What I enjoy is after shooting I like to get a cup of coffee and set out back and clean and take my time wiping it all down. It's almost as enjoyable as shooting. Sounds weird I know but I do.
I'm exactly the same way. I enjoy the whole process. Ol dad taught me you put it up cleaner than you took it down. One of the few things that took. Have a great weekend!
It's all about setting yourself up for success. If you don't give yourself the time, the space, the tools, etc. needed to do the job, no wonder it's no fun. What is it you're trying to achieve here? Putting as many holes in a piece of paper as you can, or enjoying life?
Good to see how someone else does it. I was taught a similar method when I first started with a cap lock. I’ve developed a method of my own you may find interesting. I take the barrel out of the stock, put a ramrod with a wet patch all the way down the barrel and leave it, then I set the breech end in a gallon container of very hot soapy water. Then I pull the ramrod up almost to the top very fast, and that will suck water up into the barrel. Then I work the ramrod down to the breech plug and back up to muzzle, change patches, work back down and up until patches start coming out clean-ish. Then I remove the barrel from the water and continue wet patches until clean, I scrub the outside of the barrel that experienced powder fouling and the touch hole, then I run dry patches until I’m satisfied the bore and touch hole is thoroughly dry, then dry the outside of barrel then run a patch soaked in Bore Butter through the barrel and over the outside to protect it. I also clean the wood around the barrel and lock channels/inlets while I have the barrel and lock out. I don’t disassemble my lock when I clean it, though I probably should. It gets the same hot soapy water scrub/dry/bore butter the barrel does. I have to run a dry patch down the barrel before I shoot the next time to remove the bore butter, but I feel that’s a good practice anyway.
Veteran Iron&Wood I do similar if I don’t have a pinned barrel. Any rifle I have with a hooked breach and barrel wedges get done similar to how you describe. Pins make it more troublesome to do it that way and you risk wallowing out your pin holes, marring your stock and buggering up your screw heads. With pins I grease under the barrel and leave it in. Full takedown once a year.
I use a similar system, except I use a mop to pump the barrel, followed by a brass brush, finishing with a breech plug scraper. Next is new hot water and a bore rinse with boiling water (it evaporates quickly.) After that its just like oiling a modern gun (patches to clean & dry, then to oil.)
I have Cleaned my cap lock the same way for 50 years works very well. And if you pour a kettle of boiling water through the barrel and stand it muzzle down for a few minutes the hot barrel will dry in just a few seconds then oil it and your done. Whole process takes only a few min. And my rifle bore still looks like new.
I just cleaned and lubed my old Traditions "buck stalker" carbine cap lock like that today... literally the exact method you described. Keeps my rifle in great working order and I have yet to experience any rust. The rifle is from the late 1980s I believe. Not an old rifle by any means, but not new either. This is a great method!
Bob, I just rewatched your video on cleaning blackpowder guns. For 20 years I used the method you showed and thought I had it down pat. After I finished my 54 which I sent you pictures of the other day,I shot the rifle and of course cleaned it after shooting. I used a round toothpick in the touchhole, as I always did, then filled the barrel 3/4 of the way to the muzzle with water. I set it aside for a few minutes to get some patches and when I came back some water with the BP residue had leaked from around the toothpick and ran across my newly finished stock. There were two horizontal stripes on each side or the stock about 1/4 of an inch wide, running from the lock panels to the buttplate. To say I was sick would be an understatement. I started to rub it with a rough cotton cloth and it made no difference. Now I had sealed the stock with two coats of a sealer, followed by three coats of finish(a small amount rubbed in by hand), followed by two additional coats of the sealer. After it dried I put a light coat of paste wax on it . About 5 hours later and checking on ALR with some gunmakers I really respect, I came to the conclusion that those horizontal stripes will go away with time or I could strip the entire gun and start all over again(UGH!). Before bed they were lighter , and lo and behold, the next morning they were gone, and I mean GONE! You couldn’t wipe the smile off my face. So the hydrogen in the water must have mixed with the sulphur and oxygen to form a mild sulphuric acid solution, which was not capable of penetrating to the wood. It then evaporated, leaving the finish intact. Whatever I had on there protected my wood. I will be pulling pins in the future, I never want to see that again. Maybe the toothpick was not perfectly round. I don’t know, but I wanted to share my experience with you. Best regards and keep up the awesome work. Bob, I just realized why I had the water leaked around my touchhole leading to the stains on the stock on my 54 caliber rifle. DUH!! I thought we always had round toothpicks. This morning I discovered otherwise- my wife bought square toothpicks, which to the unaided eye, appear round IF one does not bother to put his or her reading glasses on. Low and behold, the reason for my leak became crystal clear! That was my mistake, I didn’t know they made square toothpicks. Flat ones, yes, but we have never had them in our household. Learn from my mistake, guys and gals, and make sure your tooth picks are perfectly round!
I think cleaning up my black powder guns is easier than modern smokeless powder guns . I enjoy the cleaning part as much as shooting them , nice and relaxing . Just back tracking and re watching videos , thanks for the good video's Bob .
I've avoided buying bp because I was worried the cleaning process is daunting but it honestly looks like shit of people over complicate it, the same way they do with smokeless. I
I am making paper cartridges today and enjoying watching your videos, Black Powder Maniac's, Duelist54, and other guys. There is one younger man that makes pretty cool pistol videos as well. I hope more younger people get into our beloved sport by watching you guys very informative videos. Keep up the good work Mr. Bob!
With all the misinformation out there, you hit it right on, "black powder residue corrodes metal, water neutralizes BP residue, water rusts metal, oil, inhibits rust." Would that someone had given me that good, simple advice when I was a lad. Also, that Mike Brooks rifle is so doggone sweet. When I saw it for sale a while back I would have sold my favorite rifle for it if I'd have had the time. Sure hope whoever has it appreciates it and shoots it often.
New subscriber have not shot bp in 50 55 yrs picked up Hatfield 45 flintlock and tradition's 50 cal flintlock to get me started now have to get accessories before getting to shoot can't wait ty for tutoring me
I love cleaning my Hawken as the prior comment mentioned. Like therapy. Part of the black powder experience. Great video thanks for your knowledge and sharing .
Great video Mr. Bob! When I was shooting for a few years, an old timer told me … "You can spend a whole lot of money on various cleaning solutions but nothing beats good old water. Everything in black power is water soluble so waste your money on something you can get outa the crick!" You hit all the bases. Good job! Big John
I make it a point to let the gun set for at least an hour after shooting. I have found that letting the humidity get absorbed here in the Deep South pulls just enough moisture to let the fowling soften deep down but still not rust the base metal. I then follow something similar to you but run water through several times basically using up a coffee pots worth of hot water by filling it up, let set 5 minutes, then dump and redoo, after about the second or third time, I just use up the rest of the pot by filling then dumping. I have used this trick to clean up after a match where I went through over 100 rounds in my musket and had only used a bristle brush between relays to clean it and only used 4 patches to clean the bore. P.S. I do use the 75/25 balistol mix on my patches and often simply pour some down the barrel and cock the hammer and lean the musket back so the Balistol and water mix is hydraulic forced out the nipple, unless the gun is being stored for a while after, I don't pull the nipple after cleaning.
Heard you mention "CLP". Dang, that brings back Marine Corps memories. Used to LOVE the smell of the gun cleaner / armory after a day at the range. OOH RAH!!! I still use military grade CPL on my caplock's. Found this channel for the desire to get a flintlock. You've got some Great videos, most of them straight and to the point and no messing about. Been learning a lot. Thanks a bunch!!
Excellent information Bob, I just run a very wet Ballistol patch for the last pass then store the rifle muzzle down on a piece of white paper towel. The oil, moisture if any, and remaining fouling will migrate down and out. After a week or so it is ready to hang up. Thank you for your work there are a lot of new shooters starting out and good information is needed.
TW 25 B lubricant protectant I have been cleaning with Ballistol as primary cleaner use rubbing alcohol over all metal parts and rub in the TW25B 3 to 4 times after a good cleaning. I now have no rust and i can leave it for a week at a time.
I used to spray my black powder pistols with WD 40 and they were still good after a few weeks before i gave them a good clean. Before shooting just brushed and swabbed out the bore and cylinder wiped over the gun with a clean cloth and poked out the nipples with a small pipe cleaner. Today corrosive primers or no longer so theres no worry with the corrosive salts from old primers. The soot from the blackpowder just absorbed moisture that activated the salts to rust out the barrels. You will find that flintlocks have better bores than the later percussion and cartridge guns that used these corrosive primers but back in flintlock days there was no WD40. Up to a certain time you still had to clean a modern rifle with a oil called Youngs 303, you mixed it with hot water which looked like milky machine coolant and swabbed out your barrel, this got rid off the corrosive salts from the surplus ammo that still used these type primers, no type of oil will remove these salts only water. If you use old surplus ammo from WW2 with corrosive primers its the only way to properly clean your gun, it will rust in the bore big time if not done properly.
I've been working on a rehab of a T.C. Hawken. First range trip today. This was a needed video for me... I will do a re-clean Sunday afternoon. Looked pretty good today, I just want to revisit the process to make sure I did a through job. The club has a shoot 4/24 and I need more range time to get the accuracy to a respectable level. I also need powder and caps...I know, good luck with that!
I dunno man. I just bought a thousand caps and a few pounds of powder and there was a TON still left over. The real issue is finding bullets but you should really be molding your own. Minne ball for acuracy, round ball for lethality.
Just discovered your channel. Love it. I'm just now getting back into flintlock shooting - been away for about 25 years. Just bought a Pedersoli Pennsylvania 50 cal and am looking forward to having some fun. Currently have a Lyman Great Plains rifle percussion so I have much of what I'll need for the new flintlock. Thanks for doing these videos.
Love the channel I'm subbed. you got a smoothie back there, that's my next build in a month. I place a dry patch in between the touch hole and pan then close the frizzen down to keep any of that black mess from running down my stock during the swabbing process works for me.
The Pretender: Yep, that’s a great idea, and another reason I use nothing but water. A lot of that other stuff will discolor you’re stock of it runs out of the touchhole. Great point! That’s my Eric Kettenburg Bucks County Schimmel 12 bore. It will star in my first shooting series. Stick around! Good luck with your build!
good video. like you said there is a lot of ways to clean. I do not put water near my gun. I use straight WD40, I bought 1 gallon. it works perfect, cleans all powder residue and will never rust anything! I never have to take my barrel out because water gets underneath. for those who still use water, try putting a trash bag over the barrel and draping the bag over the gun, put a rubber band at the muzzle and poking a hole in the bag to pour the water in. this will keep water from getting underneath your wood. and you can reuse the same bag. try it you will like it,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,
OLSKOOL I grease the bottom of the barrel before it’s removal/regrease several times per year and I never have any rust. Many folks like the traditional aspect of BP shooting which includes using water and greases, but as you say, ‘different strokes for different folks’. I’ve found WD40 works just fine as well. As does Simple Green, Murphy’s Oil Soap cocktails, etc. There’s just something about ‘the old fashioned way’ for me, that is part of the experience... Thanks for the comment! Keep em coming!
Great video! Just one caution though, when using water: if you use well water, like I first did, watch out for flash rusting! My well is loaded with iron. Even after using different preservatives (oils, CLP, Rig) my barrels still rusted! It finally hit me what was happening. The well water! Switched to store bought water, and never had a problem again.
I’ve tried boiling water in the past and have had a problem with flash rust on my unfinished (in the white) rifle barrels. With blued revolvers I would think that wouldn’t be much of a problem. Great comment thanks.
I only have pistols right now, so I break them down completely, every screw. All small parts go to the ultra sonic. The rest gets brushed and wiped with frog lube. I use a screw and a 3/8 piece of toothbrush for scrubbing the bottom of the 44 chamber. Some times I paint on butchers block over everything to make it shine. Kinda makes a protective coat too. Doesn’t last long in heat.
I've heard people grease the inside and do a full tear down 1-2 times a year, otherwise cleaning the outside, barrel and cylinder completely. A buddy of mine and I recently got 1860's and while I tore mine down, he gave this a try. Interested to see how it turned out.
Bob, thanks for sharing your knowledge and experience. I always learn something new when I watch BPTV. Could you do a tutorial on breaking down a lock ?
Didn't hear a single word you said. I was too busy looking at that rifle. Back in the good old days when I reenacted our Civil War, we would take the Enfield barrels and use buckets of water and a jag and patch, and suck the water right up the barrel until clean, and oil them up. With my double shotguns, which I use blackpowder shells in, I just get the water hose and go at it. With the 77' Charleville, I do it the same as we used to do with the Enfield's. It's all pretty much the same all the way around for most guns, except pinned barrels, which you need to be careful and not get water under the wood, but taking the barrel off once or twice a year and greasing the underside is sufficient. Perhaps the toughest cleaning has to be done on revolvers because of the multiple small areas that can be effected, but not so much when using real holy black. I learned long ago to throw pyrodex in the trash, because it does not matter how many times you clean a gun that has fired it, there is a pyrodex demon that forms a rust. It's almost as if they invented that stuff to destroy guns.
Yup, moose milk, I use that! A bit more commercial i guess, i finish with TC bore butter, mine are currently all percussion type, You have got some nice lookin guns there. Like fine art.
Thanks MrD! I love moose milk for cleaning! I finish with bear grease or barricade depending on how long it will set up. I have and have used bore butter to good result. 👍🏻
I am new to this, I just got a black powder last year. When you mentioned the graphite that made me feel a lot better because I thought I wasn’t getting it clean enough. And I was taking the whole gun apart every time which I’m now aware isn’t necessary. Thanks a bunch!
Do you ever use or recommend any of the hose/flush kits? I'm in the process of acquiring a Tennessee poor boy percussion rifle. I've had TC muzzle loaders in the past and just took the barrels off to clean those.
Thanks! I appreciate it. I grew up in Alaska for a time so there was a period I had all the 'bar' grease i could handle, but now I buy if from a fellow out West. I reach him through the American Longrifle Forum. Just post a request on the Sale/Wanted section if you're looking.
Yep. We have grapes, and make homemade wine. We have some apple trees, and make Mead. We also distill the occasional batch of distilled water and Essential Oils.....
I have learned so much from you in just a few days I cannot believe I did not search UA-cam for black powder shooting I stepped away for awhile and now want to go back old school with both bows and guns I used to get so frustrated cuz I could never get a totally clean patch I now realized it was Overkill. One of the questions I do have is on one of your other videos you said the old timers said not to put grease in the barrel Channel because it can soften and weaken the wood fibers which I have also heard with oil and our Grease but yet in this video you did wipe you're locked down with grease which is then touches the inside of the wood do you worry about that or not. It seems like where the lock fits into the stock is a very weak spot are fragile area do you need to worry about grease or water hurting this area. Is there a difference also between ballistol and water or the Moose milk that you get and the white bottle with a yellow label thanks Simon
Thanks Simon. What I was trying to say with the grease in the barrel channel is to not put too much. I had always put a very thin sheen of grease under the barrel (many old timers do too) and then once in a discussion some old guys scolded me for doing that, telling me it will permeate and soften the wood. The barrel channel of my Kibler is perfectly clean so I have used that as a test over the last few years and with a very light sheen of grease I get absolutely zero transfer of grease to the wood. So lets say, if you use grease make it a very light coat. On the lock mortice I use only the oil that I use on the back of the lock and am always very careful removing and inserting the lock after cleaning. Just be careful. The Moose Milk is the nickname for Ballistol mixed with water according to the instructions on the back of the Ballistol label. One part Ballistol, three parts water. It goes from clear to white when mixed, hence, Moosemilk. Use the mixture for dissolving BP residue and regular ballistol as an oil. Hope that helps! Thanks again Simon!
Just a question on the use of Ballistol. You seem to want to use 75/25 mixture. Would 100% Ballistol work better or does it have any adverse effect? I spray 100% Ballistol on my lock and wipe it off and leave the residue as a lubricant. Will this do any long term damage?
No it’s a combo of Ballistol and water. Ballistol is a type of water soluble oil mix so when mixed with water it turns white like milk. The recipe can be found on the muzzleloading forum. 👍🏻
Only thing I would suggest is to break off each end of the toothpick at about 1/3 length. Then you are less likely to dislodge it while the barrel soaks.
What about if you plan to shoot lead conicals like the hornady great plains bullet. Do you have to use a bore brush? If so, do you have to use a .45 cal brush in a .50 cal rifle to avoid jamming? And would you have to use brass/bronze brush or would nylon work. And how often would you have to use it? Any feedback would be greatly appreciated thank you
James Taylor Hey James! It is sort of a tallow when it’s not too warm and it quickly goes oily with heat. Kind of like bacon grease. I’m experimenting mixing a bit of Mink Oil/Tallow and a smidge of beeswax for summer to stiffen it up a bit.
Thanks Jordan. As long as it doesn’t have too much pitting it can be scoured out with a jag and some burgundy scotchbrite or similar. Just put some oil on the scotchbright and scour it really good. It should clean right up. If there is lots of rust and putting it can be rebored by someone like Bobby Hoyt for somewhere just north of $100. Totally savable.
Hey Jordan another video I saw from another good guy he used a 50 cal jag in a 54 (so slightly smaller) and the Very Fine (probably the burgundy he referred to) grit Scotch-Brite and did 50-60 passes with a new section of scotch brite every 10 strokes and it restored it. I need to do the same because of that one time I shot it and forgot all about it.
I don't own any flint locks haven't got that far yet. I spray Moose Milk down the barrel and let set about 5 min then run a patch down and the dirty Moose milk comes out the nipple hole. After that usually 4 patches and I'm done.
Question1: Do I need to clean the percussion lock every few cleaning like the flint lock? Question 2: For a percussion lock can you use the toothpick trick?
Hey Danny, not so important with a percussion lock but still give it a good wipe down each cleaning session. The toothpick is a bit small but I buy shishkabob skewers for my percussion guns. You can get a pack of 100 cheap from Walmart and cut them down and whittle them with your pocket knife so they plug your nipple. 👍🏻
Hot soapy water followed by a hot water rinse. The warmed barrel will accelerate evaporation. Dry it out and follow with a good gun oil inside and out.👍
Torry Good Hey Torry, thanks for the comment. RIG grease is best for that purpose but bear grease works well too on unfinished metal such as locks and barrels in the white.
Torry Good I use RIG grease under my barrel and only remove my barrels once a year. I rarely find rust. Give it a shot. Most gun stores carry it as does Amazon.
I hope I'm not driving you crazy yet but now that I have a place to get information a bunch of questions are coming to mind I have a custom made 4590 Flintlock I have never taken it apart as far as pulling the barrel from the stock I have taken the lock out I just watched your video on taking the barrel off of the stock. I have no clue as to which way my pins are driven in and whether or not they are tapered so I'm assuming I pick a side and just lightly tap I was wondering where do I get more pins how do I figure out how thick they are and where do I get more of them thank you for your time
Hello again. How important is it to have the ballistol and water mixture? Did you mix it yourself or did you buy it already premixed? I’m looking on Amazon for it and I’m not seeing anything that says wether it’s full strength or mixed. Thanks for all the helpful videos!
Question ? I'm using 777 if went hunting And got a deer would It be ok to clean the gun the following day My gun is a traditions Kentucky long rifle in .50 caliber
HaHa! Good advice! Hey, joking aside, great content on all these videos. Thanks for taking the time to create such good content and to share what you know with the rest of us!
You are better off using straight Ballistol to finish off lubing the inside of the bore. It doesn't go rancid or gum up like greases, especially animal fats.
Ricky Burton Historically they weren’t stained or sealed but I will put a light coat or two of sealer in those areas on my guns. I grease the bottom of the barrel when I have it out once or twice a year.
Hey Larry, the shape of the jag is keeping it on. If for some reason it comes off you need to have a 'tow worm' jag to get it out. It's a corkscrew and you put it down the bore and snags the patch and out it comes. Pretty rare for that to happen....
Nobody has ever answered this for me: at least some, but maybe not all, muzzleloaders have a breechplug that isn't completely flat across the face. At least some have a breechplug with a sub-caliber hole (a "powder chamber"?) centered in it. I have a Lyman Deerstalker that has this - I can see it with a borescope. Nobody ever mentions this in "how to clean" videos. Does that mean they're just getting clean enough without any special attention? Technically, the patches never go down into it unless you use a sub-caliber jag with a centering collar, and I've never seen anybody do that.
Hey JJ, every gun is different but if you plug the flash hole and fill the barrel with water, let it set for 5 mins and then pull the plug and let it drain through half of the water and then pour out the other half through the muzzle you should be just fine. I'd do that twice then load a dry patch to blow out the remainder of the water, use your bore cleaner on half dozen patches, then oil, you should be good to go....
I'm a little surprised you said to take the lock off. I figured there was basically nothing that needed cleaning on a flintlock that couldn't be reached without disassembly.
Really interesting video on cleaning. I'm kinda new to blackpowder looking to get into flintlocks. But on a budget wondering if you've dun a video on what would be a good entry level flintlock rifle? Or any advice on what to buy. Thanks
Thanks Kevin! I haven't done that video but it's a great idea. I am happy to point you in the right direction. Email me at bob@blackpowdertv.om Thanks!
After a hot long enjoyable day of competition I dont like the rush to have to do all that cleaning anymore,and I was thinking of getting s flintlock but it's more cleaning,I guess I'm getting old.
I can usually get it done in 15 mins. Try having the boys out and shooting 10 different of my black powder guns. By the time I’m done I don’t want to see a gun for a month....
Good stuff.. but two points.. carbon and sulphur residue is not water soluable.. you really need some detergent to shift it I would add a couple of drops of washing up liquid to the water. Ballistol moose milk is also excellent. Can I also give a shout out for Birchwood Casey Muzzle Magic which, if you dont' have access to water is very efficient. Never put a dry patch down a muzzle loader unless you have a mirror like bore.. any pitting will grab a dry patch like a finger trap! Be very careful to clean with a water based cleaner if you are using pyrodex. pyrodex has perchlorate in it and will rust your barrel. I reccomend a re-clean 24hrs later!
I used to clean mine in really hot water . Put it in the bathtub and soak it in hot soapy water. Then wire brush, patches and light oil . The hot water the barrel dried quickly. Why use hot water
Carl Aldridge Great question. I run a few dry patches down the bore to remove any oil and blow out the touch hole, I use a bit of alcohol on the frizzen surface and flint so I have no issues with getting a good spark (or at least make sure it’s wiped off very well), I make sure the flint is sharp and held tight in the jaws, and make sure the pan is dry. That’s about it. I will wipe any excess oil off the outside as well so the gun isn’t slick.
You sure can but it’s a bit overkill as they really don’t get that dirty. If you have one and do use it I’d just put the parts in the oven for a few to make sure they are dry and you’re good to go. 👍🏻
What I enjoy is after shooting I like to get a cup of coffee and set out back and clean and take my time wiping it all down. It's almost as enjoyable as shooting. Sounds weird I know but I do.
I'm exactly the same way. I enjoy the whole process. Ol dad taught me you put it up cleaner than you took it down. One of the few things that took. Have a great weekend!
me too bullfrog, love it.
I am the same way!
It's all about setting yourself up for success. If you don't give yourself the time, the space, the tools, etc. needed to do the job, no wonder it's no fun. What is it you're trying to achieve here? Putting as many holes in a piece of paper as you can, or enjoying life?
me too ! I take 21/2 hours to clean a brass 1851... my wite hates it !
Good to see how someone else does it. I was taught a similar method when I first started with a cap lock. I’ve developed a method of my own you may find interesting. I take the barrel out of the stock, put a ramrod with a wet patch all the way down the barrel and leave it, then I set the breech end in a gallon container of very hot soapy water. Then I pull the ramrod up almost to the top very fast, and that will suck water up into the barrel. Then I work the ramrod down to the breech plug and back up to muzzle, change patches, work back down and up until patches start coming out clean-ish. Then I remove the barrel from the water and continue wet patches until clean, I scrub the outside of the barrel that experienced powder fouling and the touch hole, then I run dry patches until I’m satisfied the bore and touch hole is thoroughly dry, then dry the outside of barrel then run a patch soaked in Bore Butter through the barrel and over the outside to protect it. I also clean the wood around the barrel and lock channels/inlets while I have the barrel and lock out. I don’t disassemble my lock when I clean it, though I probably should. It gets the same hot soapy water scrub/dry/bore butter the barrel does. I have to run a dry patch down the barrel before I shoot the next time to remove the bore butter, but I feel that’s a good practice anyway.
Veteran Iron&Wood I do similar if I don’t have a pinned barrel. Any rifle I have with a hooked breach and barrel wedges get done similar to how you describe. Pins make it more troublesome to do it that way and you risk wallowing out your pin holes, marring your stock and buggering up your screw heads. With pins I grease under the barrel and leave it in. Full takedown once a year.
I use a similar system, except I use a mop to pump the barrel, followed by a brass brush, finishing with a breech plug scraper. Next is new hot water and a bore rinse with boiling water (it evaporates quickly.) After that its just like oiling a modern gun (patches to clean & dry, then to oil.)
I have Cleaned my cap lock the same way for 50 years works very well. And if you pour a kettle of boiling water through the barrel and stand it muzzle down for a few minutes the hot barrel will dry in just a few seconds then oil it and your done. Whole process takes only a few min. And my rifle bore still looks like new.
I just cleaned and lubed my old Traditions "buck stalker" carbine cap lock like that today... literally the exact method you described. Keeps my rifle in great working order and I have yet to experience any rust. The rifle is from the late 1980s I believe. Not an old rifle by any means, but not new either. This is a great method!
Bob, I just rewatched your video on cleaning blackpowder guns. For 20 years I used the method you showed and thought I had it down pat. After I finished my 54 which I sent you pictures of the other day,I shot the rifle and of course cleaned it after shooting. I used a round toothpick in the touchhole, as I always did, then filled the barrel 3/4 of the way to the muzzle with water. I set it aside for a few minutes to get some patches and when I came back some water with the BP residue had leaked from around the toothpick and ran across my newly finished stock. There were two horizontal stripes on each side or the stock about 1/4 of an inch wide, running from the lock panels to the buttplate. To say I was sick would be an understatement. I started to rub it with a rough cotton cloth and it made no difference.
Now I had sealed the stock with two coats of a sealer, followed by three coats of finish(a small amount rubbed in by hand), followed by two additional coats of the sealer. After it dried I put a light coat of paste wax on it .
About 5 hours later and checking on ALR with some gunmakers I really respect, I came to the conclusion that those horizontal stripes will go away with time or I could strip the entire gun and start all over again(UGH!). Before bed they were lighter , and lo and behold, the next morning they were gone, and I mean GONE! You couldn’t wipe the smile off my face.
So the hydrogen in the water must have mixed with the sulphur and oxygen to form a mild sulphuric acid solution, which was not capable of penetrating to the wood. It then evaporated, leaving the finish intact. Whatever I had on there protected my wood. I will be pulling pins in the future, I never want to see that again. Maybe the toothpick was not perfectly round. I don’t know, but I wanted to share my experience with you. Best regards and keep up the awesome work.
Bob, I just realized why I had the water leaked around my touchhole leading to the stains on the stock on my 54 caliber rifle. DUH!! I thought we always had round toothpicks. This morning I discovered otherwise- my wife bought square toothpicks, which to the unaided eye, appear round IF one does not bother to put his or her reading glasses on. Low and behold, the reason for my leak became crystal clear! That was my mistake, I didn’t know they made square toothpicks. Flat ones, yes, but we have never had them in our household. Learn from my mistake, guys and gals, and make sure your tooth picks are perfectly round!
I think cleaning up my black powder guns is easier than modern smokeless powder guns . I enjoy the cleaning part as much as shooting them , nice and relaxing . Just back tracking and re watching videos , thanks for the good video's Bob .
I think so too. Thanks Dan!
I've avoided buying bp because I was worried the cleaning process is daunting but it honestly looks like shit of people over complicate it, the same way they do with smokeless. I
I am making paper cartridges today and enjoying watching your videos, Black Powder Maniac's, Duelist54, and other guys. There is one younger man that makes pretty cool pistol videos as well. I hope more younger people get into our beloved sport by watching you guys very informative videos. Keep up the good work Mr. Bob!
Thanks James, I'm subscribed to the young guy too, his blooper videos are hilarious.... Thanks!
You hit a home run with this one. You covered all 4 bases. Great job my friend. Keep 'em coming........
Thanks BPMS! High praise! Have a great weekend!
With all the misinformation out there, you hit it right on, "black powder residue corrodes metal, water neutralizes BP residue, water rusts metal, oil, inhibits rust." Would that someone had given me that good, simple advice when I was a lad. Also, that Mike Brooks rifle is so doggone sweet. When I saw it for sale a while back I would have sold my favorite rifle for it if I'd have had the time. Sure hope whoever has it appreciates it and shoots it often.
New subscriber have not shot bp in 50 55 yrs picked up Hatfield 45 flintlock and tradition's 50 cal flintlock to get me started now have to get accessories before getting to shoot can't wait ty for tutoring me
I love cleaning my Hawken as the prior comment mentioned. Like therapy. Part of the black powder experience. Great video thanks for your knowledge and sharing .
Great video Mr. Bob! When I was shooting for a few years, an old timer told me … "You can spend a whole lot of money on various cleaning solutions but nothing beats good old water. Everything in black power is water soluble so waste your money on something you can get outa the crick!" You hit all the bases. Good job!
Big John
Thanks Bog John! Those old timers knew which way was up, that’s for sure!
I make it a point to let the gun set for at least an hour after shooting. I have found that letting the humidity get absorbed here in the Deep South pulls just enough moisture to let the fowling soften deep down but still not rust the base metal. I then follow something similar to you but run water through several times basically using up a coffee pots worth of hot water by filling it up, let set 5 minutes, then dump and redoo, after about the second or third time, I just use up the rest of the pot by filling then dumping. I have used this trick to clean up after a match where I went through over 100 rounds in my musket and had only used a bristle brush between relays to clean it and only used 4 patches to clean the bore.
P.S. I do use the 75/25 balistol mix on my patches and often simply pour some down the barrel and cock the hammer and lean the musket back so the Balistol and water mix is hydraulic forced out the nipple, unless the gun is being stored for a while after, I don't pull the nipple after cleaning.
Heard you mention "CLP". Dang, that brings back Marine Corps memories. Used to LOVE the smell of the gun cleaner / armory after a day at the range. OOH RAH!!!
I still use military grade CPL on my caplock's. Found this channel for the desire to get a flintlock. You've got some Great videos, most of them straight and to the point and no messing about. Been learning a lot. Thanks a bunch!!
Thank you for taking the time to do this tutorial. Much appreciated
Now that I've acquired my first flinter, I'm coming back to this vid. Super helpful!
Excellent information Bob, I just run a very wet Ballistol patch for the last pass then store the rifle muzzle down on a piece of white paper towel. The oil, moisture if any, and remaining fouling will migrate down and out. After a week or so it is ready to hang up.
Thank you for your work there are a lot of new shooters starting out and good information is needed.
Thanks Bunk!
TW 25 B lubricant protectant I have been cleaning with Ballistol as primary cleaner use rubbing alcohol over all metal parts and rub in the TW25B 3 to 4 times after a good cleaning. I now have no rust and i can leave it for a week at a time.
I used to spray my black powder pistols with WD 40 and they were still good after a few weeks before i gave them a good clean. Before shooting just brushed and swabbed out the bore and cylinder wiped over the gun with a clean cloth and poked out the nipples with a small pipe cleaner. Today corrosive primers or no longer so theres no worry with the corrosive salts from old primers. The soot from the blackpowder just absorbed moisture that activated the salts to rust out the barrels. You will find that flintlocks have better bores than the later percussion and cartridge guns that used these corrosive primers but back in flintlock days there was no WD40. Up to a certain time you still had to clean a modern rifle with a oil called Youngs 303, you mixed it with hot water which looked like milky machine coolant and swabbed out your barrel, this got rid off the corrosive salts from the surplus ammo that still used these type primers, no type of oil will remove these salts only water. If you use old surplus ammo from WW2 with corrosive primers its the only way to properly clean your gun, it will rust in the bore big time if not done properly.
Very good and informative
Great Video! Just found your channel and really like it.
Thanks so much that was the best video I have seen on the subject. I just bought a Brown Bess .
You’re welcome and thanks for the kind words!
Hi Ron, I enjoyed your video. I just bought my first muzzleloader and want to set it up like yours (mk-87 .54).
I live in SE Idaho.
I've been working on a rehab of a T.C. Hawken. First range trip today. This was a needed video for me... I will do a re-clean Sunday afternoon. Looked pretty good today, I just want to revisit the process to make sure I did a through job. The club has a shoot 4/24 and I need more range time to get the accuracy to a respectable level. I also need powder and caps...I know, good luck with that!
I dunno man.
I just bought a thousand caps and a few pounds of powder and there was a TON still left over.
The real issue is finding bullets but you should really be molding your own. Minne ball for acuracy, round ball for lethality.
Yes, I am Austrian and speak German & English!
👍 = es gibt nichts mehr zu sagen! Alles perfekt!
SO?
Good job. How about scraping the beech first thing?
Just discovered your channel. Love it. I'm just now getting back into flintlock shooting - been away for about 25 years. Just bought a Pedersoli Pennsylvania 50 cal and am looking forward to having some fun. Currently have a Lyman Great Plains rifle percussion so I have much of what I'll need for the new flintlock. Thanks for doing these videos.
Thanks! I appreciate it! That Pedersoli ought to work just fine! Nice!
Love the channel I'm subbed. you got a smoothie back there, that's my next build in a month. I place a dry patch in between the touch hole and pan then close the frizzen down to keep any of that black mess from running down my stock during the swabbing process works for me.
The Pretender: Yep, that’s a great idea, and another reason I use nothing but water. A lot of that other stuff will discolor you’re stock of it runs out of the touchhole. Great point!
That’s my Eric Kettenburg Bucks County Schimmel 12 bore. It will star in my first shooting series. Stick around! Good luck with your build!
Nice and extremely simple. Thanks so much. I didn’t like the idea of taking my stock off every time the gun needed cleaning.
John in Alberta Canada
Thanks John!
good video. like you said there is a lot of ways to clean. I do not put water near my gun. I use straight WD40, I bought 1 gallon. it works perfect, cleans all powder residue and will never rust anything! I never have to take my barrel out because water gets underneath. for those who still use water, try putting a trash bag over the barrel and draping the bag over the gun, put a rubber band at the muzzle and poking a hole in the bag to pour the water in. this will keep water from getting underneath your wood. and you can reuse the same bag. try it you will like it,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,
OLSKOOL I grease the bottom of the barrel before it’s removal/regrease several times per year and I never have any rust. Many folks like the traditional aspect of BP shooting which includes using water and greases, but as you say, ‘different strokes for different folks’. I’ve found WD40 works just fine as well. As does Simple Green, Murphy’s Oil Soap cocktails, etc. There’s just something about ‘the old fashioned way’ for me, that is part of the experience... Thanks for the comment! Keep em coming!
Excellent video
I have just bought a French 1717 musket and a Brown Bess, your channel will be helpful ^^
Thanks . New to the channel and really like it. Will recommend it to all our club members at Mascouten Bay Longrifles here in Illinois
Thanks so much Jerry, I really appreciate it!
Great video! Just one caution though, when using water: if you use well water, like I first did, watch out for flash rusting! My well is loaded with iron. Even after using different preservatives (oils, CLP, Rig) my barrels still rusted! It finally hit me what was happening. The well water! Switched to store bought water, and never had a problem again.
interesting
Great vid!!!! Cleaning your gun is just part of the experience!!!
Thanks alot, I appreciate it. Yes, it is!
Boiling water is the first cleaning agent I ever used. Boiling because it heat the barrel and evaporates remaining moisture supposedly.
I’ve tried boiling water in the past and have had a problem with flash rust on my unfinished (in the white) rifle barrels. With blued revolvers I would think that wouldn’t be much of a problem. Great comment thanks.
I only have pistols right now, so I break them down completely, every screw. All small parts go to the ultra sonic. The rest gets brushed and wiped with frog lube. I use a screw and a 3/8 piece of toothbrush for scrubbing the bottom of the 44 chamber. Some times I paint on butchers block over everything to make it shine. Kinda makes a protective coat too. Doesn’t last long in heat.
I've heard people grease the inside and do a full tear down 1-2 times a year, otherwise cleaning the outside, barrel and cylinder completely. A buddy of mine and I recently got 1860's and while I tore mine down, he gave this a try. Interested to see how it turned out.
Bob....can you do a video on tow and how to use it on muzzleloaders. Thank you.
John Bernstein That’s a great idea. I’ll get that made ASAP. Thanks!
Bob, thanks for sharing your knowledge and experience. I always learn something new when I watch BPTV. Could you do a tutorial on breaking down a lock ?
j j : I’ll do that. I’m recovering from Carpal Tunnel Surgery but I should be up and running next week. I’ll do a lock video ASAP. Thanks!
@@BlackPowderTV yea, a lock video bud. Do you have a percussion lock you could do too?
James Sparhawk sure do. Great idea. It’s on the short list.
I use steam, but the basic idea is the same. I to finish with Balistol, great for muzzleloaders.
Good Job! Very good Information! Thank You!
I put a mark on a jar (tape actually) such that I don't over-fill my bbl. Also firing a squibb last shot reduces the fouling you'll find.
Thanks Wade. Both great advice. I particularly like the tape on the jar trick and will add it to my repor-twaar.
what is a squibb Wade?
i still use thompson's #13 works excellent
Didn't hear a single word you said. I was too busy looking at that rifle. Back in the good old days when I reenacted our Civil War, we would take the Enfield barrels and use buckets of water and a jag and patch, and suck the water right up the barrel until clean, and oil them up. With my double shotguns, which I use blackpowder shells in, I just get the water hose and go at it. With the 77' Charleville, I do it the same as we used to do with the Enfield's. It's all pretty much the same all the way around for most guns, except pinned barrels, which you need to be careful and not get water under the wood, but taking the barrel off once or twice a year and greasing the underside is sufficient. Perhaps the toughest cleaning has to be done on revolvers because of the multiple small areas that can be effected, but not so much when using real holy black. I learned long ago to throw pyrodex in the trash, because it does not matter how many times you clean a gun that has fired it, there is a pyrodex demon that forms a rust. It's almost as if they invented that stuff to destroy guns.
Lol! Right on. She's a beaut. Thanks for the excellent comment! You are 100% right on the Pyrodex....
Yup, moose milk, I use that! A bit more commercial i guess, i finish with TC bore butter, mine are currently all percussion type, You have got some nice lookin guns there. Like fine art.
Thanks MrD! I love moose milk for cleaning! I finish with bear grease or barricade depending on how long it will set up. I have and have used bore butter to good result. 👍🏻
I am new to this, I just got a black powder last year. When you mentioned the graphite that made me feel a lot better because I thought I wasn’t getting it clean enough. And I was taking the whole gun apart every time which I’m now aware isn’t necessary. Thanks a bunch!
You bet brother! Just make sure to get it as clean as possible and don’t let it set until tomorrow or you’ll get some pitting. Welcome!
Do you ever use or recommend any of the hose/flush kits? I'm in the process of acquiring a Tennessee poor boy percussion rifle. I've had TC muzzle loaders in the past and just took the barrels off to clean those.
Thank you so much for all your tips! But, where did you get your hat? I think it look Great! I'd like find one just like it.
Thanks for the kind words! I bought it from a feller on the ALR forum. Handmade by someone down the line. I never could find that out.
Very informative video, thanks!
Thanks Zack!
Very cool! Love the vids, SUPERB info especially for beginners. Where do you get your “bar grease”? Did you have to “kilt” you one or did you buy it?
Thanks! I appreciate it. I grew up in Alaska for a time so there was a period I had all the 'bar' grease i could handle, but now I buy if from a fellow out West. I reach him through the American Longrifle Forum. Just post a request on the Sale/Wanted section if you're looking.
Wonderful video. I cannot thank you enough!!!
F B Thanks for the kind words!
Great video. Can you make a video on shooting and cleaning for us that use Pyrodex??
I've wondered how people who own fine custom flintlocks, and who actually use them, go about cleaning and maintaining them. Good job.
Thanks JT!
Great video. Could I use Kroil in place of Ballistol. Thanks.
Great video with great info will keep watching.
Thanks Bigcountrychef! Please do stick around! Have a good one!
Black Powder TV looks like you do some home brewing as well
Yep. We have grapes, and make homemade wine. We have some apple trees, and make Mead. We also distill the occasional batch of distilled water and Essential Oils.....
Where do you get your bear grease? You are doing a great job and have a blessed day 🙏.........
I get it from a hunter who sets up at colonial art shows. Thanks Mike!
I think I’ll make some bear grease this fall. I’m a taxidermist so I can get bear fat. Thanks for all your videos Bob. I’m learning lots from them!
Thanks Jim! Bear grease is good stuff!
What all-in-one grease/oil can I get for my Hawken percussion muzzleloader? Thanks
I have learned so much from you in just a few days I cannot believe I did not search UA-cam for black powder shooting I stepped away for awhile and now want to go back old school with both bows and guns I used to get so frustrated cuz I could never get a totally clean patch I now realized it was Overkill. One of the questions I do have is on one of your other videos you said the old timers said not to put grease in the barrel Channel because it can soften and weaken the wood fibers which I have also heard with oil and our Grease but yet in this video you did wipe you're locked down with grease which is then touches the inside of the wood do you worry about that or not. It seems like where the lock fits into the stock is a very weak spot are fragile area do you need to worry about grease or water hurting this area. Is there a difference also between ballistol and water or the Moose milk that you get and the white bottle with a yellow label thanks Simon
Thanks Simon. What I was trying to say with the grease in the barrel channel is to not put too much. I had always put a very thin sheen of grease under the barrel (many old timers do too) and then once in a discussion some old guys scolded me for doing that, telling me it will permeate and soften the wood. The barrel channel of my Kibler is perfectly clean so I have used that as a test over the last few years and with a very light sheen of grease I get absolutely zero transfer of grease to the wood. So lets say, if you use grease make it a very light coat. On the lock mortice I use only the oil that I use on the back of the lock and am always very careful removing and inserting the lock after cleaning. Just be careful. The Moose Milk is the nickname for Ballistol mixed with water according to the instructions on the back of the Ballistol label. One part Ballistol, three parts water. It goes from clear to white when mixed, hence, Moosemilk. Use the mixture for dissolving BP residue and regular ballistol as an oil. Hope that helps! Thanks again Simon!
Can additionally put some soda (powder) with water a VERY GOOD neutralization since the traditional black powder has carbon and sulfur inside ...
Just a question on the use of Ballistol. You seem to want to use 75/25 mixture. Would 100% Ballistol work better or does it have any adverse effect?
I spray 100% Ballistol on my lock and wipe it off and leave the residue as a lubricant. Will this do any long term damage?
I don't understand what barrel rod tip you used to keep the patch to not fall off
Is Moose milk a concoction you came up with or is it bought commercially? Thanks for the great videos!
No it’s a combo of Ballistol and water. Ballistol is a type of water soluble oil mix so when mixed with water it turns white like milk. The recipe can be found on the muzzleloading forum. 👍🏻
Only thing I would suggest is to break off each end of the toothpick at about 1/3 length. Then you are less likely to dislodge it while the barrel soaks.
Great point. Also less likely to break in off in the hole, ask me how I know. Thanks for the input!
What about if you plan to shoot lead conicals like the hornady great plains bullet. Do you have to use a bore brush? If so, do you have to use a .45 cal brush in a .50 cal rifle to avoid jamming? And would you have to use brass/bronze brush or would nylon work. And how often would you have to use it? Any feedback would be greatly appreciated thank you
Great video, but what is “bear grease” thanks
I use hot water because it heats the barrel and helps dry it after I use bear oil all over .
That works great. I do to sometimes! Thanks!
Hey Bob, the bear grease.... where do you get that? And is grease or oil? Great video.
James Taylor Hey James! It is sort of a tallow when it’s not too warm and it quickly goes oily with heat. Kind of like bacon grease. I’m experimenting mixing a bit of Mink Oil/Tallow and a smidge of beeswax for summer to stiffen it up a bit.
@@BlackPowderTV Thanks Bob!
Great video. I have a Traditions Hawken that has been sitting for years. It has some surface rust in the bore. Can it be saved?
Thanks Jordan. As long as it doesn’t have too much pitting it can be scoured out with a jag and some burgundy scotchbrite or similar. Just put some oil on the scotchbright and scour it really good. It should clean right up. If there is lots of rust and putting it can be rebored by someone like Bobby Hoyt for somewhere just north of $100. Totally savable.
@@BlackPowderTV Thank you so much for the fast reply!! The rifle was my high school graduation gift in 2005, so I really want to save it!
Very cool. Get it scoured out and get some gun oil or a rust inhibiting grease in there to keep it stable. 👍🏻
Hey Jordan another video I saw from another good guy he used a 50 cal jag in a 54 (so slightly smaller) and the Very Fine (probably the burgundy he referred to) grit Scotch-Brite and did 50-60 passes with a new section of scotch brite every 10 strokes and it restored it. I need to do the same because of that one time I shot it and forgot all about it.
I don't own any flint locks haven't got that far yet. I spray Moose Milk down the barrel and let set about 5 min then run a patch down and the dirty Moose milk comes out the nipple hole. After that usually 4 patches and I'm done.
jreed10291974 Thanks for the comment! Sounds like a solid way to clean. I’ve done it that way myself and it works great!
Question1: Do I need to clean the percussion lock every few cleaning like the flint lock?
Question 2: For a percussion lock can you use the toothpick trick?
Hey Danny, not so important with a percussion lock but still give it a good wipe down each cleaning session. The toothpick is a bit small but I buy shishkabob skewers for my percussion guns. You can get a pack of 100 cheap from Walmart and cut them down and whittle them with your pocket knife so they plug your nipple. 👍🏻
also putting a dab of anti-size lubricant on the nipple threads is a very good idea.
Hot soapy water followed by a hot water rinse. The warmed barrel will accelerate evaporation. Dry it out and follow with a good gun oil inside and out.👍
I never thought using grease on outside my barrel. Iv all ways had issues with my 1861 springfield rusting because its not blued
Torry Good Hey Torry, thanks for the comment. RIG grease is best for that purpose but bear grease works well too on unfinished metal such as locks and barrels in the white.
@@BlackPowderTV i used to use oil but still ends up getting rust. I have to try grease see its any better.
Torry Good I use RIG grease under my barrel and only remove my barrels once a year. I rarely find rust. Give it a shot. Most gun stores carry it as does Amazon.
@@BlackPowderTV i just ordered it off Amazon thanks
Thanks for the lesson! 🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸
Thank you!
I hope I'm not driving you crazy yet but now that I have a place to get information a bunch of questions are coming to mind I have a custom made 4590 Flintlock I have never taken it apart as far as pulling the barrel from the stock I have taken the lock out I just watched your video on taking the barrel off of the stock. I have no clue as to which way my pins are driven in and whether or not they are tapered so I'm assuming I pick a side and just lightly tap I was wondering where do I get more pins how do I figure out how thick they are and where do I get more of them thank you for your time
Hello again. How important is it to have the ballistol and water mixture? Did you mix it yourself or did you buy it already premixed? I’m looking on Amazon for it and I’m not seeing anything that says wether it’s full strength or mixed.
Thanks for all the helpful videos!
Great question Crane. It only comes full strength. The instructions for mixing it is on the back. I like the spray bottle better than the aerosol. 👍🏻
@@BlackPowderTV thank you sir. Very much appreciated.
Question ? I'm using 777 if went hunting
And got a deer would It be ok to clean the gun the following day
My gun is a traditions Kentucky long rifle in .50 caliber
Any good books about cleaning and maintenance ?
I got that same range rod. Track of the Wolf?
Yes sir.
Great video
Thanks Mike!
Can this same cleaning process be applied to a Springfield Trapdoor? Obviously adapting it a bit.
Yes sir. Absolutely.
Do you ever use a brass bore brush??
Wait a minute. I don't have to actually milk a moose? I can just mix Ballistol and water? That will save me a lot of trouble!
🤣 Yes sir. The rut is an especially tough time of year to get a Moose to stand still for you!
@@BlackPowderTV You're telling ME!
Just be real sure it's a cow-moose you're dealing with.
That stuff that comes out of the bulls aint milk...
@@JV-mo3uo A quick online anatomy course should help you avoid any awkward encounters. 😉
HaHa! Good advice!
Hey, joking aside, great content on all these videos. Thanks for taking the time to create such good content and to share what you know with the rest of us!
You are better off using straight Ballistol to finish off lubing the inside of the bore. It doesn't go rancid or gum up like greases, especially animal fats.
Where did you get your bear gease? I was unable to find any?
What about the bare wood under the barrel and lock area? What coating is best for the barrel and lock?😳🤔
Ricky Burton Historically they weren’t stained or sealed but I will put a light coat or two of sealer in those areas on my guns. I grease the bottom of the barrel when I have it out once or twice a year.
What is keeping the patch on your jag when you are pulling the rod out of the bore? What if the patch comes off and gets stuck in the bore?
Hey Larry, the shape of the jag is keeping it on. If for some reason it comes off you need to have a 'tow worm' jag to get it out. It's a corkscrew and you put it down the bore and snags the patch and out it comes. Pretty rare for that to happen....
Nobody has ever answered this for me: at least some, but maybe not all, muzzleloaders have a breechplug that isn't completely flat across the face. At least some have a breechplug with a sub-caliber hole (a "powder chamber"?) centered in it. I have a Lyman Deerstalker that has this - I can see it with a borescope. Nobody ever mentions this in "how to clean" videos. Does that mean they're just getting clean enough without any special attention? Technically, the patches never go down into it unless you use a sub-caliber jag with a centering collar, and I've never seen anybody do that.
Hey JJ, every gun is different but if you plug the flash hole and fill the barrel with water, let it set for 5 mins and then pull the plug and let it drain through half of the water and then pour out the other half through the muzzle you should be just fine. I'd do that twice then load a dry patch to blow out the remainder of the water, use your bore cleaner on half dozen patches, then oil, you should be good to go....
I'm a little surprised you said to take the lock off.
I figured there was basically nothing that needed cleaning on a flintlock that couldn't be reached without disassembly.
Really interesting video on cleaning. I'm kinda new to blackpowder looking to get into flintlocks. But on a budget wondering if you've dun a video on what would be a good entry level flintlock rifle? Or any advice on what to buy. Thanks
Thanks Kevin! I haven't done that video but it's a great idea. I am happy to point you in the right direction. Email me at bob@blackpowdertv.om
Thanks!
After a hot long enjoyable day of competition I dont like the rush to have to do all that cleaning anymore,and I was thinking of getting s flintlock but it's more cleaning,I guess I'm getting old.
I can usually get it done in 15 mins. Try having the boys out and shooting 10 different of my black powder guns. By the time I’m done I don’t want to see a gun for a month....
Can you use a soft bristle brush to clean the lock instead of cloth?
Good stuff.. but two points.. carbon and sulphur residue is not water soluable.. you really need some detergent to shift it I would add a couple of drops of washing up liquid to the water. Ballistol moose milk is also excellent. Can I also give a shout out for Birchwood Casey Muzzle Magic which, if you dont' have access to water is very efficient.
Never put a dry patch down a muzzle loader unless you have a mirror like bore.. any pitting will grab a dry patch like a finger trap!
Be very careful to clean with a water based cleaner if you are using pyrodex. pyrodex has perchlorate in it and will rust your barrel. I reccomend a re-clean 24hrs later!
So where do you get this bear grease?
I used to clean mine in really hot water . Put it in the bathtub and soak it in hot soapy water. Then wire brush, patches and light oil . The hot water the barrel dried quickly. Why use hot water
Where do you buy the Bear Grease and what Brand is it?
What do you need to do to prep your cleaned and oiled gun to shoot again?
Carl Aldridge Great question. I run a few dry patches down the bore to remove any oil and blow out the touch hole, I use a bit of alcohol on the frizzen surface and flint so I have no issues with getting a good spark (or at least make sure it’s wiped off very well), I make sure the flint is sharp and held tight in the jaws, and make sure the pan is dry. That’s about it. I will wipe any excess oil off the outside as well so the gun isn’t slick.
@@BlackPowderTV Thank you.
@5:38 and earlier when it came time to spray a little you edited out the actual spraying? curious
Where did you get the water mixture ?
Can’t you just use ultrasonic for the small parts?
You sure can but it’s a bit overkill as they really don’t get that dirty. If you have one and do use it I’d just put the parts in the oven for a few to make sure they are dry and you’re good to go. 👍🏻
Water is the universal solvent.
Yes indeed. 👍🏻
Where did you purchase the metal range rod from? I've been looking for one
Trackofthewolf.com 👍🏻
What about cleaning a rusty barrel
Where did you get the range rod?
Trackofthewolf.com. They list it as their cleaning rod.
What were to commercial grease you had?
RIG grease.