Great video and information! 👍 I've sure had my time with them, I think the remote mirror adjust knob is the most aggravating! I like the 77 down door panels the best!
Thank you so much for posting this. Both my locks are stuck open so I will be cleaning and lubing them. I would greatly appreciate it if you could post the process when you do this on yours! Thanks again
@@76vette I just purchased a 1980. the locks work very hard. Inside I can get them to lock slightly bout the key will now turn in the lock on either the passenger or the driver side
@@masondey650 It’s hard to diagnose without looking at something in person, but what you’re describing could be related to bent rods, parts that need cleaning and lubrication, or a combination of all of the above. Anyway, the door latch is where the magic happens, and the majority of rods lead there. I am guessing your car does not have power door locks. Regardless, the first thing I would do is remove the door panels and spray something like PB Blaster Degreaser amzn.to/3YxGmOL all over the door latches, allow that to air dry followed by a dry spray lube, amzn.to/3rXQgwV Then see if that helps.
@@76vette thank you so much for your response and your guidance. I have power locks but they are only accessible on the interior. I will start with trying to clean and lube the mechanism. I’m guessing if both are bad it’s from becoming dusty and corrosion in storage. I will continue to watch your content. It is very helpful and greatly appreciated!
The power lock system on a 1980 is asinine. Driver side lock has no cam. The wiring attached to the lock sends a signal to the actuator which then opens the drivers door and simultaneously sends a signal to the passenger side actuator to unlock that door. Now the passenger side lock has a cam connected to a rod down to the lock which if you use a key to unlock the door will manually open the door as most vehicles w/o power locks operate. I find that the power locks are just a waste of hardware and brain cells. I just had my 1980 painted after a 4 yr frame on restoration. I bought a set of original manual locks and a cam and went total manual. I left the old actuators in place as well as the lock button 4 pin connector. I had my door panels redone by a super skilled guy in stitched black leather. He plugged the old lock opening and covered it over. Looks great and so do my all manual locks. If the next owner wants original spec power, they can deal with it. I love my old school manual keyed locks. So that's enough said about that. Good luck with yours.
It looks pretty difficult. I’ll give it a shot and see what happens. Unfortunately, filming the process will be almost impossible. I can hardly get my hand in the opening, let alone my hand, tools, and a camera.
@@76vette the task itself is pretty easy, but getting your hands up there is the trick. I think the 81 is slightly different but I took the rod clips off and moved stuff as much as I could out of the way. I used a pair of hose pliers to break the nuts free and then just used a flathead screwdriver to spin it off. It's definitely going to try your patience and make sure you've got your magnetic telescoping rod somewhere nearby because you'll drop that nut at least twice trying to get it back on and you're right, trying to film it up in there is definitely going to be a challenge 😆
When I replaced the one on my 76, removing the screws from the door latch assembly and allowing to drop down about an inch (while still connected to most of the rods), allowed me to reach the rearmost door handle nut. Otherwise, it would’ve been almost impossible. 😊👍🏻 www.76vette.com/2020/03/replacing-c3-corvette-exterior-door.html
@@76vette of course you've done it before, I should've known LOL. Probably more stuff in the way now for the 81 compared to the 76 but you know what you're up against. I forgot about that stupid clip until scrolling through from your site. I remember having to tie a string on that to get it back on since you can't get your hand in there
I haven’t made a video about adjusting the glass. My 81’s windows could use some adjusting, but if I keep working on this car I’m never gonna sell it. Lol 😆 Thank you for watching! I sincerely appreciate it. 😊👍🏻
Thanks. Yes, I plan to clean and lube as much as possible and will also remove the butyl remnants, add fresh tape, and install a new vapor barrier. 😊👍🏻
I had my door panel off the 79 just doing some window adjustments. Have you ever noticed any drain holes in your c3 doors. Mine doesn’t have them, but makes me wonder where the water goes that may run down a window opening? I’m sure no c3’s have water tight window openings!
There’s a drain hole at the very lower end of the door, right next to where the inner door skin has a curve that matches the door panel. It’s an oval-shaped opening that gives water that may get inside the door, a way out. Just make sure it’s clean and your door should be fine. 😊👍🏻 I snapped a couple of pics and will post them to the Community section.
I am looking to replace the door handles. Is it best to replace the entire door panel? Laurie Varela REALTOR®Virtual Properties Realty | United Commercial Advisors
The 2 screws in the pouch and on the carpet with the exposed heads are not factory. They were added by a previous owner. Also the machined bolts with the slotted heads are also not factory. Factory fasteners are #14 ×1-1/2 Phillips screws. The original holes in the door pan were probably stripped, so they forced machine screws into the holes. You can buy a kit from ecklers to fix them correctly if your intent is to restore to factory condition. Been there, done it
Funny when I replaced my door panels ....the date stamped on the back of the originals was July 1976...Love the content Luis. Thanks!
Thank you for watching! 😊👍🏻
Thanks for this vid! i´ve done the same thing several times and easy work altogether! greets from Finland W.another corvette enthusiast!
Thank you for watching! 😊👍🏻 Greetings from North Central Florida 🇺🇸
Very easy to follow. Thank you.
Thank you for watching! 😊👍🏻
Great video and information! 👍 I've sure had my time with them, I think the remote mirror adjust knob is the most aggravating! I like the 77 down door panels the best!
Yes on the “classic” door panels. By the late 70s most GM designs went “corporate,” meaning interchangeability. 🤨
Thank you for watching! 😊👍🏻
Thank you so much for posting this. Both my locks are stuck open so I will be cleaning and lubing them. I would greatly appreciate it if you could post the process when you do this on yours! Thanks again
Thank you for watching! 😊👍🏻
Can you elaborate on how and where the locks are stuck? Thanks. 😊👍🏻
@@76vette I just purchased a 1980. the locks work very hard. Inside I can get them to lock slightly bout the key will now turn in the lock on either the passenger or the driver side
@@masondey650 It’s hard to diagnose without looking at something in person, but what you’re describing could be related to bent rods, parts that need cleaning and lubrication, or a combination of all of the above.
Anyway, the door latch is where the magic happens, and the majority of rods lead there.
I am guessing your car does not have power door locks.
Regardless, the first thing I would do is remove the door panels and spray something like PB Blaster Degreaser amzn.to/3YxGmOL all over the door latches, allow that to air dry followed by a dry spray lube, amzn.to/3rXQgwV
Then see if that helps.
@@76vette thank you so much for your response and your guidance. I have power locks but they are only accessible on the interior. I will start with trying to clean and lube the mechanism. I’m guessing if both are bad it’s from becoming dusty and corrosion in storage. I will continue to watch your content. It is very helpful and greatly appreciated!
The power lock system on a 1980 is asinine. Driver side lock has no cam. The wiring attached to the lock sends a signal to the actuator which then opens the drivers door and simultaneously sends a signal to the passenger side actuator to unlock that door. Now the passenger side lock has a cam connected to a rod down to the lock which if you use a key to unlock the door will manually open the door as most vehicles w/o power locks operate. I find that the power locks are just a waste of hardware and brain cells. I just had my 1980 painted after a 4 yr frame on restoration. I bought a set of original manual locks and a cam and went total manual. I left the old actuators in place as well as the lock button 4 pin connector. I had my door panels redone by a super skilled guy in stitched black leather. He plugged the old lock opening and covered it over. Looks great and so do my all manual locks. If the next owner wants original spec power, they can deal with it. I love my old school manual keyed locks. So that's enough said about that. Good luck with yours.
I don’t envy you having to replace that handle. Did that on mine last year. 😏
It looks pretty difficult. I’ll give it a shot and see what happens. Unfortunately, filming the process will be almost impossible. I can hardly get my hand in the opening, let alone my hand, tools, and a camera.
@@76vette the task itself is pretty easy, but getting your hands up there is the trick. I think the 81 is slightly different but I took the rod clips off and moved stuff as much as I could out of the way. I used a pair of hose pliers to break the nuts free and then just used a flathead screwdriver to spin it off. It's definitely going to try your patience and make sure you've got your magnetic telescoping rod somewhere nearby because you'll drop that nut at least twice trying to get it back on and you're right, trying to film it up in there is definitely going to be a challenge 😆
When I replaced the one on my 76, removing the screws from the door latch assembly and allowing to drop down about an inch (while still connected to most of the rods), allowed me to reach the rearmost door handle nut. Otherwise, it would’ve been almost impossible. 😊👍🏻
www.76vette.com/2020/03/replacing-c3-corvette-exterior-door.html
@@76vette of course you've done it before, I should've known LOL. Probably more stuff in the way now for the 81 compared to the 76 but you know what you're up against. I forgot about that stupid clip until scrolling through from your site. I remember having to tie a string on that to get it back on since you can't get your hand in there
Thx for the video.
I need to adjust the glass. Going to see if you’ve made a video in regards to that.
I haven’t made a video about adjusting the glass. My 81’s windows could use some adjusting, but if I keep working on this car I’m never gonna sell it. Lol 😆 Thank you for watching! I sincerely appreciate it. 😊👍🏻
Looks nice. Good time to lube and grease the lock, latch and window tracks. Do you think you should add a plastic between door and door panel?
Thanks. Yes, I plan to clean and lube as much as possible and will also remove the butyl remnants, add fresh tape, and install a new vapor barrier. 😊👍🏻
My actuator set onfire so i only needed 50% of the video since i only have 50% of a door, lmao.
I had my door panel off the 79 just doing some window adjustments. Have you ever noticed any drain holes in your c3 doors. Mine doesn’t have them, but makes me wonder where the water goes that may run down a window opening? I’m sure no c3’s have water tight window openings!
There’s a drain hole at the very lower end of the door, right next to where the inner door skin has a curve that matches the door panel. It’s an oval-shaped opening that gives water that may get inside the door, a way out. Just make sure it’s clean and your door should be fine. 😊👍🏻
I snapped a couple of pics and will post them to the Community section.
I am looking to replace the door handles. Is it best to replace the entire door panel?
Laurie Varela REALTOR®Virtual Properties Realty | United Commercial Advisors
Only if the panels are totally ruined. 😊👍🏻
The 2 screws in the pouch and on the carpet with the exposed heads are not factory. They were added by a previous owner. Also the machined bolts with the slotted heads are also not factory. Factory fasteners are #14 ×1-1/2 Phillips screws. The original holes in the door pan were probably stripped, so they forced machine screws into the holes. You can buy a kit from ecklers to fix them correctly if your intent is to restore to factory condition. Been there, done it
Thank you for that information. I really appreciate it. 😊👍🏻
If it's worth doing it's worth doing right👍