Home Made Mini 4WD Trophy Truck Project - Part 1
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- Опубліковано 5 вер 2024
- Today we are starting a new chain driven 4WD project. In this video we get everything laid out and start working on building the frame. we get the front A-arms built and tacked into place and also decide where the seats are going to go.
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Don't build it to big to get it out of your shed!
The long wheelbase will help with doing trophy truck things (high speed desert racing), but may be less ideal on narrow trails through the woods. Good to remind yourself of what the build will actually be used for as you're building it. That being said, trophy trucks are my favorite off-road vehicles and I'm super excited for this build!
or you find the happy the medium of where it is good for both
You work so fast, every video has a ton of content to show! Awesome!
I appreciate that!
He's definitely a work-a-holic. lol
@@ratherBweldingChris You have spammers in the comment section 👍
Hello my friend, I’m looking at the scale of this thing and I would like to say that you may want to consider front and rear differentials and a drive shaft to link them together rather than using chains.
There are metal fabricators and there are metal fabricators, and then there is you! The purest form of the art. No plans no diagrams it’s all in your head. Absolutely fantastic work. First rate!
Just to note, the tie rods don't have to be in a straight line between the ball joints. A more rearward location will give more Ackerman and may limit the lock. The important parameters are (a) the length of the tie rod ( this should be in proportion to the A-arm lengths and you may have to alter the length of the rack to get this right ) and (b) the height of the rack which you may have to adjust to achieve zero bump steer. The height of the rack mounting is the most critical.
this guy doesnt even know what ackerman theory is or any basic fab knowledge. He doesnt even aline the CL on the tubes lol
For real. My full size, 609 rear steer buggy on 42s chassis is 50” wide. It’s gonna be too big, and underpowered.
@@freeridemoto7133Why are you watching his videos if you don’t like him?
@@drwhat4574 entertainment. He is a pretty skilled fabricator but he's so against actually learning the most basic of things to help with his builds. His suspension/steering geometry is already fucked up and it's barely started. "in my opinion it's better" like no one already knows these things.
@@freeridemoto7133 man that rack is soooo inadequate for this. If he tries to do offset tie rods it's going to destroy that shit on the bump out of the shed. I wish I hit the lucky lottery and got into you tube when he did and was doing this for a living. It's like almost infuriating he actually has skills/time/money to do these builds and doesn't want to learn the basics that any builder of a reasonable performance vehicle knows. I mean looking at pictures for ideas is one thing but basing your suspension geometry on it!? Okey dokey.
Most vehicles are flat, because they want the caster and toe to stay static when the wheel moves up and down. Changing toe when the wheel on either sides goes up and down will cause bump steer which is sometimes desired, but that is done by the mount location distance from the center of the vehicle and not the geometry of the frame. Caster is another handling property that allows you to create a slight pull to one side or the other, but again, it is desired for that to be static. Caster is interesting, because it generally does not alter tire wear to get steering input effort changed. Your setup creates a positive caster when you hit rocks which will increase steering effort and pull to one side or the other.
You need to keep reading. You are pretty far off on most of that. Read geometry books. It's all arcs and pivots. The level or non level starting point of a dual a arm suspension has zero to do with toe or caster. The relationship between the upper and lower arm angles in every axis is what is going to determine how the knuckles behave. The difference in length between the upper and lower is also a major factor. His suspension "designs" have all parallel arms. And pivots on the frame. There is sooooooo much more that can be achieved by moving things around with a correct design. Anti dive under braking, anti roll/roll center isn't even remotely considered or even close to understood. He could be building things 10 times cooler and better performing if he actually educated himself a little bit.
@@jasonbirch1182 Read? I have read and own 3 track cars for many years. 2 of them had bump steer on the rear and I changed the bump steer on 1 of them to be equal to a 93+ model car after the factory changed the setup. To change the bump steer (which is toe in when the car squats over bumps or in a corner lean), you change the tie rad mount location to the crossmember either in or out. Move it inward for less bump steer and outward for more bump steer. This is a fact and causes understeer and whip out when too aggressively out from centerline of the car. For the front, I have changed to fully adjustable coil overs. I change the top mount angle depending on speed, surface slope, and style of the track and how much steering effort is ideal.
These are all Toyotas. 2 are MR2 from 1991 when I started modifying these cars. 1 is from 2016 and is a FR-S. Before that, I built Trans AMs, FIAT Spyders, and Alfa Romeos in the 80's. Caster was done with shims on all of them. FIAT had a pan hard rod for rear, Trans AM is a solid rear axel, Alfa is a multi-link.
If you want to know the math, you simply draw a triangle in the x/z plane and the y/z plane of the length of the A-arms and the angle of the base frame and upper and lower travel limits. One for toe deflection and the other for caster deflection. It will be simple to measure the deflection distance either with a simple tape measure for something already mocked up at the limit of travel or if you want to calculate it you can use some of the trig functions of sin, cos, invsin, invcos and the lengths of the arms vs travel range. @ an angle of 8 degrees, I bet this deflection will be more than a caster shim normally used or adjusting the top mount of a coil over.
Jason's correct. 4wd and off road is way different than track. Bent up like that gives it anti dive and you want pro dive in a off road 4wd. There's a bunch of reasons rbw would want that flat instead of angled. For instance look at a 2wd Traxxas slash compared to a 4wd slash. That's the quickest reference I could think of. From experience if there's no pro dive designed into a 4wd off road truck then the suspension won't work under acceleration. It will be hard bc the anti squat will be working against it
@@ryannickfabrication I understand your position and agree somewhat, but that is not the point. The reason most frames are flat is to be able to adjust the suspension through shims, control arms, and tie rods easily for racing on a track or in this case a terrain. The calculations are simpler. We are discussing a trophy truck, not a crawler. A trophy truck is a racing class truck on a track. It is not hitting rocks like a truck that I would take to some 4 wheel drive event. I do own a truck as well.
@@sammcbride2464 well moving the mount inward isn't actually what is changing the toe gain(rear bump steer). It's lengthening the tie rod to correct the arc. Changing the mount height will dramatically affect it as well. As far as castor it still has zero to do with the angle of the control arms. We'll use 8° inclination . If upper and lower a arms are at 8° to chassis, moving up and down through travel doesn't change the castor. If it's 3° at bottom it's 3° at top. The knuckle is along for the ride at that castor angle. It just moves rearward as suspension compresses. It will cause toe change if it's not setup correctly though. You are talking about moving a top hat in a MacPherson strut suspension. That changes castor and camber depending on which way you move it and is completely different than a dual arm setup.
Doing great so far! My only concern is the long chain from front to back. When chains get that long they flop around and stretch horribly especially when you start throwing Hayabusa power and off road dirt at them. You might want to consider making a full length chain guard/guide with the bottom lined in tough nylon so the chain doesn't drag on metal and make lots of noise. And of course an adjustable tensioner or two inside. Looking forward to the rest of the build.
I 100% agree with your 10 degree front suspension mounts.. Motorcycles are raked for that exact reason.
Except that motorcycles are a completely different design.
I think the bigger question is if that engine has enough power to do what you are going to ask of it. You're at the point that you need to start considering small auto 4-cylinder engines for your builds.
32" tires and 4wd will suck a lot of power regardless of vehicle weight. He should look into pro lite trophy trucks and buggie racing specs/geo
Gotta love Sundays 🔥🔥🤙 keep it on Chris!
Have you considered a bell crank steering system? Put the rack between the arms ahead of the pivot points and you can adjust for Ackerman, toe and bump steer as-needed with simple turnbuckles. Basically like an RC car steering system with the rack in the place of the drag link.
That is plan-B if the rack and pinion doesn’t work out
Just a thought at the beginning of watching this video. Have you ever thought about inboard brakes? It would help with unsprung weight on something made to bounce around at high speed.
I did think about that, but it wouldn’t work on the front for this project because the CV’s aren’t engaged with the tires in 2wd. But I am doing inboard brakes on the rear
The upside of learning how to use Fusion 360 is in the future you can figure out the whole build virtually in 360 first and sort everything out there. then physically build the virtual model, in fusion 360 you can animate your virtual model too and check that all your moving parts jive properly. Your geometry, travel, clearances, sheer points, point loads, CG. sprung weight, un-sprung weight, weight balance bias, bump steer, scrub radius, toe, camber, caster, acreman and check for binding anywhere. Eliminates a lot of second guess work. I'm sure you've already considered that but just in case you haven't, just thought I would share that with you. Happy building to you.
One thing to consider is how big and how many trophies you're planning to haul. If you plan on rock crawling, I'd use something light and strong. Also add reinforcements to the chassis. Of course depending on engine size.
He does say, "Mini trophy"
So he won't need that big of a truck to haul a few.
@@brianellison3525 Right. Just didn't want him to repeat the same mistakes base on the video of the other one he did. Price of steel is high.
Less size usually means less weight leading to better power/weight ratio 👀
I'd say make it as compact as you can while getting it road legal, best of both worlds... this project is already awesome so far keep it up! 👍👍
He's not going to make it street legal lol.
It can never be road legal
This is a cool project.
For your slightly bent jack shafts, check out Keith Fenners videos on how to straighten shafts using heat. It's easier than you would think.
Trophy trucks are built from existing automotive suspension components like the front knuckles from an f150. That is probably why the A arms are mounted flat. You are making a truly custom everything trophy truck so you are able to make the suspension move however you want.
TT definitely not racing on f150 spindles/knuckles
Nice thing about this type of project is the adaptability of the design.
Regarding the angle of the LCA mounts: class 10 buggies run about 7-10 degrees with parallel a-arms, but some trucks (especially oems) run a flat LCA with heavily angled UCA, creating caster gain. This allows the wheel to move rearward with compression for that same smoothness, but with less dive under braking and more usable travel. The more you angle the control arms back, the less vertical travel you have and the more dive you will have under braking. That said, I would set it up the exact same way you did! I can't wait to see where this goes 🤟
Trophy trucks and most other off road rigs use “flat” a arms because a heavier rig will experience a lot of dive under braking with the a arms leaning back. On 4WD ridge the front end will be more likely to raise when on the gas. Every thing is a compromise. On a lighter rig with less power these ride height issues are less of a problem.
Have you considered starting with a Ranger or S10 chassis? You can usually find them pretty cheap. Then you'd at least have a cab and frame rails to start with.
I don't mean to be a know it all, but I have used a notcher a lot and have a suggestion, ignore if you want! Don't "bury" the hole saw quite so deep into the end of the tube, leave it out a bit more and leave a bit of tube not cut, then you don't get that razorblade thin edge. Makes life a bit easier. Also, I have the same bender, and I am the cheapest guy in the world. But, the air over hydraulic cylinder upgrade is WORTH IT! You don't have to fight the machine flopping around and holding it back with your foot, etc. Harbor freight has a cheap one that has been pretty good. I made a degree wheel too that dummy-proofs the bends.
The attention to detail keeps me watching these. AWESOME JOB. The axel bit: You know how many people, including myself, wouldn't have thought more then looking down the side and then going to work. I would LOVE to own something you made, that is for sure!
It's clearly in the "mini" range. It fits in your shop. An actual TTP ... let's just say that it needs space saver spare tires if you want to fit one on a trailer, which always looks utterly hilarious. :))
A trophy truck is very impressive. Great idea and great video!
Nice to see you figured out the "lead in" on the arc droid
I think they keep the front arms coplanar to the chassis for maximum travel. With the front kickup you lose a marginal amount of overall up travel. In the bigger trucks, they need every little bit they can get with the weight they're carrying. This is going to be so light in comparison, the travel loss will be fine.
Hardest working UA-camr I'm always so impressed
For the upward angle on the front think about where the tires will be when the suspension is fully compressed. If the frame is hitting the ground that’s bad. It’s one of the reasons actual trophy trucks front suspension is flat with the rest of the truck. Then you factor in that most of them also have the engine in the front so the space for an engine is reduced as well since the front suspension is center mounted the engine is push backwards, removing interior space in the process.
Keep it light and simple. Like a jeep. That's the best recipe. Oh yeah and lots of horsepower. Good luck.
Such blissful time in the shop just thinking and staring and planning! The mini TT project is looking great Chris. I doubt you read all the comments but man oh man are they entertaining. The smiles are bigger when you keep doing it your way.
This man could be building cars in the future 🫡😉👌🏻
Hell yeah, finaly a twoseater! Cant wait to see how it looks like when its finished!
We leave our front control arms flat, or around a couple degrees max from flat because our trucks have alot of rear squat, especially at high speeds over rough terrain. The rear squat gives enough degree angle to the front without messing up caster/camber and effecting bumpsteer.
Some TT's have raked front ends. It promotes more dive under braking so adding in a little anti-dive doesn't hurt. The sprocket carrier doesn't need to be inline with the hubs. The rack does not need to be inline with the steering arms. Moving things around a little can solve a lot of issues.
Looking forward to the next videos 😁 I really hope that someone sends you a weldingtable, you would be the perfect advert for that kind of tool 😉
You definitely deserve way more subscribers! You’ve definitely in the top three of mini moto UA-camrs
have to remember about caster. might be hard to steer with the front of the frame bent up like that. cant wait to see more of this build
you never cease to amaze me with the bad ass shit you make man. i'd love to ride one.
So when you were talking about bending the front a arms, I did some research and found that the term you're after is "Kickup". It kind of falls into the same philosophy as anti-dive and anti-squat geometry, but it's a tad different as kickup only has to do with the front of the hingepin being higher than the rear.
From what I can tell, you're exactly right about the advantages of running some Kickup on your design. I'm fairly certain all trophy trucks use kickup, but it may be more conservative at something like 4-7 degrees. This may be why it seems like the a arms are parallel to the chassis, but that's not the case.
The thing is, it doesn't take much kickup to encourage the front suspension to travel away from the obstacles so you get diminishing returns the more aggressive you are with it. And the more kickup you use, the more the car will tend to sink into the front tires on braking. Kickup also has a consequential relationship with caster, whereas more kickup gives more caster through the suspension travel.
You'd likely have to look into it a bit yourself to understand it better than how I'm explaining here but in essence I believe kickup is a universally positive thing for offroad rigs, though the benefits slow down after just a few degrees and some down-sides start to creep in instead.
I think a more conservative figure like 6-8 degrees of kickup will suit your mini truck much better than 10 since that's a tad extreme, but this is only my opinion. Best of luck!
suggestion: make a chain guard for the one seat, especially if you're making the seat recline.
Dual I beam front suspension is also really popular on prerunners and trophy trucks 👍
You should try using a Moto Guzzi or BMW engine, shaft drive would make making a 4WD vehicle SOOO much easier. The driveshaft could just go into a little Dana 20 or Japanese transfercase like out of a Samurai or 80's Nissan truck and then to regular Ranger or Nissan or Toyota or Jeep axles.. easy to find, cheap, and you can easily get replacement parts, plus you wouldn't have chains hanging everywhere waiting to catch a piece of gravel and wipe out the sprocket/snap the chain or hit a rock and wipe out the sprocket/snap the chain, or have the wrong tension during travel and wipe out the sprocket/snap the chain or.... IFS especially is incredibly difficult in any 4WD setup, let alone chain drive.
Also.. what's the difference between a Trophy Truck and a buggy? Answer: The body/overall cage shape and possibly the suspension design. I think most Trophy Trucks use cantilever suspension where most buggies still just mount the shocks to the axles normally, though the suspension could be 4 link, triangulated 4 link, 3 link, Watt's link, leaf spring, coil spring.. they pretty much make buggies any way they want with whatever they can afford. (I watched Xtreme 4x4 and TRUCKS for a LONG time)
BTW, how the hell do you not have a Rogue Fabrication tubing bender? Why does Cars and Cameras have one and you don't? Also get yourself a deburring tool, they are less than $20 and well worth the money.
The reason Trophy Trucks have flat suspension is other than when people like Robby Gordon take them out and run Baja or Pike's Peak, they mostly don't ever see rocks. They aren't designed to be rock bouncers, they are designed to operate in a controlled environment in a stadium or offroad course that's full of fill dirt. They are designed to be driven fast and jumped not bounced over rocks. Even rock bouncers mostly keep the suspension vertical though, that could possibly have to do with not wanting to change the pinion angle or stuff the driveshaft into the transmission if it bottoms out, that and on Trophy/Stadium Trucks you have fenders that you want to keep the tires out of. I think they'd also prefer the shocks take the hit when they land instead of compressing the suspension and slamming the frame/bumper/body work into the ground.. remember Trophy/Stadium Trucks jump like Supercross ALL THE TIME. If you look at offroad race trucks they almost all use bent A arms too, it corrects the geometry and keeps the camber change during travel and subsequent bump steer to a minimum. What I mean by bent is they come down at an angle and then level out so the bottom of the A arm is perpendicular with the spindle and parallel to the ground. At the same time the lower A arm tends to be longer which combined keeps the movement more in the vertical plane instead of sucking the tire inward/pushing it outward as it travels up and down keeping more contact patch in contact with the ground.
I can think of a reason trophy trucks have the A arms angled flat as this will define where the dive center is of the chassis. For slower speed this is much less of a concern. But it will decide how it behaves when you brake or give throttle. You are correct it is more forgiving on the suspension to have the A arms angled. All production cars have the lower arms flat and upper arms angled. Dont forget you can use caster angle aswell to help make suspension more forgiving in bump. This is seperate of A arm angle.
I love that you give us insight into how your brain works through different design challenges, not just a 'here is what I did' but the why as well. And for doors, something similar to a CanAm X3 might be an option to keep the weight down but add protection and use Bear jaw latches with reverse opening like the X3s.
Honestly is skilled as you are I would like to see you gravitate away from chain and sprocket and go for transmission and car engine and see what you can come up with big horsepower light I think you could come up with something really awesome chain and sprocket leaves for too much air for breaking and not being able to go with big horsepower
Not sure how well this fits into the trophy truck category. More Truggy than trophy truck, but also doesn't use a solid rear axle so it's more like a class 10 with the 4cyl. Would be rad to see this thing with big fiberglass fenders with sponsor stickers and livery though!
Trophy trucks use a lot of straight tubing and minimal bends in their chassis because when you bend the tubing you’re basically “pre-fatiguing” the tube, it will want to keep bending in that area under stress.
Thanks for filming Chris. 👍😁
I don't get much out of these buggy builds. But I still watch and like. I miss your old basic builds. 😔
take your time on this one it could WILL be awesome
It's practically a 2/3 scale trophy truck. Instead of fabricating doors from scratch, maybe you could use part of a car bodyshell just for the cab? Then add a custom front end and bed.
I recommend mounting your seats up a little bit so your legs bend, like when driving a truck. Then you can make the whole frame a bit shorter
We think your the best of building your stuff on UA-cam. Your good dude keep it going.
you should do a solid axle and tire carrier in the rear and put the engine in the front. Like the full size trucks.
I think big project takes a lot of time but i am so excited to follow this big project until the finish
They use vertical suspension angle to not to have trail (like motorcycles), so the steering is as neutral as possible. If you add trail to the steering, it will tend to self-center. This can make the steering wheel to turn violently from side to side on bumps. Which is not something you want on a high speed off road machine.
You can fix lot of this by angling the wheel steering axis to the oposite side, but seeing most cars don't do it, maybe is not worth the complication.
Cant wait for this series .... I love trophy trucks
For your Jack shaft and rear axel might I suggest using Super Tuff steel It will spring back and is superior to cold rolled!
Some where in the middle don’t make it smaller than a jeep and x3 but big enough for some comfort
Love your videos ❤ you are so amazing at what you do keep up the great work this man has unbelievable talent 🔥🙏🏻👌🏻
Careful there,we wouldn't like some aliens come and steal him for building their own spaceships.
Just add 2 more bearings in the jack shaft to help keep it straight. Also cad will be your friend
I think you should talk to Robby Gordon’s people about you frame and suspension setup. From what I hear he is really cool to UA-camr makers. Not to mention the guy is a legend in off-road racing. Who knows, he might help you out. Anyway, I’m loving this build already.
I'd think that jeep style doors would be the easiest to make and to use on the trail.... Plus you can just lift them off and drive it w/o doors as well.
Bro... just found your channel and don't presume to tell you haw to build things but when my face is so deep into a project some times an outside opinion really helps me out. Again I have browsed through some of your videos and wow... you are right up there with GHPC. keep up the great work love what you do
Good to see you doing what you love to do… happy for you buddy🎉
This is awesome, pure fabrication. I love this kind of videos.
This fabrication stuff may be everyday work to you, but it’s absolutely magical to me. I would love to learn how to do what you are doing. It amazes me to no end.
You should elevate the seats so your not having to have such a long wheel base. Consider a K series motor and trans.
The trophy trucks mount the a arms in a way that eliminates bump steer.
I paused at 25:35, a curved tailing arm would allow you to places the pivot under the driver.
Making for more up/down travel, and allow the truck to stay oriented in a level to slightly up angle when jumping. So you can Capitolist on the full travel of the rear suspension, reducing nose blow as the rear rebounds. Trophies spend more time with their ass loose, are more likely to roll as terrains slope side to side at higher speeds. Because the back is in the air way to much.
Wow this is amazing infact you are my role model I love it
Look at stadium trucks. Smaller versions of trophy trucks. Might help with some inspiration
If the A is angled, they loose vertical travel in relation to the plane of the chassis; but only slightly. In your design, it will make the fround feel lighter and may bounce a bit more. Plus, compression the suspension more. A bit more gas in the shocks would dress that, if yours seems that way. Tuning socks for the vehicle, driver style & feel and terrain is an important thing. If I was running the desert in Yucca AR, where I run my rail, I would put some angle in it. But not 18dec. Seemed a bit much.
Did you just eyeball, the placement of the A arms, then welf? Didn't see you measure.
cant wait for this project to finish a trophy truck yessssss
Maybe for the doors go with something like how a polaris rzr or something a long them lines. Cant wait to see how this builds going to look when its done. Love all the other builds but this ones topped the cake.
Make it comfortable with space and good suspension that's what I would do as I know you build it in your head the same as I do over and over until you are happy with the finished product then you start the build I know it's going to be good as your fabrication work is top notch.
looking forward to watching this build! I use Fusion 360 and love it, you can do so much with it, it is awesome!
This looks like it’s going to be an incredible build, and a beast to boot with that Hayabusa motor! Can’t wait. Keep up the great work.👍🏼🤩❤️
I definitely think you should try to make doors for that, it wouldn't only protect you better but it'll also be cool to see how you would make a door with all the Door mechanisms and stuff. It would be cool to put windows in it powered or hand crancked but that's just a extra thing so it'll just be cool
Having the frame bent upwards, changing the angle of the control arms motion from parallel to the frame gonna cause major toe out or in when loading up the suspension making it drive darty on high speed bumps like down unpaved trails it will want to weave pretty good just gonna have to hang to that steering wheel pretty tight lol 😆 but love it man I think the suspension should be looked into deeper tho maybe try reading up on the angles and how the geometry works because the recipe you got cooking gonna be crazy 👍
If your serious about going fast and jumping pay attention to the weight. Keep it light and the center of gravity matters. Remember light weight and center mass! Like your channel
Technically, you can apply a balance weight in the center of the distance of the part.
Even a few grams would go a long way toward balancing it.
Other than that, just put another bearing right in the middle to keep it from freely flopping around.
The bangle of the control arms may not matter TOO much. But it’s mainly caster issue’s is what you’ll run into. Being at 10 degrees at the frame will more than likely give you 20 degrees of caster…. Which will likely cause it to ride TERRIBLY….. but like you said, it’s what you think is right. Only thing I could think of to correct the caster issue is mount the upper control arms to your knuckles, measure steering angle to determine caster… then mount upper control arms farther forward from the lower control arms positions.
Use all of the "Throw" in your rack. Then build the Tie rod arms on the spindles as long as you can. That should get you more accurate placement for the rack. Level with the tie rods is what I would shoot for. You can build some camber into your spindles or a -arms to keep the frame flat on future builds. Or just design them to have some adjustment. You might want to consider raising the seat placement to give you better options on legroom. Do a search on "roll bar swing outs" just to see an option on doors.
اتابعك من العراق وانا ملهم بأعمالك وطريقة عملك 🇮🇶♥️
Greetings from Croatia !!!!
Make it MINI!
TROPHY TRUCK TIME WE HAVE ALL BEEN WAITING FOR 🤘🏽🤘🏽
I dont know if u see this but really love ur channel i discovered u long time ago when u did make that trike bike the cbr 600 and since i have been obsessed with ur content u did me inspire to make My own project and that and I got a hard depression and it helped me a lot thrue that i had somthing to do and not sitting and wanted to end all reslly big thanks and really love to see ur videos u has helped me alot ❤️🤙 thanks
Definitely a Gravybones kinda kart 😉☮️
you might try straitening the shafting but you can see from the easy deflection that a jackshaft this long will need more bearing support
I think it would be cool to see a UTV build for a future project. Something like a John Deere gator or a Kawasaki Mule
Awesome idea! If you want a bit more comfort (easier on spine) move the seats up vertically 8-10".
YES!!! Another project to watch💪🏼 love this guys work!
I think you were seeing more deflection from your floor than the shaft. You can see it when you are walking around it
For the jackshaft you need ground and polished steel
Being turned up gives you automatic caster, which will help your steering!!!!
I want to make a front engine, rwd, superlight pre runner some day using motorcycle tires and rear suspension from dirtbikes. Lots of details to work out though. Luck with yours!