Carburetors are made from an alloy of 70% (+) zinc, magnesium, 2% lead. The lead seals the casting from leakage. Carburetors that are die-cast are usually Aluminum which is porous then treated. Once cleaned and washed with hot water, the metal dries. It has to be re-hydrated in a stoddard solvent, kerosene or mineral oil. Stoddard solvent has a high flash point and commonly used in “Safety-Clean” parts washer. Then dried with compressed air. Carburetors bodies will absorb lubricant into the metal alloy of the carb and sintered bronze bushings. This comes from Rochester, Mikuni, Zenith, Bendix-Stromberg and others including Autolite. This helps reduce throttle shaft bushing wear or eliminates it. Never spray lubricant or oil in these places (Secondaries if Equipped) as it attacks dirt & dust, acceleration wear. Alway check for lateral movement in a throttle shaft as it then becomes an air leak at idle. If possible, use a blunt punch to stake the metal body around the shaft in 3 locations using the correct radius punch from Rochester gauge kit. The bushings can be drilled out and replaced if real bad. Rochester, Autolite and Mikuni recommend using stainless steel wool to polish the shaft were it rides on bushing. Do not bead blast the shaft, polish. SS Wool is now sold as Dollar General or the Dollar Store. Making a high quality alternative to online purchases at 1/5th the money. In the 70’s it was sold in metal & cardboard (Called Ham Cans) that used a red string to open, available thru Delco. DK, ASE master tech since 78.
For almost 30 years, CRC sold a carb dunk solution of 5 gallons in a 6 gallon can. It came with a small parts bucket. I have the Original Delco book 12. This is a hard-book with parts at the front, updates, then 1,200+ pages with pilots of every Rochester built since 1955. It has detailed setting, adjustment and specs by model. So if I took a Q-Jet, I can pick jets, needles, secondary spring setting just everything to make it a 1968 Corvette with 350 cu in engine. The book is 4-5” thick. I have the metal “White/Orange” Rochester tool box complete. It has 36 valuable gauge round blocks w/knurled handles and the size in decimal white stamped. Tools designed to bend hardened linkage as well. I rebuilt hundreds if not thousands and when the dealer closed, the service manage gave it to me.
Distilled water and Oil Eater. 4:1. Be aware, Oil Eater will leave a slimy film on the carbs after cleaning. Dunk in clean distilled water. Then use some compressed air to clean out the passages. -JD
Carburetors are made from an alloy of 70% (+) zinc, magnesium, 2% lead. The lead seals the casting from leakage. Carburetors that are die-cast are usually Aluminum which is porous then treated. Once cleaned and washed with hot water, the metal dries. It has to be re-hydrated in a stoddard solvent, kerosene or mineral oil. Stoddard solvent has a high flash point and commonly used in “Safety-Clean” parts washer. Then dried with compressed air. Carburetors bodies will absorb lubricant into the metal alloy of the carb and sintered bronze bushings. This comes from Rochester, Mikuni, Zenith, Bendix-Stromberg and others including Autolite. This helps reduce throttle shaft bushing wear or eliminates it. Never spray lubricant or oil in these places (Secondaries if Equipped) as it attacks dirt & dust, acceleration wear. Alway check for lateral movement in a throttle shaft as it then becomes an air leak at idle. If possible, use a blunt punch to stake the metal body around the shaft in 3 locations using the correct radius punch from Rochester gauge kit. The bushings can be drilled out and replaced if real bad. Rochester, Autolite and Mikuni recommend using stainless steel wool to polish the shaft were it rides on bushing. Do not bead blast the shaft, polish. SS Wool is now sold as Dollar General or the Dollar Store. Making a high quality alternative to online purchases at 1/5th the money. In the 70’s it was sold in metal & cardboard (Called Ham Cans) that used a red string to open, available thru Delco.
DK, ASE master tech since 78.
Can this guy carburetor, or what? 👏
Amazing comment. Thank you.
-JD
Wish I had one of these 35 years ago when I was rebuilding dual-barrel and Q-jet carbs for my cars. Great addition for any shadetree mechanic!
For almost 30 years, CRC sold a carb dunk solution of 5 gallons in a 6 gallon can. It came with a small parts bucket. I have the Original Delco book 12. This is a hard-book with parts at the front, updates, then 1,200+ pages with pilots of every Rochester built since 1955. It has detailed setting, adjustment and specs by model. So if I took a Q-Jet, I can pick jets, needles, secondary spring setting just everything to make it a 1968 Corvette with 350 cu in engine. The book is 4-5” thick. I have the metal “White/Orange” Rochester tool box complete. It has 36 valuable gauge round blocks w/knurled handles and the size in decimal white stamped. Tools designed to bend hardened linkage as well. I rebuilt hundreds if not thousands and when the dealer closed, the service manage gave it to me.
Stop drinking for two days. Fill a bucket with solvent, pick bucket up. Instant vibrations.
😱 Two whole days? Not for me. Easier to buy the ultrasonic cleaner and stay lit.
-JD
What do you use for the liquid in the cleaner
Distilled water and Oil Eater. 4:1.
Be aware, Oil Eater will leave a slimy film on the carbs after cleaning. Dunk in clean distilled water. Then use some compressed air to clean out the passages.
-JD
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Make it in the USA and I'll buy it, otherwise no sale.
😂😂😂