Are You Using the Wrong Threadlocker?
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- Опубліковано 28 сер 2024
- SDI: www.sdi.edu/iv...
In this video, we discuss the proper applications for thread-locking compounds when used on various firearms components and accessories. There is a such thing as too much guys.
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Cross threading is the ultimate threadlocker
Actually, before threadlocker marring the threads was actually an acceptable method
Green threadlocker does the same thing and it makes for a more secure fit without damaging the threads
Only once!
I hardly even needed to use locktite on my guns. Never had any problems.
@greenspiraldragon heeheehee. Go shoot 5-600 rounds in an hour or so and tell me if you'd like some loctite. People that don't use loctite......don't run their guns. They may shoot a couple boxes from a bench throughout the day, but most people don't ever see passing gear in their AR.
A vortex customer service representative recommended that I use clear nail polish as threadlocker and I've never looked back never had a problem. Handles vibration and heat like nothing and breaks loose with not much torque when actually trying to remove something.
I've used it as well with good results.
I'll keep that in my mind if I'm ever in a pinch but I think I'm gonna stick with the stuff made for the job assuming I have access to proper thread locker
"Thread-lock lacquer" was the compound used before modern compounds were developed, and you still see it in some applications (electronics, fine adjustment screws, etc.).
It makes a great low torque threadlocker, especially small stuff like electronics and eyeglass screws..
Galco Holsters actually recommends nail polish in their printed instructions. They also state to not use loctite on their adjustment screws.
I’ve used a brass hammer to tap all around a muzzle device to break down rocksett. Works every time
I have spent many hours pondering thread locker but in the end I felt stuck. Nothing was turning up there.
Good one
😂
How clever . . .
I use Vibra-Tite VC-3 Threadmate. I purchased the bottle option. It has the ability to hold fast yet you are awarded the ability to "rework" two times before you need to use Acetone to remove the old and apply again. It doesn't harden and remains flexible but after the second rework it starts to ball up making it hard to turn.
As a vet the snipers I had as friends use this product.
Blue and Purple work well.
The reason why people have used Green Loctite on a barrel is because a competition shooter would Shim and Loctite his competition barrels with great success. It reduced groups to Sub MOA, but he explicitly said it was on a single purpose competition rifle that would see only intermittent use because removing the barrel required a blow torch and a lotta sweat.
I use Vibra-Tite for most firearms applications. It is the type of stuff that Magpul uses. It is used for anti-vibration purposes and has never failed to help fasteners stay on, nor has it ever given me trouble to get them back off.
Vibra-Tite VC3 Threadmate, yup, it's way better than Blue or Red Loctite, which can easily strip screws. ADM, who make some of the best mounts in the industry (and ambi lowers) only recommend VC3, and provide a sample with every mount order.
@@josh48315 How does it hold up to heat?
@Justin I use Vibra-Tite VC3 on AR handguard screws, scope mount screws, grip screws & nuts, etc., pretty much anywhere on a firearm where screws, bolts, nuts are present. It holds up well to any heat encountered in those locations. I think it's rated up to 200°F or 250°F, but I cannot remember & don't have time right now to look it up. For barrel nuts and muzzle devices, I use Aero Shell, the proper torque required by the manufacturer, and if called for, the appropriate type washer, lock nut, etc. Using those 2 primary methods, I have never had anything loosen against my will.
Yup....ADM certainly suggests Vibra-Tite. The VC3 even comes with their mounts.
If all else fails, read the instructions. It's meant to be applied to the threads and allowed to cure. Then assemble.
I use Vibra-Tite on most things with success. The only thing it hasn’t held is when I replaced the charging handle on my Ruger PCC. The handle would loosen after about 20 rounds. Had to use Loctite. But VC3 is great otherwise.
I like the purple loctite for scope rings.
I've always been a big fan of purple loctite for small screws that don't get heat. Blue is probably overkill for the smaller screws based on the data on Loctite's site. With regard to cleaning the threads, there are differences between compounds. For example Loctite 271 really needs clean threads, but 272 can tolerate a small amount of oily residue (and there's a blue loctite that does also does). I keep both, because there are times where it's not easy to clean the threads perfectly. I guess I could be less lazy lol.
I use loctite blue because it’s removable not permanent like the red.
As a mechanic, I can tell you only the smallest and weakest bolts will get damaged or break from being removed without heat when red loctite is used. If you red loctite a scope base onto a bolt action receiver, you can still unscrew it
I was at an aerospace conference and ran across the Henkel booth. I was asking one of the chemical engineers about the lifespan of various Loctite compounds, and he emphasized that for the liquid products, you shouldn't touch the bottle's tip to the part, as a sufficient transfer of ferrous ions could cause the compound to solidify in the bottle.
That explains alot. Never thought about ferrous ions cross contamination.
@@tubeonline629That's how loctite works-by accessing the metal's elements. So, if there's any coating blocking access to the bare metal then loctites primer is needed.
I use the low strenght purple Loctite for the finest screws on firearms. The blue version can ruin them if applied to much.
Blue Loctite 242 is what I put on everything that has a chance of backing out on its own. It has yet to fail me all these years.
I've found that using the tip of a toothpick to dab from a drop or locktite, and apply where needed, works very well. Especially with small and fine threaded components. A little goes a long way.
I use blue exclusively. Scope bases, and sometimes rings. All torqued with less than spec when threadlocker is used.
Made the mistake of bedding my Adams Arms Piston gas block by slathering the barrel in a nice thick coat of Loctite 609 green retaining compound... then later realized it was misaligned. The reason I did it to begin with was I was having short stroking issues and was trying to seal around the gas port as good as physically possible (was doing a piston conversion on a 12.5" mid-length gas i.e. needing compensate for short dwell time and had already opened up the gas port to .125 ). Had to use a torch with a very uncomfortable amount of heat, a large brass punch, sledge hammer, and lots of patience. Luckily no permanent damage resulted.
When I worked at the shipyard, I know there were different types of anti-sieze... zinc based, copper based and moly based. Different uses for different metals. I was a welder, so I don't know which was used for which, but I know pipe shop and electrical shop procedures called for different compounds on different material combinations. The ship used zinc sacrificial anodes. Basically which ever material is higher on the galvanic scale will be dissolved and preserve the other. Zinc is more of an anode than steel, but some aluminum alloys are more of an anode than zinc. Check the charts.
Copper will be a bad day for aluminum alloys
@@watermann8200 Why? I have copper antiseize. Are you saying don't use it on my upper or lower?
Red on everything.... Super hot gas block; red. lower receiver extension tube; red. Safety selector spring; red. Iron sight adjustments; red.
Orange thread lock works amazing
Purple threadlocker works well for scope rings as well.
I use shoe goo & JB weld mix... always flexible and bullet proof
Like the hair cut brother! Doesn't change who you are either way! Love your work. You and Eric are good people.
God bless all here.
Purple (222) loctite is "low strength" and specifically designed for small screws like scope bases have.
I’ve had a little thing of aeroshell grease that has lasted years. Also been using blue loctite stick that works great. Great video as always
I specifically use Loctite 243 blue. It has the same medium hold as 242 blue, but has two advantages: 243 doesn't need a primer or more prep like 242 does, and also 243 is oil resistant, and can even be applied on threads that have a slight oil coating. Being oil resistant is good news for those concerned with areas that need to be cleaned and oiled later. A small drop works well on scope mounts, pistol grips, handguards, pretty much anything you don't want to move but don't want to be permanent either.
I've never used red Loctite on any of my guns. I've had some gun parts come with a small one-use tube of red Loctite or Vibratite before, but again never used them. It's overkill. And I've also had some of those disposable one-use tubes show up and the stuff inside is already halfway set up or degraded while still sealed.
Rival Arms was using red Loctite on their stainless steel guide rods and it was NOT curing properly! I was able to unscrew the end cap WITH MY FINGERS! I cleaned the threads with 99.99% isopropyl alcohol and then used LocTite 243 with the built in primer on the threads and it set up quickly.
@@PierceThirlen2Most professionals don't understand how to use loctite properly regarding their primer. I don't understand the lack of knowledge.
@@5jjt I don't understand it either. Loctite makes more than one primer, but many autoparts stores don't stock ANY primer. NOT to mention that Loctite makes many different formulations of Loctite for special applications that you must often order though industrial suppliers.
personally, for vibration resistance I always just used purple, it's the weakest for strength. use green for giant gaps.
I used to work in the aerospace production facility and we rarely ever used red, it was typically green, low strength, blue, medium strength and purple I can’t remember what it was, and at the most we would run a very thin line halfway down the threads and never had issue
I use blue 242 on optics but just a smidge. I use it on gas blocks too, provided the barrel is dimpled and gas block is properly torqued.
I've always used the BLUE, but found out the hard way the RED is also in a blue bottle and bought one by mistake. Got to try the Red once though and man is that stuff TOUGH. I used it on a bolt to bond to a bushing I needed to do some grinding on. I needed the bushing NOT to turn. Worked great. Getting the bushing back off the bolt was a challenge though. I had to heat up the bolt VERY hot, like SMOKING hot, using a propane torch to get the Red to let loose. Amazing stuff.
I did assembly of aircraft parts.
Blue is for when you want it removable when you need it gone.
Red is if you really don't want it to come off but you might have to remove it because it broke.
Green assembly is to only be used it you want to throw it away before removing it.
Dude from Georgia taught me a ton in US Navy, now I’ve learned a ton from IV8888
Good information about gunsmith guys. Take care and be safe. See you on your next video.
I’ve always used blue on my Glock front sights and have never had one come loose. Granted I’m not a competition shooter and don’t shoot extended strings of fire but I’ve really heated it up before with no I’ll effects.
silencerco ships there muzzle devices with rockset, i took one off before i had to put the tip of the barrel in boiling water and wrench it off
The guys at Vortex recommend not using loctite on scope bases and rings. They say that loctite acts like a lubricant on the threads and can potentially make you over-torque the screws. I always use loctite anyway because I've had screws walk out on me before even when torquing the screws to manufaturer's suggested specifications.
On my muzzle devices I started using the thin jam nuts with the red lock tite, the nut makes those stupid frustrating timing washers a distant memory.
Any you recommend? Do you use them on suppressor mounts or just breaks, flash hiders, etc
@@ghost101049 You can use them on anything you want to stay put or time. I have Silencer Co ASR mounts where I can switch my 30 cal silencer to any of the rifles I want to use.
Thank you Chad for donating your hair to Wigs for Kids, that is very commendable thing to do. That organization makes wigs for children with cancer who lose their hair from the treatments.
Another good vid. Pertaining adhesives. Lock Tite has a chart for their adhesives that is priceless. The DoD/DoE goes into this much deeper pertaining their products. Go figure. I have mounted many scopes, mounts, etc. in the firearms arena. I prefer 241 (med strength) or 271 (Hi strength). NEVER USE RED LOCK TITE. A Permanent adhesive to be removed with torch only. And this heat can and will destroy parts of any firearm. As to ANTI SEIZE, absolutely. NO question about it. Works on the finest threads or a 12" 400* steam pipe. Then abandoned (with water in it) for years to be repaired. If Anti seize was put on the joint, some work needed. No Anti Seize, joints are rust welded in place. Nothing a cutting torch with a big tip can't fix.
Also, torque setting changes when fasteners are wet and/or dry. Fasteners should be cleaned with Aceton. Torgue specs also change while going thru multiple dissimilar materials. Piece of cake dudes
Peace from Texas
I use locktite retaining compound on other applications involving press fit bearings. It sticks on there and won't let go. This kind of stuff is no joke!
Gálvanic Corrosión on different metals ? Learned all about it when trying to get an aluminum water hose end off of a brass water spigot. Had been stuck there for 6 years when I bought my house. Only use hoses with brass ends and still put grease. Good video. I started using clear nail poly( Small dab ) about sixty years ago. Don’t no any other way. Keep up the good work. New to the channel & YT. Got my 9 year old granddaughter to hook me up.
I recently bought a Sporterized Type 99 Arisaka(original stock but cut) for cheap. Got it home and tried to disassemble it to check for cleanliness and condition of parts. The screws for the actual action (underneath the bolt by the magazine) will not move at all and are already a bit messed up from someone trying (starting to look like hourglasses). I don't understand why someone would do that. I'm hoping whoever did cleaned it well enough before doing so, but I have no way to know. I'm afraid to try cold water in case it's not the correct type of lock for that, then I'm just introducing water to places that I won't be able to access. Heat is pretty much out too without damaging the wood in some way. It was a cheap rifle so I can't complain too much, but it does bother me not knowing the condition under the wood.
Great content and I like seeing the two of you together
For Elftmann triggers, you definitely should use some blue loctite. I found out the hard way during a competition when my rifle acted up after about 500 rounds on a new trigger. The screws backed out, lost a trigger pin, etc. I then put in anti-rotation trigger pins and then encounted random failure to fire issues. Once I took everything apart and used the blue loctite, all my problems went away. I believe the Elftmann set screws even had some dried blue loctite even so now I would use my own loctite for next trigger upgrade.
The Green wicking grade Loctite is a medium strength too. It is designed for you to torque to specifications and then apply. It will creep into the air spaces between threads then after cure time works as the others
I’m using the purple stuff, because it’s the most flexible.
There is now a high strength blue out. Almost made the mistake when grabbing the reguar blue.
Great info! Thank you. You guys put out superb stuff.
Avoid Red lock tite unless you want to rethread that bit of metal.
Blue is fine unless you're planning on taking said portions apart.
If you JB weld anything on a firearm, you might have bigger problems.
Heat works on red and jb weld. Some factories use red as a thread sealant. It takes surprisingly it does not take that much.
Not very common in firearms but you absolutely have to use Never-Seize on stainless to stainless components, otherwise they will Gaul together and it’s almost impossible to get apart.
Had drop in sleeved stud anchors made of stainless, I should have applied anti-seize, those nuts are never coming off. 😳
Great episode I really like he nerdy technical videos !
@ 18:30 "Dissimilar Metal Corrosion"(galvanic). Other types are intergranular corrosion(corrosion inside the grain of the metal), fretting corrosion (surfaces rubbing together), pitting corrosion, uniform corrosion, there are more, these are just what I can think of.
And when you clean your muzzle, check for the crown/barrel end to be totally at 90 degrees to the barrel. If it isn't, your round is being 'pushed' in the direction of the low spot.
blue loctite covers the majority of what you ever need to do
Only thing on a gun I’ll use red thread lock is on action screws. And that’s only if it’s absolutely necessary
I typically will use blue threadlocker compound but If it's not meant to move like barrel threads I'll definitely use red....
Dissimilar metal contact corrosion is Galvanic corrosion. Learned that in Aviation Maintenance school
I may have used some sleeve retaining compound between the upper receiver and the barrel extension on a couple rifles....I guess that'll just be the way it is...
For high heat applications (like a muzzle device) i've used Permatex copper high temp silicone, once it gets to temp the copper bonds to the metal, but you can still get it off. I just figured if it worked on my o2 sensors, why not.
Chad - that's awesome. You rock the gray wolf!!
If your metal has any sort of coating, Loctite says their primer is needed for many of their formulas.
IV8888, can you guys try Vibratite for a while and see how that goes?
It works on the principle of acting as a pliable resin that absorbs vibration, which allows the thread's to stay tight.
This is a great vid guys!
Have y’all ever tried Hot-Lock?
To me it’s the perfect solution over Rocksett.
I use also use low strength purple loctite on tons of stuff. Great temperature resistance, but lighter hold than blue loctite, great for small weak screws.
Good job guys
A soldering iron works well at targeting bolts/screws/nuts with red locktite.
PURPLE!!! Purple people!! Purple is for the smaller screws, like you see in firearms. Read the instructions. The blue is rated for certain sizes, as is the purple. So few know purple exist. It will save you many a headache. READ the instructions
I made the mistake of using orange. I had to drill everything I used it on. For Harleys it’s nice tho
On my 509 Tactical, the mounting system that uses an o-ring states that loctite of any kind was not required for the red dot would not be required because of that design, I figured "Okay, I'll follow the instructions" Torqued it down properly, went on a range day outside, when shooting, came home, and noticed I lost one of the mounting screws. Was totally pissed off, after that, those screws got loctite weather FN America said to or not.
Hey guys, question for you. I watched a video from Criterion about improving barrel accuracy and in the video, Chris (I think that’s his name) said that he always puts a sleeve thread locker on the barrel extension before placing in upper receiver. Apparently, they do that for all the upper receivers they build up!
Anyway, I thought that was a great idea and was going to do it to some builds I’m working on. Can you please explain, why I should or shouldn’t use it in this area since this is essentially a bearing surface mating area.
Thanks for your input.
Cheers,
Mach
There are special gap filling compounds, seems it's used to fill the gaps in different diameter areas such as barrel extensions, gas blocks. I've had some barrel extension/receiver fitments that are very loose and some where I needed to warm up the receiver to even get extension started. I have only used aeroshell 33 on the extension and threads. I too would like to hear their opinion on these compounds.
Nice to see Chad more. God bless fellas
purple locktite on scope rings.
Both skinny Eric & haircut Chad are very handsome and videos are greatly appreciated. No homo. 🤣
Red N Tacky Is Great Multiple Purpose Grease For Automotive Components Like A CV Axle.
Chad& Eric..on locking compounds..Loctite brand does have a limited shelf life, so buy the small bottle, also for several years now Loctite brand is making a locking paste , it comes in a tube about the size of a lipstick tube , same formulas but a paste instead of liquid. To touch on anti sieze id use copper based NOT zinc based...keep em in the x-ring😎
for a lot of things i just use fingernail polish.....it keeps screws from backing out but you can break it with good force. Never had one back out.
Thanks for the good Info hair looking great
Threadlocker video after a Brace video. You guys think of everything LOL
I've got a dumb question for the amusement of all. Is the red "loctite" that's supplied in xs sights "red loctite" or something proprietary?
I’ve talked to someone at XS and he said once loctited down it is considered disposable. He said they designed the front sight to be broken to remove it. I use blue.
I use red and then sell it.
Orange is the answer.
Retaining compound is no joke… BCM uses a high temp version when installing their gas blocks. Getting those off is a pain in the rear. To the point I question the strength of the barrel with the amount of heat needed. Using. High temp heat gun is a bit better than a torch, as point temps are kept in check better.
Hair looks good Chad, I feel like you missed a great mullet opportunity 😂 also, rocket needs to be in every hardware store and Home Depot in the USA.
I'm not using the wrong thread locker but the boys over at CZ on the ol scorpian evo 3 barrel/muzzle device assembly line sure are.
I always loved these questions, like I'm a nerd
Good for Chad donating his hair for the kids. Very cool.
I use red on Glock MOS plates. Got tired of blue not holding. I cake it on , let it cure a few minutes , then put the screws in.
The short screws on the marlin 1895 either need regular torquing or a drop of blue. They are not something you want to drop in the woods.
Usually blue. Sometimes on my holster i use the green fo after assembly.
Watch out for the new guidelines
Does it actually expire? They say one year if the package is open and 2 if it’s unopened but Iv used some that was at least 4 years old and worked fine. I wonder how true it is maybe it last a little longer than they say but still goes bad eventually.
It'll last at least a decade at room temp as long as its sealed.
@@aaronj08ar if you have experience with it then I Believe it. If mine is 4 years old and still works I can see with proper storage up to 10 years. Just seems like a money scheme. Maybe it loses 2% of strength after a year and that’s why they say it’s no good buy more!😂
You can store a lot of stuff like this upside down and it will blow your mind how long it will last.
And Chad, such an awesome sacrifice.
On a shotgun barrel extension what loctite would be recommended? Also it doesnt torque down either, you have to tighten it all the way and then back it off a hair for everything to line up
Great information on lock-tite
My dad and I found out about the green stuff beating a BCM gas block off a barrel with a piece of 2x4 and a 3lb mallet.
Loctite 222
Purple for scopes. And Rocksett for muzzle devices
Once it's a rifle barrel on a rifle frame, then you sleeve the obvious baffle line filter for suppression and it's not a felony?
Good info 👍
If the filter is 7" long, can weld it to the 10.5" bbl'd pistol kit
So… should I take my muzzle brake off and apply rockset instead of red locktite before I shoot my suppressor?
You can't pin weld the reducer nipple (the hyped 1/2 28 that goes into an oil filter) or an oilfilter?