How to a Draft a Basic Block (Natalie Bray Version)
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- Опубліковано 20 сер 2024
- Hi Guys! Welcome to another video. Today's video is going to be an updated version of the Natalie Bray's Basic Block.
Watch the first one here
• HOW TO: DRAFT A BASIC ...
The first version was done in Centimeters, and you guys requested it to be done in inches, so here we are!
I hope you guys enjoy this tutorials as much as I did
Find the PDF of Dress Pattern Designing by Natalie Bray here
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#bodicepattern #howtomakeabasicblock #howtodraftablock #nataliebray #basicblock #patterncutting #sewing #beginners #corsets
Hey Lovelies, I just added a link to the PDF Copy of the book(Natalie Bray) in the description box, just scroll to the bottom of the page. You’ll find it there.❤❤
Ma please, I'm a new member I clicked on the link but it keeps saying it has been removed😢😢
Hi.please check again.. it’s linked now
@@mercyadamsinseams ok ma,thank you
Hello ma'am please I will like to know how to adjust a bodice block to a size I want, without having to start drafting from the beginning.
Thank you so much ❤ may this act of kindness be rewarded in 100 folds. You made my day
God bless you sis🙏 you're not stingy with your knowledge! I just followed! Love the way u teach and you don't hold back❤❤
Fantastic tutorial. So much detail easy to understand 👍🤩
Thank you so much, the value I get from your channel is mind blowing. God bless you
Thank you so much!
@@mercyadamsinseams
Thank you for always helping us out. Pls can you help with bodice/3 part croset tutorial of bust 47, waist 45 and hip 58.
You're such a blessing. I've been trying to get this book but couldn't afford it. Thanks a lot❤❤❤
Thank you so much for this wonderful tutorial, grateful 🙏, please I would like you to consider doing a trouser tutorial, God bless you, thank you for also using inches as promised❤
Thank you so very much, i was confused about the excess but i see it can be used as sewing allowance. I now understand this more thanks to you ma. Much love ❤
Thank you so much for the tutorial. Very comprehensive ❤ my first time here but i am liking and loving it already.
Welcome back 🙏. God bless you a million times
You’re welcome
Thank you for this!!!! So well done, so clear. I found this because I saw your BEAUTIFUL pink jacket on Instagram. So I am hoping to see how you converted this into a jacket!
Ah yes! 😊. Yes it will be posted here. I’m working my way through the editing . Looking to post soon. I hope you stay tuned. Will also post updates of Instagram.
Ahhh!!
Thanks a trillion dear. I’ve had this book for months now, and you just demystified what looked like Greek for me😂😂.
May God bless you.
You're so welcome!
Thank you for the tutorial, being waiting for it, God bless you more 🙏
You're welcome 😊
Thank you so much for your efforts❤️
You're welcome 😊
Thank you so much for this detailed tutorial.
I’m speechless!!
My bodice block came out exactly like yours. Please how can I achieve the right corset cup with it especially around the armhole area. I have difficulty getting a good curve. Thank you so much ma
I have same challenge with my corset too. Please let me know how you have been able to resolve yours
Thank so happy to be here
Glad to have you here 🤗
I absolutely loved this tutorial and your painstaking approach to teaching. Not only am I subscribing but I’m referring. ❤❤❤❤❤ Could you kindly make a video showing a sleeve tutorial using the Natalie Brays method? I love your content! Thanks 🙏 😊😊😊
Thank you and glad to have you here. The sleeve Block will be included in my upcoming course , amongst other pattern-making techniques and designing basic blocks, which Will be available very soon.
I have really learnt a lot from ur channel ma. Your so good ❤
Glad you find it helpful ♥️
Thank you 🙏 so ma I really appreciate you for this God bless you
You are so welcome
Oh my goodness! You are phenomenal ❤ & you are a rare gem😘
Thank you♥️
thank you so much
being waiting a long time
God bless you Sis 🙏🙏🙏
You’re welcome ❤️
👏👏👏👏👏👏. Thank you so much.
You are so welcome!
Yehhh, thank you so much, mercy
You're welcome 😊
Thank you mercy ❤🎉
You are so welcome
Thank you so much ❤
You're welcome 😊
Thank you for the tutorial . I do have a question; How do I deduct them instead of using it as seam allowance?
You’re welcome ! It’s the Same method.. find the difference.. mark it out on the side seam. But beware of over shaping as it alters the armhole.
You are blessed and highly favored in Jesus name wow you are a gem ❤❤❤❤
Amen! And you too ❤️
Finally thanks you so much ❤❤❤❤❤❤❤
Thanks for your time, God bless you real good . Please for the true waist shaping which part is to be eliminated . Thanks
None is eliminated. Only the lower waistline is usually used
Thanks for taking your time to teach us ma'am ♥️.
Please how can I get the proportion table
Send me a DM on IG with your email.
Hello ma'am please I will like to know how to adjust a bodice block to a size I want, without having to start drafting from the beginning.
Thank you 🙏❤️
You’re welcome
God bless u well done
Thank you!
I love this tutorial this is one of my favourite basic bodice block pattern method, but after testing out the pattern my problem here is that the front shoulder slant seam goes towards the back,it seams the side slant area of the back is shorter and the front is long please 🙏 i need help and a solution to this problem.
Hi. Can you send DM on IG with pictures.. I’d be able help better.
Thank you so much for this. My question is, when reading proportions we only consider the bust size right? for instance my bust size is 88 cm, we read the third row on the proportion part. what to do if I have a different size hips and waist from the ones corresponding with the bust size 88 on the chart? say one has bust 88cm, waist 73cm and hips 104cm?
You’re welcome. Replace every other measurement with your actual measurements ( remember the table is just for average measurements) only time you can use the average measurements listed on the charts is when you don’t have a specific measurement to work with.
thank you so much @@mercyadamsinseams
Thanks so much for this, God bless you. My question is whenever u use this pattern my shoulder is somehow not fitted, can u please explain how u can fix it
When make lower necklines with smaller widths on the shoulders.you can trim off 1/2” from the Neck side of the shoulder and blend towards the end of the shoulder(armhole side) note: you are taking the 1/2” only from the side of the neck
Can we pls get a detailed sleeve block tutorial plsss
tha.nks ❤❤❤❤
Did Is Forget to say you are beautiful in and out? How could? ❤
Thank you so much! You’re too kind ♥️
Thank you very much for this tutorial. One question please. The length to waist measurement, how is it taken on the figure? Do you take it from neck point to waist or from the front neck? Mine is 17”, but after measuring it on my block from the neck point on my pattern I had 17 3/4”. I’ll be grateful to get a response from you
You’re welcome. The Center back length to waist is taken from the nape of the neck along the center back line, it should stop at the narrowest part on the waistline ( best way to find this point is to tilt slightly side ways) there’s also a video on how to take body measurements on my ( you can check it out for More context) . I hope this helps
Good job, I think I will rather use my bust span in place of quarter chest width an my bust point measurements in place of 4cm below the bust line ❤
If that works well for you, then that’s fine.. over time people adapt the pattern to match their specific preferences.
Please, how can I get the paper you took steps from?
Thank you
Thank you for this detailed tutorial, ma'am. How can I get the PDF copy of Natalie Bray's book, ma'am?
In the description
When I measured round my armhole after drafting I have 50cm and my top arm is 31cm what can I do to make it armhole fit with the sleeve .i raised it to shorten it but I didn’t see any difference when I remeasured.kindly enlighten me on what to do to correct that.
Hi, how much did you add to the top arm measurement before drafting?
I have not drafted the sleeve….I thought you mentioned that after drafting the bodice and measuring the armhole,the measurement of the armhole must be equals to top arm + 13 cm .
As my top arm + 13cm is 43cm I thought I have 7cm excess that I am suppose to eliminate before drating the sleeve.
Please kindly put me through that part.
I answered that because you wanted to know how make the armhole fit the sleeve. So I assumed you had done that.
19cm is a lot of excess. What is the ease on the bust area of the bust area of the bust, and what is your actual bust measurement?
My bust is 92cm….I had 4cm excess on my bust which I have already eliminated on the true bust line.
If I had 50cm on my armhole,and the armhole is suppose to measure top arm +13cm on the average. And my top arm is 31cm ,I thought I am suppose to add my top arm 31+13cm =43cm .i felt I am having 7cm excess since I measured 50cm as armhole circumference.But you mentioned that I have 19cm excess?
What am I not getting right in my explanation?
So you have 7cm extra excess on the armhole? Not sure how come, I’m a bust 92cm as well, my Top arm is also 31cm and I’ve never had that much excess in the armhole after the normal 12-13cm more than Top arm. Would you mind sending photos of your draft? Just to see how best I can help. My email is in my profile.
Did you add seam allowance after you were finished because I dont think there is any seam allowance added in the block.
The block has ease alone. For added seam allowance , i usually round up the ease of the bust waist and hips to make up for a seam allowance .
@@mercyadamsinseams I dont really understand? You mean the 1.5cm of ease added on those points, bust, waist and hips? Is there a way you can explain further. I have my block which I finished but want to sew it to check the fit. And remembered seam allowance. Should I just add 1/2 in seam allowance all around except the CF. And 5/8 for the CB.
Hope what I said made some sense 😊
You can do that if you’re just making a mock up first. But for more context, there’s a part two of the video ‘ waist reduction’
Hello ma
How can I get Natalie bray pattern drafting book?
Hi, you can download it from the link in my IG bio ‘Basic bodice pdf’
I really love your explanation.......please, how did you get the measurement of the length to waist. Did you take the measurement from the front or back
Thank you! The length to waist measurement was taken form the nape of the neck along the center back line to the narrowest part of the waist. See this tutorial on how to take measurements
ua-cam.com/video/qjFgST5_W_8/v-deo.htmlsi=fob-G2bH27FfQ7Gf
@@mercyadamsinseamsthanks so much
I just studied the PDF you provided. Thank you! How do you feel about bust darts from the side seam? Have you worked through that method?
You’re very welcome! Side darts works just the same as the shoulder . And darts can always be moved around by preference . Same with this as well. It can me moved by first marking a line from the new position, connecting to the end(tip ) of the shoulder dart by using the slash and method. I hope this helps
Good morning ma'am. This is the best session to ask my question.
The time stamp is 1:03:22 which explains in detail the armhole adjustment , whether to enlarge or decrease.
Based on the measurements used above by you, there was an excess but in a situation whereby I got the accurate measurement for the armhole provided in the proportion table, and we already had an excess of two inches at the bust area which you advised that it should be used as allowance.
Now this is my question.
I used a small measurement of bust 32 inches and I got the exact armhole on the proportion table which happened to be 15.75 inches. If I take in the 2inches allowance at the bust, leaving the armhole to be 13.75, it was too tight for the armhole.
Is it advisable to increase the armhole to 17.75 so that if the 2inches allowance is taken , the armhole would fall in place or what is the best way to adjust that.
Big thanks at @mercyadamsinseam
Hi! I get your question . You asked this same question on the waist reduction tutorial, I posted the response already but here it is again.
I talked about how to deal with the armhole, either excess or less and also mentioned garments should be fitted( tested) to determine how you’d want it to fit.The Natalie Block is drafted with excess allowance. You can choose to leave the excess or not based to your personal style preferences.
In more context , if I my armhole is exactly
12cm in excess( as stated by the book) I can either drop the armhole as a way to create more room assuming I’m using 2.5cm (1”) seam allowance or reduce the seam allowance to 1cm(1/2”) or even add seam to the bust to accommodate the fit around my armhole.
Also in the video I stressed how every basic block is to be tested to fit. So just adjust to your preferences. In your case instead of using the excess on the bust as Seam, you can add an extra 1.5cm on the bust and blend/ connect back to waist.
Thanks very much 💖💖💖
You are an incredible tutor …..
Thank you for the video, just come across your channel, where to get the proportion table please?
You’re welcome . Pls DM me on IG. With your email, will forward it
OK thanks
Mercy, you're too much! Thumbs up... But my concern is the difference in the length between the front and the back block, will it not reflect on the blouse length after sewing?
... Usually from the suit pattern, we normally have the back shoulder line higher than the front... So in this case,you're making us to have the back from point'0' lower or lesser than the front...
how could the blouse looks like with the front shoulder line higher than the back from point '0'?
Thank you!
Thank you !
Reason the front goes higher up than the back is to accommodate the fullness of the bust. The back is flat( not in all sense tho, hope you get the idea) . Now based on other methods of pattern making , this may Differ. The method used in this tutorial ( Natalie Bray) is not universal. So when you say ‘the suit pattern’ I’m not sure what method you’re referring to. I hope this helps .
Thank you so much. Please I would like to get a better understanding of using the proportion table. If my bust is 105, am I to use 104 or 108, as it on the chart?
You’re welcome . 104 and 105 is very close . You can use 104 on the chart.
Please How can I get the chat?
Thanks so much, but is a long process
Okay!
No ma, I didn't mean it that way I love your work so much, I pray to reach ur level in sewing, just that Natalie bodice block is long process, will I go thru this process in all cutting, I mean can I use one pattern for all size and make my changings on the under burst ? Is it possible?
@@chinemerememmanuella4215 oh no! I meant it’s fine if you feel it’s a long process for you. It’s true it takes time but if done right, it’s worth it. Do give it a try if you can! And this is not a one size fits all bodice block. One draft cannot fit every size or measurements
Thank you ma for this.
Please where can I get this book am in Lagos state Nigeria
You’re welcome . You can send me a DM on IG( linked in my bio) with your email.
Good day ma’am,what could be the reason I have excess at my back area around across back point?i used the across back measurement in the book
May I ask, was there a reason you used the books measurement in place of yours? If you drafted the block using the measurements in the book. How is it then supposed to match your actual back width?
Always use your measurements in place of the average measurement in the book. The only time you can used the books measurements is when you don’t have a specific measurement to work with. There’s a video on how to take measurements for this block. You can watch that for more context.
My back width was lesser than what is in the book.i thought that it was wrong.
@akinsurojuadesola9636. Okay. But it may not necessarily be wrong. Remember you’re drafting to fit your body. Just make sure the back with measurement is taken right( properly reaching the sides of both arm)
Maybe give it another try and see how it works out.
Okay….thanks for your response
I drafted the pattetn but i only have excess at the bust 😢, please let me know how i can fix it.
Hi. Can you tell me how much excess you have in the bust? It will help in giving the best way to fix it.
By 1.25 inches on the true bust line
@shadthreads okay,
if the waist and the Hip measurement on block is exact, and the bust is 1 1/4” more, one way to fix this is to use that excess as seam allowance.
So, To make an even seam allowance on the bust, use 4” - 1 1/4”(bust excess ) whatever you get, divide by 4 and add on side seam on both the back and front bodice)
Then on the waist and hip, add 1” side seam allowance to match up.
I hope this helps. Let me know if you get it.
@@mercyadamsinseams it worked thank you so much ❤️😊
Awesome! And well done 👏👏👏
Bsr ma belle,j'aurais voulu que la vidéo soit sous-titré stp
Please can you send me the PDF version of the Dress Design by Nathalie Bray? Thank you
Sure. Pls send me Dm on IG.
I can’t find your handle on IG
❤❤❤❤❤❤❤
Uma pena que a tradução não está acontecendo
Hey. What language.. I can add it.
You promise to show how to ease out the excess on the bodice. Please don't forget that.
Please do a sleeve tutorial 🙏
I already did in the second part ‘waist reduction’
God bless you honey
Bless you too♥️
What if the bust circumference is large but the person has really small boobs, what size of dart would you use
You can size down on the dart.. to the next smaller dart
@@mercyadamsinseams thank you
How do i adjust the sleeves. Everytime I make a garment I always have a problem with the sleeves it's comes out very tight even though I have made the pattern according to their measurements. What am I doing wrong and how should I correct it?. I would really appreciate it if you could help me. Thank you 🤗
You add ease while drafting your sleeve
@@afomaejikeme238 yes I do that but I don't know why it doesn't work out. The armhole is okay but the sleeves in the bicep area gets tight.
When it comes to the sleeves. A few things to factor
Make The chest and the back width measurements are taken right. The sleeve block crown depth should be the right depth.
@@mercyadamsinseams thank you for your advice I'll do that. 🤗🤗
Please can someone learn from you? I mean physical class
Wow you are so beautiful
Aww! Thank you 🥰
Good evening ma I asked how I can get Natalie bray pattern drafting book and you said I should send you a DM on Instagram with my email which I have done but still waiting for your reply
Hi. I must have missed your message . I apologize . Pls resend