Thank you for this post. I will try this on a mule. While I could see your method work out on a World War II aircraft with minimal stencils, I’d hate to have to try do this on a 1/48 Phantom. I don’t know why Eduard changed their decals in the first place. As I understand it, they don’t recommend doing anything to remove this carrier film. It seems to me that they did this as a cost saving measure, and not to improve their products.
I also cant wait for the next time and to optimise the results a bit more by using a softer solution before removing the covering film. In this video i really went hard on these decals for the sake of testing Thanks for the feedback!
That is an excellent technique. I have a few of the newer Eduard kits and will use this technique. However, I'm wondering if the technique can be adjusted just a bit to mitigate removal of the color. Yes, it does give somewhat of a chipped effect, which may be desirable in some cases. However, I am wondering if a softer type of brush bristles may prevent the slight lifting of the color. Also perhaps once the clear film has lifted, tweezers could be used to slowly remove it, vs. the scrubbing motion with the brush. Anyway... it's all speculation at this point. Thanks again.
Yes you are right, its not at a 100% rate, if i didnt had a worn aircraft model anyway, it would have bothered me to loose some of the colour of the decal. Good thoughts with the brush👌🏼 So i will try to refine this technique, to get it up to at least 99.5%😄 Thanks for the feedback!
I still don't understand what Eduard are trying to achieve - they say that the decals aren't specifically designed to have the film lifted and they give no advice for taking the film off, but if you don't, they aren't very nice. Your method is great, the best I've seen, but still not 100% guaranteed so I'm not going to spend days on a kit just to hope that it turns out ok in the end. For me it means factoring in aftermarket decals into the price when making a decision on an Eduard kit.
I will do another test soon and will use decal softer solution this time. Trying to get it up to 100%. I understand your point, this is the reason why im doing this. Thanks for the feedback!
I think they may be trying to merge standard decals with the effect of dry transfer decals, which give a painted-on look. Think of it as an upside down decal. With a standard decal, the layers are paper>glue>carrier film>ink. With this new generation, the order is paper>glue>ink>carrier film. So, as the glue sets the ink and the decal dries, the carrier film is lifted and all you have left is the ink, which gives the look of painted-on markings.
@@pawpawstew You'd think that if they were trying to produce something that was going to be market leading and give them a sales advantage, they'd actually tell you that and show you how to use them.
Amazing tip Chris! And that Zero looks sooooo nice, congrats! A question regarding the decals... how much time did they rest ON the model before you use your wonderful tool? Thanks and cheers from Chile.
I haven’t brought another Eduard kit since they changed the type of decals. Have tried the new type decals and had a really bad experience. Spent all that time on making a kit, only to get ruined at the decal stage. Shame have missed out on some really nice kits that I would have purchased. I was an Eduard fan boy. Won’t buy another Eduard kit until they change the type of decals. My choice and my loss I suppose.
Altough i do like these decals, what i dont get is why Eduard dont put out some information and instruction about the handling. Not my understanding of good marketing. Thanks for the feedback!
I welcome every evolutionary step regarding decals. I think you have to look at it on a case by case basis. It is always a risk to use these decals on uneven surfaces. You have to assess beforehand whether you will be able to repair the affected areas in the event of an accident. It is always to be expected that the decal will splinter over panel lines or other uneven surfaces. So far I have had good experiences on smooth surfaces. I also notice that these decals don't always have the best print quality. In addition, in some cases I think I can see a shadow around the decal where the carrier film used to be - but that could be due to the clear varnish used, etc. that is underneath. I hope that there will be further steps here in the future - perhaps also from other manufacturers - to further develop this matter or find a better solution. If you had a really working concept here, it would be revolutionary.
Yes i guess this is really the weak spot of these decals: panel lines and very uneven surfaces. I will do more testings involving decal solutions for better adapting. Thanks for the feedback!
Good to see that it is possible to remove the top film. I still think of it as a lot of extra effort to be imposed on the modeller for limited benefit.
I've peeled Eduard decals with some success. Gloss coat, decal set(micro set), decal softer (micro sol or solvaset) so they really bed down. Decals dry for minimum 24hrs. Then detach Tamiya tape lightly pressed onto decal to remove film. Seemed to work well on my last Eduard Spitfire model with almost no decal removed. However I have had the whole decal peel off with this method on a test model. Seems a lot of work with no guarantee of success. Why can't Eduard just provide good quality decals that are proven to work such as Cartograph? Especially in their profi packs which are expensive kits. If Airfix and Revell can provide quality decals why can't Eduard?
I think in their view these are quality decals. I will do more testing using decal softer for better adaption results and find out. Thanks for the feedback!
Absolutely, im just too impatient to even prepare the surface on a spare part or similar, i want to start with the real ones immediately 😄 Thanks for the feedback!
Many thanks for this usefull video!! Wich kind of setter solution did you used, please? On my Eduard Spit Mk IXc I used Tamiya decals Adhesive to improve adhesion, but several stencils go away when, after peeling them, I gently wash the kit to remove dust and lint before cover decals with clear gloss cote. many thanks for your suggestions!
Nice tip. Going to try it. May I ask, what is the brand of stand your model is setting on? It looks simple, sturdy and just easy to setup without all the different thumb screws and such.
A quick first test produced negative results, it just peeled off the decal. I did not use setting solution. Second test will be tried after a longer wait for the decals set in. perhaps later today.
Since Eduard introduced these decals I stopped buying Eduard model kits, I have a few from before, great kits, so its a shame they decided to introduce this type of decals. Your method looks interesting and works for you, but again I can’t be bothered with the hassle of building a kit, painting etc and have the decals going wrong after a lot of hard work, ruining the kit. Some will say buy different decals, but buy the kit. Why should I go to the extra cost, when I shouldn’t have to. Until Eduard go back to tried and tested decals, or create decals that work every time re film removal, I will opt out of Eduard as a brand, unless its an older one pre the new decals.
I’m still scared 😮. It didn’t work out too well the last time I tried it with mineral spirits and a cotton bud. I’ll have to give your paintbrush trick a try. I wonder if the trick is not to use a softener on the bigger decals.
I think water is enough you need anything else. Maybe youre right and its more easy to remove it without applying softener first. Only a decal setter to make it stick. I will do more field research😄👌🏼
@@chrisveya7556 yep. I tried this after using Tamiya Mark Fit. Took half the decal paint with it. So that’s a model going into the bin. Next time I’ll go back to using mineral spirits to remove the film.
Horrible decals and the color register is way off. Ive stopped using their stencils as they are crap with bad jagged edges around them. I find it very odd that the decals will change color if you pull the film off. I use aftermarket decals for eduard kit whenever possible.
Personally i like their decals so far, but what bothers me about them is exactly the unwanted weathering appearance that can happen. Not everybody is looking for this look. Thanks for the feedback!
I'm not seeing any advantage to doing this. These decals just aren't as good as the old one, and I don't understand the mental gymnastics people are going through to prove they are. Maybe they will make them better in the future. But even in your tests, you had issues. I've seen a number of "fixes" for these decals, like putting solvents on the decal to loosen the film. But that open up all kinds of other potential problems. I'd love to know why they made this change, it just really makes no sense to me.
I see your point but in my opinion the reason why for this is the results are unmatched if it works out well. I believe with the right treatment 100% can be achieved, but im still working on the last 15%. I'll let you know once I get there... Thanks for the feedback!
idiots funny. This technology is used to print decals for all kinds of mugs, plates, etc. I transferred it to the surface, and after 6 hours the varnish had dried and fell off the decal. But then... "a great miracle!!! new technology!!!" awesome and amazing in one glass 🤡🤣🙃🤩 (soon someone will find out what mental arithmetic is without a calculator and will also go crazy with their genius)
Thanks Rusty. Nice and simple. Looking forward to my next Eduard kit.
Genius! Best tip on these decals yet! :)
The simple things are often the most effective ones😄
Thanks for the feedback!
Thank you for this post. I will try this on a mule. While I could see your method work out on a World War II aircraft with minimal stencils, I’d hate to have to try do this on a 1/48 Phantom.
I don’t know why Eduard changed their decals in the first place. As I understand it, they don’t recommend doing anything to remove this carrier film. It seems to me that they did this as a cost saving measure, and not to improve their products.
Yes, not giving any instructions on how to remove the film is really the downside of it. I wonder whats the reason for it.
Thanks for the feedback!
Many thanks for sharing a brilliantly simple technique.
🙌🏼🙌🏼🙌🏼
Great technique! Thanks for sharing this. I can't wait to try it.
I also cant wait for the next time and to optimise the results a bit more by using a softer solution before removing the covering film. In this video i really went hard on these decals for the sake of testing
Thanks for the feedback!
Best Eduard film tip I've seen yet and well presented 👍☕🐢
Mighty kind, thanks!
I’ve got an Eduard kit in the line-up, not sure if it has the newer decals or not, but thanks to your video, no anxiety. Thanks Chris!
Hey David, heres a good video about how to identify the new ones perfectly: ua-cam.com/video/hsQPYKr7Tc4/v-deo.htmlsi=AVo-ZrtPl7Q8GN6P
Thanks!!
Thank you very much for pointing me towards the video. You are THE man.
That is an excellent technique. I have a few of the newer Eduard kits and will use this technique. However, I'm wondering if the technique can be adjusted just a bit to mitigate removal of the color. Yes, it does give somewhat of a chipped effect, which may be desirable in some cases. However, I am wondering if a softer type of brush bristles may prevent the slight lifting of the color. Also perhaps once the clear film has lifted, tweezers could be used to slowly remove it, vs. the scrubbing motion with the brush. Anyway... it's all speculation at this point. Thanks again.
Yes you are right, its not at a 100% rate, if i didnt had a worn aircraft model anyway, it would have bothered me to loose some of the colour of the decal. Good thoughts with the brush👌🏼
So i will try to refine this technique, to get it up to at least 99.5%😄
Thanks for the feedback!
I still don't understand what Eduard are trying to achieve - they say that the decals aren't specifically designed to have the film lifted and they give no advice for taking the film off, but if you don't, they aren't very nice. Your method is great, the best I've seen, but still not 100% guaranteed so I'm not going to spend days on a kit just to hope that it turns out ok in the end. For me it means factoring in aftermarket decals into the price when making a decision on an Eduard kit.
I will do another test soon and will use decal softer solution this time. Trying to get it up to 100%. I understand your point, this is the reason why im doing this.
Thanks for the feedback!
I think they may be trying to merge standard decals with the effect of dry transfer decals, which give a painted-on look. Think of it as an upside down decal. With a standard decal, the layers are paper>glue>carrier film>ink. With this new generation, the order is paper>glue>ink>carrier film. So, as the glue sets the ink and the decal dries, the carrier film is lifted and all you have left is the ink, which gives the look of painted-on markings.
@@pawpawstew You'd think that if they were trying to produce something that was going to be market leading and give them a sales advantage, they'd actually tell you that and show you how to use them.
@@FinsburyPhilthey aren’t.
Amazing tip Chris! And that Zero looks sooooo nice, congrats! A question regarding the decals... how much time did they rest ON the model before you use your wonderful tool? Thanks and cheers from Chile.
Thank you so much hermano!
They rested and dried on the model between 24 and 48 hours before i started.
Muchas gracias for the feedback!
Will try, it looks very helpful, thanks!
Thanks for the feedback!
I haven’t brought another Eduard kit since they changed the type of decals. Have tried the new type decals and had a really bad experience. Spent all that time on making a kit, only to get ruined at the decal stage. Shame have missed out on some really nice kits that I would have purchased.
I was an Eduard fan boy. Won’t buy another Eduard kit until they change the type of decals. My choice and my loss I suppose.
Altough i do like these decals, what i dont get is why Eduard dont put out some information and instruction about the handling. Not my understanding of good marketing.
Thanks for the feedback!
Excellent video, really helpful 👍🏻
Im glad if it helps, thanks Andy!
Thanx much for the great tutorial!
Im glad if its helpful!
Fantastic!
👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
I'm new to modelling and never heard of Eduard. Are all decals made like this (Revell, AMT, etc.) with a removable film on top? Thank you!
No most of the manufacturers have the traditional decals without a cover film.
I welcome every evolutionary step regarding decals. I think you have to look at it on a case by case basis. It is always a risk to use these decals on uneven surfaces. You have to assess beforehand whether you will be able to repair the affected areas in the event of an accident. It is always to be expected that the decal will splinter over panel lines or other uneven surfaces. So far I have had good experiences on smooth surfaces. I also notice that these decals don't always have the best print quality. In addition, in some cases I think I can see a shadow around the decal where the carrier film used to be - but that could be due to the clear varnish used, etc. that is underneath. I hope that there will be further steps here in the future - perhaps also from other manufacturers - to further develop this matter or find a better solution. If you had a really working concept here, it would be revolutionary.
Yes i guess this is really the weak spot of these decals: panel lines and very uneven surfaces. I will do more testings involving decal solutions for better adapting.
Thanks for the feedback!
Great idea!👍
👌🏼👌🏼
Good to see that it is possible to remove the top film. I still think of it as a lot of extra effort to be imposed on the modeller for limited benefit.
Thats exactly the reason why i tried to minimize the effort. Because the results are great.
Thanks for the feedback!
Eduard kits are excellent.
Some of the best👌🏼
I've peeled Eduard decals with some success. Gloss coat, decal set(micro set), decal softer (micro sol or solvaset) so they really bed down. Decals dry for minimum 24hrs. Then detach Tamiya tape lightly pressed onto decal to remove film. Seemed to work well on my last Eduard Spitfire model with almost no decal removed. However I have had the whole decal peel off with this method on a test model. Seems a lot of work with no guarantee of success.
Why can't Eduard just provide good quality decals that are proven to work such as Cartograph? Especially in their profi packs which are expensive kits. If Airfix and Revell can provide quality decals why can't Eduard?
I think in their view these are quality decals. I will do more testing using decal softer for better adaption results and find out.
Thanks for the feedback!
The key is to practice on a mule before you attack your kit. They are alway extra markings on every eduard kit.
Absolutely, im just too impatient to even prepare the surface on a spare part or similar, i want to start with the real ones immediately 😄
Thanks for the feedback!
Impressive
Thanks!
Second test went okay, I used softener and waited some 16 hrs. Tests continue.
1) use softener or setter 2) wait at least 24 hrs use plenty of water woth soft brush and work lowöy
I use white spirit with a soft brush its much better and never damage the decals under.
I watched many videos for that and... This is the best and simple technique, but after you aply the decal how much time you let it dry?
I had left them on the model to dry for around 24 hrs.
Thanks for the feedback!
Final verdict: I used Micro Set and waited some 20-24 hrs does the trick. Use water, cotton dab and soft brush and some care, it did the work...
Sounds great, thanks for the info!
Many thanks for this usefull video!! Wich kind of setter solution did you used, please? On my Eduard Spit Mk IXc I used Tamiya decals Adhesive to improve adhesion, but several stencils go away when, after peeling them, I gently wash the kit to remove dust and lint before cover decals with clear gloss cote. many thanks for your suggestions!
I did use a home made mix of 1 part Mr. Mark Softer, 1 part Mr. Mark Setter and 2 parts of tap water.
Thanks for the feedback!
@@chrisveya7556 many thanks, mate! I surely will try your mix! Ciao!
🔥🔥🔥
🙌🏼🙌🏼🙌🏼
Nice tip. Going to try it. May I ask, what is the brand of stand your model is setting on? It looks simple, sturdy and just easy to setup without all the different thumb screws and such.
Yes its very usefull and from Bulldog Models. I heard their online store has reopened.
@@chrisveya7556 Thank you. I just ordered one!
Wish most companies would do there deals that way
How long did you wait after applying the decals before taking the film off?
I waited for 24 hours to let them settle
A quick first test produced negative results, it just peeled off the decal. I did not use setting solution. Second test will be tried after a longer wait for the decals set in. perhaps later today.
Yes i initially waited for 24 hours, but it seems 48 hours would be better to be save
Since Eduard introduced these decals I stopped buying Eduard model kits, I have a few from before, great kits, so its a shame they decided to introduce this type of decals. Your method looks interesting and works for you, but again I can’t be bothered with the hassle of building a kit, painting etc and have the decals going wrong after a lot of hard work, ruining the kit. Some will say buy different decals, but buy the kit. Why should I go to the extra cost, when I shouldn’t have to. Until Eduard go back to tried and tested decals, or create decals that work every time re film removal, I will opt out of Eduard as a brand, unless its an older one pre the new decals.
Then,you don't have to peel them.
Understandable, fortunately there are a lot of kits before the new cover film ones.
Thanks!
I’m still scared 😮. It didn’t work out too well the last time I tried it with mineral spirits and a cotton bud. I’ll have to give your paintbrush trick a try. I wonder if the trick is not to use a softener on the bigger decals.
I think water is enough you need anything else. Maybe youre right and its more easy to remove it without applying softener first. Only a decal setter to make it stick. I will do more field research😄👌🏼
@@chrisveya7556 yep. I tried this after using Tamiya Mark Fit. Took half the decal paint with it. So that’s a model going into the bin. Next time I’ll go back to using mineral spirits to remove the film.
I brush on zippo lighter fuel to soften the top layer 24 hrs after applying the decal, don’t rush it !!!!!
Now this is something i havent heard of!
Horrible decals and the color register is way off. Ive stopped using their stencils as they are crap with bad jagged edges around them. I find it very odd that the decals will change color if you pull the film off. I use aftermarket decals for eduard kit whenever possible.
Personally i like their decals so far, but what bothers me about them is exactly the unwanted weathering appearance that can happen. Not everybody is looking for this look.
Thanks for the feedback!
They basically made the most tedious part of model making even more tedious and with my ADHD thats frustrating
Altough i love applying decals and the end results of the Eduard ones with the cover film, you certainly got a point there😄
Thanks for the feedback!
I'm not seeing any advantage to doing this. These decals just aren't as good as the old one, and I don't understand the mental gymnastics people are going through to prove they are. Maybe they will make them better in the future. But even in your tests, you had issues. I've seen a number of "fixes" for these decals, like putting solvents on the decal to loosen the film. But that open up all kinds of other potential problems. I'd love to know why they made this change, it just really makes no sense to me.
I see your point but in my opinion the reason why for this is the results are unmatched if it works out well. I believe with the right treatment 100% can be achieved, but im still working on the last 15%. I'll let you know once I get there...
Thanks for the feedback!
idiots funny.
This technology is used to print decals for all kinds of mugs, plates, etc.
I transferred it to the surface, and after 6 hours the varnish had dried and fell off the decal.
But then... "a great miracle!!! new technology!!!" awesome and amazing in one glass 🤡🤣🙃🤩
(soon someone will find out what mental arithmetic is without a calculator and will also go crazy with their genius)
I dont understand anything you said, but thanks for the feedback!
even in a video about how they aren't terrible, we see them being terrible to deal with on a rough/jagged surface
I believe its because i didnt use decal solution but this theory has to be proven yet.
The easiest way is to toss that Eduard junk and buy a set of quality aftermarket decals.
😄😄😄problem solved