Harsh cutting compounds rarely are pulled off the shelf here unless we are working on hard, stubborn clear. What is YOUR go to for heavy imperfections or stubborn clear coat?
3D ACA500, Optimum Hyper Compound, Meguiar's M110, and Ultimate Compound. The most used on is ACA500 though. I take it to work with me, and I use it in my home shop. I always wanted a super heavy cut compound that played like a polish, and ACA500 does that. The 3D line is everything I ever wanted in polishing liquids.
@@danlc95 I have some ultimate compound and the clear on my truck is stubborn. I used the lake country yellow cutting pad with okay results but I know it could be better for sure, what should I expect next? Is the ultimate compound really all that good for harsh clear and should I expect to wet sand next?
@@RaulioG88 Ultimate Compound is plenty capable. Try it with a microfiber pad, like the Buff and Shine Uro-Fiber, or Rupes Coarse. See where they gets you before switching the compound or sanding. I'd avoid sanding if at all possible.
Last week i had a car with a repainted hood which was a really poor job. Ideally it needed sanding but i was time constrained, didnt have the sander to hand and the customer just wanted some improvement. So i tried the 500 first with the LC purple wool pad and rotary and it hardly made any improvement. Whatever was used to repaint the hood was really hard. I switched to the 510 on the same purple wool pad and immediately saw the difference in cut. I think the 510 really comes into its own on very hard paints. It took two hits per section but i managed to level out the paint to about 90% satisfaction. Finished off with 505 correction glaze on a polishing pad and the Flex super beast to remove the holograms and the customer was over the moon. Ive only used the 500 a few times as i only bought it recently but ive yet to be blown away by it like i am with 510. Yes it has a slightly longer work time than 510 but as far as cutting goes i prefer 510 so far.
The best solution to short cycle polishes that use a non-diminishing abrasives is to mist the pad or panel with water since the abrasives are still viable and stay in the pad.
had a project that required me to use a rotary with wool and aca 500 and followed by the uro fiber 50/50 with 3D One to get it to correct out properly. I mostly use 3D compounds and polishes. When it comes to my own vehicles I finish out with P&S Envy.
With mine I finish out with 3D AAT502, but there have been times I would have needed to really work it to remove the compound marring. It's a very gentle polish.
3D in my opinion still has the best compounds overall, best all in one, best one step and top 2 heavy cutters from my experience. 3Ds green bodyshop compounds are definitely under the radar and I just found out they have a 3D speed version for fresh paint.
@@jacobshank9362 fresh paint needs between 30-90 days to off gas before using some wax, sealant or even ppf. 3d speed has acrylic sealant in the formula, where as the body shop version has just has montan wax. I did ask in an email to 3D and they did clear this up since I hear it from autogeek.
I have to agree. They don't stain trim, they resist dusting, they are extremely economical, and they're free from harsh solvents. In 2020 I bought all of the poplar lines - spent a small fortune too... Only to land on 3D. Runner up was the Jescar line. Today I'm using the 3D and Optimum lines, but Optimum is on the chopping block due to the bottles / sprayers not being able to close properly. I can tighten them all the way and fluid will still leak out. No good for me, because I travel a lot with my stuff. I guess for now I'll just use it for cars that come to the garage - if I want to use something other than the 3D. For me 3D has been the biggest game changer in polishing paint.
Agreed, 3-D is still the best however i still some have of the old Menzerna 400, it's quite successful for deep imperfections however it can be a little bit dusty if u overwork it.
Awesome man. Ive learned so much from u and a few other guys. Mainly u tho im looking forward to so.e tips and tricks on rotory use. I work in a body shop and im the buffer and i test myself and try new things. And i detail on the side aswell
Love ACA500 . Sometimes i use it in combo with 3D One , just to get more cut, and the One for finishing up in one step! or i do spot correction with 500. depends on the job and paint.
Ive just made the same mistake, bought the 510 over the 500. I wanted something to really attack the german hard clears but now im thinking i should of bought the 500.
Brian got a opinion about the Americana MF pads there? I've wanting to try a new MF pad, I was looking at ShineMate T100 MF pad. It looks like LC Purple wool pad but using MF fibers. I've been looking at Americana Pads too and I see you have them here. Thanks also for this. I've been curious between the 510 and 500. Too much miss match info for these 2.
Has your view or approach to 2-steps changed in the last year as it pertains to this product category? I’m considering using something like CarPro Ultracut, but keeping a stiff foam pad and DA in the equation. The use-case is having to restore large metal-plated objects that are really bad…but need to look really good…with not a lot of time. The less product and process changes I can apply, the better I’ll do. I just worry that I will need cutting power and finishing capability in one fell swoop. Feedback appreciated.
Do you prefer or find using "seperate steps or single step prosucts or would ypu just stick using somethjnf the the 3D Hybrid one. ? I have black vehicless one with soft clear and another one with a soft to medium clear. I have swirl marks and some light to medium scratches on both.wha5 3D products would you recommend? Last, I am going to repaint a panel on one of my vehicles and also want to know if these products like the AAT 505 are "Fresh paint" safe. Are all of their products new or "Fresh paint safe as well, or just the AAT 505?
3D ONE with a variety of pads is a great place to start. It usually finishes out beautifully, but ther has been an occasion or two where I needed to finish with 3D AAT502 Finishing Polish. I keep ACA500 for extreme cutting, ONE is my "Swiss Army Knife" that can cut, medium, or fine polish depending on the pad, and the AAT502 for ultra fine finishing - which I very rarely ever need. I also have ACA520, but it's like 3D ONE Jr. It's so close that I don't really need to keep it in stick. I more have it because I just like having it on hand. I do use it. Now that I'm thinking about it, I believe there is a place for ACA520 that I'm not realizing.... All of the green bottle lines and 3D ONE are all fresh paint safe.
I currently use Koch Chemie heavy cut which cuts quickly but does not finish down very well. I also use Papa cut which finishes down very well but could cut some more if the clear is super hard.
I watch your videos because you like to use what I do as well as do things the same as me. I know you review new products I'm curious about because of our similarities and I even learn a few small things from you at times. I too bought a small bottle of 510 and felt the same. I did not like the texture as much, shorter work time, and the less cutting power as the 500 nor did I care for it's finish as much after wiping. 500 has been my #1 for a year now replacing the spot that use to be Sonax cutmax
I am still using #500 as my cutting compound too. Sometimes #520 for finish other times Carpro Reflect. I too found #500 to work great with foam and microfiber cutting pads. As far as the ACA 510 It was ok but I didn't feel it did as good as ACA 500. Same with AAT 501 & 502 I did not feel it performed like ACA 500 & 520
Which combination or a product from 3D would you recommend for the use of soft or very soft clear? I know they recommend this product for harder clear coats. Thank you
I'd start with 3D ONE, and foam finishing pads. On the rare occasion 3D ONE struggles to finish out, 3D AAT502 is the champion for me. Great gloss and haze free finishing on the softest paints I've come across. I've been using is since August of 2020 for ultra fine finishing, but I very rarely need to use it. ACA520 and 3D ONE are usually able to get the job done.
Trying to dial in a 2 step For a body shop setting Do you think ACA 500 & 3D ONE would be a good 2 step? I’m thinking 3D ONE as “step 2”because it’s so easy to work with I guess the question would be how does 3D ONE finish down compared to ACA 520?
You could use 3D 505 correction glaze as your finishing polish. It easily removes the holograms from the cutting stage and leaves a nice glossy Montan wax layer behind that is bodyshop/fresh paint safe. Plus its even easier to wipe off than ONE because the wax content helps the residue to set up.
I regularly follow ACA500 with ONE. I use ONE for everything, unless the paint is thrashed. That is when I use ACA500 as my first step. ACA520 and ONE have a similar finish, with the slight edge going to ACA520. AAT502 has an even finer finish.
Does anyone have any recommendations as to what to use for a 2007 honda civic lx paint? I've done a 2 step on it with griots correcting cream and finishing sealant but there are still many heavy defects left. I would like to get some advice or opinions as to what combo will work best to achieve 85-95% defect removal? Thanks! p.s. I only have griots g9 polisher(9mm throw) and their orange boss foam pads as well as their finishing foam pads.
Get more aggressive with your cutting pad. Griots or Meguiars microfiber cutting pads should be more than enough. You will have a haze left behind....follow up with the orange pad. Always test your combo on a small section
Honda paints are known for being soft, but I am not sure with a car that old? Because of it's age, be careful not removing too much. If you have a paint depth gauge, check it before you proceed.
@@J.____ I’ve thought about getting a more aggressive compound rather than pad but I think I will try to get more aggressive pad like microfiber or wool. Also since I have added a lot of layers of protection of Turtle Wax Flex Wax, I think I may need like 3-6 pads right? Or will just a few do for the job?
@@hartlanddetailer5670 i currently don’t have a meter gauge and I was looking for some but I don’t have the funds rn to get one. I do think the clear coat on it is definitely degraded by at least 50%. When I first did the correction it was very very swirled all over the car. I thought about going over a second round but I remembered that I may take off the clear coat completely so I refrained from doing do.
Harsh cutting compounds rarely are pulled off the shelf here unless we are working on hard, stubborn clear. What is YOUR go to for heavy imperfections or stubborn clear coat?
3D ACA500, Optimum Hyper Compound, Meguiar's M110, and Ultimate Compound.
The most used on is ACA500 though. I take it to work with me, and I use it in my home shop.
I always wanted a super heavy cut compound that played like a polish, and ACA500 does that. The 3D line is everything I ever wanted in polishing liquids.
I use the 3D-ACA500 I found out about it from you Brian.
@@danlc95 I have some ultimate compound and the clear on my truck is stubborn. I used the lake country yellow cutting pad with okay results but I know it could be better for sure, what should I expect next? Is the ultimate compound really all that good for harsh clear and should I expect to wet sand next?
Definately 510 with wool on rotary or 500 with rupes wool on da. Superior finish as on compound
@@RaulioG88 Ultimate Compound is plenty capable.
Try it with a microfiber pad, like the Buff and Shine Uro-Fiber, or Rupes Coarse. See where they gets you before switching the compound or sanding.
I'd avoid sanding if at all possible.
Last week i had a car with a repainted hood which was a really poor job. Ideally it needed sanding but i was time constrained, didnt have the sander to hand and the customer just wanted some improvement. So i tried the 500 first with the LC purple wool pad and rotary and it hardly made any improvement. Whatever was used to repaint the hood was really hard. I switched to the 510 on the same purple wool pad and immediately saw the difference in cut. I think the 510 really comes into its own on very hard paints. It took two hits per section but i managed to level out the paint to about 90% satisfaction. Finished off with 505 correction glaze on a polishing pad and the Flex super beast to remove the holograms and the customer was over the moon. Ive only used the 500 a few times as i only bought it recently but ive yet to be blown away by it like i am with 510. Yes it has a slightly longer work time than 510 but as far as cutting goes i prefer 510 so far.
Thank you for saving my ears. The noise of the polisher coming through my earbuds kill me every time. Great video Brian
3D is one of the best you can get. For me the combo microfiber with aca510 + 520 is the moneyshot.
Greetings from the Netherlands!
It's the best of the best. I have not found anything better especially the 510 and the way it finishes
520 😃
The best solution to short cycle polishes that use a non-diminishing abrasives is to mist the pad or panel with water since the abrasives are still viable and stay in the pad.
3D FTW!! Just used 3D one and uro fiber pad today on a boat.. worked great👍
had a project that required me to use a rotary with wool and aca 500 and followed by the uro fiber 50/50 with 3D One to get it to correct out properly. I mostly use 3D compounds and polishes. When it comes to my own vehicles I finish out with P&S Envy.
With mine I finish out with 3D AAT502, but there have been times I would have needed to really work it to remove the compound marring. It's a very gentle polish.
I've only used ACA 500 once. It worked good.
3D in my opinion still has the best compounds overall, best all in one, best one step and top 2 heavy cutters from my experience. 3Ds green bodyshop compounds are definitely under the radar and I just found out they have a 3D speed version for fresh paint.
Isn't wax not entirely good on fresh paint? 3D HD Speed has some wax in it
@@jacobshank9362 fresh paint needs between 30-90 days to off gas before using some wax, sealant or even ppf. 3d speed has acrylic sealant in the formula, where as the body shop version has just has montan wax. I did ask in an email to 3D and they did clear this up since I hear it from autogeek.
I have to agree.
They don't stain trim, they resist dusting, they are extremely economical, and they're free from harsh solvents.
In 2020 I bought all of the poplar lines - spent a small fortune too... Only to land on 3D. Runner up was the Jescar line.
Today I'm using the 3D and Optimum lines, but Optimum is on the chopping block due to the bottles / sprayers not being able to close properly. I can tighten them all the way and fluid will still leak out. No good for me, because I travel a lot with my stuff. I guess for now I'll just use it for cars that come to the garage - if I want to use something other than the 3D.
For me 3D has been the biggest game changer in polishing paint.
Agreed, 3-D is still the best however i still some have of the old Menzerna 400, it's quite successful for deep imperfections however it can be a little bit dusty if u overwork it.
I still have a couple bottles of the old FG400 too!
My favorite from Menzerna was the PF2500.
Awesome man. Ive learned so much from u and a few other guys. Mainly u tho im looking forward to so.e tips and tricks on rotory use. I work in a body shop and im the buffer and i test myself and try new things. And i detail on the side aswell
Love ACA500 . Sometimes i use it in combo with 3D One , just to get more cut, and the One for finishing up in one step! or i do spot correction with 500. depends on the job and paint.
3D ACA 500, I really like, as well as my Sonax compounds perfect finish, cut max, others, good video Brian
We switched to the 510 the beginning of the year in our body shop teamed with their yellow pad it makes quick work for us
What were you using before?
@@orthodox1717 the 500 from 3D. Which still works great
3D has since changed the label on ACA 500 saying it works with Wool and Microfiber, no more confusion!
Wish I would have seen this before choosing the 510 over the 500 because I prefer to use foam pads with my flex 3401 for less grabbing.
Ive just made the same mistake, bought the 510 over the 500. I wanted something to really attack the german hard clears but now im thinking i should of bought the 500.
The 510 is designed for foam whereas the 500 is more for wool
Another awesome video and product review/comparison good friend
Brian got a opinion about the Americana MF pads there?
I've wanting to try a new MF pad, I was looking at ShineMate T100 MF pad. It looks like LC Purple wool pad but using MF fibers. I've been looking at Americana Pads too and I see you have them here.
Thanks also for this. I've been curious between the 510 and 500. Too much miss match info for these 2.
Has your view or approach to 2-steps changed in the last year as it pertains to this product category? I’m considering using something like CarPro Ultracut, but keeping a stiff foam pad and DA in the equation.
The use-case is having to restore large metal-plated objects that are really bad…but need to look really good…with not a lot of time. The less product and process changes I can apply, the better I’ll do. I just worry that I will need cutting power and finishing capability in one fell swoop. Feedback appreciated.
Gonna be a good one as always.
Do you prefer or find using "seperate steps or single step prosucts or would ypu just stick using somethjnf the the 3D Hybrid one. ? I have black vehicless one with soft clear and another one with a soft to medium clear. I have swirl marks and some light to medium scratches on both.wha5 3D products would you recommend?
Last, I am going to repaint a panel on one of my vehicles and also want to know if these products like the AAT 505 are "Fresh paint" safe.
Are all of their products new or "Fresh paint safe as well, or just the AAT 505?
3D ONE with a variety of pads is a great place to start.
It usually finishes out beautifully, but ther has been an occasion or two where I needed to finish with 3D AAT502 Finishing Polish.
I keep ACA500 for extreme cutting, ONE is my "Swiss Army Knife" that can cut, medium, or fine polish depending on the pad, and the AAT502 for ultra fine finishing - which I very rarely ever need.
I also have ACA520, but it's like 3D ONE Jr. It's so close that I don't really need to keep it in stick. I more have it because I just like having it on hand. I do use it. Now that I'm thinking about it, I believe there is a place for ACA520 that I'm not realizing....
All of the green bottle lines and 3D ONE are all fresh paint safe.
would love to see u using sonax ultimate cut with a rotary and get your opinion on how it pairs with that wool pad on a rotary machine
I currently use Koch Chemie heavy cut which cuts quickly but does not finish down very well. I also use Papa cut which finishes down very well but could cut some more if the clear is super hard.
Neil, what I like about the 3D products, they are made in the USA and in house. What are your thoughts? Brian any comments?
No way man
I’ve been able to cut and finish with H9 using rotary and wool pad with no holograms
I see you have Americana global pads …. What do you think about Americana global ultimate compound compared to the ACA 509?
What do you recommend to remove Deck Stain overspray off a Boat Gel Coat?
Great video
I watch your videos because you like to use what I do as well as do things the same as me. I know you review new products I'm curious about because of our similarities and I even learn a few small things from you at times. I too bought a small bottle of 510 and felt the same. I did not like the texture as much, shorter work time, and the less cutting power as the 500 nor did I care for it's finish as much after wiping. 500 has been my #1 for a year now replacing the spot that use to be Sonax cutmax
Hey Brian is it true that microfiber should not be used on a rotary?
I am still using #500 as my cutting compound too. Sometimes #520 for finish other times Carpro Reflect. I too found #500 to work great with foam and microfiber cutting pads. As far as the ACA 510 It was ok but I didn't feel it did as good as ACA 500. Same with AAT 501 & 502 I did not feel it performed like ACA 500 & 520
I didn't care for the AAT501, but the AAT502 is the cure for haze prone paints.
Very impressive. Surprised u didn't have both blue and purple hybrid pad.
Which combination or a product from 3D would you recommend for the use of soft or very soft clear? I know they recommend this product for harder clear coats.
Thank you
I'd start with 3D ONE, and foam finishing pads.
On the rare occasion 3D ONE struggles to finish out, 3D AAT502 is the champion for me. Great gloss and haze free finishing on the softest paints I've come across. I've been using is since August of 2020 for ultra fine finishing, but I very rarely need to use it. ACA520 and 3D ONE are usually able to get the job done.
Trying to dial in a 2 step For a body shop setting
Do you think ACA 500 & 3D ONE would be a good 2 step?
I’m thinking 3D ONE as “step 2”because it’s so easy to work with
I guess the question would be how does 3D ONE finish down compared to ACA 520?
You could use 3D 505 correction glaze as your finishing polish. It easily removes the holograms from the cutting stage and leaves a nice glossy Montan wax layer behind that is bodyshop/fresh paint safe. Plus its even easier to wipe off than ONE because the wax content helps the residue to set up.
I regularly follow ACA500 with ONE. I use ONE for everything, unless the paint is thrashed. That is when I use ACA500 as my first step.
ACA520 and ONE have a similar finish, with the slight edge going to ACA520. AAT502 has an even finer finish.
what spray are you using to clean up?
What would recommend for a Mercedes Clear coat?
Can you heavy cut show down video of maybe 3-5 different brands?
Premature correction? We've all been there!
Quite surprised with the gloss of the 50/50 Urofibre.
Brian what about 500 vs KC H9?
brian what brand of cordless da are you using
Shinemate
500 mix with 3d one😊👍
ACA 500 vs Carpro Ultracut?
500 is the best thing!
You prefer ac500 at h9 kochemie
Does anyone have any recommendations as to what to use for a 2007 honda civic lx paint? I've done a 2 step on it with griots correcting cream and finishing sealant but there are still many heavy defects left. I would like to get some advice or opinions as to what combo will work best to achieve 85-95% defect removal? Thanks!
p.s. I only have griots g9 polisher(9mm throw) and their orange boss foam pads as well as their finishing foam pads.
Get more aggressive with your cutting pad. Griots or Meguiars microfiber cutting pads should be more than enough. You will have a haze left behind....follow up with the orange pad. Always test your combo on a small section
Honda paints are known for being soft, but I am not sure with a car that old? Because of it's age, be careful not removing too much. If you have a paint depth gauge, check it before you proceed.
Try the correcting cream with a microfiber cutting pad.
You could also try lowering your arm speed as you move the polisher across the paint.
@@J.____ I’ve thought about getting a more aggressive compound rather than pad but I think I will try to get more aggressive pad like microfiber or wool. Also since I have added a lot of layers of protection of Turtle Wax Flex Wax, I think I may need like 3-6 pads right? Or will just a few do for the job?
@@hartlanddetailer5670 i currently don’t have a meter gauge and I was looking for some but I don’t have the funds rn to get one. I do think the clear coat on it is definitely degraded by at least 50%. When I first did the correction it was very very swirled all over the car. I thought about going over a second round but I remembered that I may take off the clear coat completely so I refrained from doing do.
Have you had a chance to work with C.S.I
I believe he's mentioned that it was too dusty.
Maybe next time we look at both under microscope. Let's strive 4 at least 10k more subscribers b4 new year. B well good friend
Made a opps.ur video cut off twice after 3rd now I see bl hybrid pad.lol
Xtreme Solutions Knock Out
👍🏻
Jescar Heavy cut
2nd