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Best Upgrades For Harbor Freight Sand Blast Cabinet | Upgraded & Modified On A Budget
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- Опубліковано 24 кві 2018
- Best Upgrades For Harbor Freight Sand Blast Cabinet | Upgraded & Modified On A Budget
Link for blast cabinet: amzn.to/3bZIB5q
We decided to build our own version of the Tacoma Company Upgrade Kit for about 1/4 of the price. Skip the $399 upgrade kit and build your own harbor freight sand blast cabinet upgrade kit yourself for a fraction of the cost and get the same results if not better. Upgrade your sand blasting cabinet by buying everything you need at your local hardware store and get the same results as the $399 kit you see in other videos. Watch full video for more in depth explanations on specific upgrades we did. This harbor freight blast cabinet upgrade kit includes the following upgrades:
*24" LED Wired Light
*New Switch & GFCI Receptacle each in their own electrical box
*Metering Valve with Ball valve for media recycling & pressure control
*All Seams Sealed with geocel® 4500 roof bonding sealant
*All bolts installed from inside out to avoid any chance of gloves catching and riping
*Cut the grate down to 25 7/8" by 16 5/8". This greatly increases the size on the working are in the cabinet.
*Air inlet valve screen to control air flow within cabinet. When we ran the cabinet without this the vacuum suction power was so incredibly strong it sucked both gloves right off of the glove ports. This was because the entire unit is sealed so well and negative pressure in the cabinet
*Vacuum inlet switched to the back of cabinet, using the existing plug we connected a dust deputy
*Plumbed in PVC for Dust Deputy to avoid having to buy second Shop Vac Hose
*Drilled a new hole for air hose from regulator to blast gun, used a grommet in drilled hole
*Drilled a new hole for pickup tube/recycling tube from metering valve to blast gun, complete with grommet
*All newly drilled holes contain grommets
*Added air dryer & regulator at the blast cabinet- it takes a minimum of 25 ft for moisture to build in the hose so it is 100% completely pointless to have air dryer attached at the compressor
*Used 3/8 NPT fittings on every hose connection, avoiding all quick connect/disconnect fittings to avoid any air restrictions
*Plugged all open ports on door to prevent media from leaking out when opening door
*Closed the top of the vacuum inlet baffle to insure negative air pressure in cabinet by cutting the top and bending it in and sealing it off
*We are only using the 21 gallon air compressor from HF with a mere 4.5 cfm and having great results. You can totally get away with using one of these and still have an excellent blasting experience. But we will be connecting two air compressors in tandem to double the cfm in the near future...stay tuned for that video
*Another upgrade that has made a significant difference was the purchase of a Scat Blast Gun...Here is a link: amzn.to/3kSmz8I I promise you wont be disappointed!
Make these upgrades and I guarantee your blast cabinet will do everything you expect it to do and more. This cabinet is now arguably just as good as any $5,000 cabinet out there...I'll put my money on that statement! If you have any questions please shoot me a comment and I'll answer as best I can.
Scat Blast Gun...Here is a link: amzn.to/3kSmz8I
Links for metering valve setup:
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Link for blast cabinet: amzn.to/3bZIB5q
What do you think of these upgrades? Did we miss anything? Can you out-do us?
Budget Build Garage its very easy to hinge the top. So much easier for access ( changing gloves , hoses etc)
Save $50 bucks on buying the Dust Deputy by making your own with a 5 gallon buck and pvc fittings. Lots of videos on making your own. Use the money you saved to buy a foot pedal so your hand doesn't cramp up pulling the trigger on the gun.
@@JetSkiBuyFixPlaySellChannel
Please update this video by telling us how much to open the valve at the trap door.
Budget Build Garage I don’t think you mentioned it was super awesome, but it is.
My upgrades:
ua-cam.com/video/wFDn6lkKhNw/v-deo.html
ua-cam.com/video/9N7HvyJNzdE/v-deo.html
I appreciate the effort you go to with trying to get good camera shots to clearly illustrate the work you are doing. I enjoy the budget aspect of your channel and the fact that you share the cost of items and your opinions on which parts to buy from which company.
When you are modifying engines perhaps you could share any known weak points on that particular engine family and suggestions on how to work around them. Keep up the great work.
Great modifications video with the parts list, thank you guys for you time and efforts. cheers
Awesome! Making affordable tools function like really expensive ones.
Good innovation: Consider, eliminate the sacrificial plastic window inside the cabinet and use a tempered glass screen protector for an iPad ($10 Ebay) instead. It’s so much better. Sheds any residual dust. One is adequate but I use two.
Pretty awesome work! I commend you for sharing details of a true DIY modification that does not require increased cost from buying parts from a middle man. I'm going to do this project myself.
Michael H Thanks for watching. I hope some of these mods help with your projects!
I like the metering valve set up. I am doing same with PCV parts. Lighter and cheaper. Thanks for getting my idea juices flowing.
Humberto Perez I am glad we could help!
Add to your budget and put some covers on the switch and outlet boxes...
Great job! Just picked up an HF Blast Cabinet for $135 with 25%-OFF coupon. I'll be adding your modifications with a few twists. Thanks for sharing!!
PS: Harbor Freight 20%-OF Coupons (and occasionally 25%) are always available at this URL: harborfreight.com/digitalsavings.html . Of course, you may get lucky and find your HF Blast Cabinet or other item on Craigslist at even bigger discounts :-)
The Mightycarmods shirt just got you one new subscriber :)
Flexzille hose on everything in the cabinet🤘🏼
Best up grade is to bin the suction blast system and fit a very small pressure pot. I made my own out of a old 2 0r 4 kg co2 cylinder made in steel. very efficient using a large hobby compressors with tank, the larger the better ie cfm. Fit a moisture system using runs of pipework in a vertical position with drip cocks traps at the bottom. moisture is a killer for sand blasting with suction and pressure pots. Bin the current lighting system and fit a 20 watt LED outside water proof light which is also dust proof, don't forget to protect the lenses as you would the viewing screen. Bin the large viewing screen as its expensive to replace it needs to be 1/4 of the size and used cheap green house glass rather that clear pvc film as glass lasts 10 times more. Line out the back with thick plastic to protect the back of the cabinet eroding away eventually. use white as it makes the cabinet much brighter inside with the additional LED lighting. As for removing dust and dust in your blasting media use a normal Henry type hover and connect at the back at the top, use a defector plate in front so the hover is not sucking directly and vent the cabinet as you will create a vacuum. use a disc of breathable material as a vent to act either way keep dust out and take air in. I also put my cabinet on wheels as these cabinets are hard to move about the work shop, make a angle iron framed dolly the feet of the cabinet sits in with lockable castors.
I just got a HF blast cabinet and am planning on many of the same up grades as you gentlemen have already done. But more importantly, I love the old Metallica "Kill 'Em All" banner in the back ground. By today's standards this is old school metal where I come from.... I'm in!!!!!
Bithead1000 reference? LOL
Great video! I was wondering if you could use PVC instead of steel pipe to cut down on weight and cost?
Thanks!!
Guys - this is a fantastic list of upgrades and the DIY approach to the metering valve is brilliant. I've been compiling a list of upgrades so I have them all in one place when I finally get a cabinet (which might be soon and for free as I just discovered a buddy has one not being used in his shed !)
Anyway, a couple of items you might want to think about -
1) - you have no covers on the octagonal boxes you used for the switch and receptacle on the side of the cabinet - this is dangerous and little fingers (maybe even big ones) might be in for a shocking time someday. You should use the usual enclosures that you can affix a proper plate to and not have the 120V terminals exposed like that.
2) The ball valve on your metering valve setup - this is angled horizontal. I am wondering if you might be better placing this in a vertical position so that the open end of the ball valve is pointed up. This way stray media might not migrate its way to the partially open ball valve when the cabinet is moved around or jarred when it's not being used. Could potentially get jammed up then in the teflon seal in the ball valve and cause problems down the road. Just a thought, as the commercial metering valves have the air intake on the top of the mixing chamber, not the side.
3) Investigate using a mobile based on the cabinet at the bottom of the legs. In addition to being able the move the cabinet around it also results in another shelf ! Can't have enough horizontal surfaces to collect stuff on in the workshop - lol
Again, great video and thanks for posting it. I am not into cars, but I am subscribing so that I can keep tabs on any more improvements you make to this blasting cabinet.
Thanks for watching! I appreciate the suggestions. We do have covers for those boxes but we didn't install them before we filmed the video because we where running low on time. I should have addressed this in the video since it is a safety concern. As for the ball valve angle and the mobile base I think those are both great Ideas and I will probably be doing both so thank you for that.
How do you filter out the particles you have blasted off? If it stays in the blast media won't it clog the gun?
Ok, so I hope youll see this question and be able to help. I did everything just like you with regard to the valve assembly and supply line. Very little media coming through gun, sometimes not at all. Have adjusted valve many different ways, no good. Even replaced my gun,hose,etc with a new Eastwood foot switch unit, thinking my gun was bad, but same result. Hardly any sand coming thru. What am I doing wrong? Can anyone here help who's had the same issue? Thanks!
Same thing with me.
Me too. Be nice to have answers to all the questions
I added riv-nuts to hold the glass frame in, no more nuts and bolts, just 10- 24 bolts.
man you cut away right before we were about to see it in action, also did you go over the light upgrade, and whats the best media to use that doesn't create a magnificent dust storm
Instructions for metering valve: Drill a 3/4" hole in the trap door. Part 1. Goes through the trap door and is held in place with part 7. Then use part 8 and then connect one of the tee fittings part 3. Use the plug, part 5 on the vertical end of the tee fitting. On the horizontal end of the tee connect part 2 which is a nipple fitting. Then connect another tee fitting part 3. On one of the ends of this tee connect part 8, then part 4. On the other end of the tee use another nipple part 8 then connect the barb fitting part 6 which will connect the media hose to the gun.
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Great job guys, Part 1 (1" NPT Male) will not go through a 3/4" hole in trap door. Am I missing something?
I built the exact same media valve on my HF cabinet. I also upgrade to a better gun. I can not get the metering valve to supply enough media, no matter the ball valve adjustment. I am using medium walnut shell at 50-115 psi. Any suggestions?
What's the purpose of the ball valve like that?
@@garypratt8111 4:22 He listed the wrong parts. In the video at 4:22 he says 3/4" pipe to 2 "T"s
@@rdking3 I'm having the same issue. I went step by step, so I know its right. I've tried adjusting ball valve 20 different ways. Let me know if you figure it out, will ya? Thanks!
Hi Guys. So I put in the ball valve assembly, exactly like you did. Must have done something wrong because its not feeding media consistently, or at all. I've tried many different positions on the ball valve and, while it will blow hard at times, its very sketchy and is not working as it should. I have great air flow, just not much media. Any thoughts? Thanks.
I recently purchased the bench top version of the Harbor Freight cabinet. I have set up the media feed from below exactly as you have, but despite trying different pressures and different settings on the ball valve, I cannot get the gun to pick up media. Any suggestions would be appreciated. If I use the siphon hose supplied with the unit I can get a small amount of media, but nothing steady. This has been very frustrating.
I added the metering valve like shown. I have a regulator and filter. The media feeds up to the gun, but the gun shoots it out sporadically, for s second or so, then stops. What am I doing wrong or missing?
Did you get the metering valve working? I know it's been a while. I just bought one and did the upgrade and it doesn't pick up media hardly at all. 😢
how do you account for make up air as you have sealed off the side cabinet hole and have suction out the back to the the dust deputy? where is your make up air to prevent negative vacuum pressure ?ismake up airsimply supplied by the air compressor gun?
I will be fitting a tube from the outside to the front of the cabinet through a tube with slots in it to give an air curtain over the glass to stop it being destroyed by the media abrasion. Might be worth trying for you too.
Let us know how this works. Doubt if the air curtain will actually be strong enough to counter the effect of the blasting media. A better idea is to make the glass quick change, then cut some clear 0.005" thick graphics sheeting to the size of the window and attach it to the bottom layer with some painters tape. Also ditch the plexiglass cover and replace it with some single strength glass. Use the single strength glass as the bottom layer in case the graphics sheeting becomes damaged. You can ge 3 pieces of single strength glass cut at Lowes for around $15.
Although I'm not sure how compatible Harbor Freight is with super awesome, good video.
Automatically refilling itself.. ?? That's super awesome.. ???? Did you blow each other when you got done with your super awesome upgrades...???
If you have a regulator on your compressor do you n end one on the blaster?
Did mine just like this 2 yrs ago. You can remove the metering device in the bottom, you dont need it. You want as much flow as possible to the gun and the gun will meter it because it has a nozzle.
Great suggestion, I just put mine together just like you were saying with no metering valve, less money less pieces less fuss and full pressure.
Just picked up this same cabinet for 40 bucks used 3x by previous owner. Did you just connect the hose to a fitting straight into the trap door?
@@Mackus863 yep. Then bring it outside around front , drill hole and put hose back into cabinet. Now its a gravity, not a suction and works a lot better with no spitting or wasted seconds with no sand
What fitting did you use and what size hose for media?
@@Mackus863 i put a threaded to barbed adapter.....thread and nut to cabinet and barbed to hose. No xlamps needed because its gravity no pressure. I guess size is half inch...not sure but its what came on my northern tool gun. Fyi throw the HF gun in lake. Dont use it. Buy the northern tool gun kit, and use the hose and gun off it.
Is that valve always shut or is it open at all during operation ?
How do you get fresh air into the cabinet?
Ive basically done the same set up you have but I'm not getting the results I was hoping for. It does the same thing the siphon piece did. It doesn't give me a constant flow of media. What did I do wrong? Very frustrated
I think putting the metering valve inline with the hoses will give you pressure control of how much media goes into the gun.
I totally support your idea, I don't think our way is any better or worse, just a different approach for achieving the same goal. Wish you the best of luck and would really like to know how it turns out for you, so if you do choose to go that route please let us know how it goes. Thanks again for watching our video and for your input and ideas. Best of luck.
The valve itself does not control media flow. It controls makeup air. Without makeup the blaster is trying to pull a full charge of media to the gun. That's why my cabinet would surge when running. By adding a way to get makeup air into the pickup tube it smooths out the flow and increases speed of the media. In reality they did not need to use as large a valve as they did. A 3/8"" valve would have been sufficient. Myself I would have pointed the valve up so media might not work it's way out when not in use. To set a valve installed in this method you would start with the valve fully open, then slowly close the valve until you start to get media flowing. That is the ideal position. With a setup with good air makeup either of this type or even a Scat Bast pickup tube, you can run the cabinet at a lower pressure which makes your media last longer. Normally I would have to run my stock cabinet at 80-90psi, with mods it actually runs best at 50-60psi, which also means the compressor runs less. Also a valve partially open in the actual path of the media would not last very long!
What did u use to block off the top part of the back wall duck?
What about your compressor? What is your CFM @90PSI?
What media are you using
Is the list for the parts for the Metering value posted?
what is the purpose of milton metering valve that is positioned at 90 degrees ? Why didn't you put the metering valve inline with
the hoses that are going back into to the cabinet.? from what i am seeing in the video you can only have the valve closed not opened.
The way we have it setup is more of an air control valve than a media control valve. Our metering valve controls the airflow that is being brought to the gun. The valve can open completely and close completely, it's at an angle for better positioning of the media hose (so that there are no bends or turns in the hose). When using different types of media, and blasting different types of materials this setup just gives you more control of the flow of the air which ultimately allows for more control of the media.
That size hose and grommets did you use? Are you experiencing and bleed through on the media yet? I'm def going to do something along these lines
The air hose is 3/8"and the media hose is 7/8". Grommets are 1/2"and 1".
Did you guys get your 1" grommet online? I haven't had any luck finding them online.
@@zoomanjones I got it in a pack from harbor freight
Ok thanks. I live in Ontario so I will see if our princess auto has them.
@@BudgetBuildGarage the hose is 7/8"? Or is it 3/4" ID with a 7/8" OD? I'm going to hit Harborfreight for the grommet lol. Thanks. Great upgrades.
What psi are you using?
I think I currently have the regulator set to 90 psi. I could be mistaken but I'm pretty sure it's around there.
why suck the dust through the back instead of the side ?
OK I had to stop watching because I couldn’t hear super awesome one more freaking time
you aight bro?
Where is the details for the metering valve fittings?
Instructions for metering valve: Drill a 3/4" hole in the trap door. Part 1. Goes through the trap door and is held in place with part 7. Then use part 8 and then connect one of the tee fittings part 3. Use the plug, part 5 on the vertical end of the tee fitting. On the horizontal end of the tee connect part 2 which is a nipple fitting. Then connect another tee fitting part 3. On one of the ends of this tee connect part 8, then part 4. On the other end of the tee use another nipple part 8, then connect the barb fitting part 6 which will connect the media hose to the gun.
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Budget Build Garage the video is awesome, thank you for posting it. The bottom feed visually looks like it'll be way more sufficient in delivering the media. Is the valve now where you drain it?
I'm a bit confused, and maybe I do t fully understand what's happening here. Could I not drill the hole and put one single fitting and attach the hose to it? Would it not have the same effect? Also what is pulling the media "unhill" ? I cant the supplied suction tube to function at all, and I am fed up with it.
put it on a wheeled trolley and paint the inside white
ok
theres one mod that i realy liked : ua-cam.com/video/vz81iO-RWY4/v-deo.html
basicly turns the blasting cabinet intoo a wet blasting cabinet , saves you tonns of dust and gives a lot nicer results , doesnt care about water in the airline either
that gun sucks, i'm looking for a better one.
I've found the Mafa from Germany, they seems better from the videos i've seen of people using them but maybe there is better/cheaper.
less than $100?
Less than $100 each. LOL
Got my cabinet for $80, in perfect condition with a few minor upgrades. I'm doing the metering valve and remaining mods now. Keep looking - you'll find these cabinets out there.
Ppl
Just seems like it would be better to spend more money up front and get a better blasting box from the beginning. I just don’t understand the “ fill the landfill mentality”.
Thing is a "good" cabinet is several times the price of the one from Harbor Freight. And with just a few modifications the Harbor Freight cheap one will work almost as good as the expensive one.
Hmm.. Let's see... spend a few hundred bucks and a little fun modifying a cabinet to make it work just as good as a $2000 cabinet? Not everyone can drop that kind of scratch all at once. I'm guessing most guys here doing these mods are simply back-yard Joes and don't have a business and its capital backing them. I've worked on professional cabinets before - they have their problems too. Only difference is - when they break (and they do)... a simple part from the plumbing store isn't going to fix it. BEND OVER and toss that media in with your Vaseline!
The dust collector is now going for $69 on Amazon.