Drywall Finishing with Hawk and Trowel Backwards
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- Опубліковано 7 вер 2024
- Legend has it, of you hold your trowel backwards you get better control. Why don't you try it.
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Over 30 years of drywall experience and I’ve never used the hawk and trowel. I tried it once, threw it out and stayed with my knives ever since. My fingers hurt from pressing down on the blade to feather but the trowel looks very limiting in motion range and wrist injury/wear prone in comparison. What ever gets the job done and done right is what’s important. Nice job here.
Trowel is way better no finger or wrist pain because your whole arm is behind it rather than just your hand. Beads are fuller as well.
All comes down too how you want too do it.
I use pan and knife for 14 years I tried to use the hawk and trowel and it's hard to get used top but I realize I can do the same nice work with a pan and knife nice coating like the hawk and trowel and I gotta learn the drywall trade make a decent wage doing drywall and tapeing love the trade
All depends on the trowel blade itself. Also hawk an troweling you have to be a bit more precise cutting the mud ontoblade edge. I have a woren down 12 by 5 curry trowel. I use big files medium grit 16 inch one an a fine file. I always like square tips or almost squared off tips on my trowel. My wrists dont get tennis elbow but keep a strong boxers wrist. Like fist angle is slightly arched a few degrees. Keeps my wrists from getting cramped up. Or tendonitis. I can coat 1500 to 2000 lineage feet in bead 2nd coats in a full day by myself emptying a bucket of mud every half hour. An i get less shrinkage by the outside corner like 3 to 4 inches in from outside bead corner edge then that of pan and knife. Less concaves less mess and longer strips of mud per application equals more producttivity. Less tendonitis less wear and tare. Healthy positioned movements an shoulder work out. Less mess is being more conscience of mud controll rolling to the blade edges. I can coat butt joints twice as fast as any pan knife guy making it nice an tight allowing right ample of mud to allow shrinking to keep those butt joints full but yet flat fixing any transitions. My curry trowell has very good flex to it kind of a springy feel to it about 3 times tougher of flex then that of pan and knife. That steel is the best for drywall compound its easier the clean the blade edge. No doing weird bends to your wrists make it easier drinking the big mug of beer earlier after the days work done.
@@smrsmd8522 I'm glad you have a process down. Like I said, whatever works for the individual, nice job. Unfortunately I couldn't get a handle on it. (No pun intended)
@@GRJCLyon yeah trowel mud for second coat 800ml. Full box of mud. To about 900ml. Water. You want it abit on the thick side but theres a certain thickness to the mud. Honest like a sweet spot for troweling. If your trowel blade is sharp enough to shave of off from nicholson 16 inch flat bastard flat file. Then take burrs out with fine file. You want that marange pie like kind of tead to it. And literally leaves Honey combed feathers edges. And sharpness of the blade makes this certain distinct sound off the walls. And it almost feels like the blade wants to move faster then your arm is use to. That soft marang. So mud doesnt drip. At all but yet you dont get any waves. And the amount of pressure you normally put simply let the tool do the work. An ease up on pressure. Literally feels like an sounds like gyatine. I can use the hawk an trowel or a pan an knife. But that spring steel in the currie trowels its kind of like a boucy gyatine that cutts that mud on the wall so much finer yet accurately full on those beads and the blade cause its spring steel you can feel that slight flex spring to it when you pick it up off the wall and that little bit of spring keeps the blade cleaner and the blade alloys i guess are more pouress. So the mud cleans off faster. Cause the alloy absorbs moisture. And leaves those honey comb edges almost like it was sanded. Some reason i like those purdy 6 inch surgical stainless steel blades on finnish 3 way coats. That knife though doesnt last long. Richard 6 inch. But literally its all about those honey combed edges. Another thing im telling tapers. They can get full body 100 percent dyneema speed skating suit. Totally cutt resistant anti fungal and keeps you feeling cool. There should be a company that does dyneema for tapers clothing. 30 years in the bizz im sure youve seen some bloody accidents with knives no matter how good they are or how long theyve been taping. All it takes is one time nasty gash an well there goes a career or death. That new hilti drywall sander vacuum is some new technology to save the tapers lungs and virtually no clean up an better production time less fatigue 180 degree sanding head pivot. Even softer settings for like level 5 coats sands. But check out 100 percent dyneema suits. No more blood and tears just sweat from your forehead.
Found your videos a week ago. I really enjoy them. You guys are EFFICIENT! I already was a hawk & trowel guy, but after seeing how you use them, I ordered a corner roller, flusher, and banjo to give it a try. You guys rock! Thanks for sharing.
Any noticed that the Gyprock sheets don’t have many screws? Relying on glue in the back?
But mate, thumbs up to all the setting parts. So neat, no droppings! Unreal!!!
i had a little go at hawk and trowel amd yeh, hard as F if you have no experience. i made a giant mess. these guys make it look dead simple.
I’d love to hv those skills as a reno builder. Thumbs up from Adelaide
Knuckles are always up🔝 When troweling bead. If you are right handed, you want to be working left to right, vice versa if your a southpaw.
Anche io lavoro cosi... Grandi 💪
I Just bought a hawk and trowl. My trowl doesnt have any flex to it and curves up just a little bit in the middle which i assume is fine for flats and but-joints. But looks like his trowl is perfectly flat...i think i would one like his much better.
Whats the reason for putting mud just on at the corner of the opposite side of outside bead prior to initially applying the mud on area on bead. Like putting the mud onto blade rolling it on the bead so your blade edge tip is over the edge of bead and never moves back towards bead edge. Always moves slight over bead edge. An out from bead approximately from quarter inch to 3 quarter inch of placement when rolling mud on and cleaning it. So 1 tip of trowel is on the wall the other tip of trowel is hanging over the bead edge from 1 8th to a quarter inch to 3 quarter inch on full length of your trowel roll swipe upon putting conpound on prior to cleaning it. What is the purpose of that first technique shown. Of quickly putting an inch strip of mud on corner your not applying the mud to at first. I mean if theres a purpose for it. Potentially less shrinking or removing bubbles in beadex paper. Or kind of filling in plastic bead mesh so theres mud behind the corner so it doesnt twist upon drying or fish eyes occurr? Yeah i apply the paper beadex with metal attached to paper outside corner beadex. If it does something to leave those outside corners more sharp. By that technique of putting that 2 inch strip of mud on opposite wall of corner that you are initially coating. If your resculpting a corner on renovations job on a small spot rather then using a full stick of bead i understand that technique. But those are fresh walls then again i dont use much of those plastic outside corner bead an apply the corner bead with white plastic outside corner bead applicator with the inlet cut ridges like teeth ♒ and with bead roller with left over taping mud thickened up abit. So it automatically fills in any gaps on outside corner. And alows the beadex piece to be sucked on to wall almost while pressing it an positioning bead prior to corner rolling an cleaning it. That white outside plastic bead applicator also leaves bullnose bead without any hollows. So even the round part has mud behind it. Plastic bead also could be applied same way. It takes the same time as stapling it on.
You guys having issues with setting times as well? Man I hate that. What brand are the guys using? We use sheetrock 90 here in Canada. It thickens up as you go and lately it's been getting porous almost immediately
Perfect work
Do you fill your external up first coat with a 10 inch full width then second coat with a 6 inch .
I've seen alot of your videos and I enjoy your channel! I have a question: what is the purpose or reason for the large gap where the walls meet the ceiling? All I have ever seen is the wall boards tight to the ceiling...???
Those corners would typically get covered with crown moulding.
Hello how are you good work God bless you
nice work.
good job
Should do a video of blokes that front swipe when wiping there arse compared to back swipers!
Nice job guys! Can U tell as a proportion water to powder? 😆😅 Yours mass is great!
What trowels do the gangsters use? Marshalltown?
Great work gusy! How long have you been in the game?
Do these guys use stopping boxes or is it all layed with a trowel?
I'm assuming that is a straight trowel. Do they ever use a curved trowel on places like butt joints if they aren't using a mud box? Thx for your videos. Fyi- A little hard to hear him at times.
Have you used the curve trowels on rebated joints?
@@adamdennerley5255 No. I've never owned a curved trowel but was considering getting one to use on at least one coating of butt joints.
@@alwaysvacationing5341 I was thinking about getting one myself,
Do you use mud boxes??????????
@@adamdennerley5255 I don't own any mudboxes but I have used them when I helped a contractor friend of mine mud an entire house. They are really nice if you have lots to do.
I use curved trowels , pretty sure these guys are using curved as well
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How many coat they make on angl.beams
2 base coat 1 top coat then sand
If your not top coating with a Trowel you’re and imposter
Too slow