New subscriber and enjoy your detail in explaining the how and also the why verbally or the added words. Your camera angles are great too when showing your processes. Really enjoyed this one, looking forward to the next ones in the build series! Also love the flag in the background! Last this old HUSKER says congrats on the National Championship!
This is the one of the best woodworking channels on UA-cam. Legit skill, interesting projects, and good production. And by a fellow Alabamian...War Eagle!
Just came across your channel after looking at your M.O.A.T for ideas, watched your shop tour and now you've earned yourself a sub! Keep up the good work!
I'm at the Chippendale School of Furniture near Edinburgh, Scotland. It's only a 9 month course, but has an incredible amount of content crammed in. We have a chap called Scott Grove teaching veneering techniques all week. Just in time as I'm designing my veneer project having completed my solid wood piece before Christmas.
Super interesting project Huy. I am really interested in the frame and the top. As you may remember Danielle is a quilter. I have been looking for something like this for her cutting table. Looking forward to the next in the series, happy new year guys!
You've got me wonder how this would work for a shop bench ? With a 1-1/2" thick top do you think it could handle some chisel work ? And if a vise was attached to the top, do you think the base steady enough? In other words...... do you think a guy could make a steady work bench with the adjustable frame ?
The Poplar Shop For light hand tool work like cleaning up dovetails, cleaning up M&T, chamfering, cutting dovetails, and Kumiko, I think it would work. I think the base could support a 1-1/2 solid wood top and a light duty vise so long as it's below 220 lbs. I don't think the base could handle heavy planning, or chopping a big M&T. Are your gears turning?
AlabamaWoodworker Yes Sir. You've got me thinking if this could be a nice bench. At some point in the future I would like to build myself a new bench. The adjustability with the base is appealing. I need to do more research. Do I invest in the base or stick to traditional woodworking bench? That's what I need to figure out. 😉
Great build. But I wonder why you didn’t use solid wood construction. Why the MDF? I’m assuming that you’re doing it to avoid wood movement bolting it to the metal base. Wouldn’t slots allow for the same? I always learn a lot from you, brother. Thanks.
Great question! I really appreciate it! Short answer: To answer your specific question, yes, I chose to veneer an MDF core because I wanted to avoid wood movement when bolting down the metal base. Yes, slotted washer would allow for wood movement. However, given the design of the metal base I couldn't think of an easy and sleek way of using a slotted washer (or figure eight) and keeping the top mounting surface of the metal base flush. I could've elongated the holes that already existed with a file but I really didn't want to do that to the metal lift. Long answer: There are other reasons why I chose to use a veneered MDF. You can get some really awesome looking real wood veneer (book matched, grain matched, figured, and consistent) for a relatively low cost. Getting that from solid wood is not as easy, and unlike popular belief, veneer is seen in lots of high end furniture, even in museum pieces. Also, veneer is much more conservative. I made my dining table out of solid Walnut and milled 5/4 material down to 13/16". It was disappointing to see all the waste due to the milling process. Also, veneers are much more stable. I don't need to worry about warping, cupping, or bowing. I also don't need to worry about wood movement. I can rigidly bolt this top down to my sit/stand lift mechanism and not worry about the piece destroying itself. The desktop needs to be bolted to my lift mechanism for safety. There will be computer screens and other electronics sitting on top of this desk and I'm afraid any slotted fastening mechanism without an apron would not be secure enough for a sit/stand desk and shift during a transition, possibly causing expensive electronics to come crashing down. I don't always use veneer, but for this application it made the most sense. There are lots of benefits to using MDF as a core. MDF is often used on the finest veneered furniture pieces because of its uniformity, flatness, stability, and density. It is an excellent substrate for veneer work. Plywood has the advantage of being lighter, more sag resistant, and grips fasteners (wood screws) better. I wanted my core to be extremely stable and flat. I'll be using machine screws and threaded insert to attached the desktop to the desk lift so I'm not concerned about the mechanical advantage plywood might have in gripping wood screws. For my hand tool cabinet I used Baltic Birch plywood cores for my veneer because I didn't want the extra weight to augment the cabinet. That's not a concern for this desktop. I should have talked more about why I chose to use veneer and MDF in my video but when you're at 16 minutes long, some things need to be cut. However, these types of questions deserve a thorough, thoughtful answer. Thanks for watching!
The drawer gallery is coming along beautifully, this will be a awesome build series. So I know it’s kinda comparing apples and oranges but how do both systems ie. the domino or the table/router ( sorry forgot the proper name) compare. I know I was looking at the other but went with the domino. Awesome video I’m always learning something new.
The Domino is a great machine but is limited. Particularly with angled joinery. The Leigh FMT Pro is ideal for things like chair making. There is a distinct difference between slip tenons and integral tenons. Each has there benefits and limitations. I like both the Domino and Leigh FMT Pro. I also like making traditional mortise and tenons using both hand tools and power tools. But a Domino machine can do a lot of quick work.
AlabamaWoodworker I’m the same way I like doing most of my joinery with both hand and power or depends on the project. But I must say the FMT PRO is a really nice setup. Thank You so much for all the information.
I was watching one of your video and you were talking about alum. exc. for you work tables can you give me a idea what size you used for your shop. I did take a look at the site you listed but a little confused.
Great video. Love your style of explaining the steps involved and the methodology you employ.. Do you have a link to the dado sled you have? I need to build one and yours looks like what I had in mind. Keep the videos coming.
Hi Larry! I don't have a link yet. There will be a Popular Woodworking Magazine Shop Blog article that will feature my dado sled. I'll give you a link to the article once it's made live.
Larry, Popular Woodworking Magazine just posted the article I wrote on the construction and use of my dado sled on their shop blog. Here is the link. www.popularwoodworking.com/woodworking-blogs/editors-blog/greene-greene-finger-joints-shop-made-dado-sled
Thanks for the link Huy. Great article. How big is the sled base and did you source the 1'' baltic birch or just laminate from two 1/2" pieces? Looks like a great sled and the accuracy aspect is what really makes it top of my list to build. Just what i was looking for. Thanks again.
I made the sled 12" wide by 16" long. The 1" Baltic Birch is sourced from a counter top company that was throwing away a bunch of 1"x16"x5' cut-offs. However, you can easily laminate 1/2" Baltic Birch to get the thickness you need. I prefer using Baltic Birch or MDF because it's really stable, but you can use hardwood as well. It's extremely useful to have a dial indicator with a mag base. I use it for a bunch of stuff now that I have a way of mounting it to metal surfaces.
Huy, always love your shop time. Nice build progress. I've been wanting to build a live edge slab desk with one of those adjustable bases. Think it'll handle a 5'×2' 8/4 Walnut Slab?
Huy, I read your review on Northern Tool about your drill press and I have the same. My question is do you use a vice with it and if so what do you recommend?
I don't recall writing a tool review on my Harbor Freight Central Machinery drill press. However, the drill press functions well for woodworking. I got it used for a great price and I haven't had any issues with it. I don't have a vise for the drill press. I only use an auxiliary table and fence that I made for the drill press. I could definitely see the benefit of having a vise though.
Thank you for your great videos. I watched your M.O.A.T. video several times and ended up using much of your content to build an outfeed table for my shop. I use the heck out of it especially when cutting sheets of plywood. I am now very interested in the stand up desk and like your design. However, I did not find a "part 2" showing how you completed the drawer assemble. Did I miss it somewhere?
I like the build. I am new to woodworking and wondering why you would do veneer top, rather than solid wood. What are the benefits? Seems like more work to do the veneer.
He explains this at 2:19 (EDIT: I see now he also explains it in-depth in reply to a similar question below. You should check it out.) If it was solid wood, he would have to be concerned about wood movement if he attached the top firmly to the base, whereas MDF doesn't move much. It might be an overly cautious choice, but this is Alabama, so you have to contend with big swings in humidity -- especially in the Huntsville area, where he is. There are also other ways to deal with this problem, but they might involve attaching the desktop more loosely than he'd like for a moving desk or building it in a different style than he wanted.
bloodgain Wonderful explanation. There are many ways to deal with wood movement and this may not even be the best way. It is, however, a logical solution. And I really like veneering. I may be a little bias.
bloodgrain gives a great explanation. I also wrote an in depth explanation further down in the comments if you'd like to look. One other thing to mention, veneering really isn't that hard. I think it's just as difficult as doing a large panel glue-up. Also, it's important to know that there are many ways to solve a problem (wood movement). Given my constraints, I thought this to be the best solution. I'm also a little bias because I really enjoy veneering. I know there are other ways to solve this problem, I just haven't thought of them yet. Thank you for your question. This is the kind of dialogue that I encourage.
Hey, you've got me considering it for the desk I'd like to build, too. And if I had a nice vacuum bag setup, I'd veneer everything in the house just so I could use it. If I could work out a snorkel system, the cats might not even be safe!
I just found your channel. I really appreciate your step by step explanations and have only one critique for your health. Please wear a dust mask/respirator when cutting material, even if it's a "harmless" species. Your a still young in years and those microscopic particles can reach the smallest areas within your lungs, becoming a growth bed for bacteria. But on a higher note. Fantastic page!
Nice Job, Huy! If I don't have a vacuum press, would this still be possible with clamps and/or heavy items? Or do you think the veneer wouldn't hold well?
Hey Paul! You don't need to have vacuum press to apply paper backed veneer. You can use a spray adhesive or contact cement and a J-roller to apply paper backed veneer. No clamps required. To apply raw wood veneer, you would need cauls and a bunch of clamps if you don't have a vacuum press.
The1122007 My wife and I are expecting so I've been spending all my free time preparing for her arrival and helping my wife. I have not put a lot of importance in producing videos as of late. Hopefully, I'll get back to producing videos but I can't make any promises.
It's a spring joint, so it forces the outside edges to contact before the center, increasing the pressure when clamping - it makes for an extra tight joint, that doesn't require a ton of clamps to glue up.
Hey Kevin! The apron I'm wearing is the JourneyMesh Cargo by Atlas46. It isn't cheap but it's reasonably priced when compared to other leather aprons on the market. I find this apron to be much more functional.
I found their website prior to your reply and I truly thank you for taking the time out of your busy schedule to respond to my inquiry. I am a retired US Army infantry officer and I was getting ready to purchase a custom leather shop apron, but I believe this is a much better choice for me given my background and tastes. This is literally less than half of the cost, modular, less maintenance and has a cool factor as well. This is a piece of gear that fits with the quote that "if it ain't practical it ain't tactical." Many thanks and keep up the great work! Cheers
Absolutely, MDF can be used in high end furniture. It's an excellent core for quality veneer. It's remains flat, and doesn't expand and contract with seasonal changes. It functions well and can take on the form that I want for this desk.
MDF is a good substrate for veneer, as long it is not used in a high moisture condition. If you want to be super cautious, veneer both sides like you would using particle board or plywood.
I have not forgotten about UA-cam. My wife and I are expecting our first child. I've been building furniture for the nursery and it's more important for me to focus on family than UA-cam videos. I will return once we settle into our new roles as parents.
I think this deserves a second watch. Great content.
Thank you for watching!
Love greene and greene style. Looks good bro! Looking forward to seeing the details and the finished piece.
Thanks, Joe!
AlabamaWoodworker ALWAYS bro! Can't wait to start uploading again been too long..
I can't wait!
AlabamaWoodworker thanks brother! Always appreciate your support
I love your precision and your construction methods. You did a great job on this video and I enjoy all your videos.
Thank you!
Good and nicely explained tips. I think there are many who can learn from your content. Keep up the good work
Thank you!
Great job yet again. I think that’s the first time I’ve noticed the hand tool wall storage and I am impressed!
I made the hand tool cabinet in Nov 2017. It's a great build and is extremely useful.
As always a very thorough explanation of what you are doing. Thank you. Bill
Thank you, Bill!
New subscriber and enjoy your detail in explaining the how and also the why verbally or the added words. Your camera angles are great too when showing your processes. Really enjoyed this one, looking forward to the next ones in the build series! Also love the flag in the background! Last this old HUSKER says congrats on the National Championship!
Steve Hasebroock Thank you for the encouragement, subscription, and most importantly...Roll Tide!
Awe yeah, back with another awesome build. 👌
Thanks John, and thank you for the great explanation on the spring joint.
This is the one of the best woodworking channels on UA-cam. Legit skill, interesting projects, and good production. And by a fellow Alabamian...War Eagle!
Gavin Brown Thank you, Gavin! War Eagle back at ya!
Just came across your channel after looking at your M.O.A.T for ideas, watched your shop tour and now you've earned yourself a sub! Keep up the good work!
Thank you, Boon!
Great video and instruction as always.
Thank you, Richard!
I'm amazed at your methodical approach. Something I hope to develop and improve on when I graduate from furniture school.
Myrkskog Thank you! What furniture school are you attending?
I'm at the Chippendale School of Furniture near Edinburgh, Scotland. It's only a 9 month course, but has an incredible amount of content crammed in. We have a chap called Scott Grove teaching veneering techniques all week. Just in time as I'm designing my veneer project having completed my solid wood piece before Christmas.
Interesting spring joint panel glue-up. Great job.
Some accurate woodwork right there
Excellent! Very informative, Thanks AW!
Great job huy! Man If I didn't know any better I'd swear you were and engineer or something!
Haha! I know! I mean, who gets joints to fit within 1/1000". Only a nerd/geek like myself.
Super interesting project Huy. I am really interested in the frame and the top. As you may remember Danielle is a quilter. I have been looking for something like this for her cutting table. Looking forward to the next in the series, happy new year guys!
Thank you, Andrew! I think something like this would be great for Danielle!
Awesome build. Found you from Popular Woodworking, as one of their top 5 videos of the week. Look forward to seeing more videos
James Roach Thank you, James! Popular Woodworking Magazine has been very helpful to me.
You've got me wonder how this would work for a shop bench ? With a 1-1/2" thick top do you think it could handle some chisel work ? And if a vise was attached to the top, do you think the base steady enough? In other words...... do you think a guy could make a steady work bench with the adjustable frame ?
The Poplar Shop For light hand tool work like cleaning up dovetails, cleaning up M&T, chamfering, cutting dovetails, and Kumiko, I think it would work. I think the base could support a 1-1/2 solid wood top and a light duty vise so long as it's below 220 lbs. I don't think the base could handle heavy planning, or chopping a big M&T. Are your gears turning?
AlabamaWoodworker Yes Sir. You've got me thinking if this could be a nice bench. At some point in the future I would like to build myself a new bench. The adjustability with the base is appealing. I need to do more research. Do I invest in the base or stick to traditional woodworking bench? That's what I need to figure out. 😉
I'd like to see that...and if you're ever thinking about selling your bench...please let me know. :-)
Great build. But I wonder why you didn’t use solid wood construction. Why the MDF? I’m assuming that you’re doing it to avoid wood movement bolting it to the metal base. Wouldn’t slots allow for the same? I always learn a lot from you, brother. Thanks.
Great question! I really appreciate it!
Short answer:
To answer your specific question, yes, I chose to veneer an MDF core because I wanted to avoid wood movement when bolting down the metal base. Yes, slotted washer would allow for wood movement. However, given the design of the metal base I couldn't think of an easy and sleek way of using a slotted washer (or figure eight) and keeping the top mounting surface of the metal base flush. I could've elongated the holes that already existed with a file but I really didn't want to do that to the metal lift.
Long answer:
There are other reasons why I chose to use a veneered MDF. You can get some really awesome looking real wood veneer (book matched, grain matched, figured, and consistent) for a relatively low cost. Getting that from solid wood is not as easy, and unlike popular belief, veneer is seen in lots of high end furniture, even in museum pieces. Also, veneer is much more conservative. I made my dining table out of solid Walnut and milled 5/4 material down to 13/16". It was disappointing to see all the waste due to the milling process. Also, veneers are much more stable. I don't need to worry about warping, cupping, or bowing. I also don't need to worry about wood movement. I can rigidly bolt this top down to my sit/stand lift mechanism and not worry about the piece destroying itself. The desktop needs to be bolted to my lift mechanism for safety. There will be computer screens and other electronics sitting on top of this desk and I'm afraid any slotted fastening mechanism without an apron would not be secure enough for a sit/stand desk and shift during a transition, possibly causing expensive electronics to come crashing down. I don't always use veneer, but for this application it made the most sense.
There are lots of benefits to using MDF as a core. MDF is often used on the finest veneered furniture pieces because of its uniformity, flatness, stability, and density. It is an excellent substrate for veneer work. Plywood has the advantage of being lighter, more sag resistant, and grips fasteners (wood screws) better. I wanted my core to be extremely stable and flat. I'll be using machine screws and threaded insert to attached the desktop to the desk lift so I'm not concerned about the mechanical advantage plywood might have in gripping wood screws. For my hand tool cabinet I used Baltic Birch plywood cores for my veneer because I didn't want the extra weight to augment the cabinet. That's not a concern for this desktop.
I should have talked more about why I chose to use veneer and MDF in my video but when you're at 16 minutes long, some things need to be cut. However, these types of questions deserve a thorough, thoughtful answer. Thanks for watching!
AlabamaWoodworker thank you for the thorough answer!
The drawer gallery is coming along beautifully, this will be a awesome build series. So I know it’s kinda comparing apples and oranges but how do both systems ie. the domino or the table/router ( sorry forgot the proper name) compare. I know I was looking at the other but went with the domino. Awesome video I’m always learning something new.
The Domino is a great machine but is limited. Particularly with angled joinery. The Leigh FMT Pro is ideal for things like chair making. There is a distinct difference between slip tenons and integral tenons. Each has there benefits and limitations. I like both the Domino and Leigh FMT Pro. I also like making traditional mortise and tenons using both hand tools and power tools. But a Domino machine can do a lot of quick work.
AlabamaWoodworker I’m the same way I like doing most of my joinery with both hand and power or depends on the project. But I must say the FMT PRO is a really nice setup. Thank You so much for all the information.
Nice work and presentation Huy! Where did you get those large veneer panels? Are they paper backed?
Thanks, Guy! I bought this paper backed veneer from JSO Wood Products. I'm happy with the veneer.
Great class, thanks!
Thanks, Warren!
I was watching one of your video and you were talking about alum. exc. for you work tables can you give me a idea what size you used for your shop. I did take a look at the site you listed but a little confused.
Great video. Love your style of explaining the steps involved and the methodology you employ.. Do you have a link to the dado sled you have? I need to build one and yours looks like what I had in mind. Keep the videos coming.
Hi Larry! I don't have a link yet. There will be a Popular Woodworking Magazine Shop Blog article that will feature my dado sled. I'll give you a link to the article once it's made live.
Larry, Popular Woodworking Magazine just posted the article I wrote on the construction and use of my dado sled on their shop blog. Here is the link.
www.popularwoodworking.com/woodworking-blogs/editors-blog/greene-greene-finger-joints-shop-made-dado-sled
Thanks for the link Huy. Great article. How big is the sled base and did you source the 1'' baltic birch or just laminate from two 1/2" pieces? Looks like a great sled and the accuracy aspect is what really makes it top of my list to build. Just what i was looking for. Thanks again.
I made the sled 12" wide by 16" long. The 1" Baltic Birch is sourced from a counter top company that was throwing away a bunch of 1"x16"x5' cut-offs. However, you can easily laminate 1/2" Baltic Birch to get the thickness you need. I prefer using Baltic Birch or MDF because it's really stable, but you can use hardwood as well. It's extremely useful to have a dial indicator with a mag base. I use it for a bunch of stuff now that I have a way of mounting it to metal surfaces.
Huy, always love your shop time. Nice build progress. I've been wanting to build a live edge slab desk with one of those adjustable bases. Think it'll handle a 5'×2' 8/4 Walnut Slab?
So long as the slab is under 220 lbs, I think this lift can handle the slab. Thank you for watching!
Is there a part 2? I could not find it.
Huy, I read your review on Northern Tool about your drill press and I have the same. My question is do you use a vice with it and if so what do you recommend?
I don't recall writing a tool review on my Harbor Freight Central Machinery drill press. However, the drill press functions well for woodworking. I got it used for a great price and I haven't had any issues with it. I don't have a vise for the drill press. I only use an auxiliary table and fence that I made for the drill press. I could definitely see the benefit of having a vise though.
Thank you for your great videos. I watched your M.O.A.T. video several times and ended up using much of your content to build an outfeed table for my shop. I use the heck out of it especially when cutting sheets of plywood. I am now very interested in the stand up desk and like your design. However, I did not find a "part 2" showing how you completed the drawer assemble. Did I miss it somewhere?
I like the build. I am new to woodworking and wondering why you would do veneer top, rather than solid wood. What are the benefits? Seems like more work to do the veneer.
He explains this at 2:19
(EDIT: I see now he also explains it in-depth in reply to a similar question below. You should check it out.)
If it was solid wood, he would have to be concerned about wood movement if he attached the top firmly to the base, whereas MDF doesn't move much. It might be an overly cautious choice, but this is Alabama, so you have to contend with big swings in humidity -- especially in the Huntsville area, where he is. There are also other ways to deal with this problem, but they might involve attaching the desktop more loosely than he'd like for a moving desk or building it in a different style than he wanted.
bloodgain Wonderful explanation. There are many ways to deal with wood movement and this may not even be the best way. It is, however, a logical solution. And I really like veneering. I may be a little bias.
bloodgrain gives a great explanation. I also wrote an in depth explanation further down in the comments if you'd like to look. One other thing to mention, veneering really isn't that hard. I think it's just as difficult as doing a large panel glue-up. Also, it's important to know that there are many ways to solve a problem (wood movement). Given my constraints, I thought this to be the best solution. I'm also a little bias because I really enjoy veneering. I know there are other ways to solve this problem, I just haven't thought of them yet. Thank you for your question. This is the kind of dialogue that I encourage.
Hey, you've got me considering it for the desk I'd like to build, too. And if I had a nice vacuum bag setup, I'd veneer everything in the house just so I could use it. If I could work out a snorkel system, the cats might not even be safe!
HAHAHA!
I just found your channel. I really appreciate your step by step explanations and have only one critique for your health. Please wear a dust mask/respirator when cutting material, even if it's a "harmless" species. Your a still young in years and those microscopic particles can reach the smallest areas within your lungs, becoming a growth bed for bacteria. But on a higher note. Fantastic page!
Nice Job, Huy! If I don't have a vacuum press, would this still be possible with clamps and/or heavy items? Or do you think the veneer wouldn't hold well?
Hey Paul! You don't need to have vacuum press to apply paper backed veneer. You can use a spray adhesive or contact cement and a J-roller to apply paper backed veneer. No clamps required. To apply raw wood veneer, you would need cauls and a bunch of clamps if you don't have a vacuum press.
Cool, thanks Huy!
Thanks for the vids but when is the next project series?
The1122007 My wife and I are expecting so I've been spending all my free time preparing for her arrival and helping my wife. I have not put a lot of importance in producing videos as of late. Hopefully, I'll get back to producing videos but I can't make any promises.
I like you video style
Josh Birkholz Thank you, Josh!
Very nice, as always.
You can call me stupid, but I didn't get the point of create a shallow valley on the first panel you put together 🤔
It's a spring joint, so it forces the outside edges to contact before the center, increasing the pressure when clamping - it makes for an extra tight joint, that doesn't require a ton of clamps to glue up.
John Barduhn tks!
John, right on! Well explained!
What John said...Haha! Thanks for watching Eubio, and great question.
AlabamaWoodworker it's the first time I see this kind of joint. Very nice.
Another awesome video. Question... what is the brand the of the shop apron that you are wearing and where are the sold? Keep up the great work. Cheers
Hey Kevin! The apron I'm wearing is the JourneyMesh Cargo by Atlas46. It isn't cheap but it's reasonably priced when compared to other leather aprons on the market. I find this apron to be much more functional.
I found their website prior to your reply and I truly thank you for taking the time out of your busy schedule to respond to my inquiry. I am a retired US Army infantry officer and I was getting ready to purchase a custom leather shop apron, but I believe this is a much better choice for me given my background and tastes. This is literally less than half of the cost, modular, less maintenance and has a cool factor as well. This is a piece of gear that fits with the quote that "if it ain't practical it ain't tactical." Many thanks and keep up the great work! Cheers
Kevin Clark Practical = Tactical...I like it. Also, thank you for your service!
Great job. Did I miss edge banding the tops?
You did not miss the edge banding. That will be covered in the next video, along with breadboard ends.
thanks
Huy, have you made a video about the top and railing on your MfT?
Clint Humphrey Yes, it an explanation video. Not a build video. I built the work table before I started recording my work.
AlabamaWoodworker I found it that afternoon! Sorry, I forgot to say something. Crazy smart build man. Very well thought out!
nice job!! Have any DIYer know about SmartDesk Kit from Autonomous???
is there a part 2 ?
很喜欢看你的视频，加油
Nice build but I thought the draw gallery was a tad too heavy for the size of the desk.
Where do you typically source the veneer? Excellent vlog BTW.
I got this veneer from JSO Wood Products in Kentucky. I also get veneer from Certainly Wood and Veneer Supplies.
Thanks!
Roll Tide! :)
Roll Tide!
Where did you go? Haven’t seen a video in a few months.
I'm still around. Work and family had me occupied for the last couple of months. I still plan on producing videos.
MDF....really? I wouldn't consider MDF base = high end.
Absolutely, MDF can be used in high end furniture. It's an excellent core for quality veneer. It's remains flat, and doesn't expand and contract with seasonal changes. It functions well and can take on the form that I want for this desk.
MDF is used in a lot of high end furniture were veneer is going to be used.
MDF is a good substrate for veneer, as long it is not used in a high moisture condition. If you want to be super cautious, veneer both sides like you would using particle board or plywood.
Did you forget about youtube sir?
I have not forgotten about UA-cam. My wife and I are expecting our first child. I've been building furniture for the nursery and it's more important for me to focus on family than UA-cam videos. I will return once we settle into our new roles as parents.
I came here to ask the same question. Congratulations for your first baby! Hope you come back soon. Like your contents.
and life begins...……
Disregard I found thr answers
Thunderarrows Cool!