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The Creepy Clutch! - Hydraulic Clutch Master Cylinder Rebuild and FULL Bleed - KTM 690 Enduro
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- Опубліковано 24 кві 2020
- Sorting out the creeping clutch.... The bike has been creeping with the clutch pulled in so I figured I'd use the lockdown to get this sorted. Was pretty straight forward but I did need some help!
RideyBikesMoto
Shop - rdbl.co/2W1IpLj
690 Endless Merch - rdbl.co/2zn2lQT
Tools for the job
The pliers - amzn.to/3cJJVbB
Mineral Oil - amzn.to/2VDnKOu
The Clutch Repair Kit for 690 and others - bit.ly/2S6YGNL
Haha! Makes me glad I’ve got a cable clutch. Thanks for fixing it btw. ;)
Mish Maudsley No worries... I should’ve filmed that too! 😹
Like a 1950's American voting station 😅.
And my beta master rebuild was $60 and had fewer parts! I'm also not sure what was more annoying, getting the circlip in or priming the master
“Yess I have four hands now 👍” 🤣🤣🤣
Good video, simply explained. Definitely helpful. Many thanks👍👍👍
Glad it was helpful! 👍🏽
An American polling station... Hahahaha, good one! Great vid. I just bled mine and had the handle seize completely yesterday! Excessively hot weather, but hardly called for behavior, imo. Luckily, I'm huge, and powerful, and the frozen (welded?) lever popped free with a massive squeeze. Which was good, as I was racing at a stop sign coming off the freeway....
I don’t have a KTM ... but I still found it interesting .. nice one :) Ridy
You don’t have a KTM... yet! You’ll get that 790!!!
Thank man this help a lot
Glad it helped
hello what is second cable on clutch
It’s either the cable coming from the heated grip or the clutch switch that tells the exit when the clutch is engaged.
did your clutch slip before you made this change?
The opposite. The clutch remained slightly engaged with the lever pulled completely in.
Reverse bleeding the clutch with a syringe from the bottom takes 10 seconds. Thats also recomended way of doing it in the manual.
Yes it is! Tried that time and time again. Tried it with my current full rebuild. Unfortunately top down gives me the best feel. You can imagine how annoyed I was last week after the 6th attempt to reverse bleed a new system with new slave with a syringe still resulted in a little clutch drag. Top down took way longer but solved the problem. Logic says it should be better the reverse way but not for me. 👍🏽
was curious why you did it top down on a KTM, scrolled and found answer.
after doing a car i don't mind the time it takes to do a bikes brake now :D
did it work?
I have the 690sm 2007, and clutch has been licking fluid along the lever
I have the kit like you did, but the problem remains
Thus I am thinking I need to replace the pump
Any suggestions or thoughts?
Yeah it worked for me. If your problem persists then it could be that your barrel has become scored or oval shaped. If it hadn’t worked for me I would’ve gotten the master re-sleeved rather than buying a new master. 👍🏽
@@RideyBikes this is exactly what I did!
My friend (the mechanic) knows a guy who does that
So we send the master cylinder to that technician in another city
The man indeed re-sleeved the cylinder, and it worked for months
Unfortunatelly when the summer came, it started licking again
I put back the old piston (!) and it was ok
But few days ago, it started licking again
So what the hell, I'm tired of this, I'm buying a new one from Magura, not Ktm because they charge it almost double price, but from Magura and finally solve the problem
I called the local dealer of Magura today and it is out of stock now, but it is already ordered by the dealer, thus it will be here in around a week
And hopefully my trouble will be ended!
Sorry for the long message
Cheers from Athens, Greece
@@Spyros.ts13 Who did the re-sleeve for you?
@@RideyBikes some craftsman who I've never met, and probably never will
However, work indeed has been done
It is not that the cylinder was delivered back to me the way is was sent
There is evidence of work done
Thanks for the video. The issue I'm having is that it feels the clutch lever is returning too slowly sometimes, which causes the clutch to slip. Could this be the master cylinder needing a rebuild? (already changed the slave cylinder to Oberon and new clutch plate kit).
Hard to tell without seeing it but I’d imagine there may be some build up of ‘matter’ in the same place I found loads of mud. Also, could the lever bolt be too tight or corroded?? Cheers
@@RideyBikes Little correction: the clutch lever actually returns instantly, but it feels as if it (the piston?) returns with a few seconds delay sometimes. This causes slipping especially when banging fast through the gears or pulling wheelies.
When’s the last time you rebuilt the master? You don’t (if you’re careful) even really need to bleed the system. Can be quite quick.
@@RideyBikes I've never rebuilt it and it's a 2014 bike with 13,000km.
@@santaon2wheels600 well... rebuilding it is not a hard job to do and once you’ve done it it becomes quite surprising that it doesn’t fail more often. A simple grain of sand getting past the seal could mess with the piston. .. . Have just re-read your initial message. ..Could this issue not just be clutch slip?? I bought my bike with 20k on the clock and it had def had the clutch rebuilt. Have you changed the oil recently to a different oil? Are you using motorex 10w60? I did use generic 600mls 10w40 once as I didn’t realise I only had a litre of the motorex and it was a tiny bit slippy. What was the condition of the clutch push rod when you changed to the Oberon slave and new clutch discs? Were the clutch discs good quality? At this point I’m just about finished rebuilding my engine and honestly clutch slip could be so many things.
If it’s a 14 that’s not had new clutch fluid I’d say that’s long overdue anyway. Might as well change the master internals too. Make sure the levels are right and it’s the correct mineral oil too.
I think fresh engine oil every 1k miles with motorex 10w60 is always a good idea. The oil is usually surprisingly dark even at 1k.
If that doesn’t solve it drain that oil straight back out (or lay the bike slightly over) and start having a look at the clutch. Check that clutch push rod too if that has been out or messed with recently. Again a tiny bit of dirt could make that rod move slower.
Hard to know without having the bike in front of me. Hope some of this helps.
Cheers
Is it still creeping forward after this?
Oh no not at all! Completely solved the problem.
the fluid level rises with increasing wear of the clutch plates, the fluid level must be 4mm lower than the top level. if you top it fully then you destroy your pumpapapandclutch. use hydraulic fluid not DOT
Isn't that the point or one of the main design features of the rubber diaphragm in the reservoir?
Even if you accidentally overfill the reservoir, placing the cap and rubber diaphragm into the fluid forces out the excess. Not the ideal way to level off the fluid as it obviously makes quite a mess but provided the diaphragm is inserted before the cap is put on and it is not in any way perished or damaged, it should be nigh on impossible to overfill the reservoir as the diaphragm literally creates a space for any raise in the fluid level.
To be honest I think even 4mm lower would still overflow when the the diaphragm goes in. Will check when I put the bike back together in a week or so.
When you say 'use hydraulic fluid not DOT', are you saying I shouldn't have used the Rock Oil Mineral Clutch Fluid Oil??
I've been repeatedly told I can just use Johnsons Baby Oil. Haven't tried it though.
Cheers
@@RideyBikes uh youtube is so bad with telling mé that someone answered. yea I'm just typing it for fun, nothing wrong with the vid.