IMPORTANT Maintanence for the BMW N54 Engine (Upgraded Vacuum Lines)
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- Опубліковано 21 сер 2024
- The N54 is notorious for having maintenance issues and one of the worst things is the 30FF low boost code if you own one of these cars you've probably experienced this code. One way to ensure that you don't experience this code is to upgrade your vacuum lines from the stock rubber and braided line to high temperature vacuum lines. I went with the Verocious Motorsorts platinum cured silicone vacuum lines rated for temperatures between -65F and 400F. They have "heavy duty wall thickness" with a 2.5 mm wall size. Overall these represent a significant upgrade over stock. To do the entire care you will need at least 15 feet do not make the mistake I did and only order 13 feet. You will have to make a second order if you do.
Link to Verocious Motorsports Vacuum Lines
goo.gl/jasEmv
Lol ..”and we all know n54s have issues ...all the time”. Fasho 🙄🤑🏃♂️. Nice vid man..I just did this thx
Speak for yourself
Did this three years ago and still going strong. This should be the first upgrade. Then you can do intake, downpipe, intercooler, charge pipe and BOV.
N54 is not as horrible as N55 when it comes to boost leaks.
is it okay to do just the intake first anyways then do Vacuum lines? lol
@@farrukhdada6688 - Nope. That's useless.
@@matreyia hmm.. Why is that?
@@farrukhdada6688 - Power loss from leaks is greater than any gains from intake. Therefore, you make sure no leaks, first. That alone will return more power to your car than ANY intake no matter how expensive.
yea no leaks here all good!
You could have just taken one pic of your engine bay with the BLUE vacuum lines and not said a word and that would have been GOLD. I'm pretty sure if I open my hood right now my lines will be virtually invisible. I've definitely got a leak somewhere, so this is going to be my first try. Thanks for the vid!
Just ordered these! 17T's are on the way as well.
China turbos bud ?
I’m on about getting these instead of repairing my waste gates same work seems involved when I can just replace turbos.
@@jamesdearie2689 yup, china turbskis. 17T's from VIV auto on ebay. So far so good. Can't tell if there's WG rattle when cruising but sometimes the turbos make a repeated fluttering noise if I'm cruising at 2k... Also, the car will get 2x louder when driving, it's like the boost pressure let's go or something with the WG's let's go and the car sounds as if it's N/A for a little. Once I step on it, the WG's close or something and I start to build boost again. Could be tune related but I was also told it could be due to faulty vacuum canisters. I replaced one during the turbo install as I was told it was bad but I should have replaced the other as well. Overall, I give them a 8/10. Sound great with relocated inlets/outlets
@@apatinoracing how much power?
@@KingENDLESS haven’t dyno’d it but I’m FBO. It feels quick, that’s for sure.
1:40 damn broo you got upgraded pool noodles that thing must be maxed power wise damn dude.
"oh. I didn't realize that's not in there.. I gotta put that in"... LAUGHING MY ASS OFF..
The little section you mention not knowing what it is and said maybe it's for the brake or something. It's just for your exhaust flap man .
Nice diy, in the description you said you have 2.5mm hose. Did you mean 3.5? .I just ordered 15 feet of 3.5mm and a new rb turbo PCV since I just got my walnut blast done.
Yes I meant 3.5 I’ll have to fix that!
@@BMWE90HQ Hey man, will 3mm hose fit too? i cant seem to get 3,5mm hose in germany...
@@Justinsanesht No you need 3.5mm inner diameter, or else they won't fit the nipples. You can order from Amazon Deutschland www.amazon.de/dp/B01AUSSBI4/ref=cm_sw_r_tw_dp_U_x_cJoYCbQ6AWR8E
@@Justinsanesht Do 4mm way better fit and get thickwall ones that are silicon
@@BMWE90HQhey man. The part I really needed help with was how to access the rear turbo. You started to talk about it but the missing part on the cowel I guess tripped you up. How do you do the rearward line?
why you leave the engine cover off? my car sounds horrible without engine cover and hood open on cold start for 30 seconds. scraping and ticking noise very loud.
It’s off because I installed an oil catch can and I have to trim the back of the cover to make it fit back on. So I’ll probably be doing that next weekend so I can get it back on. Right now it’s in my trunk
What model is your car 328i or 335i?
Bmw cars in general are rather shite I
@@BMWE90HQ 2009 e90 335i
Wastegate rattle?
-11 it’s supposed to be -20-21 vaccum for every engine.
It varies from 10-22 depending on sea level and a lot of other shit. There’s no way every single engine has a generic vacuum amount
"Negative boost"...so vacuum?
Yeah but it’s displayed as negative boost on the MHD app.
Funniest thing is... They are run off a vacuum pump, so they are always under negative pressure at all times.
It only has 3.5 mm on the sight
Thank you 🙏
I got the front turbo in like 5 minutes. What was so hard?
Looks good 😎
Appreciate it!
Where can I get a walkthrough of what each vacuum line goes to?
Use your eyes and brain its not that hard bud
I'd like to know too... great question... Where can we get a walkthrough of where each vacuum line goes to?
The vacc line that goes to the rear turbo. You said it's easy and doesn't need cowl removed ?? I done all mine except that one I can't get near it even with cowl removed
Someone once told me why BMW vacuum lines are so bad is it is made to decompose. For recycling. Laws over on the side of the word I guess.
Can anyone of these hoses be used to siphon some intake valve cleaner?
How the hell do you reach the waste gate lines? You just stuck your arm in there? Did you remove the boost solenoids or anything?
Just stick your arm down there and feel around. It’s a pain but it can be done.
@@BMWE90HQ I was able to get it off but after about an hour of trying to get it back on- I had my girlfriend put her skinny arm in there and she put it on in 3 seconds lol 😂 thank you! My arm was just a little too big to fit
@@mcdoob it took me like an hour to get that front one lol
Literally spent an hour trying to do the waste gate line yesterday. I recommend trying to keep one hand on it while you remove the original so you don’t lose where it is.
Tips for front wastegate line? I'm struggling
It is very difficult the only tip I can really offer is persistence. You kind of need to go in forearm facings the engine and away from you if you are standing on the passenger side. But that is by far the hardest part of this. Also try using your phone as a camera with the flash on to find it then watch the video you took and try to mimic that.
I just added the Vader Solutions BOV Adapter with the 1/4 hose to the Tial BOV. The upgrade yielded even more vacuum pressure and I had to increase my BOV spring to 11 in/hg from 9 previously. I noticed substantial improvement in power stability and throttle response so I decided to upgrade and order the Stett Stainless Steel vacuum canisters...should be arriving in a few weeks. Will update with any news.
Please do update I’m curious to hear the results of them!
Now have the Stett steel canisters. Now I don't have to worry about that being a weak link among the myriad links in the N54 system. Improvements were, even more response from throttle input. The canisters contain a vacuum reservoir so that on unpredictable throttle use, there is always vacuum available to speed up turbo response.
Some folks delete the canisters completely with no ill effects, but, they forego the backup vacuum pressure necessary when they use the throttle unpredictably.
Thank you for the update!!
Where can you find the canisters in stock??
@@patrickm2601 - Unfortunately they do not exist anymore.
If I wanted to order this . What size would i get for everything and how many
Save Ferris!
How much quantity did you buy ?
Where can I get all this vacumm lines? I replaced the starter today and now I feel the car run with less boost (less acceleration than last week). Issue starts now after I replaced the starter; so I can assume I can have a loose vacumm line or a broken line; also on the panel I see a yellow warning' according to the code its the "Engine Problem/Loss of Power). That didnt happened before I replacing the starter.
The link is in the description.
You definitely have a boost leak
I fixed it. There was a loose screw in the charge pipe! I forgot to tighten up. All working fine and 2 months later I have another leak boost. Cant still find it.
@@nelsonjgonzalez8843 use a smoke machine
@@Purpz710 its a weird sound when I accelerate. Still pinpoint where is it. Cant accelerate too much; otherwise the leak weird sounds are louder. Im afraid if its a bad turbo.
did you say bad kuntent?
Is he high?
Yes, high on meth
How much foot did you buy
Are all the line accessible from the top?
Yes they are!
Will I be ok if I buy a 4mm vacuum line?
I would check on the forums I really don’t know.
Yes 4mm is fine, I replaced all of mine with blue 4mm silicon vacuum hoses
TBH it actually fits better and will have better vacuum flow
@@phoenixlounge7656 thanks for the confirmation!
Can you use 4mm on all of them?
Probably I’ve heard of people overseas doing that where 3.5 is hard to find.
Sure can, 4mm is actually perfect...
What mm did you use?
3.5 mm
I did this and it made my car slower lmaoooo took off original tubes replaced with 3 m and cars running like shit over sum like tht
You did it wrong then lol you really think upgraded vacc lines guna make your car slower ? Dumbass 😂