Best VW carb video I've seen so far. Very helpful. My 69 bus is stumbling when I shift up and step on the gas. I've played with the fast idle, choke, idle screw and mixture screw and nothing seems to work. I think I may have a vacuum leak.
FYI all: I put a new Solex 30/31 on my 72 standard bug. Tuned it like Chris said, though it really came out of the box just about set perfect. Ran like a champ. Then because I didn't secure/run the plug wires to #1 and #2 cylinders up out of the way one of them wiggled down and impeded my accel pump from functioning. This led to much cursing, dead on the road, suspecting vapor lock, trash in the line, etc. keep your plug wires up and away from behind the carb accel pump. Rookie mistake. What I though could be a tuning problem was me being lazy about securing the plug wires. And I bet it happened on the previous carb and I just didn't realize it. These carbs, if clean, are really bullet-proof (if not worn out at the throttle arm, which my mechanic checked on the previous carb). Been running great ever since.
That is what those all Important 3 clips are for that snap into the fan housing hole and hold the spark plug wires to the front of the fan housing. Whenever I work on someone's bug I always make sure these are in place and wires are being held by them.
I'm not a mechanic, but bought a '79 Superbeetle a year ago. It was running well until yesterday when it seems to idle too low and die. Turns on just fine. LOVED the video, and I'm going to try to fix it myself. Will trouble shoot and see what happens!! Thank you, Amy
After struggling for some time with all kinds of internet advice, I'm fairly certain I must have a vacuum leak somewhere, now to hunt it down! I feel like everything was tightened up without over tightening. When he said mixture screw not having effect, the light went on, Thanks Chris!
You all probably dont care at all but does anyone know a method to get back into an Instagram account..? I was stupid forgot the account password. I love any tricks you can offer me!
@Hamza Troy I really appreciate your reply. I found the site on google and im trying it out atm. Takes quite some time so I will reply here later with my results.
Chris, I have seen many videos on the 2 screw process for VW engines. Yours seemed to be the first one that I have viewed to suggest adjusting the idle mixture first, then the idle screw. But true to form, and I think it is for both scenarios, you'll have to micro adjust back and forth between the two to get her just right. Great video. Looking forward to the others you have produced.
Where was this video a few months ago. I ended up doing a ton of research and no one made it this simple. Next time I need to adjust the carbs I'm coming back to this video.
Great video much appreciated I got a 30 pic 2 and couldn’t find much info 🤙 I’ve been doing some research I thought they had forgot to install the second mixture screw on my carb 🤣
Hay Chris, Thanks for the info on adjusting the stock carburetor. I currently have a 32/36 on my dual port and have tried everything to get this thing adjusted. I went over this carb several times and it still does not work correctly. The adjustments are NOT easy to get to on the engine. I am taking your Dad's and your advise to go back to STOCK. I just ordered the carb and new manifold and I believe this will solve my problems. The engine came with the 32/36 but I am like you with, just keep it stock. Thanks for the adjustment tips. I will keep you posted to the outcome.
Great info, thank you. Picking up a 73 Karmann Ghia and it sounds like it is too lean and will not idle. This will be my first VW so all knowledge is good unless otherwise :).
Apart from OG vw videos Chris is the best. Just to note maybe as I am Irish and European models have little differences,my stock 72 daily 1200 (40hp in US) comes with 30 Pict 3 that has 2screws,airbypass is the big one and small fuelmix. A big problem with bugs is carbon blocked preheat manifold tubes.Its a days work to fix.Short,road trips and idling in traffic cause buildup to increase without big mileage.I think fuel quality today sucks?
Hey Chris this was a good video. so what size jets should be used in a 34 pic-3 carb? main... idle... have a 1600 dual port that I think could use a bigger jet but not sure.
Thanks Chris and I do have a question. When I adjust my mixture screw, I can see electric arc from tip of my screwdriver. I see no bare wires touching carb at any point. What should I look for or is this just a VW thing? And i have 30 pick 2 on a 67 bug. I've been turning wrench for 20yrs or so but very rusty with minimum experience with carbs at best. Thank you.
Hi Chris, how do you tune the 30 pict-2 carb? the one to the side of the 30/31 pict you show. I have a centermount 30 pict 2 carb on my 1300 and I'm having problems with it. It started but didn't hold idle, I cleaned it up replaced the fuel pump and cleaned the tank as well cuz it's rusting and I'm having it replaced soon. After all that, it was popping through the carb and still didn't hold idle. I'm taking the whole intake manifold out to see if it is blocked or cracked, could this affect the carb and not letting the car idle?? Last time I tried to start it it just wouldn't start, the battery was a little low on juice but still turned the engine. What can cause this?? Plz any help is appreciated.
I am new to vw world as i just bought a trike with vw enging, has a single port carb, new, but when choke opens it dies, as long as choke is in closed position it runs pretty good, suggestions are much appreciated, thanks guys
Thanks Chris for this video. I do have a question for you, Are these adjustments the same as I would use on an EMPI 34 P-3 Carb? I have an early model 1600 engine on a sand rail. I'm a green horn to all of this, and am trying to learn how to adjust the carb. It is a new carb, I removed the old one because it had set with fuel in it and everything was gummed up. I didnt want to try to rebuild because I didnt know anything about it. So I put the one instead. nyway, please tell me whatever you can to help me make the proper adjustments. Thanks...
Hi Chris. The idling solenoid on my bug has the pin cut off. I live in South Africa. Some guys say you only need the pin in cold climates. Is that true mate?
Hey buddy , great video . Question , what are the vac ports on the back or front of the carb ? My wife has a 71 that I’m rebuilding the card on and I’ll be using this video to do so , so thank you , but there are 2 what I’m guessing is vacuum ports looking at you when you are looking at it on the car ? One sticks straight out and one slightly to the right pointing down . Should those both be capped off ?
What is the issue with running a 30/31 pict? curious because thats whats on my 71 the motor had been converted to a dual port at some point. F code block, dual ports and the Solex 30/31 gas mileage sucks, and i have a fuel leak some where ad i get small pools under the motor, the tops of the tins are wet and so is the manifold i am going to change out the manifold and rebuild the carb
Question. You make the adjustments and the engine is running smooth but at high rpm (over 900). How do you bring that idle down without changing adjustments? The screw on the step down is not the cause (barely touching the step down).
Chris im working on a 72 super beetle. It's an autostick which shouldn't matter. It has a 30/31 pict. What would be the correct carb? It was running good then the diaphragm on fuel pump went out (filling crankcase with gas), then was vapor locking. Fixed that. Then girlfriend was driving it in the cold and held the pedal to floor to start and flooded it. Hasnt run good since. Took carb apart cleaned everything, except little balls without a rebuild kit. Cant get it to start or idle? Ready to push it off a rocky mountain.
Thanks Chris and I do have a question. When I adjust my mixture screw, I can see electric arc from tip of my screwdriver. I see no bare wires touching carb at any point. What should I look for or is this just a VW thing? I've been turning wrench for 20yrs or so but very rusty with minimum experience with carbs at best. Thank you.
I have a question, I hope you can help with. I have a friend with his bug and has a Chinese made carby that looks similar to the one you mostly played with in this video. I noticed the “fast idle” screw was preset way out. It was 10mm away from the choke cam. I adjusted this correctly so now it’s making a very light contact with the choke cam, however I also noticed the other arm behind it that has another screw next to it. I had not come across this type of carby in my limited experience. What’s this one for? I’m gonna help him tune the car but I have plans to check and adjust valve clearances, check dwell and timing too because I suspect this bug has been messed with by previous owners who don’t know what they were doing. I also have told my friend that the Chinese carby he bought might be junk out of the box. Might have been better to import one yourself from Samba as there seems to be a couple of folks who recon better quality carbys and sell them.
Chris Vallone ill try to. It’s not the screw on the throttle arm that makes contact with the stepped choke cam. That arm behind the throttle arm which has a screw in the block where the throttle return spring mounts to.
Bought a brand new carburetor from eBay and I have no idea if it's been pre-adjusted or not you know anything about this kind of carburetor? M274 Willy's 4 cylinder and the carburetor is for mule. I have it put on a 4-cylinder Hercules Willy's engine. If you copy and paste this onto eBay it's that kind of carburetor. (M274 Mule 4 cylinder Willys M107A Carburetor Military Generator MD107A Tollitson) by any chance do you have one to make a video on adjusting the air mixture screws
I noticed my cam pick up lever is missing on a h30/31. Where can I get this lever? Seems the space where is should be makes the cam loose and not engage.
I have a 1200 single port engine that has the solex 30/31 on it. Car starts up and runs fine until it gets down the road.. and the idle will progressively drop until it sound like it will die (and has on occasion without rocking the gas pedal to keep the idle up, expecially at red lights or stop signs). Is a good cleaning/rebuild what I should be going for, or would it be more beneficial to buy a new carb. Any tips are appreciated. 1st time bug owner ('73 super)
Hey chris i just rebuilt my 1600cc to a 1641cc SP when i first start my car its perfectly fine but once it starts to warm up the carb flats out when i accelerates I've cleaned out the jets all around....and I've adjusted it the way it's suppose to but i can't figure it out 30-31pict3
Ok so it sounds like when it comes off choke, this is when you get the flat spot. Did you check out my express clean video? Take out all those lil balls?
G'Day Chris. I have a stock Australian built 1964 VW Beetle 1200 Deluxe (converted to 12v) with a Solex H30/31 Pict 3 carbie. Is this the correct carbie for a 1200?
i get on1 30/31h and the choke if gets open position, my car doens't work, i must must blocking more or less the idle air correctoin to work, i guess i have a leak....
Hi Chris I just found your site I have a pict 34 on a single port and it has a flat spot right off idel tried to adjust air and mixture and still have the same problem any ideas for this problem I would appreciate any help thanks again
My 1972 super beetle is getting gas in the oil when it sit during the winter, does not have issue while I drive during the warmer weather. Any suggestions. Thanks you. Live in Chicago.
I have a 74 Thing 181 1600cc, and began having trouble immediately after changing the fuel filter about a month or so ago. Ran fine prior to that. It will start fine, but is very choppy and will die as soon as I take my foot off the accelerator. I have changed the fuel filter again ( incase it was defective) and have rebuilt the carb twice to assure that there was no debris stuck somewhere, we have the aftermarket carb that you have shown top center. I watched your video and adjusted as you instructed, but there is no change. Please, if you have any thoughts as to what could be wrong I would love to hear them, as I am out of ideas. Posted the question on the FB Thing Registry, and have tried all the ideas given there. The car starts just fine, has a new battery and doesn't seem to have any power issues, just chokes out without continuing to hold down the accelerator. Thanks
@@classicvwbugs Did not dunk in carb dip, my husband changed everything that came in the kit as well as blew it out with the compressor. I don't know what the BB's are, can you explain? Also, could the electric air solenoid cause this problem since none of the adjustments seemed to make a difference.
@@kimhawk5228 I have a video on express carb clean, take a look at that, I show the BBs. Also, the idle solenoid can make a bit of difference. Sometimes just cracking it loose can free things up.
@@classicvwbugs Your express carb clean video was very helpful. She is running again without issue ( at least with the carb :) ) Thanks for all your help.
I know this video is pretty old, so I doubt I'll get a response, but what do I do if it idles fine but I get pops and backfires randomly, usually under partial throttle? I have 34pict3 carb and SVDA dizzy.
At the 2:00 mark the carb your talking about. There is a long spring going up and down on the right. My 72 super doesnt have that. Whats it called? And should i have it? I have 34 pict 3
@@classicvwbugs ,,,,,Fill the fuel bowl via the bowl vent...........[small homemade funnel ],,,,,,,wack the throttle a few times ; to see fuel squirting down the venturi ..............
@@texasdoc68 when I rebuilt the carb the o ring was completely missing , after re assembly it appears to be back to running good now I haven’t had a problem since ! The only symptoms I had were a random misfire 30miles into a road trip and that the adjustment from the mixture screw didn’t work , both now fixed 😊
Hello,If you want to teach anybody for wv clasic carburator “solex”3,4 you must do step by step because I have a problem how to fox air jet and unlead jet and if you could tell me how much litres with unlead goes wv 1974 200cc in 100 kilometers.thank you greatings from Kosova .
Chris I have a 69 bug with a 1500 single port motor, bosch 009 distributor, and a solex 30 pict 2 carb. I'm having issues getting my motor started after a head swap due to lost compression from a cracked head...compression now is fine, heads are adjusted, in getting good spark, I've disassembled the whole fuels system and replaced everything brand new except carb, I cleaned the carb thoroughly... I have only 1 adjustment screw, and then the idle which controls the throttle butterfly...any suggestions
Chris Vallone yeah everything was torqued properly and I used your video on express cleaning...its timed correctly...i can get the motor started but I have to feather the throttle to keep it idling and it will eventually die
Chris Vallone my thoughts exactly... I have a bus with a 2L type 4 engine, it has webers I'm comfortable with adjusting those but not familiar with the idle on a solex pict 2...in your video you don't go over the adjustment on those
chris , how do we take out a mix screw that turns in and out but doesnt want to come of? it stays flush with the opening so no way to catch it (with pliers for example ) and pull it out... any ideas?
solder a piece of sturdy copper wire onto it, use it like a wrench to back it out. Or you can get a cold chisel to back it out by digging into the brass and then backing it out. or drill two holes in the fastener and put in two pins and then put pliers on that and turn it out.
Loosen the screw all the way, Get a very tiny drill bit and inserting it in the screw slot and turn right while pulling out ,the grip will pull it out after some tries
I tried following your carb tune-up procedure, but still have 2 problems. The engine runs beautifully for a while and then slows to a stall. The other problem is that it also stalls when I accelerate rapidly. These may have the same cause. Please let me know how to correct these 2 problems.
When I do tighten the nut on the side the arm doesn't go back to it's original position where it is barely touching the choke the arm will sit farther back ....is there any way to take off that arm ??
@@treeman90022 No that is the right carb for a DP engine. The year of the car does not matter, what matters in the engine. You have a later engine in that 1970 bug. What distributor do you have in there?
@@classicvwbugs Hi Chris and thank you for the response very much The distributor looks like the ones that don't have a vacuum cylinder on the side of it so maybe that is the problem I'm going to do everything you told us to do in your video it runs good when I toggle the accelerator rapidly off and on and then I get the car going it runs good shifting per second and third but when I come to the stop the car will shut off thank you for helping me Chris God bless you and your family stay safe thank you for all your help you are a good person
@@classicvwbugs Hi Chris and thank you for the response very much The distributor looks like the ones that don't have a vacuum cylinder on the side of it so maybe that is the problem I'm going to do everything you told us to do in your video it runs good when I toggle the accelerator rapidly off and on and then I get the car going it runs good shifting per second and third but when I come to the stop the car will shut off thank you for helping me Chris God bless you and your family stay safe thank you for all your help you are a good person
one thing do not do is spray carb cleaner in the two holes by the throat and watch what happens .I have done that about 4 times always same thing ,get sprayed in the eyes.AAHH I CANT SEE.
Joshua Brody try checking the float. Take off the top of the carb and see if it's sunken into the fuel. Maybe that is the issue. Or you might be running out of gas. ?
use plasma ignition ore waste spark ignition go lean as much as you like ore use vaporisation tehnology ore gasoline rediction chamber biger tube to the fuel botom smaler tube on the top of the fuel container ther you go drive all day on vapor
Best VW carb video I've seen so far. Very helpful. My 69 bus is stumbling when I shift up and step on the gas. I've played with the fast idle, choke, idle screw and mixture screw and nothing seems to work. I think I may have a vacuum leak.
Appreciate the information. Definitely helped to at least know where a good start setting is for both adjustments and then to go from there.
FYI all: I put a new Solex 30/31 on my 72 standard bug. Tuned it like Chris said, though it really came out of the box just about set perfect. Ran like a champ. Then because I didn't secure/run the plug wires to #1 and #2 cylinders up out of the way one of them wiggled down and impeded my accel pump from functioning. This led to much cursing, dead on the road, suspecting vapor lock, trash in the line, etc. keep your plug wires up and away from behind the carb accel pump. Rookie mistake. What I though could be a tuning problem was me being lazy about securing the plug wires. And I bet it happened on the previous carb and I just didn't realize it. These carbs, if clean, are really bullet-proof (if not worn out at the throttle arm, which my mechanic checked on the previous carb). Been running great ever since.
That is what those all Important 3 clips are for that snap into the fan housing hole and hold the spark plug wires to the front of the fan housing. Whenever I work on someone's bug I always make sure these are in place and wires are being held by them.
wow perfect timing! i have a 30/31 that i'm not happy with and am putting a volkzbitz carb (30pict1) on this weekend. Good video Chris!
Hi, thanks so much for this video - this solved the problem of my van cutting out for the last year
great as always. Thanks from North Wales, UK
Great instructional. Wish I had this info two Summers ago for my bus.
I'm not a mechanic, but bought a '79 Superbeetle a year ago. It was running well until yesterday when it seems to idle too low and die. Turns on just fine. LOVED the video, and I'm going to try to fix it myself. Will trouble shoot and see what happens!! Thank you, Amy
This video helped me greatly today. Great explanation. Will definitely be coming back to this you tube link for more help.
Another great video, Chris
After struggling for some time with all kinds of internet advice, I'm fairly certain I must have a vacuum leak somewhere, now to hunt it down! I feel like everything was tightened up without over tightening. When he said mixture screw not having effect, the light went on, Thanks Chris!
Very informative and clearly described, thanks
great video, you saved me some money . i was able to fix my own problem.
Thank you for your video 20 min later my Baja running great thank again
Thank you so much. Very informative, educational and easy to follow and understand!! Richard from New Zealand
You all probably dont care at all but does anyone know a method to get back into an Instagram account..?
I was stupid forgot the account password. I love any tricks you can offer me!
@Franklin Rowan instablaster =)
@Hamza Troy I really appreciate your reply. I found the site on google and im trying it out atm.
Takes quite some time so I will reply here later with my results.
@Hamza Troy it worked and I now got access to my account again. I'm so happy:D
Thank you so much, you really help me out :D
@Franklin Rowan You are welcome =)
Chris, I have seen many videos on the 2 screw process for VW engines. Yours seemed to be the first one that I have viewed to suggest adjusting the idle mixture first, then the idle screw. But true to form, and I think it is for both scenarios, you'll have to micro adjust back and forth between the two to get her just right. Great video. Looking forward to the others you have produced.
Totally agree with your comments. Only one this detailed and helpful.
Great video. Esp with the 34 pic3 carb. I have a 74 Super w/ a 72 Super's engine in it. Just realized that I don't have the dashpot on my car.
Where was this video a few months ago. I ended up doing a ton of research and no one made it this simple. Next time I need to adjust the carbs I'm coming back to this video.
Thanks a ton, very helpful video!
Very informative video here. Thanks for sharing this knowledge.
Great video much appreciated I got a 30 pic 2 and couldn’t find much info 🤙 I’ve been doing some research I thought they had forgot to install the second mixture screw on my carb 🤣
Hay Chris, Thanks for the info on adjusting the stock carburetor. I currently have a 32/36 on my dual port and have tried everything to get this thing adjusted. I went over this carb several times and it still does not work correctly. The adjustments are NOT easy to get to on the engine. I am taking your Dad's and your advise to go back to STOCK. I just ordered the carb and new manifold and I believe this will solve my problems. The engine came with the 32/36 but I am like you with, just keep it stock. Thanks for the adjustment tips. I will keep you posted to the outcome.
Another great video! Thank you!
Nice one, just what I needed. Have a 28 PICT and couldn't find a good walkthrough with just the one screw!
Great video, explained quite well thanku
Good video you know what you’re talking about
thank you, really helpful video
Great info, thank you. Picking up a 73 Karmann Ghia and it sounds like it is too lean and will not idle. This will be my first VW so all knowledge is good unless otherwise :).
Great vid, thanks for spending the time 😁
A vacuum gauge is a great tool to assist in getting the carb dialed in.
Apart from OG vw videos Chris is the best. Just to note maybe as I am Irish and European models have little differences,my stock 72 daily 1200 (40hp in US) comes with 30 Pict 3 that has 2screws,airbypass is the big one and small fuelmix. A big problem with bugs is carbon blocked preheat manifold tubes.Its a days work to fix.Short,road trips and idling in traffic cause buildup to increase without big mileage.I think fuel quality today sucks?
Great Video!
Hey Chris this was a good video. so what size jets should be used in a 34 pic-3 carb? main... idle... have a 1600 dual port that I think could use a bigger jet but not sure.
thanks for the video helps alot 👍
Thank it was a big help
Thanks it fixed my issue
Very helpful 👍
Great help thank you
Check for vacuum leaks with starting fluid...it will speed up when you find it..
Thanks Chris and I do have a question. When I adjust my mixture screw, I can see electric arc from tip of my screwdriver. I see no bare wires touching carb at any point. What should I look for or is this just a VW thing? And i have 30 pick 2 on a 67 bug. I've been turning wrench for 20yrs or so but very rusty with minimum experience with carbs at best. Thank you.
Hi Chris, how do you tune the 30 pict-2 carb? the one to the side of the 30/31 pict you show. I have a centermount 30 pict 2 carb on my 1300 and I'm having problems with it. It started but didn't hold idle, I cleaned it up replaced the fuel pump and cleaned the tank as well cuz it's rusting and I'm having it replaced soon. After all that, it was popping through the carb and still didn't hold idle. I'm taking the whole intake manifold out to see if it is blocked or cracked, could this affect the carb and not letting the car idle?? Last time I tried to start it it just wouldn't start, the battery was a little low on juice but still turned the engine. What can cause this?? Plz any help is appreciated.
Super helpful
Hey Chris I wanted to ask is it the same concept with my 34 duel baby Dellortos frd to adjust??
I am new to vw world as i just bought a trike with vw enging, has a single port carb, new, but when choke opens it dies, as long as choke is in closed position it runs pretty good, suggestions are much appreciated, thanks guys
Thanks Chris for this video. I do have a question for you, Are these adjustments the same
as I would use on an EMPI 34 P-3 Carb? I have an early model 1600 engine on a sand rail. I'm a green horn to all of this, and am trying to learn how to adjust the carb. It is a new carb, I removed the old one because it had set with fuel in it and everything was gummed up. I didnt want to try to rebuild because I didnt know anything about it. So I put the one instead. nyway, please tell me whatever you can to help me make the proper adjustments. Thanks...
yes it is all the same premise.
Hi Chris. The idling solenoid on my bug has the pin cut off. I live in South Africa. Some guys say you only need the pin in cold climates. Is that true mate?
Ihave a very confuse guestion 67 vw my wire the feed power into the speedometer ?
Hey buddy , great video . Question , what are the vac ports on the back or front of the carb ? My wife has a 71 that I’m rebuilding the card on and I’ll be using this video to do so , so thank you , but there are 2 what I’m guessing is vacuum ports looking at you when you are looking at it on the car ? One sticks straight out and one slightly to the right pointing down . Should those both be capped off ?
yes if you have the distributor with dual vacuum advance, they would go to those ports. But if you have something like an 009, then just cap them off.
What is the issue with running a 30/31 pict? curious because thats whats on my 71 the motor had been converted to a dual port at some point. F code block, dual ports and the Solex 30/31 gas mileage sucks, and i have a fuel leak some where ad i get small pools under the motor, the tops of the tins are wet and so is the manifold i am going to change out the manifold and rebuild the carb
I have hesatation and piping on my pass side driver side running hot is this carb. its on trike 1600 motor single carb
Question. You make the adjustments and the engine is running smooth but at high rpm (over 900). How do you bring that idle down without changing adjustments? The screw on the step down is not the cause (barely touching the step down).
What about the electric choke?
Chris im working on a 72 super beetle. It's an autostick which shouldn't matter. It has a 30/31 pict. What would be the correct carb? It was running good then the diaphragm on fuel pump went out (filling crankcase with gas), then was vapor locking. Fixed that. Then girlfriend was driving it in the cold and held the pedal to floor to start and flooded it. Hasnt run good since. Took carb apart cleaned everything, except little balls without a rebuild kit. Cant get it to start or idle? Ready to push it off a rocky mountain.
1600dp? 34 pict 3
I really want to keep the 30/31 pict but im having trouble getting it tuned after i took it apart to clean it but im going to try again today.
I was told two full turns out on both idle and mixture?
Hi Chris,
What is that vac-can type thing on the '74 carb towards the end of the video?
it is for easy throttle return
Thanks Chris and I do have a question. When I adjust my mixture screw, I can see electric arc from tip of my screwdriver. I see no bare wires touching carb at any point. What should I look for or is this just a VW thing? I've been turning wrench for 20yrs or so but very rusty with minimum experience with carbs at best. Thank you.
oh wow, when you are adjusting the screw, you are hovering over the distributor plug wires correct? There has to be a bad wire there on that cap.
I have a question, I hope you can help with. I have a friend with his bug and has a Chinese made carby that looks similar to the one you mostly played with in this video. I noticed the “fast idle” screw was preset way out. It was 10mm away from the choke cam. I adjusted this correctly so now it’s making a very light contact with the choke cam, however I also noticed the other arm behind it that has another screw next to it. I had not come across this type of carby in my limited experience. What’s this one for?
I’m gonna help him tune the car but I have plans to check and adjust valve clearances, check dwell and timing too because I suspect this bug has been messed with by previous owners who don’t know what they were doing. I also have told my friend that the Chinese carby he bought might be junk out of the box. Might have been better to import one yourself from Samba as there seems to be a couple of folks who recon better quality carbys and sell them.
can you email me a pic of the screw you are talking about?
Chris Vallone ill try to. It’s not the screw on the throttle arm that makes contact with the stepped choke cam. That arm behind the throttle arm which has a screw in the block where the throttle return spring mounts to.
Bought a brand new carburetor from eBay and I have no idea if it's been pre-adjusted or not you know anything about this kind of carburetor? M274 Willy's 4 cylinder and the carburetor is for mule. I have it put on a 4-cylinder Hercules Willy's engine. If you copy and paste this onto eBay it's that kind of carburetor. (M274 Mule 4 cylinder Willys M107A Carburetor Military Generator MD107A Tollitson) by any chance do you have one to make a video on adjusting the air mixture screws
Hello good day! Do you sell surplus carburetor for beetle?
I noticed my cam pick up lever is missing on a h30/31. Where can I get this lever? Seems the space where is should be makes the cam loose and not engage.
I have a 1200 single port engine that has the solex 30/31 on it. Car starts up and runs fine until it gets down the road.. and the idle will progressively drop until it sound like it will die (and has on occasion without rocking the gas pedal to keep the idle up, expecially at red lights or stop signs). Is a good cleaning/rebuild what I should be going for, or would it be more beneficial to buy a new carb. Any tips are appreciated. 1st time bug owner ('73 super)
If you have a 1200cc motor, you should not have the 30/31 pict carb on there. A 28 pict is right, and will work better.
Hey chris i just rebuilt my 1600cc to a 1641cc SP when i first start my car its perfectly fine but once it starts to warm up the carb flats out when i accelerates I've cleaned out the jets all around....and I've adjusted it the way it's suppose to but i can't figure it out
30-31pict3
Ok so it sounds like when it comes off choke, this is when you get the flat spot. Did you check out my express clean video? Take out all those lil balls?
G'Day Chris. I have a stock Australian built 1964 VW Beetle 1200 Deluxe (converted to 12v) with a Solex H30/31 Pict 3 carbie. Is this the correct carbie for a 1200?
no you want a 28pict 1
i get on1 30/31h and the choke if gets open position, my car doens't work, i must must blocking more or less the idle air correctoin to work, i guess i have a leak....
Hi Chris I just found your site I have a pict 34 on a single port and it has a flat spot right off idel tried to adjust air and mixture and still have the same problem any ideas for this problem I would appreciate any help thanks again
34 pict carb on a single port? Change that, should be 30 pict 3 for a 1600 single port.
Can I put the 30 pack one carburetor on a 1200 single port standard motor
Yes
My 1972 super beetle is getting gas in the oil when it sit during the winter, does not have issue while I drive during the warmer weather. Any suggestions. Thanks you. Live in Chicago.
Are you parking on a hill nose up by any chance for a long period of time? If not, then check your needle and seat in the carb.
I have a 74 Thing 181 1600cc, and began having trouble immediately after changing the fuel filter about a month or so ago. Ran fine prior to that. It will start fine, but is very choppy and will die as soon as I take my foot off the accelerator. I have changed the fuel filter again ( incase it was defective) and have rebuilt the carb twice to assure that there was no debris stuck somewhere, we have the aftermarket carb that you have shown top center. I watched your video and adjusted as you instructed, but there is no change. Please, if you have any thoughts as to what could be wrong I would love to hear them, as I am out of ideas. Posted the question on the FB Thing Registry, and have tried all the ideas given there. The car starts just fine, has a new battery and doesn't seem to have any power issues, just chokes out without continuing to hold down the accelerator. Thanks
Still sounds like a dirty carb. Did you take all the lil BBs out of the carb? Did you dunk the carb in a carb dip?
@@classicvwbugs Did not dunk in carb dip, my husband changed everything that came in the kit as well as blew it out with the compressor. I don't know what the BB's are, can you explain? Also, could the electric air solenoid cause this problem since none of the adjustments seemed to make a difference.
@@kimhawk5228 I have a video on express carb clean, take a look at that, I show the BBs. Also, the idle solenoid can make a bit of difference. Sometimes just cracking it loose can free things up.
@@classicvwbugs Your express carb clean video was very helpful. She is running again without issue ( at least with the carb :) ) Thanks for all your help.
I know this video is pretty old, so I doubt I'll get a response, but what do I do if it idles fine but I get pops and backfires randomly, usually under partial throttle? I have 34pict3 carb and SVDA dizzy.
Could be timing, or poor fuel flow shooting down into the carb!
How do you set the Heater Element when assembling the carburetor? Thanks, Raoul
Make sure the line on the element drum is aligned with the lines on the carb housing. That's where you start.
At the 2:00 mark the carb your talking about. There is a long spring going up and down on the right. My 72 super doesnt have that. Whats it called? And should i have it? I have 34 pict 3
Yeah the throttle spring? You should yeah.
which way do you adjust if it is bogging down or back firing?
Check your timng
When you say half a turn do you mean turn the screw 180 degrees, So 10 half turns is 5 full turns?
Yep
Do you need to fill the bowl with gas before you mount the carb? Or can you just put it on empty?
you can put it on first, mount it, then just pour some gas down the carb to prime it. Just get a lil cup.
@@classicvwbugs ,,,,,Fill the fuel bowl via the bowl vent...........[small homemade funnel ],,,,,,,wack the throttle a few times ; to see fuel squirting down the venturi ..............
With my bug starts in very low idle and the accelerates by himself 1970 VW Bug
My 73 super beetle will not stay idling after warm up
My mixture screw is in all the way, and it still runs good. What gives?
Vacuum issues
My carb was missing the rubber o ring on the mixture completely! Hoping that’s solved my running issues
Did this fix it? I’m trying to get my 28 Pict 1 running better. It won’t die when I turn the volume (mixture) screw all the way in.
@@texasdoc68 when I rebuilt the carb the o ring was completely missing , after re assembly it appears to be back to running good now I haven’t had a problem since ! The only symptoms I had were a random misfire 30miles into a road trip and that the adjustment from the mixture screw didn’t work , both now fixed 😊
Hello,If you want to teach anybody for wv clasic carburator “solex”3,4 you must do step by step because I have a problem how to fox air jet and unlead
jet and if you could tell me how much litres with unlead goes wv 1974 200cc in 100 kilometers.thank you greatings from Kosova .
If you have an idle screw on the side of the carb, why have another idle screw in the front (next to the throttle cable)?
Early carbs with the screw on the side is the air mixture screw.
Chris I have a 69 bug with a 1500 single port motor, bosch 009 distributor, and a solex 30 pict 2 carb. I'm having issues getting my motor started after a head swap due to lost compression from a cracked head...compression now is fine, heads are adjusted, in getting good spark, I've disassembled the whole fuels system and replaced everything brand new except carb, I cleaned the carb thoroughly... I have only 1 adjustment screw, and then the idle which controls the throttle butterfly...any suggestions
were the heads torqued right? Timing right? Did you use my express clean video on cleaning the carb?
Chris Vallone yeah everything was torqued properly and I used your video on express cleaning...its timed correctly...i can get the motor started but I have to feather the throttle to keep it idling and it will eventually die
still sounds like a carb issue, it is starving for gas.
Chris Vallone my thoughts exactly... I have a bus with a 2L type 4 engine, it has webers I'm comfortable with adjusting those but not familiar with the idle on a solex pict 2...in your video you don't go over the adjustment on those
chris , how do we take out a mix screw that turns in and out but doesnt want to come of? it stays flush with the opening so no way to catch it (with pliers for example ) and pull it out... any ideas?
You can use a magnet on a wand. They sell them at hardware stores, good to have anyway since it is good to catch small things in tight areas.
solder a piece of sturdy copper wire onto it, use it like a wrench to back it out. Or you can get a cold chisel to back it out by digging into the brass and then backing it out. or drill two holes in the fastener and put in two pins and then put pliers on that and turn it out.
Thank you both!
Loosen the screw all the way, Get a very tiny drill bit and inserting it in the screw slot and turn right while pulling out ,the grip will pull it out after some tries
I tried following your carb tune-up procedure, but still have 2 problems.
The engine runs beautifully for a while and then slows to a stall. The other problem is that it also stalls when I accelerate rapidly. These may have the same cause. Please let me know how to correct these 2 problems.
Still a carb issue it sounds like. You took all the jets out? Did you dunk the carb?
@@classicvwbugs This is a brand new carburetor.
@@t.kobylarz2907 doesn't mean anything
will a 30 pict 1 be ok for a 1200?
lennyauditt Hi,my stock 72 D engine 1200 in Ireland runs with German solex 30 pict 3 if that helps.
Hey Chris how can I fix my 30 pict 1 carb from leaking gas from the throttle arm
hmmm tough one, did you try to tighten the nut on the side there?
When I do tighten the nut on the side the arm doesn't go back to it's original position where it is barely touching the choke the arm will sit farther back ....is there any way to take off that arm ??
Blake Inglet hey bro just watched this video haha
The volume screw is 5 half turns out not 10. On a 34 pict 3 otherwise great info.
Cris what Carp is on a 1600 dual port I have a 34 pick 3 and a company says that is the wrong carburetor it's a 1970 bug type 1
I can't get it too idle at all I even bought a new carburetor 34 pick 3 same problem
I can't get it to idle Chris
@@treeman90022 No that is the right carb for a DP engine. The year of the car does not matter, what matters in the engine. You have a later engine in that 1970 bug. What distributor do you have in there?
@@classicvwbugs Hi Chris and thank you for the response very much The distributor looks like the ones that don't have a vacuum cylinder on the side of it so maybe that is the problem I'm going to do everything you told us to do in your video it runs good when I toggle the accelerator rapidly off and on and then I get the car going it runs good shifting per second and third but when I come to the stop the car will shut off thank you for helping me Chris God bless you and your family stay safe thank you for all your help you are a good person
@@classicvwbugs Hi Chris and thank you for the response very much The distributor looks like the ones that don't have a vacuum cylinder on the side of it so maybe that is the problem I'm going to do everything you told us to do in your video it runs good when I toggle the accelerator rapidly off and on and then I get the car going it runs good shifting per second and third but when I come to the stop the car will shut off thank you for helping me Chris God bless you and your family stay safe thank you for all your help you are a good person
one thing do not do is spray carb cleaner in the two holes by the throat and watch what happens .I have done that about 4 times always same thing ,get sprayed in the eyes.AAHH I CANT SEE.
what would u recommend if the bug engine starts but doesnt idle unless u keep foot on the gas?
I mention it in this video, and many other times, you need a good carb cleaning. I have a video on carb cleaning.
Joshua Brody try checking the float. Take off the top of the carb and see if it's sunken into the fuel. Maybe that is the issue. Or you might be running out of gas. ?
Love to lol lol lol
use plasma ignition ore waste spark ignition go lean as much as you like ore use vaporisation tehnology ore gasoline rediction chamber biger tube to the fuel botom smaler tube on the top of the fuel container ther you go drive all day on vapor
HOLD. THE CAMERA. STILL. Good Lord.
Yeah I hold it better in my other 600 vids.