Another great video! I have been wondering about manyof the points you covered in this video! Thanks for sharing and explaining why you do things in the order you did! VERY Helpful to learn!
Thanks Rob! Yep, the glass dust will get yah... I just read a bit about lens grinders (when it was still done by hand) back in the day and how some died from lung disease from the glass dust.
trying this out on a couple brown beer bottle bottoms. still figuring out how to make my snapping tools but have found some pretty awesome success with a leathermen
That thing turned out nice. The Indian museum here in Sacramento has a few of Ishi's points on display. Some were made of brown glass and others were made of clear. The clear ones were about 2 1/4 inches long by 3/4 in wide and had a very long narrow tip. He made those like the Wintun Indians did here in Ca. He would use a side of the glass bottle as a knife and the neck of the bottle as a handle. I will have to do a quick vid of it when no one is looking. Very interesting.
Nifty. If you can claim, arrow heads and so on, made from volcanic glass you should reasonably be able to claim the same for beer bottle glass --- as far as technique is involved. Indeed I've heard that now and then there have been found batches of volcanic glass that apparently had been passed through a trading network of some sort many hundreds or thousands of years back.
There's a certain groups of martial arts schools that send you in a forest after teaching this art and you have to survive, make weapons, shoes & everything else.
I think the clear glass ones were made from pain glass as these mostly had very fine flaking on the sides and the top was mostly smooth from the manufacturer. These were attached to arrow shafts.
When dressing the edge, you can avoid crushing by using a very sharp pressure flaker. Or you can just push straight down, perpendicular to the edge, and try to take off only tiny flakes.
The only thing I can tell you is that if you are getting steps on the face, then you're biting off more than you can chew, so to speak. Try making the platforms stronger and the flakes shorter. Once you are getting flakes that don't end in steps, then you can try more force and a more aggressive angle to get longer flakes.
Good video.. It's nice that you volunteer such good information.. I guess maybe I missed the boat though.. You made mention of a side view so we could see your angle of percussion when using indirect.. Well I wasn't able to see the side view recording and that is a real important missing puzzle piece in my technique. Do you have any side view videos..? Thanks in advance and thank you for taking time out of your day to help us.. It is much appreciated..!!
The baton is a rod of UHMW plastic. I thought it was 1-1/4" diameter but it's probably more like 2 inches in diameter. I can't remember... I bought it a long while ago. I'll measure it. It's the same stuff that the flaker is made from. It's NOT delrin.
I have been following your channel for a couple weeks now. I wasn't having good success with pressure flaking, my flakes were short and I started using your method and it was super hard at first, but I have gotten more used to it. Now I hardly get steps, I guess because I am overly cautious lol. I have one problem tho. When I go to dress the edge, I have the edges so thin that they crush, even after I abrade them. Any advice? PS I am knapping glass.
beautiful point. great video. there just arent enough good glass knapping videos. thanks for fixing that, and please do continue.
woops ! I looked at your "indirect" video and found my answers. I am making my tools now and after that I'll try to begin my first try at napping !
Another great video! I have been wondering about manyof the points you covered in this video! Thanks for sharing and explaining why you do things in the order you did! VERY Helpful to learn!
You're very welcome
Man that blue stuff makes for a beautiful point!!!
lots of good info here on working glass! beautiful point style! i'll bet a highly, deep serrated point of colored glass would be a knockout!
Thanks Rob! Yep, the glass dust will get yah... I just read a bit about lens grinders (when it was still done by hand) back in the day and how some died from lung disease from the glass dust.
trying this out on a couple brown beer bottle bottoms. still figuring out how to make my snapping tools but have found some pretty awesome success with a leathermen
That thing turned out nice. The Indian museum here in Sacramento has a few of Ishi's points on display. Some were made of brown glass and others were made of clear. The clear ones were about 2 1/4 inches long by 3/4 in wide and had a very long narrow tip. He made those like the Wintun Indians did here in Ca. He would use a side of the glass bottle as a knife and the neck of the bottle as a handle. I will have to do a quick vid of it when no one is looking. Very interesting.
Very nice work on that!
Thanks!
Nifty. If you can claim, arrow heads and so on, made from volcanic glass you should reasonably be able to claim the same for beer bottle glass --- as far as technique is involved. Indeed I've heard that now and then there have been found batches of volcanic glass that apparently had been passed through a trading network of some sort many hundreds or thousands of years back.
Nice job! I never thought about the glass dust, something to keep in mind! Oh, really like that blue color glass!
Ga. Rob & Terrie
There's a certain groups of martial arts schools that send you in a forest after teaching this art and you have to survive, make weapons, shoes & everything else.
Sounds cool.
I think the clear glass ones were made from pain glass as these mostly had very fine flaking on the sides and the top was mostly smooth from the manufacturer. These were attached to arrow shafts.
Thanks Rick!
Gorgeous
Thank you
When dressing the edge, you can avoid crushing by using a very sharp pressure flaker. Or you can just push straight down, perpendicular to the edge, and try to take off only tiny flakes.
Well done and thanks for the glass vid !
I agree. A glass serrated point would look especially deadly!
Beautiful! !!!
Nice glass ''arrowhead"
The only thing I can tell you is that if you are getting steps on the face, then you're biting off more than you can chew, so to speak. Try making the platforms stronger and the flakes shorter. Once you are getting flakes that don't end in steps, then you can try more force and a more aggressive angle to get longer flakes.
Yes, Lowe's carries everything except the 1/4" copper rod that I use on the larger flaker. I get that copper rod from Ebay.
Very beautiful :)
Thank you.
JackCrafty you're welcome 😊
Do you do the same work on gemstones? I'd love to have a stone arrowhead made from green and purple Fluorite.
Thanks Jon!
Good video.. It's nice that you volunteer such good information..
I guess maybe I missed the boat though.. You made mention of a side view so we could see your angle of percussion when using indirect.. Well I wasn't able to see the side view recording and that is a real important missing puzzle piece in my technique. Do you have any side view videos..? Thanks in advance and thank you for taking time out of your day to help us.. It is much appreciated..!!
Yea, I have videos where you can see the angle. Do a search for "Jack Crafty front view".
This one seems to be popular: ua-cam.com/video/93i8yqTrD88/v-deo.html
Thanks! Don't worry, there's more coming.
The baton is a rod of UHMW plastic. I thought it was 1-1/4" diameter but it's probably more like 2 inches in diameter. I can't remember... I bought it a long while ago. I'll measure it. It's the same stuff that the flaker is made from. It's NOT delrin.
Thank you!
Great video. One question tho what are you using as a baton ?
Hey Sir, was you able to try to make the rock surikan (throwing star) ?
Muito legal,estou aprendendo a técnica!
Thats a good looking tip.
When you say you're making the base more concave, don't you mean less convex?
When I make the base more concave, I mean that I'm creating an inward curve. I'm not sure what I did in this video. I might not have done that.
Completely rounded... no notch.
I've seen other knappers use a notch but it messes me up and leads to step fractures.
/=your points always impress me. Do you ever do southeastern woodland points like Cherokee?
You're welcome!
pretty neat!!!
I have been following your channel for a couple weeks now. I wasn't having good success with pressure flaking, my flakes were short and I started using your method and it was super hard at first, but I have gotten more used to it. Now I hardly get steps, I guess because I am overly cautious lol. I have one problem tho. When I go to dress the edge, I have the edges so thin that they crush, even after I abrade them. Any advice? PS I am knapping glass.
you sound like this one dude who makes pvc bows.
I thought that I remember you saying once that your technique did not work for obsidian and glass?
This one is from a Riesling wine bottle I got from Walmart. See the link in the description for a picture of the label.
I have been watching your Vids all day, day they are wonderful ! how do you attach the indirect tool ? is it tied to your leg ?
Cool.
Yeah, 7/8" and no barb here too.
Hmmm... maybe. I know that I've said that I don't LIKE obsidian and glass. I prefer stone hands down. :-)
Where did you get the copper used to make the tool tips ? I wonder if Lowe's has it ?
Hi Allergic,I would like to know how low are u sitting off the ground ..and how long is ur stick that you got behind your knee? Thanks
Does your flaking stick have a notch on it or is it completely rounded
Behind my knee. See video 244.
Primitive weapon revival. It's almost religious.
I am so jealous of that glass a beaut thanks. I don't think it makes 1"? We require 7/8 here no barb.
:-)
Watch this video: "1/2 How I Make a Video - Wide View " on my channel. It shows my setup. The tools I use are about 10" long on average.
Mexicans, Chicanos, brothers and others.....