I live in NY and my friend lives in Florida. Our project which started in July 2024 is to turn a 1981 28' Carver single engine into a "tiny house" on land. She came up for a month and we (mostly her) tirelessly worked on what we called "Phase 1". The boat has been on blocks and stands for about 13 years. Prior to July 2024 we envisioned what it was going to look like and what we were going to do to it. Boy, did that change as we started. We pretty much gutted the inside! A lot of what we did this year will be tweaked next year. The boat is ready to be wrapped for the winter and we are really looking forward to what 2025 will bring.
It seems the repower, and water damage seems to be the major projects , the rest is regular boat rehab from lack of maintaining over the years , will you get all your money invested into it when your done , maybe! But if your a boater and enjoy cruising and exploring and points of unknown destination your journey is just beginning ,enjoy and have fun . There's a pretty good chance that I put the deck on that boat and the hull and deck were made by my family , my pops worked in the varnish dept , I'm a retired.boat builder that worked at carver back then , this old girl deserves a second chance ! 👍🏼
I once owned this same year and model. Some of the best times of my life and lots of family memories. Have a fiberglass expert inspect the hull thoroughly inside and out. Carver was still doing a lot of fiberglass over wood until the mid 80’s. Do this before throwing any substantial money at it. Get rid of the overhead ac unit. It’s loud and won’t cool the stateroom. Spend the money on a nice marine AC w/ reverse heat and duct it thru the settee, galley, and stateroom. Unless you keep it in a covered slip the windows will always leak, Carver fixed this with aluminum frames on newer 3396. Keep the overhead galley cabinet, you won’t regret it. Either remove or completely rebuild that swim platform. I guarantee you at some point you’ll be on the water and people will want to use it. Of extreme importance are the v-drives. They are ungodly expensive to replace so have those inspected as well. Keep them maintained and operate them as designed and they will be bulletproof. Good luck and we look forward to more videos
Chris: it won’t take much to get to that point. Carver isn’t really a highly sought after hull. On the other hand if he’s doing it to use himself and isn’t trying to flip it, he should be fine if he keeps it on the cheap.
Reminds me of an old piano I sat by the road. I put a sign on it for "free" and it sat there for days. I finally changed the sign to say "For Sale, $50" and someone finally picked it up in the middle of the night.
Get yourself a product called Teak-Nu. Brush on part A, scrub with a brush. Brush on Part B, scrub with a second brush, rinse with water. Repeat, comes out like new sanded wood
You most likely need to replace the transom and stringers on the hull of the boat, the plywood usually sucks up water and rots from the inside out. When the bilge pump stops working or the battery goes dead you end up with rain water in the bottom of the boat, the rain water will find its way to the plywood. Take a rubber mallet and hit every inch of the hull to locate the rotted plywood, the sound is different on those spots.
How do you get on the bow? It don't look like the catwalk is wide enough to walk down. And there's no hatch in the front to get up on the bow. I'm just wondering how you get on the Bow.
A remanufactured “base” engine (heads & block) will run about 3k. You will have to evaluate intake and exhaust manifolds along with cooler, and other marinizing hardware. Rubber hoses fuel & water all have to be replaced. If the fuel tank isn’t aluminum, it too must go, but inspect the aluminum through filler fitting and sender port. Senders are dead, trust me. Those are Borg Warner transmissions are the best and if they have been cared for (no partial engagement, water in oil or lack of) they will outlast the boat. If you need to replace them, they cost more than the engine. Very few people can rebuild them correctly. Replace the damper plates and recirculating pumps and the impellers in the raw water pump. Basically you’re looking at 10 k minimum in the engine room alone if you do it yourself. Before you spend a dime, stop and research what you can already find on the market for 30 to 40 k because that’s what you’re gonna spend. Then, if after you fix this boat what would someone actually pay for an old boat. Strip it and scrap it (transmissions, anchor, windless extra) or sell it to someone for a buck.
Jeff Niemeier Jeff I’ve been right where you are. Thought it would cost me 35 k. It’s insidious. A little more, just a little more and I won’t have to spend more. 100k later sold it for 46k. And that’s all my free labor. God I wish I bought land. Unless you buy in a riot city you’re money ahead. The boat I sold: search “Big fast houseboat” on UA-cam. The winner, the guy that bought my boat. I moved out of CA and it would cost way more than it’s worth to move it across the country. B.O.A.T. =Break Out Another Thousand.
... if the motors don't run ... the boat will be worthless . Check the stringers, if they are good ... get to work on the engines. You are lucky that they are Chevy 350's .... parts are widely available ... ( make sure that the coolant system has a heat exchanger as you do not want to circulate "salt water" through the block for cooling ... bad, bad, bad ) That was a popular boat here on the Chesapeake ...
Finally a plastic boat rebuild! One of the comments from boat flipper is so true. I’m worried for you on the stringers, if they are bad a back hoe and dumpster will be your best friend
Wood stringers seem to be good. Just like flipping houses, if the bones are good we can save it. There is a 1968 Chris Craft in the same marina that is a wooden hull. I have no interest in trying to fix a wooden hull....
I'm sure I could but it would not be cost effective for the type of boating I do here on the Upper Mississippi. Gas is easy to find. Diesel pumps not so much... Also, GM 350 parts are available at any car parts store.
that fiberglass work that was done is a keel guard and it looks like several of them were applied its an extra thick section of fiberglass that protects the bow like a bumper. on the stern you'll probably be better off replacing the swim platform with a newer up to date swim platform that matches the teak on the boat. Don't varnish the teak us tongue oil on the teak. also you might want to upgrade the automatic trim tabs as well. over all you got a sweet deal. it's worth the money your going to have to put in to it. check around with the online yacht brokers for prices if you decide to sell it their not cheap.
Trim tabs on this Carver are built directly into the rear hull of the boat.. I have removed them to get rebuilt for next year! I am thinking about removing the swim platform to install a jetski ramp... Anyone have any idea's on this? Really need a jetski or dingy since I can't beach this boat like my friends pontoon boat... Also too large for many of the shoreline bar docks....
You bought it for a dollar for a reason, cost a lot of money to cut up and remove which is what you will be doing to it! Good luck and remember it's only worth about $5,000 in running condition that is if the stringers aren't rotten. 😳😳
It gets old and annoying when people say fixing it up might cost more than its worth. People nowdays lost in capitalism loose sight of the mental and sentimental gain when taking on these projects. Taking something from trash and bringing life back to it is miraculous and it gives back in ways money can't buy.
Thank you for your comment. I completely agree! I will be doing a video in the next few weeks that goes over the financial analysis of what it took to get this boat in the water... What you can't but a dollar amount on is the fun and experience I had in doing it.....
Those are good boats but I would suggest converting to disel engines and make the fresh water cooled and do the hull work first and make sure it’s done right. All the little teal wood and things worry about later the hull is the hardest part
Good question... Water and moisture is the enemy and will cause the fiberglass to delaminate. At 42 years old this fiberglass hull is still going fine! There are stress cracks on top of the hull but the hull its self is in good shape. Many posts are concerned about the wood stringers. I have one spot that is a concern that I will repair this winter. Otherwise all good...
I bet 60k invested will return 90k if the engines are done right. That's just my guess tbh. I'm assuming 20 to 25k for full rebuilds and removal/installation. Also people love watching boats restoration projects. You could make some money from that too
This week I will be posting a new video with the money spent on getting her up and running... Good or bad investment?... The numbers don't lie.... Stay tuned!
is it me or isn't all the wood in the boat Red Mahogany not teak..its beautiful after stripping , sanding and putting a few coats of varnish with wet sanding between each coat.
I got two free boats. A 19' 1969 Glassmaster and a 24' 1976 Thompson cuddy cruiser. Not worth repairing. They sat in my backyard for 18 years. Time to sell the house. I just took a sawzall to the Glassmaster. The Thompson gets the blade tomorrow. Never again will I touch another boat.
stringers are good. some damage to the port side rudder that we can see in the video series... fuel tank is stainless steel and seems to be good. One water tank is good but the other has been unhooked by the previous owner. Have not investigated that one yet and probably won't until next year...
Since I just run the Upper Mississippi, maybe 0, 5, 10-15 miles on a weekend, I don't think I can justify the cost of re-powering 2 engines with diesels...
Clean it up, do the necessary repairs, get junk yard engines, and drive it. Why replace anything that still works? Boat flipping is nothing like flipping houses, just throwing money away unless you're keeping it.
On the other hand, the best and cheapest school to educate me on this boat and what to look for moving forward! The boat launch video comes out later today! Check it out....
@@JoshSees they are usually calculated gallons per hour since wind, wave and currents might change the actual mileage. At wide open throttle you could be looking at 20 gallons per hour for one engine. Most likely around 10-14 though at cruising. Even at 5gph x 2......around $500 to fill and 15 hours to empty. I can only estimate speed at maybe 30 mph, 450 mile range. Pretty much a dollar a mile. I think that is optimistic to say the least and haven't even figured in the slip fees. Hope you really like fishing or something cuz that's one heck of a monthly bill for something you don't use and not cheap to use.
Not sure if you have it, but carver has the manuals online:carveryachts.blob.core.windows.net/media/2718/1978-carver-mariner.pdf (I used to have a 1077 Carver Mariner 3396 - the same boat. )
I have the original manuals plus all of the additions done to the boat, including the appliances and roof AC. Thank you for the link! Hopefully someone here can use it too!
Ongoing slip and storage fee's are part of owning a boat of this size. Would love to find a trailer for it so I have more control and options for storage in the winter...
Planning to flip? I can't see it will be worth it with all the replacements you are planning. Plus, you are going to run into other systems/mechanical issue that will need to be addressed. Get it running and use or is or sell for a couple grand as is and make a profit. It is going to cost you money just sitting there. Of course, if you plan on keeping it, you love it and it's your pride and joy...invest. But I don't think you'll ever get your return.
I'd bet weeks pay the balsa cored hull.is soaked and rotten. Reasons why. 1. Hull was repaired at the bow, poorly 2, hull was repaired at the stern, poorly. Right behind the rudder, that was a log or bottom strike, that bent the rudder back enough to damage the swim platform. 3, most structural material on old Carvers are plywood, 40 years old, and rotten 4, what ever you spend on restoration, just spend on a newer usable boat, that will hold some value better.
I didn't see any damage from the inside on the bow repair. They might of just put a keel guard on the front due to pulling up to sand bars in the past.... As far as the repair on the port rudder, I agree that this may need further research this next spring to determine if there is any wood rot. It seemed to work just fine for the past 3 months but I will be checking it out further this winter and spring when I pull out the port side engine. We replaced the starboard engine, but the port engine is still the same old one. All we did was change the oil. I want to pull the engine out and drop the oil pan to make sure everything is ok and probably change out the oil pump as long as I have it pulled. Fresh paint as well. With the engine out and the generator out, I will be checking out the condition of the wood around that repair... We will be posting a video next week about the money it took to repair this boat and get it on the water... Stay tuned!
@@JeffNiemeier find a spot in the bilge that you can stand, with all your body weight on 1 foot. If there is a lot of flex, the balsa cored hull is soaked, like 99% of all the old Carvers
your concentrating to much on things that will never let you re coop your money, unless your keeping the boat, replacing all the items in the galley is a huge mistake , especially if the items work, its original stuff, that give the boat its alure, clean it up and flip it, the best thing to do is clean , clean clean, thats the best return , believe me what ever you think it will cost, triple it , then add about 5 K,,, don't sweat the non fared fiberglass under the water line, if your flipping, just make certain it does not leak, The way your talking your going to spend a fortune , which you will never see again, threes only so much that boat will fetch, don't go nuts its an old boat , of course if your planning to keep her, then go nuts , it looks like it has potential, but for a flip your going in the wrong direction, I do it all the time , and even if its a nice boat your going to spend thousands and thousands Your engines alone are big money, if your going to keep it, go diesel, it will make the boat worth lots more down the road, you paid 1.00 for it, which may be to much the way your going
I have an 1983 3396 mariner that I am currently fixing/restoring. Amazing to find someone else doing the same.
I live in NY and my friend lives in Florida. Our project which started in July 2024 is to turn a 1981 28' Carver single engine into a "tiny house" on land. She came up for a month and we (mostly her) tirelessly worked on what we called "Phase 1". The boat has been on blocks and stands for about 13 years. Prior to July 2024 we envisioned what it was going to look like and what we were going to do to it. Boy, did that change as we started. We pretty much gutted the inside! A lot of what we did this year will be tweaked next year. The boat is ready to be wrapped for the winter and we are really looking forward to what 2025 will bring.
I took a shot ever time you said teakwood and I’m buzzing damn hard!... thanks
It seems the repower, and water damage seems to be the major projects , the rest is regular boat rehab from lack of maintaining over the years , will you get all your money invested into it when your done , maybe! But if your a boater and enjoy cruising and exploring and points of unknown destination your journey is just beginning ,enjoy and have fun . There's a pretty good chance that I put the deck on that boat and the hull and deck were made by my family , my pops worked in the varnish dept , I'm a retired.boat builder that worked at carver back then , this old girl deserves a second chance ! 👍🏼
I would recommend checking stringers with a moisture meter before getting into an expensive restoration.
It was the first thing I thought of
Carvers best boats ever
Love Carver! Hatteras may be my next boat since Carver is now gone...
That's a nice project. Would have loved to get my dad this as a retirement present.
I just uploaded Part 2: Removing the bottom paint... Check it out...
I once owned this same year and model. Some of the best times of my life and lots of family memories. Have a fiberglass expert inspect the hull thoroughly inside and out. Carver was still doing a lot of fiberglass over wood until the mid 80’s. Do this before throwing any substantial money at it. Get rid of the overhead ac unit. It’s loud and won’t cool the stateroom. Spend the money on a nice marine AC w/ reverse heat and duct it thru the settee, galley, and stateroom. Unless you keep it in a covered slip the windows will always leak, Carver fixed this with aluminum frames on newer 3396. Keep the overhead galley cabinet, you won’t regret it. Either remove or completely rebuild that swim platform. I guarantee you at some point you’ll be on the water and people will want to use it. Of extreme importance are the v-drives. They are ungodly expensive to replace so have those inspected as well. Keep them maintained and operate them as designed and they will be bulletproof. Good luck and we look forward to more videos
Thank you for all of your input!
A lot of fiberglass covered rotten wood now!
I’ve got a 1978 carver. I’m looking forward to more videos. Crusaders are pretty intact. Just a screwy trans on starboardside.
I just uploaded Part 2: Removing the bottom paint.... Check it out...
cool boat neat project ,, a paint job and staining // scared what the engines may cost though
Like to see old boats restored but this one may cost more than it’s worth.
Chris: it won’t take much to get to that point. Carver isn’t really a highly sought after hull. On the other hand if he’s doing it to use himself and isn’t trying to flip it, he should be fine if he keeps it on the cheap.
depending on whether the trans and floor stringers are rotten it shouldn't take to much to put back in the water
That.s lovely boat.. i wish to find same one for same price.. i am waiting to see next clip..to see the changes you will do..👍
Very soon!
Does it float ? All the through hulls good ? Soft spots any where ? Any rot in the stringers .. I would focus more on systems than cosmetics first 😬🤙🏼
Reminds me of an old piano I sat by the road. I put a sign on it for "free" and it sat there for days. I finally changed the sign to say "For Sale, $50" and someone finally picked it up in the middle of the night.
Hahaha. That's funny.😄😄
Wow big job can’t wait to see it done
Thanks!
"I dont need the storage" Said no boat owner in history ever. LOL
Thats true, I think he ever had a boat before 😂
Get yourself a product called Teak-Nu. Brush on part A, scrub with a brush. Brush on Part B, scrub with a second brush, rinse with water. Repeat, comes out like new sanded wood
I’m very interested in how this turns out. I have a 1980 Carver voyager that I’m working on. Just got the engines running.
I just uploaded Part 2: Removing the bottom paint... Check it out...
Justing posting Episode 3 on the Crusader CH270 engines! Check it out...
Interior wood is mahogany, either from Burma or the Philippines
You most likely need to replace the transom and stringers on the hull of the boat, the plywood usually sucks up water and rots from the inside out. When the bilge pump stops working or the battery goes dead you end up with rain water in the bottom of the boat, the rain water will find its way to the plywood. Take a rubber mallet and hit every inch of the hull to locate the rotted plywood, the sound is different on those spots.
Thanks for the info!
We've got enough storage ... said no boat owner ever.
Curious on what kind of wood is on that boat
is there any Teak Wood on this boat?
It appears that the stove/oven is a Princess brand. If it works, you should keep it. They were very good stoves.
How do you get on the bow? It don't look like the catwalk is wide enough to walk down. And there's no hatch in the front to get up on the bow. I'm just wondering how you get on the Bow.
catwalk mainly. Or you could use the bow escape hatch...
A remanufactured “base” engine (heads & block) will run about 3k. You will have to evaluate intake and exhaust manifolds along with cooler, and other marinizing hardware. Rubber hoses fuel & water all have to be replaced. If the fuel tank isn’t aluminum, it too must go, but inspect the aluminum through filler fitting and sender port. Senders are dead, trust me. Those are Borg Warner transmissions are the best and if they have been cared for (no partial engagement, water in oil or lack of) they will outlast the boat. If you need to replace them, they cost more than the engine. Very few people can rebuild them correctly. Replace the damper plates and recirculating pumps and the impellers in the raw water pump. Basically you’re looking at 10 k minimum in the engine room alone if you do it yourself. Before you spend a dime, stop and research what you can already find on the market for 30 to 40 k because that’s what you’re gonna spend. Then, if after you fix this boat what would someone actually pay for an old boat. Strip it and scrap it (transmissions, anchor, windless extra) or sell it to someone for a buck.
All great stuff, but then I wouldn't learn anything and wouldn't have these videos...
Jeff Niemeier
Jeff I’ve been right where you are. Thought it would cost me 35 k. It’s insidious. A little more, just a little more and I won’t have to spend more. 100k later sold it for 46k. And that’s all my free labor. God I wish I bought land. Unless you buy in a riot city you’re money ahead. The boat I sold: search “Big fast houseboat” on UA-cam. The winner, the guy that bought my boat. I moved out of CA and it would cost way more than it’s worth to move it across the country.
B.O.A.T. =Break Out Another Thousand.
Take a shot every time he says teak wood...I dare you.
I just finished a bottle
Woah woah woah!! I cant pour that fast!
What about "look port and starboard", I thought that was BRILLIANT, he most likely says look "left and right" on shore
I got drunk before he even got on the boat. Lol
... if the motors don't run ... the boat will be worthless . Check the stringers, if they are good ... get to work on the engines. You are lucky that they are Chevy 350's .... parts are widely available ... ( make sure that the coolant system has a heat exchanger as you do not want to circulate "salt water" through the block for cooling ... bad, bad, bad ) That was a popular boat here on the Chesapeake ...
A boat always needs more storage
Finally a plastic boat rebuild! One of the comments from boat flipper is so true. I’m worried for you on the stringers, if they are bad a back hoe and dumpster will be your best friend
Wood stringers seem to be good. Just like flipping houses, if the bones are good we can save it. There is a 1968 Chris Craft in the same marina that is a wooden hull. I have no interest in trying to fix a wooden hull....
Go ahead, say "teak-wood" one more time! FYI, just saying "teak" is enough, I think we all understand that it's wood.
Just what I was thinking he loves saying teak wood
As opposed to teak-aluminum and teak-fiberglass.
LMAO!
Wonder if you could change those gas 350s for a couple of diesel-powered engines?
I'm sure I could but it would not be cost effective for the type of boating I do here on the Upper Mississippi. Gas is easy to find. Diesel pumps not so much... Also, GM 350 parts are available at any car parts store.
that fiberglass work that was done is a keel guard and it looks like several of them were applied its an extra thick section of fiberglass that protects the bow like a bumper. on the stern you'll probably be better off replacing the swim platform with a newer up to date swim platform that matches the teak on the boat. Don't varnish the teak us tongue oil on the teak. also you might want to upgrade the automatic trim tabs as well. over all you got a sweet deal. it's worth the money your going to have to put in to it. check around with the online yacht brokers for prices if you decide to sell it their not cheap.
Trim tabs on this Carver are built directly into the rear hull of the boat.. I have removed them to get rebuilt for next year! I am thinking about removing the swim platform to install a jetski ramp... Anyone have any idea's on this? Really need a jetski or dingy since I can't beach this boat like my friends pontoon boat... Also too large for many of the shoreline bar docks....
You didn't buy a boat, you bought a hulk.
It needs two engines because it is a heavy pig with a planing hull.
Lol. Have you ever driven one of these pigs? Planing hull might be a bit of a stretch
You bought it for a dollar for a reason, cost a lot of money to cut up and remove which is what you will be doing to it! Good luck and remember it's only worth about $5,000 in running condition that is if the stringers aren't rotten. 😳😳
I would pay 1.00 for it in a heartbeat
It gets old and annoying when people say fixing it up might cost more than its worth. People nowdays lost in capitalism loose sight of the mental and sentimental gain when taking on these projects. Taking something from trash and bringing life back to it is miraculous and it gives back in ways money can't buy.
Thank you for your comment. I completely agree! I will be doing a video in the next few weeks that goes over the financial analysis of what it took to get this boat in the water... What you can't but a dollar amount on is the fun and experience I had in doing it.....
@@JeffNiemeier Sweet it will be cool to watch!
Those are good boats but I would suggest converting to disel engines and make the fresh water cooled and do the hull work first and make sure it’s done right. All the little teal wood and things worry about later the hull is the hardest part
That's the plan!
How long can a fibreglass hull last? 40, 50 years or more?
Good question... Water and moisture is the enemy and will cause the fiberglass to delaminate. At 42 years old this fiberglass hull is still going fine! There are stress cracks on top of the hull but the hull its self is in good shape. Many posts are concerned about the wood stringers. I have one spot that is a concern that I will repair this winter. Otherwise all good...
I bet 60k invested will return 90k if the engines are done right. That's just my guess tbh. I'm assuming 20 to 25k for full rebuilds and removal/installation. Also people love watching boats restoration projects. You could make some money from that too
Uh oh. Someone mentioned the stringer question. No mention of a deep survey?
Right!! 😳😳
You might have paid too much.
Lmao
This week I will be posting a new video with the money spent on getting her up and running... Good or bad investment?... The numbers don't lie.... Stay tuned!
@@JeffNiemeier I wish you the most success and I hope that you are able to make some money when you sell.
@@goutvols103 no one ever makes flipping boats unless it is the paid workmen or the yacht seller agent.
I hope someone qualified checked the stringers for rot. I've seen a few of these old Carvers with rotten stringers.
Seems to be the #1 concern people are commenting about...
@@JeffNiemeier there is a good reason for that. Heed the advice of your viewers.
Keep her shinny side up!
is it me or isn't all the wood in the boat Red Mahogany not teak..its beautiful after stripping , sanding and putting a few coats of varnish with wet sanding between each coat.
According to the Carver Service Manual, Interior wood and paneling is mahogany and burmese teakwood is used on the exterior.
I got two free boats. A 19' 1969 Glassmaster and a 24' 1976 Thompson cuddy cruiser. Not worth repairing. They sat in my backyard for 18 years. Time to sell the house. I just took a sawzall to the Glassmaster. The Thompson gets the blade tomorrow. Never again will I touch another boat.
Defiantly not for everyone! The marina is trying to give me another one... 1980's.... Not touching it!
Cool boat
DO not take out storage you will regret it
What is the condition of the stringers, fuel tank?
stringers are good. some damage to the port side rudder that we can see in the video series... fuel tank is stainless steel and seems to be good. One water tank is good but the other has been unhooked by the previous owner. Have not investigated that one yet and probably won't until next year...
Replace with diesels, it will cost more up front , but will be cheaper to operate
Since I just run the Upper Mississippi, maybe 0, 5, 10-15 miles on a weekend, I don't think I can justify the cost of re-powering 2 engines with diesels...
Do you call pine “pine-wood”?
Now I know better... ;-)
Clean it up, do the necessary repairs, get junk yard engines, and drive it. Why replace anything that still works? Boat flipping is nothing like flipping houses, just throwing money away unless you're keeping it.
The most expensive boat you can buy is a free boat.
On the other hand, the best and cheapest school to educate me on this boat and what to look for moving forward! The boat launch video comes out later today! Check it out....
I think you already "banged your head going into the cabin". The teak wood is the last and least of your problems, not the first.
Episode 5: Boat Launch - set to premier later today... Check it out...
I think they should have given you a dollar to take it instead.
Interesting
paid $1for that boat? seller got a great deal. it's not easy as it seems to get rid of unwanted boats.
I'd hate to pay the fuel bill when it runs lol
150 gallon tank. $3.20 per gallon on water. You do the math... About 1.5 miles per gallon...
@@JeffNiemeier well at least it's miles per gallon :-) could be gallons per mile ;-D
@@JoshSees they are usually calculated gallons per hour since wind, wave and currents might change the actual mileage. At wide open throttle you could be looking at 20 gallons per hour for one engine. Most likely around 10-14 though at cruising.
Even at 5gph x 2......around $500 to fill and 15 hours to empty. I can only estimate speed at maybe 30 mph, 450 mile range. Pretty much a dollar a mile. I think that is optimistic to say the least and haven't even figured in the slip fees. Hope you really like fishing or something cuz that's one heck of a monthly bill for something you don't use and not cheap to use.
Could be the video, but that wood looks like Mahogany to me.
Yes, Mahogany on the inside. Teak on the outside trim. Might also be Mahogany on the back doors...
You bought some fiberglass and have to replace everything else
It's a termite problem and a fuel tank problem and engine problem it will cost 53 thousand or more wish you luck
Call it teak not teakwood after the 1st time lol
SO MUCH THIS!
Not sure if you have it, but carver has the manuals online:carveryachts.blob.core.windows.net/media/2718/1978-carver-mariner.pdf (I used to have a 1077 Carver Mariner 3396 - the same boat. )
I have the original manuals plus all of the additions done to the boat, including the appliances and roof AC. Thank you for the link! Hopefully someone here can use it too!
@@JeffNiemeier nice. It's a wonderful boat. Our old one is a liveaboard in Seattle. Good luck with yours!
Screaming for a pod and outboard...swim platform either side.
You bought a boat...You crazy Fool....Hahaha
Everyone needs an expensive hobby....
You lost me at “it’s got two props that kinda rotate”😳
You mean counter rotate. Like in opposite directions...
If you can keep it somewhere rent free? Its worth it, otherwise no.
Ongoing slip and storage fee's are part of owning a boat of this size. Would love to find a trailer for it so I have more control and options for storage in the winter...
Planning to flip? I can't see it will be worth it with all the replacements you are planning. Plus, you are going to run into other systems/mechanical issue that will need to be addressed. Get it running and use or is or sell for a couple grand as is and make a profit. It is going to cost you money just sitting there. Of course, if you plan on keeping it, you love it and it's your pride and joy...invest. But I don't think you'll ever get your return.
Will it cost more to restore it than you can sell it for in the end? You might get stuck with it !!!
Last sold for $18,000 in 2013.
I'd bet weeks pay the balsa cored hull.is soaked and rotten.
Reasons why.
1. Hull was repaired at the bow, poorly
2, hull was repaired at the stern, poorly.
Right behind the rudder, that was a log or bottom strike, that bent the rudder back enough to damage the swim platform.
3, most structural material on old Carvers are plywood, 40 years old, and rotten
4, what ever you spend on restoration, just spend on a newer usable boat, that will hold some value better.
I didn't see any damage from the inside on the bow repair. They might of just put a keel guard on the front due to pulling up to sand bars in the past.... As far as the repair on the port rudder, I agree that this may need further research this next spring to determine if there is any wood rot. It seemed to work just fine for the past 3 months but I will be checking it out further this winter and spring when I pull out the port side engine. We replaced the starboard engine, but the port engine is still the same old one. All we did was change the oil. I want to pull the engine out and drop the oil pan to make sure everything is ok and probably change out the oil pump as long as I have it pulled. Fresh paint as well. With the engine out and the generator out, I will be checking out the condition of the wood around that repair... We will be posting a video next week about the money it took to repair this boat and get it on the water... Stay tuned!
@@JeffNiemeier find a spot in the bilge that you can stand, with all your body weight on 1 foot.
If there is a lot of flex, the balsa cored hull is soaked, like 99% of all the old Carvers
Do any work or just talk.?
your concentrating to much on things that will never let you re coop your money, unless your keeping the boat, replacing all the items in the galley is a huge mistake , especially if the items work, its original stuff, that give the boat its alure, clean it up and flip it, the best thing to do is clean , clean clean, thats the best return , believe me what ever you think it will cost, triple it , then add about 5 K,,, don't sweat the non fared fiberglass under the water line, if your flipping, just make certain it does not leak, The way your talking your going to spend a fortune , which you will never see again, threes only so much that boat will fetch, don't go nuts its an old boat , of course if your planning to keep her, then go nuts , it looks like it has potential, but for a flip your going in the wrong direction, I do it all the time , and even if its a nice boat your going to spend thousands and thousands Your engines alone are big money, if your going to keep it, go diesel, it will make the boat worth lots more down the road, you paid 1.00 for it, which may be to much the way your going
Thanks for the input!
lotta work & TLC & money but for a buck how could ya complain if ya like projects anyway
I am a project guy but boats seem to be my new hobby... Just bought boat #2....
You can stop saying teakwood. Do you say oakwood?
Or plywoodwood?
plywoodwood?
@@JeffNiemeier , exactly.
Carvers suck. There is a reason this hasn't been restored. It is not worth it.
Meh, only interested in sailboats
To each their own...