Great video glad you replaced pto you would have run into other issues. That tractor is mint I'm sure your proud to drive around use thinking your grandfather be happy as well. Your place looks awesome I'm waiting for the new tractor to show up. Have a great day.
@@HumbleAcres My 41 Styled B, had a bent PTO shaft. When I restored it, I could not afford a replacement, so I built a plate to go over the PTO port. On my A, I replaced the back PTO safety mount plate and installed the Guards. You are right, The A is an easy tractor to work on! As far as the clutch goes... I would run the clutch pads down to where there is no more adjustment. Because your tractor and mine sat for so long, the clutch plates probably have pockets of rust. Its not going to hurt anything to let it play its course. Also, because the clutch cover is missing on both of our tractors, moisture does get in there! From time to time, you may want to drag our the compressor and blow out the loose dirt and dust in the clutch. As far as when it becomes tie to replace them... Its not too terribly hard to do, just expensive! Battery Issues: I bought a cheap solar panel off of amazon that I use on my Farmall Cub as a battery maintainer. I simply hook it up and set it on the seat or footboard, and in no time its charging my battery. Funny thing it that I have the tractor in a storage shed right now, and after a year of it being in there and hooked up the the panel, the battery has still maintained its charge!.
Regarding the clutch, not sure on the A because I've never worked on one, but I know they say about 50 lbs to engage and disengage the clutch is adequate. Not exactly sure how you measure that, I just go for a nice snap in and out. I use my tractor for heavy pulling around the far and tractor pulls, so I have the clutch pretty tight to make sure it holds. When you go to replace that clutch you'll have to look in a manual or something because there could be a hidden clutch plate behind the clutch driver. Have to remove the bolt in the center of the crank and pull it off to replace it. I redid the clutch on my 820 2 years ago because it was wore out and I wasn't going to bother looking at the hidden plate then apon talking with an older gentlemen about it I decided too and that hidden plate was broken. They are just held on by a tapered spine and can be extremely hard to get off. Good work, and good luck.
Doing the same to my 39 B restoration. My pto shaft is about 3 ft long and was also bent. You can't get the old seal so you have to put two lip seals opposing each other. It will seal. Might want to flush and replace your oil. I saw some pretty good discoloration in it.
oil needs replacing anyways, lots of water in it, it's milky! we used 10 weight for power troll, but you can't get it anymore! Clutch, one slot at a time
Putting the cover on the pully traps moisture inside and will cause everything inside to rust. If you are not using the tractor a couple times a week, leave the cover off.
Good work on your A, you may need to find instructions on the proper repair of the clutch. I've never looked, but they may have some manuals online. Keep up the good work.
You want somewhere around 80 foot pounds of pull on your clutch lever when you snap it back. When you engage and disengage your clutch you should have a pretty healthy snap. Also when adjusting the clutch have it engaged tighten it down snap it in and out a couple of times and tighten as needed. I promise you that your clutch ain't tight eough. You were just starting to get a faint pop. Please dont take anything I say wrong. I'm just trying to help you. We've all been places were not familiar with lol
@@HumbleAcres it dont gotta be exact. To be honest with you when I adjust mine I go by the snap and just try to imagine pulling on a torque wrench in my mind and go by feel. Also remember when you pull your clutch lever back to disengage you do it fast just like when you engage the clutch so when adjusting your clutch use your fast pull when ballparking your 80 foot pounds.
Now I want to fix my farmall m it needs about 700 dollars of parts rewire change seals and bearings in belly pump change ring gear ie starter ring gas tank tires then have fun proving my brothers mine is stronger
Like your videos man, im currently in the process of restoring a 1950 john deere a. Your videos have helped a ton
Great video glad you replaced pto you would have run into other issues. That tractor is mint I'm sure your proud to drive around use thinking your grandfather be happy as well. Your place looks awesome I'm waiting for the new tractor to show up. Have a great day.
See that wasn't bad! glad you were able to get the PTO figured out.
It was definitely easier than I thought it would be.
@@HumbleAcres My 41 Styled B, had a bent PTO shaft. When I restored it, I could not afford a replacement, so I built a plate to go over the PTO port. On my A, I replaced the back PTO safety mount plate and installed the Guards. You are right, The A is an easy tractor to work on! As far as the clutch goes... I would run the clutch pads down to where there is no more adjustment. Because your tractor and mine sat for so long, the clutch plates probably have pockets of rust. Its not going to hurt anything to let it play its course. Also, because the clutch cover is missing on both of our tractors, moisture does get in there! From time to time, you may want to drag our the compressor and blow out the loose dirt and dust in the clutch. As far as when it becomes tie to replace them... Its not too terribly hard to do, just expensive! Battery Issues: I bought a cheap solar panel off of amazon that I use on my Farmall Cub as a battery maintainer. I simply hook it up and set it on the seat or footboard, and in no time its charging my battery. Funny thing it that I have the tractor in a storage shed right now, and after a year of it being in there and hooked up the the panel, the battery has still maintained its charge!.
That pto went better than i thought. Like your videos on john deere a. I have 1951 john deere a that i fixing up.
Regarding the clutch, not sure on the A because I've never worked on one, but I know they say about 50 lbs to engage and disengage the clutch is adequate. Not exactly sure how you measure that, I just go for a nice snap in and out. I use my tractor for heavy pulling around the far and tractor pulls, so I have the clutch pretty tight to make sure it holds. When you go to replace that clutch you'll have to look in a manual or something because there could be a hidden clutch plate behind the clutch driver. Have to remove the bolt in the center of the crank and pull it off to replace it. I redid the clutch on my 820 2 years ago because it was wore out and I wasn't going to bother looking at the hidden plate then apon talking with an older gentlemen about it I decided too and that hidden plate was broken. They are just held on by a tapered spine and can be extremely hard to get off. Good work, and good luck.
Thanks for the info, I bought a manual so I will look through that before doing the clutch.
Great video budd
Any clean oil is good oil. You can mix and match on these old girls.
What the part number for the pto shaft? And where did you buy it from?
Doing the same to my 39 B restoration. My pto shaft is about 3 ft long and was also bent. You can't get the old seal so you have to put two lip seals opposing each other. It will seal. Might want to flush and replace your oil. I saw some pretty good discoloration in it.
I changed the oil, was much needed.
oil needs replacing anyways, lots of water in it, it's milky! we used 10 weight for power troll, but you can't get it anymore! Clutch, one slot at a time
It has since been changed.
Putting the cover on the pully traps moisture inside and will cause everything inside to rust. If you are not using the tractor a couple times a week, leave the cover off.
Good job! Do you have any plans on fully restoring the A?
Maybe eventually but don't have the money for something like that right now.
Good work on your A, you may need to find instructions on the proper repair of the clutch. I've never looked, but they may have some manuals online. Keep up the good work.
I did buy a manual. I will look into it more once I'm ready to do it.
Eventually, I think you’re going to have to rebuild that starter. It still sounds pretty rough.
Ya I don’t think it’s going to last much longer
You want somewhere around 80 foot pounds of pull on your clutch lever when you snap it back. When you engage and disengage your clutch you should have a pretty healthy snap. Also when adjusting the clutch have it engaged tighten it down snap it in and out a couple of times and tighten as needed. I promise you that your clutch ain't tight eough. You were just starting to get a faint pop. Please dont take anything I say wrong. I'm just trying to help you. We've all been places were not familiar with lol
Thank you for the info. I don’t have any way too measure the 80 ft pounds of pull but I will take a look at it.
@@HumbleAcres it dont gotta be exact. To be honest with you when I adjust mine I go by the snap and just try to imagine pulling on a torque wrench in my mind and go by feel. Also remember when you pull your clutch lever back to disengage you do it fast just like when you engage the clutch so when adjusting your clutch use your fast pull when ballparking your 80 foot pounds.
Humble i've never seen a p t o shaft wobble like that. I don't think you will ever put a heavy load on that a .
Now I want to fix my farmall m it needs about 700 dollars of parts rewire change seals and bearings in belly pump change ring gear ie starter ring gas tank tires then have fun proving my brothers mine is stronger