We we were mentored by Yoda, I mean Yota,, so that's why the force is strong with us. Great to hear our videos have helped you out so much. You're very welcome and Happy Wrenching!
Between you and a couple of other UA-cam 4Runner vids.....you have saved me a ton of money, but most important, the job was done right the first time. I'm going to order my genuine Toyota OEM parts as soon as I'm done typing this.. Love this. I subscribed.
@@FlorentinoRebuildingCo.5644 that is freaking radical dude! Thanks so much for taking the time to comment and we are so stoked that our videos are helping you save money and take on your own repairs. - Sean 😎🤙🏼
Timmy We were chatting on the Tundra brake video comment section. I was at Lowe's and spotted a Kobalt 3/8" flex head ratchet and it looked promising. I was able to remove both mounts with relative ease! However, opposite of your instructions, the ratchet handle for me was able to rotate by cranking it upward. I was able to do the ratcheting with the handle passing between the exhaust manifolds and the engine bay inner fender! Once they were loose I switched back to the 1/4" drive ratchet from below as you were successful. On the passenger side the ratchet handle rubs the manifold shield pretty snug but press on. The drivers side becomes much easier by disconnecting the alternator wires/abs wire/various vac hoses or at least disconnect their brackets. I've went ahead and destroyed my new mounts by cutting off the threaded portion and put a 1/2" bolt/washer/nut through the entire thing. I came across a blog mentioning this mod allows the engine to settle/press on the mounts but it will not be able to "pull" on them. Allowing for compression and better transfer of engine rotational force! We shall see : ) Thanks for your help and the encouragement
Great video Tim , I learned my lesson today, Always buy oem or you will do it twice 🤣I bought an aftermarket which looked identical once I removed the old one the new wouldn’t align!
Yep, OEM is the safe way to go. I have used aftermarket parts, mainly aftermarket suspension products and bushings but I stick with OEM for most other things.
The whole drivetrain is suspended with mounts. The engine mounts must have had enough give to throw off the bolt alignment for the trans mount. Were you doing this on level ground or at a slant? It's better not to have gravity working against you. You'll have to get in there with some large pry bars and shift the transmission in the direction it needs to go for the bolt holes to line up. And I just remembered, you could have bolted the trans mount on backwards. Did you try flipping it?
Dang those are some of the most difficult bolts to get to (engine mounts)!! 6 hours later😂 i will share some info that applies to lifted vehicles . If your truck/4runner is lifted or sitting on 33 inch or bigger tires you will run into some problems- i had to special order some taller jack stands as my frame sits at about 24 inches off the ground . Also A high lift jack with wheel lift mate to get the truck into the air. Unless you have some special jack that goes above 24 inches (most dont) . Also unless u have a special jack you will need to implement the engine hoist as the regular heavy duty jack didnt lift the engine high enough to get new mounts in. Thanks Timmy for the video , youre the man!
Tim thanks for the vid it helped out a lot. I have a 97 yota taco reg cab 4x4 auto 3rz engine, 4 speed tranny (A3040F) when I was changing the transmount I noticed previous owner put the bottom white part more towards the rear and I remember in your video you say to face it to the engine, well I did that and after snugging up the bolts and getting ready to put the crossmember I saw it was impossible to put the crossmember it wouldnt line up. So I reversed it with the white point pointing towards the rear like the previous owner had it and it fit like a glove…idk why mines was like that, just thought I let anyone know. Also for the reg cab on mine it was hard to find the part number as its discontinued but it overceeds another part number that even the toyota guys behind the counter cant see 12371-35090 just wanted to say thank you Tim your videos are appreciated and honestly ther was a time I wouldnt even change my own oil but thanks to you I feel like a toyota tech lol
You're very welcome and thanks for sharing your experience with the trans mount. Great to hear our videos are inspiriting you to turn wrenches on your Tacoma. Happy Wrenching!
@@elliiothart18 I can't remember. That was a long time ago. The mounts allow for some movement, because that's what they were designed to do. As long as the rubber isn't cracked, ripped or separated from the metal, the mount is still good.
I just wanna drop a comment and say thanks again! I needed some info on what exactly I needed to buy and almost bought that metal piece that goes between the rubber mount and engine. Thanks for all the hard work you do with these videos!
Did it help to reduce the movement when you shift from P to R and from R to D? I also found that my 4Runner also seems to have excessive movement (more than what I expect) when shifting from P to R and from R to D.
I did the job thinking it might be the cause of a rear end clunk I had. I never had any issues when shifting. It didn't correct the rear end clunk. The clunk I am experiencing is an issue with the driveshaft slip yoke. But, worn out engine and transmission mounts could be the cause of your problem. It's worth a shot to replace them.
@@saltysf It's got to be the driveshaft slip yoke binding and then becoming unbound. The only time I've been able to get rid of the rear end clunk is right after manually greasing the slip yoke splines, but in my case, it doesn't last too long. For some, the clunk stays away for a lot of miles.
The nuts that hold the cross member to the frame may be pinch to lock (not sure if this is the correct term) which, may explain why they were so hard to get off. A pinch to lock nut is slightly deformed (a little oblong in the center) and lock better than nylon lock nuts. This is especially true for bigger nuts and nuts that are frequently removed and reused. I use them whenever I can and love them even though they take considerably more effort to install and remove. When you get done you know the nuts will not back out. Especially useful for the sway bar brackets and end links.
We agree, some type of nut that locks not the bolt gives more piece of mind but you should always inspect your vehicle especially before & after trips on the trails as things can get jolted around & attempt to loosen up.
Whats the name of the two bushings next to the cam adjuster i need to get those two bushings (look in the video 38:11) thank you and await your favorable response.
Those are the Differential Support Arm Bushings. Toyota doesn't sell them separately. They make you buy the whole arm. But, the Durobumps company makes replacement bushings for that application. We show how to replace them in this video: ua-cam.com/video/KpkzuDFvSW0/v-deo.html
It's got to be the rear slip yoke binding. When I've taken the rear slip yoke off the driveshaft and greased it really well, the clunk goes away for a little bit but eventually comes back. I've learned to live with it for now. Eventually, I'm just going to buy an aftermarket driveshaft from somewhere, most likely from Tom Woods.
@@mmmansuy I never got a replacement rear driveshaft. I still have the rear end clunk. I was thinking I'd eventually get a replacement driveshaft from Tom Woods.
@@TimmyTheToolman shucks! nobody seems able to figure this thing out. did you remove your rear driveshaft & drive in 4wd? cus when I did I still had the clunk which should basically eliminate the rear shaft.
@@mmmansuy I never removed the rear driveshaft and drove in 4wd but I did notice the clunk would go away for a while after a good greasing of the slip yoke. I'm convinced it's a driveshaft issue.
Thanks for the video Timmy. Your page has saved the day more than once. The problem I’m having with my motor mounts is the 14mm holes don’t line up after taking the jack out. I’ve got the 17mm bolt in and the nut on, but it looks as if I need to pull my motor forward a good inch or so. Any tips for anyone else like me having problems lining the mount with the frame?
Hey Collin, good to hear our videos are helping you out. In regards to the motor mount not lining up, sometimes the drivetrain shifts a bit on you. You'll have to manipulate the motor to get it to line up and you can usually find a purchase with a large pry bar to force it over in the direction you need it to go. Did you purchase OEM motor mounts?
@@collinclark5573 Did you do a close examination of the mount you bought compared to the OEM one you removed. I've seen problems with aftermarket mounts and that's maybe the issue you're experiencing.
Thanks for sharing the information. I have a 2wd tacoma 2003 3.4 prerunner and the issue I've been having is the vibration going uphill at around 5 to 15 uphill. I replaced the drive shaft center bearing but it still vibrating. Could thus be the tranny and motor mounts? Thanks for the help.
@TimmyTheToolman yes, all is good. The only things I haven't replaced are the motor and transmission mounts. I really hope is not the transmission. Thanks again for everything. I really appreciate it.
I just did this on my 00 Tacoma 2.7, 2wd. My transmission mount needed replacement. I didn’t need to remove the cross member. But the front two motor mounts didn’t need to be replaced, be sure to check for movement of the engine before you replace the engine mounts. I used the thin flex head double ended rachet from harbor freight, worked great. When working on the front two motor mounts, remove the air intake hose to give the engine more room to move vertically. Finally, take your driveshaft to a driveline shop when finished to balance it. This will keep the trans mount from wearing out again and reduce vibrations in your driveline. Very good rundown on replacing these mounts, thank you!
Your trans mount might be different, but I'm not certain. I've never replaced a trans mount for a manual transmission model. When you order the parts, make sure you are selecting the manual transmission model option.
@@TimmyTheToolman part # listed for the transmission mount is #12371 - 62120 ... that would be the best way to tell if they are different on the parts diagram
I don't have a manual for your rig There is a way to get the information you need though. Toyota has a website called Tech Info. You can buy a 2-day membership for $20 and download all the content you want. techinfo.toyota.com/techInfoPortal/appmanager/t3/ti?_nfpb=true&_pageLabel=ti_home_page&contextType=external&username=string&password=secure_string&challenge_url=techinfo.toyota.com/techInfoPortal/login/techinfo&request_id=-5518364760491963150&authn_try_count=0&locale=en_US&resource_url=https%3A%2F%2Ftechinfo.toyota.com%2F
How much easier are the motor mounts if say the front diff was already removed for other reasons? I have to pull it anyway, might as well do it now if it will make the motor mount job easier. Thanks, super helpful videos man.
Actually, releasing the driver side motor mount and jacking up the engine makes getting the front differential out much easier. Check out our video for the front differential replacement and read the comment we pinned that describes the steps to get the differential out much easier. So, the steps I'd do are: 1) Jack up under oil pan with light pressure. 2) Remove bolts that hold the driver side motor mount to the frame 3) Jack up motor a couple inches and place some spacer block or wedge between the frame and mount to maintain the height you just gained and get the jack out of your way. 4) Remove the rubber vacuum tubes and breather hoses from the metal vacuum and breather lines. Then release the metal lines from the top of the differential so you can manipulate them out of the way of the power steering lines as you remove the differential 5) Disconnect the electrical connection to the front diff actuator 6) Disconnect the front and rear diff mounts and get the differential out. 7) Next jack up the motor up a bit again and get the wedge out of your way. 8) Remove the driver side motor mount from the engine, and get the new one in. 9) Remove and replace the passenger side motor mount 10) Lower the engine down and get the passenger side motor mount attached to the passenger side frame 11) Jack the motor back up and get the wedge put back between the driver side frame and engine mount. 12) Get your front differential back in and all bolted up 13) Finally jack up engine, remove wedge or block and get the driver side motor mount bolted to the frame and you're all done. How's that for a response?
Very helpful! Would it make sense to start supporting at the oil pan before loosening the front mount attachments to the frame? It seems like I'd be asking for things to slip out of place if the jack isn't holding the engine.
The engine mounts can't slip just by removing the bolts. There's tabs that the mounts settle against. The bolts don't hold up the engine. They just keep the mount in place on their mounting brackets.
Never fixed it. It's clear to me it's a problem with the rear driveshaft slip yoke binding while coming to a stop and then unbinding. Greasing the slip yoke would work for a while but then the clunk would come back. I think the only way to fix it is to replace the driveshaft.
Jeff Cannon Hey Jeff, no it didn't get rid of it but it improved a little. I think mine is mostly due to the slip yoke binding on the rear driveshaft. Lubricating the yoke better by pulling the yoke off the main driveshaft has helped the most but I think the splines have received excessive wear due to being insufficiently lubricated for most of it's life. The zerk fitting does a horrible job of greasing the splines. All the grease ends up on the bottom of the yoke and hardly any grease gets onto the splines where it's needed. It's my belief that the splines have some type of special coating to allow them to slide easier because I've seen different shades of color on the splines showing something wore off. So, I guess I'll live with the clunk for now. Maybe I'll buy an aftermarket driveshaft at some point from a company like Tom Woods. The double card joint is pretty much not serviceable if a ujoint goes bad so many decide to go aftermarket when that happens.
Timm your video's are super helpful for maintaining my 3rd gen thanks. The mount is different on the RWD Limited and is not directly below the cross member, this became an issue when i lowered the transmission from my jack and the bolts had shifted 1/2 an inch and i'm unsure on how to get it back where i should and no one makes as helpful videos as you if you have any advice i'm open to it. I appreciate what you do!
Sounds like you need to use some persuasion with a pry bar. If the mount is bolted up properly to the transmission and the cross member is where it should be too, it's just a matter of flexing the mount so the mount holes lines up properly with the cross member holes. I hope that makes sense.
It does thanks for the reply the original mount is back installed with new hardware since the rubber was in decent shape. I just had to learn a classic lesson of avoiding aftermarket parts.
Did replacing them solve any type of vibration? I'm getting a vibration in my floorboard when accelerating or constant throttle. Checked using your method and saw some vertical movement of the engine.
No, it didn't solve any vibration for me. If you have a 4wd model, it might be an issue with your driver side front differential needle bearing that the CV axle rides on. Check out this video: ua-cam.com/video/sXIfHArtvF8/v-deo.html
@@TimmyTheToolman actually replaced the needle bearing with the ECGS kit a few weeks ago. When I jack up the front end there is no play in the wheel bearings (12 and 6 o'clock check) and no grinding noises or movement laterally in CV shaft where it goes into the hub and diff. I found the t4r forum thread where you said to check by putting it in gear, foot on brake, and giving it throttle. Definitely see some play up and down in the engine. When I put my foot on the rock slider I can definitely feel a lot of vibration when giving it throttle. Both in drive and neutral. I replaced my trans mount a few months ago because of vibration and the rubber being worn out. Starting to think the engine mounts are going bad since they're 23 years old (have a 99 4wd sr5). I feel a bad vibration in the driver's floorboard when accelerating. Feel it most when going up a hill or gaining speed. Thinking I will replace the mounts with some OEM ones. May solve the issue and if it doesn't it's probably going to be needed to be done eventually. The depressing life of battling my 4Runners issues.
You do awesome demos dude. Checked mine on my 2001, and they are still good. Thought I was going to have to take a drive over to Camelback Toyota but nah.
Hola, puedes decirme si son iguales las 2 bases de los soportes del motor 20 R de un pickup toyota 79? Gracias. Hi, can you tell me if the 2 bases of the 20 R engine mounts of a toyota 79 pickup are the same? Thank you.
What are the part numbers for the 3rd crossmember bolts and nuts that hold it to the frame of the vehicle as well as the four bolts that tie the trans mount to the 3rd crossmember. I want to replace mine and can’t find the part numbers anywhere.
We don't have those part numbers. A local Toyota Dealer parts department will be your best bet. Or, you could just go to a hardware store and match them up.
@@TimmyTheToolman thank your sir I appreciate it. And also I love the videos you have put out and how detailed they are. I just bought a 98 4runner and have been watching your videos non stop for jobs that I need to complete and get done. So thankful to have such great references to go off of
Hey Tim, I was looking at my mount on a 1999 prerunner and the nut on top of the center rubber bushing wasn't even close to the rubber. I can't find any torque on that nut or if its supposed to be snug or totally loose. Do you know if its supposed to be torqued ,snug or loose>Thanks Dave
The top bolt on the transmission mount. I just got the new Toyota mount(12371-62130) and there is less than 1/8" between the top bolt with the big metal washer and the rubber bushing. On my truck the thing must have loosened up because there is 3/4" between the washer and the bolt. I was just wondering if it's supposed to be tight, snug or to leave the less than 1/8" play in the new mount. Mine might have had No damping effect on tranny movement, Thanks Dave @@TimmyTheToolman
Did it fix your clunking sound? That's my problem too. Debating on whether I should change mine out. I'm glad I got a Tundra because the Tacoma is tight
What if my whole engine, transmission, and exhaust moves when I push up on my transmission. It looks like the body mounts where the rubber bushing is not setting up against the metal there’s like a gap in betweeen, I don’t think it’s right and I’d like your help if I could send a video or something and get your advice
Hi Timmy, is there a break in period for engine mounts? I have recently replaced my engine mounts and there is now terrible vibration when the engine is at idle, throughout the pickup. However, when i am driving it seems as if its smoother than before?
That's interesting Matt. I don't think there's a break-in period. The rubber is already pretty pliable with these rubber mounts, at least with the OEM Toyota ones I purchased for this job. Did you buy OEM mounts? Now, for sure if you switched to something like polyurethane mounts, they can cause a ton of vibration because they don't give as much and will transfer engine vibrations to the frame. I know this because my 85 Toyota 4runner has Trail Gear poly mounts. They are strong and won't break under a lot of torque when 4wheeling but they suck when it comes to dampening the engine vibrations. Common sense would say the mounts are causing the new vibration because the problem started right after the swap, but I don't think OEM rubber mounts should do this. If you used aftermarket mounts, then I think that's the culprit. I would go back to using OEM mounts.
Hi Tim, thanks for the video. My 4R has a low/med-pitch rumble and very slight vibration through shifter only during acceleration in gear when I give gas. Is this normal? Because the engine revs smooth with no rumble souund when not in gear. Car accelerates fine. No other vibration. It's that rumble only when I give it gas in gear. It's a 1996 manual, 142k miles. I changed all fluids including diff, trans, t-case, lubed joints, plugs and wires. Ujoints have no play. That rumble occurs at all speeds as soon as car starts moving as long as it's in gear and giving gas. Could it be the trans mount?
Hard to say if it's a bad mount. Sounds more like a driveshaft issue to me. Have you checked for any play in the rear output shaft of the transfer case? It might be something you'd want to get up on a lift and put the vehicle in gear to see and hear what you can to narrow down the source.
Well, there's a chance we might do this for someone at some point but I'd say you probably shouldn't wait for us. This video gives you an idea how to accomplish it so you should be able to figure it out. You just need to make sure you support the transmission and transfer case properly while removing the cross member and replacing the trans mount. Same goes for the engine mounts. Make sure you have the engine properly supported so it's safe to unbolt the motor mounts. Having 120 click point flex head ratchets and having flex head box end wrenches makes these types of jobs much easier because access to turn wrenches is limited.
Timmy on a 96 4runner 2wd does the pins have to go into the motor side. We bought 2 mounts from the local napa & they wouldn't line up with the holes in the mounts. We cut one of them to make it work. Motor jumps more now then it did before. Thanks any help would be greatly appreciated.
general question: if U joints are confirmed good, carrier replaced and slip yoke serviced and you get a dull driveline clunk (can hear and feel) when abruptly letting off the gas at moderate - highway speed, does that strongly point to a compromised mount?
Not sure if that's a bad mount causing the clunk. There's more torque on the driveline components when you're on the gas pedal and then less when you let off so something is torquing and then relaxing. It could possibly be a mount. I think it might be from the rear end. Possibly excessive backlash between the ring and pinion gears. To rule out the trans mount, get a person to help you and put them in the driver seat while you're under the rig. With their foot on the brake, have the shift back and forth into reverse and drive while you're watching the trans mount. If the mount is bad, you'll see gross movement.
@@TimmyTheToolman thanks for the reply and input! i think i'm just gonna go ahead and replace it and see, since the driveline is otherwise running smoothly and that rubber gets hard and cracks over time
Timmy ,I have a problem ,I have a 2wd and it bumps /jerks ,like a strong rock detween D and R ,also a light jerk between first second and third gear on low rev
Do you think by using a boxed end crows foot on a torque wrench that you could torque the nuts and bolts to spec or would that probably not work? Thank you very much for the videos. I can't tell you how much they help a DIY'er do all the things that you do. And if you have a 2000 4Runner with 200,000 miles like I do you'll likely be doing almost all of the things you cover at some point. Again thank you very much.
Hey Mark, it may work with a crows foot for the two bolts and nuts that hold the engine mounts to the frame. For that center nut that holds the mount to the engine, I don't think it's possible. Glad you like our videos. You're very welcome and Happy Wrenching!
It's hard to diagnose via the internet. It could be a bad transmission mount or maybe it's an issue with the transmission itself. Have someone in the driver's seat switch the gears from drive to reverse over and over again while you are under the vehicle trying to detect where the movement and noise is coming from. Just chose someone you trust that isn't going to run over you. Good luck!
@@TimmyTheToolman gracias por la respuesta , realice eso verifique soportes , y esta todo bien , viene como de la parte del cardan delantero , en ese pedazo de las junta homocinetica. . mi pregunta es PUEDE UN JUNTA HOMOCINETICA CAUSAR ESE GOLPE ? O LA TRICETA DEL MISMO ? GRCIAS
Did you feel a difference at all with the new transmission mount? You said you had a clunk. What ended up making that sound? Same issue on my 95 Tacoma with the 5vzfe
@@TimmyTheToolman watching a few other videos of Toyota trucks/suv from many years apart, they seem relatively about the same. Gonna crawl under the truck today and see what I’m looking at. Thanks for the reply and video upload!
@@caelanwilliamson4284 I've seen engine and transmission mounts on many Toyota and they were all very similar. I just don't want to steer anyone wrong and tell them the process would be identical when I don't know for sure. Good luck with the job.
No, it didn't fix the rear end clunk. The only thing I've found that lessens the clunk is removing the slip yoke and greasing it really good. At first I would be clunk-free for almost 10,000 miles but now it only lasts a few hundred. I think my driveshaft slip yoke was under-lubricated for most of it's life and it just needs to be replaced now. There's a decent amount of play in the splines and I think that increases the ability for it to bind. I might pick one up a local shop that makes custom driveshafts. I have a couple videos for the slip yoke binding fix so check them out. ua-cam.com/video/oKX5UeE2Txs/v-deo.html ua-cam.com/video/Jyltxe2nPEg/v-deo.html It has fixed other people's clunks so it's worth a try. The brand new engine and trans mounts still allow for a fair amount of movement in the drivetrain so you'll still see your shifter moving even after installing new mounts.
@@TimmyTheToolman I had a rear end clunk and noticed it at every stop light and sometimes in reverse. I noticed that it was the u bolts that hold the rear axle and the rear leafs. they were loose and tightened them to spec and fixed the problem. this happened on my 98 tacoma. checking and torquing your u bolts its something worth checking. good luck and hope that fixes your issue.
Francisco Valle this is definitely worth checking on vehicles with leaf springs. 4runners don’t have leaf springs but my 1st gen does and I noticed they were loose when I bought it. Tightened it up and things are happy again.
The mileage was around 150-160k but if you wheel your rig you should consider replacing your lower ball joints every 50-60k miles or maybe sooner. We now link all the tools we use on jobs so people can get the same tools or buy something similar if they need them.
Don't know. I never touched it. That is not something you have to mess with. That nylon nut fits into the cross member but isn't connected to anything.
@@TimmyTheToolman I only ask because I replaced mine a few months back and today I discovered it off and rolling around in the cross member. I took it all apart and this time I tightened it down. Hopefully I didn’t over tighten.
Unfortunately, I had to pay someone to replace my mounts. Expensive as hell. But, what I wanted to ask is what would you use if you did not have a transmission jack. Can you use a regular jack?...thks..jc
A regular jack could work, but if you were going to jack up under the transmission pan, you'd have to place a board on the jack to disperse the load so the trans pan wouldn't get damaged from concentrating the load on the small patch offered with a standard floor jack.
After 4 yrs, have you solved the clunk issue? I have a 2004 tacoma v6 4wd and when I some to a stop, I feel a clunk behind me like it is from the rear. I've researched and some people said it is axle wrap, but when I come to a stop, I shift to neutral and it doesn't clunk. Some people said it is the transmission mount or the drive shaft center support. I'm out of town and haven't looked at my mount or support yet. Another guy said he changed all his vent lines and it went away. He assumed it was some vent line to the transmission. Do you think the drive shaft support or the vent lines could be causing the clunk?
I do not think the vent line on the transmission could cause this. That just lets out pressure out as the trans heats up. I do think severely worn mounts could cause it but it didn't fix my issue. I think it's the slip yoke binding. When you are coming to a stop, the suspension compresses and the slip yoke slides into the main propeller shaft. If the slip yoke and propeller shaft are sliding well with each other, the yoke will release smoothly as you coast to a stop. If the yoke is not sliding well with the propeller shaft, it sort of binds. When the forward force from the braking eases up, the slip yoke doesn't release gently but rather finally releases in one big clunk of a movement. The zerk fitting for the slip yoke does not effectively lubricate the splines. It's a crappy design. Most of the grease just sits in the pocket at the end of the shaft. You really have to over-grease the slip yoke to get grease to push up into splines. My 2000 4runner still has the problem. I got rid of it for short periods of time by manually greasing the splines. Give it a try and let me me know if it helped you. I have two videos for it. What I'm planning on doing is just replacing the driveshaft with one from Tom Woods when the problem gets too annoying to ignore. So far, I've been fine living with the rear end clunk. ua-cam.com/video/oKX5UeE2Txs/v-deo.html ua-cam.com/video/Jyltxe2nPEg/v-deo.html
That's our style. We try to be as detailed and comprehensive as possible so we give the viewer the best chance at success with the job. This makes our videos longer than most UA-cam automotive videos but we figure people will watch what they need to see and skip over areas they don't need instruction on. We'd rather give people more information than not enough. Glad you like the video and thanks for taking the time to comment. Happy Wrenching!
reports on a popular tacoma forum says that a new pair of engine insulators will resolve a shake in the 5sp MT stick at the 60mph equivalent 2200 RPM range. this noticeable shaking in the shifter stick all started on my rig after the rebuilt R150F from Yota1 was installed. So i do not have a clue what is going on here with my rig!!. Transmission wonky? engine isolators wonky? something else going on that needs to be addressed??
those motor mounts now have an MSRP of 90$ each in Nov-2o23... transmission mount for the MT is not available 8^( .... what would you suggest for the trans mount? are there aftermarket available that are of near-like quality
I don't know if there are aftermarket trans mounts that are of good quality, but, it that's all you can get, that's all you can get. I'm sure they'll work fine but might not last as long.
@@TimmyTheToolman Do you have any suggestions as to what brand. I'm having a real difficult time finding motor mounts. All I see are DEA, Anchor, and Beck Arnley, non of which seem to have good things said about them. Maybe a call to the local Toyota dealer is in order.
@@paulbreaux909 Try using Partsouq.com to look up the part numbers and then you can search the part numbers for the lowest price. I suggest only using Toyota OEM mounts.
I'm not 100% sure but that nylon plug recesses into the cross member and most likely helps support the mount so not all the force is being applied to those very small bolts that attach the mount to the cross member.
Timmah! Love your videos. I've used them as a reference to do lots of work on my 1st gen Tacoma. Like you, I replaced my transmission mount a while back hoping that it would alleviate some of the drive line clunk & transmission movement I was experiencing. Unfortunately, It didn't seem to help that much. I just think axel wrap & drive line movement is something that Tacoma & 4runners owners have to deal with. Seems to be endemic with the 2 piece drive shaft design.
twack19 Watch our Slip Yoke Binding Fix video. It's most likely your slip yoke binding. My clunk improved after lubricating the slip yoke better but the problem is still there. Some people outright fix the problem by getting it properly lubricated so it's worth a shot for you.
twack19 I was thinking there was a chance you could raise the transmission high enough to get the mount out but since I had experience removing the cross member when we replaced Sean's transmission, I knew it was a pretty easy thing to get out of the way. Thanks for taking the time to comment and share this info.
Hey man thanks for the video! I am hoping your expertise and experience can help. I have a 1995 2.7 4x4 with the auto trans that I want to do the same job on. I had no prob sourcing the engine mounts but for the love of everything holy I cannot find the correct transmission mount. Part number oem is 12371-35090 but it has been discontinued and no supersession! Looked EVERYWHERE and nothing. I tried putting in a 12371-0c030 but compared to oem side by side it is just a bit more taller (maybe 1/8” taller) however it bolts on.. and the holes line up. Only problem is the crossmember wont go back in because that mount is just a tad taller and I dont want to jack tranny up too much, since it might mess with its alignment?! Any help is appreciated..
@@TimmyTheToolman Nothing available either. Whatever they have it looks nothing like it and will not fit. Haha I think the mounts for the 1995 and 1996 4x4 auto trans 2.7 fell through the cracks or into a parts blackhole! If you hear of anyone with the same issue or possibly having one laying around it would be so awesome!! I am sure I am not the only one!
After checking my transmission mount I can't get a pry bar in to test it because both pieces of metal are actually touching. Guess I'll get that ordered
Timmy, did this fix your rear end thunk? I've got the thunk on hard stops and at my next oil change will lube the slip yoke up and see where that gets me. Thanks for the vids. Keep them coming!!
Andrew, no it didn't get rid of it but it improved a little. I think mine is mostly due to the slip yoke binding on the rear driveshaft. Lubricating the yoke better by pulling the yoke off the main driveshaft has helped the most but I think the splines have received excessive wear due to being insufficiently lubricated for most of it's life. The zerk fitting does a horrible job of greasing the splines. All the grease ends up on the bottom of the yoke and hardly any grease gets onto the splines where it's needed. It's my belief that the splines have some type of special coating to allow them to slide easier because I've seen different shades of color on the splines showing something wore off. So, I guess I'll live with the clunk for now. Maybe I'll buy an aftermarket driveshaft at some point from a company like Tom Woods. The double card joint is pretty much not serviceable if a ujoint goes bad so many decide to go aftermarket when that happens.
Hello timmy! One question what would happen if I did not remove the 4 bolts from the transmission mount the ones attached to the cross member and started to lift the engine in order to replace the 2 engine mounts????
You would just put a little strain on them. The mounts are meant to give quite a bit with the movement of the drivetrain so I doubt you did any damage.
I have a 1st gen tundra that has vibrations when I put it in gear and idle but goes away if I put it in N or park. No vibrations when I’m driving. I can also hear and feel thud if I brake hard. Can this be my transmission mount? Can’t find any info about it on 1st gen tundras so I assume it’s not common so idk?
Yes, it could definitely be the trans mount. Have someone that you trust not to run you over get in the vehicle while you're under the rig and watch what the drivetrain does when you have them switch the transmission back and forth from Park to Drive and Park to Reverse. There's a good chance the rubber of the trans mount has become separated from the metal.
So it has nothing to do with my mounts. I realized it was my rpms that would drop to around 5-600 when I put it in gear and go back to 800-900 when I put it in P and N. Guess I got to find out why my Rpms are so low.
With intact motor and transmission mounts, very little vibration is transferred to the cabin area. I now have an 85 4runner with aftermarket engine and transmission mounts that's use polyurethane rather than rubber. The mounts are strong but they transfer a ton of noise and vibration to the cabin area. With OEM rubber mounts, even if one was broken, I don't think much transference of vibration would occur. You might get some type of clunk from the broken mount but probably not a vibration.
@@TimmyTheToolman my wife has a 95 4runner 3.0L 4x4 automatic. It has a terrible roaring noise while going down the road at almost all speeds. The roar can't be heard outside the vehicle only while inside. Do you have any suggestions on what I should look at other than the wheel bearings that I have already replaced? Thanks so much!!
@@bradsmith5838 Take a look at the front differential driver side needle bearing that the CV axle rides on. Here's a video of what I'm talking about: ua-cam.com/video/sXIfHArtvF8/v-deo.html
Is it normal for the car to vibrate/shake after changing those mounts? It makes less noise but it just shakes a lot now. Does it have to "settle" over time?
Timmy is there anyway i can find out that info ? Because i followed you’re way and changed everything and my tundra v8 4.7 2006 looks identical to this truck same everything.
Hey timmy my tundra gen 1 2006 v8 4.7 I usually do everything to it. Had to take it for a transmission flush at toyota dealership they told me my transmission mount and cross member is messed up and that i need to replace it. This video shows you doing that too is that correct? If it is you made it look easy man. 🤘🏻
Yes, you could use this video to help you with this. Did your rig take a hit while 4wheeling. If you have some local wrecking yards or PicknPulls you might be able to find a cross member at a big savings over new and then you can get yourself a new mount from Toyota. I'd try finding the mount from an online seller like Camelback Toyota. Local dealers will charge you a lot for a new cross member.
Actually i have no idea how it happened tbh my truck is A 2wd and never touch dirt this is my baby everything i do is oem just my presence exept brakes and lil petty stuff like that but yea man they wrote on the paperwork recommendation cross member and trans mount so i search that up and finally ran into your channel which was very freaking helpful and I subscribed you really taught me alot in this video and im going to check out the rest of them man. I love to learn and do stuff myself but thank you much brother for the time to respond and advice 🤘🏻🤘🏻🤘🏻 i own the xsp tundra 4 full door gen 1
@@nightmaremike1092 You had to hit something on the road at some point to cause the damage. How bad is the damage to the cross member? Maybe the damage isn't that bad. Dealerships and shops like to recommend repairs even when the situation is pretty minor. It's all about getting you back in there so they can make more money off you. My mom has been using a shop for her mechanic needs for a long time and they seemed to be very honest until a recent experience she had with them. They told her she needed to replace her rear brakes and she had a seal leak at her CV axle to transmission connection. I inspected the brakes for her and they were fine. And, the leak they said she had was barely anything. There was a tiny wet spot under the seal. So, she didn't need either of these repairs. I told her for now on she needs to double check with me before she authorizes any repairs on her vehicle. I'll let them change the oil for her but probably nothing more.
Honestly they said there’s a crack on it monday im going to have time to get under and do the test like you did with a pry bar and see if there’s play and I’ll start from there and try to get a second opinion wish i can send a video or pics through you tube lol but im going to inspect it and give it that wiggle and find play. I know how they are it’s all about business now days 🤷♂️ my transmission feels good but lately when i shift it its kinda running just a bit ruff just did an oil change and transmission fluid change not to mention i got a leak only on my rear main seal which im going to have to handle ASAP its just pricey dealer charging 1000$ im not paying that lol im going to try to do it myself just got to drop tranny
@@nightmaremike1092 If there's a crack in the cross member, maybe a local welder could put a bead on it and fix it for next to nothing, maybe $20. And, unless the trans mount rubber is cracked really bad or has become separated from the metal it's sandwiched between, you could leave that alone.
Hey Tim and Sean! Do you think it would be possible to lift the transfer case & transmission off of the crossmember and replace the mount without actually removing the crossmember? About to do this on my truck and wondering if that would be doable.
This is true but it would definitely save some time if I didn't have to remove it and re-install it. I am going to try this route and let you know what I'm able to achieve.
Hey Tim! Finally got around to doing the transmission mount. I was successful. The main reason I wanted to do it this way was because I have an aftermarket crossmember that's 3/8" thick, way heavier and requires more bolts to loosen. It took a little bit of coaxing but I was able to remove it with the transmission jack all the way forward and I slid the mount out toward the front of the vehicle. It may almost be easier to remove the 19mm bolt in the center separating it from the plastic nub at the bottom. I didn't try that though. My mount when removed had 1/8" less gap between the top and bottom plate. It also had some cracking but not more play when mounted in the vice then the new one. The mount was indeed bad and greatly improved the road handling of the vehicle when going over bumps. Hope this comment hopes those as much as your video did. Cheers!
@@fknows1 Most of our audience comes from the US and then it's Canada and Australia comes in 3rd. The internet is pretty amazing. I've exchanged messages with people from all over the world because of this channel. Pretty cool.
i have the same year 4runner 2wd. 2 years ago i replaced my driveshaft. now driving at 67 MPH, its vibrating. would it be the driveshaft is out of balance or a bad yoke or a word transmission mount? thank you, cliff
Vibrations can be hard to figure out. It could be the driveshaft is the culprit. Once a driveshaft is properly balanced, the only way I could see you getting a vibration from it is if one of the u-joints was bad or there was gross play in the splines of the slip yoke. Have you inspected your driveshaft for any play in the u-joints or slip yoke? There is a slim chance the balancing weight on the driveshaft came off, but those are welded on and I sort of doubt that happened but anything is possible. Check to see if the balancing weight is still on the shaft. No driveshaft is perfectly balanced so you should see a round plate somewhere on the shaft welded on. I sort of doubt your transmission mount could be the reason for the vibration but take a look at it and make sure the rubber hasn't become separated from the metal it's sandwiched between.
Do a search on Ebay. You will most likely find a set for sale for your year rig. A fair price is somewhere around $150 for the two volume set. There's also a wiring diagram book too you can get for a total of 3 books.
We're glad you like the video. No, it didn't make a difference. The problem I have is with the rear driveshaft slip yoke binding on the main shaft. I think years of being improperly lubricated caused excessive wear to the splines and I'm just going to have to replace it one day because no amount of greasing helps anymore.
Hey Maynor, I don't know the part number. If you can't figure out the part number via an internet search, you may just have to resort to going to your local Toyota dealer parts department to order it. But, before you do that, call Amanda at Camelback Toyota. parts.camelbacktoyota.com/partlocator/index.cfm?siteid=214329 Amanda handles the online sales for them and there's a chance she could get it for you. Their prices are very competitive with other online parts sellers.
Yes ! I was able to put the transmission mount without having to remove the cross member ! I lifted the transmission and had no problem getting it out ! Mine is a stick transmission too ! The carrier bearing is where most of the wear and tear was ! All Toyota parts ! Little over $400 ! Wonder how much Toyota would have charged me to do that job !! :-)
I just looked at my motor mounts and they look ok !! But I did notices these other mounts just below the motor mounts !! What are they for?? They're not looking so good ! They look like round disc shaped rubber absorbers held by an arm shaped bracket !! Thanks again !
William Goble Hey William, those are your bump stops for when your lower control arm experiences full travel upward. The absorber prevents the control arm from smashing the frame hard.
No not those ! LOL !! No these are different ! I know what your talking about !! Im going to try and find out and let you know ! These have a steal bracket that look like a bent arm !
jake ounce Hey Jake, yeah, I love those gear wrench and other ratcheting head wrenches. Those flex head ratchets with the 120 points of engagement are awesome and we'll worth the expense. I got the rubber pads on Amazon. I'm stuck at a fire way up in Northern California near the Oregon border and it's harder for me to look up my previous purchases and post links to them. When I get home, I'll put a link to all the helpful tools I used for this job in the video description.
jake ounce Thanks Jake. I enjoy going out on these wildland fires but it can be hard work and a little dangerous at times. It can also be very boring because we don't always have a good assignment and we're just sitting around. You basically have to like camping, be able to stomach the same crappy food day after day, like being dirty and being uncomfortable a lot. If you're ok with all that, it's a great time.
You are literally a savior for so many people. Your videos are so important for so many people. You are becoming a legend!! 😂
Thanks for the nice comment Weston. I appreciate it.
This man has saved me so much time and money....had my runner since 2003.....still rolling
That's great to hear our videos are helping you out. Thanks for commenting and letting us know.
Dude you always have the videos that are so hard to find! Keep up the work!
We will keep pumping out the content, Chris.
Your videos rule! the Force is definitely strong with you! Thanks as usual! I've rebuilt my whole truck through your videos!
We we were mentored by Yoda, I mean Yota,, so that's why the force is strong with us. Great to hear our videos have helped you out so much. You're very welcome and Happy Wrenching!
Between you and a couple of other UA-cam 4Runner vids.....you have saved me a ton of money, but most important, the job was done right the first time. I'm going to order my genuine Toyota OEM parts as soon as I'm done typing this..
Love this.
I subscribed.
@@FlorentinoRebuildingCo.5644 that is freaking radical dude! Thanks so much for taking the time to comment and we are so stoked that our videos are helping you save money and take on your own repairs.
- Sean 😎🤙🏼
This guy makes it looks simple! Tim is the man 👌
Thanks for the kind words.. It really isn't a hard job provided you have the right tools. Happy Wrenching!
Great video, very clear instruction and great stabilize, camera angles.
Thanks for compliment. We appreciate it!
Timmy
We were chatting on the Tundra brake video comment section. I was at Lowe's and spotted a Kobalt 3/8" flex head ratchet and it looked promising. I was able to remove both mounts with relative ease! However, opposite of your instructions, the ratchet handle for me was able to rotate by cranking it upward. I was able to do the ratcheting with the handle passing between the exhaust manifolds and the engine bay inner fender! Once they were loose I switched back to the 1/4" drive ratchet from below as you were successful. On the passenger side the ratchet handle rubs the manifold shield pretty snug but press on. The drivers side becomes much easier by disconnecting the alternator wires/abs wire/various vac hoses or at least disconnect their brackets. I've went ahead and destroyed my new mounts by cutting off the threaded portion and put a 1/2" bolt/washer/nut through the entire thing. I came across a blog mentioning this mod allows the engine to settle/press on the mounts but it will not be able to "pull" on them. Allowing for compression and better transfer of engine rotational force! We shall see : )
Thanks for your help and the encouragement
Good job getting it done. Interesting modification to the mounts. You're very welcome and Happy Wrenching!
Hi Tim, how do you know if you need a new transmission isolator?
If the rubber is pulling away from the metal it's adhered to. Or, you see a major tear in the rubber allowing for abnormal movement.
Great video Tim , I learned my lesson today,
Always buy oem or you will do it twice 🤣I bought an aftermarket which looked identical once I removed the old one the new wouldn’t align!
Yep, OEM is the safe way to go. I have used aftermarket parts, mainly aftermarket suspension products and bushings but I stick with OEM for most other things.
Once again, a spot on video. Thanks for taking the time to make it.
Thanks and you're very welcome.
Did it help help with the clunk?
No, it didn't. I believe the problem is the driveshaft slip yoke binding on the main driveshaft.
Thanks!
You're very welcome Lidia. We appreciate the Super Thanks!
when i lowered the transmisson i couldnt get the 4 nuts back on the holes
The whole drivetrain is suspended with mounts. The engine mounts must have had enough give to throw off the bolt alignment for the trans mount. Were you doing this on level ground or at a slant? It's better not to have gravity working against you. You'll have to get in there with some large pry bars and shift the transmission in the direction it needs to go for the bolt holes to line up. And I just remembered, you could have bolted the trans mount on backwards. Did you try flipping it?
Dang those are some of the most difficult bolts to get to (engine mounts)!! 6 hours later😂 i will share some info that applies to lifted vehicles . If your truck/4runner is lifted or sitting on 33 inch or bigger tires you will run into some problems- i had to special order some taller jack stands as my frame sits at about 24 inches off the ground . Also A high lift jack with wheel lift mate to get the truck into the air. Unless you have some special jack that goes above 24 inches (most dont) . Also unless u have a special jack you will need to implement the engine hoist as the regular heavy duty jack didnt lift the engine high enough to get new mounts in. Thanks Timmy for the video , youre the man!
Sounds like you had quite the experience with this, but the good thing is you got it done. You're very welcome and good job!
Tim thanks for the vid it helped out a lot. I have a 97 yota taco reg cab 4x4 auto 3rz engine, 4 speed tranny (A3040F) when I was changing the transmount I noticed previous owner put the bottom white part more towards the rear and I remember in your video you say to face it to the engine, well I did that and after snugging up the bolts and getting ready to put the crossmember I saw it was impossible to put the crossmember it wouldnt line up. So I reversed it with the white point pointing towards the rear like the previous owner had it and it fit like a glove…idk why mines was like that, just thought I let anyone know. Also for the reg cab on mine it was hard to find the part number as its discontinued but it overceeds another part number that even the toyota guys behind the counter cant see 12371-35090 just wanted to say thank you Tim your videos are appreciated and honestly ther was a time I wouldnt even change my own oil but thanks to you I feel like a toyota tech lol
You're very welcome and thanks for sharing your experience with the trans mount. Great to hear our videos are inspiriting you to turn wrenches on your Tacoma. Happy Wrenching!
Did this work help with your original complaint? Or was the whole job unnecessary? I ask because I have noticed the same issue with my rear selector.
It didn't help with the rear clunk. The clunk is coming from the slip yoke binding on the main driveshaft.
@@TimmyTheToolman how about the play in in the transmission shifter you described? Any improvement?
@@elliiothart18 I can't remember. That was a long time ago. The mounts allow for some movement, because that's what they were designed to do. As long as the rubber isn't cracked, ripped or separated from the metal, the mount is still good.
Will that be the cause of my shaft seal going bad after a few thousand miles?
What shaft seal are you talking about?
@@TimmyTheToolman where the driveshaft joints with the manual transmission.
@@kevinramos833 do you not have a transfer case in between?
I just wanna drop a comment and say thanks again! I needed some info on what exactly I needed to buy and almost bought that metal piece that goes between the rubber mount and engine. Thanks for all the hard work you do with these videos!
You're very welcome and glad our video helped you out. Thanks for taking the time to comment. Happy Wrenching!
thank you and the cameraman.... u are really great Jop what you don
Did it help to reduce the movement when you shift from P to R and from R to D? I also found that my 4Runner also seems to have excessive movement (more than what I expect) when shifting from P to R and from R to D.
I did the job thinking it might be the cause of a rear end clunk I had. I never had any issues when shifting. It didn't correct the rear end clunk. The clunk I am experiencing is an issue with the driveshaft slip yoke. But, worn out engine and transmission mounts could be the cause of your problem. It's worth a shot to replace them.
@@TimmyTheToolman Timmy, any chance you caught the culprit for the rear end clunk?
@@saltysf It's got to be the driveshaft slip yoke binding and then becoming unbound. The only time I've been able to get rid of the rear end clunk is right after manually greasing the slip yoke splines, but in my case, it doesn't last too long. For some, the clunk stays away for a lot of miles.
The nuts that hold the cross member to the frame may be pinch to lock (not sure if this is the correct term) which, may explain why they were so hard to get off. A pinch to lock nut is slightly deformed (a little oblong in the center) and lock better than nylon lock nuts. This is especially true for bigger nuts and nuts that are frequently removed and reused. I use them whenever I can and love them even though they take considerably more effort to install and remove. When you get done you know the nuts will not back out. Especially useful for the sway bar brackets and end links.
We agree, some type of nut that locks not the bolt gives more piece of mind but you should always inspect your vehicle especially before & after trips on the trails as things can get jolted around & attempt to loosen up.
Whats the name of the two bushings next to the cam adjuster i need to get those two bushings (look in the video 38:11)
thank you and await your favorable response.
Those are the Differential Support Arm Bushings. Toyota doesn't sell them separately. They make you buy the whole arm. But, the Durobumps company makes replacement bushings for that application. We show how to replace them in this video: ua-cam.com/video/KpkzuDFvSW0/v-deo.html
transmission mount same part # for manual and auto? having trouble finding that number on toyota's part page for my 1998 manual transmission.
I don't know if they are the same part number. You might have to visit your local dealer.
Great video, 2004 Tacoma owner here:)
racerxnk Glad you like it.
Hi Timmy, did you ever find out what was actually causing that movement in the trans when coming to a stop or accelerating? I have that issue too.
It's got to be the rear slip yoke binding. When I've taken the rear slip yoke off the driveshaft and greased it really well, the clunk goes away for a little bit but eventually comes back. I've learned to live with it for now. Eventually, I'm just going to buy an aftermarket driveshaft from somewhere, most likely from Tom Woods.
@@TimmyTheToolman Did you ever get a new driveshaft? Cus I've taken off my rear & driven in FWD but still had the clunk. Curious if that fixed it...
@@mmmansuy I never got a replacement rear driveshaft. I still have the rear end clunk. I was thinking I'd eventually get a replacement driveshaft from Tom Woods.
@@TimmyTheToolman shucks! nobody seems able to figure this thing out. did you remove your rear driveshaft & drive in 4wd? cus when I did I still had the clunk which should basically eliminate the rear shaft.
@@mmmansuy I never removed the rear driveshaft and drove in 4wd but I did notice the clunk would go away for a while after a good greasing of the slip yoke. I'm convinced it's a driveshaft issue.
Thanks for the video Timmy. Your page has saved the day more than once. The problem I’m having with my motor mounts is the 14mm holes don’t line up after taking the jack out. I’ve got the 17mm bolt in and the nut on, but it looks as if I need to pull my motor forward a good inch or so. Any tips for anyone else like me having problems lining the mount with the frame?
Hey Collin, good to hear our videos are helping you out. In regards to the motor mount not lining up, sometimes the drivetrain shifts a bit on you. You'll have to manipulate the motor to get it to line up and you can usually find a purchase with a large pry bar to force it over in the direction you need it to go. Did you purchase OEM motor mounts?
I will try to shimmy it forward. I did not buy OEM.. I bought the beck n arnleys off rock auto
@@collinclark5573 Did you do a close examination of the mount you bought compared to the OEM one you removed. I've seen problems with aftermarket mounts and that's maybe the issue you're experiencing.
Thanks for sharing the information.
I have a 2wd tacoma 2003 3.4 prerunner and the issue I've been having is the vibration going uphill at around 5 to 15 uphill. I replaced the drive shaft center bearing but it still vibrating. Could thus be the tranny and motor mounts?
Thanks for the help.
Have you checked the u-joints on the driveshaft? When was the last time you greased the zerk fittings?
@TimmyTheToolman ooops forgot to mention that I did greased the joints and are in good shape , no play or anything.
@@Elyyfz450 It could possibly be the mounts. Have you checked your automatic transmission fluid level?
@TimmyTheToolman yes, all is good. The only things I haven't replaced are the motor and transmission mounts. I really hope is not the transmission.
Thanks again for everything. I really appreciate it.
@@Elyyfz450 No problem. I hope you figure it out.
Good video!
I think you can cut down on the amount of times you repeat yourself though or exit them out. We can rewind if we miss something.
Glad you like the video. I'll take note of your constructive criticism. Thanks for taking the time to comment.
@@TimmyTheToolman No way Timmy! You do your thang brother. I'm here to watch and learn, watch and learn. When I think I got it, I watch again.
I just did this on my 00 Tacoma 2.7, 2wd. My transmission mount needed replacement. I didn’t need to remove the cross member. But the front two motor mounts didn’t need to be replaced, be sure to check for movement of the engine before you replace the engine mounts. I used the thin flex head double ended rachet from harbor freight, worked great. When working on the front two motor mounts, remove the air intake hose to give the engine more room to move vertically. Finally, take your driveshaft to a driveline shop when finished to balance it. This will keep the trans mount from wearing out again and reduce vibrations in your driveline. Very good rundown on replacing these mounts, thank you!
Tom how you replace trans mount without removing crossmember
Hi! Can you give me the oem part number from 11:00 ? (Bolts) Thanks
90119-08B75
www.paypal.com/paypalme/timmythetoolman?locale.x=en_US
👌🏼
What about if you have a manual?
Your trans mount might be different, but I'm not certain. I've never replaced a trans mount for a manual transmission model. When you order the parts, make sure you are selecting the manual transmission model option.
@@TimmyTheToolman part # listed for the transmission mount is #12371 - 62120 ... that would be the best way to tell if they are different on the parts diagram
Hey man I need the torque specs for a 00 tundra transmission mount 4 that go into the trans and 4 into the frame I can't find specs anywhere.
I don't have a manual for your rig There is a way to get the information you need though. Toyota has a website called Tech Info. You can buy a 2-day membership for $20 and download all the content you want. techinfo.toyota.com/techInfoPortal/appmanager/t3/ti?_nfpb=true&_pageLabel=ti_home_page&contextType=external&username=string&password=secure_string&challenge_url=techinfo.toyota.com/techInfoPortal/login/techinfo&request_id=-5518364760491963150&authn_try_count=0&locale=en_US&resource_url=https%3A%2F%2Ftechinfo.toyota.com%2F
@@TimmyTheToolman awesome thank you so much. Love the videos
How much easier are the motor mounts if say the front diff was already removed for other reasons? I have to pull it anyway, might as well do it now if it will make the motor mount job easier. Thanks, super helpful videos man.
Actually, releasing the driver side motor mount and jacking up the engine makes getting the front differential out much easier. Check out our video for the front differential replacement and read the comment we pinned that describes the steps to get the differential out much easier. So, the steps I'd do are:
1) Jack up under oil pan with light pressure.
2) Remove bolts that hold the driver side motor mount to the frame
3) Jack up motor a couple inches and place some spacer block or wedge between the frame and mount to maintain the height you just gained and get the jack out of your way.
4) Remove the rubber vacuum tubes and breather hoses from the metal vacuum and breather lines. Then release the metal lines from the top of the differential so you can manipulate them out of the way of the power steering lines as you remove the differential
5) Disconnect the electrical connection to the front diff actuator
6) Disconnect the front and rear diff mounts and get the differential out.
7) Next jack up the motor up a bit again and get the wedge out of your way.
8) Remove the driver side motor mount from the engine, and get the new one in.
9) Remove and replace the passenger side motor mount
10) Lower the engine down and get the passenger side motor mount attached to the passenger side frame
11) Jack the motor back up and get the wedge put back between the driver side frame and engine mount.
12) Get your front differential back in and all bolted up
13) Finally jack up engine, remove wedge or block and get the driver side motor mount bolted to the frame and you're all done.
How's that for a response?
Bro I lost my shit when he said more cushion for the pushin 🤣🤣🤣
Glad you appreciate the humor Julio.
Very helpful! Would it make sense to start supporting at the oil pan before loosening the front mount attachments to the frame? It seems like I'd be asking for things to slip out of place if the jack isn't holding the engine.
The engine mounts can't slip just by removing the bolts. There's tabs that the mounts settle against. The bolts don't hold up the engine. They just keep the mount in place on their mounting brackets.
What ever ended up fixing that rear end clunk on acceleration that you mentioned in the beginning? I’m having the same issue
Never fixed it. It's clear to me it's a problem with the rear driveshaft slip yoke binding while coming to a stop and then unbinding. Greasing the slip yoke would work for a while but then the clunk would come back. I think the only way to fix it is to replace the driveshaft.
14:34
That white bushing on my car is 1 inch from the metal above...1-10 how bad is that?
I'm not sure I understand your question.
Great info. Did it fix your driveline clunk? I have a violent clunk pressing and letting off the gas in 4hi.
Jeff Cannon Hey Jeff, no it didn't get rid of it but it improved a little. I think mine is mostly due to the slip yoke binding on the rear driveshaft. Lubricating the yoke better by pulling the yoke off the main driveshaft has helped the most but I think the splines have received excessive wear due to being insufficiently lubricated for most of it's life. The zerk fitting does a horrible job of greasing the splines. All the grease ends up on the bottom of the yoke and hardly any grease gets onto the splines where it's needed. It's my belief that the splines have some type of special coating to allow them to slide easier because I've seen different shades of color on the splines showing something wore off.
So, I guess I'll live with the clunk for now. Maybe I'll buy an aftermarket driveshaft at some point from a company like Tom Woods. The double card joint is pretty much not serviceable if a ujoint goes bad so many decide to go aftermarket when that happens.
How long did the job take??
Hard to give an estimate because we're filming. If I had to guess, you need 2-3 hours for this job.
@@TimmyTheToolman thanks for the fast response SIR 👍
@@elcincopatasramirez5497 No problem. Good luck with the job.
Timm your video's are super helpful for maintaining my 3rd gen thanks. The mount is different on the RWD Limited and is not directly below the cross member, this became an issue when i lowered the transmission from my jack and the bolts had shifted 1/2 an inch and i'm unsure on how to get it back where i should and no one makes as helpful videos as you if you have any advice i'm open to it. I appreciate what you do!
Sounds like you need to use some persuasion with a pry bar. If the mount is bolted up properly to the transmission and the cross member is where it should be too, it's just a matter of flexing the mount so the mount holes lines up properly with the cross member holes. I hope that makes sense.
It does thanks for the reply the original mount is back installed with new hardware since the rubber was in decent shape. I just had to learn a classic lesson of avoiding aftermarket parts.
@@Prodagyxx Ah, the aftermarket part was the issue. Yep, OEM for the most part is the way to go.
Did replacing them solve any type of vibration? I'm getting a vibration in my floorboard when accelerating or constant throttle. Checked using your method and saw some vertical movement of the engine.
No, it didn't solve any vibration for me. If you have a 4wd model, it might be an issue with your driver side front differential needle bearing that the CV axle rides on. Check out this video: ua-cam.com/video/sXIfHArtvF8/v-deo.html
@@TimmyTheToolman actually replaced the needle bearing with the ECGS kit a few weeks ago. When I jack up the front end there is no play in the wheel bearings (12 and 6 o'clock check) and no grinding noises or movement laterally in CV shaft where it goes into the hub and diff. I found the t4r forum thread where you said to check by putting it in gear, foot on brake, and giving it throttle. Definitely see some play up and down in the engine. When I put my foot on the rock slider I can definitely feel a lot of vibration when giving it throttle. Both in drive and neutral. I replaced my trans mount a few months ago because of vibration and the rubber being worn out. Starting to think the engine mounts are going bad since they're 23 years old (have a 99 4wd sr5). I feel a bad vibration in the driver's floorboard when accelerating. Feel it most when going up a hill or gaining speed. Thinking I will replace the mounts with some OEM ones. May solve the issue and if it doesn't it's probably going to be needed to be done eventually. The depressing life of battling my 4Runners issues.
@@bwame OK, good luck with the engine mount swap. Remember, flex head ratchets with 120 engagement points are your friend.
You do awesome demos dude. Checked mine on my 2001, and they are still good. Thought I was going to have to take a drive over to Camelback Toyota but nah.
Thanks for the compliment. We appreciate it.
Hola, puedes decirme si son iguales las 2 bases de los soportes del motor 20 R de un pickup toyota 79? Gracias. Hi, can you tell me if the 2 bases of the 20 R engine mounts of a toyota 79 pickup are the same? Thank you.
Ernesto Lugo - No estamos seguros si son iguales. Tendrás que tirar de ellos y comparar.
@@TimmyTheToolman Muchas gracias.
What are the part numbers for the 3rd crossmember bolts and nuts that hold it to the frame of the vehicle as well as the four bolts that tie the trans mount to the 3rd crossmember. I want to replace mine and can’t find the part numbers anywhere.
We don't have those part numbers. A local Toyota Dealer parts department will be your best bet. Or, you could just go to a hardware store and match them up.
@@TimmyTheToolman thank your sir I appreciate it. And also I love the videos you have put out and how detailed they are. I just bought a 98 4runner and have been watching your videos non stop for jobs that I need to complete and get done. So thankful to have such great references to go off of
@@justaschwinginx2339 You're very welcome. Glad you appreciate the videos we make. Good luck with your 4runner. Have fun with it.
Great job , and very informative , 2003 Tundra owner .
We're glad you like our video Harold. Thanks for taking the time to comment.
Hey Tim, I was looking at my mount on a 1999 prerunner and the nut on top of the center rubber bushing wasn't even close to the rubber. I can't find any torque on that nut or if its supposed to be snug or totally loose. Do you know if its supposed to be torqued ,snug or loose>Thanks Dave
echo8287 are you talking about the trans mount or the engine mount when you say bushing?
The top bolt on the transmission mount. I just got the new Toyota mount(12371-62130) and there is less than 1/8" between the top bolt with the big metal washer and the rubber bushing. On my truck the thing must have loosened up because there is 3/4" between the washer and the bolt. I was just wondering if it's supposed to be tight, snug or to leave the less than 1/8" play in the new mount. Mine might have had No damping effect on tranny movement, Thanks Dave @@TimmyTheToolman
echo8287 it should be tight
Did it fix your clunking sound? That's my problem too. Debating on whether I should change mine out. I'm glad I got a Tundra because the Tacoma is tight
It did not fix the issue. I believe my clunk is coming from the driveshaft slip yoke binding. One day I'm just going to replace the damn thing.
What if my whole engine, transmission, and exhaust moves when I push up on my transmission. It looks like the body mounts where the rubber bushing is not setting up against the metal there’s like a gap in betweeen, I don’t think it’s right and I’d like your help if I could send a video or something and get your advice
They're suppose to move together because they're bolted together. If the rubber is pulling away from the metal, replace the mount.
Hi Timmy, is there a break in period for engine mounts? I have recently replaced my engine mounts and there is now terrible vibration when the engine is at idle, throughout the pickup. However, when i am driving it seems as if its smoother than before?
That's interesting Matt. I don't think there's a break-in period. The rubber is already pretty pliable with these rubber mounts, at least with the OEM Toyota ones I purchased for this job. Did you buy OEM mounts? Now, for sure if you switched to something like polyurethane mounts, they can cause a ton of vibration because they don't give as much and will transfer engine vibrations to the frame. I know this because my 85 Toyota 4runner has Trail Gear poly mounts. They are strong and won't break under a lot of torque when 4wheeling but they suck when it comes to dampening the engine vibrations.
Common sense would say the mounts are causing the new vibration because the problem started right after the swap, but I don't think OEM rubber mounts should do this. If you used aftermarket mounts, then I think that's the culprit. I would go back to using OEM mounts.
Hi Tim, thanks for the video.
My 4R has a low/med-pitch rumble and very slight vibration through shifter only during acceleration in gear when I give gas.
Is this normal?
Because the engine revs smooth with no rumble souund when not in gear.
Car accelerates fine. No other vibration.
It's that rumble only when I give it gas in gear.
It's a 1996 manual, 142k miles.
I changed all fluids including diff, trans, t-case, lubed joints, plugs and wires.
Ujoints have no play.
That rumble occurs at all speeds as soon as car starts moving as long as it's in gear and giving gas.
Could it be the trans mount?
Hard to say if it's a bad mount. Sounds more like a driveshaft issue to me. Have you checked for any play in the rear output shaft of the transfer case? It might be something you'd want to get up on a lift and put the vehicle in gear to see and hear what you can to narrow down the source.
@@TimmyTheToolman Thanks for your quick reply, Tim!
Will check.
@@digitalkov Ok, good luck.
Hey Toolman can you show me one for a 2003 Sequoia
Well, there's a chance we might do this for someone at some point but I'd say you probably shouldn't wait for us. This video gives you an idea how to accomplish it so you should be able to figure it out. You just need to make sure you support the transmission and transfer case properly while removing the cross member and replacing the trans mount. Same goes for the engine mounts. Make sure you have the engine properly supported so it's safe to unbolt the motor mounts. Having 120 click point flex head ratchets and having flex head box end wrenches makes these types of jobs much easier because access to turn wrenches is limited.
Timmy on a 96 4runner 2wd does the pins have to go into the motor side. We bought 2 mounts from the local napa & they wouldn't line up with the holes in the mounts. We cut one of them to make it work. Motor jumps more now then it did before. Thanks any help would be greatly appreciated.
Aftermarket mounts can be problematic as you've found out. You might just have to buy OEM mounts to get it right.
did the noise and movement improve after the swap?
No, it didn't. What I suspected originally is still what I think the issue is. It's the driveshaft slip yoke binding and unbinding.
general question: if U joints are confirmed good, carrier replaced and slip yoke serviced and you get a dull driveline clunk (can hear and feel) when abruptly letting off the gas at moderate - highway speed, does that strongly point to a compromised mount?
Not sure if that's a bad mount causing the clunk. There's more torque on the driveline components when you're on the gas pedal and then less when you let off so something is torquing and then relaxing. It could possibly be a mount. I think it might be from the rear end. Possibly excessive backlash between the ring and pinion gears. To rule out the trans mount, get a person to help you and put them in the driver seat while you're under the rig. With their foot on the brake, have the shift back and forth into reverse and drive while you're watching the trans mount. If the mount is bad, you'll see gross movement.
@@TimmyTheToolman thanks for the reply and input! i think i'm just gonna go ahead and replace it and see, since the driveline is otherwise running smoothly and that rubber gets hard and cracks over time
@@johnschaefer4129 Ok, let me know how it turns out. Good luck!
Did you replace your trans mount? My 4runner just started having the exact same symptoms you described
@@oscaramador9651 not yet, i keep getting distracted. i have the mount and will get to it soon and let you know!
Timmy ,I have a problem ,I have a 2wd and it bumps /jerks ,like a strong rock detween D and R ,also a light jerk between first second and third gear on low rev
It could be a trans mount issue but maybe it's a problem with your transmission.
@@TimmyTheToolman thanks 👍👍👍
@@tahahadada1936 You're welcome.
Do you think by using a boxed end crows foot on a torque wrench that you could torque the nuts and bolts to spec or would that probably not work? Thank you very much for the videos. I can't tell you how much they help a DIY'er do all the things that you do. And if you have a 2000 4Runner with 200,000 miles like I do you'll likely be doing almost all of the things you cover at some point. Again thank you very much.
Hey Mark, it may work with a crows foot for the two bolts and nuts that hold the engine mounts to the frame. For that center nut that holds the mount to the engine, I don't think it's possible. Glad you like our videos. You're very welcome and Happy Wrenching!
WOW have prices skyrocketed since you did this video! I just paid $168 for the motor mounts and transmission mounts.
@@Albiemanmike Yeah, inflation isn't great.
buen video saludos . tengo una prado 2001 caja automatica y al aplicar R y aveces D PEGA UN GOLPE que puede ser ?
It's hard to diagnose via the internet. It could be a bad transmission mount or maybe it's an issue with the transmission itself. Have someone in the driver's seat switch the gears from drive to reverse over and over again while you are under the vehicle trying to detect where the movement and noise is coming from. Just chose someone you trust that isn't going to run over you. Good luck!
@@TimmyTheToolman gracias por la respuesta , realice eso verifique soportes , y esta todo bien , viene como de la parte del cardan delantero , en ese pedazo de las junta homocinetica. . mi pregunta es PUEDE UN JUNTA HOMOCINETICA CAUSAR ESE GOLPE ? O LA TRICETA DEL MISMO ? GRCIAS
Did you feel a difference at all with the new transmission mount? You said you had a clunk. What ended up making that sound? Same issue on my 95 Tacoma with the 5vzfe
@Miles-wy1zr I didn't feel a difference. The clunk is coming from the driveshaft slip yoke becoming unbound from the main driveshaft.
Would this be the same process for a 1986 Toyota pick up?
Not sure, but my guess it would be very similar.
@@TimmyTheToolman watching a few other videos of Toyota trucks/suv from many years apart, they seem relatively about the same. Gonna crawl under the truck today and see what I’m looking at. Thanks for the reply and video upload!
@@caelanwilliamson4284 I've seen engine and transmission mounts on many Toyota and they were all very similar. I just don't want to steer anyone wrong and tell them the process would be identical when I don't know for sure. Good luck with the job.
Hi Timmy, did that fix your rear end clunk and wobble in the AT shifter? Mine does the same thing on a 3rd gen '02 I just picked up...
No, it didn't fix the rear end clunk. The only thing I've found that lessens the clunk is removing the slip yoke and greasing it really good. At first I would be clunk-free for almost 10,000 miles but now it only lasts a few hundred. I think my driveshaft slip yoke was under-lubricated for most of it's life and it just needs to be replaced now. There's a decent amount of play in the splines and I think that increases the ability for it to bind. I might pick one up a local shop that makes custom driveshafts. I have a couple videos for the slip yoke binding fix so check them out. ua-cam.com/video/oKX5UeE2Txs/v-deo.html ua-cam.com/video/Jyltxe2nPEg/v-deo.html It has fixed other people's clunks so it's worth a try.
The brand new engine and trans mounts still allow for a fair amount of movement in the drivetrain so you'll still see your shifter moving even after installing new mounts.
@@TimmyTheToolman I had a rear end clunk and noticed it at every stop light and sometimes in reverse. I noticed that it was the u bolts that hold the rear axle and the rear leafs. they were loose and tightened them to spec and fixed the problem. this happened on my 98 tacoma. checking and torquing your u bolts its something worth checking. good luck and hope that fixes your issue.
Francisco Valle this is definitely worth checking on vehicles with leaf springs. 4runners don’t have leaf springs but my 1st gen does and I noticed they were loose when I bought it. Tightened it up and things are happy again.
Cheers for linking those tools, how many kms or miles did it have on it at the time?
The mileage was around 150-160k but if you wheel your rig you should consider replacing your lower ball joints every 50-60k miles or maybe sooner. We now link all the tools we use on jobs so people can get the same tools or buy something similar if they need them.
How tight is the nylon nut that is in the center of the transmission mount supposed be torqued to?
Don't know. I never touched it. That is not something you have to mess with. That nylon nut fits into the cross member but isn't connected to anything.
@@TimmyTheToolman I only ask because I replaced mine a few months back and today I discovered it off and rolling around in the cross member. I took it all apart and this time I tightened it down. Hopefully I didn’t over tighten.
@@marinomarino9802 Gotcha. I guess tight enough to where it won't fall off again. It obviously wasn't properly tightened from the factory.
Unfortunately, I had to pay someone to replace my mounts. Expensive as hell. But, what I wanted to ask is what would you use if you did not have a transmission jack. Can you use a regular jack?...thks..jc
A regular jack could work, but if you were going to jack up under the transmission pan, you'd have to place a board on the jack to disperse the load so the trans pan wouldn't get damaged from concentrating the load on the small patch offered with a standard floor jack.
@@TimmyTheToolman thanks timmy..jc
@@Samson-EC You're welcome.
After 4 yrs, have you solved the clunk issue? I have a 2004 tacoma v6 4wd and when I some to a stop, I feel a clunk behind me like it is from the rear. I've researched and some people said it is axle wrap, but when I come to a stop, I shift to neutral and it doesn't clunk. Some people said it is the transmission mount or the drive shaft center support. I'm out of town and haven't looked at my mount or support yet.
Another guy said he changed all his vent lines and it went away. He assumed it was some vent line to the transmission. Do you think the drive shaft support or the vent lines could be causing the clunk?
I do not think the vent line on the transmission could cause this. That just lets out pressure out as the trans heats up. I do think severely worn mounts could cause it but it didn't fix my issue.
I think it's the slip yoke binding. When you are coming to a stop, the suspension compresses and the slip yoke slides into the main propeller shaft. If the slip yoke and propeller shaft are sliding well with each other, the yoke will release smoothly as you coast to a stop. If the yoke is not sliding well with the propeller shaft, it sort of binds. When the forward force from the braking eases up, the slip yoke doesn't release gently but rather finally releases in one big clunk of a movement.
The zerk fitting for the slip yoke does not effectively lubricate the splines. It's a crappy design. Most of the grease just sits in the pocket at the end of the shaft. You really have to over-grease the slip yoke to get grease to push up into splines. My 2000 4runner still has the problem. I got rid of it for short periods of time by manually greasing the splines. Give it a try and let me me know if it helped you. I have two videos for it. What I'm planning on doing is just replacing the driveshaft with one from Tom Woods when the problem gets too annoying to ignore. So far, I've been fine living with the rear end clunk.
ua-cam.com/video/oKX5UeE2Txs/v-deo.html
ua-cam.com/video/Jyltxe2nPEg/v-deo.html
Great video you cover every small details good job mate
That's our style. We try to be as detailed and comprehensive as possible so we give the viewer the best chance at success with the job. This makes our videos longer than most UA-cam automotive videos but we figure people will watch what they need to see and skip over areas they don't need instruction on. We'd rather give people more information than not enough. Glad you like the video and thanks for taking the time to comment. Happy Wrenching!
reports on a popular tacoma forum says that a new pair of engine insulators will resolve a shake in the 5sp MT stick at the 60mph equivalent 2200 RPM range. this noticeable shaking in the shifter stick all started on my rig after the rebuilt R150F from Yota1 was installed. So i do not have a clue what is going on here with my rig!!. Transmission wonky? engine isolators wonky? something else going on that needs to be addressed??
Have you checked your wheel balancing.
those motor mounts now have an MSRP of 90$ each in Nov-2o23... transmission mount for the MT is not available 8^( .... what would you suggest for the trans mount? are there aftermarket available that are of near-like quality
I don't know if there are aftermarket trans mounts that are of good quality, but, it that's all you can get, that's all you can get. I'm sure they'll work fine but might not last as long.
Very nice video. I've got a Tundra, but this is very helpful. Thank you.
Thanks Paul. Glad you found the video helpful.
@@TimmyTheToolman Do you have any suggestions as to what brand. I'm having a real difficult time finding motor mounts. All I see are DEA, Anchor, and Beck Arnley, non of which seem to have good things said about them. Maybe a call to the local Toyota dealer is in order.
@@paulbreaux909 Try using Partsouq.com to look up the part numbers and then you can search the part numbers for the lowest price. I suggest only using Toyota OEM mounts.
Whats the purpose of the nyon plug? Mines is broken off.
I'm not 100% sure but that nylon plug recesses into the cross member and most likely helps support the mount so not all the force is being applied to those very small bolts that attach the mount to the cross member.
Timmah! Love your videos. I've used them as a reference to do lots of work on my 1st gen Tacoma. Like you, I replaced my transmission mount a while back hoping that it would alleviate some of the drive line clunk & transmission movement I was experiencing. Unfortunately, It didn't seem to help that much. I just think axel wrap & drive line movement is something that Tacoma & 4runners owners have to deal with. Seems to be endemic with the 2 piece drive shaft design.
twack19 Watch our Slip Yoke Binding Fix video. It's most likely your slip yoke binding. My clunk improved after lubricating the slip yoke better but the problem is still there. Some people outright fix the problem by getting it properly lubricated so it's worth a shot for you.
twack19 I was thinking there was a chance you could raise the transmission high enough to get the mount out but since I had experience removing the cross member when we replaced Sean's transmission, I knew it was a pretty easy thing to get out of the way. Thanks for taking the time to comment and share this info.
What is axle wrap? Anyone know?
Thank you.
Hey man thanks for the video! I am hoping your expertise and experience can help. I have a 1995 2.7 4x4 with the auto trans that I want to do the same job on. I had no prob sourcing the engine mounts but for the love of everything holy I cannot find the correct transmission mount. Part number oem is 12371-35090 but it has been discontinued and no supersession! Looked EVERYWHERE and nothing. I tried putting in a 12371-0c030 but compared to oem side by side it is just a bit more taller (maybe 1/8” taller) however it bolts on.. and the holes line up. Only problem is the crossmember wont go back in because that mount is just a tad taller and I dont want to jack tranny up too much, since it might mess with its alignment?! Any help is appreciated..
Have you tried going with an aftermarket trans mount? I know it's not ideal but I bet you could try getting one from an auto parts store.
@@TimmyTheToolman Nothing available either. Whatever they have it looks nothing like it and will not fit. Haha I think the mounts for the 1995 and 1996 4x4 auto trans 2.7 fell through the cracks or into a parts blackhole! If you hear of anyone with the same issue or possibly having one laying around it would be so awesome!! I am sure I am not the only one!
Excellent detailed account given in this video . Thanks for the effort - very helpful . Thanks
We're glad you like the video Ray and you're very welcome. Thanks for taking the time to comment.
Another excellent video! Just wondering how many miles was on the Toyota Tacoma when you replaced the motor and transmission mount? Thanks
Thanks for watching Rick. I had approximately 162,*** miles on my 4Runner when I replaced the transmission mount & engine mounts.
After checking my transmission mount I can't get a pry bar in to test it because both pieces of metal are actually touching. Guess I'll get that ordered
Sounds like your mount rubber insulators totally disintegrated. Good luck with the replacement.
Timmy, did this fix your rear end thunk? I've got the thunk on hard stops and at my next oil change will lube the slip yoke up and see where that gets me.
Thanks for the vids. Keep them coming!!
Andrew, no it didn't get rid of it but it improved a little. I think mine is mostly due to the slip yoke binding on the rear driveshaft. Lubricating the yoke better by pulling the yoke off the main driveshaft has helped the most but I think the splines have received excessive wear due to being insufficiently lubricated for most of it's life. The zerk fitting does a horrible job of greasing the splines. All the grease ends up on the bottom of the yoke and hardly any grease gets onto the splines where it's needed. It's my belief that the splines have some type of special coating to allow them to slide easier because I've seen different shades of color on the splines showing something wore off.
So, I guess I'll live with the clunk for now. Maybe I'll buy an aftermarket driveshaft at some point from a company like Tom Woods. The double card joint is pretty much not serviceable if a ujoint goes bad so many decide to go aftermarket when that happens.
Hello timmy! One question what would happen if I did not remove the 4 bolts from the transmission mount the ones attached to the cross member and started to lift the engine in order to replace the 2 engine mounts????
You would just put a little strain on them. The mounts are meant to give quite a bit with the movement of the drivetrain so I doubt you did any damage.
I have a 1st gen tundra that has vibrations when I put it in gear and idle but goes away if I put it in N or park. No vibrations when I’m driving. I can also hear and feel thud if I brake hard. Can this be my transmission mount? Can’t find any info about it on 1st gen tundras so I assume it’s not common so idk?
Yes, it could definitely be the trans mount. Have someone that you trust not to run you over get in the vehicle while you're under the rig and watch what the drivetrain does when you have them switch the transmission back and forth from Park to Drive and Park to Reverse. There's a good chance the rubber of the trans mount has become separated from the metal.
@@TimmyTheToolman thank you I would have someone do that while I get under. I would ask the wife but she’ll probably run me over.
So it has nothing to do with my mounts. I realized it was my rpms that would drop to around 5-600 when I put it in gear and go back to 800-900 when I put it in P and N. Guess I got to find out why my Rpms are so low.
@@deegaw11 Ok, good luck figuring it out.
How much vibration would be transmitted to the cabin area?
With intact motor and transmission mounts, very little vibration is transferred to the cabin area. I now have an 85 4runner with aftermarket engine and transmission mounts that's use polyurethane rather than rubber. The mounts are strong but they transfer a ton of noise and vibration to the cabin area. With OEM rubber mounts, even if one was broken, I don't think much transference of vibration would occur. You might get some type of clunk from the broken mount but probably not a vibration.
@@TimmyTheToolman my wife has a 95 4runner 3.0L 4x4 automatic. It has a terrible roaring noise while going down the road at almost all speeds. The roar can't be heard outside the vehicle only while inside. Do you have any suggestions on what I should look at other than the wheel bearings that I have already replaced? Thanks so much!!
@@bradsmith5838 Take a look at the front differential driver side needle bearing that the CV axle rides on. Here's a video of what I'm talking about: ua-cam.com/video/sXIfHArtvF8/v-deo.html
Is it normal for the car to vibrate/shake after changing those mounts? It makes less noise but it just shakes a lot now. Does it have to "settle" over time?
No, it's not normal. Something isn't right.
How long did this take you
It's hard for us to estimate time because we're filming. If I had to put a time on it, I think 3-4 hours is about right if nothing really fights you.
Tim do you know if this mount, or any 3rd Gen mount, will work on a 2nd Gen (1995) R150f manual transmission?
I'm not sure if they are the same mount.
Cant get torque wrench in the huh? Good think you have a calibrated elbow.
Yep, the calibrated elbow works every time and doesn't require recalibration.
Hey brother this spec is also for a tundra 2006 v8 ? The transmission mount $ the cross member spec
I don't know what the specs are for a 2006 Tundra so I won't be able to answer this for you.
Timmy is there anyway i can find out that info ? Because i followed you’re way and changed everything and my tundra v8 4.7 2006 looks identical to this truck same everything.
Hey timmy my tundra gen 1 2006 v8 4.7 I usually do everything to it. Had to take it for a transmission flush at toyota dealership they told me my transmission mount and cross member is messed up and that i need to replace it. This video shows you doing that too is that correct? If it is you made it look easy man. 🤘🏻
Yes, you could use this video to help you with this. Did your rig take a hit while 4wheeling. If you have some local wrecking yards or PicknPulls you might be able to find a cross member at a big savings over new and then you can get yourself a new mount from Toyota. I'd try finding the mount from an online seller like Camelback Toyota. Local dealers will charge you a lot for a new cross member.
Actually i have no idea how it happened tbh my truck is A 2wd and never touch dirt this is my baby everything i do is oem just my presence exept brakes and lil petty stuff like that but yea man they wrote on the paperwork recommendation cross member and trans mount so i search that up and finally ran into your channel which was very freaking helpful and I subscribed you really taught me alot in this video and im going to check out the rest of them man. I love to learn and do stuff myself but thank you much brother for the time to respond and advice 🤘🏻🤘🏻🤘🏻 i own the xsp tundra 4 full door gen 1
@@nightmaremike1092 You had to hit something on the road at some point to cause the damage. How bad is the damage to the cross member? Maybe the damage isn't that bad. Dealerships and shops like to recommend repairs even when the situation is pretty minor. It's all about getting you back in there so they can make more money off you.
My mom has been using a shop for her mechanic needs for a long time and they seemed to be very honest until a recent experience she had with them. They told her she needed to replace her rear brakes and she had a seal leak at her CV axle to transmission connection. I inspected the brakes for her and they were fine. And, the leak they said she had was barely anything. There was a tiny wet spot under the seal. So, she didn't need either of these repairs. I told her for now on she needs to double check with me before she authorizes any repairs on her vehicle. I'll let them change the oil for her but probably nothing more.
Honestly they said there’s a crack on it monday im going to have time to get under and do the test like you did with a pry bar and see if there’s play and I’ll start from there and try to get a second opinion wish i can send a video or pics through you tube lol but im going to inspect it and give it that wiggle and find play. I know how they are it’s all about business now days 🤷♂️ my transmission feels good but lately when i shift it its kinda running just a bit ruff just did an oil change and transmission fluid change not to mention i got a leak only on my rear main seal which im going to have to handle ASAP its just pricey dealer charging 1000$ im not paying that lol im going to try to do it myself just got to drop tranny
@@nightmaremike1092 If there's a crack in the cross member, maybe a local welder could put a bead on it and fix it for next to nothing, maybe $20. And, unless the trans mount rubber is cracked really bad or has become separated from the metal it's sandwiched between, you could leave that alone.
My motor mounts are what I was going to work on next ! Almost 300 on my Tacoma ! Video came in perfect timing ! Thanks ! Great video ! Very Helpful !!
William Goble Hey William, you're welcome. Thanks for taking the time to comment.
where did u get that manual?
Ebay. Do a search for your year and there's a good chance somebody will be selling a set.
Thank you very much for your time and knowledge
You're very welcome.
Hey Tim and Sean! Do you think it would be possible to lift the transfer case & transmission off of the crossmember and replace the mount without actually removing the crossmember? About to do this on my truck and wondering if that would be doable.
Maybe. Depends on how high you can jack up the transmission before you hit the body. The cross member isn't hard to remove though.
This is true but it would definitely save some time if I didn't have to remove it and re-install it. I am going to try this route and let you know what I'm able to achieve.
Yeah of course. Go for it and let me know how it works out.
Hey Tim! Finally got around to doing the transmission mount. I was successful. The main reason I wanted to do it this way was because I have an aftermarket crossmember that's 3/8" thick, way heavier and requires more bolts to loosen. It took a little bit of coaxing but I was able to remove it with the transmission jack all the way forward and I slid the mount out toward the front of the vehicle. It may almost be easier to remove the 19mm bolt in the center separating it from the plastic nub at the bottom. I didn't try that though. My mount when removed had 1/8" less gap between the top and bottom plate. It also had some cracking but not more play when mounted in the vice then the new one. The mount was indeed bad and greatly improved the road handling of the vehicle when going over bumps. Hope this comment hopes those as much as your video did. Cheers!
Glad it worked out Kyle. Good job getting it done.
Always great detail keep up the videos the 4Runners are super similar to 90 series here in oz 👍🏼
luke neave good to know. It would be nice to know all the vehicles overseas that these repairs could benefit.
@@TimmyTheToolman pretty much the same as the 2004-onwards toyota V6 Hilux's over here in Australia
@@fknows1 Most of our audience comes from the US and then it's Canada and Australia comes in 3rd. The internet is pretty amazing. I've exchanged messages with people from all over the world because of this channel. Pretty cool.
23333rd
@@robertthibault9080 You lost me on your comment Robert. What does 23rd mean?
i have the same year 4runner 2wd. 2 years ago i replaced my driveshaft. now driving at 67 MPH, its vibrating. would it be the driveshaft is out of balance or a bad yoke or a word transmission mount? thank you, cliff
Vibrations can be hard to figure out. It could be the driveshaft is the culprit. Once a driveshaft is properly balanced, the only way I could see you getting a vibration from it is if one of the u-joints was bad or there was gross play in the splines of the slip yoke. Have you inspected your driveshaft for any play in the u-joints or slip yoke? There is a slim chance the balancing weight on the driveshaft came off, but those are welded on and I sort of doubt that happened but anything is possible. Check to see if the balancing weight is still on the shaft. No driveshaft is perfectly balanced so you should see a round plate somewhere on the shaft welded on. I sort of doubt your transmission mount could be the reason for the vibration but take a look at it and make sure the rubber hasn't become separated from the metal it's sandwiched between.
Timmy The Toolman thanks you! I’ll be check the driveshaft and try to pin point where the vibration is coming from thank you again for your help.
@@yota_guy8955 Let me know what you figure out.
Great video Timmy. Where did you get that repair manual? Thanks again for the video.
Swillynostank You're welcome and we're glad you like the video. I found the FSM set on Ebay.
Thank you sir.
@@TimmyTheToolman can you sell copies of the parts explain
Some copies of the pages
@@LuisMorales-fv1rk What pages do you need?
Where can i get manual book Like yours i need it i wanda chance the trasmission of mi toyota 4 runner 97 2.7 4 cilinders
I wanna change the trasmission
Do a search on Ebay. You will most likely find a set for sale for your year rig. A fair price is somewhere around $150 for the two volume set. There's also a wiring diagram book too you can get for a total of 3 books.
Hi Tim great video. did the new mounts make any difference and solve your excess movement (flex) problem with engine and transmission
We're glad you like the video. No, it didn't make a difference. The problem I have is with the rear driveshaft slip yoke binding on the main shaft. I think years of being improperly lubricated caused excessive wear to the splines and I'm just going to have to replace it one day because no amount of greasing helps anymore.
Hi Timmy, would you happen to know the part number for a transmission kickdown cable on a 98 4cyl runner??
Hey Maynor, I don't know the part number. If you can't figure out the part number via an internet search, you may just have to resort to going to your local Toyota dealer parts department to order it. But, before you do that, call Amanda at Camelback Toyota. parts.camelbacktoyota.com/partlocator/index.cfm?siteid=214329
Amanda handles the online sales for them and there's a chance she could get it for you. Their prices are very competitive with other online parts sellers.
Great information. Hopefully I won't have to do this, but at least now I can!
Thanks Francis. Yeah, hopefully you won't.
hey man, for engine mounts, is it the same remove and install for the 5 lug tacomas with the 3.4?
Yes, it would be the same. 1st Gen Tacomas are basically the same as 3rd Gen 4runners when it comes to the drive train.
I just replaced my transmission mount and the carrier bearing TODAY ! What are the odds?
Thats pretty crazy! slim odds indeed, are there any learns from your job that we didn't touch on?
Yes ! I was able to put the transmission mount without having to remove the cross member ! I lifted the transmission and had no problem getting it out ! Mine is a stick transmission too ! The carrier bearing is where most of the wear and tear was ! All Toyota parts ! Little over $400 ! Wonder how much Toyota would have charged me to do that job !! :-)
I just looked at my motor mounts and they look ok !! But I did notices these other mounts just below the motor mounts !! What are they for?? They're not looking so good ! They look like round disc shaped rubber absorbers held by an arm shaped bracket !! Thanks again !
William Goble Hey William, those are your bump stops for when your lower control arm experiences full travel upward. The absorber prevents the control arm from smashing the frame hard.
No not those ! LOL !! No these are different ! I know what your talking about !! Im going to try and find out and let you know ! These have a steal bracket that look like a bent arm !
Nice Gear-wrench tools for the job. Will have to get me some. Where did you get those rubber blocks Tim?
jake ounce Hey Jake, yeah, I love those gear wrench and other ratcheting head wrenches. Those flex head ratchets with the 120 points of engagement are awesome and we'll worth the expense.
I got the rubber pads on Amazon. I'm stuck at a fire way up in Northern California near the Oregon border and it's harder for me to look up my previous purchases and post links to them. When I get home, I'll put a link to all the helpful tools I used for this job in the video description.
Be careful fighting that fire- we need you back safe brother Tim!!
jake ounce Thanks Jake. I enjoy going out on these wildland fires but it can be hard work and a little dangerous at times. It can also be very boring because we don't always have a good assignment and we're just sitting around. You basically have to like camping, be able to stomach the same crappy food day after day, like being dirty and being uncomfortable a lot. If you're ok with all that, it's a great time.
Hey Jake, I'm back in town. I provided a link to the rubber pad I used in the video description.