Adding a Vevor 3-Jaw Chuck to my Rotary Table for less that $75 buck!
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- Опубліковано 4 жов 2024
- VEVOR Metal Lathe Chuck: bit.ly/3DdFp3X
Coupon Codes (any product) VVSHARE to save 5$ off, VVPRO to get 5% off
Gear Indexing on a Lathe: • Simple Indexing on a M...
Tool Post Drill: • Tool Post Drill - Easy...
Great build Winky! I think I'd drill and tap a couple 1/4in holes in the back plate for jacking screws in case the taper pin gets tight.
That might be a good idea although I can drive it out from the back. Of course this requires removing the table from the mill.
good idea I'll do that today
Jeez, that is a beautiful restoration on your lathe. Thank you for posting all your useful videos.
Thank you very much! It was a lot of work. I got that lathe for $100 bucks but it was in terrible shape and missing most the tail stock. However, I love restoring these machines. ua-cam.com/video/vrXBkqC6ttc/v-deo.html
Per the struggles in the beginning, you might try using sharp HSS to turn that big piece of steel that slow, you’ll have to watch your temperature of course. That carbide insert cutter was sabatoging the whole operation :)
Yeah, the carbide isn't as sharp but it sure is easy.
Did the same job a year ago, didn't have your drill set up so used the rotary table to drill the holes on the mill. I used new surplus tractor loader frame for the steel. Good little project and used it right away on another project. Thanks
Thanks, I have not used mine yet but I will.
Great outcome there Winky. A very useful tool. I use the chucks off my Craftsman lathe with a threaded mount on one end of a Morse taper since the chucks are screw on type. Then I screw in a bolt from the back of the rotary table to be sure the Morse taper does not let go under stress. Keep on keeping on.
I wasn't sure if others did the same with the taper. I think it will be nice to use.
Good method, I mounted the backing plate the same way but needed a lock nut on the thread that went through it then the chuck mounts over that, very solid, don't need tee nuts. I also use 2mt collets in the rotary table with a short bolt at the back as a draw bar. Thanks for posting, I am glad someone else used the same technique.
@ approx 21:00 Screw it into a nut , square or hex , which ever you need & use it to index for milling flats.
Love your videos
I plan to do something like this with a 4 jaw ( non independent ) for mounting to my mill table.
I like the nut idea! Also a 4-jaw would probably be the best but I like the ease of the 3 jaw.
The cost of the update and the added features it will bring you on Your mill will be interesting to see in future videos. I can think of a lot of projects. If I have the time and materials I might even build one for my rotary table. Changing the subject, I bought one of the tach shown in your last video. Haven't had time to install it yet! But, I'm thinking I might get a second tach for my mill. KOKO!
I was thinking the same on the tac. Yeah... i think it will be useful. Thanks for the comment!
Love that tool post drill.
Thanks... I've used it a lot.
Very Nice set up and execution... Great job Winky....
Thank you! 🤗
Nice addition to the RT.
I've got an 8" chuck that bolts thru the face into the tee nuts in the RT. I've made a MT3 bar that goes into the center of the RT and then I clamp the chuck jaws to that and tighten the mounting bolts. Open the chuck and remove the mounting bar. First time I used it, the bar got locked in the taper and I struggled to get it out. I've now tapped the end of the bar so I can jack it out. An 8" RT & the mounted chuck get pretty heavy! I cast an aluminum table & put 8 Tee Slots in it. I was always running out of room to clamp odd shaped parts.
I overlooked that alignment option. I like that! Much easier!
Well done.
I was lucky to buy a 5" rotary table including the centering tap from one place and a 5" 3 jaw, from another place including a base plate and they fit perfectly. Now digitizing that table.
Cool... digital control would be nice.
To make a hex in the end of the taper for removal, I've used a 5/16 hex key cut off and hollow sharpened as a broach / chisel. Add to clean out the hole with a drill a couple times
I've done the same cutting keyways but I'll probably just drill a hole through it and use a pin as a wrench. I might try that in the future.
Great Job Mark. I built a Boring Bar Holder Drill after watching your other Video about making one. I love it. I’m waiting until I can get a better Lathe before making a Indexer. The Indexer sure makes it a Lot easier to do Bolt Patterns. Thanks for the Video. I hope you and your Family have a Wonderful Christmas and New Year.👍❤️
Very cool. Great to hear. The tool post drill is very handy.
This will be a great milling machine accessory. Now with this tool, you probably won't use your lathe for bolt circle drilling if the work can fit in the rotary table with the 3 jaw chuck.
My number 1 use of the rotary table with a three jaw mounted is to put hex flats on round bar. Number 2 is indexing bolt circles. I would like to see a runout measurement on that Vevor chuck, just to see how good or bad it is. Every 3 jaw chuck that has come with the two import lathes I have, had runouts in the 18 to 35 thou range. I did find one vendor of affordable import that has a symbol of the planet Saturn with a ring around it, that of the 3 chucks I got from them (a 4 jaw, two 3 jaw), and one 5C spin index, had quality fits and runouts. But it appears that quality on low end imports tooling has gotten better.
The run out would have been good to include! I have a 5 inch for my south bend. It's the exact same chuck but with a different brand. It's amazingly accurate although it seems to change slightly when I loosen and retighten. Most often I turn on the lathe, if it looks like its wobbling i loosen and retighten. It's not a lot but enough to see. For the price I'm okay with it.
@@WinkysWorkshop I'm glad I got my Bison brand chucks when they were affordable ( over 18 years ago, and I was working). I looked at the prices a few months ago, what a shock over 3x what I paid. I'm always messing around with how I tighten work in the 3 jaws, especially if the piece is shorter then the jaw length.
I like your ER chuck on the lathe. I still have to make a backplate for the ER50 I got. But sadly everything has a horrible runout. The collets I got off AliExpress, they advertised runout less then 0.01mm (~0.0004), what a lie. And the chuck I got off eBay was worse, between the front and rear taper they were ground so that anything clamped would not only runout eccentric, but with a conical runout, so the farther from the chuck the work piece is, the more the runout. That was last year. When I get back to that project, I'll have to use my tool post grinder to make things concentric. Back when ENCO was still alive, I got a set of 5C and R8 collets from them that are pretty darn good. I'm pretty sure that what I got from AliExpress was 'hand selected junk' as the good ones were kept. They don't scrap anything, just sell it to fools. Smarter then me.
@@f.hababorbitz I'm happy with the cheaper chucks but if I was in a production shop I'd pay for the Bison. My collet chuck and nut were bought in eBay and the collets from All Industrial. The chuck was off slightly but not much. I put a .001 shim under one edge and now it's very near perfect. The Collet are absolutely amazing. Everyone I have used has been dead on perfect. The entire set up to 1" by 1/32" was $120.
Now see what you've gone and done? Another project I have to add to the list. 😆👍 After working as a machinist for 40 years you'd think I'd had enough, but I find I miss it. ( Just not every day ) Be glad when I get my shop built. Thanks for the great vids.
Thanks and thanks for watching!
I added an 8" 3 jaw to a 8" rotary table in 2019. It's seen tons of uses for all sorts of things. Once you have one, you discover it solves all sorts of problems for you. You've probably seen this video before. With a 3 jaw, anything already cylindrical or divisible by 3 sides is probably already pretty close to concentric and you just hold it in the chuck for bolt circles.
ua-cam.com/video/CxFHU7NxRWE/v-deo.html
@@de-bodgery Yep... I met Mr. Pete last year, he is a good one!
@@WinkysWorkshop i've never met him, just watch his content.
I haven't watched your videos in a while. I've done this myself. I used a threaded hole in the center of the disc and used jam nuts and washers on either side of the disc to lock it to the bolt. Still can't make heavy cuts, but it was enough to let me turn the circumference.
Cool... if it works!
Instead of turning down the end of the MT, you can just mill or grind a couple of flats on the end, that way you can use a wrench to unscrew the center.
That would have been better but holding the taper to mill the end is difficult.
Winky. Don't bother doing a hex to unscrew the arbor. Just drill a hole for a tommy bar. Great outcome by the way. Regards from Australia.
I was thinking the same but I'm calling mine Jimmy. :o) I never knew they had a name.
Mark I can honestly say that I always get good quality and good results with Vevor products, so far, I have Drill Bit drawers 2 of each Their 8" rotary table and their mill vice. And I am happy with the quality price and shipping time on all 4 items. Thanks for the video.
Sometime there are issues but for the price I am willing to adapt as needed. The lead screws in my Vevor mill table were terrible. The chucks are amazing quality. Although, the through holes are small. I used a boring bar and opened up the bore on my 5" to 1-1/2". It didn't seem to hurt anything. I think the original hole was about 1"
I am not particularly happy that with their mini-lathe there is an aluminum compound (an extrusion that is not even machined - just assembled as extruded) and tailstock (casting) instead of cast iron, but with the cost I was expecting corners to have been cut. The other items I have purchased from them (chucks, tooling) are better values, but it is hard to use the accessories given the flaws of the lathe itself.
@@r2db I'd say it is hit and miss but I agree, a lathe needs to be very solid. Aluminum is not good.
using tools previously made to make more tools ..... sounds like heaven on earth 👍👍😎👍👍
Haha... I never thought of it that way but I think you are right.
Nice work,Mark.Just like mine.I need to use it more.Tank you.
Thanks!
I've been curious on these chucks. I have a 8 inch rotary table. And I made a 8 inch plate from heat treated 8620 that was a scrap piece at work. They said I could have it so I used it and made it on my Okuma lathe at work. Even put all the thru and counter sunk holes in it too! I've been putting off buying a chuck as money is tight. I may consider a vevor chuck more now!
These Chinese chucks are actually pretty good but they do have a couple negatives. The jaws are soft. I don't mind this but it maybe an issue to some. Also the through hole between the jaws is small. I can't remember what my 4" is but my 5" was about 1" until I bored it. I actually opened the jaws and did it with a boring bar. I think I opened it up to 1.5". There is a cover under the backing plate held on with small screws and I got into the screw bore. If I ever take is apart I'll have to figure out a way to fix this. I don't want to through away money but I was willing to take a chance on a $70 chuck. So far its working great.... both of them.
You got off easy with mounting the adapter plate to the rotary table! My 3 jaw chuck is 8" and so is my rotary table. I screw the adapter direct into the chuck like you are doing but with spacers between the chuck and the plate. I can't index the plate to the chuck. In the gap between the plate and chuck I have just enough room to tread down nuts. They thread onto 4 studs in the T nuts in the table. There is no practical way to index all of it like you can. Instead, when I mount the chuck to the table, I spend some time tapping in center with a large mill in the chuck jaws. About all I can guarantee is that the adapter plate isn't angled slightly to the back of the chuck. I zeroed that in a long time ago and never touch it. I was really hoping you'd have a chuck the same size as your rotary table and see if you had come up with a less finicky set up than I did. zeroing in center on my setup does take some time. Tighten a nut and it throws the whole thing off again. I spend a lot of time recentering whenever I add the 3 jaw to the table!
Yeah... that is why I got the smaller chuck. I considered using a larger chuck with a back plate that had tabs sticking out that lined up with the slots in the table. You could slim bars in the slots and bolt the tabs to the bar. As long as you had a taper in the center it would help very well.
@@WinkysWorkshop I needed the 8" chuck so there wasn't much choice for me. I needed to do some rework on some cast aluminum wheels that have a 12" tire bead. I needed larger chuck to hold those rims. I'd like a better mounting solution, but I don't know what it is so I just suffer along with the finicky setup I have now until I get it running concentric again.
Winky. That's a Funny looking 4 FOUR jaw chuck. 😊Regards from Australia.
It identifies as a 4 jaw
Definitely been scammed…..There’s a jaw missing 😂😂
Maybe meant 4 inch 3 jaw.
DANG! Fixing Now!
@@WinkysWorkshop we only do it for the love of the channel ❤️
Nice project.
The steel in the chuck mounting plate looks pretty good, by the finish it had.
Did you think about finishing the mounting surface side?
Definitely going to be a useful addition.
Have a great day.
Take care, Ed.
It looked a little stained but it was very flat. I guess it would have looked better if I have flipped it over and finished it.
hi wink,
this was a very interesting video.and i like the way you explain everything....and a job well done,this is one tool i think everyone should get in thier arsenal.well Mark you take care till next time stay safe
Glad you liked it, thanks you very much.
Great video winky, I need a 4" for my old craftsman 7×12...
Thanks, i think you would be happy with this chuck.
Hello Winky, I like it! 😷👍👍👍👍👍
Hey, thanks
Great work Mate. Chuck is good value, when you think about it it is just a three jawed vice in this application. If you do it again the register on the back of the chuck is 72 mm which is one of the standards, bolt circle 84mm I think. 4 jawed can be very handy too. I wish I had of watched this before I mounted one.
mm? What is that? Ha, I'm kidding. Thanks for watching!
Thanks for sharing. Great video.
Thanks for watching!
buen trabajo como siempre con ese plato horizontal
Gracias
13:07...THAT'S REALLY CLEVER!!!
Thanks
Im thinking about putting a 4 jaw chuck on mine so I can hold square parts and do weird things with it.
That might actually be better just slow to align if you want it centered
👍
Thanks~!
What is the Morse taper of the spindle on your 11 inch South Bend Lathe?
No 3. I've heard some say it is not but a 3 fits well. It is a little deep however.
@@WinkysWorkshop Thanks for taking the time to answer this question for me. I appreciate it.
@@cleophusA You're welcome. I try to reply to all comments although I occasionally miss a few.
could you mount that chuck (well... maybe not that one) on a 12" drill press for some feather wait turning operation on aluminum...?
Interesting idea although I suspect you'd have some problems with making things solid enough.
I wondered since the back of the adapter plate was not finished if it sets flat on the rotary table.
I probably should have cleaned it up a little better but it does sit flat.
@@WinkysWorkshop I ordered one of those chucks since mine is only 3". I have a four jaw with an adapter plate to fit my little lathe so I hope it works on the new 3 jaw as well. Interesting in the chuck description they did not seem to give the back recess diameter. Although you gave the size in Inches my guess is that it may be metric.👍
@@gvet47 Metric for sure but my lathe and mill are both inch. I think the specs are on the vevor web page. I remember I printed the page for the bolt circle diameter.
Hey winky! Love the video. I've been trying to locate where you bought the flat belt for your lathe.i need to replace mine.
You can buy belts with clips but glued belts are better. What kind of lathe do you have. The pre-spliced belts are best. Some lathes like my south bend are easy to change but many lathes with roller or ball bearings are a lot of work. I worked for a printing company and had access to the glue and heater to make splices so it was easy to install a belt on any lathe. The problem is, the heater to makes these splices are about $700-$1000. I have no good answer but google flat belts... you might find something.
@@WinkysWorkshop ok gotcha
I have a old seneca. Very similar to your south bend.
@@thercbarn5001 I love these old machines! Send me an email, maybe I can help you out. winkysworkshop@GMX.com
@@WinkysWorkshop sent a email to you
we likey....cheers, Paul
Thanks!
❤Great video
Thank you!
11:18...I'd have used a transfer punch to mark the holes.
You mean the type that threads into the hole in the chuck. Me too but I didn't have any.
@@WinkysWorkshop ....no, not those.
@@daleburrell6273 The chuck had no through holes to used a standard transfer punch. Maybe I'm not understanding.
@@WinkysWorkshop ...well, you did a HECK of a job with what you had to work with-(!)
@@daleburrell6273 thanks!
The reason it's so cheap is it's missing a jaw! :)
The 4 jaws are cheaper I think. A 4-jaw would be useful but for most things this 3-jaw will be fine. If I need to dead center perfect I can remove the taper and tap is one way or the other to get it true.
I just realized what you were talking about. I fixed it, thanks!
@@WinkysWorkshop Great video I was just teasing! As always I learned something!
@@ScottDube1 Not a problem! That's how i took it. Thanks
Do you really like your rotary table and would you suggest it? There seems to be a lot of cheap ones out there…
I guess it depend on your needs and what you plan on doing with it. If you plan on positioning holes it's fine. It's plenty accurate. Maybe even light milling but they will not handle any kind of heavy milling. I stripped the gear in mine milling a 3/8 steel round. That's why I used my lathe to make the face plate round. Thankfully Grizzly had them for about $80 bucks.
@@WinkysWorkshop great to know!
@@WinkysWorkshop
There’s a book on Amazon by “ The Moore Special Tool Co. that includes “Woodworth Circular Tables” for rectangular coordinates for 3 to 99 holes. You use your calculator and the numbers in the correct table to find the X and Y coordinates for the bolt hole pattern you wish to drill. I purchased this book new and have used the tables many times. X and Y coordinates are more accurate than rotary coordinates. Amazons price is $49 softback and $59 hardback. The part remains stationary and no rotary table is needed.
@@ellieprice363 Respectfully, I'm sure it's an interesting book and useful in many ways but being more accurate that a rotary table is theoretical. The math and locations are not the problem. The problem comes in laying out the holes, marking them and then drilling them. Of course you could use the X and Y coordinate on the mill but that would likely be prone to some of the same error as the table. I've measured and layed out holes many times in the past. Even accurately center punching within .003" can be really difficult. I'd say the rotary table is very accurate and certainly accurate enough for what I do. The amount of drill movement when drilling holes probably exceeds the error in a rotary table. Again, this is just my opinion but it's based on what I have experianced.
@@WinkysWorkshop No layout and center punching are necessary. The DRO on the milling machine is used, nominally accurate to .0005, for all coordinates. The book is authored by J. Richard Moore, inventor of the Moore Jig Borer and Moore Jig Grinder. 4, 6, 8, 12 or 24 holes, etc. are easy on a rotary table but what if your print calls for 56 holes on a 10 inch bolt circle? I’m speaking from 60 years as a machinist and tool maker with my own shop for last 20 years. I’m a subscriber and always enjoy your videos.
7:56...that comes out to 72 millimeters-(!)
My lathe is inch