@@phatcrayonz No, I kind of missed that one. He only did brief explanation at the beginning, but the actual explanation is missing. Some sort of premium content, I guess?
Finally I understand the shifting part! Great explaination with illustration of how it works. Now I can finally start using it the way it was meant to work.
By far the best explanation I've seen so far. Your audio sounds exactly like you're at a Ted Talk (in a good way). I was startled when I saw you in a small room 😆
Yes me to. Shift alone will stretch or distort the edges I believe. Same effect as a wide angle lens I wonder if incorporating the tilt eliminates the distortion?
What about keeping the body straight for the architecture pictures, but just lifting it above your head? That wouldn’t be the same, because the tilt/shift lens method is really aiming to photoshop two images into one?
This is just a short clip from a longer talk on Tilt/Shift lens, which in itself is just part of a two day class on Nature and Landscape photography available at Creative Live.
Great video, however I have one question. For shift, couldn't you achieve the same effect by positioning the camera straight ahead and then raise the entire camera up or lower it? Wouldn't that have the same effect?
Hello John, your end example of multiple images (3 shots) for a panoramic, you said a better way would be to keep the lens still and shift the body? How is that any different optically? Or what are the benefits to stabilizing the lens and shifting the camera body? Thanks.
The image circle of tilt lenses is much larger than that of a typical lens that is created for the same image sensor. That's why tilt shift lenses are much softer than cheaper lenses of the same focal length and maximum aperture. So sharp tilt-shift lenses are usually expensive. Also due to the complex construction of tilt-sift lenses the autofocus is never available. However most tilt shift lenses are wide and the focus isn't so difficult.
Hi!! Which "angle of view" does the 17mm achieve from one side all the way to the other? I mean, the 11mm (of the canon 11-24mm f4) reach 126° 5'. The 17mm in center position reach 104°. Do you know how manu degrees equivalent the TS gets from one side all the way to the other on shift? The full image circle of the TS 17mm is equivalent to 11mm? Thanks!!
on 2:20 you wrote: "medium format cameras that you put on your smaller sensor" didn't you mean: APCS or full frame lenses put on medium format sensor bodies? because it seems to me that to get the tilt working you need a bigger sensor then the lens itself, in order to avoid dead areas in the picture. or maybe you wanted to say "medium format cameras that you put on your smaller lenses" (and not sensors)? or did I miss something in here?
I bet he meant to say medium format LENSES that you put on smaller sensor cameras. To use shift you need a lens that covers significantly more surface area than the size of the sensor. If you would take a regular lens that's made for e.g. APS-C and you would somehow be able to make it shift, there would be nothing to show because the lens is made to only cover the APS-C sensor (well, usually a bit more but this part of the image is not meant to be seen and is often unsharp, shows vignetting etc.). When you look at the examples he's showing, you see he's moving the lens left/right and up/down and there's still a lot of "spare image" outside the frame.
@@Ni5ei Yes, what you wrote now, sounds to me to be the most correct sentence, "medium format LENSES that you put on smaller sensor cameras". good for you! (-:
but if you Orthomosaic w/ sidestep images doesn't it outweight the tilt-shifting lensing capability because you are limited to how far it can "shift" because with sidestep orthomosaic it's pretty much infinite
One more thing you can do with this lenses is put your camera in vertical position, leveled and pointed to a still subject that will allow you take two shifted horizontally vertical images to match with one image what your right eye would see and the other image what your left eye would see. Then you can pair them up to view them with a 3D viewer. There are charts to guide you through necessary testing yo get right the adjustments to get the 3D effect. This charts will relate to focal length, distance between the camera and the first plane of focus, and the distance between shots. But what a tilt shift lens will do is keep in just one lens, one camera in a tripod pointed to a not moving subject every thing in line to get the best effect posible with a camera that is not a 3D camera with two separate lenses. Im still working on the fine tuning of it but I have got very good results with the Canon 90 mm lens and the Canon 24 mm lens so far. Panoramas are great too, because ones stitched together you end up with a low distortion and higher resolution file in stead of a spherical distortion appearance of a panorama where you are stitching images of a camera on a rotating tripod. As well as a higher resolution than a single frame image shot on a wider angle lens and cropped to obtain the panoramic format and even larger than an uncroped full frame image of the same camera..... I have four Tilt/shift lenses that I use to shoot landscape, architecture, product, food and editorial work with and I will tell you that if you learn enough of how to use them it can be one of the greatest tools available for professionals.
@@VolodymyrTorkalo Yes you can. There is a lot of different ways to do. I love to work for this type of shots with TSE lenses for many reasons: Less distortion, larger files and image quality in general. I use wide angle lenses like the 16-35 and many others more for street photography and action shots in my case. My TSE lenses I use for comercial architecture interiors and exteriors, food photography and miniature look urban shots I shoot for editorial work.
@@ClickDecoClick ts-e isn't less distortion. Perspective distortion depends only on distance to object. Actually barrel distortion will be worse in tse 17 because correction profile for it doesn't exist Also it't not true that tilt shift doesn't loose quality during correction - sharpness penalty is comparable with stretching in lightroom. That's why most of major lens manufacturers doesn't produce ts lenses - like Sony, fuji, olympus. Even canon ts lenses are from 2009 and no ts produced for RF system.
@@VolodymyrTorkalo What ever makes you happy when you put your own name to an image is the right for you. Same here. In my opinion based in my own knowledge and results TSE lenses are my plan A when doing this type of images. Im not committed to any specific tool, system or workflow and I adapt any of those to my projects. In fact, I shot for many years with a 4"x5" Sinnar monorail P2 camera architecture and to me that's the best tool available still but film, chemicals, scanning and times of execution make that a tool just for fine art work this days. Good luck with your plan A.
I very much admire all of John's presentation and delivery skills. But, as is always the case, what failed to get mentioned here and the most important fact, is that the picture of the tree could have been shot level with a wide lens. What you would be left with is a shot with way too much ground. But then, you just crop out the ground. So, in short, everyone had a tilt shift lens as long as they can afford to crop many of their pixels, which I know is a big assumption. There is nothing magic about a tilt shift lens, it is essentially just a "crop" that uses your entire sensor... which is really nice, but it is also very easy to simulate/duplicate with a "normal" lens.
Actually, he mentioned that you could achieve a similar effect by cropping at the 4:00 mark. He explained the perspective correction technique instead of your wide-angle lens trick, but explained that you lose pixels and that's the reason the shift is useful. You're right, there's nothing "magical" necessarily about tilt/shift lenses, but they do offer functionality that you just can't achieve with a normal setup.
4:02 Not stretch out the top but squeeze the bottom. When you would stretch the top you wouldn't be cropping the image but you'd be degrading quality. The red lines are correctly showing it but you're saying it wrong.
I don't really get it. Why can't you just point the camera straight at the object with a regular lens and then just move the entire camera body up a little higher without messing up the levels for the straight lines instead of purchasing an expensive lens that just moves up a couple inches... Am I missing something here?
A few mm in a shift would translate into feet of movement to get the same shot. Just think about moving the camera up a few mm while being parallel to the ground; that won't have much of a change as would a shift in the lens. Essentially, you get the coverage of what say a 35mm camera has while on a crop sensor. Being that a 35mm will show a more apparent wider angle at any given focal length, you can take advantage of that on the APS-C format. Light is also entering in from a different angle to the sensor than what normally would occur on a TS lens.
It would have been better if you had used the verbs "tilt" and "shift" instead of moving or twisting. It would have enabled us to directly understand what part of the lens you were manipulating.
![Why not to buy a tilt-shift lens [Fuji 30/5.6].Tilt-shift isn't magic, what do the lenses really do](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Zt9DjlaiUHA/mqdefault.jpg)
![Why not to buy a tilt-shift lens [Fuji 30/5.6].Tilt-shift isn't magic, what do the lenses really do](/img/tr.png)
The best explanation with excellent examples i have seen. Thank you!!!
1:11 I saw a different word coming lol
LMAO
But what about the tilting?
Emil Macko he explained it.
@@phatcrayonz He didn't do examples. He didn't explain the miniature effect.
@@marcg3923 Nope, he states using the shift capability for panoramas
@@phatcrayonz No, I kind of missed that one. He only did brief explanation at the beginning, but the actual explanation is missing. Some sort of premium content, I guess?
To alter the plane of focus
One of the best TS lens explanations on UA-cam. Well done and thank you.
It's easy to find videos explaining the tilting. I really appreciate the explanation of the shift function!
An excellent video. As a pro photographer I have used these lenses - but I must confess never to do panoramas. I've really learned something new here.
Thanks for the lesson and explanation. Cleared it all up for me at one go today.
Finally I understand the shifting part! Great explaination with illustration of how it works. Now I can finally start using it the way it was meant to work.
By far the best explanation I've seen so far. Your audio sounds exactly like you're at a Ted Talk (in a good way). I was startled when I saw you in a small room 😆
Unfortunately, you didn't demonstrate the tilt/swing action, and that's the bit that confuses me.
Yes me to. Shift alone will stretch or distort the edges I believe. Same effect as a wide angle lens I wonder if incorporating the tilt eliminates the distortion?
I habe yet to see a better video on this subject! Thank you so much for this.
Fantastically beautiful piece of explanation, always wondered how it works, I found this video, and booomm… Hats of! Thank you!
best explanation i found. thanks. now to find the tilt explanation
Thanks for the explanation. I always wonder what tilt and shift means. Wonderful^^
What about keeping the body straight for the architecture pictures, but just lifting it above your head? That wouldn’t be the same, because the tilt/shift lens method is really aiming to photoshop two images into one?
Incredible explanation. Thank you.
Everything seems so much more interesting when you have to write a long essay
Thank god I'm not alone on this... XD
Kudos for the professional graphics!
this was really well done
Thank you for sharing and great job with the video explanation which has straight forward examples!
Thanks, this was very easy to understand.
I was curious about these type of lenses and this video was great for learning about the.
i never knew i wanted a tilt/shift lens until i watched this!!!
what about the tilt function ? the title should be changed to "Shift Lens : Expllained"
Great explanation of shift features. Side by side comparison and use of video where quite illuminating.
Great video, detailed and good visual examples
I wish you would go into detail on how to keep the lens stable and move the body. Is there specialized equipment needed?
This is just a short clip from a longer talk on Tilt/Shift lens, which in itself is just part of a two day class on Nature and Landscape photography available at Creative Live.
+Emil M I found it buy you have to pay 99$ for it
www.creativelive.com/courses/nature-and-landscape-photography-john-greengo
+John Greengo Your classes seem very good and well explained, It's one of the things I wish I had the money to invest in, best of luck
+John Greengo lol you must get a lot of jokes about your last name.
Excellent, thank you! Quick question: Shift looks amazing for Panoramic, how good would Shift + Nodal-point Panning be?
I've got the 17mm and love it. It also accepts the 1.4x extender, so I can get 24mm. The 50mm Tilt-Shift f/2.8 is on my wishlist.
good video and good graphics. i missed an explanation of the tilting capabilities tho
Thank you, very clear explained
Very well put across but seemed to end part way through. Ive subscribed.
your video is going to make tilt shift lenses even more expensive :( is just too good
Very nice presentation
Thanx for sharing
very clear explanation! thank you
Great for vertoramas as well. Really need a 24TS
Very good explanation Thank you
Great explanation, well done thanks.
Very interesting. I learned on large format view cameras but I had no idea they had lenses that did it.
Great video, however I have one question.
For shift, couldn't you achieve the same effect by positioning the camera straight ahead and then raise the entire camera up or lower it? Wouldn't that have the same effect?
Question... Isn't raising the camera up or down on a tripod and sliding it left and right on a nodal rail just as effective?
Thanks for the info
Hello John, your end example of multiple images (3 shots) for a panoramic, you said a better way would be to keep the lens still and shift the body? How is that any different optically? Or what are the benefits to stabilizing the lens and shifting the camera body? Thanks.
How do you move the body and not the lens? Great explanation, by the way
you done your job well
"in the rare case of vertical video where its okay" *silently judges you* Just kidding, thank you for the great info!
This was amazing!!!!
How do you move the body instead of the lens?
I want a TS lens now, but looking at the prices, that brought me back to reality 😭
Is it best to always use a tripod or can you handheld as well ?
thanks dear.
I agree with Joel, well done!
Thx. When you say at 3:12 'twist it upwards' do you mean 'tilt lens upwards'?
Thank you 🙏🙏
Thank you so much
great video
great explanation but what about the tilt?
thank you
What ARE the ways to move the body and stabilize the lens position: using a collar mount to tripod?
There are special tripod mounts that connect to the lens which then will allow for shifting the camera body while the lens stay stationary.
very good video
So is a tilt shift just a wide angle that you can crop in real time?
THX - interesting!
Very well explained..
As a landscape photographer shooting Nikkor, which would be the better PC-E lens: the 24mm or the 45mm?
I would love one BUT it looks quite complicated to use and I'm wondering if it is user specific?
And what about the advantages in the depth of field for product photography?
This is amazing.
Miniturization set up?
Thanks!
Interesting. Thank you.
The image circle of tilt lenses is much larger than that of a typical lens that is created for the same image sensor.
That's why tilt shift lenses are much softer than cheaper lenses of the same focal length and maximum aperture.
So sharp tilt-shift lenses are usually expensive.
Also due to the complex construction of tilt-sift lenses the autofocus is never available.
However most tilt shift lenses are wide and the focus isn't so difficult.
Hi!! Which "angle of view" does the 17mm achieve from one side all the way to the other? I mean, the 11mm (of the canon 11-24mm f4) reach 126° 5'. The 17mm in center position reach 104°. Do you know how manu degrees equivalent the TS gets from one side all the way to the other on shift? The full image circle of the TS 17mm is equivalent to 11mm? Thanks!!
Thanks.
on 2:20 you wrote: "medium format cameras that you put on your smaller sensor"
didn't you mean: APCS or full frame lenses put on medium format sensor bodies?
because it seems to me that to get the tilt working you need a bigger sensor then the lens itself, in order to avoid dead areas in the picture.
or maybe you wanted to say "medium format cameras that you put on your smaller lenses" (and not sensors)?
or did I miss something in here?
I bet he meant to say medium format LENSES that you put on smaller sensor cameras.
To use shift you need a lens that covers significantly more surface area than the size of the sensor. If you would take a regular lens that's made for e.g. APS-C and you would somehow be able to make it shift, there would be nothing to show because the lens is made to only cover the APS-C sensor (well, usually a bit more but this part of the image is not meant to be seen and is often unsharp, shows vignetting etc.).
When you look at the examples he's showing, you see he's moving the lens left/right and up/down and there's still a lot of "spare image" outside the frame.
@@Ni5ei Yes, what you wrote now, sounds to me to be the most correct sentence, "medium format LENSES that you put on smaller sensor cameras". good for you! (-:
but if you Orthomosaic w/ sidestep images doesn't it outweight the tilt-shifting lensing capability because you are limited to how far it can "shift" because with sidestep orthomosaic it's pretty much infinite
Canon 24TSE lens doesn't come with a tripod collar? It should
Thanks you
Thanks man! :)
What you call Shift (vertically), would traditionally be Rise.
One more thing you can do with this lenses is put your camera in vertical position, leveled and pointed to a still subject that will allow you take two shifted horizontally vertical images to match with one image what your right eye would see and the other image what your left eye would see. Then you can pair them up to view them with a 3D viewer. There are charts to guide you through necessary testing yo get right the adjustments to get the 3D effect. This charts will relate to focal length, distance between the camera and the first plane of focus, and the distance between shots. But what a tilt shift lens will do is keep in just one lens, one camera in a tripod pointed to a not moving subject every thing in line to get the best effect posible with a camera that is not a 3D camera with two separate lenses. Im still working on the fine tuning of it but I have got very good results with the Canon 90 mm lens and the Canon 24 mm lens so far. Panoramas are great too, because ones stitched together you end up with a low distortion and higher resolution file in stead of a spherical distortion appearance of a panorama where you are stitching images of a camera on a rotating tripod. As well as a higher resolution than a single frame image shot on a wider angle lens and cropped to obtain the panoramic format and even larger than an uncroped full frame image of the same camera..... I have four Tilt/shift lenses that I use to shoot landscape, architecture, product, food and editorial work with and I will tell you that if you learn enough of how to use them it can be one of the greatest tools available for professionals.
You can get rectilinear panorama using standart wide angle lens like 16-35. Just select this option in software and likes will be straight.
@@VolodymyrTorkalo Yes you can. There is a lot of different ways to do. I love to work for this type of shots with TSE lenses for many reasons: Less distortion, larger files and image quality in general. I use wide angle lenses like the 16-35 and many others more for street photography and action shots in my case. My TSE lenses I use for comercial architecture interiors and exteriors, food photography and miniature look urban shots I shoot for editorial work.
@@ClickDecoClick ts-e isn't less distortion. Perspective distortion depends only on distance to object. Actually barrel distortion will be worse in tse 17 because correction profile for it doesn't exist
Also it't not true that tilt shift doesn't loose quality during correction - sharpness penalty is comparable with stretching in lightroom.
That's why most of major lens manufacturers doesn't produce ts lenses - like Sony, fuji, olympus. Even canon ts lenses are from 2009 and no ts produced for RF system.
@@VolodymyrTorkalo What ever makes you happy when you put your own name to an image is the right for you. Same here. In my opinion based in my own knowledge and results TSE lenses are my plan A when doing this type of images. Im not committed to any specific tool, system or workflow and I adapt any of those to my projects. In fact, I shot for many years with a 4"x5" Sinnar monorail P2 camera architecture and to me that's the best tool available still but film, chemicals, scanning and times of execution make that a tool just for fine art work this days. Good luck with your plan A.
What software can I use for the "transformed" editing discussed in this video?
Adobe Lightroom would be the easiest to do for that, or Photoshop
I don'T get it.... just position the camera higher?
Awesome. Now I want one. 😐
What is the name of the gear that you just move the body instead of lens?
Fatih Gökmen gimbal? stabilizer? slider? tripod?
no tilt examples????
Why not use a tripod for shifting?
I think that not including demonstrations of tilt perfectly demonstrated it because I am feeling a bit tilted right now. Great video otherwise.
Ha, that panorama part reminds me of putting 35mm film in Mamiya 7
Why am I watching this? I’m literally just bored and watching random videos lol
I very much admire all of John's presentation and delivery skills. But, as is always the case, what failed to get mentioned here and the most important fact, is that the picture of the tree could have been shot level with a wide lens. What you would be left with is a shot with way too much ground. But then, you just crop out the ground. So, in short, everyone had a tilt shift lens as long as they can afford to crop many of their pixels, which I know is a big assumption. There is nothing magic about a tilt shift lens, it is essentially just a "crop" that uses your entire sensor... which is really nice, but it is also very easy to simulate/duplicate with a "normal" lens.
Actually, he mentioned that you could achieve a similar effect by cropping at the 4:00 mark. He explained the perspective correction technique instead of your wide-angle lens trick, but explained that you lose pixels and that's the reason the shift is useful. You're right, there's nothing "magical" necessarily about tilt/shift lenses, but they do offer functionality that you just can't achieve with a normal setup.
Instead of paying a ridiculous price for one of these, why not just use a rail and move left and right? Is there really a difference at that point?
Couldn't this be done with a tripod in the first place? I suppose this function pretty much makes sense with a tripod anyway.
Can't we just shift our arm upward?
youtube is very simple back in the days.
4:02
Not stretch out the top but squeeze the bottom.
When you would stretch the top you wouldn't be cropping the image but you'd be degrading quality. The red lines are correctly showing it but you're saying it wrong.
I don't really get it. Why can't you just point the camera straight at the object with a regular lens and then just move the entire camera body up a little higher without messing up the levels for the straight lines instead of purchasing an expensive lens that just moves up a couple inches... Am I missing something here?
A few mm in a shift would translate into feet of movement to get the same shot. Just think about moving the camera up a few mm while being parallel to the ground; that won't have much of a change as would a shift in the lens.
Essentially, you get the coverage of what say a 35mm camera has while on a crop sensor. Being that a 35mm will show a more apparent wider angle at any given focal length, you can take advantage of that on the APS-C format. Light is also entering in from a different angle to the sensor than what normally would occur on a TS lens.
what if i bring a slider? can i get the panoramic shot like the last one?
It would have been better if you had used the verbs "tilt" and "shift" instead of moving or twisting. It would have enabled us to directly understand what part of the lens you were manipulating.
Thanks, I know now what are these strange animals :-)
Why not just adjust the stand? I don't get it
So, you have never done any photography?