Just want to point out that algae doesn’t need to be manually introduced. If tanks are not sealed, algae can get in. If it can get in 1 tank, the same species can get into another tank. Also it’s often introduced by plants from LFS - so even if one keeps tanks separated carefully, the plants/gills coming from the LFS can cause algae spores to be introduced then the aquarists tank keeping “style” can cause the same species to thrive in all tanks. Hey I would like to see some tests with diff plants being sterilized by bleach. Or peroxide. Maybe you can do a test or something to see how much they can handle and what dosage and time length is best or something like that!!! That would be an awesome video!
Very valid point on the NLS food and phosphates. I too feed NLS food and have high phosphates (and brown dust algae) 😢, I once tried using ( under dosage) phosphate remover and it killed my fancy pleco. So now I just leave it alone . My nitrate also run high around 25-30 ppm .My fish love the NLS , so I’m not Changing it .Nitrate out of tap runs 20ppm. As always thank you for your very informative content ❤
The plenum has reached its max. Gold fish are great eaters and polluters. Much more than the usual. One has to either make a larger plenum or reduce the number of goldfish. Regular water changes can at best can lower the PO4 and NO3 in the short term. I do experienced that siphoning the gravel can remove the muck and improve the water movement through the gravel much more. But do notice that the levels will creep up again. All these measures can help stablise the aquarium a bit. It is a tricky and constantly a balancing act.
Yes, I agree, you can use the Hanna Checker "Marine" HR nitrate test for freshwater. I have tested it against two other brands of nitrate test kits, and the results are the same. I use it for testing my freshwater lab experiments.
I agree with you. I've checked and double checked and I noticed it. Yes you can use them for freshwater because even the most expensive test kits I have all verify what I'm saying.
Thankyou for this video. I have a similar issue in one of my tanks where the nitrates remain high (50ppm) even with the plenum, but I think it is because I have a higher feed load because of the 8-10 in cichlids in a 75gal. And as you say the plenum can handle only so much. I may try an overhead sump with some bcb baskets as an experiment. I have 4 other tanks with plenums and they have next to no nitrates in them consistently. The last tank I did was a 55 gal and I did it precisely with 3" of safetysorb and 1" of fine gravel. This tank has been up for 3 months and have had next to no algae in it still. I have 4 angels, 5 swordtails, a butterfly fish, and and elephantnose fish in it. I put anubias and crypts in it and are all growing well so far.
Update. It appears my nitrates are going down. Also the API nitrate Reagent I was using appears to have recently become inaccurate. As I got a new API kit and it reads at about 20ppm nitrate. Whereas the old reagent said it was at 50ppm. That is quite a difference. I guess the API kit is only good for a year after you open it I hear, even though it hasn't expired according to the date on the bottle.
I feel like I could complain about how my plenums are not meeting my expectations However 1st I need to try to figure out what I am doing wrong But 2nd maybe it is working and doing exactly what it's supposed to do - and I am doing something that is working against my preferred results 🤔 :)
Hi dr novak So which foods have a very low level of phosphates and nitrites? Or maybe it's better to prepare food yourself with lower levels of phosphates and nitrites. And do you have any suggestions on the matter
I am struggling with BBA a lot. Its been more than year but they are not vanishing the f out of my tank event after using hydrogen peroxide. How can I solve this. TDS of my water is 560 PPM. Not able ti find the nitrates and other metrics as I don't have test kit. Lights are on for 7 hours, I have lowered the intensity this month. But IMO I am using DIY CO2 which is crazy unstable in terms of production and supply. That might be the reason. Pls suggest some solution on BBA.
@@anoxicfiltrationplenums No i just occationally dosing it like after 15 days 10ml on the infected spots. Turning off the filter to avoid damage to beneficial bacteria. Bad new is that I am also feeding my fishes NLS probiotix.
@@ashwingogawale5560 Prepare a peroxide serving for your tank at 1ml/gal if you don't plan on doing a water change, or you can do up to 2ml/gal if you want to do a water change afterwards. Turn filters off. Spot treat once every 2 days. Detritivores will eat the algae to prevent ammonia spike. If you're having trouble with it immediately returning, try spot treating the places it was growing from for an extra week. Otherwise, if it keeps growing back, you have a balance issue with nutrients/light/co2
Just want to point out that algae doesn’t need to be manually introduced. If tanks are not sealed, algae can get in. If it can get in 1 tank, the same species can get into another tank.
Also it’s often introduced by plants from LFS - so even if one keeps tanks separated carefully, the plants/gills coming from the LFS can cause algae spores to be introduced then the aquarists tank keeping “style” can cause the same species to thrive in all tanks.
Hey I would like to see some tests with diff plants being sterilized by bleach. Or peroxide. Maybe you can do a test or something to see how much they can handle and what dosage and time length is best or something like that!!! That would be an awesome video!
Very valid point on the NLS food and phosphates. I too feed NLS food and have high phosphates (and brown dust algae) 😢, I once tried using ( under dosage) phosphate remover and it killed my fancy pleco. So now I just leave it alone . My nitrate also run high around 25-30 ppm .My fish love the NLS , so I’m not Changing it .Nitrate out of tap runs 20ppm. As always thank you for your very informative content ❤
I found food is primary issues.
So need to monitor after every feed.
The plenum has reached its max. Gold fish are great eaters and polluters. Much more than the usual.
One has to either make a larger plenum or reduce the number of goldfish.
Regular water changes can at best can lower the PO4 and NO3 in the short term.
I do experienced that siphoning the gravel can remove the muck and improve the water movement through the gravel much more. But do notice that the levels will creep up again.
All these measures can help stablise the aquarium a bit.
It is a tricky and constantly a balancing act.
Thanks for your share, Dr!
Yes, I agree, you can use the Hanna Checker "Marine" HR nitrate test for freshwater. I have tested it against two other brands of nitrate test kits, and the results are the same. I use it for testing my freshwater lab experiments.
I agree with you. I've checked and double checked and I noticed it. Yes you can use them for freshwater because even the most expensive test kits I have all verify what I'm saying.
Thankyou for this video. I have a similar issue in one of my tanks where the nitrates remain high (50ppm) even with the plenum, but I think it is because I have a higher feed load because of the 8-10 in cichlids in a 75gal. And as you say the plenum can handle only so much. I may try an overhead sump with some bcb baskets as an experiment. I have 4 other tanks with plenums and they have next to no nitrates in them consistently. The last tank I did was a 55 gal and I did it precisely with 3" of safetysorb and 1" of fine gravel. This tank has been up for 3 months and have had next to no algae in it still. I have 4 angels, 5 swordtails, a butterfly fish, and and elephantnose fish in it. I put anubias and crypts in it and are all growing well so far.
Update. It appears my nitrates are going down. Also the API nitrate Reagent I was using appears to have recently become inaccurate. As I got a new API kit and it reads at about 20ppm nitrate. Whereas the old reagent said it was at 50ppm. That is quite a difference. I guess the API kit is only good for a year after you open it I hear, even though it hasn't expired according to the date on the bottle.
I feel like I could complain about how my plenums are not meeting my expectations
However
1st I need to try to figure out what I am doing wrong
But
2nd maybe it is working and doing exactly what it's supposed to do - and I am doing something that is working against my preferred results 🤔 :)
Hi dr novak
So which foods have a very low level of phosphates and nitrites? Or maybe it's better to prepare food yourself with lower levels of phosphates and nitrites. And do you have any suggestions on the matter
What is the problem with a light with alot of blue in it. I thought that blue helps vegetative growth and red for flowering is this bad info?
I am struggling with BBA a lot. Its been more than year but they are not vanishing the f out of my tank event after using hydrogen peroxide.
How can I solve this. TDS of my water is 560 PPM.
Not able ti find the nitrates and other metrics as I don't have test kit. Lights are on for 7 hours, I have lowered the intensity this month.
But IMO I am using DIY CO2 which is crazy unstable in terms of production and supply. That might be the reason.
Pls suggest some solution on BBA.
Are you dosing the Hydrogen peroxide at the right amount every single day as a show in my video?
@@anoxicfiltrationplenums No i just occationally dosing it like after 15 days 10ml on the infected spots. Turning off the filter to avoid damage to beneficial bacteria.
Bad new is that I am also feeding my fishes NLS probiotix.
@@ashwingogawale5560 Prepare a peroxide serving for your tank at 1ml/gal if you don't plan on doing a water change, or you can do up to 2ml/gal if you want to do a water change afterwards. Turn filters off. Spot treat once every 2 days. Detritivores will eat the algae to prevent ammonia spike. If you're having trouble with it immediately returning, try spot treating the places it was growing from for an extra week. Otherwise, if it keeps growing back, you have a balance issue with nutrients/light/co2