See the Full Restoration Here! There are full write-ups, pictures, and embedded videos in order. DONT MISS IT! friscoboater1995searay.blogspot.com/2012/01/rebuild-begins.html Follow me on Facebook- facebook.com/friscoboater
Super job on the videos! I am about halfway through the stringer replacement on my 1985 bayliner. I used your methods step by step and it is coming out great! Thanks a lot for taking the time to document your project.
so far you have been the most educational individual i have seen on here for rebuilding a boat. im gifted in building projects and i have a boat that i too will be rebuilding. its a cabin boat that i purchased and found out that the transom needs to be replaced. but i wont start until i have viewed all your videos first. thank you for your time and explanations on your videos.
This guy is very clean and professional I’m glad I watched him it really helped me jump in and cut my boat I might have cut some corners only time will tell but I used advantec I think it’s better than the plywood and then I had a spray liner it looks incredible and the floor is actually really stronger feeling than every boat I have been in so far but again I would have never even tried to tackle this if I had not watched this video
Great videos! I bought an old Fiberform bowrider to transport boy scout troop equipment on Yellowstone lake last year. Boat ran great but found soft areas in the floor. Have been following your videos for info. I was going to resell it but my wife bought new seats for it for Christmas. I appreciate your fine work and attention to detail. Oh, stringers are cut and ready to be glassed. Thanks again.
I am sooooo glad I ran across your videos! My experience buying a fixer is very similar to yours. I got the boat knowing the decks were iffy, but it's my first boat, the price with a trailer was right,. I've recently retired, and at 68 years old having worked in the aircraft industry for 40 years, I am confident I can accomplish this. Besides, I need a creative outlet - instead of building models I can rebuild a prototype! You're right, though, the demo wasn't too bad, but the grinding sucked. I, too, removed ALL of the rotted wood. I'm up to the point of making parts, now. Template for the transom is made and laid out on the ply. I'm leaning, though, to replacing the 36 year old OMC stern drive with an outboard, Mercruiser or... haven't yet decided. On the electrics side, NONE of the wiring is marine grade wiring, so I will be re-wiring it, too. Thanks, again, for these great videos. Yer Mom would be proud!
Looking good.... I can hear the enthusiasm... Came across this when you were about 3 months into it... Watched it all back to back... now that I am up to real-time viewing... I actually was hoping your weather would be good this weekend cause I'm jonesin to see the progress.... This has me getting ready to do the same! Thanks for the info!
Good job man , that foam is the best to use. We mixed A and B 5 gallons each opened up the wing window on a VW Bug and poured it in , it blew out 2 windows , we shaved it off and pushed it into the lake and I believe 22 years later it’s still floating !
This is actually a good idea in general to keep from sinking. My friend who builds custom boats does this for customers who request it, but he will apply the foam between the stringers using 6mil clear plastic and lay heavy plywood over the plastic to remove the plastic later. The reasoning is that the closed cell foam will not stick to the plastic so when the plastic is removed the foam cells have skinned over at the correct height to then be able to install the sub floor without the need for planning off the foam which would rupture the waterproof skin of the foam....Really brilliant technique. Oh yeah, measure the areas to be filled so you do not pour too much!
Should have took the left over pieces that kicked off and stuffed them down the hole of the next fill area. It's all foam and the new pour would have absorbed the older foam. No waste. Another idea is to is to use old plastic bottles (with lids on) or ping pong balls to mixed in the foam. Less foam, less issues and the trapped air in the bottles or balls are more buoyant then the foam alone. Works really good for large cavities and saves a ton of money.
Buy a milwaukee drill, dewalt is nothing more than a black and decker motor inside a prettier shell. Also as you drill at the end, drill at an angle then turn your drill sideways, this will pop the core before it ever has a chance to fall. Very cool video, I've really been wondering what a refoam would take, glad you posted it.
see all these comments about the foam getting water logged. I'm not 100% sure of the foam this guy is using but if you use closed cell foam it shouldn't absorb any water what at all so there wouldn't be an issue with that. older boats with foam in their hulls did not use close cell foam but rather a different type of foam that could absorb water over time .
Hey Frisco.....I found your vids. and man you have posted some nice stuff.I'm planning on redoing my 20' Galaxy Bow Rider when I come back in.I work offshore and can only tackle this thing every other month when I'm home.I decided to do this myself after watching countless hours of you sweating and cutting and grinding etc. Thanks.Wish I could talk to you on the phone and really pick your brain....lol Towboater
I just stumbled across a few of your videos, and I gotta say they are very informative. I'm taking notes as, I plan to restore my "81 4 winns, and am looking for all the info I can get before going into it and learning the hard way.
I did this with my boat years ago.. And drilled the holes as well. However, to get the fill you need, cover the fill hole once it gets close to the top, so the remaining foam can fill to the vent holes you drilled as well. And continue to move from hole to hole with the same ..
Kudos on your persistence. Re coring a boat is always a matter of choice. Inevitably it will end up being more expensive than non damaged, intact. At 22’ I might be more worried about survivability. True that cavity has a increased buoyancy due to the foam. But if you rip that big a hole in your hull it may be time to get on channel16 or 21 and get some assistance as you are in trouble beyond ten or twenty square ft of flotation..
I have been foaming a 16' pontoon which was taking $$$ worth of the A/B 2 lb. foam. I cut the expense significantly by filling the voids with pieces of styrofoam before adding the expanding foam. Styrofoam seems to be even lighter and is closed cell.
You can chip up the hardened bits and put them in the areas to be foamed, and if you fill each section partially, you won't have the wasted foam extruding from the hole. Do one layer, then come back with a little extra to fill the remainder.
I always replace my cordless batteries through Batteries Plus because the batteries they sell will last 3-4 times longer between charges. They cost a little more but are well worth it.
youll get better expansion and coverage if you use a drill with a beater to mix, also cover your hole and let it fill into the cavity instead of pushing out. Plus the deck will get warm even if the foam does not reach it ....heat rises! But definitelya must to use a drill to mix, been using it for years! You would have used half as much and gotten more floatation.
ok perfect.. that's all I wanted to know.. Very nice work on your searay I hope to do the same quality work on my tempest. Thanks again for the videos and quick reply.
Hi, What type of foam 2 part mixture is used and where do you typically buy it? I just got a boat I want to do this to and I am new to the boating world. Thank you
I spoke with Steve at US Composites and he said never to do this like this because if it expands too much you will be surprised by the force put on the deck and fiberglass which contains it. I also spoke with Andy of BoatWorksToday and they both recommend pouring the compartments before putting the deck down and then you can sand or cut it down to the height you want and then seal with resin. Also, this will allow me to create channels to secure my hoses for deck drains. I'm sure it worked out on this project but I'm gonna pour mine before I put the deck down.
Ryan Dodd there are two schools of thought on this. If you pour it first and then lay the deck you lose the bonding to the deck and rigidity, and if you cut it down, you break the cells. Yes you have to be careful like I said in the video. This is the only way you can truly seal a deck... plain and simple
I have a hull with a cavity to fill measuring 3 feet by 12 feet and 2 inches deep. I am going to drill holes to pour the foam in but with the hull tilted I am going to start pouring at the low end and work my way to to high end. Doing it this way I think will fill the cavity more effectively .
I'd consider drilling small holes in the corners of each compartment to gauge expansion fill. That would improve venting too, which, I think, would also decrease the possibility of outward deformation of the hull due to expansion pressure. Anything I can do to get complete fill with no excess pressure would be my goal.
watching your whole playlist up to this video.. was wondering if you need to use the foam?.. do you think it actually adds some structure or just there to deaden the sound? I'm going to restore my grandfathers boat it's a 1984 tempest 18'.. He passed away many years ago and loved this boat and it has been neglected the last 15 years.. want to restore to it's former glory. I really appreciate you making these videos too. They will help alot.
Just pulled apart a rotted bulkhead and floor section today. People I got the boat from had allowed it to get about 18" water in the bilge from sitting at the dock for a couple years. All wood below was rotted. The foam was water logged and very heavy. also it had water trapped up against the stringers. Im not going to foam under the floors. Its used for additional floatation should the boat take on large amounts of water. The small amount of foam would provide a marginal amount of flotation I believe. Correct me if Im wrong someone. Don't want trapped water anywhere. Just my opinion.....
Just curious because I’m about to start a boat build myself, but why didn’t you pour the foam between the stringers and everything before you laid your decking and glassed it in? I would think if you poured the foam first You can ensure even coverage and proper height of the foam.
If you pour in the foam after putting down the floor when the foam fully rises it will help with the structure of the floor and help seal the bottom of the floor from water
Mon S what would it matter it still rots unsealed. this guy procrastinates every darn thing and a darn hideous camel toe on the tart. that foam poor was pro. he is he's a tart.
Hmmm. Ok, cool. I have a 1977 Bonito 17 foot, and I do not know what foam they used but it does NOT look like what you used. Yours looked light weight and plastic like. What's in my boat now is like brown orange, and yes, seems like it would soak in water. Maybe it IS great stuff :) but I guess I will follow J's advice and get it out and use the two part. Looks fun anyway to watch it grow like a volcano erupting so what the heck :) Thanks again. Great videos
Its a coast gaud requirement to keep smaller boats floating just at the surface if you get swamped. Check your regulations on your boat size to see if you need to do it.
What about under the deck did you fiberglass? ?? Chop string?? Im about to fiberglass my deck down permanent was curious if I should put sum fiberglass matt or just rezin it up n be good???
Noise damping, more boyance or hull stability? What's the foams purpose? Not knocking your video I'm just wondering? I build yachts are you compressing the stringer compartments?
I'm getting ready to foam my deck. Is there anything you'd change since you did this project? I'm a little hesitant in drilling huge holes in my deck to pour the foam. If you had to do it all over again, would you drill the holes? I live down the road from you, in McKinney and am restoring my boat out in front of my house....in the street. My rebuild thread is on Texas Hot boats located under "Boat Projects" and "Crusader Project".
Did you use all 10 gallons of foam? or did you have a lot left over? I am doing my 16ft Reinell and it seems like this stuff expands alot for what little you used.
I thinking of working on my boat in two months, i have a 1980 holiday 242 cruiser, should i first work with the stringer and work myself back to the transom?
I may have made a mistake.... I have purchased a checkmate didn’t realize it had soft spots. Can I just fix the soft spots back of boat... I knew the floor was soft... only 18 ft boat is it worth fixing????
If the floor is soft I can almost guarantee the stringers are rotten too. And if the stringers are rotten, the transom is likely to be rotten too. It's never "just the floor"
It is a great method but the problem you will later find out is the deck will have a swollen look. If you take a straight edge you will find that the deck is no longer fare. Other than that it is very informative. Thank you.
Great Video...Finally someone did one on foaming a fiberglass hull. My boats styrofoam was so waterlogged that with the heavy motor water would come into the splash bay. I was thinking of replacing the deck and doing the sprayfoam like you did, however after reading some of the comments i am confused...If i don't use any foam flotation how is my boat going to stay above water. Why doesn't someone make like an air inflating Bladder?????
im so lucky. im redoing the deck in my new boat. mine is a 1990 spectrum 17 ft aluminium. mine is already foamed. it will be getting a 90hp mariner. it will be fast
instead of drilling holes at all you should have foamed before you laid the deck. Then shave it level with the strigers then brushed it all with resin to seal the top of the foam.
You should have used Injectadeck Marine Foam, then you drill a TINY HOLE and use stronger NON SHRINKABLE structural marine foam. You see when "flotation foams "Shrink" which they do. Your thin fiberglass hull has no backing and cracks along the strakes. I put 2ea 3' long cracks in a McKee Craft. www,injectadeck.com
I think it is better to paint the deck on the bottom side and use a rigid foam which is not flexible. Make some extra small holes and make it worm by the hair drier before than apply foam. The foam has to rise and stick to the deck. Sorry about my English.
I bow to you sir. I got the skillsaw out for about an hour, before I decided to pay to have it done. The man I hired had the top half of the boat hanging from the ceiling and had easy access to everything. He used closed cell foam because it doesn't absorb water. Unlike the original stuff. You're gonna have a lot of fun with that Sea Ray.👍
+My Damn Channel Yes. The best way is to drill many small holes for venting and calculate how much resin per pure you need. It needs to ooz and blowout all the holes. If not all you are doing is making cavities under the deck. Pre forming works great. Use a long sanding block with 36 grip paper glued to it and just sand it flat. Then bed the deck in resin thickened with fumed silica. This is a very bad example of how to do it.
Hi, just wondering how your boat is holding up after 5 years? I just bought a 1979 23" fiberglass boat with a cuddy that needs a floor. I'm going with 8# foam, it's bouancy is 54lbs per cu/ft vs the 2# @ 60lbs. It's a 10% difference in bouancy as I need structure more than anything and the 8# is 5 times stronger.
Suggestion....:After pouring into hole , cap that hole , so as foam will have to move towards air hole(s). When foam expands it will fill more evenly ?/?
As long as you want a flat and level floor don’t do that. You need a few holes where the foam can release the pressure. If you don't have enough holes, the foam will flow towards the other hole and in the meantime it will push your wood floor up. Don’t underestimate the power of expanding foam!
New to your channel, I really enjoy the way you explain things. I got another question on another one of your videos about the difference in transom thickness. But my question on this video is since you have done this are there any other alternatives to expanding foam? I have seen some kits on ebay for spraying inside the walls of a home, is that not good enough?
I see different weights.. This is what I found. 3 lb. Urethane Foam 2 part rigid liquid Polyurethane Foam 8 lb. kit SO would that be enough to do a 2ft wide by 4ft long by 6 inch deep?
While you are topside pouring foam down the drilled holes, how do you know that the expansion is not causing the bottom of the boat to bulge out or even split open in places where the fiberglass might be weak? There has to be a better method that would insure you that you are getting a complete fill. Why not drill many holes 3/8" and use aerosol cans?
Man Brother been watching your Boat issue back when you bought it. I know what you went through. I had a similar problem with my Malibu Ski after purchase. Mine was more engine and rust but the feeling of that Shiny new boat is sometimes deceiving. I told my wife that you remind me of me with the Jet Ski projects too. Lol.
I have been working with 2 part foam for years and I know you have to make sure the A&B parts are mixed real good before mixing together or it can cause it to fail . But I have got bad fore straight from the dealers . Foams can break down because of Age, cold weather ,improper storage, improper mixing. Great job because its a pain
oh ok I remember you saying in a video or so back that you were thinking of using balloons to hold the drains open so you just filled in everywhere but the fuel tank and ski locker correct? Wish me luck yall stay safe Kevin
I know this was a few years ago, but rather than cardboard tubes why not modify PVC tubing for the job. Cardboard will deteriorate and block the limber hole. How did it turn out for you?
See the Full Restoration Here! There are full write-ups, pictures, and embedded videos in order. DONT MISS IT!
friscoboater1995searay.blogspot.com/2012/01/rebuild-begins.html
Follow me on Facebook- facebook.com/friscoboater
Great video
Super job on the videos! I am about halfway through the stringer replacement on my 1985 bayliner. I used your methods step by step and it is coming out great! Thanks a lot for taking the time to document your project.
You are unreal man! For real! Thanks for embarking on this journey and most importantly allowing us to tag along!
so far you have been the most educational individual i have seen on here for rebuilding a boat. im gifted in building projects and i have a boat that i too will be rebuilding. its a cabin boat that i purchased and found out that the transom needs to be replaced. but i wont start until i have viewed all your videos first. thank you for your time and explanations on your videos.
This guy is very clean and professional I’m glad I watched him it really helped me jump in and cut my boat I might have cut some corners only time will tell but I used advantec I think it’s better than the plywood and then I had a spray liner it looks incredible and the floor is actually really stronger feeling than every boat I have been in so far but again I would have never even tried to tackle this if I had not watched this video
Glad to see you didn't trash the boat and instead decided to fix it up! its a beautiful craft and will be will worth it in the end
I like your videos. I don't know much about boats, but I enjoy watching and learning. You got some ambition going to take on this project.
Great videos! I bought an old Fiberform bowrider to transport boy scout troop equipment on Yellowstone lake last year. Boat ran great but found soft areas in the floor. Have been following your videos for info. I was going to resell it but my wife bought new seats for it for Christmas. I appreciate your fine work and attention to detail. Oh, stringers are cut and ready to be glassed. Thanks again.
I am sooooo glad I ran across your videos! My experience buying a fixer is very similar to yours. I got the boat knowing the decks were iffy, but it's my first boat, the price with a trailer was right,. I've recently retired, and at 68 years old having worked in the aircraft industry for 40 years, I am confident I can accomplish this. Besides, I need a creative outlet - instead of building models I can rebuild a prototype! You're right, though, the demo wasn't too bad, but the grinding sucked. I, too, removed ALL of the rotted wood. I'm up to the point of making parts, now. Template for the transom is made and laid out on the ply. I'm leaning, though, to replacing the 36 year old OMC stern drive with an outboard, Mercruiser or... haven't yet decided. On the electrics side, NONE of the wiring is marine grade wiring, so I will be re-wiring it, too. Thanks, again, for these great videos. Yer Mom would be proud!
Looking good.... I can hear the enthusiasm... Came across this when you were about 3 months into it... Watched it all back to back... now that I am up to real-time viewing... I actually was hoping your weather would be good this weekend cause I'm jonesin to see the progress.... This has me getting ready to do the same! Thanks for the info!
Good job man , that foam is the best to use. We mixed A and B 5 gallons each opened up the wing window on a VW Bug and poured it in , it blew out 2 windows , we shaved it off and pushed it into the lake and I believe 22 years later it’s still floating !
This is actually a good idea in general to keep from sinking. My friend who builds custom boats does this for customers who request it, but he will apply the foam between the stringers using 6mil clear plastic and lay heavy plywood over the plastic to remove the plastic later. The reasoning is that the closed cell foam will not stick to the plastic so when the plastic is removed the foam cells have skinned over at the correct height to then be able to install the sub floor without the need for planning off the foam which would rupture the waterproof skin of the foam....Really brilliant technique. Oh yeah, measure the areas to be filled so you do not pour too much!
Should have took the left over pieces that kicked off and stuffed them down the hole of the next fill area. It's all foam and the new pour would have absorbed the older foam. No waste. Another idea is to is to use old plastic bottles (with lids on) or ping pong balls to mixed in the foam. Less foam, less issues and the trapped air in the bottles or balls are more buoyant then the foam alone. Works really good for large cavities and saves a ton of money.
Buy a milwaukee drill, dewalt is nothing more than a black and decker motor inside a prettier shell. Also as you drill at the end, drill at an angle then turn your drill sideways, this will pop the core before it ever has a chance to fall. Very cool video, I've really been wondering what a refoam would take, glad you posted it.
see all these comments about the foam getting water logged. I'm not 100% sure of the foam this guy is using but if you use closed cell foam it shouldn't absorb any water what at all so there wouldn't be an issue with that. older boats with foam in their hulls did not use close cell foam but rather a different type of foam that could absorb water over time .
Hey Frisco.....I found your vids. and man you have posted some nice stuff.I'm planning on redoing my 20' Galaxy Bow Rider when I come back in.I work offshore and can only tackle this thing every other month when I'm home.I decided to do this myself after watching countless hours of you sweating and cutting and grinding etc. Thanks.Wish I could talk to you on the phone and really pick your brain....lol Towboater
I just stumbled across a few of your videos, and I gotta say they are very informative. I'm taking notes as, I plan to restore my "81 4 winns, and am looking for all the info I can get before going into it and learning the hard way.
I did this with my boat years ago.. And drilled the holes as well. However, to get the fill you need, cover the fill hole once it gets close to the top, so the remaining foam can fill to the vent holes you drilled as well. And continue to move from hole to hole with the same ..
Kudos on your persistence. Re coring a boat is always a matter of choice. Inevitably it will end up being more expensive than non damaged, intact. At 22’ I might be more worried about survivability. True that cavity has a increased buoyancy due to the foam. But if you rip that big a hole in your hull it may be time to get on channel16 or 21 and get some assistance as you are in trouble beyond ten or twenty square ft of flotation..
VERY Informative Clip .... "really amazing" !!
I have been foaming a 16' pontoon which was taking $$$ worth of the A/B 2 lb. foam. I cut the expense significantly by filling the voids with pieces of styrofoam before adding the expanding foam. Styrofoam seems to be even lighter and is closed cell.
You can chip up the hardened bits and put them in the areas to be foamed, and if you fill each section partially, you won't have the wasted foam extruding from the hole. Do one layer, then come back with a little extra to fill the remainder.
Really enjoyed this. Had a few laughs along the way. Gonna subscribe.
I always replace my cordless batteries through Batteries Plus because the batteries they sell will last 3-4 times longer between charges. They cost a little more but are well worth it.
youll get better expansion and coverage if you use a drill with a beater to mix, also cover your hole and let it fill into the cavity instead of pushing out. Plus the deck will get warm even if the foam does not reach it ....heat rises! But definitelya must to use a drill to mix, been using it for years! You would have used half as much and gotten more floatation.
I'm about to pour mine any tips?
Accoring to the coats guard you must use it on an 18 foot boat. Yes it did add a lot of stiffness to the boat, and it really made it quite.
ok perfect.. that's all I wanted to know.. Very nice work on your searay I hope to do the same quality work on my tempest. Thanks again for the videos and quick reply.
Should have kept the components in the refridgerator, also should have blocked first hole to push foam to voids.
You want him to keep gallons of that stuff in the fucking fridge?
Good game
What do you mean foam to voids
Fun to watch and I don't even own nor do I want to own a boat.
Try using a screw attached to a long screwdriver to reach that puck. Or if there is a hole in it, try a coat hanger wire.
Hi,
What type of foam 2 part mixture is used and where do you typically buy it? I just got a boat I want to do this to and I am new to the boating world.
Thank you
I spoke with Steve at US Composites and he said never to do this like this because if it expands too much you will be surprised by the force put on the deck and fiberglass which contains it. I also spoke with Andy of BoatWorksToday and they both recommend pouring the compartments before putting the deck down and then you can sand or cut it down to the height you want and then seal with resin. Also, this will allow me to create channels to secure my hoses for deck drains. I'm sure it worked out on this project but I'm gonna pour mine before I put the deck down.
Ryan Dodd there are two schools of thought on this. If you pour it first and then lay the deck you lose the bonding to the deck and rigidity, and if you cut it down, you break the cells. Yes you have to be careful like I said in the video. This is the only way you can truly seal a deck... plain and simple
I have a hull with a cavity to fill measuring 3 feet by 12 feet and 2 inches deep. I am going to drill holes to pour the foam in but with the hull tilted I am going to start pouring at the low end and work my way to to high end. Doing it this way I think will fill the cavity more effectively .
Gotta love those dam cordless drills. Always run out of juice right in the middle of something.
Always have two batteries for any cordless equipment.
I'd consider drilling small holes in the corners of each compartment to gauge expansion fill. That would improve venting too, which, I think, would also decrease the possibility of outward deformation of the hull due to expansion pressure. Anything I can do to get complete fill with no excess pressure would be my goal.
watching your whole playlist up to this video.. was wondering if you need to use the foam?.. do you think it actually adds some structure or just there to deaden the sound?
I'm going to restore my grandfathers boat it's a 1984 tempest 18'.. He passed away many years ago and loved this boat and it has been neglected the last 15 years.. want to restore to it's former glory. I really appreciate you making these videos too. They will help alot.
You did a great job man
Very nice. I'm trying to learn myself. But I might just get someone to do my flooring :( I don't wanna mess up. Great vids
Put the plug back immediantly after the pour so that it will force itself into the corners,and possible voids
perhaps using a 5 gal bucket to mix in after measuring with smaller containers would allow you to pour greater volumes.
Just pulled apart a rotted bulkhead and floor section today. People I got the boat from had allowed it to get about 18" water in the bilge from sitting at the dock for a couple years. All wood below was rotted. The foam was water logged and very heavy. also it had water trapped up against the stringers. Im not going to foam under the floors. Its used for additional floatation should the boat take on large amounts of water. The small amount of foam would provide a marginal amount of flotation I believe. Correct me if Im wrong someone. Don't want trapped water anywhere. Just my opinion.....
Hint to using the foam in the heat is to keep the buckets in the cool house or cooled garage or keep your measuring and mixing buckets on ice.
Just curious because I’m about to start a boat build myself, but why didn’t you pour the foam between the stringers and everything before you laid your decking and glassed it in? I would think if you poured the foam first You can ensure even coverage and proper height of the foam.
If you pour in the foam after putting down the floor when the foam fully rises it will help with the structure of the floor and help seal the bottom of the floor from water
Stuff the semihard foam waist in the holes before you add more liquid. Less waist that way. Just a thought. Nice job on the repair!
Hi, im wondering if you used marine plywood or just any wood and laminate both sides with glass to prevent water intrusion ?
Mon S
what would it matter it still rots unsealed. this guy procrastinates
every darn thing and a darn hideous camel toe on the tart.
that foam poor was pro.
he is he's a tart.
This is like watching the SuperDave Osborn of boat-building...
"Ooohh, shoot!" "Oh, crap!" Oh...that's not good. I'm screwed!" hahahahaha
Very interesting. Being that gets hot can you use in say 5 gal drum or plastic jugs it barrels stuff like that. Thanks for the vidoe thanks god bless
Hmmm. Ok, cool. I have a 1977 Bonito 17 foot, and I do not know what foam they used but it does NOT look like what you used. Yours looked light weight and plastic like. What's in my boat now is like brown orange, and yes, seems like it would soak in water. Maybe it IS great stuff :) but I guess I will follow J's advice and get it out and use the two part. Looks fun anyway to watch it grow like a volcano erupting so what the heck :) Thanks again. Great videos
So what's the main purpose omfor the foam? Should I go ahead and foam mines?I'm taking it to the sea
Its a coast gaud requirement to keep smaller boats floating just at the surface if you get swamped. Check your regulations on your boat size to see if you need to do it.
What about under the deck did you fiberglass? ?? Chop string?? Im about to fiberglass my deck down permanent was curious if I should put sum fiberglass matt or just rezin it up n be good???
Yep.. one layer of chop strand
GREAT video! Thanks so much!
Noise damping, more boyance or hull stability? What's the foams purpose? Not knocking your video I'm just wondering? I build yachts are you compressing the stringer compartments?
what does "compressing the stringers mean"? I'm rebuilding my boat that has 2 stringers I am replacing. Any info is greatly appreciated. Thx
Refrigerate it before using ?
I'm getting ready to foam my deck. Is there anything you'd change since you did this project? I'm a little hesitant in drilling huge holes in my deck to pour the foam. If you had to do it all over again, would you drill the holes?
I live down the road from you, in McKinney and am restoring my boat out in front of my house....in the street. My rebuild thread is on Texas Hot boats located under "Boat Projects" and "Crusader Project".
Did you use all 10 gallons of foam? or did you have a lot left over? I am doing my 16ft Reinell and it seems like this stuff expands alot for what little you used.
That reminds me of that old film, the blob! lol
Put the funnel in a can with a hole in the bottom to stabilize it.
I thinking of working on my boat in two months, i have a 1980 holiday 242 cruiser, should i first work with the stringer and work myself back to the transom?
I may have made a mistake.... I have purchased a checkmate didn’t realize it had soft spots. Can I just fix the soft spots back of boat... I knew the floor was soft... only 18 ft boat is it worth fixing????
If the floor is soft I can almost guarantee the stringers are rotten too. And if the stringers are rotten, the transom is likely to be rotten too. It's never "just the floor"
It is a great method but the problem you will later find out is the deck will have a swollen look. If you take a straight edge you will find that the deck is no longer fare. Other than that it is very informative. Thank you.
It makes me want rice crispy treats:-)
The foam that your putting in is that the same as what they do to acBoston Whaler it has full flotation. Isn’t that foam for the same purpose?
Great Video...Finally someone did one on foaming a fiberglass hull. My boats styrofoam was so waterlogged that with the heavy motor water would come into the splash bay. I was thinking of replacing the deck and doing the sprayfoam like you did, however after reading some of the comments i am confused...If i don't use any foam flotation how is my boat going to stay above water. Why doesn't someone make like an air inflating Bladder?????
Following
I wanted to ask on the corsa exhaust video where did you get the stainless outlets from
It was an option from Costa. I think they were 500 a pair.
How many cubic feet did you fill? and how many gallons did it take?
Make sure you check out the website which is linked on my channel page. It has pictures too.
What does the foam do for the boat?
Helps to keep from sinking if you get a hole. Many small boats have it in the bench seat built in from factory.
Nice work but what perplexes me is that you are an experienced boater , how did you miss this mushy deck when you bought the boat
It was hidden by a cooler and it was freezing cold. I totally rushed it.
What is the function of the foam? Support? Flotation? Thanks.
Floatation. It does nothing until the boat sinks.
im so lucky. im redoing the deck in my new boat. mine is a 1990 spectrum 17 ft aluminium. mine is already foamed. it will be getting a 90hp mariner. it will be fast
hi frisco what did you around the bung area . did the foam go right to the bung
What is the purpose of this foam under the deck?
floatation and to keep deck from sagging while walking around
B.O.A.T. stands for ---bust out another thousand
instead of drilling holes at all you should have foamed before you laid the deck. Then shave it level with the strigers then brushed it all with resin to seal the top of the foam.
+catfisher420 t don't work, lund and crestliner already have this water loging going on under there floors
You should have used Injectadeck Marine Foam, then you drill a TINY HOLE and use stronger NON SHRINKABLE structural marine foam. You see when "flotation foams "Shrink" which they do. Your thin fiberglass hull has no backing and cracks along the strakes. I put 2ea 3' long cracks in a McKee Craft. www,injectadeck.com
That sounds like the way to do it. I'm just learning about boats.
I think it is better to paint the deck on the bottom side and use a rigid foam
which is not flexible. Make some extra small holes and make it worm by
the hair drier before than apply foam. The foam has to rise and stick to the
deck.
Sorry about my English.
I bow to you sir. I got the skillsaw out for about an hour, before I decided to pay to have it done. The man I hired had the top half of the boat hanging from the ceiling and had easy access to everything. He used closed cell foam because it doesn't absorb water. Unlike the original stuff. You're gonna have a lot of fun with that Sea Ray.👍
how much did those two buckets cost?
This is extremely interesting
I just bought an older lucraft and wanted to know if the hull is hollow. If so is it possible to do this.
can you put down foam first then trim it and put down the deck?
+My Damn Channel You could, but then need to cut it level
+My Damn Channel Yes. The best way is to drill many small holes for venting and calculate how much resin per pure you need. It needs to ooz and blowout all the holes. If not all you are doing is making cavities under the deck. Pre forming works great. Use a long sanding block with 36 grip paper glued to it and just sand it flat. Then bed the deck in resin thickened with fumed silica. This is a very bad example of how to do it.
Thanks!
Hi, just wondering how your boat is holding up after 5 years?
I just bought a 1979 23" fiberglass boat with a cuddy that needs a floor. I'm going with 8# foam, it's bouancy is 54lbs per cu/ft vs the 2# @ 60lbs. It's a 10% difference in bouancy as I need structure more than anything and the 8# is 5 times stronger.
Suggestion....:After pouring into hole , cap that hole , so as foam will have to move towards air hole(s). When foam expands it will fill more evenly ?/?
I’m not a boat man but was thinking the exact thing. Force the foam into every crevice by blocking the hole.
As long as you want a flat and level floor don’t do that. You need a few holes where the foam can release the pressure. If you don't have enough holes, the foam will flow towards the other hole and in the meantime it will push your wood floor up. Don’t underestimate the power of expanding foam!
Can I do the same as what you did with the existing fiberglass just to fix it
think of cutting holes before putting the deck down ?
+lord cu mopton God idea, but you really don't know the right place until you get it down!
New to your channel, I really enjoy the way you explain things. I got another question on another one of your videos about the difference in transom thickness. But my question on this video is since you have done this are there any other alternatives to expanding foam? I have seen some kits on ebay for spraying inside the walls of a home, is that not good enough?
I see different weights.. This is what I found. 3 lb. Urethane Foam 2 part rigid liquid Polyurethane Foam 8 lb. kit SO would that be enough to do a 2ft wide by 4ft long by 6 inch deep?
great videos by the way ,
thanks for sharing frisco. you da man!!
really nice, very informative
where did you get all your fiberglass and resin from local ? I'm in Dallas looking to buy some for my deck
While you are topside pouring foam down the drilled holes, how do you know that the expansion is not causing the bottom of the boat to bulge out or even split open in places where the fiberglass might be weak? There has to be a better method that would insure you that you are getting a complete fill. Why not drill many holes 3/8" and use aerosol cans?
I have learned from do this alot. Each compartment had two holes plus the 3/8 holes. If you take your time you are fine.
Why don't plug holes after inject foam to stop the effusion?
with that foam, does that mean you could put more weight in the boat?
No
I always wondered why not build stringers from plastic poly board and spray bedliner..wouldnt that last forever
How would attach them to the hull? The plastic board isn't nearly strong enough.
You have to drill small air holes around the area and the foam will track towards those holesand fill the cavity. Nice job though.
I actually did in some places, and there were alot of times two holes in a cavity.
Man Brother been watching your Boat issue back when you bought it. I know what you went through. I had a similar problem with my Malibu Ski after purchase. Mine was more engine and rust but the feeling of that Shiny new boat is sometimes deceiving. I told my wife that you remind me of me with the Jet Ski projects too. Lol.
I have been working with 2 part foam for years and I know you have to make sure the A&B parts are mixed real good before mixing together or it can cause it to fail . But I have got bad fore straight from the dealers .
Foams can break down because of Age, cold weather ,improper storage, improper mixing.
Great job because its a pain
Pick up a grinding shield full face they are only a few bucks at harbor freight. They have s clear plastic front shield.
oh ok I remember you saying in a video or so back that you were thinking of using balloons to hold the drains open so you just filled in everywhere but the fuel tank and ski locker correct? Wish me luck yall stay safe
Kevin
We never did any drain holes. I just sealed up the compartments the best I could and called it a day.
does the foam add any structural support
Jon Patterson absolutely
I know this was a few years ago, but rather than cardboard tubes why not modify PVC tubing for the job. Cardboard will deteriorate and block the limber hole. How did it turn out for you?