Kind Thanks Steve for all the good and very helpful information! I also want to Thank You for the great tip to soak and dry your loading patches with Billistal! This works great and I’ve found it far better than other lubrications. Good Shootin and Many Blessings! DaveyJO in Pennsylvania
Just watched your master class on percussion rifles and found it incredibly informative. It was well thought out and very detailed. I learned some new info like the “compressed” patch thickness and also fouling in the breech plug area and how to clean it. I really appreciate your knowledge and experience. I subscribed, passed the channel along to my dad and look forward to learning more from you, much appreciated.
First off I want to thank you for your wealth of knowledge on muzzle loading, I found your channel by accident when looking at other videos My god you have answered so many of my thoughts and questions. I have been watching cap and ball and duelist 1954 for a while now but you simply have made me a solid believer in what you preach, For over a year now I have been wanting my dream flintlock I first was going to just get a pederzolli and rework the thing Then I was kicking the thought of getting all the parts on track of the wolf and making it myself But my wood working skills are dismal to say the least, Now I am looking to find a competent builder and have it made but the two I checked have a 2 to 3 year build time Geez im 60 and now that im old enough to afford my dreams time is not on my side LOL. I am thinking of looking at already built ones even though I want all the bling that's in my mind any help on what you would do would be greatly appreciated Thanks for everything Joe.
Watch the Track of The Wolf site. They offer used and new rifles for sale on commision. Those are priced a little high, but they are available. Check some of the flintlock chat boards too. The best way is to get involved with muzzleloader clubs and rendezvous groups. Someone always has good rifle they want to sell so they can buy something different. Good luck.
Worked for years at a black powder gun shop & I completely agree that by far the biggest problem we encountered with unreliable rock locks was zero lubrication! Very clear & concise treatment of this subject, sir. I thank you. If I would presume to add one thing it would be that a toothbrush does work well under hot running water to remove much of the fouling on the lock. But old toothbrushes may be too soft and have bent bristles. A new, dedicated toothbrush might be best. Or, alternativly, you could just use you wife's.......
Hey Partner, I own 4 smoke poles all 50 cal. I have been hunting whitetails for 30+ years with one or the other. I learned right away that if you shoot the rifle only once you must clean it and that means break the black powder rifle down and clean the heck out of it. Way too many people try flintlock hunting for deer and do not clean their rifles and ruin them. I install a new very sharp flint before each deer hunt, and I added a larger size touch hole on all my flintlocks as to aid in keeping the touch hole from clogging with residue. Keeping powder dry and changing pan powder often has helped in insuring a good ignition. Even so I have had two hang fires and a dry fire that cost me a deer, but I can live with my rare, missed opportunities. Oh, and replace your frizzen with a new "Case Hardened" one after a couple of years, especially or Thompson Center rifles. I do not know if it makes a difference, but I use only black powder, FFFF in my pans and FFF in my barrels and do not use FF at all. I love the small of burnt black powder in the morning!!!!!
That's a very helpful video. I guess locks are different but overall fairly similar. I used to be an auto mechanic so I'm fairly good at working on things. Well, I'm not as young as I used to be so I confess I'm slower than I used to lol
Your videos are such a great help to all-- I was wondering if you would consider doing one on how to take a lock apart and where to do the necessary filing/honing to get a decent trigger pull on my Lott lock on a Pedersoli 20 Ga. trade gun? I'd sure hate to ruin something by not knowing how to do it. The trigger pull is unbelievably tough-- so much so, that it is difficult to shoot off the bags, let alone offhand with a patched round ball.
Indeed I have, I even took it to a well known and trusted muzzleloader gunsmith in the area, and he did over $70 dollars worth of adjusting and filing to make it a tad better, but nowhere close to where I'll need it to compete. It still registers over 6# on my friends digital pull gauge. I thought I'd love to try polishing and filing to lighten it up, but I just don't know exactly where on the seer points that engages the notches on the tumbler to do so without ruining it or making it unsafe.
I can / have done it, but not sure I can guide you without my eyes on your lock and trigger. Is it a single trigger? With the lock out of the gun, does the tumbler move at all before the sear releases it? That will have you pulling against the main spring when you squeeze the trigger.
@@traditionalmuzzleloader4983 It is a single trigger, and no, the tumbler doesn't move an iota until the sear releases it, which is all I can do to push it up to release it-- and I'm a rather big guy with good strength in my hands and fingers. As I said, it's a Pedersoli and it has a large "Lott" lock on it.
How is the sear return spring? Is there movement of the sear before it trips? Could the trigger be installed so it does not engage the sear arm at the proper place on the top of the trigger bar? Many things could be the problem, just have to eliminate each one by one before polishing the sear or altering the tumbler.
Could one use olive oil as a substitute for bear oil? I’m trying to get set up for my first flinter and don’t want to spend a fortune if i can avoid it
I know it's not traditional, but I bring a can of compressed air to the range and also use it during cleaning. Helps to dry the bore quickly. At the range sprayed thru the touch hole it blows out any hot ash in the breach, also keeps the hole clear.
That's a good idea. I keep a CO2 device in my tool box to clear dry ball loadings and blockages. A lot of new folks need help to get their guns working.
@@traditionalmuzzleloader4983 Yeah I see that too! My go to for that is 4F but I use a percussion so it is easier to do it on then a flintlock. I try to keep things old school but sometimes things like CO2 and compressed air are just plain better! Thx again for your channel even an old critter like me can learn something for your channel.
At 11:47 the disassembly begins. I'm noting this here for my own reference, b/c if I write it down on a piece of paper the note will vanish in a flash.
Being clumsy, I take pictures with my cheap digital camera during disassembly the first time for each lock and save it on a thumbdrive. People more intelligent than I can remember the puzzle and have no need.
My brothers and I hunt bear over baits here in Maine, I dont think I'd ever heard of bear oil before. How is it made? Does one just rend bear fat down? If it's very useful we could use the fat from some of the bear we take and make it for people if they want it!
Could one use olive oil as a substitute for bear oil? I’m trying to get set up for my first flinter and don’t want to spend a fortune if i can avoid it
Some of my friends use olive oil. I believe it is called "sweet oil" in historical documents. I used CLP before I found bear oil. I also have friends who use transmission fluid. Unless you are trying to be very historically correct, I don't think it matters as long as you keep the lock lubed.
You sir are a great instructor. Thank you for the excellent video.
Glad it was helpful!
amen
This is a truly excellent video. Thank you for sharing it. I definitely learned some things I had never heard before & I've read a lot about cleaning.
Glad it was helpful!
I applaud your detailed knowledge of this fine traditional flintlock firearm. Fascinating watching your shooting and cleaning procedures.
Thank you
Kind Thanks Steve for all the good and very helpful information! I also want to Thank You for the great tip to soak and dry your loading patches with Billistal! This works great and I’ve found it far better than other lubrications. Good Shootin and Many Blessings! DaveyJO in Pennsylvania
Glad it was helpful!
Just watched your master class on percussion rifles and found it incredibly informative. It was well thought out and very detailed. I learned some new info like the “compressed” patch thickness and also fouling in the breech plug area and how to clean it. I really appreciate your knowledge and experience. I subscribed, passed the channel along to my dad and look forward to learning more from you, much appreciated.
Thank you for those comments. Glad to know you got something from the presentation.
First off I want to thank you for your wealth of knowledge on muzzle loading, I found your channel by accident when looking at other videos My god you have answered so many of my thoughts and questions. I have been watching cap and ball and duelist 1954 for a while now but you simply have made me a solid believer in what you preach, For over a year now I have been wanting my dream flintlock I first was going to just get a pederzolli and rework the thing Then I was kicking the thought of getting all the parts on track of the wolf and making it myself But my wood working skills are dismal to say the least, Now I am looking to find a competent builder and have it made but the two I checked have a 2 to 3 year build time Geez im 60 and now that im old enough to afford my dreams time is not on my side LOL. I am thinking of looking at already built ones even though I want all the bling that's in my mind any help on what you would do would be greatly appreciated Thanks for everything Joe.
Watch the Track of The Wolf site. They offer used and new rifles for sale on commision. Those are priced a little high, but they are available. Check some of the flintlock chat boards too. The best way is to get involved with muzzleloader clubs and rendezvous groups. Someone always has good rifle they want to sell so they can buy something different. Good luck.
Thanks for your videos, sure helped me on my percussion rifle with a Patent breech, lubricant for patches etc, very informative.
Thank you.
Worked for years at a black powder gun shop & I completely agree that by far the biggest problem we encountered with unreliable rock locks was zero lubrication!
Very clear & concise treatment of this subject, sir. I thank you.
If I would presume to add one thing it would be that a toothbrush does work well under hot running water to remove much of the fouling on the lock. But old toothbrushes may be too soft and have bent bristles. A new, dedicated toothbrush might be best. Or, alternativly, you could just use you wife's.......
Good point on the worn out toothbrush. However, I can't recommend using your Wife's toothbrush!
Thank you for your comments.
Love the wife's toothbrush. I may just use that. LOL
Great video Steve, thanks for sharing this great information.
You are very welcome, I hope you enjoyed it.
Hey Partner, I own 4 smoke poles all 50 cal. I have been hunting whitetails for 30+ years with one or the other. I learned right away that if you shoot the rifle only once you must clean it and that means break the black powder rifle down and clean the heck out of it. Way too many people try flintlock hunting for deer and do not clean their rifles and ruin them. I install a new very sharp flint before each deer hunt, and I added a larger size touch hole on all my flintlocks as to aid in keeping the touch hole from clogging with residue. Keeping powder dry and changing pan powder often has helped in insuring a good ignition. Even so I have had two hang fires and a dry fire that cost me a deer, but I can live with my rare, missed opportunities. Oh, and replace your frizzen with a new "Case Hardened" one after a couple of years, especially or Thompson Center rifles. I do not know if it makes a difference, but I use only black powder, FFFF in my pans and FFF in my barrels and do not use FF at all. I love the small of burnt black powder in the morning!!!!!
absolutely
What a great demonstration! Thanks
Glad you enjoyed it!
Thank you! I was wondering how often I should fully disassemble the lock.
Depends on how much and often you shoot.
Thank you for such an informative video.
I hope it is helpful.
Very informative, information I totally needed. Thank you. 👌🤠👍
Glad it was helpful!
Absolutely perfect, everything you said was exactly right, not one mistake !!!👍👍👍👍👍🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸
Thanks 👍
That's a very helpful video. I guess locks are different but overall fairly similar. I used to be an auto mechanic so I'm fairly good at working on things. Well, I'm not as young as I used to be so I confess I'm slower than I used to lol
I am glad you found it helpful. Yes, there are different "styles" of locks but they do function the same.
Very informative, thank you very much.
Thank you
Your videos are such a great help to all-- I was wondering if you would consider doing one on how to take a lock apart and where to do the necessary filing/honing to get a decent trigger pull on my Lott lock on a Pedersoli 20 Ga. trade gun? I'd sure hate to ruin something by not knowing how to do it. The trigger pull is unbelievably tough-- so much so, that it is difficult to shoot off the bags, let alone offhand with a patched round ball.
Joe, have you checked to see if any parts are rubbing against wood?
Indeed I have, I even took it to a well known and trusted muzzleloader gunsmith in the area, and he did over $70 dollars worth of adjusting and filing to make it a tad better, but nowhere close to where I'll need it to compete. It still registers over 6# on my friends digital pull gauge. I thought I'd love to try polishing and filing to lighten it up, but I just don't know exactly where on the seer points that engages the notches on the tumbler to do so without ruining it or making it unsafe.
I can / have done it, but not sure I can guide you without my eyes on your lock and trigger.
Is it a single trigger?
With the lock out of the gun, does the tumbler move at all before the sear releases it?
That will have you pulling against the main spring when you squeeze the trigger.
@@traditionalmuzzleloader4983 It is a single trigger, and no, the tumbler doesn't move an iota until the sear releases it, which is all I can do to push it up to release it-- and I'm a rather big guy with good strength in my hands and fingers. As I said, it's a Pedersoli and it has a large "Lott" lock on it.
How is the sear return spring?
Is there movement of the sear before it trips?
Could the trigger be installed so it does not engage the sear arm at the proper place on the top of the trigger bar?
Many things could be the problem, just have to eliminate each one by one before polishing the sear or altering the tumbler.
Could one use olive oil as a substitute for bear oil? I’m trying to get set up for my first flinter and don’t want to spend a fortune if i can avoid it
I know it's not traditional, but I bring a can of compressed air to the range and also use it during cleaning. Helps to dry the bore quickly. At the range sprayed thru the touch hole it blows out any hot ash in the breach, also keeps the hole clear.
That's a good idea. I keep a CO2 device in my tool box to clear dry ball loadings and blockages. A lot of new folks need help to get their guns working.
@@traditionalmuzzleloader4983 Yeah I see that too! My go to for that is 4F but I use a percussion so it is easier to do it on then a flintlock. I try to keep things old school but sometimes things like CO2 and compressed air are just plain better! Thx again for your channel even an old critter like me can learn something for your channel.
Muito linda esse rifle
Obg a vcs por não deixar a tradição se acabar. Valeu amigos que Deus abençoe vcs sempre.
Sou de lajes do cabuji
Wish I could translate.
Hi Steve. How often do you do a complete lock disassembly? Every time you go shooting, or once a season?
Once a year, or every six months. Depending on how much I shoot it.
At 11:47 the disassembly begins. I'm noting this here for my own reference, b/c if I write it down on a piece of paper the note will vanish in a flash.
Great detail....thanks!
You bet!
Wondering where you got your frizzen spring vise? I see one on Dixie but yours looks like it has more options on size of spring.
Muzzleloader builders supply.
Thanks for sharing with us Steve. Are the shooting rests from Protektor?
If I remember correctly, the bags are Protektor. The blue rest may be a Dillon. I've had them for more than forty years.
@@traditionalmuzzleloader4983 Thanks for letting know that. I will look for the Dillon rest at Brownells and Midway.
Hi where can you get these flush tubes or do you make them
Track of the Wolf, Dixie Gun Works usually have them.
@@traditionalmuzzleloader4983 ty so much for reply
Being clumsy, I take pictures with my cheap digital camera during disassembly the first time for each lock and save it on a thumbdrive. People more intelligent than I can remember the puzzle and have no need.
I do the same anytime I disassemble anything. I hate having parts left over after I put something back together!
You weren't in the national guard were you? If so were you ever at Ft. Polk, LA?
No.
My brothers and I hunt bear over baits here in Maine, I dont think I'd ever heard of bear oil before. How is it made? Does one just rend bear fat down? If it's very useful we could use the fat from some of the bear we take and make it for people if they want it!
Yes, you render the fat down into grease and oil. I use the crock pot at low heat. It makes great pie crusts. Or fried eggs. Or gun oil.
Could one use olive oil as a substitute for bear oil? I’m trying to get set up for my first flinter and don’t want to spend a fortune if i can avoid it
Some of my friends use olive oil. I believe it is called "sweet oil" in historical documents. I used CLP before I found bear oil. I also have friends who use transmission fluid. Unless you are trying to be very historically correct, I don't think it matters as long as you keep the lock lubed.
@@traditionalmuzzleloader4983 thank you! I try and be as historically accurate as possible