If you take off the top plastic piece that says "V6 4.0" (only two bolts), you can go over the top of the engine and replace both sensors much easier. You can pull the sensor out and then undo the connector.
@@Cory-si5kiI took mine off yesterday. after you take out those first two bolts. It’s sitting on two other bolts with a slip on connect. Just use a little force from each side one at a time to pop it off that bolt using your hands to grab the cover and pop it off.
Thank you so much for making this video. After my 2005 Xterra shut off on me and threw the p0340 code, I knew I had to do something. I was going to call my mechanic, but figured I'd take a shot at fixing myself. I'm almost 50 years old and not a small guy anymore so crawling over the engine was fun (I threw a piece of cardboard and a blanket over that). Taking of the v6 cover did give a tad more room, and I needed every mm I could get. Replaced both sensors. Took me about 1 hour for the passenger side and then about 15 minutes for the drivers side. Half of the time was getting the sensor free from the connectors. You saved me a good bit of labor costs and gave me more confidence to do my own work. Thank you, thank you, thank you!!
Love the cardboard/blanket idea. I'm not even 40 yet and I am already starting to feel like I got ran over by a truck after working my vehicles. So glad to help man. That's awesome. Hope it's running great now. 💪🏻💪🏻
Hey Ry, First off, thanks for the excellent video. Second, I wanted to point out another video that helped me change out the passenger side sensor much easier. The trick is to switch back and forth from the passenger side to the driver side. 1. There is a 12 MM bolt that holds the wiring harness next to the sensor. Taking that off first gives a lot of room to get to the 10mm bolt holding in the sensor. You can get to that from the passenger side pretty easy 2. Switch over to the driver side to get to the 10mm bolt on the sensor that is on the passenger side. You have to lay across the engine, but it is much easier to reach. Take this bold out before you disconnect the sensor from the wiring harness. 3. After you pull the sensor out, you can pull it up and use a needle nose to disconnect from the wiring harness. 4. Put them all back in the opposite order. Also, there are two sharp pieces of metal that will dig into your forearms on either side. You can either wear a long sleeve jacket or you can put a towel over those. Doesn't seem like much until they've been digging into your arms for 30 minutes. Good luck. Totally fixed my issue.
thanks Todd. great advice. I have done 3 of these now. I do see that the new one I bought from Nissan direct is a different design with a metal shell on the sensor.
Ry the car guy saves the day again. My 2010 with 206k on the clock went out on me last night. I hooked up the scanner, got the code, watched the video and was squared away. She runs much smoother now! Thanks for your help.
Hey Ry, I just did both camshaft position sensors on my Xterra. Those electrical connectors were no joke! You’re right - the person who designed those should be flogged. Appreciate your video! Thank you for all you do.
I never in 1 million years would have figured out how to remove the camshaft position sensor connector, and I have my valve cover off right now. Thanks.
Thanks for this helpful video. Helped me save a bunch of money. I actually didn't replace my sensor, but just cleaned it up with some brake cleaner, put it back in, cleared the code and it started right up without throwing another code. Might be worth a try for some people. Regarding the connector, I took out the sensor with the harness connected, then flipped it over and used pliers to squeeze the little slider all the way towards the sensor, which automatically ejects the sensor out of the socket. No simultaneous pushing and pulling required. Leave the poor engineer alone. ;) I hope this helps some folks.
Thanks for the back story. Just got a PO345 fault today. Stuff generally happens when you're away from the garage. Great step by step video. Keep em coming...
Thanks for the great video. I replaced both of my cam position sensors yesterday. Looking at the difficulty with the connector I left the sensor connected to the wiring harness and removed the bolt first. That made it very easy to remove the connector from the sensor when the sensor was no longer bolted to the motor. Entire job both sides in 15min by doing it that way.
I love it when I google my codes, Ry shows up #1. I need to come down to Orlando and shake your hand. Thank you for your effort and time that ultimately makes my life that much easier when fixing my X. Much appreciated Sir!
Pertaining to the plug connector, it wasn't just push in and pull for me. If I pushed the tab in far enough it would practically eject itself from the sensor plug. And also if you just can't get the plug off, I just unbolted it and pulled the sensor still attached to the plug. Thank you so much for making this video it helped a lot!
Ry your videos help people so much i really hope you know how much we all appreciate what you do for us. I know ive said it before but ill say it again you have saved me a lot of money and that has really made my life and my wifes much better when times are ruff. Thanks again my friend!!!!
Thank you very much for the very detailed instructions. Whatever you do don't buy an aftermarket part because they didn't work at all. I took out the cheap ones and put in the right ones and it was a dream.
Just did both of these on an 06 frontier, great video, watched it before I went in and huge help. I was babe to do the entire thing in about an hour. I don't have camera and lighting was pretty rough, I would advise to do the driver side first. He is correct, it is way easier leaving you with the more difficult side second. However if you were doing it relatively blind like me you will at least know what to feel for on the passenger side as it is hidden quite well. Also I found taking off the V6 piece of plastic helped. I was able to get a ratchet with a short 10mm on the driver side but passenger i could only get a wrench, my ratchet wrench couldn't fit either. The bolts on mine could be finger loosened after the original wrench or ratchet loosen. Good luck everyone, Thanks Ry!
Ryan, a BIG Thanks for you doing these videos on the Nissan Xterra! I have a 2010, and when I need to do work on the Nissan your vids are so very Helpfull! Thanks again!
Today I bought a Nissan Xterra 08, and I am very happy to find this UA-cam channel, and tomorrow I will give a good wash to the vehicle and Saturday I will start to change from the oil, the brakes pads, spark plug, filters, gaskets and everything that seems, thanks friend for explaining and making life easier for us.
Thanks for the in depth video! The connector on driver’s side was a pain and I had to use needle nose vise grips with it pulled out of the hole to push it in far enough to release the sensor. This video helped me out a ton!
Another great informative video. Had these two sensors replaced on my 07 Frontier about 6 months ago at dealer ($ouch$), but it took care of problem so no complaint, however had I seen this video would have taken a shot at it myself. Some of your other videos gave me courage to do some DYI repairs with success in last couple of years.
Hitachi is the OEM for these - Made in Japan. I just ordered from Amazon (you can get them on Ebay etc. too). $45.00 each. Only needed the one for now.
I'm glad it was just the PO345 for me today considering it's 95 degrees. It was fairly easy, just had to make sure I didn't lose the bolt. Thanks for this man
Really appreciate your videos on the Xterra Ryan. I have the same generation Xterra, and your instructions gave me the confidence to do my own work on the Xterra. Keep up the good work. From Canada.
In case it helps anyone else, I had to really push HARD on the tab on the connector to get it to release. Ended up needing to remove the screws and then the connectors. No way I had the finger strength to release the connectors when the sensor was still seated, and I have at least average hand strength. I used a pair of pliers to pop the connector once I had it in a slightly more accessible place. Still, could not have done it without this video! Thanks, Ry!
I have had to replace this part twice in the last three years. Once $20.00 auto parts store brand the second time spent the money for the $80.00 OEM hopefully it will as long as the original. Also both times it went out I experienced different symptoms. Spend the money and buy OEM, was the lesson learned. Good travels!
Saved me 400$ doing this myself. Went with Hitachi sensors and replaced both. Knock on wood they don’t give any issues but for now they’re working and not throwing codes. Thanks!
Aweome video in 2024.....have an 06 Xterra X model with 210K....have the p0430 I'll be doing this replacement today....i experienced exactly what your experienced with engine stall out. Thanks again Ry for the helpful video 🙏🙏
Hey man, Nissans will tell you the "check engine" code if you: ) Sit in the driver's seat. 2) Turn the ignition key to the ON position and wait three seconds. (Do not start the car.) 3) Fully depress and release the accelerator pedal five times in less than five seconds. 4) Wait exactly seven seconds. Fully depress the accelerator pedal for ten seconds until the SES light flashes. 5) Release the accelerator pedal and start counting flashes to obtain the four-digit trouble code. Long flashes (0.6 seconds) indicate the first digit of the code; count the blinks one through nine and write down the first digit. (Ten blinks indicates a zero.) The next three digits follow in turn in the same fashion except with faster blinks (0.3 second) and a 1.0-second pause between digits.
Thank You....... I got the same problem with a 2008 Frontier.... Mine didn't shut off, but it takes forever for it to start... Well done..... Ordered both sensors from amazon........
I agree! At the leased flogged! Tarred and feathered is a good idea! Thank you for video! I couldn't get the clip off tye sensor to save my life. I even watched the video again! When commented on how oily it was, I thought could be dirt too. I grabbed a can of Master Blaster and soaked the connection. I tried again and the clip went further and came off! Yeah! I'm going to eat lunch and then tackle the other side. Thanks Pat
Dude...I just wanna give you a huge thanks man! Took my 2010 Xterra to get the smog inspection and failed, guy told me it needed a fkin engine! I saw your video and had it fixed today! Btw it totally helps to spray some lubricant on the connectors before attempting to disconnect them, works wonders and made stuff easier! God bless you man!
I watched your video as well as several others. One commonality, the bolt is hard to see. Or, can't be seen directly. I had to use a small mirror to see the bolt. I could see the bolt, from below, but could not get a wrench on it. Finally, I laid some 1x4s across the front fenders, then a piece of plywood, so I could lay over the engine. It was Kludge. I got a wrench on the bolt a couple of times was able to turn the wrench a few degrees. The bolt did not loosen the bolt and it appeared I was rounding the bolt. I spent almost 3 days on this. I brought my truck into the shop this morning. Kludge means everything you aren't supposed do, but, what is shown in safety videos.
You video was awesome, helped me change my passenger sensor with no issues, very straightforward, easy to understand. Only time I had some trouble was putting the plug back in at the end, almost torched the truck because I couldn’t clip it hahah. Awesome job bro.
Appreciate this video. I Was experiencing long crank time, followed this and had it fixed in an hour. Cussed whoever designed those connections the entire time though!
Absolutely right. I struggled and cussed for three hours trying to get the plug off. I didn't have the strength to push down the locking tab towards the engine given the awkward position I had to hold my hand in. Finally thought to remove the bolt and sensor first. Wish I had read this before I started. Removing the PCV valve and hose helped to clear a little more space on my Pathfinder.
Superb!!!! Very well done. Gives me the confidence that I can do this for my 2007 Pathfinder! My 2007 Pathfinder clearly is having a Cam Shaft Position sensor problem. Loss of Power as well as the VDC and Slip light is coming on, along with "Engine Service Soon". And yes, I'll do both, since I don't have an OBD reader to tell which one is causing the problem. You are on my follow list for my Pathfinder. :)
Exact same thing just happened on my 07 Pathfinder. Just bought the driver side sensor bc that was the only code I was getting. Replacing it in the morning. Any update on this solving the issue?
My 2010 has 218,00 miles (just bought it last month from my friend for $500) and today it stalled at a red light. It finally started after a minute of panic but the car jerked hard about 10 times while I was highway-driving home. I got home and the code was the p0340. Thanks for this video, I'll be doing this tomorrow with 2 new sensors! These single point of failure sensors really grind my gears.
Just following up... I laid on top of the engine which really is the way to go. The driver's side is right there in sight so I unplugged the connector, used a 10mm socket, pulled out the sensor and did the reverse. 5 minutes, if that. The previous owner/shop had broken the lock tab on the connector so it was a quick off and back on. For the passenger side I was able to sneak the socket wrench from the driver's side and pull out the sensor with the connector attached. To undo the lock tab I pushed it in with my left thumb and pushed a flathead perpendicular into the connector/sensor gap and twisted, which separated the sensor enough so the lock tab didn't reengage. The ability to use both arms/hands for the passenger side really does make a huge difference. The old passenger sensor only gave me trouble on that one day (but a lot of trouble) so I cleaned the oil from both of them and they're going right in the glovebox for emergencies. 😁
Good video, my only two additions are to get a step stool and LAY ON THE ENGINE. It makes reaching the passenger side sensor so much easier. Driver side is easy as well once laying on the engine. The plug on the passenger side gave me a world of trouble because that T went all the way in and didn't come out. I had to push it in and out multiple times before it would catch on the sensor.
Hey Ryan I had a similar issue with my 2007 Pathfinder. When the engine was cold it would crank hard without firing. On the second or third try it would fire up and run perfectly. I was fortunate that it never got so bad that I stalled while driving. This had been ongoing since I bought the car 4 weeks ago. It wasn't throwing any codes. From the blogs/Fb groups I figured cam shaft position sensor or crankshaft position sensor were most likely. I started with crankshaft position sensor because that's the cheapest sensor and the easiest to get to. I swapped the sensor on Tuesday and I'm 7 for 7 for perfect cold starts since swapping it. That might be another sensor you have to keep an eye on. Now I just need to get my overheating issue figured out. I'm hoping it's just the thermostat. I'm using your videos as a guide, they are fantastic. Thanks for the great content! - Lionel (Vancouver, BC) PS When I pulled my crank position sensor it also didn't have an o-ring (or the o-ring fell off) :/
Great video! I just did this job and want to share that I found easier to access both sensors form the drivers side after removing the top cover of the engine.
I'm finishing up doing this on my "05 & just wanted to add some notes.........first off, the SES light came on with "slip" light. Research sent me to pull codes & I only had the "P0340". I ordered the Hitachi replacements to do both. The driver side isn't bad.......but for passenger side, like many, the clip wouldn't budge, almost like it was glued on. Instead of reaching in left-handed, I removed the engine cover (easy), put a pad down over the engine & laid on top. You can reach down right handed & get a small 10mm on the bolt much easier this way. Even having the unit removed from engine it was still very stubborn to remove from the clip. Both original units measured identical with a meter......1.2k ohms & 15-16Megohms.....this was immediately after removal. About 20 hours later they measured 1.2k & around 2 Megaohms. Both new units measure 1.2k ohms & 90-94k ohms. Obviously both the originals were failing BUT IT ONLY THREW ONE CODE, hence the advice to replace both at once.
Hey Ryan, I did mine with the intake collector off while doing the spark plugs, much easier to get there. I also suggest doing the Crankshaft pos sensor behind the right wheel, easy peasy. For the left side I had to remove the catch can for better access
Hello Ry, any update on how your non-OEM parts have performed? I bought aftermarket sensors (Beck-Arnleyx2 and 1-Std. Motor Products via Rock Auto), arriving today. I'm having SERIOUS doubts about my decision now based on a few comments here about OEM only cam and crank sensors. AAAAARGH! Anyway, I feel blessed to have your YT channel as a resource, you do a great and thorough job sharing your knowledge! Thank you👍🏻👍🏻
Thank you so much for the super thanks! I really appreciate it. Honestly my aftermarket sensors have been just fine. I will say though that I replaced the Kim position sensors and a year or so later, the crank position sensor died. So I would replace all three at once. I replace them all Duralast brand and they have been great ever since.
Thanks for the video. My frontier is starting to act like it may need these and the crank position sensor, especially since I'm at 145k miles. This video makes me feel much leas daunted by the replacement.
Hey RTCG great content in all of your highly informative videos! I’d like to give you a personal shout out to say thanks for the work you do and for sharing the technical content.
I'm glad these sensors are on the engine, on the 2004 frontiers with the 3.3L V6, the camshaft sensor is in the distributor so if the sensor fails you have to buy a whole new distributor
My cam sensor just went out this past Saturday. Just left the dealership and yep definitely the cam sensor. Ugh. And of course they want $500 to swap them out. Looks like ima do a diy job.
Thank you for the video. I found that coming from the top is much easier than coming from the side. Just a thought. And flogging is not a harsh enough punishment.
Thanks again for all your helpful videos! My engine started cutting off when I was breaking, the code I got was congruent with the Camshaft position sensor, swapping the passenger fixed my problem, WHEW was that annoying to get to!
Sure is! As a side note you really should consider replacing the other cam sensor and the crank sensor as well. May find that you'll have issues again soon. They all work together and when one it's not the same brand they get weird.
@@Rythecarguy at first I only changed the passenger side due to laziness but after a few months I threw the driver side in which I should have done the first place cuz it only took a few minutes. I haven't changed the crank sensor though...
Thank you SO MUCH. I couldn't of done this repair without your video. And I also am volunteering to definitely go flog the person who designed that little T clip. There's 40 minutes of my life I'll never get back...
Thanks for explaining the install of 2 sensors together Ryan. I did the cam angle sensor (the top easy access one) in my 2003 nissan pulsar. It improved a lot, but not completely, so I'm about to replace the crank angle sensor (the bottom hard access one). Both sensors are identical in my model. Watched some other videos and gotta get under the car to access. Dammit. Here goes.
2008 Nissan Frontier 2WD V6. Driving to work Friday the truck took a "skip" but continued to run. After a short stop enroute to work I got a hard, chugging start and both "Service Engine Soon" and "SLIP" lights. After work it was AutoZone and the dreaded P0340 code. I need the truck Monday so $150 later I had both sensors. Thankfully one of them came with the high-temp lube. First the driver's side. It was easy. It about fell out so that's a clue. A channel lock plier made removing the "push-me-pull-you" connector a lot easier to remove. And it instilled a false confidence because the worst was yet to come. Yes, the passenger side was a bitch-and-a-half. Couldn't remove the temp sensor plug on the passenger side so I went in best as I could. Took a bit of leverage in a small space but I got the 10mm bolt out. Removing the sensor was a fight but it finally wriggled free. Slathered it up from the remaining high-temp lube and in it went. The bolt went in, and then came the maneuvers to tighten it best as I could in that small space. Connector "snapped" back on no problem. Fired right up and it seemed to have more power than before I got the code. So as you said, after much fighting, cursing, and the back of both hands abrased by the firewall, it was done. We'll not tell the sad tale of a dropped 1/4" drive 10mm socket, and combo wrench and how they went missing to the point I had to go out and buy a few new ones mid-work (I found the missing combo wrench later on; the socket went MIA) . Truck runs great and it seems to have even more power than before I got the code. Good video. Two thumbs up.
Great job on the sensor replacement...was doing the same on my Xterra and your explanation of the route getting to the right sensor saved me today. Thank you
Did mine today on a 2012 Xterra Pro4x with 96K miles. Man that passenger side was a U know what to get to MY LORD!!! But got ‘em done and she’s running like a champ!
Hi Ray, great video. Question, I replaced the one on the passenger side through the wheel well on my 2012 Pathfinder. Question is, is there a second sensor on the driver side? If so is it in the same location as the Xterra? Thanks!!
Hi, thank you for posting this, it's exactly what I need to fix. Will shops typically charge you to take off the Manifold to get to it easier? It doesn't look necessary.
So funny, three times now my xterra needed a repaired and like a week later you post a video on it. Our xterra must be on the same cycle. Glad to watch the videos, just bought my o2 sensors, hope not the cats too...being in CA they are about 500 each
Next time hit me up if your Xterra needs anything and I’ll just make a video on it first LOL. Yeah hopefully your cats are OK. They are so crazy expensive. It’s funny you say that too because cats and headers was going to be my next big project on the X.
Do you recommend changing both cam sensors and crank sensor, I was told that my 2013 Frontier 4.0L V6 comes with 2 cam position sensor and 1 crank position sensor..
@@Rythecarguy all good! i was hoping it miiight be in the same spot but i gotta just lay up there with a 10mm and see if i cant find it somehow lol. love your videos my bro! thanks for all your hard work🤙🏽
My 2010 has been throwing a P0335 code which is a crankshaft position sensor circuit error. I've replaced the crankshaft pos sensor about 2 months ago and its been fine until last few days, turned off on me while driving - immediately, like you described. It turned right back on and I drove home, where it's had rough starts, and it dies within 1 minute of cranking when it does crank. Called oreilly today and they said its possibly camshaft sensor(s) too.
mine was using an excessive amount of oil, I replaced the PCV valve and since I had the PCV hose off, it made it a bit easier to get to the bank 1 sensor, so I went ahead and put an new in ( i already had one). So, I did it while I was there, also I had just replaced the bank 2 sensor a week or so beforehand. Turned out to be pretty easy. The pcv valve cured the excessive oil consumption, the dealer had it in stock and it was only about 23$.
Wait on my new sensors to get her Saturday gonna try replacing myself as i do have a ratchet set and stuff but im extremely short with short arm span so im hoping i can even climb up in the engine bay and so this but this video gave me a lot of help in showing how to do this
I'm glad I'm not the only one who yells yessss when you finally get those stupid sensors out. I'm confused. My 2007 would start when it's warm out, but not below freezing. The slip and vdc and check engine lights were on. I replaced the crank sensor (so fun) the check engine light and slip sensor turn off. It starts. I replaced both a&b cam position sensors. (Took me 2 days) finally got everything plugged in and tightened. I plugged in everything that I had to unplug to get my hand back there. Connected the battery. It won't start now
What I found is it’s so much easier to go through the drivers side to get the sensor out and I clip it once you get it out. There is no wires or hose to worry about through the drivers side.
Did this with the spark plugs and like day and night when the engine is apart. It was easy and fast. Hardest part was def the connector. Both were super clean. Did the spray but could have skipped that step.
Hey Car Guy, Thank you for your videos, you helped me a lot. what is the bluish container 13:39 on the firewall with two hoses coming out of it? Kind regards....
I found this easiest to lay on top of the engine and hug it. Hands coming in from both sides. Also, don't disconnect the cable until removing the sensor. And, use long nose vice grips on the clip. It took me about 30 minutes for both.
Hello there! Thank you for all your info! It really helped me. I got into a situation with the passenger side one. My truck is a little lifted then normal. I slipped off my chair while putting the sensor in and turn It while inside, what do I do if it does not want to crank over now? It sounds like it's dead and don't want to turn on. Did I mess the whole truck up? Or just the sensor?? Please help me! Yes my arm is tire up when I fell as well. 🤦♂️ Smh
I'm sorry, that's no good. It should be able to twist inside without issue. If you put it back into its proper orientation and screw it in it should work. If not you may need to pull it out and inspect it for damage.
If you take off the top plastic piece that says "V6 4.0" (only two bolts), you can go over the top of the engine and replace both sensors much easier. You can pull the sensor out and then undo the connector.
Thanks
Great Tip, used a folded drop cloth over engine, able to get to both with two hands...wire harness are a pain....
This is what I did too. Fought it for a minute or two before taking the cover off. Still not easy but easier.
You are the best ❤
@@Cory-si5kiI took mine off yesterday. after you take out those first two bolts. It’s sitting on two other bolts with a slip on connect. Just use a little force from each side one at a time to pop it off that bolt using your hands to grab the cover and pop it off.
Thank you so much for making this video. After my 2005 Xterra shut off on me and threw the p0340 code, I knew I had to do something. I was going to call my mechanic, but figured I'd take a shot at fixing myself. I'm almost 50 years old and not a small guy anymore so crawling over the engine was fun (I threw a piece of cardboard and a blanket over that). Taking of the v6 cover did give a tad more room, and I needed every mm I could get. Replaced both sensors. Took me about 1 hour for the passenger side and then about 15 minutes for the drivers side. Half of the time was getting the sensor free from the connectors. You saved me a good bit of labor costs and gave me more confidence to do my own work. Thank you, thank you, thank you!!
Love the cardboard/blanket idea. I'm not even 40 yet and I am already starting to feel like I got ran over by a truck after working my vehicles. So glad to help man. That's awesome. Hope it's running great now. 💪🏻💪🏻
Hey Ry, First off, thanks for the excellent video. Second, I wanted to point out another video that helped me change out the passenger side sensor much easier. The trick is to switch back and forth from the passenger side to the driver side.
1. There is a 12 MM bolt that holds the wiring harness next to the sensor. Taking that off first gives a lot of room to get to the 10mm bolt holding in the sensor. You can get to that from the passenger side pretty easy
2. Switch over to the driver side to get to the 10mm bolt on the sensor that is on the passenger side. You have to lay across the engine, but it is much easier to reach. Take this bold out before you disconnect the sensor from the wiring harness.
3. After you pull the sensor out, you can pull it up and use a needle nose to disconnect from the wiring harness.
4. Put them all back in the opposite order.
Also, there are two sharp pieces of metal that will dig into your forearms on either side. You can either wear a long sleeve jacket or you can put a towel over those. Doesn't seem like much until they've been digging into your arms for 30 minutes.
Good luck. Totally fixed my issue.
Todd, you're the real MVP. Doing the passenger side was a lot easier for me after removing the 12mm bolt the way you outlined!
thanks Todd. great advice. I have done 3 of these now. I do see that the new one I bought from Nissan direct is a different design with a metal shell on the sensor.
Ry the car guy saves the day again. My 2010 with 206k on the clock went out on me last night. I hooked up the scanner, got the code, watched the video and was squared away. She runs much smoother now! Thanks for your help.
Glad to help! Thanks for watching and for the Sub.
every time something fails on this truck i can always count on you. thanks again for these videos dude!
Anytime! So glad they help. 👍🏻
Hey Ry, I just did both camshaft position sensors on my Xterra. Those electrical connectors were no joke! You’re right - the person who designed those should be flogged. Appreciate your video! Thank you for all you do.
i can change these in like 2 minutes each use a stool to reach better
Is it the same sensor for both sides
@@somebomb1909 Passenger side is P0340 Driver side is P0345 and comes out at an angle...
I never in 1 million years would have figured out how to remove the camshaft position sensor connector, and I have my valve cover off right now. Thanks.
You're welcome, thanks for watching! 💪🏻
Thanks for this helpful video. Helped me save a bunch of money. I actually didn't replace my sensor, but just cleaned it up with some brake cleaner, put it back in, cleared the code and it started right up without throwing another code. Might be worth a try for some people.
Regarding the connector, I took out the sensor with the harness connected, then flipped it over and used pliers to squeeze the little slider all the way towards the sensor, which automatically ejects the sensor out of the socket. No simultaneous pushing and pulling required. Leave the poor engineer alone. ;) I hope this helps some folks.
Hey Ry, it's me again...haha😂...once again you saved the day!! When it comes to my X you're always the first person I go to.
Hello again, glad to help!
He is very handsome mechanic he can be popular actor like Tom cruise
Sir I pixedy car because of you save big money thank you so happy
@@Rythecarguy can you guve me suggestion which brand of camshaft and crankshaft sensor i will buy. My x is also having symptoms like yours. Thanks
@@Rythecarguy can you please help me with my question with the sensor? I put it in the comments.
Thanks for the back story. Just got a PO345 fault today. Stuff generally happens when you're away from the garage. Great step by step video. Keep em coming...
Glad it helped
Thanks for the great video. I replaced both of my cam position sensors yesterday. Looking at the difficulty with the connector I left the sensor connected to the wiring harness and removed the bolt first. That made it very easy to remove the connector from the sensor when the sensor was no longer bolted to the motor. Entire job both sides in 15min by doing it that way.
I love it when I google my codes, Ry shows up #1. I need to come down to Orlando and shake your hand. Thank you for your effort and time that ultimately makes my life that much easier when fixing my X. Much appreciated Sir!
Hell yea, I love that too hahaha. Thanks for watching and supporting the channel.
Who needs a manual when ry has it covered! You've saved me tons of money!
Glad to hear my man! That’s awesome! 👍🏻
Pertaining to the plug connector, it wasn't just push in and pull for me. If I pushed the tab in far enough it would practically eject itself from the sensor plug. And also if you just can't get the plug off, I just unbolted it and pulled the sensor still attached to the plug. Thank you so much for making this video it helped a lot!
Ry your videos help people so much i really hope you know how much we all appreciate what you do for us. I know ive said it before but ill say it again you have saved me a lot of money and that has really made my life and my wifes much better when times are ruff. Thanks again my friend!!!!
You're welcome thanks for sending such a nice message
Thank you very much for the very detailed instructions. Whatever you do don't buy an aftermarket part because they didn't work at all. I took out the cheap ones and put in the right ones and it was a dream.
💪🏻💪🏻
Just did both of these on an 06 frontier, great video, watched it before I went in and huge help. I was babe to do the entire thing in about an hour. I don't have camera and lighting was pretty rough, I would advise to do the driver side first. He is correct, it is way easier leaving you with the more difficult side second. However if you were doing it relatively blind like me you will at least know what to feel for on the passenger side as it is hidden quite well. Also I found taking off the V6 piece of plastic helped. I was able to get a ratchet with a short 10mm on the driver side but passenger i could only get a wrench, my ratchet wrench couldn't fit either. The bolts on mine could be finger loosened after the original wrench or ratchet loosen. Good luck everyone, Thanks Ry!
Ryan, a BIG Thanks for you doing these videos on the Nissan Xterra! I have a 2010, and when I need to do work on the Nissan your vids are so very Helpfull! Thanks again!
You're welcome! Glad it's helping.
Today I bought a Nissan Xterra 08, and I am very happy to find this UA-cam channel, and tomorrow I will give a good wash to the vehicle and Saturday I will start to change from the oil, the brakes pads, spark plug, filters, gaskets and everything that seems, thanks friend for explaining and making life easier for us.
Thanks for the in depth video! The connector on driver’s side was a pain and I had to use needle nose vise grips with it pulled out of the hole to push it in far enough to release the sensor. This video helped me out a ton!
Another great informative video. Had these two sensors replaced on my 07 Frontier about 6 months ago at dealer ($ouch$), but it took care of problem so no complaint, however had I seen this video would have taken a shot at it myself. Some of your other videos gave me courage to do some DYI repairs with success in last couple of years.
What did the dealer charge?
Hitachi is the OEM for these - Made in Japan. I just ordered from Amazon (you can get them on Ebay etc. too). $45.00 each. Only needed the one for now.
I'm glad it was just the PO345 for me today considering it's 95 degrees. It was fairly easy, just had to make sure I didn't lose the bolt. Thanks for this man
Really appreciate your videos on the Xterra Ryan. I have the same generation Xterra, and your instructions gave me the confidence to do my own work on the Xterra. Keep up the good work. From Canada.
Thanks for watching man. I really appreciate it!
In case it helps anyone else, I had to really push HARD on the tab on the connector to get it to release. Ended up needing to remove the screws and then the connectors. No way I had the finger strength to release the connectors when the sensor was still seated, and I have at least average hand strength. I used a pair of pliers to pop the connector once I had it in a slightly more accessible place. Still, could not have done it without this video! Thanks, Ry!
I have had to replace this part twice in the last three years. Once $20.00 auto parts store brand the second time spent the money for the $80.00 OEM hopefully it will as long as the original. Also both times it went out I experienced different symptoms. Spend the money and buy OEM, was the lesson learned. Good travels!
Exactly. I heard for any electrical on nissans you should go with oem parts
Thank you for this video. Helped immensely!! That bank 1 was a witch to get to but would've been 10x harder without your video.
Saved me 400$ doing this myself. Went with Hitachi sensors and replaced both. Knock on wood they don’t give any issues but for now they’re working and not throwing codes. Thanks!
You're welcome! I know people crap on after market sensors but mine have been great. No issues so far.
Aweome video in 2024.....have an 06 Xterra X model with 210K....have the p0430 I'll be doing this replacement today....i experienced exactly what your experienced with engine stall out.
Thanks again Ry for the helpful video 🙏🙏
Hey Ry! Just wanted to say thank you for the work you put in to share your knowledge, I was able to replace both my sensors today during my “lunch” !!
That's awesome! You're welcome and thanks for watching!
Hey man, Nissans will tell you the "check engine" code if you:
) Sit in the driver's seat.
2) Turn the ignition key to the ON position and wait three seconds. (Do not start the car.)
3) Fully depress and release the accelerator pedal five times in less than five seconds.
4) Wait exactly seven seconds. Fully depress the accelerator pedal for ten seconds until the SES light flashes.
5) Release the accelerator pedal and start counting flashes to obtain the four-digit trouble code.
Long flashes (0.6 seconds) indicate the first digit of the code; count the blinks one through nine and write down the first digit. (Ten blinks indicates a zero.)
The next three digits follow in turn in the same fashion except with faster blinks (0.3 second) and a 1.0-second pause between digits.
Thank You....... I got the same problem with a 2008 Frontier.... Mine didn't shut off, but it takes forever for it to start... Well done..... Ordered both sensors from amazon........
Thanks for the tip about changing the right side from the top. That was so much easier.
So glad to hear!
Great Tip on not to spin or twist when replacing. The location its in makes it difficult to slide in without twisting around. Great content as always
Thanks man
I agree! At the leased flogged! Tarred and feathered is a good idea! Thank you for video! I couldn't get the clip off tye sensor to save my life. I even watched the video again! When commented on how oily it was, I thought could be dirt too. I grabbed a can of Master Blaster and soaked the connection. I tried again and the clip went further and came off! Yeah! I'm going to eat lunch and then tackle the other side.
Thanks
Pat
Hope it went well!
Dude...I just wanna give you a huge thanks man! Took my 2010 Xterra to get the smog inspection and failed, guy told me it needed a fkin engine! I saw your video and had it fixed today! Btw it totally helps to spray some lubricant on the connectors before attempting to disconnect them, works wonders and made stuff easier! God bless you man!
So glad to help! 🤘🏻💪🏻
I watched your video as well as several others. One commonality, the bolt is hard to see. Or, can't be seen directly. I had to use a small mirror to see the bolt. I could see the bolt, from below, but could not get a wrench on it. Finally, I laid some 1x4s across the front fenders, then a piece of plywood, so I could lay over the engine. It was Kludge. I got a wrench on the bolt a couple of times was able to turn the wrench a few degrees. The bolt did not loosen the bolt and it appeared I was rounding the bolt. I spent almost 3 days on this. I brought my truck into the shop this morning. Kludge means everything you aren't supposed do, but, what is shown in safety videos.
You’re awesome bro , all your Xterra videos for the 2G are legit !
Thanks Theo! Glad they help. 💪🏻👍🏻
You video was awesome, helped me change my passenger sensor with no issues, very straightforward, easy to understand. Only time I had some trouble was putting the plug back in at the end, almost torched the truck because I couldn’t clip it hahah. Awesome job bro.
haha, glad it helped. Thanks for watching.
Any tips on getting the sensor clipped back on?
Really appreciate your showing this. It takes a lot of the apprehension away from working on my beloved Xterra.
That’s why I do it my man! Glad it helps.
Appreciate this video. I Was experiencing long crank time, followed this and had it fixed in an hour. Cussed whoever designed those connections the entire time though!
I like how you got the best Camara angle for us to see exactly what you are doing.
🤘🏻
Great video. I found it easier to remove the bolt on each one first and then the plugs, so consider that if you are struggling with the plugs.
Designer still deserves a flogging.
Absolutely right. I struggled and cussed for three hours trying to get the plug off. I didn't have the strength to push down the locking tab towards the engine given the awkward position I had to hold my hand in. Finally thought to remove the bolt and sensor first. Wish I had read this before I started. Removing the PCV valve and hose helped to clear a little more space on my Pathfinder.
Brother you saved our Butt. If you are ever in Western Montana I owe you & your's Dinner. Thanks Kat
You're on! Montana is on my list. 🤘🏻👍🏻 glad the video helped.
Superb!!!! Very well done. Gives me the confidence that I can do this for my 2007 Pathfinder! My 2007 Pathfinder clearly is having a Cam Shaft Position sensor problem. Loss of Power as well as the VDC and Slip light is coming on, along with "Engine Service Soon". And yes, I'll do both, since I don't have an OBD reader to tell which one is causing the problem. You are on my follow list for my Pathfinder. :)
Exact same thing just happened on my 07 Pathfinder. Just bought the driver side sensor bc that was the only code I was getting. Replacing it in the morning. Any update on this solving the issue?
Bro my money got sketched out and went somewhere else
My 07 frontier did the same thing with the slip light. Even jerked pretty bad once real hard while driving.
Nissan quoted me $560 for both parts and labor. I am replacing mine thanks to you. I was amazed at how much their parts were. $300
Really though. The OEM parts are nuts! Have fun!
Curious if your replacement sensors lasted. Hitachi seems to be the favorite non-OEM choice.
I’m doing both my sensors tomorrow, as always you come through with an excellent video. Thanks Ry!
Glad to help! Hope it went well.
@@Rythecarguy thanks it went well, took about 45 minutes, definitely not too easy but I got it done. My X is purring again
My 2010 has 218,00 miles (just bought it last month from my friend for $500) and today it stalled at a red light. It finally started after a minute of panic but the car jerked hard about 10 times while I was highway-driving home. I got home and the code was the p0340. Thanks for this video, I'll be doing this tomorrow with 2 new sensors! These single point of failure sensors really grind my gears.
I agree. Make sure you bite the bullet and also replace the crank sensor too. Once you do that you will be worry free for another 200k miles
@@Rythecarguy I'm scared to replace another point-of-failure sensor with no code yet. I'm going to have a glovebox full of failsafes! 😄
@@Rythecarguy My 2013 has 85K and this has been the first problem I've had.
Just following up... I laid on top of the engine which really is the way to go. The driver's side is right there in sight so I unplugged the connector, used a 10mm socket, pulled out the sensor and did the reverse. 5 minutes, if that. The previous owner/shop had broken the lock tab on the connector so it was a quick off and back on.
For the passenger side I was able to sneak the socket wrench from the driver's side and pull out the sensor with the connector attached. To undo the lock tab I pushed it in with my left thumb and pushed a flathead perpendicular into the connector/sensor gap and twisted, which separated the sensor enough so the lock tab didn't reengage. The ability to use both arms/hands for the passenger side really does make a huge difference.
The old passenger sensor only gave me trouble on that one day (but a lot of trouble) so I cleaned the oil from both of them and they're going right in the glovebox for emergencies. 😁
Good video, my only two additions are to get a step stool and LAY ON THE ENGINE. It makes reaching the passenger side sensor so much easier. Driver side is easy as well once laying on the engine. The plug on the passenger side gave me a world of trouble because that T went all the way in and didn't come out. I had to push it in and out multiple times before it would catch on the sensor.
🤘🏻🤘🏻
Awesome video sir! It helped me a bunch. Especially after hearing the symptoms. We have been going through exactly the same thing!
Hey Ryan I had a similar issue with my 2007 Pathfinder. When the engine was cold it would crank hard without firing. On the second or third try it would fire up and run perfectly. I was fortunate that it never got so bad that I stalled while driving. This had been ongoing since I bought the car 4 weeks ago. It wasn't throwing any codes. From the blogs/Fb groups I figured cam shaft position sensor or crankshaft position sensor were most likely. I started with crankshaft position sensor because that's the cheapest sensor and the easiest to get to. I swapped the sensor on Tuesday and I'm 7 for 7 for perfect cold starts since swapping it. That might be another sensor you have to keep an eye on.
Now I just need to get my overheating issue figured out. I'm hoping it's just the thermostat. I'm using your videos as a guide, they are fantastic. Thanks for the great content!
- Lionel (Vancouver, BC)
PS When I pulled my crank position sensor it also didn't have an o-ring (or the o-ring fell off) :/
Great video! I just did this job and want to share that I found easier to access both sensors form the drivers side after removing the top cover of the engine.
👍🏻👍🏻
I'm finishing up doing this on my "05 & just wanted to add some notes.........first off, the SES light came on with "slip" light. Research sent me to pull codes & I only had the "P0340". I ordered the Hitachi replacements to do both. The driver side isn't bad.......but for passenger side, like many, the clip wouldn't budge, almost like it was glued on. Instead of reaching in left-handed, I removed the engine cover (easy), put a pad down over the engine & laid on top. You can reach down right handed & get a small 10mm on the bolt much easier this way. Even having the unit removed from engine it was still very stubborn to remove from the clip.
Both original units measured identical with a meter......1.2k ohms & 15-16Megohms.....this was immediately after removal. About 20 hours later they measured 1.2k & around 2 Megaohms. Both new units measure 1.2k ohms & 90-94k ohms. Obviously both the originals were failing BUT IT ONLY THREW ONE CODE, hence the advice to replace both at once.
Hey Ryan, I did mine with the intake collector off while doing the spark plugs, much easier to get there. I also suggest doing the Crankshaft pos sensor behind the right wheel, easy peasy. For the left side I had to remove the catch can for better access
Great tip! Combining jobs is always a great idea.
@@Rythecarguy I just ordered crankshaft position sensor from rockauto
You answered my question I was going to ask if both sensors should be done at the same time
Hello Ry, any update on how your non-OEM parts have performed? I bought aftermarket sensors (Beck-Arnleyx2 and 1-Std. Motor Products via Rock Auto), arriving today. I'm having SERIOUS doubts about my decision now based on a few comments here about OEM only cam and crank sensors. AAAAARGH! Anyway, I feel blessed to have your YT channel as a resource, you do a great and thorough job sharing your knowledge! Thank you👍🏻👍🏻
Thank you so much for the super thanks! I really appreciate it. Honestly my aftermarket sensors have been just fine. I will say though that I replaced the Kim position sensors and a year or so later, the crank position sensor died. So I would replace all three at once. I replace them all Duralast brand and they have been great ever since.
@@AnX8765 oh that's great. Usually when they start to go you get stalling and refusal to start. So good stuff. You have a good weekend as well.
Great video! It def solved my issues! I could not get the wiring harness off though until I removed the sensor first with the 10mm socket
I love that your thumbnail is you holding a GIANT sensor
Thank you! I'm glad someone appreciates the silly thumbnail. 😜
TKS FOR THE AWESOME POST,, PASSENGER SIDE IS NO JOKE... DRIVERS SIDE IN AND OUT...
Thanks for the video. My frontier is starting to act like it may need these and the crank position sensor, especially since I'm at 145k miles. This video makes me feel much leas daunted by the replacement.
It’s easy, you got this.
Already had to replace my crankshaft position sensor so I'm sure I'll be doing this in the future. Thanks Ryan!
No problem!! Thanks for watching man.
Hey RTCG great content in all of your highly informative videos! I’d like to give you a personal shout out to say thanks for the work you do and for sharing the technical content.
Thanks man. I appreciate you watching!
I’m glad I found this video I have to do my mother in laws xterra tomorrow thank you for this knowledgeable video 🤙🏽
Glad I could help! I hope it went well!
I'm glad these sensors are on the engine, on the 2004 frontiers with the 3.3L V6, the camshaft sensor is in the distributor so if the sensor fails you have to buy a whole new distributor
My cam sensor just went out this past Saturday. Just left the dealership and yep definitely the cam sensor. Ugh. And of course they want $500 to swap them out. Looks like ima do a diy job.
Diy done. And I saved $420 lol.
Thank you for the video. I found that coming from the top is much easier than coming from the side. Just a thought. And flogging is not a harsh enough punishment.
Great video as always. Thanks so much for spending Your time making videos that save me time on repairs. That's very noble of you!!
Thanks again for all your helpful videos! My engine started cutting off when I was breaking, the code I got was congruent with the Camshaft position sensor, swapping the passenger fixed my problem, WHEW was that annoying to get to!
Sure is! As a side note you really should consider replacing the other cam sensor and the crank sensor as well. May find that you'll have issues again soon. They all work together and when one it's not the same brand they get weird.
@@Rythecarguy at first I only changed the passenger side due to laziness but after a few months I threw the driver side in which I should have done the first place cuz it only took a few minutes. I haven't changed the crank sensor though...
Thank you SO MUCH. I couldn't of done this repair without your video. And I also am volunteering to definitely go flog the person who designed that little T clip. There's 40 minutes of my life I'll never get back...
Thanks for explaining the install of 2 sensors together Ryan. I did the cam angle sensor (the top easy access one) in my 2003 nissan pulsar.
It improved a lot, but not completely, so I'm about to replace the crank angle sensor (the bottom hard access one).
Both sensors are identical in my model. Watched some other videos and gotta get under the car to access. Dammit. Here goes.
2008 Nissan Frontier 2WD V6. Driving to work Friday the truck took a "skip" but continued to run. After a short stop enroute to work I got a hard, chugging start and both "Service Engine Soon" and "SLIP" lights. After work it was AutoZone and the dreaded P0340 code. I need the truck Monday so $150 later I had both sensors. Thankfully one of them came with the high-temp lube. First the driver's side. It was easy. It about fell out so that's a clue. A channel lock plier made removing the "push-me-pull-you" connector a lot easier to remove. And it instilled a false confidence because the worst was yet to come. Yes, the passenger side was a bitch-and-a-half. Couldn't remove the temp sensor plug on the passenger side so I went in best as I could. Took a bit of leverage in a small space but I got the 10mm bolt out. Removing the sensor was a fight but it finally wriggled free. Slathered it up from the remaining high-temp lube and in it went. The bolt went in, and then came the maneuvers to tighten it best as I could in that small space. Connector "snapped" back on no problem. Fired right up and it seemed to have more power than before I got the code. So as you said, after much fighting, cursing, and the back of both hands abrased by the firewall, it was done. We'll not tell the sad tale of a dropped 1/4" drive 10mm socket, and combo wrench and how they went missing to the point I had to go out and buy a few new ones mid-work (I found the missing combo wrench later on; the socket went MIA) . Truck runs great and it seems to have even more power than before I got the code. Good video. Two thumbs up.
Great job on the sensor replacement...was doing the same on my Xterra and your explanation of the route getting to the right sensor saved me today. Thank you
Glad it helped, You're welcome. Thank you for watching!
Thank you
Thank You Ry it was an amazing video, hope you have a wonderful long weekend. Stay safe. My Xterra is ready to go camping and celebrate my Birthday.
Thank you, that sounds great! I hope you have a nice long weekend and enjoy your birthday!
Did mine today on a 2012 Xterra Pro4x with 96K miles. Man that passenger side was a U know what to get to MY LORD!!! But got ‘em done and she’s running like a champ!
Heck yea! Glad to hear you have it worked out.
Hi Ray, great video. Question, I replaced the one on the passenger side through the wheel well on my 2012 Pathfinder. Question is, is there a second sensor on the driver side? If so is it in the same location as the Xterra?
Thanks!!
Thank you! Great explanations that saved me a lot of money
Hi, thank you for posting this, it's exactly what I need to fix. Will shops typically charge you to take off the Manifold to get to it easier? It doesn't look necessary.
Thank you dude this video was very helpful, I’ll really glad you said to change both at the same time
*im really glad
My pleasure!
Thank you very much for your help in taking care of my problem. Well done
You're welcome. Thanks for watching.
So funny, three times now my xterra needed a repaired and like a week later you post a video on it. Our xterra must be on the same cycle. Glad to watch the videos, just bought my o2 sensors, hope not the cats too...being in CA they are about 500 each
Next time hit me up if your Xterra needs anything and I’ll just make a video on it first LOL. Yeah hopefully your cats are OK. They are so crazy expensive. It’s funny you say that too because cats and headers was going to be my next big project on the X.
@@Rythecarguy thanks man, you do awesome work
I bought the obdlink because of you. Been working great
Great to hear! Its pretty great right?!? Handy as hell.
Do you recommend changing both cam sensors and crank sensor, I was told that my 2013 Frontier 4.0L V6 comes with 2 cam position sensor and 1 crank position sensor..
my dude! tried this on my vg33e and am simply lost, you made this look so easy 😫
Oh, totally different engine. Sorry my dude I don't know anything about those.
@@Rythecarguy all good! i was hoping it miiight be in the same spot but i gotta just lay up there with a 10mm and see if i cant find it somehow lol. love your videos my bro! thanks for all your hard work🤙🏽
You did amazing! Thanks for putting this video together!
My 2010 has been throwing a P0335 code which is a crankshaft position sensor circuit error. I've replaced the crankshaft pos sensor about 2 months ago and its been fine until last few days, turned off on me while driving - immediately, like you described. It turned right back on and I drove home, where it's had rough starts, and it dies within 1 minute of cranking when it does crank. Called oreilly today and they said its possibly camshaft sensor(s) too.
Thanks for the video. Was able to do both in less than an hour and a half.
Awesome!
mine was using an excessive amount of oil, I replaced the PCV valve and since I had the PCV hose off, it made it a bit easier to get to the bank 1 sensor, so I went ahead and put an new in ( i already had one). So, I did it while I was there, also I had just replaced the bank 2 sensor a week or so beforehand. Turned out to be pretty easy. The pcv valve cured the excessive oil consumption, the dealer had it in stock and it was only about 23$.
Wait on my new sensors to get her Saturday gonna try replacing myself as i do have a ratchet set and stuff but im extremely short with short arm span so im hoping i can even climb up in the engine bay and so this but this video gave me a lot of help in showing how to do this
Thanks for sharing the how-to and link. Hopefully my swap is as straight forward as yours 👍
You're welcome, Hope
It goes well!
You rock! These videos are a huge help on my dads truck :)
Glad to hear it! Thank you.
I'm glad I'm not the only one who yells yessss when you finally get those stupid sensors out. I'm confused. My 2007 would start when it's warm out, but not below freezing. The slip and vdc and check engine lights were on. I replaced the crank sensor (so fun) the check engine light and slip sensor turn off. It starts. I replaced both a&b cam position sensors. (Took me 2 days) finally got everything plugged in and tightened. I plugged in everything that I had to unplug to get my hand back there. Connected the battery. It won't start now
Ry, just changed mine out with the help of this video. Thank you.
But now the car starts rough and I still have the codes. SES, VDC & SLIP?? Help
What I found is it’s so much easier to go through the drivers side to get the sensor out and I clip it once you get it out. There is no wires or hose to worry about through the drivers side.
👍🏻
Did this with the spark plugs and like day and night when the engine is apart. It was easy and fast. Hardest part was def the connector. Both were super clean. Did the spray but could have skipped that step.
Hey Car Guy, Thank you for your videos, you helped me a lot. what is the bluish container 13:39 on the firewall with two hoses coming out of it? Kind regards....
Love all your content. Has helped me so much. I wish I could ask you a question about my Xterra before I have to take it to someone :(
Asks away. I'll answer the best I can. Ry@rtcg.tv
I found this easiest to lay on top of the engine and hug it. Hands coming in from both sides. Also, don't disconnect the cable until removing the sensor. And, use long nose vice grips on the clip. It took me about 30 minutes for both.
Hello there! Thank you for all your info! It really helped me. I got into a situation with the passenger side one. My truck is a little lifted then normal. I slipped off my chair while putting the sensor in and turn It while inside, what do I do if it does not want to crank over now? It sounds like it's dead and don't want to turn on. Did I mess the whole truck up? Or just the sensor?? Please help me! Yes my arm is tire up when I fell as well. 🤦♂️ Smh
I'm sorry, that's no good. It should be able to twist inside without issue. If you put it back into its proper orientation and screw it in it should work. If not you may need to pull it out and inspect it for damage.
ONCE AGAIN THANK YOU SO MUCH!!! you saved me in a pinch yet again
My pleasure man. Glad to help!
Did both wish I found you a while ago. My frontier 08 keeps me busy like real busy
I have a Nissan pathfinder 2008 .... after watching these video... I literally change these myself bank 1 and 2
That’s awesome Jess! Get it! 💪🏻🤘🏻
@@Rythecarguy I've done cranshaft also and few others...probably time to change my car 😆
Yeeeeessss another xterra video, I like when u make these cause I got a 07 Pathfinder and it really helps me out 👍🏾
👍🏻👍🏻
07 pathfinder over 197806 miles running good. get those sensors and transmission fluid change no flush. Then car run lkje new