Being a licensed plumber, I changed mine every three years. The water heater was 30 years old and excellent condition until I sold the house and the new owner wanted a new water heater which I could understand I wrote everything on the side of the water heater jacket that I did
Another thing to mention, if you can’t get a long rod in like in my situation, the water heater is in a closet under stairs with not much clearance, you can get a rod that’s sausage linked together and just drop it in.
homeowners should also be aware to check your water heaters tags after a plumber or serviceman has been in your home. mostly if its someone you haven't used before or don't know. there's a scam where they remove the serial number sticker off the heater. if the heater is still in warranty they can use the tag to get a new heater for free. (minus a warranty processing fee.) they claim that heater leaks. most water heater manufacturers don't want the whole heater back. just the tag. now when your water heater actually leaks you won't have the tag and manufacturer won't replace your heater. I'm not saying this guy has ever done that. if he's honest like I believe he'll admit to having seen the problem. I've been in plumbing/hvac wholesale business since '85. so I've seen it all.
Thanks for the tip! I have a 27mm impact socket from working on my car. An impact gun is an absolute must! I recommend hearing protection, too... which I forgot. It took a while to get mine to come out. This is after I had drained a few gallons, but still got sprayed from pressure in the tank. Reversed the impact as fast as I could. LOL. Draining more water... this tank is 23 years old and I'm not about to replace it for new junk if I can help it.
He doesn’t say to drain the tank only shut off water and gas then open a hot water faucet to relieve pressure. Assuming the closest hot water faucet to the tank. I have some old tanks as well did you get your done without issue? How bad was your rod? Did you get the recommended rod from video? Cheers
Typically water heaters last about 10-15 years. Your 23 year old water heater WILL leak eventually. It has to do with your 1. Water quality, 2. type and age of your pipes. Nothing lasts forever. Also, pro tip here. Do NOT buy your water heater from HOME DEPOT or LOWES, they have decent water heaters, that have plastic in them, the plumbing parts store will sell you one with Brass fittings, this matters on the age your water heater will die at also. Big box store water heaters ARE inferior.
Beg to differ. I have half dozen 20V impact drivers over 250ft lbs torque. My largest does >850ft lbs torque. It can sheer a lug nut off my full size truck. Amd it's not that big. New technology is 😎👍
I beg to differ. You ever used one of them 3/4 Hercules from harbor freight. My man that thing puts our way more then any ano rod or breaker bar can do not to mention the space and leverage you need to use a breaker bar. Keep it simple.
It was actually the other way around. Where the master only shared the knowledge with his journeyman and the journeyman would travel to share and learn more from other masters... hence the name journeyman!
Two years ago, I pulled out the anode rod in my 2006 water heater and it looked just like the replacement I bought. It looked new. So I put the old one back in and will check it again in another 10 years. Water heaters here last seemingly forever. Previous to this one, I had a 1983 water heater and replaced one element. That was it. Never even looked at the anode rod.
It is a sacrificial anode. This will be consumed instead of the metal that makes up the tank. Check it every 2-4 years, depending on water content and usage. The material, aluminum or magnesium, can conflict with some water, check/research what works for you.
The principal at play here is galvanic corrosion cells. In industrial applications, the career field is called cathodic protection. The same principles that protect over 700,000 miles of underground pipelines in the US also apply to each and every water heater tank. Science is fun.
Sacrificial anodes 101: they’re supposed to corrode before critical components, so don’t expect one to never need replacing. If it never needs replacing, it’s not doing its job, and expensive components are absolutely suffering.
Thanks for the Tip. My fathers electric bill sky rocketed last few months and He suspects the Electric water htr is the culprit due to the water being super Hot lately...
Another good tip: if you don't have the 1 1/16 socket, you can go rent (for free) a axle nut socket set from any chain parts store. A 27mm is equivalent. This socket set is also useful for removing a electric hot water heater heating element. Especially if it's seated in there real BAD
@@pv2smurf My time to walk in and out of the parts store is worth more than the socket. If you value your time so little and live close to the store, maybe you could justify renting.
I've done hundreds over the years and finally i got one i could not get. Tried everything. Including a breaker bar and cheater bar. I couldn't get anyone strong enough to hold the water heater. Something was gonna break, and it was me. Just went and got another one. Pulled and replace the rod before i filled it..
I personally found the breaker bar not helpful because the hot water heater unit itself starts twisting from the wall, I then went and bought myself an impact wrench and it worked, I almost gave up!🎉
I prefer to leave pressure on the tank and play a game of “how badly will I get scalded….” But on a serious note, I’ve been seeing these powered anode rods being used a lot more lately. If money was not an issue, would it make sense to install a powered rod on a brand new heater that still has a good factory rod. Just thinking about things that could make a water heater last 20 years (or more).
I’d replace at half the warranty. That way you can see how much it’s used up and if you don’t like the electric one you know when to replace a regular rod.
Personally, I would just replace the water heater once the tank leaks. Replacing anode will extend life of the tank, but everything else will still be old. Since I can replace water heater myself, replacing water heater after 10 or so years is not a big problem. With more expensive water heaters like direct vent or power vent, replacing anode might be worth it. Also, don't forget to flush water heater regularly.
I spayed rust buster and let it sit overnight before using impact wrench 27mm after draining and opening hot water tap to release pressure to drain sediments out.
If the breaker bar won't cut it then the impact won't cut it lmao. However i think he probably means, you'll be twisting the whole tank with the breaker bar. Whereas the impact just hammer it out without disrupting the tank.
Corro-Protec box is printed w/ 20 yr warranty , i am curious as to it's cost vs standard Mg or Al rod....plus not every water heater has an electrical outlet close-by! Cheers
Working solo most of the time I have a couple Rigid Impact Drivers that do most of that type work and a Rigid 1/2” Impact Wrench that hasn’t met a bolt/nut it can’t back out or one it can’t drive when I need that level of HD power and torque; re a water heater, if I can’t break an anode loose with a short extension handle socket I won’t risk the possible damage of using a longer handle/bar - the cost of re-plumbing a “jilted” water heater and PO’ed home owner just isn’t worth it. Good info!🙏
Relieve pressure AND drain system below the level of the top of the water heater. Good time to check it is when you're also working on a water heater flush.
I like the anode rod but most of my customers don't have power close or can't afford it. Great video and I am a licensed plumber in Texas,where are you located.😊
If you're in a well expect more frequently could be months if u have city of chicago water from lake Michigan like we're blessed to have here you will probably never have to replace it.
You need a impact wrench or because I use to replace them in marine applications situations you get a punch and a hammer you tap it for few minutes *TAP IT do not swing with all your force or half your force* Now if the bolt is fucked drill it out and if you do that you have to do a lot of extra work to get all the metal shaving out if your using a vacuum or get extractor socket gear wrench sells some I don’t remember if they go super big they should
@@infernoeagles5812 I'll give it another go, I've used an impact and all it really seemed to be good at is wanting to spin the water heater... even when full. I'll try the punch, and give it another go, thanks.
An impact is the only way but if it still doesn’t work leave it and remove the nipple and get one designed to go in there. It’s much easier and if there’s any left on the old one now you have extra anode.
More like if you can't get it with a breaker bar, Go get a cheater bar. Don't get an impact wrench, you can remove the head and still leave the anode inside.
That's exactly what happened to me this past summer. Once it broke off, I decided it was time to buy a new water heater. After I installed the new one, I cut open my old tank and it became obvious that I had made the right decision.
My hot water tank lasted 27 years before it started to leak. On my new tank which is 1.5 years old can't remove the anode rod. I tried breaker bar and air impact gun. At this point before I break anything i gave up on power anode rod. Perhaps 25years from now ill replace it before I install tank.
as a diy guy I can honestly say staying away from 12point sockets and then showing your impact is why you have rounded bolts off if you just use had tools instead of using a impact all you need is a ¾ inch drive breaker bar or socket wrench but they are extremely expensive all you have to have is a socket ¾inch drive socket wrench and sockets a set from harbor freight is a good choice or you can always check you local pawn shops for cheaper tools that bolt head is probably a 31mm or 32mm or 1 n ¹16 or 1 n ¼ sockets 32mm will work just finding a 32mm is hard i should know because im used to turning wrenches on mine and everyone vehicles
Uhhh, if you can't get it out with a breaker bar, you need to attach a pipe to your breaker bar and branch out a bit farther for more leverage. Using an impact should be your first choice but if that doesn't work, breaker bar will pretty much be your only choice.
I just bought a new water heater. Maybe I should just go ahead and get one of those powered anode rods since removing the old one will never be easier than right now.
I installed my own water heater at my house, it's an electric water heater and it was super easy to replace, but other than that i don't know a damn thing about water heaters, can someone please explain what the rod does and why you would want to replace it? I know the water heater i installed is apparently only good for like 6-7 years, but i do flush them out once a year as i learned it's a good idea to do so to extend the life of your water heater, we got right around 8 years outta the first one i installed when we bought our home, and I just had to replace it again a few months ago. Super easy to replace an electric water heater, it's just 3 wires, the hardest things about it is having the ability to solder the new pipes to tie the new water heater back into the existing potable water supply, other than that tho, piece of cake
I have experience with DIY electric water heater work: changing elements and thermostats, and flushing. But on my last heater I did all that and it would still run out of hot water strangely fast. I wonder if the problem could’ve been this anode rod 🤔
No, the anode protects the tank. It won’t affect how long the temp lasts. Could be a burnt out element, a leak somewhere on the hot waterline waisting the water, or too much buildup in the tank lowering volume.
I would use an impact driver. If your water heater is older the vibration will break lime, rust, and other stuff loose in the tank and it can plug your waterlines and cause alot of other problems. So in my opinion i would use a larger breaker bar first and only use an imact gun as a very last resort.
I replaced the heater that had the magnesium anode on it. There was no anode on the new heater, and I couldn't buy it anywhere separately. The boiler is already 8 years old. Rust can already be seen on the water heating pipes from the central heating. I thought that the heating pipes were made of copper and that there could be no mixing of water from the heating system...
Just like Magnesium will sacrifice itself to protect the Steel, the Steel will sacrifice itself to protect the copper. It's best to ensure there are no metallic connections between dissimilar metals.
A water softener does away with a lot of these issues. Had a water heater last about 25 years without changing the anode rod. It never leaked, just wasn't heating well anymore
@@ColeSpolaric we have very hard water. (Lots of calcium and magnesium) It causes scale buildup and destroys the plumbing. Most homes need/have a water softener.
Unfortunately there's no window to peek at it so you need to physically inspect it. How long an anode rod will last is highly dependent on the water at each house. Mine looked pretty good even after 4 years. My neighbor, whose well is not as deep, only gets 1-2 years.
6 Pt sockets are ALWAYS better when they are an option. Hmmm, never heard of an electric rod, they don't "dissolve" or wear out? Sounds like a cool option if they aren't terribly more expensive, assuming there's an available outlet.
Mine is really stuck in there. Used a 1 1/16 6 point socket. My big 1,600lb ft of torque couldn’t get it, my big 1/2 breaker bar couldn’t get it, and my Cornwell 1/2 air impact gun couldn’t get it. Also, now it’s stripped sooo I have no idea what to do besides buying a big extractor now 🙂
There are so many videos of people changing out the anode rod but there's almost no videos at all changing out the inlet and Outlet pipes the cold water in the hot water if anybody find a video of that send me the link
I tried that the first time I replaced the one at my current home. Moved the whole unit. Grabbed my impact and part of the sacrificial material fell to the bottom of the tank. New rod went in and things are still good five years later.🤞
The impact driver is highly un-recommend- ripping, tears, breaks, micro fractures and more are amongst the few that can destroy the tank from using one.. even brand new ones can be damaged.. breaker bars are the way to go!!
Seriously I have never ever heard of anyone doing this Is this actually something that's regularly done I mean I work in maintenance and facility support and we've never replaced one of these things We replaced the entire unit usually it's 20 years old but I literally have never ever seen anyone replacement of these things before Is this something that's regularly done serious question ....Thanks😊
In my experience , when you cant break it loose with an impact driver then you go to the breaker bar.
Yeah sounds he just couldn’t cut it not the tool
Another of times it's the opposite. You can twist off a bolt with a breaker bar that will come right out with a impact
😂😂😂
Especially sense the impact he had in the videos is weak af
He’s a plumber
Being a licensed plumber, I changed mine every three years. The water heater was 30 years old and excellent condition until I sold the house and the new owner wanted a new water heater which I could understand I wrote everything on the side of the water heater jacket that I did
Another thing to mention, if you can’t get a long rod in like in my situation, the water heater is in a closet under stairs with not much clearance, you can get a rod that’s sausage linked together and just drop it in.
Ahhhhh thank you so much. That’s my exact issue
That's incredibly good to know. Thank you.
Thx!
I thought it was your wife that couldn't get a long rod in her situation
You just gave me "anode rod envy!" 😳
homeowners should also be aware to check your water heaters tags after a plumber or serviceman has been in your home. mostly if its someone you haven't used before or don't know. there's a scam where they remove the
serial number sticker off the heater. if the heater is still in warranty they can use the tag to get a new heater for free. (minus a warranty processing fee.) they claim that heater leaks. most water heater manufacturers don't want the whole heater back. just the tag. now when your water heater actually leaks you won't have the tag and manufacturer won't replace your heater. I'm not saying this guy has ever done that. if he's honest like I believe he'll admit to having seen the problem. I've been in plumbing/hvac wholesale business since '85. so I've seen it all.
A breaker bar with 450ft of pipe would do just fine
😂😂😂😂
The heater will spin
Thanks for the tip! I have a 27mm impact socket from working on my car. An impact gun is an absolute must! I recommend hearing protection, too... which I forgot. It took a while to get mine to come out. This is after I had drained a few gallons, but still got sprayed from pressure in the tank. Reversed the impact as fast as I could. LOL. Draining more water... this tank is 23 years old and I'm not about to replace it for new junk if I can help it.
He doesn’t say to drain the tank only shut off water and gas then open a hot water faucet to relieve pressure. Assuming the closest hot water faucet to the tank. I have some old tanks as well did you get your done without issue? How bad was your rod? Did you get the recommended rod from video? Cheers
23 years and don't want to replace it? How long do these last?
Typically water heaters last about 10-15 years. Your 23 year old water heater WILL leak eventually. It has to do with your 1. Water quality, 2. type and age of your pipes. Nothing lasts forever.
Also, pro tip here. Do NOT buy your water heater from HOME DEPOT or LOWES, they have decent water heaters, that have plastic in them, the plumbing parts store will sell you one with Brass fittings, this matters on the age your water heater will die at also. Big box store water heaters ARE inferior.
What if you purchase the Platinum and Platinum Plus ones at home depot, I heard they have brass fittings. ? @@augustwest9727
As a mechanic of many years an impact wrench does not have as much torque as a good breaker bar would.
Beg to differ. I have half dozen 20V impact drivers over 250ft lbs torque. My largest does >850ft lbs torque. It can sheer a lug nut off my full size truck. Amd it's not that big. New technology is 😎👍
That's what I used a breaker bar and a hardened steel socket shallow
Ah, but with a breaker bar the water heater needs to be solidly braced or the whole water heater may turn. With an impact wrench that doesn’t matter.
You have any of the brand new name brand battery 1/2” or 1” impacts? 1/4” isn’t good for anything other than screws lol
I beg to differ. You ever used one of them 3/4 Hercules from harbor freight. My man that thing puts our way more then any ano rod or breaker bar can do not to mention the space and leverage you need to use a breaker bar. Keep it simple.
A journeyman plies his craft with skill. A Master Craftsman shares his knowledge.
It was actually the other way around. Where the master only shared the knowledge with his journeyman and the journeyman would travel to share and learn more from other masters... hence the name journeyman!
Saying you’re a licensed plumber isn’t gonna make anyone believe you more
A Realman doesn't read the instructions or listen to anyone.
I like how you break it down for simple home gamers. Its a great thing imo
Two years ago, I pulled out the anode rod in my 2006 water heater and it looked just like the replacement I bought. It looked new. So I put the old one back in and will check it again in another 10 years. Water heaters here last seemingly forever. Previous to this one, I had a 1983 water heater and replaced one element. That was it. Never even looked at the anode rod.
The tanks last 8-10 years in my area 😅
@@theplumbersplungerare anode rods used or needed in "gas" water heaters?
@@1truthseeking8yes they are used in gas heaters.
Their job is to sacrifice themselves instead of the tank.
Love your videos bud!! Always teaching me
The thing with the impact... The vibrations it causes can crack or break the glass liner in the tank.
Because of you i now know they have glass or cermaic or vitrux liners, so thank you!
Good call
The impact torque is not in a direction to affect the liners. Its not a hammer drill
Never heard of this part. Cool. Good to know.
It is a sacrificial anode. This will be consumed instead of the metal that makes up the tank. Check it every 2-4 years, depending on water content and usage. The material, aluminum or magnesium, can conflict with some water, check/research what works for you.
The principal at play here is galvanic corrosion cells.
In industrial applications, the career field is called cathodic protection.
The same principles that protect over 700,000 miles of underground pipelines in the US also apply to each and every water heater tank.
Science is fun.
Sacrificial anodes 101: they’re supposed to corrode before critical components, so don’t expect one to never need replacing. If it never needs replacing, it’s not doing its job, and expensive components are absolutely suffering.
Thanks for the reminder. Mine likely needs replacement.
Thanks for the Tip. My fathers electric bill sky rocketed last few months and He suspects the Electric water htr is the culprit due to the water being super Hot lately...
Another good tip: if you don't have the 1 1/16 socket, you can go rent (for free) a axle nut socket set from any chain parts store. A 27mm is equivalent.
This socket set is also useful for removing a electric hot water heater heating element. Especially if it's seated in there real BAD
You can rent it from autozone?
@@gtarules1 a socket that size, YES
For free? Dude where the fk do you live??
Buying one at a big box store is gonna be cheaper than the gas and time to rent one.
@@pv2smurf My time to walk in and out of the parts store is worth more than the socket. If you value your time so little and live close to the store, maybe you could justify renting.
Awesome thanks I've been curious about this for ages.
I've done hundreds over the years and finally i got one i could not get. Tried everything. Including a breaker bar and cheater bar. I couldn't get anyone strong enough to hold the water heater. Something was gonna break, and it was me. Just went and got another one. Pulled and replace the rod before i filled it..
I personally found the breaker bar not helpful because the hot water heater unit itself starts twisting from the wall, I then went and bought myself an impact wrench and it worked, I almost gave up!🎉
If you can’t break it with a breaker bar, you have no chance with an impact, or your arms need a bit of working out
Very nice. 😮 I
Oh so love this ❤
I prefer to leave pressure on the tank and play a game of “how badly will I get scalded….” But on a serious note, I’ve been seeing these powered anode rods being used a lot more lately. If money was not an issue, would it make sense to install a powered rod on a brand new heater that still has a good factory rod. Just thinking about things that could make a water heater last 20 years (or more).
The question is if it would void the warranty?
I’d replace at half the warranty. That way you can see how much it’s used up and if you don’t like the electric one you know when to replace a regular rod.
How do you know when it is time to replace it ?
@@bgee5098 Your only real shot is to pull the old one out and inspect it.
Find a nos quality heater. Nothing made today will last 20 years.
Personally, I would just replace the water heater once the tank leaks. Replacing anode will extend life of the tank, but everything else will still be old. Since I can replace water heater myself, replacing water heater after 10 or so years is not a big problem. With more expensive water heaters like direct vent or power vent, replacing anode might be worth it. Also, don't forget to flush water heater regularly.
I spayed rust buster and let it sit overnight before using impact wrench 27mm after draining and opening hot water tap to release pressure to drain sediments out.
If the breaker bar won't cut it then the impact won't cut it lmao.
However i think he probably means, you'll be twisting the whole tank with the breaker bar. Whereas the impact just hammer it out without disrupting the tank.
Yes, exactly. (Your second point)
Im sure a good coating of anti seize could help keeping it from getting stuck.
That is a very nice impact wrench. I need one
I tried using breaker bar and I couldn't remove the old anode rod. Thanks for tip to use impact wrench.
I mean what else would you do? I thought that was universal knowledge.
@@Fee.1 For a professional yes. My first time working on my own tank and I don't even have impact wrench.
So just exactly what is the expected lifespan of one of these annodes?!? 🤔
Corro-Protec box is printed w/ 20 yr warranty , i am curious as to it's cost vs standard Mg or Al rod....plus not every water heater has an electrical outlet close-by! Cheers
Working solo most of the time I have a couple Rigid Impact Drivers that do most of that type work and a Rigid 1/2” Impact Wrench that hasn’t met a bolt/nut it can’t back out or one it can’t drive when I need that level of HD power and torque; re a water heater, if I can’t break an anode loose with a short extension handle socket I won’t risk the possible damage of using a longer handle/bar - the cost of re-plumbing a “jilted” water heater and PO’ed home owner just isn’t worth it. Good info!🙏
I like the output side anode. Replaces the nipper easy peasy
Thanks Man! 🙋♂️
Relieve pressure AND drain system below the level of the top of the water heater. Good time to check it is when you're also working on a water heater flush.
I like the anode rod but most of my customers don't have power close or can't afford it. Great video and I am a licensed plumber in Texas,where are you located.😊
Texas as well. Near San Antonio 🤘🏼
I'm from San Antonio but live in Kyle in between Austin and San Marcos
@@nelsoninman3678 worked in that area for about a year. Now mostly in New Braunfels and further north (Dripping Springs, Wimberly, Canyon lake)
@@theplumbersplungerlove the fishing in clear lake
I'm confused, do you mean that people don't have access to power for the heater itself?
So how do you know when it’s time to replace?
Water starts smelling or every 3-5 years
If you're in a well expect more frequently could be months if u have city of chicago water from lake Michigan like we're blessed to have here you will probably never have to replace it.
@@JUNEBUGLLC I have northern New Mexico water 😂
In my area the standard rods last 3-4 years. You have to remove the rod to inspect it
Never needs replacing here in Nashville TN. The tank will rupture before anyone does anything or has anything done.
never been able to bust an anode rod loose, congrats to anyone who can.
You need a impact wrench or because I use to replace them in marine applications situations you get a punch and a hammer you tap it for few minutes *TAP IT do not swing with all your force or half your force*
Now if the bolt is fucked drill it out and if you do that you have to do a lot of extra work to get all the metal shaving out if your using a vacuum or get extractor socket gear wrench sells some I don’t remember if they go super big they should
@@infernoeagles5812 I'll give it another go, I've used an impact and all it really seemed to be good at is wanting to spin the water heater... even when full. I'll try the punch, and give it another go, thanks.
An impact is the only way but if it still doesn’t work leave it and remove the nipple and get one designed to go in there. It’s much easier and if there’s any left on the old one now you have extra anode.
ooh, induced current is absolutely the best for preventing corrosion. what a time to be alive.
More like if you can't get it with a breaker bar, Go get a cheater bar. Don't get an impact wrench, you can remove the head and still leave the anode inside.
That's exactly what happened to me this past summer. Once it broke off, I decided it was time to buy a new water heater. After I installed the new one, I cut open my old tank and it became obvious that I had made the right decision.
The electric anode has been fantastic with our well water. All H2S smell is gone and was a lot easier to install(shorter).
My hot water tank lasted 27 years before it started to leak. On my new tank which is 1.5 years old can't remove the anode rod. I tried breaker bar and air impact gun. At this point before I break anything i gave up on power anode rod. Perhaps 25years from now ill replace it before I install tank.
Good job 👍
as a diy guy I can honestly say staying away from 12point sockets and then showing your impact is why you have rounded bolts off if you just use had tools instead of using a impact all you need is a ¾ inch drive breaker bar or socket wrench but they are extremely expensive all you have to have is a socket ¾inch drive socket wrench and sockets a set from harbor freight is a good choice or you can always check you local pawn shops for cheaper tools that bolt head is probably a 31mm or 32mm or 1 n ¹16 or 1 n ¼ sockets 32mm will work just finding a 32mm is hard i should know because im used to turning wrenches on mine and everyone vehicles
In my case the breaker didn't work. The whole tank full of water just rotated. For the new tank I put anti seize to prevent this.
Five years on mine so far and no problems!
Uhhh, if you can't get it out with a breaker bar, you need to attach a pipe to your breaker bar and branch out a bit farther for more leverage. Using an impact should be your first choice but if that doesn't work, breaker bar will pretty much be your only choice.
Good info!
I just bought a new water heater. Maybe I should just go ahead and get one of those powered anode rods since removing the old one will never be easier than right now.
Corro protect is the best!
I didn’t know they have ICCP systems for hot water heaters now. That’s pretty cool.
I installed my own water heater at my house, it's an electric water heater and it was super easy to replace, but other than that i don't know a damn thing about water heaters, can someone please explain what the rod does and why you would want to replace it?
I know the water heater i installed is apparently only good for like 6-7 years, but i do flush them out once a year as i learned it's a good idea to do so to extend the life of your water heater, we got right around 8 years outta the first one i installed when we bought our home, and I just had to replace it again a few months ago.
Super easy to replace an electric water heater, it's just 3 wires, the hardest things about it is having the ability to solder the new pipes to tie the new water heater back into the existing potable water supply, other than that tho, piece of cake
I have experience with DIY electric water heater work: changing elements and thermostats, and flushing. But on my last heater I did all that and it would still run out of hot water strangely fast. I wonder if the problem could’ve been this anode rod 🤔
No, the anode protects the tank. It won’t affect how long the temp lasts. Could be a burnt out element, a leak somewhere on the hot waterline waisting the water, or too much buildup in the tank lowering volume.
@@theplumbersplunger ahh gotcha. Yeahh, I went ahead and replaced the tank myself a while back. But good to know for the future…
I would use an impact driver. If your water heater is older the vibration will break lime, rust, and other stuff loose in the tank and it can plug your waterlines and cause alot of other problems. So in my opinion i would use a larger breaker bar first and only use an imact gun as a very last resort.
Tighten FIRST, then loosen,,, Norwegian "torque wrench"technique!!!
What is the other foam plug hole next to the anode rod location?
It’s the injection hole for the insulation that surrounds the housing.
Honest question: Why the electric cable on the rod? Does it need to be plugged into the wall?
Does the Corro Protect fit electric State Water heaters?
Remember if your getting a sulfur smell in only your hot water its from your magnesium anode rode. Use an aluminum one if you can to avoid the smell.
I replaced the heater that had the magnesium anode on it. There was no anode on the new heater, and I couldn't buy it anywhere separately. The boiler is already 8 years old. Rust can already be seen on the water heating pipes from the central heating. I thought that the heating pipes were made of copper and that there could be no mixing of water from the heating system...
Just like Magnesium will sacrifice itself to protect the Steel, the Steel will sacrifice itself to protect the copper. It's best to ensure there are no metallic connections between dissimilar metals.
A water softener does away with a lot of these issues. Had a water heater last about 25 years without changing the anode rod. It never leaked, just wasn't heating well anymore
Even with a softener heaters in my area are lasting around 8-10 years in average.
@@theplumbersplunger wow, what is in that water man!
@@ColeSpolaric we have very hard water. (Lots of calcium and magnesium) It causes scale buildup and destroys the plumbing. Most homes need/have a water softener.
Quando non scalda più è dovuto alla resistenza elettrica ricoperta da calcare.
Basta cambiarla
How many years from new should you change it?
How do u know when u need to change it
Unfortunately there's no window to peek at it so you need to physically inspect it. How long an anode rod will last is highly dependent on the water at each house. Mine looked pretty good even after 4 years. My neighbor, whose well is not as deep, only gets 1-2 years.
And how often am I supposed to replace it? And how do i know when it does bad?
6 Pt sockets are ALWAYS better when they are an option. Hmmm, never heard of an electric rod, they don't "dissolve" or wear out? Sounds like a cool option if they aren't terribly more expensive, assuming there's an available outlet.
Impact that puts out alot of torque period the end.
Mine is really stuck in there. Used a 1 1/16 6 point socket. My big 1,600lb ft of torque couldn’t get it, my big 1/2 breaker bar couldn’t get it, and my Cornwell 1/2 air impact gun couldn’t get it.
Also, now it’s stripped sooo I have no idea what to do besides buying a big extractor now 🙂
If you can't get it loose with a breaker bar an impact won't take it loose.
What causes water not heating up in the geyser but it gets hot only when I close the cold water valve
Install a marathon brand poly tank and you will also never replace one of these rods. They don't need one since they are poly tanks.
What are the chances of damaging the glass-lined tank by using an impact wrench?
Minimal honestly. Most of them are already damaged from transportation.
Is that the $200 one from Amazon?
It’s on Amazon yes,
Can i use dw40 or heatgun to loosen bolt or nah?
Why need to be change ? What work does to water heather ty
How much electricity does the powered anode rod use?
Would to recommend that powered anode for a commercial size wh?
I’ve never replaced one of these
I’ve had the same water heater for 10 years😮
My water heater usually leaks around 8-10 years then I replace it what a anode Rod ?
If I have a gas wasted heater dose it have one and how often to it need to be replaced
Sizewise are replacement anode rods universal?
why is that DeWalt red
😂
There are so many videos of people changing out the anode rod but there's almost no videos at all changing out the inlet and Outlet pipes the cold water in the hot water if anybody find a video of that send me the link
What do you need to change them out for?
@@theplumbersplunger they're rusted but they're level with the top of the water heater
What's a "node rod"?
Is it anything like a medical "node"? Does a water heater have any "lymphs"?
Better question: does the staff at your nursing home know you're accessing the internet unsupervised?
Which one did you end up using
Breaker bar is always last resort, its never failed me
Dont forgwt the longest pipe you own
I tried that the first time I replaced the one at my current home. Moved the whole unit. Grabbed my impact and part of the sacrificial material fell to the bottom of the tank. New rod went in and things are still good five years later.🤞
So how do you know if your anode rod is bad?
Your water heater manual should tell you how to inspect. On my Rheem it says to replaced if more than 6-inches of the core wire is showing.
What if the water has 2 anode rods? Do I get 2 of this type? Remove both old anode rods and put a plug in one?
I have never seen an anode rod on our water heaters, but ours features a stainless steel tank.
Hey boy! Why you using a non impact extension with that impact boy?
🤷🏻♂️
@@theplumbersplunger reference to UA-cam plumber #replumb
The impact driver is highly un-recommend- ripping, tears, breaks, micro fractures and more are amongst the few that can destroy the tank from using one.. even brand new ones can be damaged.. breaker bars are the way to go!!
Is for electric tanks only?
When can you tell they need replaced?
Thank you I've been asking people about taking it out with a impact like you did, and everybody says no you'll wreck it...
You are the boss 💪
How often should you replace those?
My Rheem owners manual says to inspect yearly.
Every 5 years replace those?
Are there anode rods on the blue amtex indirect fired water heaters?
Do all camper water heater have that rod?
Aluminum or magnesium?
How do I know I need a new anode rod?
Doest heat well or at all
When do I know to replace the rod?
So how does a Rod way shorter work as good.
Can any tell me or send a link to the adapter that he has on his impact driver is called?
Seriously I have never ever heard of anyone doing this Is this actually something that's regularly done I mean I work in maintenance and facility support and we've never replaced one of these things We replaced the entire unit usually it's 20 years old but I literally have never ever seen anyone replacement of these things before Is this something that's regularly done serious question ....Thanks😊