It's always funny to see how the same truck can still have differing flaws. My pirates 2 monster truck front diff went after a year and arms take a bearing fine only had to change then twice in a year and that's because I hit a pole 6times witch about 41-45 mph. And my cups front/rear diff cups have the same kind of damage as you have on the center diff. While my centerdiff is perfectly fine. I run a 3670 2850 kv 4s motor and run it both 3s and 4s how long depending on how full 3s packs are.
Amazing. You're able to take care of your ZD racing truck so well! Here's the link to the video of my latest wreck. Like it didn't take that much beating.
Nice video. Have you found any parts that are easily interchangeable with stronger ones? From Arrma / Traxxas etc? The wear on diff cups can be TIG welded...
Try using wd 40 on all the plastic parts, spray it on, let the plastic be soaked in for 24 hrs, and u will have some more flexibility on the cheap plastic
Same here.. I've always told myself to just do chill runs. But well i always get tempted to at least speed it up off road and hit some bumps. I'd break a C-hub or lose a screw in the suspension. It's really up to you. If you're having fun fixing stuff or improvising after almost each run, go get it. It's as fun as running it.
@@ianbudgetrc2574 I mean I don't quite fancy fixing it after very run 😂 I don't mind fix it once in a while as eventually everything breaks but if this is that fragile I might have to reconsider. I do have a FTX Outlaw which I do not consider as a great great car and so far only broke the think that attaches the arm to the rear axle, 3d printed a alternative one and is as good as new. If the 9021 V3 was as durable as the FTX under the same conditions I'd be quite happy with it, any idea?
@@wildjokerpt the ftx outlaw is durable and lightweight compared to the 8th scale zd. And the plastic quality of the ZD Racing is really bad. It's brittle and never flexible, especially the arms, steering cups, and C-hubs.. That's why you'd break it more than you'd play with it.. I'd be happy to have a 10th scale Basher that is much lighter and has good quality plastic
@@ianbudgetrc2574 interesting, in fact yeah the ZD might be quite heavy indeed. I was wondering if I should "upgrade" my FTX to aluminum, at least the majority of the parts, it would also give it a cool look but I don't know if I should do that or just get a new car. annoys me a bit that the FTX is over geared and since it has solid motor mounts I cannot adjust the mesh to use a smaller pinion. got a 3660 2600kv on the way to see how it goes with that one. Saw the FTX DR8 (think that's the name) and it is quite interesting but expensive as well, however if it was more durable than the ZD than it might be an option, thoughts?
@@wildjokerpt I think you could buy aftermarket adjustable motor mounts for that to gear it down a bit. There are only suitable parts to upgrade to aluminum: the shock tower, braces, steering hub, shock caps, but never the suspension arms if you wanna bash. I'm not really familiar with the dr8. I've seen some pics but I can't tell. Maybe it's better than the zD racing since it's FTX.
For the usual races in the yard, it should fit) People don't bash on it very much, everything is in your hands. What were your problems with this chassis? My lever broke in the front once, and that's it. They say that the steering is very fragile, but if you do not bash much, then this is far from the case :D very controversial car
Plenty. I exlplored everything this truggy could do. Dirt track racing, jump bash, mud and grass bash, speed run, onroad race, to casual offroad runs. I always ended up breaking a part or 2. I got videos of each of them. Guess I was way too harsh for trying to push it to its limits when it is only a budget car, which is not built as tough as the high end ones. But from those I learned a lot. So here's basically the summary of it 😂
@@Илья-с9м8т True. But over time, no matter how safe you drive it, the gears will eventually wear out. You'll end up changing the differentials, drive cups, etc. Hard to find stronger alternative or replacement parts for it
@@Илья-с9м8т If u want zd racing brand, I also recommend getting the buggy version. Pirates 3 or pirates 2 buggy. It breaks less coz of shorter arms, shorter wheelbase, and lighter weight. It also has less stress on gears coz of its small tires. It is faster, it is easier to control, and most of all, it is the cheapest
More than 50% of the time I've been on 3s on this RC. Just early this year I started using 4s. And just tested 8s twice, causing the breakdown of the diffs. If you run this on 3s, it will last for more than a year. Just don't put oversized tires with bigger than 150mm diameter.
@@ianbudgetrc2574 good call, would more top speed or more torque, smaller bigger pinnion gear, cause more or less wear on this car, or is it more on how ya drive it.
@@xKevmachinex without modifying the motor mount, the highest gear ratio u can set in this this rc is 17t pinion / 46t spur. I've Been using this high speed gearing ever since matched with 2000 to 2200 kv motor. Not so torquey. If u get a torquey motor (less than 2000kv), and a high speed gearing, you will destroy the gears much faster.
@@ianbudgetrc2574 Hey man, I am having trouble with mine, I need 4 of these cup like parts that these drive rods bars go into, theres 1 on the rear diff 2 on the center diff and 1 on the front diff and the bars go into all them created a drive line. the problem is they are getting chewed up and damaaged, the front one is the worst, its chewed up so bad that it flops down inside of the cup and pretty soon it will spin freely in there and won't turn the front diff. The promblem is I have now ordered 2 different parts and both won't fit, they were too small. any chance you had the same issue or know of the exact part number or link to the cups i need. its not the cups going to the tires, its the ones that run straight down the center of the rc. thanks man! hows your rc holding up?
oh yes, i just rewatched your video, its @9:09 except its all of the diffs for me the same cup is damaged like that. I was thinking of just jb welding them solid, but id rather not do this, because the bars are probably meant to have some play to them and not be solid. So far ive only broken the right lower suspension arm by driving into a wooden post, was about $7 usd to fix. and now these cups need attention, other then that its been a great rc for me!
@@ianbudgetrc2574 me too i like speed runs and tracks. That is why the durabilty of this RC is ok for me. Im choosing between Jlb cheetah, pirates 2 & 3 monster truck and this 9021.
@@nomore25 cheetah is fast out of the box. But u cannot upgrade it further as hard as u can upgrade the zd pirates truggy. the cheetah's drivetrain wouldn't be able to hold much stronger motors. Additionally, the cheetah is bad for track racing. It has no center differential. It has a very bad handling on the track. The jlb cheetah is only 1/10 scale. And it is way too overpriced for its scale I can show you the video of my ZD racing truggy racing against arrma talion, jlb cheetah, and race-spec nitro truggies.
Thank you. I only use 17t pinion. The mount fits well with the 17t pinion on. I guess you could use maximum of 19t pinion with the stock mount, without sacrificing a mount screw
@@hardyb311 you'd need both 2 screws to hold the motor mount firmly in place. Putting much bigger pinion (like 20 tooth) will require moving the motor mount outwards, giving no space for 1 screw. So, you would only be able to fit 1 screw into the mount if you'd use a pinion bigger than 19 tooth. You can do it if your 1 screw is strong enough to hold the motor mount. But I doubt if it could. The motor mount could wobble and get detached and it could destroy the pinion gear alignment in the process, or even destroy the motor itself..
@@ianbudgetrc2574 I'm check again but when i use both screws a 15t pinion is the biggest i can go using the top screw so the hole will line up but if i just use the screw on the side to lock the motor down i can fit a 17 or 18t pinion.
Honestly I cannot recommend it to everyone. It really depends if one wants to just run this around in circles or they want to bash it as hard as they could. It also depends on their budget. This car is only for safe drivers to light bashers. This is also good for those who want to keep on fixing and fortifying their RC cars like me.
@@Ajc606 you're welcome. Nice! Amazing. You should definitely get one of these. The pirates 2 line of ZD racing 1/8 scale. Could be this truggy or the monster truck one. :D
@@ianbudgetrc2574 Start punch to high? Or a bad charge! Also nice to see that your body break like mine. Maybe we should mount the upper suspension, diagonal? Season begins ;)
@@highme7934 punch is ok with 3s or 4s. But on 8s, it eats the gears faster. Yea we can experiment on the suspension positioning. 👍. I want to learn from you as well
thanks for sharing your experience. great help to whether to buy this truck.
I'm happy I'm able to help :). Thank you
That thing is in bad shape bro, but you still got it running! Nice work
Thank you. I'm gonna install other brand parts soon. I'll make it a bit tougher
It's always funny to see how the same truck can still have differing flaws. My pirates 2 monster truck front diff went after a year and arms take a bearing fine only had to change then twice in a year and that's because I hit a pole 6times witch about 41-45 mph. And my cups front/rear diff cups have the same kind of damage as you have on the center diff. While my centerdiff is perfectly fine. I run a 3670 2850 kv 4s motor and run it both 3s and 4s how long depending on how full 3s packs are.
Amazing. You're able to take care of your ZD racing truck so well!
Here's the link to the video of my latest wreck. Like it didn't take that much beating.
ua-cam.com/video/ndWmY5Wvo20/v-deo.html
Try Arrma Kraton front suspension it should fit in the same you need arms drive shafts and hexes and pillow balls and knuckles and it should work
Thank you. I will try them soon when my kraton arrives. I have ordered one for Christmas
Thank you for sharing 👍
You're welcome. Thanks for watching 😊
Nice video. Have you found any parts that are easily interchangeable with stronger ones? From Arrma / Traxxas etc? The wear on diff cups can be TIG welded...
I am still gonna find it out myself. But. My friends told me that the OFNA/hobao and Kyosho ones fit in the zd racing 1/8 rcs
Thank you
@@ianbudgetrc2574 Part numbers that actually fit would be extremely helpful!
@@thepilotxproject4035 I will surely post it once I find it. :)
thank you for the review
Thank you for watching brother. Hope it helps
Try using wd 40 on all the plastic parts, spray it on, let the plastic be soaked in for 24 hrs, and u will have some more flexibility on the cheap plastic
Hello, my friend. What oil do you advise for the diffs and suspension? I do not do so many jumps, I race on dirt roads. thank you
Sorry brother. I am no racer and I honestly don't know what oils you need. But I am certain that this 9021-v3 is not good for racing.
I'm now wondering if I should buy one or not 🤔 I don't bash too hard but sometimes I get carried away
Same here.. I've always told myself to just do chill runs. But well i always get tempted to at least speed it up off road and hit some bumps. I'd break a C-hub or lose a screw in the suspension.
It's really up to you. If you're having fun fixing stuff or improvising after almost each run, go get it. It's as fun as running it.
@@ianbudgetrc2574 I mean I don't quite fancy fixing it after very run 😂 I don't mind fix it once in a while as eventually everything breaks but if this is that fragile I might have to reconsider. I do have a FTX Outlaw which I do not consider as a great great car and so far only broke the think that attaches the arm to the rear axle, 3d printed a alternative one and is as good as new. If the 9021 V3 was as durable as the FTX under the same conditions I'd be quite happy with it, any idea?
@@wildjokerpt the ftx outlaw is durable and lightweight compared to the 8th scale zd. And the plastic quality of the ZD Racing is really bad. It's brittle and never flexible, especially the arms, steering cups, and C-hubs.. That's why you'd break it more than you'd play with it..
I'd be happy to have a 10th scale Basher that is much lighter and has good quality plastic
@@ianbudgetrc2574 interesting, in fact yeah the ZD might be quite heavy indeed. I was wondering if I should "upgrade" my FTX to aluminum, at least the majority of the parts, it would also give it a cool look but I don't know if I should do that or just get a new car. annoys me a bit that the FTX is over geared and since it has solid motor mounts I cannot adjust the mesh to use a smaller pinion. got a 3660 2600kv on the way to see how it goes with that one. Saw the FTX DR8 (think that's the name) and it is quite interesting but expensive as well, however if it was more durable than the ZD than it might be an option, thoughts?
@@wildjokerpt I think you could buy aftermarket adjustable motor mounts for that to gear it down a bit.
There are only suitable parts to upgrade to aluminum: the shock tower, braces, steering hub, shock caps, but never the suspension arms if you wanna bash.
I'm not really familiar with the dr8. I've seen some pics but I can't tell. Maybe it's better than the zD racing since it's FTX.
For the usual races in the yard, it should fit) People don't bash on it very much, everything is in your hands. What were your problems with this chassis? My lever broke in the front once, and that's it. They say that the steering is very fragile, but if you do not bash much, then this is far from the case :D very controversial car
Plenty. I exlplored everything this truggy could do. Dirt track racing, jump bash, mud and grass bash, speed run, onroad race, to casual offroad runs. I always ended up breaking a part or 2. I got videos of each of them. Guess I was way too harsh for trying to push it to its limits when it is only a budget car, which is not built as tough as the high end ones.
But from those I learned a lot. So here's basically the summary of it 😂
@@ianbudgetrc2574 For me, so a good budget option) for not strong races
@@Илья-с9м8т True. But over time, no matter how safe you drive it, the gears will eventually wear out. You'll end up changing the differentials, drive cups, etc. Hard to find stronger alternative or replacement parts for it
@@ianbudgetrc2574 So besides her what model can you recommend? Truggy or monster truck) an eight scale
@@Илья-с9м8т If u want zd racing brand, I also recommend getting the buggy version. Pirates 3 or pirates 2 buggy. It breaks less coz of shorter arms, shorter wheelbase, and lighter weight. It also has less stress on gears coz of its small tires. It is faster, it is easier to control, and most of all, it is the cheapest
what battery have you run in this? would only running a 3s save alot of these breaks and issues? im assuming you ran maybe a 4s or higher.
More than 50% of the time I've been on 3s on this RC. Just early this year I started using 4s. And just tested 8s twice, causing the breakdown of the diffs. If you run this on 3s, it will last for more than a year. Just don't put oversized tires with bigger than 150mm diameter.
@@ianbudgetrc2574 good call, would more top speed or more torque, smaller bigger pinnion gear, cause more or less wear on this car, or is it more on how ya drive it.
@@xKevmachinex without modifying the motor mount, the highest gear ratio u can set in this this rc is 17t pinion / 46t spur. I've Been using this high speed gearing ever since matched with 2000 to 2200 kv motor. Not so torquey.
If u get a torquey motor (less than 2000kv), and a high speed gearing, you will destroy the gears much faster.
@@ianbudgetrc2574 Hey man, I am having trouble with mine, I need 4 of these cup like parts that these drive rods bars go into, theres 1 on the rear diff 2 on the center diff and 1 on the front diff and the bars go into all them created a drive line. the problem is they are getting chewed up and damaaged, the front one is the worst, its chewed up so bad that it flops down inside of the cup and pretty soon it will spin freely in there and won't turn the front diff. The promblem is I have now ordered 2 different parts and both won't fit, they were too small. any chance you had the same issue or know of the exact part number or link to the cups i need. its not the cups going to the tires, its the ones that run straight down the center of the rc. thanks man! hows your rc holding up?
oh yes, i just rewatched your video, its @9:09 except its all of the diffs for me the same cup is damaged like that. I was thinking of just jb welding them solid, but id rather not do this, because the bars are probably meant to have some play to them and not be solid. So far ive only broken the right lower suspension arm by driving into a wooden post, was about $7 usd to fix. and now these cups need attention, other then that its been a great rc for me!
Hi mate! Is the wheelbase really 370mm? Which is longer than those monster truck version
Yes man. Its wheelbase is longer than the other zd racing 1/8s
@@ianbudgetrc2574 thanks mate! I love long wheelbase RCs. Hehe
@@nomore25 same here! It's ideal for straight line speed. I am more on doing speed runs.
@@ianbudgetrc2574 me too i like speed runs and tracks. That is why the durabilty of this RC is ok for me. Im choosing between Jlb cheetah, pirates 2 & 3 monster truck and this 9021.
@@nomore25 cheetah is fast out of the box. But u cannot upgrade it further as hard as u can upgrade the zd pirates truggy. the cheetah's drivetrain wouldn't be able to hold much stronger motors. Additionally, the cheetah is bad for track racing. It has no center differential. It has a very bad handling on the track. The jlb cheetah is only 1/10 scale. And it is way too overpriced for its scale
I can show you the video of my ZD racing truggy racing against arrma talion, jlb cheetah, and race-spec nitro truggies.
Question what size pinion did you use and how do u fit a 18t without using that top screw on the mount?
Thank you.
I only use 17t pinion. The mount fits well with the 17t pinion on.
I guess you could use maximum of 19t pinion with the stock mount, without sacrificing a mount screw
@@ianbudgetrc2574 So i don't need that top screw to install a bigger pinion?
@@hardyb311 you'd need both 2 screws to hold the motor mount firmly in place. Putting much bigger pinion (like 20 tooth) will require moving the motor mount outwards, giving no space for 1 screw. So, you would only be able to fit 1 screw into the mount if you'd use a pinion bigger than 19 tooth.
You can do it if your 1 screw is strong enough to hold the motor mount. But I doubt if it could. The motor mount could wobble and get detached and it could destroy the pinion gear alignment in the process, or even destroy the motor itself..
@@ianbudgetrc2574 I'm check again but when i use both screws a 15t pinion is the biggest i can go using the top screw so the hole will line up but if i just use the screw on the side to lock the motor down i can fit a 17 or 18t pinion.
@@hardyb311 that's strange. What model of rc is that?
Would you recommend this to others?
Honestly I cannot recommend it to everyone. It really depends if one wants to just run this around in circles or they want to bash it as hard as they could. It also depends on their budget.
This car is only for safe drivers to light bashers.
This is also good for those who want to keep on fixing and fortifying their RC cars like me.
@@ianbudgetrc2574 Thanks for your response. I'm definitely a safe driver, light basher. No jumps, just dirt and light mud.
@@Ajc606 you're welcome. Nice! Amazing. You should definitely get one of these. The pirates 2 line of ZD racing 1/8 scale. Could be this truggy or the monster truck one. :D
@@Ajc606 better get the pirates 3. Its more updated and has better parts.
@@ianbudgetrc2574 OK Thanks for that. Also, thanks for actually responding. A lot of folks post vids and ignore questions. Wtf!
Lmao
👍👀🇭🇷
You abused this thing with 8S. Its designed fo 4s. Much more weight much more power much more wear
True, brother. Something I knew and I expected to happen beforehand. Cheers
I only ran this on 8s for 2 times only tho
@@ianbudgetrc2574 The other times on 6s? I also had some metal upper front arms made by myself, but no other issues
@@highme7934 only ran it on 3s to 4s. 80% of the time on 3s. It was fine.
@@ianbudgetrc2574 Start punch to high? Or a bad charge! Also nice to see that your body break like mine. Maybe we should mount the upper suspension, diagonal? Season begins ;)
@@highme7934 punch is ok with 3s or 4s. But on 8s, it eats the gears faster. Yea we can experiment on the suspension positioning. 👍. I want to learn from you as well