The dizzy on the M103 is an absolute pain. Did you know that's the reason there's that bigger gap between two of the blades of clutch fan.... To give better access to the (specifically) bottom mounting hex bolt/screw. Also, the routing of the leads.... it's an art form, so satisfying when you master it!!!
I am still struck by how overlooked the insulation disc at the back of the distributor is. That thing has been bombarded by 40,000 volts for thirty years or more. They develop pin holes and cracks which causes shorting direct to the head. Often, as in my case, difficult to detect missing issues can be solved by the replacement of it. As well, you get a new rubber gasket which stops the humidity issues that plague the 103 and 104 engines. It should go like this now but in Australia, how would you ever know? ua-cam.com/video/Ea6-5B0d3rI/v-deo.html
distributor is not adjustable on these engines. Ignition timing is controlled by the EZL and its program memory is read only. You would need some after market ignition system to have control over ignition timings. There were however a few selectable ignition maps available in the EZL by way of changing a resistor value for dealing with low quality fuels.
I'd personally use an aviation grade ceramic compound. Or simply a ceramic CPU thermal paste. It is shock proof, but takes a few weeks to cure. Cheers!
For the EZL, have you considered using thermal pads instead of thermal paste? Been toying with the idea and there are some promising results from certain brands from PC reviewers online... Whats your take on it?
It definitely is a lot easier on M104. Just remove the plastic cover and access is very good. No fans in the way. But those Allen head bolts... strip one every time.
I did it to the rotor mounting bolts on my M103... the issue is doing them up too tight in the first place. Factory torque specs are very low for those components (as long as they're in place without risk of movement, you're all good). Same as the torque specs for the valve cover gasket on the M103, instinct says "if I do it up tight, it's got less chance of leaking" but it's a rubber gasket so if you tighten over the (from memory) 9nm you squish the gasket and actually create leaks.
@@mr.kaufman2970 don't know about motor mount bolts, but valve cover bolts on my M104 were tightened by hand, so they are tight. Sadly the gasket itself (Elring) failed after only 2 years and oil started to seap out. Quality products nowadays...
@@edvardsz3539 I was referring to the distributor & rotor mounting bolts, not motor mounts. Perhaps by hand wasn't quite tight enough, that's why it's always best to use a torque wrench.
@@mr.kaufman2970 Some recommend using Loctite. I did on mine (M104), then hand tightened with the wrench. Upon disassembly I found one of those three bolts completely loose, about to fall out.
It's a self answering question... Resistor type plugs have a specific level (i.e. 10k Ohms) of residence which regulates the amount of power that actually makes it to the spark end on the plug (if I'm wrong, please correct me because this is based on my own deductions) whereas the correct plugs for the M103 are no resistor type which means they have no inbuilt regulation of the amount of juice that makes it to the spark. Other components of the ignition system ensure the correct amount so using resistor type actually "muffles" the strength of the spark & so reduces the speed & quality of the burn etc.
@@athompson8976 The leads themselves are supposed to have a specified resistance. When their resistance is out of specification they can be the cause of slight misfire at idle.
Oh, yes. When I bought the Bosch cap for my 24v I thought at first it was a knockoff because of the same exact things you pointed. At the end of the day all that matters is performance and long time reliability, but yeah, not something one would expect at such pricepoint.
@@athompson8976 Can’t tell really, but I think it’s OEM. Still, only M104.980 and M104.990 had old style spark distributor. I believe all SsangYongs had the newer M104.992 (and variations) with HFM, much more common than the first two, as well as parts availability.
The reason that moisture and oil vapor enter the distributor cap is that the sealing ring behind the rotor of the camshaft is bad. Oil vapor is leaking down to the distributor cap. There is a simple and cheap solution. Originally there is 1 seal but there is room to mount 2 seals behind each other. The seal costs 15.00 euros at the dealer. I have already driven 90,000 km and there is no moisture and oil vapor in it at all. A new distributor cap and rotor is a temporary solution, moisture and oil vapor will return anyway. I also have pictures of it..
@@MMWA-DAVE That's why the engine runs well when it's cold. When the temperature rises, oil vapors and condensation form in the distributor cap. I myself also had to search for a long time with my 500sel, but this is the only reason. And drilling holes in a distributor cap is really not possible..
We have the same situation on the 500E M119, not sure how the condensation gets in, but drilling a small hole, 4 or 5mm between the terminals allows condensation and staticly change air to escape! Perfect
@@IronGiant007 this can be a failing crank position sensor. If its a siemens brand ezl these can also have the internal bonding wires break giving the exact symptoms mentioned. This is one of the few ezl faults that is repairable by specialists.
I bought mine here a few years ago: www.rmeuropean.com/Products/2023010093-MFG22-V2352.aspx Or you can use the part number as reference for search in another place
Always refreshing a young guy like Tim loves the W124!
The dizzy on the M103 is an absolute pain. Did you know that's the reason there's that bigger gap between two of the blades of clutch fan.... To give better access to the (specifically) bottom mounting hex bolt/screw.
Also, the routing of the leads.... it's an art form, so satisfying when you master it!!!
Such a clean and beautifully maintained W124. well done.
I am still struck by how overlooked the insulation disc at the back of the distributor is. That thing has been bombarded by 40,000 volts for thirty years or more. They develop pin holes and cracks which causes shorting direct to the head. Often, as in my case, difficult to detect missing issues can be solved by the replacement of it. As well, you get a new rubber gasket which stops the humidity issues that plague the 103 and 104 engines. It should go like this now but in Australia, how would you ever know? ua-cam.com/video/Ea6-5B0d3rI/v-deo.html
Super quick start at the end there - wish my M103 started like that...
Muy buen trabajo. No sabia lo de las bujias. Y qué preciosidad de 300E!!!
I would keep the old cap after some maintenance, as we never know how long it will be available...
what kind of heatsink compound did you use for the EZL?
Very well explained.
Can you tell me if it is possible to adjust the position of the distributor (the point of the advance) or if its fix?
distributor is not adjustable on these engines. Ignition timing is controlled by the EZL and its program memory is read only. You would need some after market ignition system to have control over ignition timings. There were however a few selectable ignition maps available in the EZL by way of changing a resistor value for dealing with low quality fuels.
Hi, what brand is the paste ? will any bran work? Thanks
head sink or heat sink???
I don't know what is the reason for replacing the cap and electric distributor?!!!
All the parts are New and genuine parts
i dont think the translation is working correctly. The parts replaced are OEM new and what was on there was original, old and worn,
hello what thermal paste reference did you use thank you
I'd personally use an aviation grade ceramic compound. Or simply a ceramic CPU thermal paste. It is shock proof, but takes a few weeks to cure. Cheers!
For the EZL, have you considered using thermal pads instead of thermal paste? Been toying with the idea and there are some promising results from certain brands from PC reviewers online... Whats your take on it?
yes definitely could work, probably better than the compound. as long as both surfaces are fastidiously clean and flat.
It definitely is a lot easier on M104. Just remove the plastic cover and access is very good. No fans in the way. But those Allen head bolts... strip one every time.
I did it to the rotor mounting bolts on my M103... the issue is doing them up too tight in the first place. Factory torque specs are very low for those components (as long as they're in place without risk of movement, you're all good). Same as the torque specs for the valve cover gasket on the M103, instinct says "if I do it up tight, it's got less chance of leaking" but it's a rubber gasket so if you tighten over the (from memory) 9nm you squish the gasket and actually create leaks.
@@mr.kaufman2970 don't know about motor mount bolts, but valve cover bolts on my M104 were tightened by hand, so they are tight. Sadly the gasket itself (Elring) failed after only 2 years and oil started to seap out. Quality products nowadays...
@@edvardsz3539 I was referring to the distributor & rotor mounting bolts, not motor mounts.
Perhaps by hand wasn't quite tight enough, that's why it's always best to use a torque wrench.
@@mr.kaufman2970 Some recommend using Loctite. I did on mine (M104), then hand tightened with the wrench.
Upon disassembly I found one of those three bolts completely loose, about to fall out.
Hi, guys! My m103 starts and runs smoothly but has no power and won't rev over 3000 rpm. Could the issue be in the ignition area?
I really want to know the difference between non resistance spark plugs and the other type
It's a self answering question... Resistor type plugs have a specific level (i.e. 10k Ohms) of residence which regulates the amount of power that actually makes it to the spark end on the plug (if I'm wrong, please correct me because this is based on my own deductions) whereas the correct plugs for the M103 are no resistor type which means they have no inbuilt regulation of the amount of juice that makes it to the spark. Other components of the ignition system ensure the correct amount so using resistor type actually "muffles" the strength of the spark & so reduces the speed & quality of the burn etc.
The HT leads on these cars already have the correct resistance (1k ohms I believe) and they do not require resistor spark plugs.
@@athompson8976 The leads themselves are supposed to have a specified resistance. When their resistance is out of specification they can be the cause of slight misfire at idle.
@@HTMLEXPis it the plug caps that have the resistance?
Oh, yes. When I bought the Bosch cap for my 24v I thought at first it was a knockoff because of the same exact things you pointed.
At the end of the day all that matters is performance and long time reliability, but yeah, not something one would expect at such pricepoint.
@@athompson8976 Can’t tell really, but I think it’s OEM.
Still, only M104.980 and M104.990 had old style spark distributor.
I believe all SsangYongs had the newer M104.992 (and variations) with HFM, much more common than the first two, as well as parts availability.
Speaking of price points, m103 caps were ~$1100 AUD at the dealer a couple of years back when I checked
Great video as always. Was interested to know, what does that vacuum connection to EZL do?
I think Beru is top notch quality vs. Bosch
Less rust in Australia, but more rodents.
congratulations!!
You need extra care when reassembling the cap to avoid damaging the center pin; not the end of the world as any vw pin will fit...
Been there! Haha. Snapped it right off on the rotor!
@@vdub6161 😂😂
The reason that moisture and oil vapor enter the distributor cap is that the sealing ring behind the rotor of the camshaft is bad. Oil vapor is leaking down to the distributor cap. There is a simple and cheap solution. Originally there is 1 seal but there is room to mount 2 seals behind each other. The seal costs 15.00 euros at the dealer. I have already driven 90,000 km and there is no moisture and oil vapor in it at all. A new distributor cap and rotor is a temporary solution, moisture and oil vapor will return anyway. I also have pictures of it..
interesting- never heard of this solution before
@@MMWA-DAVE That's why the engine runs well when it's cold. When the temperature rises, oil vapors and condensation form in the distributor cap. I myself also had to search for a long time with my 500sel, but this is the only reason. And drilling holes in a distributor cap is really not possible..
We have the same situation on the 500E M119, not sure how the condensation gets in, but drilling a small hole, 4 or 5mm between the terminals allows condensation and staticly change air to escape! Perfect
where does the bing orange oring go?
Goes on behind or before the rotor arm, in the bottom of the housing
If the heatsink paste is gone at the 3min mark. What would the symptoms be?
you will end up with a dead ezl if it cannot transfer its heat to the body of the car.
@@MMWA-DAVE Thanks for the response. The car runs great till it gets to temperature. Then it sometimes dies and won't start again until cold
@@IronGiant007 this can be a failing crank position sensor. If its a siemens brand ezl these can also have the internal bonding wires break giving the exact symptoms mentioned. This is one of the few ezl faults that is repairable by specialists.
the front looks low, have you checked your shocks?!!
That's what I was thinking. They are probably original, sunken down but not broken.
How much were the parts please?
Under 300 euros from Mercedes?
Where did you get the clip for the accelerator cable? Mine is siliconed together currently
I bought mine here a few years ago: www.rmeuropean.com/Products/2023010093-MFG22-V2352.aspx Or you can use the part number as reference for search in another place