Just finished. I used 30 pound big game mono, sewn through the center of the cord, wrap to the end and tie. I just didn't have any wire. Take a pic of your cord arrangement at the rudder, the rudder lever and the pulley inside the hull, accessed under the seat. You can reach the pulley inside with your hand, no problem. If you break your line, it will be here. Reach through there to the pulley opposite the lever and help feed it. Only takes a second. It makes it less stressful knowing you can help the cord make the sharp turns at the completion of the project. Thank you Nick, great videos and cool products. Will follow up on the rudder review when I get it on the water!
After being on the water with the new rudder only once, two things I noticed..first and more minor is it stays down. The plastic one always wants to creep out of the full down position due to forward motion. I checked 10 times, and it was full down every time. Second, it responds noticeably faster, which is the reason I did it. It actually makes the kayak feel like it wants to roll if you are travelling fast and turn hard. No regrets to be clear, just a different seat of the pants feel. You just added a lot of control surface. I only have a couple hundred miles under my belt kayaking, but that is my take. I did the rudder bolt at the same time, and that is a great improvement as well.
This rudder absolutely transformed the steering on my Topwater PDL 120. With the factory rudder the steering was non-responsive at slow speeds. With this replacement rudder the steering is responsive at slow speeds and insanely responsive at pedal cruising speeds. In addition I can cut directly perpendicular across strong current where are before I had to ferry across. Installation tip: Follow the video precisely. When you are ready to pull the cord back through make sure the rudder deploy handle is positioned exactly as directed in the video.
You have sold me on this sir! I have the same issue at slow speeds on the PDL 106. It's super annoying. I was wondering if the metal rudder helped it cut through better when you are going slow. Does it help steer when back pedaling at all?
When I watched Nicks videos of nick talking about the plastic rudders and how they do not handle well in current. I didn't really believe him and just thought he was being dramatic.... until I took my 120PDL in a river and as soon as I try to turn in even modest current, I can tell exactly what he is talking about. It is so sluggish turning in current, you almost feel like the rudder isn't even turned. Several times I've look back making sure my rudder was still there. I'd like to see underwater footage of the plastic rudder in current. I'd bet its flexed pretty bad allowing all the water to go around it
Very easy. Used 24 guage wire and it poked right through. A slight jiggle it will find it's path. I took the mushroom burnt ends and trimmed them to taper more to a point. Next would be nice to have the entire head aluminum. Not sure if you would need to add some small ballast for weight, but hey...Thanks again Navarre. Now on to my Tripleshot mount for my Lowerance transducer!!
Awesome! I originally thought it was silly and wouldn't be a big issue, But I was wrong. Every trip out I've been in multiple situations where I could not turn a certain direction because of the current. I hope old town goes back to the metal rudders, becomes a safety issue when you're next to rocks and bridges and stuff like I have been. I hope to order one of your rudders soon thanks man!
Finally got around doing this; had some minor stuff come up that might be worth mentioning for others. I had to use my impact driver to get out the bolt that holds the rudder, maybe it's because mine is still a bit new. I used 40# 7-strand fishing wire, and it was a bit annoying to get it to puncture through the cord's end but eventually managed; I think single strand wire/line works best. Finally, the wire I had sticking out the back went inside as I was moving the rudder around to guide the cord under the stud. I was able to get it back out by sticking my hand inside the hatch under the seat and pushing it out from there, although I admit I got scared for a second there lol. Also, it appears that the factory is "tying" the cord to the rudder's two "eyes" differently on newer kayaks than what's seen in the video. Instead of having the little loop that you have to pull out and hold, they just wrap the cord twice through the 2 "eyes" and then slide the cord through that loop that gets created and tighten it. Overall, a good experience and I'm happy with the results.
Hi Nick, Not this one. I tried to replace the rudder, but accidently broke the rope in the middle. so I need to replace the rope. I need to know how to route the rope around the dish inside the kayak. do you have a video for that?
Hey nick im changing my rudder out on my Bigwater with your rudder and I’ve got the lines in the right orientation on the rudder but when I operate my handle nothing happens and one of the lines are off the pulley inside, any tips on how to fix this?
@@NavarreKayakFishing thanks nick, I finally got it! It was the rudder lines not going into the holes in the pulley inside the hull, I didn’t know they were there and it was driving me insane lol
Alright Nick, I managed to allow both cords to slide through the handle. Any advice on how to reroute them back onto that channel system and through the handle?
My wire slipped out and then trying to fix it the other wires came out. Having difficulty finding a diagram of how the wires sit in the pulley. Any advice?
@@NavarreKayakFishing Thanks, i think i figure it out in the end. I flipped my phone camera and tossed in in the hatch to use as a mirror. The company should give buyers a diagram oof hor the internal wiring should go, I couldn't find a thing online.
is there any reason the para cord old town uses cant be replaced with stainless steel cable ?..... a smaller diameter stainless steel cable would be a lot stronger than the para cord and wouldnt tend to wear out as fast
Got your rudder and rudder bolt kit and I am getting ready to install but after watching your video it is apparent that my rudder deploy lever takes way too much force to get it up or down. Is there anything I can do to adjust this to make it more easy to deploy..... almost feels like some crap has gotten into the sleeves..... was like this since it was new and now about 3 month old..... love the kayak but this is one of my only issues and that in lots of current it really does not steer well.... hopefully your rudder and bolt help this as well.
Troy, when lifting or deploying the rubber make sure it’s pointed straight. If it’s left or right at all it makes it harder to move. That’s the only thing I can think of that causes the rudder to be hard to move up and down.
Hey Nick, I watched your video and have the rudder installed fine but did something wrong on the lift-handle end of the project. Now I have both pull cords lose and took the handle assembly apart to try and figure it out, argh. Is there a diagram (or video) you can point me to that will help me reassemble the lift handle?
@@NavarreKayakFishing hey Nick, thanks so much for even replying back to me I really appreciate it! I just sent you a IG message and wondered if you could share the pics that way.
@@NavarreKayakFishing Nick, I just figured it out...wow! As you mentioned in your video to take your time and pay attention to the little steps, I should have been more careful. I cost myself a bunch of time and aggravation but I did figure it out just now! Thanks a bunch!!
Just got mine today and installed it a bit ago, I noticed the the metal one is thinner towards the screw where the plastic one has the grab handle, it gives it play back and forth at that spot, about 1/4 of an inch if not more to either side
Put my rudder and bolt in this evening. Went pretty smooth. Hard part was getting it back into the handle. Needs to be very skinny and flexible. Looking forward to a big windy day to see the full benefits. Thanks Nick!
I have never successfully removed to top without breaking the tabs. That’s the reason I made a replacement knob. No top part so you can loosen or tighten it whenever needed.
Good stuff here, thanks for posting. I just got a bigwater pdl a few days ago and was wondering, how tight do you like to keep the rudder steering cables? They came pretty loose from old town and I've tightened them about halfway up the nuts, but still a bit of slack in the cables. I was just worried about over tightening and stripping something.
Luke, I keep a bit of play in mine. The kayaks will slowly change shape overtime and the lines are to tight you will run into steering issues. As long as it’s not coming unscrewed while you’re on the water you’re good to go.
The hull really shrinks and lengthens based on temps and/or being in the sun. I wouldn't tighten them unless they are loose on the hottest sunniest day, or they will be tight as a banjo string. Better a little slack than too tight. Get one of Nick's rudder bolts and it will take the slack out of the rigging.
Purchased two (2 yrs back) & FINALLY installed today... so looking forward to using them! Thx for this video; install went smoothly (even got the same cable lengths when done!). Only concern is, the metal rudder really slams the yak when putting it up... being aware one can minimize it, but have you had any feedback/experience on solving the problem?
Could you look into what the market would be for a beefed up metal rudder for the Pescador Pilot 12. The current rudder has very little bite because it is so thin. I would gladly pay to have a medal replacement that was wider and less flexible. There are a number of videos on how to beef up the current rudder, but a metal replacement would be optimal. Thanks, love your stuff and your simple videos on how to use it.
The PDL kayaks were first released with a metal rudder. They went to a plastic rudder to save money in production. The metal rudder costs through the water better (plastic flexes) and allows for more responsive steering.
@@NavarreKayakFishing Thanks for the reply. I was out the other day, fairly choppy and windy. Steering proved to be difficult at times. I was wondering if this would make a difference. Seems like it would.
Just completed my install, hit a few bumps along the way lol...Heed Nick's advice and tie your wire (I used 40lb test Mono) as close to the bitter end of your cable as possible. If you don't, you are going to have an extremely difficult time getting the cord back through the pulley, like I did. If you have problems, make sure you open the hatch under your seat and grope around (the pulley) to get the lay of the land. Thanks for the amazing support Nick!
This is so familiar. I just did mine and experienced all of your same trials and tribulations lol. Used the iPhone to “see” what the inner handle area looked like.
Yeah, I dunno, man. Appreciate you, but I see several opportunities for people to get tripped up here. I'd also be concerned about voiding the warranty. I might just want to cut my own piece of 6061 and slap it on the existing rudder.
We’ve been doing this for a very long time. There’s no warranty issue and Old Town sends people to us daily who have issues with their rudder system from the factory.
Nick how you doing do you have a video where your showing the correct placement meaning the up and down cable. Having heck of a time getting my rudder to come back up and down. Cutting to valuable fishing time bro just kidding. Any help would be greatly appreciated 🙏🏾
Nick Thanks for the video clip on the installation, with the help of that vid clip I was able to install the new rudder. no hang ups no problems. Thanks again. Brian
since you improving oldtowns with metal now : how about metal heavy duty drop in rail track replacements to make my awesome OLD TOWN SPORTSMAN AUTOIPILOT even beter" platform"?
@@NavarreKayakFishing Nick is the Malin wire you are using to route with #27 with a strength of 40lbs? Trying to make sure I get the right stuff to get the job done. Thanks!
This video is critical! I did it without wire but I DONT recommend. I put some 60# line through the rudder cable but it was pretty difficult threading the line through the braided cable. Can’t wait to get this new rudder wet.
Thanks Nick for making all this awesome parts for us , been using em to upgrade my 106 pdl over the past 3 years. Today I finally had the courage to pull the rudder apart, a bit different from this model , but was able to get it done . I was observing the thickness of the metal rudder vs the plastic one , there’s a bit of room for play between the metal rudder and the plastic housing compare to the plastic one , wich it fits compact in there , maybe you can come out with a adapter to secure the play this metal rudder has in that plastic housing to make steering even more successful. Thanks again mate
Destroyed? Failing to follow the steps correctly won’t destroy the kayak. It’s a very simple rudder system. You can take the entire system off of the kayak and reinstall it in thirty minutes.
my sportsman 120 pdl's rudder control is not like this one, so basically as long as l have it in the down position then l should be okay....here's knocking on wood it goes well...ty for the video :)
Just finished. I used 30 pound big game mono, sewn through the center of the cord, wrap to the end and tie. I just didn't have any wire. Take a pic of your cord arrangement at the rudder, the rudder lever and the pulley inside the hull, accessed under the seat. You can reach the pulley inside with your hand, no problem. If you break your line, it will be here. Reach through there to the pulley opposite the lever and help feed it. Only takes a second. It makes it less stressful knowing you can help the cord make the sharp turns at the completion of the project. Thank you Nick, great videos and cool products. Will follow up on the rudder review when I get it on the water!
After being on the water with the new rudder only once, two things I noticed..first and more minor is it stays down. The plastic one always wants to creep out of the full down position due to forward motion. I checked 10 times, and it was full down every time.
Second, it responds noticeably faster, which is the reason I did it. It actually makes the kayak feel like it wants to roll if you are travelling fast and turn hard. No regrets to be clear, just a different seat of the pants feel. You just added a lot of control surface.
I only have a couple hundred miles under my belt kayaking, but that is my take. I did the rudder bolt at the same time, and that is a great improvement as well.
I just got a 106pdl today, ordered the anchor wizard kit today, this will be my next upgrade!
This rudder absolutely transformed the steering on my Topwater PDL 120. With the factory rudder the steering was non-responsive at slow speeds. With this replacement rudder the steering is responsive at slow speeds and insanely responsive at pedal cruising speeds. In addition I can cut directly perpendicular across strong current where are before I had to ferry across.
Installation tip: Follow the video precisely. When you are ready to pull the cord back through make sure the rudder deploy handle is positioned exactly as directed in the video.
You have sold me on this sir! I have the same issue at slow speeds on the PDL 106. It's super annoying. I was wondering if the metal rudder helped it cut through better when you are going slow. Does it help steer when back pedaling at all?
When I watched Nicks videos of nick talking about the plastic rudders and how they do not handle well in current. I didn't really believe him and just thought he was being dramatic.... until I took my 120PDL in a river and as soon as I try to turn in even modest current, I can tell exactly what he is talking about. It is so sluggish turning in current, you almost feel like the rudder isn't even turned. Several times I've look back making sure my rudder was still there. I'd like to see underwater footage of the plastic rudder in current. I'd bet its flexed pretty bad allowing all the water to go around it
Very easy. Used 24 guage wire and it poked right through. A slight jiggle it will find it's path. I took the mushroom burnt ends and trimmed them to taper more to a point. Next would be nice to have the entire head aluminum. Not sure if you would need to add some small ballast for weight, but hey...Thanks again Navarre. Now on to my Tripleshot mount for my Lowerance transducer!!
Nick, looks like the best solution out there! Nice work! Ready for one!
Thanks for watching!
Still one of your best videos ever!
Awesome! I originally thought it was silly and wouldn't be a big issue, But I was wrong. Every trip out I've been in multiple situations where I could not turn a certain direction because of the current. I hope old town goes back to the metal rudders, becomes a safety issue when you're next to rocks and bridges and stuff like I have been. I hope to order one of your rudders soon thanks man!
Thanks, Joey.
Finally got around doing this; had some minor stuff come up that might be worth mentioning for others. I had to use my impact driver to get out the bolt that holds the rudder, maybe it's because mine is still a bit new. I used 40# 7-strand fishing wire, and it was a bit annoying to get it to puncture through the cord's end but eventually managed; I think single strand wire/line works best. Finally, the wire I had sticking out the back went inside as I was moving the rudder around to guide the cord under the stud. I was able to get it back out by sticking my hand inside the hatch under the seat and pushing it out from there, although I admit I got scared for a second there lol. Also, it appears that the factory is "tying" the cord to the rudder's two "eyes" differently on newer kayaks than what's seen in the video. Instead of having the little loop that you have to pull out and hold, they just wrap the cord twice through the 2 "eyes" and then slide the cord through that loop that gets created and tighten it. Overall, a good experience and I'm happy with the results.
like so... Thanks for watching!
Hi Nick, Not this one. I tried to replace the rudder, but accidently broke the rope in the middle. so I need to replace the rope. I need to know how to route the rope around the dish inside the kayak. do you have a video for that?
I have photos I can send. Send me an email.
Hey nick im changing my rudder out on my Bigwater with your rudder and I’ve got the lines in the right orientation on the rudder but when I operate my handle nothing happens and one of the lines are off the pulley inside, any tips on how to fix this?
Give me a call if you still need some help and I will get you pointed in the right direction.
@@NavarreKayakFishing thanks nick, I finally got it! It was the rudder lines not going into the holes in the pulley inside the hull, I didn’t know they were there and it was driving me insane lol
Alright Nick, I managed to allow both cords to slide through the handle. Any advice on how to reroute them back onto that channel system and through the handle?
If you email me I can email you photos from Old Town.
Good stuff. Thanks for the effort and info.
Thanks for watching, Bob.
Would you still be able to Mount a bixby to this ?
Thats a negative.
My wire slipped out and then trying to fix it the other wires came out. Having difficulty finding a diagram of how the wires sit in the pulley. Any advice?
Send us an email and we can send out a diagram.
@@NavarreKayakFishing Thanks, i think i figure it out in the end. I flipped my phone camera and tossed in in the hatch to use as a mirror. The company should give buyers a diagram oof hor the internal wiring should go, I couldn't find a thing online.
is there any reason the para cord old town uses cant be replaced with stainless steel cable ?..... a smaller diameter stainless steel cable would be a lot stronger than the para cord and wouldnt tend to wear out as fast
It’s not paracord. It’s nylon rope which holds up fantastic in my experience. Metal would cause a problem with the plastic pulley inside the kayak.
What kind of wire did you use to pull the cable through the kayak?
Single strand Malin wire in 27 lbs.
Cool, I need one. Thanks Nick. You should make one for the 2019 and newer outback.
Got your rudder and rudder bolt kit and I am getting ready to install but after watching your video it is apparent that my rudder deploy lever takes way too much force to get it up or down.
Is there anything I can do to adjust this to make it more easy to deploy..... almost feels like some crap has gotten into the sleeves..... was like this since it was new and now about 3 month old..... love the kayak but this is one of my only issues and that in lots of current it really does not steer well.... hopefully your rudder and bolt help this as well.
Troy, when lifting or deploying the rubber make sure it’s pointed straight. If it’s left or right at all it makes it harder to move. That’s the only thing I can think of that causes the rudder to be hard to move up and down.
Could it be the lines are tightened too much?
Hey Nick, I watched your video and have the rudder installed fine but did something wrong on the lift-handle end of the project. Now I have both pull cords lose and took the handle assembly apart to try and figure it out, argh. Is there a diagram (or video) you can point me to that will help me reassemble the lift handle?
I have two photos I can send you. If they don’t work I should be able to help with a phone call.
@@NavarreKayakFishing hey Nick, thanks so much for even replying back to me I really appreciate it! I just sent you a IG message and wondered if you could share the pics that way.
I don’t use IG anymore or have it on my home. Email is the best option.
@@NavarreKayakFishing Nick, I just figured it out...wow! As you mentioned in your video to take your time and pay attention to the little steps, I should have been more careful. I cost myself a bunch of time and aggravation but I did figure it out just now! Thanks a bunch!!
Good news! It is extremely frustrating if you miss the edge of the pulley. Not being able to see is a huge pain.
Just got mine today and installed it a bit ago, I noticed the the metal one is thinner towards the screw where the plastic one has the grab handle, it gives it play back and forth at that spot, about 1/4 of an inch if not more to either side
Alan,
You shouldn’t have any side to side play in the rudder. Email or text me some photos and I will help you out.
Alan,
You shouldn’t have any side to side play in the rudder. Email or text me some photos and I will help you out.
Hi Nick!! This rudder can be use to the pedal Malibu also?
Does 550 cord/Paracord work as a replacement to lift and drop the rudder?
I wouldn’t use 550 cord for it. I would try and stick with braided nylon.
@@NavarreKayakFishing Thanks!
Put my rudder and bolt in this evening. Went pretty smooth. Hard part was getting it back into the handle. Needs to be very skinny and flexible. Looking forward to a big windy day to see the full benefits. Thanks Nick!
How do you take off the knob cover thing on the rudder handle?
A small flat head screw driver will help you remove the top. Usually the small prongs break during removal so be gentle.
@@NavarreKayakFishing Is there a way to make them not break? I’d prefer to not bust it so it doesn’t fit anymore.
I have never successfully removed to top without breaking the tabs. That’s the reason I made a replacement knob. No top part so you can loosen or tighten it whenever needed.
Good stuff here, thanks for posting.
I just got a bigwater pdl a few days ago and was wondering, how tight do you like to keep the rudder steering cables?
They came pretty loose from old town and I've tightened them about halfway up the nuts, but still a bit of slack in the cables. I was just worried about over tightening and stripping something.
Luke, I keep a bit of play in mine. The kayaks will slowly change shape overtime and the lines are to tight you will run into steering issues. As long as it’s not coming unscrewed while you’re on the water you’re good to go.
The hull really shrinks and lengthens based on temps and/or being in the sun. I wouldn't tighten them unless they are loose on the hottest sunniest day, or they will be tight as a banjo string. Better a little slack than too tight. Get one of Nick's rudder bolts and it will take the slack out of the rigging.
Purchased two (2 yrs back) & FINALLY installed today... so looking forward to using them! Thx for this video; install went smoothly (even got the same cable lengths when done!). Only concern is, the metal rudder really slams the yak when putting it up... being aware one can minimize it, but have you had any feedback/experience on solving the problem?
You should do a steering assembly made out of metal too, also a larger rudder for tighter turns.
Could you look into what the market would be for a beefed up metal rudder for the Pescador Pilot 12. The current rudder has very little bite because it is so thin. I would gladly pay to have a medal replacement that was wider and less flexible. There are a number of videos on how to beef up the current rudder, but a metal replacement would be optimal. Thanks, love your stuff and your simple videos on how to use it.
Will you be making a larger rudder for the pdl?
I have some 10# galvanized wire from Menards, will that work? I can’t break it with my hands.
I don’t see why it wouldn’t. Just go slow.
Can you explain the benefits to having a metal rudder? Mahalo
The PDL kayaks were first released with a metal rudder. They went to a plastic rudder to save money in production. The metal rudder costs through the water better (plastic flexes) and allows for more responsive steering.
@@NavarreKayakFishing Thanks for the reply. I was out the other day, fairly choppy and windy. Steering proved to be difficult at times. I was wondering if this would make a difference. Seems like it would.
@punasurf4697 anytime. Let me know if you have questions. The business phone number is the best option.
Just completed my install, hit a few bumps along the way lol...Heed Nick's advice and tie your wire (I used 40lb test Mono) as close to the bitter end of your cable as possible. If you don't, you are going to have an extremely difficult time getting the cord back through the pulley, like I did. If you have problems, make sure you open the hatch under your seat and grope around (the pulley) to get the lay of the land. Thanks for the amazing support Nick!
Anytime, Chris. I’m glad you were able to get it resolved for tomorrow’s fishing trip!
This is so familiar. I just did mine and experienced all of your same trials and tribulations lol. Used the iPhone to “see” what the inner handle area looked like.
Yeah, I dunno, man. Appreciate you, but I see several opportunities for people to get tripped up here. I'd also be concerned about voiding the warranty. I might just want to cut my own piece of 6061 and slap it on the existing rudder.
We’ve been doing this for a very long time. There’s no warranty issue and Old Town sends people to us daily who have issues with their rudder system from the factory.
Guess this would work for just changing out rope. Mine is about frayed into Nad on verge of breaking
It will work for changing out the rope.
I can’t get my rudder to come back up? Help
Check the pulley on the inside of the kayak and make sure the lines are installed correctly.
@@NavarreKayakFishing I know the one to put it down is, the one to lift it up feels loose. I see no easy way to get it back on track???
Send me an email and we will get it figured out.
@@NavarreKayakFishing just got it. Thanks for the offer though.
Good news.
Keep up the good work 😉😎
Thanks, Patrick.
Thanks for the tutorial bud. Ordered mine a few days ago to replace on my topwater. Cant wait to help out that steering.
Thanks, sir. I’m waiting for the powder coating to be finished and I will ship it out instantly.
You made the installation look very easy. Thanks buddy.
Thanks for watching, Peter.
Nick how you doing do you have a video where your showing the correct placement meaning the up and down cable. Having heck of a time getting my rudder to come back up and down. Cutting to valuable fishing time bro just kidding. Any help would be greatly appreciated 🙏🏾
Nick Thanks for the video clip on the installation, with the help of that vid clip I was able to install the new rudder. no hang ups no problems. Thanks again. Brian
Great news. Thanks for ordering!
Any tips on removing the rudder bolt?
Which one? Horizontal bolt that holds the two plastic sides together?
Yes the Horizontal screw sir, it seems stuck. I used my drill but don’t want to strip the screw.
Shoot me an email. You would be the 2-3 person to have this issue it’s crossed threaded from factory.
I'm having this issue. Received my rudder today and the bolt stripped on me.
Cool! What's that behind the seat pack you have? Looks like it fits like a glove!
It's fore live bait
It’s called a Torpedo Tube and it’s a great alternative to a live well. $30 well spent
Do you have military discount?
We do. Send me an email for details.
Have u ever made a mod for a larger rudder for better turning radius? I see the large rudder kit from old town is 300$ 🙄
since you improving oldtowns with metal now : how about metal heavy duty drop in rail track replacements to make my awesome OLD TOWN SPORTSMAN AUTOIPILOT even beter" platform"?
Not there yet, Bo. But it has crossed my mind.
@@NavarreKayakFishing my birthday or Christmas whatever comes first and than... on to the outboard adapter LOL!
What kind of wire are you using?
It was Malin fishing wire in 27-40 lbs.
@@NavarreKayakFishing Nick is the Malin wire you are using to route with #27 with a strength of 40lbs? Trying to make sure I get the right stuff to get the job done. Thanks!
Nick, Did you ever have to replace the cables for the rudder? Great video
I would like to know too.. just in case if wire fails to hold onto cable to pull through.
The entire process is pretty simple and we have pdf images provided by Old Town for anyone who runs into an issue.
Hey Nick, is there any instructions video on how to install this rudder on a Sportsman PDL 106?
I apologize for the delay. It’s the same process the only difference is the location of the rudder handle.
I was going to buy one of the aluminum rudders, but after watching that video I just changed my mind. lol
Hahahaha. It’s not that bad. One step at a time.
This video is critical! I did it without wire but I DONT recommend. I put some 60# line through the rudder cable but it was pretty difficult threading the line through the braided cable. Can’t wait to get this new rudder wet.
Thanks brother.. just got mine installed!!
Thanks, buddy.
How do you know!? (I'm surprised noone asked yet haha) By the way, great and easy to follow video, thanks! :)
Thanks Nick for making all this awesome parts for us , been using em to upgrade my 106 pdl over the past 3 years. Today I finally had the courage to pull the rudder apart, a bit different from this model , but was able to get it done . I was observing the thickness of the metal rudder vs the plastic one , there’s a bit of room for play between the metal rudder and the plastic housing compare to the plastic one , wich it fits compact in there , maybe you can come out with a adapter to secure the play this metal rudder has in that plastic housing to make steering even more successful. Thanks again mate
Nick already made an attachment to solve this issue, and is on the way to me . That’s what I call customer service, outstanding. Thanks again Nick
PLEASE DO A RUDDER INSTALL FAIL VIDEO. I LOVE YOUR PRODUCTS, BUT THIS INSTALL DESTROYED MY PDL 120!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Destroyed? Failing to follow the steps correctly won’t destroy the kayak. It’s a very simple rudder system. You can take the entire system off of the kayak and reinstall it in thirty minutes.
You got some creepers in the comments bro lol. I’m waiting for the video where you make your own kayak haha. Good stuff bro
Hahaha. Dude, they are always the first few comments lol
a tip: watch series on flixzone. I've been using it for watching all kinds of movies recently.
@Gus Carmelo Definitely, I've been using flixzone} for since december myself =)
@Gus Carmelo yup, have been using Flixzone} for since november myself :)
my sportsman 120 pdl's rudder control is not like this one, so basically as long as l have it in the down position then l should be okay....here's knocking on wood it goes well...ty for the video :)
Damn!! I think I did it with no problems.
Good news!
Need a new video, thos one friggin sucks.