Відео

Been climbing 6 months and 80kg can do 1 chin up :D

Hey Josh! I'll keep that in mind and keep it PG friendly. It's my mission to stay here but it's more of a Visa issue if you are watching the Road to V10 series you know 😢 If you don't mind me asking what's your kids name? Thanks for the constant support

Thanks Logan! Anything else you want to see on the channel?

@@CrispyCrimpsClimbing if your training program has changed what is it. Also what’s the biggest difference between japans climbers vs Americans. The biggest mistakes you see others make trying to get to your level. Oh and I am curious about your nutrition.

Not long at all! I love reading comments, that's the best thing about UA-cam, us being able to connect besides just uploading or watching. I'll give tips I promise 😂 I want to share and keep learning with you guys as much as possible

I don't know why but I think Finnish people have an amazing sense of humor even though I think I've never met one in person 😂 Love your picture and thanks for the comment

Thanks for sharing jonny, most people only understand what they see and they cant see too much. People will always be quick to judge others and think that they personally have it harder since they know what they themselves went through to get there. You just keep doing you man, a lot of people watch my stuff and think I was born strong but the truth is that at 20 I couldnt even do a pull up and was always the weakest guy, now eveyone says I can climb stuff since I'm stong... But the good thing is you know you and that wont change, your height wont either so just keep focusing on improving and having fun

Always trying to give out the latest and best tips 🤣 Subscribe for more!

That would be pretty fun 😂

It's all a matter of perspective 😂 but I agree with you, I don't feel like I'm talk but I hear it every single day here

Nice to know! Yeah I think the way they set usually doesn't give much advantages especially on harder grades where you can't cheat moves. Surprisingly there is a pretty tall setter at BPUMP Tokyo and he loves setting small boxes so I think he balances it out 😂

😂😂😂 you'll be fine! Enjoy the experience and grow from it. But just in case start stretching today 😂

​@@CrispyCrimpsClimbingDid you just say "grow" 😂😂

Lol! Pun not intended

Lol my man I am not insecure about my height, I am very happy with it I think its the perfect range. I had a session with a friend and made a video showing differences about it, but I will talk to my therapist about it though 🤣

@@CrispyCrimpsClimbing waaiiiiit is this your first hater :o

Not the first one! But its still fun though

I see what you mean, personally, I think one of the most amazing things about climbing is that it is very personal and there are many ways to solve problems depending on body types and personal strengths. Having said that there is a bias when it comes to competitions but since athletes are not necessarily competing against each other, they are actually competing against the boulder there might not be a need for classes. I do think it would be a fun experiment tho 🤔

Look at ai Mori and janja. I would rate them as on the same level. But in the Olympics qualifier boulder yesterday on problems one and three ai just couldn't make the jumps. Tall people can always work on their flexibility. Short people get completely shut down by things beyond their reach. And yes it is possible but just so much harder to work on explosiveness and power when the position becomes much more unstable and difficult due to the holds being too far apart for your reach. When your reach is long enough to span multiple holds you have much more options. Are height classes the answer? Probably not but we gotta admit it's not perfect the way it is.

I thought exactly the same thing, I think yesterday the problem wasn't it being that there were jumps it's that every single boulder had one. Usually we have a power, a coordination, a technical and a random boulder. This time every single boulder had coordination jumps on it which was a surprise

@@woceht Ai Mori is also known for not being explosive enough. The contrast gets even worse if you put her with the rest of the Japanese team. There is ofcourse a limit to her potential there. But so is there on other body types. In regards with height classes, idk. I am not aware of short tennis players or tall jockeys. Certain body types favour certain sports. We can certainly call this unfair but to create a multitude of classes to make the playing field even might do more harm than good. Climbing allows (nearly) any body type to be world class. Even gender (apart from the very very tip of the sport) doesn't makes a difference. That is incredible! Janja vs Ai being such a great example of that. Sure Ai struggles with 1 aspect but it's hard to call her uncompetitive.

You just gave the perfect description. I think climbing is probably the fairest sport since it is so multifaceted almost any body type can gain a certain advantage depending on the problem. The only things it does discriminate against is weight and flexibility. I always see Ai Mori climb in the gym and there's actually been many boulders where I got a chance to compare betas between us an it's crazy different since we have like 25 CM height difference I do think the Olympic bouldering round showed that being on the fringe of height will not help you compete if you can barely control the starting position on boulder #1 much less through the jump following

I'm happy you like the vids 😁

Thank you! I've learned from this and the newest video has better audio quality I think, I a bit weak of hearing so I dont notice as much

There's always people like that, I think it's important to understand what your body is suited to do easily but not let that define you or you'll never improve 😂 thanks for sharing, you just made my morning a bit more fun

@@CrispyCrimpsClimbing I was also giggling a bit to myself. But it was weird because I have been climbing for almost 2 years now and I habe not really seen anyone like that

Same here, I think every once in a while it happens but usually people are pretty chill about stuff like that. Personally I get mad at myself when I cant do something but I never complain about height or weigth coz it seems pointless. Everyone has their own body and even if I wanted to swap with someone I cant so might as well just keep on finding ways to improve

Damn Benji you are an absolute unit, if you come to Japan tell me and we'll do another version of this video 😂 Yeah for sure it's just like you said it. Btw I didn't say it in the video but azamin is pretty buff so he weighs the same as me 😲

I am a 6"4 climber also living in Japan and the number of times I struggle with body tension cause the holds are so close together is ridiculous, it's almost every boulder. The bright side is, normally the part I struggle with is at the beginning whereas my Japanese climbing buddies find the starts easy and the reachy goals difficult. For me, once I can clear the first few moves, I tend to be able to finish the climb no problem :D

Same thing here I do find the crux to be in different spots than my friends in some gyms but when stuff gets hard if it is well set I think we usually all agree that something is the crux

@@CrispyCrimpsClimbing haha ye sure if I'll ever go to Japan I'll tell you! :D I might come this winter ^^ I planned to visit Japan for quite a long time, just need to find the time

If you do just hit me up 😁 until then i'll keep you motivated! BTW the next video is gonna be a big surprise so i think you'll enjoy it

Yeah I think it always depends, which is kinda boring but it's the truth. Are you going to climb on razor thin crimps, well the being lighter and smaller in general will help more since you have more % of your hand on the hold. Are you going for sloppers? Then it's the other way around. Climbing being such a complex sport will never have an ultimate build even though in theory it would be to grow wings and just fly to the top 😂

I think being tall is better when climbing low grades like v0 - v6 but after that its often worse being taller.

dont forget sorato anraku

I think it depends on the boulder, if it is a hard boulder where everything is stretched out it would seem easier for a tall climber but if it's a hard one with small uncomfortable boxes it's the other way around. Climbing is too complex to have a perfect anything, it's always about choosing your sacrifice 😂

@@CrispyCrimpsClimbing Yes I agree, I would say based on my experience, which is limited, being 5'5 is better overall than being 6'5 in most cases based on the indoor route setting i've seen. I see a lot of relatively short teenagers do well on hard boulders too.

You got it man! Enjoy the experience, I think this had a really good impact on my climbing though since you are forced to address the biggest weakness for your build

Yeah I feel you, I was born like this, it's not like I can change it 😂 or maybe I can 🪚?

Por que?!?! 😭

The first thing I would say is 100% try a bunch of sizes and models, do not blindly follow other people's advice because the most important thing is a nice fit with your foot and we're all different. Having said that I personally love my souped ups as a soft shoe and solution comps as a stiffer one. If you do more outdoor stuff with lots of crimps a stiffer shoe is usually better and if you do a lot of indoor walking on volumes and polished chips a soft one is better. I hope this helps, I want to make a video on shoes but It'll be a few months before that so I don't think I'll make it in time for you. If you want describe your climbing style, goals, and where you spend most time and I can give you some options 😁

I see, if that's the case try to go for slow finger gains and focus a lot in driving tension through the feet, it will make your body lighter on your fingers. If you combine this (don't get injured) you should see improvement but I understand the frustration. I personally don't spend that much time on crimps and would be scared for my fingers if that's the only thing that would be available. Also, who knows but maybe ask the staff if that can make more slopper problems, every gym should have a balance

The best and if you pair it up with fasting you can get the perfect body for climbing 😂

Last year I came with a working holiday one, this year im here with a student one

🤣 Crispy Indeed!

Lol! Yeah the start was a bit weird, did you manage to get it??

Thanks man! I'm glad so many people could relate with it, it really surprised me

Thanks! I'm 175cm ish, not talk but not short. I'm literally the world's average. The next video is actually a short vs tall climber at BPUMP 😂

@@CrispyCrimpsClimbing I have the same height and now wanna go to japan to feel tall climbing once in a lifetime:)

Lol I know the feeling, you wont feel like a giant but a bit above average. Good luck in your quest my friend, maybe I'll see you here

Thanks!!

Yeah! You're 100% spot on, it would be great to have stats like a video game and it would be obvious to see that we have a low rating on X skill to work on, and when ever you are at the lowest part of a range on anything that usually where you can get the easiest gains

I mostly lost the small nuances on technique. When I was climbing I thought I was weaker but then went to another gym that was not as technical and was able to climb almost as hard as before (it's gonna be a video in like 2 weeks) Lately I've been able to improve a lot on the flow between moved and finding more relaxed positions

Hi! It's in the description, it's a Google doc you can print or modify so you can see your weakness and biases

Gotta try and break the flow sometimes, I'm a little too stiff when talking to the mic

Thanks Henry! The next one is gonna be even better

Yeah I've done that on specific moves or if I'm projecting, the thing about that is not over doing it. Also being able to focus on optimal technique always and not just when you are tired is a good skill to develop, I still think I'm a long way from being there but keep on trying

😂 I'm originally from Argentina! So I really did come all around the globe to get here Thanks for the support I'm sure the sponsors will be really happy

We'll be going at it together! I don't think it really matters if it's feasible or if you make it, it's about trying 😁