Should have taken off little earlier. The nearer to the shore and the bigger the deeper a take off makes sense. Hope he is ok. Being slammed into the ground like that isn’t good fun
It happens but its not the norm. He might have got unlucky, or he was inexperienced.Eitherway I grew up going to surf the wedge and we learned to fall 6 ft days so we could surf the 20ft+ days.
😂 graduated from Los Al high'88, We on one Dude wearing a halo after breaking his neck at the wedge 😔 The cool factor was through the roof... Poor bastard😂
In hossegor i got exactly the same experience but my board went into the sand first and i have been projected by the wave onto it. Result : 2 broken ribs 😂 2 years later when i run i can still feel it
When wedge is up only extra experience 🏄♂️ you have to be able to take off or you will go over the falls. People die every year here because they don’t realize how fast it closes out. It slams you in the sand feels like asphalt.
Only place I kno where you sometimes have 10 ft plus waved jack up and crash down on the beach (literally in-between ankle to knee deep water) dangerous break get your neck or back broken and end up paralyzed and in a wheelchair for the rest of your live
My uncle did this body surfing in hawaii in his younger years. He almost died. He got slammed into the shore, broke his back, and almost drowned. He said he was lucky that the beach was packed that day. With people dragging his semi paralyzed body. He told one of the guys not to call ambulance and just drive him to the hospital. He can still walk, but he describes a lot of nerve pain from then till now.
@@jasonrentaponga7805 I lived close to the Wedge for more than 35 years, and went over the place no more than 10 times in my younger years. There were so many safer breaks around Newport/Huntington Beach. One of my close friends, after slamming in the sands, he was in sharp pains with his neck for weeks. He was lucky.
"Over the Falls" is what some of us called it in Hawai'i. I had one such experience while surfing that resulted in the nose of my board being sliced off like a hot knife going through butter! Fortunately I remained unscathed! 👍🙏🏄😊
That has to be the “wedge” only wave I’ve ever seen break like that…my dad used to live on balboa island and when I visited it was like a 10 min bike ride. I haven’t been there in 30 yrs but it looks like it breaks the same.
Surfed this but bigger back in the 70s wave after wave . I kept saying just one more .it was that one more that finally caught up with me lost most of the meat off both knees. At the hospital, the doctor asked, "So how was it .I replied big . He then said, "Don't know how I'm supposed to fix this, lol. I was 16, . It took over 3 months for skin to cover the holes., Couldn't wait to get back in the water I'm 65 now and still surfing most everyday. Just not the Wedge. Lol
@antoinev9733 if you're not familiar with the Wedge. It's a popular bodysurfing spot in So California, taken over by sponge 🧽 riders that some crazy surfers like to challenge. Sometimes you win sometimes you lose. It gets crazy big and can break you into pieces and wash you up on the beach at the same time. It's your basic pay to play spot. A big wave with sand at the bottom, lol. Worst place to go over the falls.
@@Waterman.58 lol i experienced that allready 😁 the kind of "take a cofee first" wave 😆😆😆 but it is funny :) sometimes when it is too big " behind" i used to do :) i have great memories ... of any kind 🤣🤣🤣
You can imagine the Earth without water, as water balances the shape of the Earth, its rotation around itself, and around the sun. Tides are considered a safety valve for the Earth and its rotation. As the water melts, the Earth slows down its rotation. Water has increased due to the melting of the ice caps in the poles and the Himalayas, and thus, the rotational force also increases... Now: The length of the year now is [365 1/4 +_(2 minutes)]... These studies were completed and sent on July 26, 2000... Yousif Ayoub Tobiya
Anyone surfing the Wedge knows what the risk is. Couple decades ago I was bodysurfing it was only about a 12' face I got launched I thought I broke my collarbone I was sore for a week.
10 feet off shore is definitely the ideal spot to catch a big wave
Yea helll nooo concussion is calling
Should have taken off little earlier. The nearer to the shore and the bigger the deeper a take off makes sense. Hope he is ok. Being slammed into the ground like that isn’t good fun
too much sand in the water😮
I’m not a surfer, but I had a blast, jumping in waves just like this I wasn’t getting no concussions or getting hurt. I don’t understand.
@@nathangreen1692 that wave slams into the sand... not water... therfore not ideal if u r in it...
the wedge handing out wedgies.
or broken backs.
Gotta love long beach baby🤣🤣🤣
That’s not the Wedge though.
The lady: "Im trying to get my son to surfboard.. Nvm"
Safer than snowboarding technically speaking
@@SkeemoSkisyou sound like a liberal 😂
@Daveeeeeeyhowyoudoing I don't believe in politics but good try
Never said "nvm" take it out of the quotes
@@wesgeiger2037 my bad damn 😂
No lie, yesterday smaller Wedge day, old bodysurfer smashed his face on sand, knocked out a tooth, put it in his backpack, swam back out.
Liar
@@jimmycricketlopez2746why r u calling him a liar?
@@dayliaaa
I think it’s because the second guy thought that the first comment was not true
@@JB-fp5ud oh ok
@@dayliaaacan you not read correctly unless someone doubles down😂
You know you're doing it right at The Wedge when the entire beach gasps in horror!🤣
Yessir...that was GNARLY!
It's like getting everyone's attention in NYC. You really gotta earn it.
That's not the wedge.... that's Seal Beach Shorebreak....when I say Shorebreak I'm saying Shorebreak
That's Seal Beach
😂😂😂
They still digging in the sand trying to find him.😂😂😂
Legend has it he popped out of the surf just fine....in China...🤣
He smacked the sandy bottom for sure.
He = ( wiped out ) the real old song lol love it never give up! Enjoying the moment keep going its the best feeling ,,,,,,,
A taste of how Wiley Coyote feels every day......
Never seen a wave breaking so close to the beach.
🤔 What? never seen shore break before? 😅
Where i live there are only waves in deep water
Optical illusion you are seeing a hill before the beach
Here in portugal in some beaches we get even bigger ones
Nope@@Teal-c
Ive done this 40 years ago, it hurt, but mostly my feelings. Had sand up my you know what! 😊😂😂😂
Me too, 45 actually. Its the wedge isn't it ?
Up your urethra
Nose???
@@99.9percent9asshole
Your butt? You can say it man.
He'll be shitting out and coughing up sea shells for a week after that
Guy down the street from me is paralyzed from the wedge. No thanks
It happens but its not the norm. He might have got unlucky, or he was inexperienced.Eitherway I grew up going to surf the wedge and we learned to fall 6 ft days so we could surf the 20ft+ days.
😂 graduated from Los Al high'88, We on one Dude wearing a halo after breaking his neck at the wedge 😔 The cool factor was through the roof... Poor bastard😂
it’s okay guys the wave was just feeding him some sand 🥰😊
U got me wheezing rn
🌊🌊
Looked like it tried to feed him TO the sand.
Over da falls and into the washing machine brah.
日本人です
このショアブレイクで🌊
テイクオフする考え方が貴方は素晴らしい🤙
🌺ありがとう🌸🍒
日本で大きな波がある場所 ?
Wedge eats another yum yum
The waves were huge in oceannside today. Im a beginner surfer and i said "aw hell nah" when i tried to paddle out
Where this video was filmed?
In hossegor i got exactly the same experience but my board went into the sand first and i have been projected by the wave onto it. Result : 2 broken ribs 😂 2 years later when i run i can still feel it
The wedge is a notorious bone breaker, like 10th Street in south Laguna........
When wedge is up only extra experience 🏄♂️ you have to be able to take off or you will go over the falls. People die every year here because they don’t realize how fast it closes out. It slams you in the sand feels like asphalt.
Who thinks they can paddle fast enuf for that, like u could tell from the start it was a bad idea
Bruh got pitted, so pitted.
And bleached😅
Wapaaauu
Hwwoopa
A tad too relaxed on the paddle in!
His surfboard just went flying into the parking lot right onto the top of his car like “let’s fuükn go ur embarrassing the shît out of us!”
Bad idea when that close to the beach.
He was just too lazy to paddle out.😂😂😂
@@localeboy808all the waves at the wedge are that close to the beach. There is a long jetty just to the left of wave. It’s crazy
usually they take off at the tipi where there is more water, not on closeout by the sand
@@M_Baker9ersFan that’s a big no for me. I know I’ll be fkd up if I tried surfing there.🤣
@@localeboy808 people do get messed up pretty bad there all the time
Only place I kno where you sometimes have 10 ft plus waved jack up and crash down on the beach (literally in-between ankle to knee deep water) dangerous break get your neck or back broken and end up paralyzed and in a wheelchair for the rest of your live
Waimea bay shore break is even gnarlier
The tongue of the ocean spitting him out.
Hawk Tuah!
I almost died there when I was 13 yo! Good times!
Tell the story brah
Me too!
It's the sudden stop that hurts.
Legends say he’s still falling
I remembered how paiful was my first jump from just from 1 meter because I jumped WRONG! I am now feeling his pain.
The way that wave tossed him. At least he did something I wouldn't do, he tried. 🤗🥰
I hate paddling out more than 15 feet to catch waves
Haole oldhead poser
Krook snake😂😂
Know that feeling! That hurts!
The commitment!!! 😮
he's going to have to start dumping fish food in the ocean to quell the source of the wrath enacted on him on that fateful day
"When the wave breaks here, don't be there, or you're gonna get drilled!" -Turtle
Hammered but total props . This man has definitely got what it takes to charge big
Absolutely TOrChEd 😂😂😂
That look crazy and a liddle bit dangerous
I really hope that he is OK and nothing broken!?! And awesome video, LOVE IT ❤️
Oooooofff, felt that one 😮
Man took 3 shipping days to pop-up
nothing worse than getting pancaked by a wave on hard sand
getting pancacked by rocks ??
Wave said.." take that brother"
Now that’s what I call gettin clapped by the waves 👏
My uncle did this body surfing in hawaii in his younger years. He almost died. He got slammed into the shore, broke his back, and almost drowned. He said he was lucky that the beach was packed that day. With people dragging his semi paralyzed body. He told one of the guys not to call ambulance and just drive him to the hospital. He can still walk, but he describes a lot of nerve pain from then till now.
❤❤ Que locazooo!!!
Bro had the guts to surf that wave
There was no outlet for that wave. That surfer is a nut.
Watch footage of the wedge. This is all day long when it’s big
@@jasonrentaponga7805 I lived close to the Wedge for more than 35 years, and went over the place no more than 10 times in my younger years. There were so many safer breaks around Newport/Huntington Beach. One of my close friends, after slamming in the sands, he was in sharp pains with his neck for weeks.
He was lucky.
Surfer who watched too many shark attack videos:
Bogu hvala živ si🤩👍👍
Surfer becomes the lip and gets annihilated! He hits,then a building crashes down on him a moment later.
Hey! Yea you, Buddy! Come over here...
you're doing it wrong😂😂😂
There's skill, and then there's this. What was his thought process on catching and riding this wave.
This is a great example video of what NOT to do when surfing 😅
Pensamento???Cabeça vazia...
"Over the Falls" is what some of us called it in Hawai'i. I had one such experience while surfing that resulted in the nose of my board being sliced off like a hot knife going through butter! Fortunately I remained unscathed! 👍🙏🏄😊
"If you're gonna be dumb, you gotta be tough!"
Dude is still spitting sand out of all different kinds of places.
If'n he had a little boogie board, he'd just had da best wave.
This dude just got smashed 🤣👑🤙
And let’s eat the beach!!😂😂😂😂❤
Be safe. Thats so dangerous
Man ive done this on a wave a half to a third the size of that one and it sucked, that looked brutal 😅
That has to be the “wedge” only wave I’ve ever seen break like that…my dad used to live on balboa island and when I visited it was like a 10 min bike ride. I haven’t been there in 30 yrs but it looks like it breaks the same.
I got a nice raspberry on my shoulder body surfing a tropical storm shore break at Wrightsville Beach, NC.
That’s my hometown
Happens a lot at the Wedge: either backwash or too much water coming up the face to get below vert. 🧜♂️
Surfed this but bigger back in the 70s wave after wave . I kept saying just one more .it was that one more that finally caught up with me lost most of the meat off both knees. At the hospital, the doctor asked, "So how was it .I replied big . He then said, "Don't know how I'm supposed to fix this, lol. I was 16, . It took over 3 months for skin to cover the holes., Couldn't wait to get back in the water
I'm 65 now and still surfing most everyday. Just not the Wedge. Lol
what do you call "wedge" ? " shorebreak ? :)
@antoinev9733 if you're not familiar with the Wedge. It's a popular bodysurfing spot in So California, taken over by sponge 🧽 riders that some crazy surfers like to challenge. Sometimes you win sometimes you lose. It gets crazy big and can break you into pieces and wash you up on the beach at the same time. It's your basic pay to play spot. A big wave with sand at the bottom, lol. Worst place to go over the falls.
@@Waterman.58 lol i experienced that allready 😁 the kind of "take a cofee first" wave 😆😆😆
but it is funny :)
sometimes when it is too big " behind" i used to do :)
i have great memories ... of any kind 🤣🤣🤣
Reminds me of Sandy Beach!
😳 Oh he DEFINITELY hit bottom. 💯
Major OTF!! Dude, you'll be digging sand out of all orifices for weeks.
Turbo muito forte ❤❤❤
That thing defying physics.
I felt that
I hope the surfer is okay!
Severed cord and broken vertebras
He was a good man.
That wave wallled out ouch🤬🤬🤬🌊🤪👣💯🤙
Bro went to the twelve dimension underwater🤣😄😂😂😂🏄🏾♀️🏄🏄♂️🏄♂️🏄♂️
That place is just to shallow to take off on a monster beach break like the wedge .I've seen that literally hundreds of times here if not thousands
That is weird to see that big of wave crash on 3” of water, and sand...🚧💪🏽‼️
I got pounded hard by The Wedge when I was 18. I still can't turn my head all the way to the left without pinching a nerve and hearing it grind.
You can imagine the Earth without water, as water balances the shape of the Earth, its rotation around itself, and around the sun. Tides are considered a safety valve for the Earth and its rotation.
As the water melts, the Earth slows down its rotation.
Water has increased due to the melting of the ice caps in the poles and the Himalayas, and thus, the rotational force also increases...
Now: The length of the year now is [365 1/4 +_(2 minutes)]...
These studies were completed and sent on July 26, 2000...
Yousif Ayoub Tobiya
Impressive wipeout! 10 out of 10
😂😂😂~Oh When ShePoundsTheSurf🌊💨🌊💨🌊💨GotLotsToSay 🥰😁🥰😁🥰
Nice floater!
Lesson learned
Welcome to the Sand Bar!
Can I get you a drink
Good job😊
Потрясающе!!!
Getting schooled is part of learning.
Where does one go for waves this big. Everywhere I've been doesn't go over 6 feet plus
So much fun when your young
That's a back breaker. Literally.
Anyone surfing the Wedge knows what the risk is. Couple decades ago I was bodysurfing it was only about a 12' face I got launched I thought I broke my collarbone I was sore for a week.
This gives me flashbacks to club penguin
Why is this wave so big compared to the other ones
Nah the wave was like: GET OUT OF MY WAY
I took a pounding like that at Waimea. Those dang shore breaks. Takes away your breath, shorts, bikini top,... 🤣🤣🤣
Menudo chapuzón, espero que todo haya salido bien....🌹
I felt it.
Beautiful