Aria Pro II Nashville set up

In this video I'm setting up James' Aria Pro II 'Nashville' guitar. To me the name 'Aria Pro II' is redolent of the best of Japan's Matsumoko factory output in the 1980s (the era immediately AFTER Japan also produced some of the worst - but most visually-arresting - guitars in history which late middle-aged chancers now love to list on Reverb as 'legendary Japanese quality'!)... but this is a later Chinese-made (?) version in glorious rosewood. It's name is suffixed with 'GH' which stands for 'George Harrison' guitar (with reference to his famous all-rosewood Tele that he played on the rooftop gig at the Apple HQ in Saville Row in London. That's to be expected as anything that's Tele-shaped in Rosewood inevitably references that iconic guitar.
The video shows me setting up the guitar with a planned pickup change in the middle... this went on a bit of a detour as I realised that the original Aria Pro II middle pickup was on a straight, narrow single coil base plate but the replacement was a ToneRider with a 'V' shaped plate. This necessitated a quick removal of bridge and all other components to extend the rout to fit the new pickup.
As with many other recent slightly non-standard S- or T-type guitars that I've had in the workshop, I had to custom-made a nut for this one as well. If the nut slot is even fractionally wider (front-to-back) than a regulation USA Strat, the replacement Tusq Strat-style nuts will be loose and tend to wobble and lean forward. This is the worst thing to have for string stability, so a custom-made nut is essential, something that takes a fair bit of time. Typically I either craft a nut from an existing (larger) Tusq nut with the exact same string spacing - bought specifically for the purpose if necessary - or from a blank. I prefer to use the former choice for the precision of the nut spacing because to get it perfect from scratch on a blank is surprisingly difficult (especially to the OCD-eyed person).
In the end the thumbnail refers to a momentary diversion about the messages I still get from people on UA-cam who tell me that I'm careless for not protecting pickups from the evil effects of fret dust which must be attracted to, and ruin, the pickups... Yet again I demonstrate that both nickel-silver and stainless steel have absolutely ZERO attraction to a powerful neodymium magnet and the only wire that's even faintly (and I mean faintly!) attracted is EVO gold which, tragically, has been discontinued.
A couple of curiosities... I questioned whether the neck was roasted maple only because in recent experience, all of the roasted maple necks I'd set up were surprisingly 'bunch-free' (i.e. lacking 'hills and valleys' when under load and compression via the strings) - yet this one had the characteristics of regular maple. It also struck me that you wouldn't know unless you scraped the additional brown finish off.... It's more than likely roasted maple, but there is also a very slim chance (just a possibility) that maybe it isn't.... I'd love to scrape one back to plain wood to find out.
The second is that the marketing blurb for this guitar says it is a 'heel-less bolt on neck'. Which is er... ridiculous as it definitely has a heel and a neck pocket to match. Perhaps they meant to suggest that it doesn't have a neck plate but uses individual ferrules instead?
Finally, on re-wiring I was curious to know how the middle pickup worked as the only two inputs to the switch are neck and bridge and yet in two positions on the switch, the middle pickup comes on. The hot from the middle pickup goes through a DPDT switch on the tone pot - yet the output from that doesn't apear to go to the switch. The marketing blurb suggests that the push-pull pot switches the middle on and off, so the signal either goes through the switch (which I can't see) or it goes into the master volume (which I didn't notice) or direct to the jack (which I noticed it specifically didn't). If I had more time I would have liked to have drawn it out because it struck me as interesting :) The 'user guide' shows that in fact the middle p/up is indeed switched on and off with the push-pull switch and since it doesn't go direct to the jack output it MUST go into the volume pot at the input lug with the 'neck+bridge' signal.