Hi Derek, another great video. Loving the jugs content as always. Discoverys are sent to test people's knowledge. I've been chasing notchy steering on mine for the past two months in-between getting a patch welded on drivers wheel arch. Replaced the power steering pump, as I though that was faulty due to noise. Turned out to be the steering UJ from the steering box back to the colum. Cost £15 to replace and a few hours work. 🎉🎉🎉🎉 Keep up the great work and hope that Freda is Keeping you busy with jobs 😉 and plenty tea and cake
Just changed my ride-height sensors. It might be worth pointing out that LR should be congratulated for designing the sensors so the bolts screw THROUGH the bracket and into the sensor, itself. Least, that way, if you shear off a bolt while removing the sensor the sheared bolt is stuck in the sensor - which you're replacing - rather than leaving you with a sheared bolt that needs removing before you can fit a new sensor. I wonder whether the designer consciously realised that was a good idea, or whether it just got designed that way by accident?
I think it was probably a happy mistake! Did you get OE or ebay? When I changed mine, the ride height was all over the place. Had to get a nice chap with a Nanocom to sort it.
@@sleepycatpictures1176 ebay, I'm afraid. Just plugged them in and hoped for the best. I notice that on one side the sensor-arm is parallel to to radius arm but on the other side it's not. Despite this, somehow, when I measure from the wheelarch to the floor the height's the same both sides. Honestly, the brackets are rusted to the point where they're like tinfoil, and one of them looks twisted. Looking at the old sensors, one of them looks fairly reasonable whereas the other one looks like it was recovered from the Titanic. My guess would be that a previous owner has had issues, replaced one sensor, found that the vehicle didn't sit level and then just twisted the bracket to suit. I plan to make a pair of new brackets out of 2mm angle-iron, lop the existing brackets off and weld the new ones to the chassis... after some careful measuring. I can fit the new brackets "sideways", so they get welded to the side of the chassis leg (where the metal's more likely to be good) and that should also mean that muck won't be able to collect around the sensors in future.
@sleepycatpictures1176 FWIW, I'd suggest giving connectors a good blast of brake cleaner BEFORE unplugging them to get all the muck out of the latches.... and again after they're unplugged.
Hi Derek, If you,ve disconected the battery BEFORE unpluging the RHS you will not loose any settings in the SLABS. You will need someone with a Nanocom or similar to now reset the height but I don't understand why it's altered. Sorry I'm too far away to help.
You MIGHT be able to set the ride-height by adjusting the length of the connecting rod on the sensor.... if the connecting rod can be adjusted. Loosen the bottom bolt, unhook the connecting rod and then manually move the sensor arm up & down (with the engine running) to see if you can get the body to sit level. If that works, adjust the connecting rod so it's the required length and then re-attach it to the bottom bolt. I suspect that isn't the "correct" way to do it, and I'm not sure all connecting rods ARE adjustable, but mine had a couple of threads showing at the bottom, which made me realise they could be adjusted (and somebody had done it before me?), so that's what I did after I fitted my new air-springs a few months ago. Technically, this ISN'T the "right" way to do it because you're altering the relationship between the trailing-arm and the sensor-arm but it should be okay as long as you only have to adjust the length by a couple of mm. Thinking about it, when I replaced my air-springs, I noticed the car had different (no-name brand) air-springs on either side. When I adjusted the connecting rod I had to shorten it, thus "tightening" the bottom link, so the exposed threads weren't visible any more. I wonder if the previous owner had fitted one air-spring, realised it didn't match the other one properly and then adjusted the connecting rod to compensate for that? When I fitted a pair of new air-springs, I suspect I might've been adjusting the sensor connecting rod back to where it originally was.
Part of being an owner is the detective work involved in trying to figure out what the previous guy did! Fun isn't it? Mine was 5cms out! Looked ridiculous. Anyway, ride height is sorted thanks to a nice man with a Nanocom (gotta get one of them). However, turns out that that was not the problem. Jugs is having his bottom welded and when he returns, I'll then have to change the airbags . . .
Hi Derek, another great video. Loving the jugs content as always. Discoverys are sent to test people's knowledge. I've been chasing notchy steering on mine for the past two months in-between getting a patch welded on drivers wheel arch. Replaced the power steering pump, as I though that was faulty due to noise. Turned out to be the steering UJ from the steering box back to the colum. Cost £15 to replace and a few hours work. 🎉🎉🎉🎉
Keep up the great work and hope that Freda is Keeping you busy with jobs 😉 and plenty tea and cake
I was going to suggest the steering UJ but you beat me to it. Lollopy was like that. I just kept spraying it with spray grease!
Just changed my ride-height sensors.
It might be worth pointing out that LR should be congratulated for designing the sensors so the bolts screw THROUGH the bracket and into the sensor, itself.
Least, that way, if you shear off a bolt while removing the sensor the sheared bolt is stuck in the sensor - which you're replacing - rather than leaving you with a sheared bolt that needs removing before you can fit a new sensor.
I wonder whether the designer consciously realised that was a good idea, or whether it just got designed that way by accident?
I think it was probably a happy mistake! Did you get OE or ebay? When I changed mine, the ride height was all over the place. Had to get a nice chap with a Nanocom to sort it.
@@sleepycatpictures1176 ebay, I'm afraid. Just plugged them in and hoped for the best.
I notice that on one side the sensor-arm is parallel to to radius arm but on the other side it's not.
Despite this, somehow, when I measure from the wheelarch to the floor the height's the same both sides.
Honestly, the brackets are rusted to the point where they're like tinfoil, and one of them looks twisted.
Looking at the old sensors, one of them looks fairly reasonable whereas the other one looks like it was recovered from the Titanic.
My guess would be that a previous owner has had issues, replaced one sensor, found that the vehicle didn't sit level and then just twisted the bracket to suit.
I plan to make a pair of new brackets out of 2mm angle-iron, lop the existing brackets off and weld the new ones to the chassis... after some careful measuring.
I can fit the new brackets "sideways", so they get welded to the side of the chassis leg (where the metal's more likely to be good) and that should also mean that muck won't be able to collect around the sensors in future.
@@SiCrewe Quite lucky then, good. Good idea for the brackets too.
I always use de-oxit spray on old connectors before I put them back together you should give it a try mate
I'll have to get some of that. I usually just blast some WD40 in!
@sleepycatpictures1176 FWIW, I'd suggest giving connectors a good blast of brake cleaner BEFORE unplugging them to get all the muck out of the latches.... and again after they're unplugged.
@@SiCrewe Yes, that would have been a good idea. The latches broke anyway. Things are getting fragile.
Hi Derek, If you,ve disconected the battery BEFORE unpluging the RHS you will not loose any settings in the SLABS. You will need someone with a Nanocom or similar to now reset the height but I don't understand why it's altered. Sorry I'm too far away to help.
Thank you, but it's okay. My welder chappie has access to a Nanocom. So that is sorted. Insider tip : it was not the sensor letting the car down!
You MIGHT be able to set the ride-height by adjusting the length of the connecting rod on the sensor.... if the connecting rod can be adjusted.
Loosen the bottom bolt, unhook the connecting rod and then manually move the sensor arm up & down (with the engine running) to see if you can get the body to sit level.
If that works, adjust the connecting rod so it's the required length and then re-attach it to the bottom bolt.
I suspect that isn't the "correct" way to do it, and I'm not sure all connecting rods ARE adjustable, but mine had a couple of threads showing at the bottom, which made me realise they could be adjusted (and somebody had done it before me?), so that's what I did after I fitted my new air-springs a few months ago.
Technically, this ISN'T the "right" way to do it because you're altering the relationship between the trailing-arm and the sensor-arm but it should be okay as long as you only have to adjust the length by a couple of mm.
Thinking about it, when I replaced my air-springs, I noticed the car had different (no-name brand) air-springs on either side.
When I adjusted the connecting rod I had to shorten it, thus "tightening" the bottom link, so the exposed threads weren't visible any more.
I wonder if the previous owner had fitted one air-spring, realised it didn't match the other one properly and then adjusted the connecting rod to compensate for that?
When I fitted a pair of new air-springs, I suspect I might've been adjusting the sensor connecting rod back to where it originally was.
Part of being an owner is the detective work involved in trying to figure out what the previous guy did! Fun isn't it? Mine was 5cms out! Looked ridiculous. Anyway, ride height is sorted thanks to a nice man with a Nanocom (gotta get one of them). However, turns out that that was not the problem. Jugs is having his bottom welded and when he returns, I'll then have to change the airbags . . .
Hi Derek, i have the same problem with my d2. Did you solve the problem?
Yes, I had to change the rear air suspension airbags. Been okay since, well it has not gone down!