Old School LCD - Klipper - Chris's Basement - 2023
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- Опубліковано 30 лип 2024
- Today we're hooking up our old school LCD screen to our SK-GO using Klipper.
00:00 Introduction
02:59 Troubleshooting
07:19 Printer.CFG
17:48 Conclusion
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KINGPRINT 12864 LCD Graphic Smart Display Controller Board with Adapter and Cable for 3D Printer on Amazon:
geni.us/TA6m
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LCD Example on GitHub:
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Link to SKIPR config to copy alias from:
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this is probably the most needed tutorial in all of 3d printing right now seriously has such limited documentation and really is a head scratcher.
Thank you!
I would love a step by step guide to getting CANBUS working on this board. I want to adapt it to a Qidi X-Max 2 and I don't have enough space for all the cabling. Congratulations on your project and thanks for sharing this.
We will be doing something like this soon.
Yet another great video. Thanks for the tip on removing and repositioning (180 degrees) the LCD connectors! I have a few of these 12864 LCDs on my still working RepRap printers (relatives of LOG). It is nice to know I can reuse these as I build newer printers.
Happy to help. Thanks for watching!
Awesome! I can keep saving all my reprap screens for klipper builds!
That's a great idea! 🙂
You never cease to amaze me. Awesome. Thank you
Wow, thank you!
Cool! Your video was very helpful!
I'm so glad I could help! Thank you
Priceless thank you!!!!
Thanks for watching
Good stuff Chris, thanks for the video.
Thanks for watching
Great thorough tutorial on checking the diagram!
Thanks! 👍
Historically we used the red line on the cable for pin 1.
🙂👍
they are the best screens so far... the ender one is super
🙂👍
Nice work.
Thanks!
thanks chris its helping still find it funny A design i made where right in your face at the last event a polymakers marble run Part i draw 2500km away but this where only posible because of streamers like you and 3d printing cheeeers
Thank you!
One of my personal settings I put into Klipper setup is to attached a pushbutton to the board somewhere and user it as resume. Restores the M0/M1 functions from Marlin (I use this after warmup so I actually have togo to the printer and for manually doing a bed level at 0.25mm using a feeler gauge).
Nice! That's a really good tip.
I've used the full graphics LCD like that for a while now, after switching from Marlin. It works perfectly.
I've added a menu item to be able to shut the printer down and permanently mounted a USB thumbdrive to a sub folder of the gcode folder on the pi. Works as a treat.
Thanks for sharing!
The reset button is the best safety feature on those old screens. When shit goes down this is the quick way to halt Klipper. It does NOT reboot the pi. So Linux keeps running happily but the printer is stopped
Good to know, I will give it a test.
One other thing to check is the headers on the cables, I got a few where the header orientation is reversed.
Awesome, thanks for the tip!
Good tutorial, I had a bunch of Ender 5 screens and added those to my Rat Rigs - I don't do any input, just use them to monitor, work fine and the cost was right
Thanks Dave! Absolutely, why not? :)
Thank you so much for this. I've been wanting to get the screen showing some status for a while, but always found it confusing. Now I have it showing the basic stats for the print job. I'm using a BTT TFT 3.5 with SKR 1.4, and I used the no touch screen firmware.
Happy to help! Thanks for watching
Dam...... Now my brains are fried!
👍🙂
I really miss Z baby stepping white printing through the LCD. 😢
You can, but not in the Legacy display #
Agreed, that was one of my favorite features when it came out. :)
So the kill pin should act as emergency stop, same as it is on the web interface or issuing a M112 command via terminal, this will interrupt movement pretty quick and shutdown klipper. This will not shut down the system but will require a restart of the klipper service before you can do anything else. This means that the machine will default to motors off, hotend fan on and all heaters off. IMO this is one of the main reasons to even have control on the printer since you can stop it quickly if the machine is trying to destroy itself or something else you don't want damaged.
Like anything it is best to confirm behavior and settings with your own configuration as there can be small differences in implementation that can exhibit different behaviors than listed above.
Awesome info, I am going to set it up and give it a try.
This is great for z offset. Nothing like turning a knob.
👍🙂
I got lucky with my conversion for my Ender 5 Pro. The printer.cfg I found had the screen section. My Ender 5 Pro is the v1.1.5 8-bit board. I really like Klipper on it using a Pi 4B and a 7" touch screen.
That's great thanks for watching!
I still don't understand why those screen + rotary button boards used that many pins instead of just using I2C or SPI which would reduce wiring to 4 wires including power and GND. The extra wiring alone must cost more than a controller translating everything to a serial protocol.
Kind of an old school way of doing things. Sometimes trying to making things easier to use makes it more complicated.
The red line always signifies pin 1 not 5v.
Good to know!
I still use the old school lcds
👍🙂
So this is what I’m after but my SKR2 has 5v upper left but my cable has red line on bottom with notch to outside of board. Do I need to flip plastic connector on the board? Or does the red line even matter? Looking to match with ender 3 screen.
Red line doesn't matter, it's just a nice to have for it to be in the right location, but doesn't matter as long as both sides line up.
Is there a way to print off of the sd card at the printer? Is sending the files through wifi from fluid the only way to get files to the printer?
As far as I know, there is no way to print from the SD, you can only use it as a controller.
Will this work with any board (ie skr3 with pi) or does it have to be a board with a soc on the same pcb running klipper?
Any board that has the LCD ports in the pinout should work the same.
The red stripe is supposed to indicate pin 1. On the board schematic, that's indicated by the square around the pin.
That said, I might start using pin 1 = +V in future designs. 🤔
Thanks for the tip!
Is it possible to configure that reset button to act as a kill switch that stops a print using gcode?
Good question, I think it probably is. I would probably be just as easy as configuring it in the firmware.
@@ChrisRiley That would be cool if it were possible. I want to convert some of my printers to Klipper when I get time, so that would be a useful option rather than a reset button.
Great video! This is something that has been holding me back from trying Klipper for a long time now. Is the UI configurable? It seems like the font size is huge compared to Marlin.
Thanks! Not sure on the UI or where it is configured, but I'm sure there is a way.
How change the encoder rotation? Under Marlin, encoder rotation is correct.
You can flip the EN 1 and EN 2 pin numbers with each other.
@@ChrisRiley Thanks for the idea. It works! After a bit of research, looking at the pinouts, I had to swap the 3.25 and 3.26 EXP2 data in the printer.cfg file and it worked as I was used to with the Marlin.
Another question. If I have a skr2 and use a bigtreetech mini 12684 screen, which display layout would be best matched?
As far as the firmware? I think this is the one you would want. lcd_type: uc1701
@@ChrisRiley Thanks. Was there a link for the "alias" example you recommend and used in your example? Like to just cut and paste it in my printer.cfg.
@@jerseybarrier64 This is the screen side github.com/Klipper3d/klipper/blob/master/config/sample-lcd.cfg
You can copy the template from here:
github.com/makerbase-mks/MKS-SKIPR/blob/main/klipper%20firmware/skipr%20to%20voron%20V2.4.cfg
@@ChrisRiley nice, thank you! You’d da man 😄
hello
Hello, thanks for watching!