Ben I recently did a pair of vinyl seats. with this dye, it works great. I had the seats apart, when putting the them back together I had to slide the brackets over that newly dyed bottom. It didn't even leave a mark. I took the time to prep my parts which is the key. I feel these seats will last for years.
_Great video. Your key point about 'prep' here yields great results. Job well done Ben. Now can we talk about the yellow 1980/81 Corvette sitting next to your beloved '73._
Just a little addition as a guy that went the route of plastic paint and adhesion promoter which is only a marginally cheaper job. Having done it the slightly cheaper way (I was new to the scene at the time), proper preparation prevents piss poor performance, and with adhesion promoter I got about seven years out of the interior before it started to bubble slightly; even with that, the bubbles are still very small. Hopefully that's going to help somebody at some point.
Hey Ben, this is Roger on A’s I-pad we really enjoyed all of your videos. I’ve enjoyed it so much that I have a bid in on a 74 right now! You lit a fire under my ass , Thank you for all you do !
No adhesion promoter? I have dyed a bunch of plastic parts, and used much the same process as you. The prep is everything, just like any 'paint' job. However, I always use a good quality, SEM adhesion promoter. It is like glue for the dye and ensures that it won't flake off over time.
No! This is for Corvettes ONLY! DON'T YOU DARE utilize this technique on any other type of car! There's no telling how many horsepower this procedure adds!? Your Camaro may not be able to handle it! LOL LOL 😅
SEM color, is what most interior shops use. so I'm told by the shops.. They make a step 1, 2, 3 line.. the most important thing is an adhesion promoter.
Never had an issue with an adhesion promoter and SEM trim paint. Its when you dont clean properly dont use adhesion promoter and use crap paint where you have problems.
Is there any need, or benefit, to rubbing/wiping it after it fully dries. Perhaps, to remove any "dust" or excess that could possibly come off when touched, or is it good to go once it dries. I was planning on doing my C2 seatbacks and just curious as I've never used a dye before.
Hi Ben, I’ve been redoing the interior of my 74 and for the life of me I cannot figure out how to put the A-pillar pads back on. I bought new ones at Ecklers as my old ones were trashed. There are the “Velcro” tables but I cannot get them to “lock” also is there an adhesive that I should be using? Thank you for all of your content you have supplied so much information!
Any suggestions for prepping a previously dyed or painted piece? I have a couple panels that have been done before and are flaking. I think it may be paint or a bad dye job. Can I remove or clean it and get the correct dye to stick? Thanks
As Steve says 2 comments below, what is the longevity of this product? How does it react once the sun starts getting to it? What is the oldest Dye job you have revisited to see the current results? I am certainly interested in getting rid of my brown for a lighter blue...not sure if I'm all in yet as I don't want it to just end up turning to crap in 20 years...
Did you know if you take the plastic off the can it will be a Sims can underneath. I found that out years ago. Corvette America is good stuff don't matter who makes all I use.
I used same product (Royal blue color) on my steering column, and to me the result is too much flat color. Not sure if the can is either defective, color looks different on interior vinyl trim pieces or a final step with satin clear coat is needed. However when watching your video you got a nice satin result.
I just want to mention that Scrubbin Bubbles is a water rinse product. I'd rinse the pieces and let them dry before using the Grease and Wax Remover. I know Scrubbin Bubbles used to contain metallic salts and who knows what else, I'd rinse off the pieces instead of chancing it.
I actually know a couple of body and detail guys that swear by using easy off oven cleaner. But you need to do it outdoors or use a respirator. I use Dawn dish detergent for most everything from degreasing to applying tint.
I did this years ago, using the dye. It looks nice but still gives it a bit of a rough texture. Not sure if Ben or anyone has tips on how to smooth it out
Overspray causes it. Not, over spray. Also holding the can too far from the part you’re spraying OR too hot, causing the paint to dry some coming off the can. I’ve used 0000 steel-wool to remove the sandpaper feel on many dashboard, 88-98 Chevys, then manually buffed it, using one light coat of 303 UV protector. Let me know if you want the UPC CODE. How I got that technique: I went to a junkyard and I bought some interior parts from random cars to practice. Anyway, I’m now trying to dye the interior of my corvette but I don’t know what color to go with. It’s a dark blue exterior with newer black interior, and it doesn’t look good at all. I’m thinking of two tone. Maybe a gray with blue accents. Buckskin looks more like mustard.
Your painting motion needs work. Start off the piece and go in a single sweep to off the other edge. Your back and forth results in a blotchy uneven coat. Watch any of the spray paintrts on UA-cam like the Gunman or Pharraway to see what I mean
@@TheCorvetteBen my critique was meant to be helpful nothing more and is based on techniques used by professionals. I would respectfully ask you to delete the insulting comment by "gymshoes"
Thank you for showing the whole process. I’m about to do this with some of my interior parts and this was very helpful.
Thank you for this and saving my sanity. That's very thoughtful.
Thank you thank you that will give me confidence when I go to do mine I'll be dying mine red
very good video, thinking of changing my C4 from tan to black, now I know the correct product to buy
Ben I recently did a pair of vinyl seats. with this dye, it works great. I had the seats apart, when putting the them back together I had to slide the brackets over that newly dyed bottom. It didn't even leave a mark. I took the time to prep my parts which is the key. I feel these seats will last for years.
_Great video. Your key point about 'prep' here yields great results. Job well done Ben. Now can we talk about the yellow 1980/81 Corvette sitting next to your beloved '73._
Hey Ben, thanks for another great How-To video. The parts look great in the video and look better in person.
You are correct about the quality of dye to use. Good stuff! I dyed my e-brake cover from tan to black ten years ago , and it still looks great
Love watching your videos, straight to the point and very helpful Ben!
Corvette is the best. Were is your 73 my friend
Just a little addition as a guy that went the route of plastic paint and adhesion promoter which is only a marginally cheaper job.
Having done it the slightly cheaper way (I was new to the scene at the time), proper preparation prevents piss poor performance, and with adhesion promoter I got about seven years out of the interior before it started to bubble slightly; even with that, the bubbles are still very small.
Hopefully that's going to help somebody at some point.
Hey Ben, this is Roger on A’s I-pad we really enjoyed all of your videos. I’ve enjoyed it so much that I have a bid in on a 74 right now! You lit a fire under my ass , Thank you for all you do !
nice technique...thanks
No adhesion promoter? I have dyed a bunch of plastic parts, and used much the same process as you. The prep is everything, just like any 'paint' job. However, I always use a good quality, SEM adhesion promoter. It is like glue for the dye and ensures that it won't flake off over time.
Yeah, adhesive promoter seems like a must.
I don't know if this is more like a primer though where adhesive promoter isn't as necessary
That was very helpful Ben!
Ben this is the kind of video we love from you. I can use this for my Camaro also.
We just bought an 80 Camaro for $1200 to restore. Can't wait for this step!
Robin Ellis That sounds fantastic back in the day I had a 78 Trans Am and then a 79 Camaro and 81 Z 28 and I have loved them all.
No! This is for Corvettes ONLY! DON'T YOU DARE utilize this technique on any other type of car! There's no telling how many horsepower this procedure adds!? Your Camaro may not be able to handle it! LOL LOL 😅
@@schandler68 OK I won’t use this for my Camaro I sold it and now I have a Cts V
SEM color, is what most interior shops use. so I'm told by the shops..
They make a step 1, 2, 3 line.. the most important thing is an adhesion promoter.
Planning to do this on an obs ford. This helps a lot. Thanks.
Do you need to put a satin called over that after I see some guys do that or is it necessary
Great Video, thanks
Great! Thank you!
Never had an issue with an adhesion promoter and SEM trim paint. Its when you dont clean properly dont use adhesion promoter and use crap paint where you have problems.
Is there any need, or benefit, to rubbing/wiping it after it fully dries. Perhaps, to remove any "dust" or excess that could possibly come off when touched, or is it good to go once it dries. I was planning on doing my C2 seatbacks and just curious as I've never used a dye before.
Hi Ben, I’ve been redoing the interior of my 74 and for the life of me I cannot figure out how to put the A-pillar pads back on. I bought new ones at Ecklers as my old ones were trashed. There are the “Velcro” tables but I cannot get them to “lock” also is there an adhesive that I should be using? Thank you for all of your content you have supplied so much information!
Ben is the best
Have you ever used the primer?
Thanks. My old truck,(‘86 Ford), interior plastic has some hope.
Any suggestions for prepping a previously dyed or painted piece? I have a couple panels that have been done before and are flaking. I think it may be paint or a bad dye job. Can I remove or clean it and get the correct dye to stick? Thanks
As Steve says 2 comments below, what is the longevity of this product? How does it react once the sun starts getting to it? What is the oldest Dye job you have revisited to see the current results? I am certainly interested in getting rid of my brown for a lighter blue...not sure if I'm all in yet as I don't want it to just end up turning to crap in 20 years...
Buba layed paint on my whole interior working on stripping paint and doing it right
SEM Color Coat is the best product on the market. I wonder if the Corvette America stuff is actually supplied by SEM?
Great tutorial! Is it important to always spray this stuff while you're standing next to your Corvette? Lol
Did you know if you take the plastic off the can it will be a Sims can underneath. I found that out years ago. Corvette America is good stuff don't matter who makes all I use.
Hey Ben What's your opiniom on using flat vs gloss for interior pieces. ?
Have you ever used the adhesive promoter as primer? Also, with corvette America's dye, do you think a satin clear coat is necessary?
Yes a matte clear is a good idea
@@TheCorvetteBen cool. Thanks
Can I dye a black interior red even though red is a lighter color?
Is the same procedure used to color naugehyde/leather seats?
The CorvetteAmerica stuff is the same stuff as SEM ColorCoat - right?
I used same product (Royal blue color) on my steering column, and to me the result is too much flat color. Not sure if the can is either defective, color looks different on interior vinyl trim pieces or a final step with satin clear coat is needed. However when watching your video you got a nice satin result.
Would it be possible to go from black to red for instance?
I just want to mention that Scrubbin Bubbles is a water rinse product. I'd rinse the pieces and let them dry before using the Grease and Wax Remover. I know Scrubbin Bubbles used to contain metallic salts and who knows what else, I'd rinse off the pieces instead of chancing it.
I actually know a couple of body and detail guys that swear by using easy off oven cleaner. But you need to do it outdoors or use a respirator. I use Dawn dish detergent for most everything from degreasing to applying tint.
After Dye do you need to seal it?
I’ve got a camera, skills and a bunch of free time. I’m in dfw and I’d love to help you film sometime!
I did this years ago, using the dye. It looks nice but still gives it a bit of a rough texture. Not sure if Ben or anyone has tips on how to smooth it out
Overspray causes it. Not, over spray. Also holding the can too far from the part you’re spraying OR too hot, causing the paint to dry some coming off the can. I’ve used 0000 steel-wool to remove the sandpaper feel on many dashboard, 88-98 Chevys, then manually buffed it, using one light coat of 303 UV protector. Let me know if you want the UPC CODE. How I got that technique: I went to a junkyard and I bought some interior parts from random cars to practice. Anyway, I’m now trying to dye the interior of my corvette but I don’t know what color to go with. It’s a dark blue exterior with newer black interior, and it doesn’t look good at all. I’m thinking of two tone. Maybe a gray with blue accents. Buckskin looks more like mustard.
Oh boy, I just noticed this is a year old.
Hey Ben, 70% Alcohol works just as well and a whole lot cheaper for your final wipe down.
I test drove a Vette that had the seats dyed, and it was coming off on my clothes. Probably cheap dye.
It's $28 now
Joe
This is weird. I’m about to get started painting my black interior buckskin. We should have just swapped.
the 5 nays were manufacturers in China that make the cheap stuff..
😎👍🏼❤️❤️
sadly, speeding up the video didn't help my sanity any...
Find another saver
People that think autozone is any sort of quality, need to be educated.
Not a guide coat but a tack coat........
Your painting motion needs work. Start off the piece and go in a single sweep to off the other edge. Your back and forth results in a blotchy uneven coat. Watch any of the spray paintrts on UA-cam like the Gunman or Pharraway to see what I mean
Be as critical as you want, but you cant argue with the end result.
$20k and she is yours
@@aliceshaw8265 why would you go out of your way to insult a person you dont know. And do it anonymously behind a fake name.
@@TheCorvetteBen my critique was meant to be helpful nothing more and is based on techniques used by professionals. I would respectfully ask you to delete the insulting comment by "gymshoes"