Yes, there are I beileve two thicknesses offered by Amal for these phenolics. I once had a Concentric carb throttle jam open just stopping for fuel. Went to twist throttle full open prior to kicking (a forced habit of mine) and it did not return to closed when letting go of the grip. Poking around looking for the issue, my bare hand brushed to the carb body...way too hot to touch! Same with float bowl. Waited a couple of minutes and then heard the throttle slide snap back closed as things continued to cool down. Put the thicker phenolic spacer on at manifold to carb and problem never re-occurred.
I've tried a few different spacers on my TR6, to see what which ones work best. I tried one that was too thick (like 5 or 6mm) and it made getting the air cleaner on the carb a pain. It's a tight fit on the TR6. My carb gets pretty hot no matter if it's the felt spacer or the one you have, but I haven't had any problems with starting or running. Like 15 or 20 minutes after a ride is when it's at its hottest, which makes sense. There's no air cooling it and the heat transfers from the engine.
The insulators will stop the heat transfer but they must be mounted correctly. With the TR6 the carb is between the cylinders, and the heat in there after you stop can build up but you should still be able to touch your carb with out it burning you, or there us something wrong. However if your bike starts fine then why fix something that's not broke is my motto. Ride safe mate.
I have fitted these to my 1974 t120v as part of recommissioning the bike, i did find them difficult to locate in the UK. Always fitted them to my previous Triumphs over the years never knew how effective they were up until now. What's the name of that tool you were using. Cheers Baz.
I get mine from my local suppliers her in New Zealand but have also bought direct from Amal as thats who makes them. Dimensions -- 30mm Bore and 3/16" thick Spacer. Part Number - ABF814 - Direct From Amal at Amalcarb.co.uk about $40 or 20 Quid. The tool is a laser thermometer and it works great on all none reflective surfaces. Had them in my workshop for years now and find it a very useful tool. Pretty cheap as well. This one was $45 from my local suppliers. Ride safe mate
@@DaveWhellersVintage Just gotta take care in how you point those thermal meters....the laser dot is just to help aim, it is not representing that actual area that is being measured...the zone of measurement is like a cone shape coming from the sensor and expanding wider and wider with the distance from the object. The meter takes an average temp reading across whatever is within that cone diameter....so if you have something hot and something cold both within the zone, then you get an average temp reading...not precisely what the laser dot is hitting.
@@TornadoCAN99 Yes they take a bit of getting used to when you first get one. They don't work on reflective surfaces like silencers or any chrome work, but for general use there a lot quicker and easier to use rather than setting a thermocouple up. There great for letting you see if both cylinders are running about the same temperature very quickly. I use the side of the spark plug hole in the head for that.😊
I got mine from Dick Smiths online years ago. This one is abt same spec as mine. Duratool LCD Display with Backlight IR Infrared Thermometer Temperature Gun. The Phenolic Spacers are from web site --- www.britishmotorcycleparts.co.nz/ up in Auckland. $97. Hope this helps.
I got a friend of mine to make mine but believe you can buy them from Amal. You can use the std stud if you leave off the o rings and compression cones for the o rings.
I got a friend of mine to make mine but believe you can buy them from Amal. You can use the std stud if you leave off the o rings and compression cones for the o rings.
Yes of course they will but to a very small degree ,,,,,,, that is NOT what this video is about mate. I suggest you watch the video again. Carb cooling is about all the factors involved with cooling the carbs. The fuel evaporation by itself is insufficient to cool the carburettors, and they WILL over heat without insulation between the manifold and the carburettor body. This video is clearly about how the phenolic spacer insulates the carb body on the T140v. If you don't have a phenolic spacer or the big rubber o ring fitted your carbs WILL over heat from thermal conductivity. That is science mate.
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Yes, there are I beileve two thicknesses offered by Amal for these phenolics. I once had a Concentric carb throttle jam open just stopping for fuel. Went to twist throttle full open prior to kicking (a forced habit of mine) and it did not return to closed when letting go of the grip. Poking around looking for the issue, my bare hand brushed to the carb body...way too hot to touch! Same with float bowl. Waited a couple of minutes and then heard the throttle slide snap back closed as things continued to cool down.
Put the thicker phenolic spacer on at manifold to carb and problem never re-occurred.
I've tried a few different spacers on my TR6, to see what which ones work best. I tried one that was too thick (like 5 or 6mm) and it made getting the air cleaner on the carb a pain. It's a tight fit on the TR6. My carb gets pretty hot no matter if it's the felt spacer or the one you have, but I haven't had any problems with starting or running. Like 15 or 20 minutes after a ride is when it's at its hottest, which makes sense. There's no air cooling it and the heat transfers from the engine.
The insulators will stop the heat transfer but they must be mounted correctly. With the TR6 the carb is between the cylinders, and the heat in there after you stop can build up but you should still be able to touch your carb with out it burning you, or there us something wrong. However if your bike starts fine then why fix something that's not broke is my motto. Ride safe mate.
I have fitted these to my 1974 t120v as part of recommissioning the bike, i did find them difficult to locate in the UK. Always fitted them to my previous Triumphs over the years never knew how effective they were up until now. What's the name of that tool you were using.
Cheers
Baz.
I get mine from my local suppliers her in New Zealand but have also bought direct from Amal as thats who makes them. Dimensions -- 30mm Bore and 3/16" thick Spacer.
Part Number - ABF814 - Direct From Amal at Amalcarb.co.uk about $40 or 20 Quid.
The tool is a laser thermometer and it works great on all none reflective surfaces. Had them in my workshop for years now and find it a very useful tool. Pretty cheap as well. This one was $45 from my local suppliers. Ride safe mate
@@DaveWhellersVintage Just gotta take care in how you point those thermal meters....the laser dot is just to help aim, it is not representing that actual area that is being measured...the zone of measurement is like a cone shape coming from the sensor and expanding wider and wider with the distance from the object. The meter takes an average temp reading across whatever is within that cone diameter....so if you have something hot and something cold both within the zone, then you get an average temp reading...not precisely what the laser dot is hitting.
@@TornadoCAN99 Yes they take a bit of getting used to when you first get one. They don't work on reflective surfaces like silencers or any chrome work, but for general use there a lot quicker and easier to use rather than setting a thermocouple up. There great for letting you see if both cylinders are running about the same temperature very quickly. I use the side of the spark plug hole in the head for that.😊
I have a 1977 t1040 and live in Dunedin NZ. Where can I get one of these please?
I got mine from Dick Smiths online years ago. This one is abt same spec as mine. Duratool LCD Display with Backlight IR Infrared Thermometer Temperature Gun. The Phenolic Spacers are from web site --- www.britishmotorcycleparts.co.nz/ up in Auckland.
$97. Hope this helps.
Are the carb studs long enough for these spacers or do you fit longer ones?
I got a friend of mine to make mine but believe you can buy them from Amal. You can use the std stud if you leave off the o rings and compression cones for the o rings.
I got a friend of mine to make mine but believe you can buy them from Amal. You can use the std stud if you leave off the o rings and compression cones for the o rings.
The carbs will run cooler because the fuel evaporating through the Venturi effect is like a refrigeration plant. Science.
Yes of course they will but to a very small degree ,,,,,,, that is NOT what this video is about mate. I suggest you watch the video again. Carb cooling is about all the factors involved with cooling the carbs. The fuel evaporation by itself is insufficient to cool the carburettors, and they WILL over heat without insulation between the manifold and the carburettor body. This video is clearly about how the phenolic spacer insulates the carb body on the T140v. If you don't have a phenolic spacer or the big rubber o ring fitted your carbs WILL over heat from thermal conductivity. That is science mate.