I wish I could find somebody near where I live in the UK who was as knowledgable as you are. I can’t find a luthier here who’s willing to work on my mid 60’s bass. It needs the neck reset and I’ve got the same dead E string issue. Thanks for the video.
Not just on new basses either, older basses and archtop instruments can alter over time causing gaps under the bridge. Same procedure as long as you have enough height overall. Great vid, the difference in tone was really obvious and sounds so much sweeter now
I did basically the same with my China Hofner bridge. I did the flashlight test. I sanded until the light didn't show through underneath the bridge. It helped even the resonance noticeably. These floating bridges are tricky to intonate. Trying to find a happy medium is about best that can be done. String height is as important as string distance. The metal fret looking wire in the bridge slot, I call "string or bridge saddle". Because the string sets on the saddle, like cowboy sets on his horse. I carefully use a very small diameter round file on the string saddle for the best string fit. Another trick I discovered with my bass, was to place the two center saddles in the same slot. The outside saddles are, big string is one slot back from the nut and the small string, one slot closer to the nut. The intonation is as about as close you can get with this type of bridge. I'm all over the neck, so for me it's has to be close. I use LaBella Low Tension Flats. .042, .056, .075, .100. They're a little beefier than the regulars adding more thump. When needed, I mute with my palm. I've seen pictures McCartney using a sponge or some kind of foam. Do you or anyone know much about what Paul used for this effect on many of his recordings? Great to see you back, Backbeat!
You have great patience and truly a master craftsman did you study at a school to start off or where you able to learn on your own getting tips from others or looking at manuals for hollow body instruments plus you have the workings of the electronic system it's easy to see by looking at your back wall that hofner basses are your favorites where you a fan of the beatles or just taken a back by these beautiful basses I'm hoping you allow some time at the end of one of your videos to give us the chance to hear you play whatever your favorite bass lines might be you mentioned that you where in a cover band do you do beatles covers I'm quite sure that your playing abilities are incredible you must have a perfect ear when you can pick up on these very slight tonal differences I hope you at least consider a small demo of your playing that would be awsome thanks again for another informative repair.
Hi Russell. I learned this via the school of hard knocks. I actually went to art college in the 70’s in boston and spent a lot of time visiting a luthiers studio who I befriended. I ended up building my first guitar while in college which I also submitted as my final art school project. Always favored the hofner violin basses. Thanks for the compliments. EJ
Nice demonstration man. I have to do that again with the bridge for this archtop kit, I switched from the fixed-post Gibson style they intended to a Gretsch style floating bridge. I like the method you use better than mine in a couple places. Thanks for sharing.
So glad you uploaded this. I finally upgraded from my ignition to a new German Hofner 63 relic edition, however the bridge under the E string is sitting on a corner and can fit paper under it on the opposing corners. But, the E string doesn’t sound dead to my ears, so do you think this type of project is required? It also seems they’ve made changes to the relic edition since your video. Less orange as well as changes to the aging process more consistent with what you preferred.
Hi, if it has good tone then leave it but remember as it ages or as the strings age and all of a sudden the string goes dead to apply this process. Good news on the coloring.
Been a fan of your videos for years. Thanks for posting. I have a question for you or anyone on this comments section. I have a vox t100 cab with 2x15's that I got from North Coast just before they stopped making them. It is wired for 16ohms at 800 watts. Can you safely work this cab with a 500 watt orange terror head at 8 ohms? If not, what head is available that provides the appropriate ohms output? Thank you for your time.
thanks for taking the time for this !
I wish I could find somebody near where I live in the UK who was as knowledgable as you are. I can’t find a luthier here who’s willing to work on my mid 60’s bass. It needs the neck reset and I’ve got the same dead E string issue. Thanks for the video.
Very helpful. Thank you!!
I am so pleased to see you produce a video again…..
Hope you and your family are well.
Regards…. Alan from Scotland
Thanks Alan. Same to you and yours.
A wonderful video. I always wondered about the low E string on some Hofner basses seeming dead-sounding. Thank you so very much.
Very interesting and informative. Thank you!
Another excellent video 👍
Many thanks 😁
Not just on new basses either, older basses and archtop instruments can alter over time causing gaps under the bridge. Same procedure as long as you have enough height overall.
Great vid, the difference in tone was really obvious and sounds so much sweeter now
As always, a very informative and great video. Thank you.
I did basically the same with my China Hofner bridge. I did the flashlight test. I sanded until the light didn't show through underneath the bridge. It helped even the resonance noticeably. These floating bridges are tricky to intonate. Trying to find a happy medium is about best that can be done. String height is as important as string distance. The metal fret looking wire in the bridge slot, I call "string or bridge saddle". Because the string sets on the saddle, like cowboy sets on his horse. I carefully use a very small diameter round file on the string saddle for the best string fit. Another trick I discovered with my bass, was to place the two center saddles in the same slot. The outside saddles are, big string is one slot back from the nut and the small string, one slot closer to the nut. The intonation is as about as close you can get with this type of bridge. I'm all over the neck, so for me it's has to be close. I use LaBella Low Tension Flats. .042, .056, .075, .100. They're a little beefier than the regulars adding more thump. When needed, I mute with my palm. I've seen pictures McCartney using a sponge or some kind of foam. Do you or anyone know much about what Paul used for this effect on many of his recordings? Great to see you back, Backbeat!
You have great patience and truly a master craftsman did you study at a school to start off or where you able to learn on your own getting tips from others or looking at manuals for hollow body instruments plus you have the workings of the electronic system it's easy to see by looking at your back wall that hofner basses are your favorites where you a fan of the beatles or just taken a back by these beautiful basses I'm hoping you allow some time at the end of one of your videos to give us the chance to hear you play whatever your favorite bass lines might be you mentioned that you where in a cover band do you do beatles covers I'm quite sure that your playing abilities are incredible you must have a perfect ear when you can pick up on these very slight tonal differences I hope you at least consider a small demo of your playing that would be awsome thanks again for another informative repair.
Hi Russell. I learned this via the school of hard knocks. I actually went to art college in the 70’s in boston and spent a lot of time visiting a luthiers studio who I befriended. I ended up building my first guitar while in college which I also submitted as my final art school project. Always favored the hofner violin basses. Thanks for the compliments. EJ
Nice demonstration man. I have to do that again with the bridge for this archtop kit, I switched from the fixed-post Gibson style they intended to a Gretsch style floating bridge. I like the method you use better than mine in a couple places. Thanks for sharing.
So glad you uploaded this. I finally upgraded from my ignition to a new German Hofner 63 relic edition, however the bridge under the E string is sitting on a corner and can fit paper under it on the opposing corners.
But, the E string doesn’t sound dead to my ears, so do you think this type of project is required?
It also seems they’ve made changes to the relic edition since your video. Less orange as well as changes to the aging process more consistent with what you preferred.
Hi, if it has good tone then leave it but remember as it ages or as the strings age and all of a sudden the string goes dead to apply this process. Good news on the coloring.
@@BackbeatVintage Thank you for the comforting response.
Been a fan of your videos for years. Thanks for posting. I have a question for you or anyone on this comments section. I have a vox t100 cab with 2x15's that I got from North Coast just before they stopped making them. It is wired for 16ohms at 800 watts. Can you safely work this cab with a 500 watt orange terror head at 8 ohms? If not, what head is available that provides the appropriate ohms output? Thank you for your time.
Hi, when it comes to this amp info I’m not that knowledgable. Hopefully others reading this can help out. EJ
Xlnt EJ.