Anthony, just watched this through as a friend has asked me to build a cover for their hall radiator. I'm only a hobbyist and this was a great video that gave me all the info and tips I need 🙂 Thank you for sharing your work - great looking finished product by the way!
Enjoyed this build. It turned out perfectly symmetrical and is going to look great when you paint them. Love the new saw, too. Be careful on the street.
You’ve come a long way in a short time Anthony, when I started watching you , all you had was a job-site tablesaw then I think you had a Delta cabinet saw and now this contraption (Lol) . Way to go, I wish you all the success in the world because you seem like a decent guy ! Ps I’ll stick with my Delta Unisaw , pre 2010 model, 3hp left tilt it’s a beast !
@@jjhi2760 the dominos give me perfect alignment with completely flush and crisp corners. No extra work to sand out or flush route. Pocket screws have a tendency to slip and try to walk away when they hit a certain pattern of wood grain. You can use pocket holes for the sides but since I am lucky enough to have the domino, I take advantage of it.
You're clearly a very accomplished carpenter. I just bought a house and am going to be making rad covers (wife wants to buy them). One thing I didn't notice was any allowance for baseboards. Are you cutting out the baseboard for your client or are you notching out your cover?
Nice project, they're going to look great! At 2:00 I just find it so hard to believe that you're going to get a reliably square cut referencing the small end of the board agains the fence. The margin for error seems high and the setup seems slow. Doing your rip first (or running it on the jointer) seems like it would make a lot more sense, if I'm understanding what you're saying correctly.
Jeremy Specce that fence is right up to the blade, and the board was 6”wide, so 6” of reference surface. Watch carefully when I put my square up to it after the rip cut and you’ll see how perfect it is. This saves me time by not having to wheel out my 500 pound jointer and having to pull the family truck out of the garage every time I need a straight edge.
It depends on what finish you are going for. If you are painting it, poplar is a good choice. If you are making it stain grade, then go with a hardwood like oak, Sapele or walnut depending on your taste in grain pattern and color.
Hi Anthony! Love your channel, I’ve been a quiet follower for quite some time. If you were to stain and seal these but still use poplar, what would you use for the clear coat finish to ensure maximum durability with the heat exposure? Would poplar still be a good choice in that application?
@@AnthonyScolaro1 I use all purpose joint compound 99% of the time as well. Sands beautifully. I will try timbermate for the times when I need something more durable. Thanks for the content.
Great work - - what was your time budget for this one? I also need to make 4 different sizes for a customer and, as a new carpenter, I am having trouble creating an estimate. Thanks.
I don’t charge by the time of the job, otherwise I’d either lose out every time or have to charge so much that my clients wouldn’t be able to afford any of my work. There isn’t much room for profit on these. Instead, on jobs like these, unfortunately you have to see what the industry is charging and stay somewhat close to that price point or they can just get it somewhere else.
@@AnthonyScolaro1 plus to doesn't cup twist warp like stupid pine or knotty pines, made gothic medieval mirror frame a 6' by 4' beast with poplar and was so pleased with the woods stability.
Anthony, just watched this through as a friend has asked me to build a cover for their hall radiator. I'm only a hobbyist and this was a great video that gave me all the info and tips I need 🙂 Thank you for sharing your work - great looking finished product by the way!
Enjoyed this build. It turned out perfectly symmetrical and is going to look great when you paint them. Love the new saw, too. Be careful on the street.
Nice build, pretty sweet table saw setup!
Lovely design Anthony. Thanks for the great ideas.
Nice. You do such thoughtful and meticulous work.
The Legend will continue; Scolaro and Son!!! :) Great work, Anthony!!
Really thorough, thank you 👍
Another awesome build!
You’ve come a long way in a short time Anthony, when I started watching you , all you had was a job-site tablesaw then I think you had a Delta cabinet saw and now this contraption (Lol) . Way to go, I wish you all the success in the world because you seem like a decent guy ! Ps I’ll stick with my Delta Unisaw , pre 2010 model, 3hp left tilt it’s a beast !
Such a great job!
Thanks for this - great
How do you figure out the slat spacing? what is the calculation?
Great vid. Thanks for uploading. May I ask why you chose to use pocket holes instead of dowels?
10 times faster and no need for dowels. The glue and pocket screws is plenty of strength for this particular build.
Dumb question but Ive never done this before. Must I use MDF or will any wood(plywood, pine, oak etc) be ok?
I used poplar wood. MDF is fine too just make sure you use a good sealer and finish to protect from heat and moisture.
How much room did you provide at the bottom?
Great job, Anthony! I haven't tried the iron-on edging yet.
man that's a beautiful simple project love it, what kind of wood?
'
That’s popular, it’s very stable and paints up beautifully
Just wondering why you used your Domino on the sides instead of using pocket holes? since you used pocket holes on the unit.
@@jjhi2760 the dominos give me perfect alignment with completely flush and crisp corners. No extra work to sand out or flush route. Pocket screws have a tendency to slip and try to walk away when they hit a certain pattern of wood grain. You can use pocket holes for the sides but since I am lucky enough to have the domino, I take advantage of it.
You're clearly a very accomplished carpenter. I just bought a house and am going to be making rad covers (wife wants to buy them). One thing I didn't notice was any allowance for baseboards. Are you cutting out the baseboard for your client or are you notching out your cover?
Nice project, they're going to look great! At 2:00 I just find it so hard to believe that you're going to get a reliably square cut referencing the small end of the board agains the fence. The margin for error seems high and the setup seems slow. Doing your rip first (or running it on the jointer) seems like it would make a lot more sense, if I'm understanding what you're saying correctly.
Jeremy Specce that fence is right up to the blade, and the board was 6”wide, so 6” of reference surface. Watch carefully when I put my square up to it after the rip cut and you’ll see how perfect it is. This saves me time by not having to wheel out my 500 pound jointer and having to pull the family truck out of the garage every time I need a straight edge.
What is the best wood to use for a project like this
It depends on what finish you are going for. If you are painting it, poplar is a good choice. If you are making it stain grade, then go with a hardwood like oak, Sapele or walnut depending on your taste in grain pattern and color.
Thanks for the illustration, what kind of wood did you use?
Poplar
Hi Anthony! Love your channel, I’ve been a quiet follower for quite some time.
If you were to stain and seal these but still use poplar, what would you use for the clear coat finish to ensure maximum durability with the heat exposure? Would poplar still be a good choice in that application?
As long as it’s sealed properly, it would be fine. I’d use an industrial strength poly in that case
Gotcha. Thank you!
What kind of wood did you use?
Poplar
Thanks for the inspiration. Question. What did you use to fill the trim screws?
Stephen Guzikowski since these will be painted, I used joint compound. Sometimes I use timber mate as well.
@@AnthonyScolaro1 I use all purpose joint compound 99% of the time as well. Sands beautifully. I will try timbermate for the times when I need something more durable. Thanks for the content.
Really good build can i ask where did you get the base for that assembly table looks really good and do the legs fold back down when not in use
Martin O I have a link to that table in the description, yes it folds up and has wheels.
Cheers for that sorry i didnt realise
Great work - - what was your time budget for this one? I also need to make 4 different sizes for a customer and, as a new carpenter, I am having trouble creating an estimate. Thanks.
I don’t charge by the time of the job, otherwise I’d either lose out every time or have to charge so much that my clients wouldn’t be able to afford any of my work. There isn’t much room for profit on these. Instead, on jobs like these, unfortunately you have to see what the industry is charging and stay somewhat close to that price point or they can just get it somewhere else.
Awesome job! What kind of wood did you use?
Jake Wolpert thanks! I used poplar, very good paintable wood
@@AnthonyScolaro1 great! thank you!
@@AnthonyScolaro1 plus to doesn't cup twist warp like stupid pine or knotty pines, made gothic medieval mirror frame a 6' by 4' beast with poplar and was so pleased with the woods stability.