Hey guys sorry for the pale, expressionless face through out the video. I had food poisioning 2 days before I filmed this, I didnt want to keep on waiting to make the video so ended up just going with it. But if you are interested in a quick way to lose 5kg in 2 days I can certanly recomend eating fish in a dodgy place 😁
I should be climbing around V7, but have climbed V10. Have been climbing for a total of 10+ years. When I was climbing consistent V7 outdoors, I could max hang about 110% BW on BM 1000 outside edges. I started hangboarding during Covid and improved to 130% which is approx. where I am now. Have climbed several outdoor V10s, but generally will send V8 in about 20-30 min of work. I learned improving finger strength is extremely helpful when you’re at the bottom of the range which is where I am. If you’re in the middle or above there are probably other weaknesses to spend time and energy on which will have a larger impact on your overall climbing.
Yeah! You're 100% spot on, it would be great to have stats like a video game and it would be obvious to see that we have a low rating on X skill to work on, and when ever you are at the lowest part of a range on anything that usually where you can get the easiest gains
I started 6 months ago and just sent my first v8 on tention board after 2 sessions, outdoor v6 and close on my v7 outdoor project. 125.9% body weight on 20mm edge
Sheesh! Epic you are under the median in your range which means 2 good things, your climbing is really good and finger strength might be a limiting factor in the future so you can do a bit of training to keep it going up at a controlled rate with low chance of injury! You're gonna be a beast with those combined
Can barely hold my own weight for 7 secs on a Beastmaker 20mm edge with both hands, climbing V6 and projecting V7. I think finger strength is definitely a weakness, but in the end I think footwork and flexibility is what truly holds me back. Very good video! I agree with all of your points throughout!
I'm the same way, I can hang on 20mm but my hands tremble. I used to be much stronger but have put off finger training for about 3 years, I would love to get back into it but with the starts I mentioned in this video
I feel like finger strength is my main weakness. I cannot hold myself on 20mm edge at all. Max 1-2 seconds if I am fully warmed up and have a perfect conditions. Although I only climb at around v4 (sometimes v5 on slab). Flexibility is definitely in the list there as well, however it is improving quite a lot. I started deliberately working on it after just a month of climbing and now it is not as bad as it used to be.
Thats really good though. I can hold my weight on a 20mm edge for about 4 sec with my right hand and only 1-2 sec with my left. Despite that im still climbing v7-v8 so i think u definitely got the finger strenght
Interesting take, and I can somehow relate to that. What I have been doing recently to mitigate that is to purposely try my hard projects when I am relatively fatigued. This way my intention is to learn and optimize the moves. This has helped me to keep progressing even if my strength levels might be above the grade.
Yeah I've done that on specific moves or if I'm projecting, the thing about that is not over doing it. Also being able to focus on optimal technique always and not just when you are tired is a good skill to develop, I still think I'm a long way from being there but keep on trying
The Last one is crazy accurate and Important! Make sure to watch all the way! Its tough to convey these concepts in a wholistic, calm not preachy way. You share it quite well well done Crispy crimps looking forward to more stuff from this channel
Watching body builders climb on magnus’ channel proves that strength will get you so far, finger strength will get you a little farther, but being able to move efficiently on different wall types is what helps you excel
Yeah! Also relative strength is probably more important than just pure one, if you can move more % of body weight it's better than just lifting more. They are heavy so gravity isn't kind to them 😂
Haven't done a weighted hang in years and don't really hangboard anymore but on a good day I can hang the middle edge on the beastmaker 2000, not sure if that translates 1:1 to being able to hang 200% bw but safe to say finger strength is not the issue as I haven't even sent a v9 yet.
Wow that's crazy strong, yesterday I saw a lattice reel where they said that 200%bw would mean v15 as limit so I think you're pretty accurate on the assessment that finger strength is not your limiting reactant. What do you think might be holding you back? I imagine you'll say technique but is there something a bit more specific?
climbing v7 with 140% bw so pretty spot on, for me personally it always feels like if i don't have a dedicated fingerboard routine in my plan i suffer from more injurys than with one. that's most likely due to the fact that i would go climbing instead 😂 and also a bigger climber so my fingers need some special love.
Great to see you are spot on for your grade! That means that with just some dedicated movement practice you can easily break into new grades, keep it up man 😁
@@CrispyCrimpsClimbing in my opinion consistency is key in climbing progression. but not "normal consistency" like climbing only v4. Rather progressivly overload consistency (in different aspects e.g. technique, power, (finger) strength) will make you break that plateau over time. unfortunately every time i felt like breaking into the v8&v9 range a injury happend but good news the v6-v7 range felt easier every time.
@@roman4692 Yeah I know what you mean my friend, I feel the same way. The good thing, as you say, is there's many ways to view progress. As long as something is moving forward you are always improving!
V4 (climbed one V5 but wouldn't say I can climb any others in my gym) and I can hold 130% of my body weight on a 20mm edge. Do I think I lack technique? Sure, but there are crimp climbs I'm still unable to do even now that are just V4s and sometimes V3s. How on earth am I expected to hold 70-80% of my bodyweight on a side crimp, that's btw less than 20mm, and dual tex feet with a sliver of actual texture? That's a project V5 of mine and I'm training fingers specifically to do it. When I climbed in some gyms in Paris, I learned what good holds feel like and realized my setters are not accounting for strength enough when making grades. I wouldn't be surprised if it's happening in other gyms as well.
It's hard to tell without seeing the boulder and the gym in person, I just take this stuff as a rule of thumb but I do think movement skills are highly underrated by the average climber. And once I stopped thinking like that my skill went through the roof
the problem i face currently is that i'm fairly certain my gym is just super crimpy therefore my lack on finger strength is an unavoidable bottleneck. Switching gyms isn't an option as the next closest one is 20 more minutes and i already drive 40.
I see, if that's the case try to go for slow finger gains and focus a lot in driving tension through the feet, it will make your body lighter on your fingers. If you combine this (don't get injured) you should see improvement but I understand the frustration. I personally don't spend that much time on crimps and would be scared for my fingers if that's the only thing that would be available. Also, who knows but maybe ask the staff if that can make more slopper problems, every gym should have a balance
muchas gracias por compartir tus conocimientos. escalo hace años pero mi unico propósito fue lograr el TOP. La filosofía de la escalada no me interesé nunca en estes años y por eso me quedé en el nivel V4. Eso se cambió hace 8 meses y pico y ahora puedo escalar V6-V7. hoy por ejemplo hice mis primeros dynos. En tu video hablas exactamente sobre estas cosas que para mi significan la filosofía de la escalada. Gracias. Mi español es de nivel B1, espero que tu puedes entender mi mensaje. Un abrazo desde Hamburgo, Alex
Hola Alex! Tu español es muy bueno, si no me decias que tu nivel era B1 asumia que vivias en españa ya que la forma de hablar es un poco distinta a argentina. Yo estaba en la misma posicion que vos y creo que este cambio de mentalidad me ayudo mucho a desbloquear una nueva forma de ver el mundo. Que bueno que a vos tambien te haya resultado positivo, un abrazo desde Tokyo!
I think you just hit the mark with your comment, once you change from short term to long term I think it allows you to improve a lot more. You can clearly see that small gains can accumulate and instead of just focusing on hitting the next project you can address other stuff that in the long run will make you a much better climber
I can hang 200% body weight, I climb V9 and looks like I have the finger strength to climb V14-V15 I have found that finger strength is very rarely a limiting factor for me… that being said I still have not touched a hang board or campus board, just constantly working my technique with on the wall drills.
Damn, you're pretty strong my friend. I think there's a lot of people that naturally tend to go to a style maybe yours is pretty fingery and thats how you got so strong. What drills do you do?
@@CrispyCrimpsClimbing I primarily moonboard (2016 set). That’s probably the source of my finger strength gains. Within the past 2 years I’ve pretty much just been doing limit bouldering sessions 3 days a week. I used to do lots of flagging drills and lock-off or even campus work. Recently I’ve been finding a lacking of my endurance so I started doing 4x4’s on mid-grade boulders (for me that’s around V5).
Nice! Sounds like you're in the groove and know what to aim for. I would love to try the moon board, I've never been on it yet but I'm always scared for my finger 😂
hey man, when you mentioned your shoulders were weak , was it due to a dislocation? i dislocated my shoulder a few times and I think its the main thing holding me back. I get scared to do quick moves or positions that put my shoulders in a vulnerable position. anyways if it is, any advice on what helps? I already have gone half a year without tweaking it because I've been warming up properly and doing a lot of prehab exercises but I'm curious to see what you have to say.
Hey man, I'm sorry to hear about your shoulder, I have a cousin and a friend that have that issue chronically and is horrible. Personally I've never had a dislocation just a few tweaks when doing cynamic moves or just a feeling of "if I keep on doing this move I'll get injured" That feeling has completly dissapeared with my warm up and a few mobility things that opened up the range in order to get the shoulders nice and strong. I'm not an expert in the subject but atleast in my case I would focus first on having a good mobility range. If its not good that means weakness in certain positions which can lead to injury. Then strengthen it, and dont forget about scapulla too! They work a lot together, so scap pull ups, face pulls and maybe getting better at lock offs. Just in case you havent seen it (since I do most of thewse in my warm up) here's the link: ua-cam.com/video/ukEFW8I-Qp8/v-deo.html Hope this has helped!
I can barely hang 100% on 20mm, but i recently sent my first v5 (6c). I think strength might be handy in my case, but the working the shoulders really helped me. Great vid dude!
Yeah! Shoulders are incredible, I feel that they are the "Upper Body Hips". If you dont feel solid on them its hard to do much. Congrats on the V5! I do think that especially on lower grades people are way stronger than what what they need to be but its kind of bound to be that way since they have the least exposure to good technique. But all comes in time if you go at it!
33% bw on 20mm with 3 pulley strains. BW on 12mm with 3 pulley strains and 2 more flexor strains. Taking time off now, but I was climbing V7s outside. Don't think it's good to use inside grades since I can climb V8/9 in some gyms... I think most people who "can't hang BW" are using indoor grades because there is no way you are touching an outside crimpfest V5/6 lol
I get where you're coming from, I think outdoor styles depend a lot where you live. Where I live now is mainly really small edges which is what I find the hardest, but in other outdoor spots there's sloppers or pockets, or just bif moves of of sharper but bigger holds. I would love to sometime get the chance to travel and get to know more outdoor stuff since to be honest I havent done much
@@CrispyCrimpsClimbing Good point. I've only climbed in the northeast and one place on the west coast so I don't have too much experience. In the Northeast, It's almost entirely small crimps while out west (Berkeley, CA), it was bigger holds with bad feet and awkward moves
Yeah for sure there are common elements to all styles of climbing but in a sport as varied as climbing its really hard to just say you only need to have finger strength. I would love to tour the world and learn a ton of different styles, maybe in the future 🙏
@@BiggieChungulus isn't it based off of the % weight you can pull? Wouldn't that make it take weight into account? I'm not great at maths so don't take my word for that last part, it just how I understand it. If it's wrong please correct me and explain so I learn 😁
@@CrispyCrimpsClimbingwell it could explain why some people climb v11 at ~130% vs some people at ~220%. It would be safe to assume bigger people have less relative strength. Don't get me wrong, I believe climbing is a democraric sport and that every body type (that is reasonably low in bodyfat) is viable. I also agree most climbers especially in the v6-v8 range are stronger than their grade. I just believe the relative vs absolute strength distinction is a missing nuance here.
Ohh now I see what you mean, yeah thats true. I think like you climbing is one of the "fairest" sports, since many different skills are used maybe someone who isnt as strong might be way more flexible and get the top. Having said that it's true that the only way i think climbing does favor a certain body type is usually on the weight aspect. But most people arent climbing for a living and thair true rival is their past self so I dont think its as important as just improving. Nice point I didnt even stop to think about, thanks for bringing it up 😁
You are a Gem, my friend! With a little bit of consistent training you can keep your movement abilities improving while gaining strength at a solid pace
@@CrispyCrimpsClimbing thanks! Only problem is my body weight is 185# of muscle, so it may take some harder finger strength training to work on that % body weight number. At 100% my fingers need to take the weight of many other people 125%. I feel like the weight factor isn’t spoke about much in these conversations, yet it has real influence on outcome
@@ryanfitzalan8634 Take it slow, your journey is yours alone. As long as you keep on improving a bit on strength and keep climbing like you have I don't see why you couldn't break into V6 soon! Lower grades especially need much less finger strength than most people think
Ok, ok, I have strong finger strength, yes, but my finger endurance is 0. I only ever have one hard climb in me (V4). I'll concede that my technique is probably also severely lacking.
The good thing about being strong is that any improvement you do in technique is 10 fold, the bad thing is that you can default to that style of climbing very easily so its hard to control yourself and improve. Technique will give you more endurance since every individual move takes less out of you and that will compound session over session 😁
I wouldnt take it like the only truth but I do think there is clearly some correlation. Also if you think about it the people that this can benefit the most is beginners since they get strong fast but their movement skills lag behind. Keep on crushing it man!
Everything will come with time! Before I started climbing I was into calisthenics, when I started that I couldnt even do 1 chin up and after going ham I managed to improve quite a bit. Tackel your weaknesses and you will always grow 💪
Great video but I am afraid you are shooting yourself in the foot by calling it "the climbing iceberg" like you hold some secret knowledge that the climbing community does not know about. While all these tips are great, they are nothing too unexpected, and I found myself getting frustrated when the video did not seem to lead to this "secret knowledge" that I thought you were unleashing. Maybe that's my fault for getting too hyped for no reason. Keep up the good work
Ohh I see what you mean, in my head and from reading your answer it portraits what I say in the video exactly as is. Everyone sees the iceberg but doesn't notice or understand what's under the surface. It's ice, we all know it but not the shape / details. Hard climbing is the same way, just get to the top, stick to the fundamentals, learn every detail and leave no piece of climbing (including the things you hate or are bad at) with out practice. There is no big secret, it's about 2 things, being able to notice every little detail and executing on it
Hey guys sorry for the pale, expressionless face through out the video. I had food poisioning 2 days before I filmed this, I didnt want to keep on waiting to make the video so ended up just going with it. But if you are interested in a quick way to lose 5kg in 2 days I can certanly recomend eating fish in a dodgy place 😁
Came for climbing, stayed for diet tips!
@@rrrents Lol! Follow at your own peril
I should be climbing around V7, but have climbed V10. Have been climbing for a total of 10+ years. When I was climbing consistent V7 outdoors, I could max hang about 110% BW on BM 1000 outside edges. I started hangboarding during Covid and improved to 130% which is approx. where I am now. Have climbed several outdoor V10s, but generally will send V8 in about 20-30 min of work. I learned improving finger strength is extremely helpful when you’re at the bottom of the range which is where I am. If you’re in the middle or above there are probably other weaknesses to spend time and energy on which will have a larger impact on your overall climbing.
Yeah! You're 100% spot on, it would be great to have stats like a video game and it would be obvious to see that we have a low rating on X skill to work on, and when ever you are at the lowest part of a range on anything that usually where you can get the easiest gains
I started 6 months ago and just sent my first v8 on tention board after 2 sessions, outdoor v6 and close on my v7 outdoor project. 125.9% body weight on 20mm edge
Sheesh! Epic you are under the median in your range which means 2 good things, your climbing is really good and finger strength might be a limiting factor in the future so you can do a bit of training to keep it going up at a controlled rate with low chance of injury! You're gonna be a beast with those combined
Can barely hold my own weight for 7 secs on a Beastmaker 20mm edge with both hands, climbing V6 and projecting V7. I think finger strength is definitely a weakness, but in the end I think footwork and flexibility is what truly holds me back. Very good video! I agree with all of your points throughout!
I'm the same way, I can hang on 20mm but my hands tremble. I used to be much stronger but have put off finger training for about 3 years, I would love to get back into it but with the starts I mentioned in this video
I feel like finger strength is my main weakness. I cannot hold myself on 20mm edge at all. Max 1-2 seconds if I am fully warmed up and have a perfect conditions. Although I only climb at around v4 (sometimes v5 on slab). Flexibility is definitely in the list there as well, however it is improving quite a lot. I started deliberately working on it after just a month of climbing and now it is not as bad as it used to be.
As long as you put in the time there is always results, thats the best way to keep on going
Thats really good though. I can hold my weight on a 20mm edge for about 4 sec with my right hand and only 1-2 sec with my left. Despite that im still climbing v7-v8 so i think u definitely got the finger strenght
@@henrikblomqvist720 of course it always depends on the boulder but I'm with you! Most people can do more than they think
Interesting take, and I can somehow relate to that. What I have been doing recently to mitigate that is to purposely try my hard projects when I am relatively fatigued. This way my intention is to learn and optimize the moves. This has helped me to keep progressing even if my strength levels might be above the grade.
Yeah I've done that on specific moves or if I'm projecting, the thing about that is not over doing it. Also being able to focus on optimal technique always and not just when you are tired is a good skill to develop, I still think I'm a long way from being there but keep on trying
4:15 that heel hook made me laugh
Lol yeah, used to happen all the time 🤣
The Last one is crazy accurate and Important! Make sure to watch all the way!
Its tough to convey these concepts in a wholistic, calm not preachy way. You share it quite well well done Crispy crimps looking forward to more stuff from this channel
Thanks man! One of the reasons I learned all this stuff is by watching your highlight videos 🤣
@@CrispyCrimpsClimbing haha
Qué bueno encontrar un canal de un compatriota compartiendo conocimiento de este hermoso deporte (: Buenísimo el video, seguí metiendolé! Un Abrazo
Gracias Joaco! Voy a seguir dandole para adelante 😁
Watching body builders climb on magnus’ channel proves that strength will get you so far, finger strength will get you a little farther, but being able to move efficiently on different wall types is what helps you excel
Yeah! Also relative strength is probably more important than just pure one, if you can move more % of body weight it's better than just lifting more. They are heavy so gravity isn't kind to them 😂
Is that rock on in cebu? 11:50
Yes 😂
Haven't done a weighted hang in years and don't really hangboard anymore but on a good day I can hang the middle edge on the beastmaker 2000, not sure if that translates 1:1 to being able to hang 200% bw but safe to say finger strength is not the issue as I haven't even sent a v9 yet.
Wow that's crazy strong, yesterday I saw a lattice reel where they said that 200%bw would mean v15 as limit so I think you're pretty accurate on the assessment that finger strength is not your limiting reactant.
What do you think might be holding you back? I imagine you'll say technique but is there something a bit more specific?
climbing v7 with 140% bw so pretty spot on, for me personally it always feels like if i don't have a dedicated fingerboard routine in my plan i suffer from more injurys than with one. that's most likely due to the fact that i would go climbing instead 😂 and also a bigger climber so my fingers need some special love.
Great to see you are spot on for your grade! That means that with just some dedicated movement practice you can easily break into new grades, keep it up man 😁
@@CrispyCrimpsClimbing in my opinion consistency is key in climbing progression. but not "normal consistency" like climbing only v4. Rather progressivly overload consistency (in different aspects e.g. technique, power, (finger) strength) will make you break that plateau over time. unfortunately every time i felt like breaking into the v8&v9 range a injury happend but good news the v6-v7 range felt easier every time.
@@roman4692 Yeah I know what you mean my friend, I feel the same way. The good thing, as you say, is there's many ways to view progress. As long as something is moving forward you are always improving!
If you don't mind me asking how much do you weigh?
@@BiggieChungulus if you asking me: ~189cm/88kg
V4 (climbed one V5 but wouldn't say I can climb any others in my gym) and I can hold 130% of my body weight on a 20mm edge.
Do I think I lack technique? Sure, but there are crimp climbs I'm still unable to do even now that are just V4s and sometimes V3s. How on earth am I expected to hold 70-80% of my bodyweight on a side crimp, that's btw less than 20mm, and dual tex feet with a sliver of actual texture? That's a project V5 of mine and I'm training fingers specifically to do it.
When I climbed in some gyms in Paris, I learned what good holds feel like and realized my setters are not accounting for strength enough when making grades. I wouldn't be surprised if it's happening in other gyms as well.
It's hard to tell without seeing the boulder and the gym in person, I just take this stuff as a rule of thumb but I do think movement skills are highly underrated by the average climber. And once I stopped thinking like that my skill went through the roof
Another banger vid!
Thanks man! Trying my best, in a few weeks there's gonna be a string of incredible ones!
@@CrispyCrimpsClimbing I’m looking forward to it!
the problem i face currently is that i'm fairly certain my gym is just super crimpy therefore my lack on finger strength is an unavoidable bottleneck. Switching gyms isn't an option as the next closest one is 20 more minutes and i already drive 40.
I see, if that's the case try to go for slow finger gains and focus a lot in driving tension through the feet, it will make your body lighter on your fingers. If you combine this (don't get injured) you should see improvement but I understand the frustration. I personally don't spend that much time on crimps and would be scared for my fingers if that's the only thing that would be available. Also, who knows but maybe ask the staff if that can make more slopper problems, every gym should have a balance
muchas gracias por compartir tus conocimientos. escalo hace años pero mi unico propósito fue lograr el TOP. La filosofía de la escalada no me interesé nunca en estes años y por eso me quedé en el nivel V4. Eso se cambió hace 8 meses y pico y ahora puedo escalar V6-V7. hoy por ejemplo hice mis primeros dynos.
En tu video hablas exactamente sobre estas cosas que para mi significan la filosofía de la escalada. Gracias. Mi español es de nivel B1, espero que tu puedes entender mi mensaje. Un abrazo desde Hamburgo, Alex
Hola Alex! Tu español es muy bueno, si no me decias que tu nivel era B1 asumia que vivias en españa ya que la forma de hablar es un poco distinta a argentina. Yo estaba en la misma posicion que vos y creo que este cambio de mentalidad me ayudo mucho a desbloquear una nueva forma de ver el mundo. Que bueno que a vos tambien te haya resultado positivo, un abrazo desde Tokyo!
Nice video! Great to see your channel growing 💪
Thanks man! I'll keep on trying my best 😁
anyone have a link to the explanation for the assessment? Not sure how I'm meant to fill it out. thx
Hi! It's in the description, it's a Google doc you can print or modify so you can see your weakness and biases
Playing music over your echoey voice is quite distracting.
Thanks for the tip my friend, noted for the next one!
Great video! thanks for the tips, it is definitely a much healthier and long term driven approach to climbing! Will take into consideration
I think you just hit the mark with your comment, once you change from short term to long term I think it allows you to improve a lot more. You can clearly see that small gains can accumulate and instead of just focusing on hitting the next project you can address other stuff that in the long run will make you a much better climber
I can hang 200% body weight, I climb V9 and looks like I have the finger strength to climb V14-V15
I have found that finger strength is very rarely a limiting factor for me… that being said I still have not touched a hang board or campus board, just constantly working my technique with on the wall drills.
Damn, you're pretty strong my friend. I think there's a lot of people that naturally tend to go to a style maybe yours is pretty fingery and thats how you got so strong. What drills do you do?
@@CrispyCrimpsClimbing I primarily moonboard (2016 set). That’s probably the source of my finger strength gains. Within the past 2 years I’ve pretty much just been doing limit bouldering sessions 3 days a week. I used to do lots of flagging drills and lock-off or even campus work. Recently I’ve been finding a lacking of my endurance so I started doing 4x4’s on mid-grade boulders (for me that’s around V5).
Nice! Sounds like you're in the groove and know what to aim for. I would love to try the moon board, I've never been on it yet but I'm always scared for my finger 😂
Great video! Keep up the great work!
Thanks! I'll keep them coming 😁
Great video ❤
Thanks!!
hey man, when you mentioned your shoulders were weak , was it due to a dislocation? i dislocated my shoulder a few times and I think its the main thing holding me back. I get scared to do quick moves or positions that put my shoulders in a vulnerable position.
anyways if it is, any advice on what helps? I already have gone half a year without tweaking it because I've been warming up properly and doing a lot of prehab exercises but I'm curious to see what you have to say.
Hey man, I'm sorry to hear about your shoulder, I have a cousin and a friend that have that issue chronically and is horrible. Personally I've never had a dislocation just a few tweaks when doing cynamic moves or just a feeling of "if I keep on doing this move I'll get injured"
That feeling has completly dissapeared with my warm up and a few mobility things that opened up the range in order to get the shoulders nice and strong.
I'm not an expert in the subject but atleast in my case I would focus first on having a good mobility range. If its not good that means weakness in certain positions which can lead to injury. Then strengthen it, and dont forget about scapulla too! They work a lot together, so scap pull ups, face pulls and maybe getting better at lock offs.
Just in case you havent seen it (since I do most of thewse in my warm up)
here's the link:
ua-cam.com/video/ukEFW8I-Qp8/v-deo.html
Hope this has helped!
I can barely hang 100% on 20mm, but i recently sent my first v5 (6c). I think strength might be handy in my case, but the working the shoulders really helped me. Great vid dude!
Yeah! Shoulders are incredible, I feel that they are the "Upper Body Hips". If you dont feel solid on them its hard to do much. Congrats on the V5! I do think that especially on lower grades people are way stronger than what what they need to be but its kind of bound to be that way since they have the least exposure to good technique. But all comes in time if you go at it!
I fully agree with everything you say in this video, 10/10
Thanks for your comment! Anything you would add to it?
33% bw on 20mm with 3 pulley strains. BW on 12mm with 3 pulley strains and 2 more flexor strains. Taking time off now, but I was climbing V7s outside.
Don't think it's good to use inside grades since I can climb V8/9 in some gyms... I think most people who "can't hang BW" are using indoor grades because there is no way you are touching an outside crimpfest V5/6 lol
I get where you're coming from, I think outdoor styles depend a lot where you live. Where I live now is mainly really small edges which is what I find the hardest, but in other outdoor spots there's sloppers or pockets, or just bif moves of of sharper but bigger holds. I would love to sometime get the chance to travel and get to know more outdoor stuff since to be honest I havent done much
@@CrispyCrimpsClimbing Good point. I've only climbed in the northeast and one place on the west coast so I don't have too much experience. In the Northeast, It's almost entirely small crimps while out west (Berkeley, CA), it was bigger holds with bad feet and awkward moves
Yeah for sure there are common elements to all styles of climbing but in a sport as varied as climbing its really hard to just say you only need to have finger strength. I would love to tour the world and learn a ton of different styles, maybe in the future 🙏
Enjoy your videos so much!
Thank you! I will keep on trying hard to make more 😁
So the problem with the grade v relative strength data is it doesn't factor weight.
Hey BiggieChungulus 🤣 It does! If you look at the Y axis it says Percentage Bodyweight
@@CrispyCrimpsClimbingthats a ratio, it doesnt factor in the difference between a 100lbs person pulling 200lbs vs a 200lbs person pulling 250lbs.
@@BiggieChungulus isn't it based off of the % weight you can pull? Wouldn't that make it take weight into account?
I'm not great at maths so don't take my word for that last part, it just how I understand it. If it's wrong please correct me and explain so I learn 😁
@@CrispyCrimpsClimbingwell it could explain why some people climb v11 at ~130% vs some people at ~220%. It would be safe to assume bigger people have less relative strength. Don't get me wrong, I believe climbing is a democraric sport and that every body type (that is reasonably low in bodyfat) is viable. I also agree most climbers especially in the v6-v8 range are stronger than their grade. I just believe the relative vs absolute strength distinction is a missing nuance here.
Ohh now I see what you mean, yeah thats true. I think like you climbing is one of the "fairest" sports, since many different skills are used maybe someone who isnt as strong might be way more flexible and get the top. Having said that it's true that the only way i think climbing does favor a certain body type is usually on the weight aspect. But most people arent climbing for a living and thair true rival is their past self so I dont think its as important as just improving.
Nice point I didnt even stop to think about, thanks for bringing it up 😁
climbing V5 with only about 75% body weight.....not sure what that means except maybe finger strength IS my problem
You are a Gem, my friend! With a little bit of consistent training you can keep your movement abilities improving while gaining strength at a solid pace
@@CrispyCrimpsClimbing thanks! Only problem is my body weight is 185# of muscle, so it may take some harder finger strength training to work on that % body weight number. At 100% my fingers need to take the weight of many other people 125%. I feel like the weight factor isn’t spoke about much in these conversations, yet it has real influence on outcome
@@ryanfitzalan8634 Take it slow, your journey is yours alone. As long as you keep on improving a bit on strength and keep climbing like you have I don't see why you couldn't break into V6 soon! Lower grades especially need much less finger strength than most people think
great vid :)
Glad you enjoyed it, trying my best to make it fun 😁
@@CrispyCrimpsClimbing really good information in an entertaining format! during my session today i thought about multiple topics from the vid
Thanks Collin, I'll keep them coming!
Nice video :D
Thanks Benji! The next one will be the warm up one, just like you wanted
Ok, ok, I have strong finger strength, yes, but my finger endurance is 0. I only ever have one hard climb in me (V4). I'll concede that my technique is probably also severely lacking.
The good thing about being strong is that any improvement you do in technique is 10 fold, the bad thing is that you can default to that style of climbing very easily so its hard to control yourself and improve. Technique will give you more endurance since every individual move takes less out of you and that will compound session over session 😁
You talked about reactions and what you need, so I was wondering if you had any tips for getting talker? Jk great video.
Lol! Thats for your comment ☺
Lower the background music Abit
Thank you! I've learned from this and the newest video has better audio quality I think, I a bit weak of hearing so I dont notice as much
180% body weight climbing V8/V9. Should be climbing v12ish
I wouldnt take it like the only truth but I do think there is clearly some correlation. Also if you think about it the people that this can benefit the most is beginners since they get strong fast but their movement skills lag behind. Keep on crushing it man!
we want drills!! XD
Im that one dude in v5 who cant hang on a 20mm edge
Been climbing 6 months and 80kg can do 1 chin up :D
Everything will come with time! Before I started climbing I was into calisthenics, when I started that I couldnt even do 1 chin up and after going ham I managed to improve quite a bit. Tackel your weaknesses and you will always grow 💪
Great video but I am afraid you are shooting yourself in the foot by calling it "the climbing iceberg" like you hold some secret knowledge that the climbing community does not know about. While all these tips are great, they are nothing too unexpected, and I found myself getting frustrated when the video did not seem to lead to this "secret knowledge" that I thought you were unleashing. Maybe that's my fault for getting too hyped for no reason. Keep up the good work
Ohh I see what you mean, in my head and from reading your answer it portraits what I say in the video exactly as is. Everyone sees the iceberg but doesn't notice or understand what's under the surface. It's ice, we all know it but not the shape / details. Hard climbing is the same way, just get to the top, stick to the fundamentals, learn every detail and leave no piece of climbing (including the things you hate or are bad at) with out practice.
There is no big secret, it's about 2 things, being able to notice every little detail and executing on it
I just recently started bouldering for the first time and reached 6b/v4
Epic!!!
@@CrispyCrimpsClimbing 💪🏽