getting it ready in a day. Just putting in the steel is a lot of work. I have done concrete in the past and drilled the holes and tied existing concrete to new concrete. Would love to be able to come help. I am heading to Florida so I will wave when I go by.
Do you have enough people for Saturday? I would be glad to assist if you could use my help. I'm a retired medical systems service person with extensive rigging of delicate equipment up to 16000 lbs. I'm 76, but still kicking. I've done blocking and used skates, high jacks, Johnson bars and just about everything else during 37 years in the field. I'm in Jensen Beach Fl. on the east coast. I can drive up tomorrow. What time will you start on Saturday. Let me know asap.
I'd love to come one of these days But I'm clear across here in Walla Walla Washington Next to the Tri cities Or do you like Duck hunt and fish Real God's country No Chigger BUT also Clark E. On a workday class Electronics on the Monarch Lathe I said I need some more time on my continuing education credits It is a University Electronics instructor Electronics instructor I think I would really enjoy the class Clark's wife gave me About 10 of these😂 Thanks Frank I would love to come down but one of these days I will
Speaking of lathes, whatever happened to that lathe you were building that electronic control mechanism for- maybe I missed it, but I don't remember a final video on that one.
I have done commercial concrete for over 40 years , for what you are going to use the jib crane for ,even though doing a footing for the crane is def the proper way ! I think you could get a large 1 inch thick pate of steel and bolt down the jib and weld it that would spread the wight fine and would be a lot less work and mess for u ! just my 2 cents ,, good luck please video it wish u were closer I would offer my equipment and exp
One of the best parts of the video is seeing that the Tally Ho backing plate seems to have been finished - props to the rotary head mill. Of course being May the 4th, you know someone is showing up with a light saber.
I have not seen the jib crane you have bought but why can you not enlarge the base and brace it to spread the load on the existing slab. Extend the central pivot point into your roof structure and plywood brace the ceiling structure and jobs all good . No mess no moving machines no slab cutting. Plywood braced roof/ceiling is not taking any vertical load only horizontal. Work smarter. Your slab will easily take a 1000kg per square metre. Keith from the UK.
Maybe I’m outta line Kieth so apologies if so. Thats an awful lot of work for a job crane that only lifts 1 tonne, in my opinion. A fixed jib crane only reaches as far as it reaches and that’s it. My shops a lot smaller than yours (~450 ft ^2 - with just some wood working machines and a 14x40 lathe & a Bridgeport mill. I bought recently a mobile gantry crane (yep out of China) 🙄 for $Aud 1000 that’s on castor wheels and moves easily about the shop & has a 1 tonne block and tackle (endless chain) hoist on a girder trolley. It will lift any of the machines in my shop. I also have a electric hoist lifts about half a tonne that I’m going to buy another girder trolley and hand the electric hoist on one side of the gantry and the endless chain hoist on the other and I ca n use either depending on what weight I have to lift. It’s shown in this video on UA-cam that I just recently uploaded a couple weeks back about my new lathe, but the gantry crane is in the video towards the end (scroll past the lathe if you don’t have time to watch it all). ua-cam.com/video/JFcVNywya-Q/v-deo.htmlsi=DFOmbRPLH8SSZQJo In $US that would be only ~ $650 tops. Would that not be a whole lot less work and more versatile for your shop - you could move it anywhere you want, straddle a lathe if you want etc, and when your not using it park it out the way until you do next need it. I’m now wondering how the heck I ever managed without mine now that I have it This is the link to where I bought mine downunder, pretty much guaranteed someone in USA is importing these from China as well. www.machineryhouse.com.au/k088 Just food for thought, might save you a whole heap of work & time to devote to other projects maybe? From memory it’s about 10 or 11 feet wide and can raise up to about the same height as it is wide. It will straddle a vehicle for eg if you had to remove an engine & gear box as an example. It might even straddle both your big lathes and with the girder trolley you could shift workpieces or chucks etc between lathes. Hope this might help. I’m not associated with the company or the product, just a satisfied customer. Cheers.
@@TgWags69 I thought I remembered seeing him use a mobile gantry when he was restoring that long bed machine some time back. I guess he knows what he wants / needs, and the best way to go about it. Just seems like a lot of work & expense to lift 1 tonne if he already has a mobile gantry that would do the job, was what caused me to comment.
wow a 5x5x4' footing sounds waaaaay to much. An automotive lift is installed in a 6" slab all day long and they hold 2.5 tons a side with a pretty similar reach as your jib crane. I mean I could see a 12" slab but not 4'.
WOW- massive overkill- realistically that little crane you have now would work fine with a rolling trolley and if you moved your lathes around a bit so it reaches both. For that once every 10 years occasion you need to lift something heavier than a chuck, just use your gantry. That vertical support beam would easily support a heavier jib crane, because I'm sure it is sitting in a heavy foundation, and a top rotating support would eliminate the leverage against the base.
That little crane isn't sufficient at all, we've seen it bow in previous videos. Trust me mate, Keith wouldn't make a ruckus over it if he didn't have a reason for it. Big lathe needs a big crane.
@@aserta I saw the video too, it bowed a bit but did the job and that was on that massive capstan casting. Keith's only complaint at that time was that it didn't have a rolling trolley. One has to ask how many times am I going to do this in my lifetime to justify a massive crane. Keith is no spring chicken.
Why didn’t you just get a gantry crane for 2000 lbs on wheels , it could go all over the shop and be put out of the way when not in use and all you do it’s pay for it and use it ?besides if you move the machines the crane is not locked down to one spot .
I was a lineman I have dug many deep narrow holes. When we could get our vacuum trailer in it was pretty nice. Short of that a shop vac works pretty good if the dirt can be broken up to go through the vacuum.This trick works really well on fence posts. Use a wooden drill to break up rotten base vacuum clean and drop a new post in
If you end up doing dry cutting of the existing floor, make sure you get enough poly sheet to completely cover all your equipment and tools or else you will have the fine dust getting onto and into everything. Also make sure you have enough dust masks for all your volunteers. Even if you do mostly wet saw cuts, any jack hammers or pavement breakers will also make some dust.
Good luck and everybody be safe.
Maybe even build a tent around the work area to contain the dust.
Oh the DUST! Don't do that.
We had 1500 sqft of tile removed from our downstairs floors during our home remodel and I can attest the dust traveled EVERYWHERE and we regretted not having some dust containment curtains setup to isolate upstairs from the downstairs. I like the idea of a containment tent posted by eduard that is big enough to work. Best of luck on the work day Keith.
This is a job to cut wet and hire the right 'guy' with the tools. Doing the rebar and pour is a good excuse for a BBQ and a few guys.
As others have said, some pre-prep is needed. Wet diamond cut the floor with a big floor saw, through or almost through the existing floor. Have the rebar cage made up before hand and have the bolts ready to go in their own cage.
The equipment move, sawing, cage build, could all be a pre-dig-day workday. Or several days. It certainly is several tasks/teams.
Concrete saw prior to hammering. The hammer will fracture a distance away from the impact. Saw will interrupt the impact and localize it to the area you want.
Do you remember the thickness of the concrete and will a concrete saw (that can be rented) be able to cut deep enough?
@@ksingleton101 We had a walk behind saw that would cut 14? deep. Depends on how much you want to spend on the rental.:
use a diamond concrete saw to cut 5' x 5' out, uses water no dust just mud, vacuum it up. should be able to find a contractor near by
I was also thinking about that dust on all those precision machines. Not a good combination.
Excellent advice
That'right, and drill 4" holes and use concrete bursters, no mess or damage outside the saw cut area.
Usually easy to hire locally.
I would not have guessed that a 1 ton jib crane would require almost 8 tons of concrete for a footing. I would definitely ask for help with this project!
I would like to make a suggestion. Cut 5x5 part to be removed into smaller 1.5x1.5 squares, drill a hole in the center and add a concrete anchor in the center. You can use your gantry crane to pull the chunks up and put them on a cart and wheel them out. I injured my self with an electric sledge hammer, it almost 9 months to get my wrists and shoulders back to normal. I figured this out and made it an easy two hour job!!
Good idea. - Fact is when we were installing machines for a living that is exactly the way we did the cut-outs for machine basses (But we used the back hoe fo do the lifting)
Great idea - let the wet saw and crane do all the nasty work.
100% Correct. Make the big cut, grid it out into smaller chunks and pull them with the gantry. A little more cutting but way less labor and safer for all involved. Be nice to find an ultra miniature track hoe from a rental place to get in there and do the bulk of the digging. I know he has a tractor as well, might be able to pull it close enough to dump right out of the mini into the tractor bucket and haul out.
As a ex concretor from Melbourne, Australia. May the 4th be with yall.
Don't even THINK about not sing water. - Any rental place will have a wet saw. ,,,, Take small garbage bags and fill them with sand to make a dam around the area you are cutting. (Or you can just use the sand if you don't mind the clean-up.) I also recommend epoxy mounting re-bar pins in the sides of the floor cut. and if you want, even weld your j bolts to re-bar welded to the pins. - If you can get a machine in there get a 12" auger and plant a sonotube a few feet down in the center. with re-bar welded tithe J-bolts. - Never move if yo do it that way.
I'm going to help the cause by staying out of their way. 😄😄
Hopefully some competent helpers will show up.
Use a concrete saw to cut out the outline of the new foundation before you jackhammer up the old floor.
About time you installed Ginger's scratching post with a proper foundation.
😹😹😹😻😸👍🙏
🤣
I'm wondering what happened to the puppy dog he had on the show afew months after his older dog died.?
I've been watching videos of old mines and mills. They used to put bolts or rods in pipes part way down when they poured them into the concrete. That way, if the machine that they were bolting down was a little off, or they didn't get the bolt in exactly the right position, they had some wiggle room.
Never hesitate to ask for help when you need it. It's not a sign of weakness. It is a demonstration of wisdom.
Best wishes for a good crew and a safe work day.
Also, most structural codes don't allow welding rebar unless it's the special rebar made for it. So you will be wire tying the rebar cage.
6:57 I wish I could drop by for this!! .. It'd be fun to help out all us old machinist guys, digging a big old hole in Keith's shop and pouring concrete!!! :) . :) !! But I'm in Northern Canada, and my truck gets 10 MPG :(
I have poured hundreds maybe thousands of yards of concrete and Machinery Grout. A decent 4000 PSI Concrete can be mixed ON SITE with just water and "Mix Bags" .. Unless you have "lack of water trouble" on site and with the number of guys available?? I would NOT order ready mix concrete!!.
EVERY problem and Trouble pouring concrete is with the truck!!! They come early, pour too fast, use CRAP concrete because it's residential, mix it WAY to wet (the list goes on) 4 wheel barrows, two electric mixers, a shovel for everyone, :) that's all you need.
With 6 guys getting the hole dug will be the easiest part. Gas powered Concrete saw ro make the hole neat ... a big electric jack hammer, couple, three sledge hammers, 3 times as many, of 5 gallon plastic buckets, as you think you need maximum.
Buy 25% more concrete mix bags than the maximum required .. store it separate AWAY from the mix area, so it can be returned , when you don't need it.
Same with the re-bar (they make fiberglass re-bar now .. light as a feather doesn't rust and just as strong (and you're not supposed to weld it anyway!) Ties up same as steel.
Wish I could be there!! :(
I'm no expert in concrete, but I had some work done when I moved into my house within the first week (plumber screwed up and put a back-flo preventer in wrong...and well...plumbing inspectors are bought and paid for). The plumber they used came in and cut our basement floor to fix it. OMG what a MESS. DO NOT cut concrete in an enclosed space without either using water or a good vacuum system. That dust will coat EVERYTHING in that shop for WEEKS (or longer).
Wish I could join you, but I think I'd be more of a hinderance than help.
Safety first. Concrete dust contains silica dust a known carcinogen. Lots of info out there. Wet saw mandatory. Engage competent structural engineer to design crane foundation. Some structural engineers “over-design”. Be careful. Get signed and sealed structural drawings for your file. Build a template to hold anchor bolts accurately. Complete all demo work and prep work. Schedule ready-mix to arrive first thing in morning. Sunday delivery will be expensive unless you have a very good friend at batch plant. To assure you get concrete design strength per structural drawings, and omit need for concrete testing, order stronger concrete. (If drawings call for 3,000 PSI then order 4,000 PSI. Cost increase well worth peace of mind. Take time to install sufficient temporary protection. Plan method to move ready mix to foundation location. No matter how careful you are, you will make a mess and impact items close to path. Plan, plan and plan so no surprises on work days. . .
I may have missed how much concrete you are pouring but if it’s less then 3 yards you may want to look into renting a mud mixer and use sack mix. We have poured a lot of small pours with great success with 4000 and 5000 psi sack mix. Not a standard drum mixer though. Look up Mu Mixer. I look forward to the build.
Thank you for another great video. Cheers
Keith,
Concrete takes 28 days for full strength. You can order high early concrete which develops approx 75% full strength in 10 to 14 days. Talk with the ready mix guys.
Actually this depth 4’ meets the American Concrete Institute definition for “mass concrete” and requires special considerations to control excessive heat during curing, the opposite of high early strength concrete. Excessive temperature rise within the concrete can cause serious problems. I’ll write an email to Keith explaining more in detail.
Right!
Special edition videos are always welcome too! Even if its just a cat update, website updates, or kicking around ideas for your wood shop section!
Maybe the Stoker Engine will be next.
I would so love to help but health won't permit it. Also, you are on the wrong pond. Ten years ago, I could have just come and done it for you. All of the comments below are spot on. Have the concrete cut. Figure by the time all is said and done, that is one day. Build your cage and have it ready along with a template for locating the J bolts. If you don't have rock to contend with, digging the hole is a day. Possibly, placing the concrete can be done that day also. Wait maybe two weeks to mount the crane. Tell the concrete suppliers what you are doing and let them specify the mix. Good luck. Wish that I could be there.
This footing seems way over the top for a 1 ton jib. That’s nearly 3 cubic metres of concrete @ 6 1/2 tons below ground. You could sit that block above ground with the jib bolted on and never tip it over. Completely understand if you’re likely to install something bigger later on. I would have thought a more contemporary pier/cylinder style footing with cap using a large auger would cause less disturbance. Cheers
May the 4th be with you. Getting it done in a day is a quite a job. You need some time to load it with the crane too.
OH,,,,,one more thing I forgot.. - Shake it.. - If you can't rent a vibrator I think Harbor Freight has one for under a C-Note. ----- VERY important to vibrate structural concrete.
Wish I could help, I am too far away. May the fourth be with you.
To quote my sister who lived in Atlanta for 20+ years, "Atlanta is a miss-placed Northern City". To quote myself who lived in Brunswick and Albany Georgia for a few years, "watch out for gators and snakes".
Wish I were closer to your shop, would love to help. Have you ever thought abought bringing on a youngster to teach him the trade. You would be an excellent teacher.
Actually this depth 4’ meets the American Concrete Institute definition for “mass concrete” and requires special considerations to control excessive temperature rise and temperature differential during curing, the opposite of high early strength concrete. Excessive temperature rise within the concrete can cause serious problems. I’ll write an email to Keith explaining more in detail.
May the 4th be with you Keith 👌🏼
1 days work/ 1 ton mini digger with hydraulic breaker / 1concrete cutter/ 1 skip loader to take out soil etc, and bring in concrete. Tack weld the cage together, drop in the hole after competed. 2 Lengths of 2.4mx100x50 timber+ 25mm ply(size unknown) for hold down bolts. 4 men no problem....
What is m and mm 😅
@@KPSchleyer You eat them, some are peanut and cookies, I see what you did there.
@@KPSchleyer A newer version of imperial measurements...
Awwwe , I was loving the funny comments when the date was at 2014 😸😸😺 but still May the fourth be with you 😸😺
If my calendar is correct, it's April not May yet.
@@RichieCat4223 / yes your calendar is correct , but that was advance good wishes for the Force to be with them on May the fourth 😹😹😸🙏
A great time will be had by all.
I'm struck in SoCal, to much work to do. 😉 Good luck with your slab job
Be sure the bottom of the hole is 1.5x the size of the top of the hole. IE length of side of hole 5 ft per side. Bottom should be 7.5. This will give you much more stability for lifting.
Would love to be there but UK is a bit far away.
Hope you get some good footage of the jib crane install, I’m in Iraq so I’ll probably not going be able to make it.
Your helpers with need to use the force on this one.
Im in Cali, But, Good luck Brother Keith !!!!
Thanks for sharing 👍
May the fourth be with you! lol
If you’re doing this on May 4th the only tool you should be using to cut that concrete is Lightsabre’s
May the fourth be with you.....
❤❤❤👍👍👍tanks
Should be an enjoyable couple of days.
I am viewing this on the morning of April 23, 2024, and was curious to see May 4, 2024 as the title. I guess you’re planning that, I thought perhaps you just messed up April for May? Love your work.
Video from the future. What will they think of next?
I think you are being over optimistic in getting it ready in a day. Just putting in the steel is a lot of work. I have done concrete in the past and drilled the holes and tied existing concrete to new concrete. Would love to be able to come help. I am heading to Florida so I will wave when I go by.
There are people with concrete experience that will show up, you will have to PAY them. I assume "help" means free of charge. Na.
Do you have enough people for Saturday? I would be glad to assist if you could use my help. I'm a retired medical systems service person with extensive rigging of delicate equipment up to 16000 lbs. I'm 76, but still kicking. I've done blocking and used skates, high jacks, Johnson bars and just about everything else during 37 years in the field. I'm in Jensen Beach Fl. on the east coast. I can drive up tomorrow. What time will you start on Saturday. Let me know asap.
I know you probably don't want to re-upload again, but the first text banner is blank.
I lived in Newnan Georgia for 12 years. Hot in the summer
Love to help but too far away. Should be a great collaboration project, looking forward to seeing you and your volunteers "Gettin' it Done".
Surly you have contacted your buddy A-Bomb. He went through the same process recently.
Star Wars day. May the fourth be with you.
I'd love to come one of these days But I'm clear across here in Walla Walla Washington Next to the Tri cities Or do you like Duck hunt and fish Real God's country No Chigger
BUT also Clark E. On a workday class Electronics on the Monarch Lathe I said I need some more time on my continuing education credits It is a University Electronics instructor Electronics instructor I think I would really enjoy the class Clark's wife gave me About 10 of these😂 Thanks Frank I would love to come down but one of these days I will
Speaking of lathes, whatever happened to that lathe you were building that electronic control mechanism for- maybe I missed it, but I don't remember a final video on that one.
Has not occured yet, we see it when he shows it...
It seems to have gone the same way as the Stoker Engine that was supposed to be done on the boring mill.
@@garybrenner6236 OH Yeah- forgot about that project.
I have done commercial concrete for over 40 years , for what you are going to use the jib crane for ,even though doing a footing for the crane is def the proper way ! I think you could get a large 1 inch thick pate of steel and bolt down the jib and weld it that would spread the wight fine and would be a lot less work and mess for u ! just my 2 cents ,, good luck please video it wish u were closer I would offer my equipment and exp
I wish I was closer so I could help.
Why May 4, when we are only at April 24?
sounds like you are getting a Jib crane much like Abom's
❤️🔥
One of the best parts of the video is seeing that the Tally Ho backing plate seems to have been finished - props to the rotary head mill.
Of course being May the 4th, you know someone is showing up with a light saber.
Nice catch
Legit question: when Keith says "1 ton", is it 1000kg? Or there's such a thing as "imperial ton"? Thanks!
US ton is 2000lb. Over here in Oz 2240 lb for the imperial ton from UK or now 1000kg = 1 tonne cause we are now metric
I figure its 3.7 cubic yards at ~4000lbs per yd for just shy of 15k lbs. Geez, how long is the boom?? 😂
live stream it
Hmmmmm 🤔 well if your talking God's country everyone knows that WISCONSIN IS GODS COUNTRY !! love the videos Keith.
Yall an’t been to Alaska have ya
Unfortunately no but that's one of my bucket list thing !! At least I'm closer to Alaska then Georgia
This reminds me of the Old Style TV commercials.
Who can forget that Old Style is made in God's Country and is fully krausened.
Awe man my original comment is gone 😭
I have not seen the jib crane you have bought but why can you not enlarge the base and brace it to spread the load on the existing slab. Extend the central pivot point into your roof structure and plywood brace the ceiling structure and jobs all good . No mess no moving machines no slab cutting. Plywood braced roof/ceiling is not taking any vertical load only horizontal. Work smarter. Your slab will easily take a 1000kg per square metre. Keith from the UK.
Maybe I’m outta line Kieth so apologies if so.
Thats an awful lot of work for a job crane that only lifts 1 tonne, in my opinion.
A fixed jib crane only reaches as far as it reaches and that’s it.
My shops a lot smaller than yours (~450 ft ^2 - with just some wood working machines and a 14x40 lathe & a Bridgeport mill.
I bought recently a mobile gantry crane (yep out of China) 🙄 for $Aud 1000 that’s on castor wheels and moves easily about the shop & has a 1 tonne block and tackle (endless chain) hoist on a girder trolley.
It will lift any of the machines in my shop.
I also have a electric hoist lifts about half a tonne that I’m going to buy another girder trolley and hand the electric hoist on one side of the gantry and the endless chain hoist on the other and I ca n use either depending on what weight I have to lift.
It’s shown in this video on UA-cam that I just recently uploaded a couple weeks back about my new lathe, but the gantry crane is in the video towards the end (scroll past the lathe if you don’t have time to watch it all).
ua-cam.com/video/JFcVNywya-Q/v-deo.htmlsi=DFOmbRPLH8SSZQJo
In $US that would be only ~ $650 tops.
Would that not be a whole lot less work and more versatile for your shop - you could move it anywhere you want, straddle a lathe if you want etc, and when your not using it park it out the way until you do next need it.
I’m now wondering how the heck I ever managed without mine now that I have it
This is the link to where I bought mine downunder, pretty much guaranteed someone in USA is importing these from China as well.
www.machineryhouse.com.au/k088
Just food for thought, might save you a whole heap of work & time to devote to other projects maybe?
From memory it’s about 10 or 11 feet wide and can raise up to about the same height as it is wide. It will straddle a vehicle for eg if you had to remove an engine & gear box as an example.
It might even straddle both your big lathes and with the girder trolley you could shift workpieces or chucks etc between lathes.
Hope this might help. I’m not associated with the company or the product, just a satisfied customer.
Cheers.
He already has a gantry.
@@TgWags69 I thought I remembered seeing him use a mobile gantry when he was restoring that long bed machine some time back.
I guess he knows what he wants / needs, and the best way to go about it.
Just seems like a lot of work & expense to lift 1 tonne if he already has a mobile gantry that would do the job, was what caused me to comment.
wow a 5x5x4' footing sounds waaaaay to much. An automotive lift is installed in a 6" slab all day long and they hold 2.5 tons a side with a pretty similar reach as your jib crane. I mean I could see a 12" slab but not 4'.
The load from an automotive lift is not cantilevered. This is typical for a jib crane of this size.
Gantry Crane would serve you better. Or maybe one of those stand on forklifts.
Please saw cut the slab frist
2014? First
may 4th? today is 4/23/24.
spoke to soon..I get it now.
Please don’t warn us when you decide to stop lying!¡!
ngl
WOW- massive overkill- realistically that little crane you have now would work fine with a rolling trolley and if you moved your lathes around a bit so it reaches both. For that once every 10 years occasion you need to lift something heavier than a chuck, just use your gantry. That vertical support beam would easily support a heavier jib crane, because I'm sure it is sitting in a heavy foundation, and a top rotating support would eliminate the leverage against the base.
That little crane isn't sufficient at all, we've seen it bow in previous videos. Trust me mate, Keith wouldn't make a ruckus over it if he didn't have a reason for it. Big lathe needs a big crane.
@@aserta I saw the video too, it bowed a bit but did the job and that was on that massive capstan casting. Keith's only complaint at that time was that it didn't have a rolling trolley. One has to ask how many times am I going to do this in my lifetime to justify a massive crane. Keith is no spring chicken.
Why didn’t you just get a gantry crane for 2000 lbs on wheels , it could go all over the shop and be put out of the way when not in use and all you do it’s pay for it and use it ?besides if you move the machines the crane is not locked down to one spot .
looking for a freebee again
More like a pay it forward kind of thing.
Just a suggestion you should consider proving the video when it becomes irrelevant.